CRUISE OF THE NEPTUNE
[Illustration: THE CHIEF OF THE AIVILLINGMIUT.]
REPORT
ON THE
DOMINION GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION
TO
HUDSON BAY AND THE ARCTIC ISLANDS
ON BOARD THE
D . G . S . N E P T U N E
1903 - 1904
BY
A. P. LOW, B.Sc., F.R.G.S.
_Officer in charge._
OTTAWA
GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU
1906
OTTAWA, September 8, 1905.
Hon. RAYMOND PRÉFONTAINE, K.C.,
Minister of Marine and Fisheries.
SIR,—I have the honour to submit herewith my report on the expedition
to Hudson Bay and northward thereof, in the steamship _Neptune_; to
which, on your kind recommendation, I was appointed officer in charge by
a commission authorized under an order in council of August 13, 1903.
Permit me to here acknowledge the kindly and valuable assistance
afforded me by Colonel F. Gourdeau, Deputy Minister of the Department of
Marine and Fisheries, by Commander G. O. V. Spain, and by all the
officers of the department at Ottawa and Halifax, with whom it was my
duty and privilege to work.
The greater part of the credit for the complete and successful
accomplishment of all the instructions for the voyage is due to Captain
S. W. Bartlett, the officers and the crew of the _Neptune_. Their prompt
and cheerful attention to orders and their willing co-operation in all
matters relating to the expedition deserve the highest praise.
I have great pleasure in calling attention to the valuable work of the
scientific staff of the expedition. Dr. L. E. Borden, by his skill and
attention, kept everybody in a good general state of health, and in
addition rendered great assistance in the collection of specimens and
data relating to ethnology, botany and zoology. Mr. Andrew Halkett,
Naturalist of the Department of Marine and Fisheries, was indefatigable
in the work of collecting specimens in all branches of natural history.
Mr. C. F. King, who was attached from the staff of the Geological
Survey, took charge in an able manner of the topographical work, and was
willingly assisted by Messrs. Caldwell and Ross and by the officers of
the ship.
In the preparation of this report, I have received much valuable
assistance from Dr. Robert Bell, Acting Director of the Geological
Survey, who has not only helped personally, but who also kindly allowed
the very necessary assistance of the following members of the staff of
that department: Mr. J. M. Macoun, who named and described the plants in
the collections brought home; Mr. L. Lambe and Dr. H. M. Ami, who
determined and named the collections of fossils, and Mr. F. Nicolas, who
kindly edited the report and prepared the index to it. The map which
accompanies the report was prepared under the direction of Mr. C. O.
Senécal by Messrs. C. F. King and P. Frereault.
My thanks are due to Mr. W. McMahon, Superintendent of Printing, for his
kindly advice and assistance in the publication of this report, and it
is entirely due to him that the volume presents its creditable
appearance.
I have the honour to be, sir,
Your humble servant,
A. P. LOW.
_MINTO._
CANADA.
EDWARD THE SEVENTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, and of the British Dominions
beyond the Seas, King, Defender of the Faith, Emperor of India,
etc.
To ALBERT PETER LOW, of the City of Ottawa, in the Province of
Ontario, in our Dominion of Canada, Esquire,—
GREETING:
E. L. NEWCOMBE,
Deputy of the Minister of Justice,
Canada.
Know you that reposing trust and confidence in your loyalty, integrity
and ability, We have constituted and appointed, and We do hereby
constitute and appoint you the said =Albert Peter Low= to be
officer in charge of the expedition to Hudson Bay and northward thereof
in the Steamship _Neptune_,—
To have, hold, exercise and enjoy the said office of officer in charge
of the expedition to Hudson Bay and northward thereof in the Steamship
_Neptune_ unto you the said =Albert Peter Low=, with all and
every the powers, rights, authority, privileges, profits, emoluments and
advantages unto the said office of right and by law appertaining during
pleasure.
IN TESTIMONY WHEREOF, We have caused these Our Letters to be
made Patent, and the Great Seal of Canada to be hereunto
affixed. WITNESS, Our Right Trusty and Well-beloved Cousin and
Councillor the Right Honourable Sir GILBERT JOHN ELLIOT, Earl of
Minto and Viscount Melgund of Melgund, County of Forfar, in the
Peerage of the United Kingdom, Baron Minto of Minto, County of
Roxburgh, in the Peerage of Great Britain, Baronet of Nova
Scotia, Knight Grand Cross of Our Most Distinguished Order of
St. Michael and Saint George, etc., etc., Governor General of
Canada.
At Our Government House, in Our City of Ottawa, this
THIRTEENTH day of AUGUST, in the year of Our Lord one
thousand nine hundred and three, and in the third year
of Our Reign.
By Command,
P. PELLETIER,
_Acting Under Secretary of State_.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO THE BAY.
Introductory—Preparations—The _Neptune_—The Crew—Coast of
Labrador—Port Burwell—Cumberland Gulf—Hudson Strait—Walrus
Hunting—Hudson Bay—West Coast of Hudson Bay—Chesterfield
Inlet—Arrival at Fullerton 1
CHAPTER II.
WINTER QUARTERS AT FULLERTON.
Fullerton Harbour—Preparations for Winter—Natives—Amusement and
Work—Spring Explorations—Mr. Caldwell’s Trip to Wager Inlet—Surveys
about Fullerton—Exploration of Coast to Chesterfield Inlet—Trip in
Whaleboats to Southampton Island 25
CHAPTER III.
SUMMER CRUISE OF THE _NEPTUNE_.
Fisher Strait—Ice in Hudson Strait—Supply Ship at Port Burwell—Voyage
North—North Greenland Coast—Parker Snow Bay—Smith Sound—Crossing to
Cape Sabine—Peary’s Headquarters—_Neptune_ on the Rocks—Taking
Possession of Ellesmere Island—East Coast of Ellesmere—Lancaster
Sound—Franklin’s Headquarters at Beechey Island—Record of the
_Gjoa_—Port Leopold—Ponds Inlet—Natives—Arctic Salmon—Baffin
Bay—Cumberland Gulf—Wakeham Bay—Sugluk Bay—Salisbury Island—Voyage
Home 35
CHAPTER IV.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY.
Frobisher—Davis—Weymouth—Knight—Hudson—Button—Baffin—Munck—Fox and
James—Hudson’s Bay Company—Knight—Middleton and Dobbs—Hearne—Ross
and Parry—Parry and Liddon—Parry and Lyon—Franklin—Ross—Back—Dease
and Simpson—Rae—Franklin and Crozier—The Franklin
Search—Kane—Hayes—Hall—Nares—Markham—Greely—Nansen—Peary—Sverdrup 71
CHAPTER V.
ARCTIC ISLANDS.
Divisions—Physical Features dependant upon Geology—Islands of Hudson
Bay—Baffin and Bylot Islands—Islands south of Lancaster
Sound—Ellesmere—North Devon—The Parry Islands—The Sverdrup Islands 112
CHAPTER VI.
ESKIMOS.
The Central Eskimos—Annual Routine—Winter Months—Snowhouses—Cooking
Utensils—Dog Sled—Dogs—Seal Hunting—Seal Spear—Foxes—Trade—Spring
Occupations—Summer—Summer Tent—Kyak—Umiak—Harpoon—Caribou Hunting 131
CHAPTER VII.
ESKIMOS—_Continued_.
Manners and Customs—Government—Marriage and
Divorce—Murder—Death—Burial—Superstitions and Beliefs—The Goddess
Nuliavok—Origin of Races—Future State—Taboos—The
Angekok—Amusements—Garments—Adornments—Moral Characteristics 162
CHAPTER VIII.
GEOLOGY.
Sources of Information—Succession of the Rocks—Earth
Movements—Archæan Backbone—Silurian Sea—Devonian and Carboniferous
Uplift—Mesozoic and Miocene Tertiary—The Glacial Period—Details of
Geology—Archæan—Hudson Bay, Baffin Island, Islands of Group III.,
Ellesmere and North Devon Islands 183
CHAPTER IX.
GEOLOGY—_Continued_.
Silurian—West Coast of Hudson Bay, Baffin Island, Islands of Group
III., Northeast Part of Ellesmere, Jones Sound, North Devon Island,
Devonian. Carboniferous—Parry Island, Coal, Ellesmere Island.
Mesozoic—Parry and Sverdrup Islands. Tertiary—Banks Island,
Ellesmere Island, Coal, Baffin Island. Glacial—Distribution of
Boulders—Ice Movements—Hudson Strait, West Coast of Hudson Bay,
Labrador, Greatest Intensity of Ice-cap—Marine Terraces. Economic
Minerals Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Mica, Graphite, Molybdenite,
Lignite and Coal 210
CHAPTER X.
WHALING.
History—The Whaling Fleet—Whaling in Davis Strait and Baffin
Bay—Whaling in Hudson Bay—The Right Whale—Whalebone—Scottish
Whalers—Ships and Methods—American Whalers—Ships, Crews and
Methods—Whaleboats—Spring Whaling—Whaling Stations—Future of the
Industry—Other Whales—Porpoises—The Seals—Walrus 248
CHAPTER XI.
NAVIGATION OF HUDSON BAY.
Need of Hudson Bay Route—Historical—Navigation of Hudson
Strait—Navigation in Hudson Bay—Ports—Currents—Ice from Davis
Strait—Ice in Hudson Bay—Period of Navigation—Sailing
Directions—Trade—Natural Resources—Advantages of Hudson Bay
Route—Storage of Grain—Railway 283
APPENDIX I.
Meteorological Observations taken on the _Neptune_ 300
APPENDIX II.
List of Birds and Eggs collected on the Voyage 314
APPENDIX III.
List of Plants collected in 1904 320
APPENDIX IV.
Notes on the Fossils collected on the Voyage 322
APPENDIX V.
List of the principal Works and Papers consulted in the Preparation
of the Report 337
APPENDIX VI.
Notes on the Physical Condition of the Eskimos 343
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
The Chief of the Aivillingmiut _Frontispiece_
A Davis Strait Iceberg 1
_Neptune_ and _Era_, Fullerton harbour 4
Crew of the _Neptune_ in winter costume 6
Head of Nachvak bay, Labrador 8
Port Burwell at eastern entrance to Hudson strait 10
Blacklead island, Cumberland gulf 12
Kekerten harbour, Cumberland gulf 14
Walrus in Smith Sound 16
Fullerton harbour 18
Wreck camp, Chesterfield inlet 22
_Neptune_ in winter quarters 24
Southampton island 25
Snowhouses on ice near _Neptune_ 28
Hauling the winter water supply 30
Mr. Caldwell starting North 32
American Whaleboats in Roes Welcome 34
A Greenland Iceberg 35
Midnight in Smith sound 36
Ice off Cape Wolstenholme 40
Parker Snow bay, North Greenland 42
A Glacier of Bylot island 44
Cape Herschel, Ellesmere island 46
Franklin Monument at Beechey island 52
Provisions left for the _Gjoa_ at Port Leopold 54
Cliffs of Bylot island 58
Eskimo Encampment at Ponds inlet 60
Women’s Boat at Wakeham bay 64
South coast of North Devon island 71
At Beechey island 96
Frenchman Cove, Cyrus Field bay 112
Head of Cyrus Field bay, Baffin island 120
Shore of Cumberland gulf from Blacklead island 122
Kenipitu from Chesterfield inlet 130
Lower Encampment, Chesterfield inlet 131
Eskimos at Blacklead, Cumberland gulf 136
Aivillik Women at Fullerton 140
Snowhouses at Fullerton 142
Interior of Snowhouse at Fullerton 144
Loaded Sleds from Chesterfield inlet 146
A Small Team and a Heavy Load 148
Interior of Snowhouse at Fullerton 150
Eskimo kyak off Cape Haven 154
Summer Tents at Wakeham bay 158
At Ponds inlet 162
Aivillik Woman in gala dress 168
Nechillik Woman 170
Kenipitu Belles at Fullerton 176
Kenipitu Woman in winter dress 178
Upper Encampment, Chesterfield inlet 183
Contorted Gneiss and Granite at Fullerton 196
Cape Haven harbour 202
Scottish Whalers in Ponds inlet 210
Limestone Cliffs of North Devon island 220
Scottish Whaler _Eclipse_ 248
Crew of the American Whaler _Era_ 250
Bundles of whalebone on the _Era_ 260
Preparing for Spring Whaling 264
Whaleboats on the ice, in Roes Welcome 268
Scottish whaling station at Blacklead island 270
The Launch 283
Rafted Ice in Roes Welcome, June, 1904 290
Ice in Cumberland gulf, September, 1904 292
SHIP’S COMPANY.
SCIENTIFIC STAFF.
A. P. Low, Commander and Geologist.
L. E. Borden, M.D., Surgeon and Botanist.
G. B. Faribault, M.D., Assistant-Surgeon.
A. Halkett, Naturalist.
C. F. King, Topographer and Meteorologist.
G. F. Caldwell, Photographer.
OFFICERS AND CREW.
S. W. Bartlett, Master. W. Babstock, Seaman.
J. Hearn, First Mate. F. Kearny, ”
M. Bartlett, Second Mate. W. Crossman, First Engineer.
L. Guay, Third Mate. J. Crossman, Second Engineer.
W. Aldred, Cook. S. Bruchett, Third Engineer.
J. Harding, Second Cook. J. Killey, Fireman.
H. Borgle, Steward. A. Romaine, ”
D. Tierney, Second Steward. M. Baldwin, ”
M. Ross, Purser. F. Froude, ”
M. Ryan, Carpenter. G. Willis, ”
C. King, Boatswain. J. Rousseau, Boy.
J. Clark, Seaman. L. Deschesneau, ”
J. Murphy, ” E. Bourque, ”
C. Pomeroy, ” J. Gouin, ”
F. Wells, ” F. O’Connell, ”
NORTH-WEST MOUNTED POLICE.
Major J. D. Moodie, Acting Commissioner.
Staff Sergeant Dee.
Constable Tremaine.
” Jarvis.
” Connelly.
” Donaldson.
H. Ford, who had served as Eskimo interpreter on the _Diana_ in 1896,
was again engaged in that capacity, at Port Burwell, on the way north.
GEOLOGICAL MAP of the NORTHEASTERN PART of the DOMINION OF CANADA
To illustrate the Report on the Cruise of the D.G.S. Neptune ——to——
HUDSON BAY and the ARCTIC ISLANDS ——by—— A.P. LOW B.Sc. Officer in
Command.
1905.
Scale: 50 statute miles to 1 inch = 1/3.168.000
10 5 0 10 50 100 150 200
_Projected on Oblique Secant Cylinder_
_Mean length of 1 degree of latitude = 69.337 stat.m._
C.-O. Senécal, B.A.Sc., _Geographer & Chief Draughtsman_
[Illustration: A DAVIS STRAIT ICEBERG.]
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO THE BAY
The present report contains a narrative of the voyage of the D.G.S.
_Neptune_, during the seasons 1903-04, to the northern parts of Hudson
bay, and to the northeastern Arctic islands. Following this, under their
respective headings, are a short historical account of earlier
explorations and discoveries in northeastern Arctic America; a
geographical sketch, together with summaries of what is at present known
of the inhabitants and geology of the unorganized northeastern
territories of the Dominion; short descriptions of the important whaling
and sealing industries; and opinions as to the possible navigation of
Hudson strait and Hudson bay.
The appendices contain the meteorological observations taken on the
voyage, interesting notes on the thickness and growth of the ice; also
lists of the birds, plants and fossils collected in these northern
regions. All the collections, except that of the marine invertebrates,
have been fully determined. The amount of new material in the latter
required greater time for study than could be given before the
publication of this report, and the results will be included in a future
publication.
This report is based largely upon the knowledge obtained, during the
voyage, by the scientific staff of the expedition; this has been freely
supplemented by information taken from the reports of previous northern
explorations. For the convenience of the reader, constant references are
not made to these authorities in the text, a list of them being given in
an appendix.
Special mention is here made of the indebtedness of the author to the
valuable information contained in the works of Richardson, McClintock,
Dawson, Bell and Sverdrup.
The accompanying map has been compiled by Mr. C. Frank King. It contains
all the corrections to coastline made from his surveys. The ship’s track
marked on the map will be found convenient in following the text of the
narrative.
All bearings mentioned in the text refer to the true North, on account
of the confusion arising from the great change in the variation of the
compass at different localities included in the area covered by the
report. For example, at Chesterfield inlet the compass points true
North; while at Beechey island, in Lancaster sound, the variation
amounts to 160 degrees, so that the north end of the needle points
south-southwest.
The illustrations in the text of the report are from photographs taken
by the author.
Acknowledgment is made of the kindness of Admiral Sir Arch. L. Douglas
for his willing assistance in fitting out the _Neptune_ at Halifax,
where suitable Welsh coal and a fine steam launch, on his
recommendation, were supplied by the Admiralty.
To Captain George Comer, of the American whaler _Era_, special thanks
are due for his uniform kindness and courtesy during our long winter
together, and for the valuable assistance rendered, by advice,
information and services, to the expedition and to myself, personally.
The writer gratefully acknowledges a large amount of interesting details
relating to the natives, whaling industry, geography and natural history
obtained from the Rev. Mr. Peck, and from the Scottish whaling Captains
Milne, Adams, Guy and Murray.
PRELIMINARIES TO AND PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.
The Dominion government, in the spring of 1903, decided to send a
cruiser to patrol the waters of Hudson bay and those adjacent to the
eastern Arctic islands; also to aid in the establishment, on the
adjoining shores, of permanent stations for the collection of customs,
the administration of justice and the enforcement of the law as in other
parts of the Dominion.
To perform these last duties, Major J. D. Moodie, of the Northwest
Mounted Police, was appointed Acting Commissioner of the unorganized
Northeastern Territories. Under his command were placed a
non-commissioned officer and four constables of the Northwest Mounted
Police, as a nucleus of the force that in the future would reside at
these stations.
The _Neptune_, the largest and most powerful ship of the Newfoundland
sealing fleet, was chartered as the most suitable vessel for the cruiser
work. The _Neptune_ is a stout wooden ship, built entirely of British
oak, sheathed with ‘iron-bark’ and greenheart. Although built in 1873,
she is quite sound throughout, and of amazing strength. Her sides are
formed of an outer sheathing of four inches of greenheart, on top of
four inches of oak, covering heavy oak timbers, with an inside lining of
three inches; the space between the inner and outer skins and the
timbers is solidly filled with rock-salt, so that the sides of the ship
are practically eighteen inches thick in all parts where a contact with
the ice is expected. The bow is further reinforced by a heavy sheathing
of iron plates, and inside it is backed with deadwood, giving it a
thickness of eight feet. The _Neptune_ is of 465 tons net register, and
has engines of 110 nominal horse-power. This means that the ship will
carry about 800 tons of coal and cargo, and that her engines will
develop about 550 indicated horse-power; sufficient to drive the loaded
ship at the rate of eight knots an hour. The engines, unlike most of the
whaling and sealing ships, are placed amidships, while the vessel is
rigged as a three-masted schooner, with low masts and little sail power.
Early in June, 1903, I had the honour to be appointed, by the Honourable
Mr. Préfontaine, the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, to the command of
the expedition to Hudson bay and northwards, on board the _Neptune_. I
received instructions to proceed immediately to Halifax, to make
necessary alterations to the ship, and to purchase all the provisions
and outfit required for a two-years’ voyage in the Arctics.
The ship—which only had accommodation for a small crew—was in the same
state in which she had returned from the spring sealing voyage. After a
thorough cleaning, carpenters and machinists were put aboard, and the
work of alteration rushed day and night. A bridge-deck, covering the
boiler and engine, was erected, with a small chart-house upon it.
Alterations were made to the after cabin, and a new saloon and
staterooms, for the use of the scientific staff, were made
between-decks, forward of the main hatch. The remainder of the
between-decks forward was converted into storerooms and sleeping
quarters for the petty officers and the Mounted Police detachment. The
upper forecastle was fitted up for the crew and firemen. All the
sleeping quarters were arranged so that a small air space separated the
sides of the ship from the berths, and all ironwork was covered with
wood. The value of these preparations was appreciated during the ensuing
winter, when no frozen moisture was found in any part of the ship so
treated, while elsewhere the bare sides had a thick coating of frost.
[Illustration: ‘NEPTUNE’ AND ‘ERA,’ FULLERTON HARBOUR.]
All these additions and alterations were made in a month’s time, during
which the stores and provisions were purchased and delivered on board,
together with materials for the stations on shore.
The preparations being completed, the _Neptune_ hauled out from the dock
and anchored in the harbour on the evening of the 22nd of August.
THE CRUISE TO WINTER QUARTERS IN HUDSON BAY.
All hands were busy during the morning of the 23rd of August, in
securing the heavy deck-load, consisting of lumber for the stations,
which was piled high on the afterdeck, and on both sides of the bridge.
Oil barrels and tins completely covered the quarterdeck, while potatoes
and other vegetables were stowed in all corners, even the rigging having
its load of fresh meat.
At noon the anchor was lifted, and we steamed out of the harbour of
Halifax, not to return until the middle of October of the following
year. A favouring breeze helped the ship along, and in the evening we
were well on our way eastward along the southern coast of Nova Scotia.
The following evening the eastern end of Cape Breton was passed, and we
stood northward to cross Cabot strait to Newfoundland. A strong breeze
from the northwest sprang up in the night, when, owing to our heavy
deck-load, the ship had to take shelter under St. Paul island, where we
remained until the morning of the 26th. Fine weather favoured the
passage across the gulf, and through the Strait of Belle Isle. Our first
stop on the Labrador coast was made at Dominoe, where it was expected
that a supply of codfish would be obtained. Unfortunately the season was
very backward, and no dry fish had yet been made on the coast; a few
pairs of sealskin boots were, however, obtained there. Continuing, with
fine weather, northward along this grandly picturesque coast, Nachvak
bay was reached on the 31st.
Our interpreter was supposed to reside here, but on reaching the small
Hudson’s Bay post, it was found that he was at Port Burwell, at the
mouth of Hudson strait. More sealskin boots and a couple of barrels of
trout were purchased from the agent; then, as our tanks were low, we
steamed some ten miles to the head of the bay, to a small river of
excellent water. The scenery about the bay is very grand; cliffs of
3,000 feet present their rugged barren faces on both sides, rising
directly from the water and terminating skywards in lofty mountains with
sharp peaks. Large patches of snow fill the upper valleys, where they
accentuate the rocky desolation of the peaks.
Another clear, calm day brought us to Port Burwell, a few miles inside
Cape Chidley, the northern point of the Atlantic coast, where the
division line is drawn between the territory to the eastward, under the
jurisdiction of Newfoundland, and that of the Dominion to the westward.
Between Nachvak and the cape, the mountains of the coast reach their
highest elevations, some of the peaks rising to upwards of 6,000 feet.
The outline is extremely rough, the land rises abruptly from the coast
and the scenery is very grand. As Cape Chidley is approached, the
general elevation becomes lower; the land finally sinks into the sea
with the Button islands, which form a group extending some miles beyond
the cape. The heavy tides of Ungava bay exhaust themselves in the
passages between the islands, and, in doing so, cause very dangerous
currents. Gray strait, lying between the cape and the inner islands,
would form an excellent ship canal, if it were not for these strong
currents, which cause a dangerous sea when the tide is running against
the wind, especially when the wind is eastward and the Atlantic swell
heaves into the strait.
[Illustration: CREW OF THE ‘NEPTUNE’ IN WINTER COSTUME.]
Port Burwell is an excellent harbour, sheltered from all but the
southwest winds, and, even with these, distant capes break the force of
the wind and sea. The harbour lies on the western side of Gray strait,
and about fifteen miles from Cape Chidley. It was originally discovered
by Commander Gordon, who erected one of the Observation Stations there
in 1885. The surrounding country, although low in comparison with that
to the southward, is rugged, with steep rocky cliffs, that rise from 100
to 500 feet above the water of the harbour. There is little level ground
in the neighbourhood, and the trading post established there is situated
on a small inside harbour, which cannot be seen from the anchorage.
Trade is carried on with some dozen families of Eskimos living on the
coast, and this is supplemented by the seals caught by the agent.
This is probably the most convenient and safest place for the
establishment of a customs station for the regulation of the shipping
trade, entering or leaving Hudson strait, and a small expenditure for
lights would make it a safe port of entry at all times. The south side
of the mouth of Hudson strait, during the season of ice, is much less
embarrassed than the northern side; as a rule, Port Burwell is free of
ice early and late in the season.
Some little trouble occurred in securing the services of Ford as
interpreter, he being under employment at the station; but the matter
was finally satisfactorily arranged with the agent.
PORT BURWELL TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
On the following day the voyage was continued northward from Port
Burwell. A fog came on shortly after we left, and continued for three
days, during which land was only sighted twice. When the fog partly
lifted, on the evening of the 4th, we found ourselves close to the shore
of Cumberland gulf, and about twenty miles east of Blacklead island. The
ship anchored in one of the many bays of the high rugged islands that
fringe the coast.
A landing was made near the anchorage, and a few hours spent in climbing
over the steep, high hills of gneiss and granite, which rise from 500 to
1,000 feet above the sea, while the summits of the hills on the mainland
behind often attain an elevation of 2,000 feet. Almost continuous inland
navigation is afforded by the channels, behind the islands, lying along
the entire southern coast of the gulf. The hills are very rugged, and
show signs of glaciation, though much less marked than those on the
hills of the Labrador coast. The higher valleys are filled with snow,
but there are no real glaciers.
The weather cleared about noon next day, and towards evening the mission
and whaling stations at Blacklead island were reached. A series of
photographs of the place and of its natives was taken while Major Moodie
was explaining the intentions of the Government to the missionaries and
to the agent of the whaling establishment.
The settlement consists of a dozen small, one-storied, wooden buildings,
comprising the house and storehouses of the whaling station, the church,
hospital, dwelling house and outbuildings of the missionaries. All are
located at the southeast end of the island, a few feet above tide water.
The surface is rock, or very moist boulder clay, without drainage, and
the refuse from the native encampment makes the surroundings very
filthy. The water supply is obtained from small ponds, in hollows of the
rocks on the hill behind the houses. As the neighbourhood is overrun
with dogs, and as the natives often build their snow houses directly
over the ponds, the quality of the water is very bad, and probably
accounts for much of the sickness prevalent here.
[Illustration: HEAD OF NACHVAK BAY, LABRADOR.]
The mission is under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Peck, who for many years
has devoted his life to the instruction and welfare of the Eskimo about
Hudson bay, and, of late years, on Baffin island. He is ably assisted by
two younger men, both of whom have had medical training. The
headquarters of the mission are at Blacklead, from which place the
missionaries travel, several times a year, to Kekerten, on the north
side of the gulf, and to Cape Haven, on Cyrus Field bay, to the south.
In this manner all the natives of the southeastern part of Baffin island
are reached. The work of combating ancient superstitions has been hard
and slow, but the results of the mission are beginning to tell, and the
natives are now taking rapidly to the teaching and precept of the
missionaries. The total number of Eskimos reached is about five hundred,
and they are all connected with, and depend upon, the whaling stations
of Blacklead, Kekerten and Cape Haven.
During the summer months all the able-bodied men, with some of the women
and children, proceed to the head of the bays, and thence far inland, to
hunt the barren-ground caribou, to secure a supply of skins for winter
clothing and bedding. They are absent until September. On their return
they are employed at the whale fishery until the gulf freezes fast,
usually early in December. During the remainder of the winter, they
maintain themselves by harpooning seal through breathing-holes in the
solid ice, or by killing them in the open water, at the edge of the
floe. Whaling is resumed in March and continues until the ice breaks up;
then the seal hunt begins and ends only when the time arrives to go
inland again.
The whaling operations are carried on in a similar manner at all of the
stations. At each, there are one to three white men in charge, but the
actual work is done by the natives. The whales are taken by harpooning
them from boats cruising among the broken ice, at the edge of the solid
floe. Each station has from four to six boats; consequently nearly every
able-bodied native is employed in them during the whaling season. They
and their families, at such times, are fed with biscuit, coffee and
molasses from the supplies of the station, but supply their own animal
food. The men are paid irregularly for their work, usually in tobacco,
ammunition and clothing, and they receive extra pay when a whale is
captured. Of course the pay alone does not at all represent the value of
the whale, but the expense of the station, and the few whales killed
prohibit a large expenditure. On the whole, the whalers may be taken as
beneficial to the Eskimos, and now that the latter have long been
dependent upon the whalers for guns, ammunition and other articles of
civilization, there is no doubt that many would perish should the
whaling stations be closed without other provision being made for the
accustomed supplies.
Having obtained a pilot at Blacklead, we crossed, the next morning, to
Kekerten, which is situated on one of a group of small islands forming a
harbour a few miles from the mainland of the north side of the gulf.
Owing to the rocks, cargo can only be landed here at high water; the
harbour is open to the south, so that the anchorage is not safe during
the continuation of winds from that quarter.
A three-masted Norwegian schooner was found at anchor, discharging
supplies, and loading the oil, whalebone and skins taken during the past
year. The captain of the schooner and Mr. Noble, the son of the owner of
the station, from Aberdeen, boarded us shortly after arriving; from Mr.
Noble we learned that two whales had been taken in Cumberland gulf
during the past year. The oil and bone from these, together with the oil
and pelts of 3,000 seals, and some bear, wolf, fox and walrus skins
would realize a handsome profit, and lend encouragement to the
continuation of the stations, which, for several years previous, had not
cleared expenses.
[Illustration: PORT BURWELL AT EASTERN ENTRANCE TO HUDSON STRAIT.]
Mr. Noble informed us that white whales are abundant at the head of the
gulf during the summer, where they frequent the flat, muddy mouth of a
river. They are driven by whaleboats up the river, on the rising tide,
and kept there until the tide falls, when they become stranded upon the
mud flats and are easily killed. This fishery has only been prosecuted
in a desultory manner, and would probably pay if handled with judgment.
Two rivers on the north side, and one at the head of the gulf, are
famous for their large Arctic trout, or salmon, which abound in the
mouths of these streams during August. There is no doubt that a
profitable fishery could be prosecuted in all these streams, as well as
in many others along the coast to the northward and southward of
Cumberland gulf, but as yet no attempt has been made to fish them for
export.
The station at Kekerten consists of the usual half-dozen small
buildings, all nicely painted, with the whaleboats ranged on skids, and
barrels and tanks alongside clean and ready for use.
The same evening a return was made to Blacklead, where, taking on board
Captain Jackson, the new master of Cape Haven station, and his boat’s
crew of natives, we left again, under a brilliant moon, for Cape Haven.
The south shore of the gulf was closely followed, past innumerable bays
and narrow channels formed by the islands and deeply indented shores of
that side.
Cyrus Field bay was reached late the next afternoon, with a strong
northwesterly breeze. As the approach to Cape Haven is filled with
dangerous shoals, it was thought unadvisable to attempt to enter it so
late in the day, and the ship was headed up the bay, for a harbour known
as Frenchman cove. We arrived at dusk, to find the narrow entrance
blocked by a large iceberg, and the water too deep to anchor outside. A
boat was sent off, and soon returned, reporting a narrow passage between
the ice and rocks; with some danger this was passed, and the ship
anchored safely in the small bay. Two small deserted houses perched on a
narrow ledge of rock, close to the water, with a number of oil barrels
in the rear, represent the remains of a former small trading station.
The diminutive harbour is surrounded by sharply ragged hills of granite,
whose summits are splotched with patches of snow; the valleys between
are narrow and irregular, and are so thickly strewn with boulders and
broken rock that nearly every trace of soil is hidden. The scant Arctic
vegetation and the deserted houses enhance the desolation of the scene.
Having taken on board the casks of oil and a supply of fresh water, the
ship was headed for Cape Haven, where a station, similar to those
already described, was found on a snug harbour, behind a large island,
near the end of the cape. This station belongs to Potter and
Wrightington, of Boston, United States. For several years past it has
been unlucky, and the few whales taken have paid neither the expenses of
maintaining the station nor the cost of supplying it by a special
vessel. Natives sufficient to man four whaleboats live about this
station.
The general aspect of the country about Cyrus Field bay is somewhat
similar to that of Cumberland gulf: high, rugged hills of gneiss and
granite rise from 500 feet to 1,000 feet above the sea. The land on the
northern side of the bay is lower, and the waters of this portion are
broken by low islands and reefs, many of which become connected at low
tide.
A long chain of islands separates this bay from Frobisher bay to the
southward. These islands are all high and rocky; strong tides rush
through the channels between them, and although several of the channels
are reported to be safe for large ships, they are only used by the
natives as short cuts to Frobisher bay.
[Illustration: BLACKLEAD ISLAND, CUMBERLAND GULF.]
Cape Haven was left late on the afternoon of the 8th, and Hall island,
at the eastern extremity of the chain separating the bays, was passed in
the early evening. The course was then laid across the mouth of
Frobisher bay, to pass to the eastward of the great island of
Resolution, lying on the north side of the entrance to Hudson strait.
Monumental and Lady Franklin islands lie some twenty miles off the mouth
of Cyrus Field bay, and are about ten miles apart. A continuous string
of large icebergs stretched in a line between the islands, and continued
for some miles beyond them, both north and south. They showed that the
islands were but the exposed portions of a long dangerous bank, upon
which the bergs had grounded. A similar line of bergs was observed about
ten miles inside and parallel to the outer line. As this is the only
knowledge possessed of these reefs, ships crossing them should use
caution, although, in most places, sufficient water will probably be
found.
HUDSON STRAIT.
The bold, rocky shores of Resolution were passed during the night and
early morning, and during the afternoon we steamed westward along the
southern shores of Baffin island.
The channel between Resolution and Baffin islands is some miles wide,
but is obstructed by a number of smaller islands. Very strong tides rush
backwards and forwards through the channel, rendering dangerous an
otherwise good passage.
The southern shore of Baffin island is indented with many bays, and no
doubt when this coast is surveyed excellent harbours will be found along
it. The land rises rapidly from the coast, to an elevation of upwards of
2,500 feet; far inland is seen the glistening white surface of the great
Grinnel glacier, which flows northward into Frobisher bay. Not being
very active, it does not discharge icebergs.
The Saddle-back islands were passed in the evening; they number at least
twenty, or double the number laid down on the chart. There are
indications of good harbours between them. Soundings taken in the
vicinity of the supposed Gripper shoal did not indicate any such
obstruction to navigation. A large number of icebergs were passed during
the day, having been apparently drifted into the strait by the westerly
current of its north side, probably aided by favouring easterly winds.
They were not very numerous to the westward of Big island.
The morning of the 10th the ship was off Douglas harbour, and, from
there, coasted along the south side of the strait to Cape Weggs, whence
a passage was taken for the east end of Charles island. The north side
of that island was closely followed, in order to survey it.
[Illustration: KEKERTEN HARBOUR, CUMBERLAND GULF.]
Near the western end of the island many walrus were seen in the water
and upon a small islet close to the shore. As several of these animals
were required for dog-food during the coming winter, the ship was
anchored in a small harbour near by, and early next morning the small
launch was lowered ready for the chase. Soon after leaving the ship,
several hundred walruses were seen sporting in the water about the
islet. They were in bands, varying in numbers from ten to twenty, each
band probably composed of an old male and his harem. A band would be
singled out, and the launch, at full speed would put after it. When the
animals became aware that they were being chased, they would endeavour
to escape by diving, always keeping close together. At first they would
remain under several minutes, and would travel four hundred yards; as
the chase became hotter and hotter, the length of the dives gradually
decreased, so that, finally, the animals could hardly remain below the
surface. The launch was forced among the tumbling mass of frightened
creatures, and when directly over them, a man in the bow would select a
large one, and drive a harpoon into it. The head of the harpoon was
fastened by a few fathoms of line to an empty water keg, and as soon as
the harpoon was fast the keg was thrown overboard. This harpooning is
necessary, as the animals sink as soon as they are killed, and the
buoyancy of the keg is required to keep them from being lost. When one
had been harpooned, the launch was stopped, and the rest of the band
continued to flee. Now comes the dangerous moment of the chase. The
wounded walrus rises to the surface, and immediately attacks the launch,
which it endeavours to capsize by fixing its tusk over the side. Quick
shooting is the order, and even with a storm of bullets, many a monster
has to be rapped over the head or pushed away with guns and spears.
After this experience with the few first killed, it was found that by
keeping the propeller in motion and the whistle blowing, they would not
attack the launch, but would waste their energies in an endeavour to
destroy the keg; consequently the danger of the sport was considerably
lessened. Upwards of half a dozen shots, at close range, were necessary
to kill each walrus. As soon as one was dispatched, it was towed to the
ship, or to a convenient cove at the shore. Seven were captured during
the day, and hoisted on board, where they completely filled the after
deck. Owing to the difficulty of securing these large animals, at least
twice that number, fatally wounded, were lost; we later found this to be
the usual proportion of killed to captured, where these animals are
hunted for their skins and blubber, a waste of life altogether too
great.
That evening the ship was headed for Cape Wolstenholme, and early next
morning came to anchor in Erik cove, close to that headland. Advantage
was taken of a fine convenient stream of fresh water to fill the nearly
empty tanks. During the day, two large white bears were killed by the
hunters. The first was seen climbing along the steep cliffs fronting the
harbour, the second being found in a deep hole that it had dug into a
large snowbank, on the side of a high hill, and into which it had
retired for a cool sleep.
Erik cove is an excellent harbour formed by a wide gully in the high
hills of this part of the coast. The bay extends inland about two miles
from the general coast-line; and good anchorage is found within a
quarter of a mile of its head. On both sides, hills from 800 feet to
1,500 feet afford good protection against all but north winds.
Unfortunately the bay is V-shaped, and quite open to the north, so that
with strong winds from that direction it would be unsafe, and, during
the season of ice, the danger would be considerably enhanced, as, owing
to its shape, the ice would be liable to block, and to force a ship on
shore without much chance of escape. A small river which flows down the
continuation of the gorge winds from side to side of a low plain, which
narrows as it extends backwards from the sea, up the valley. An
excellent site for houses might be found on the plain near the mouth of
the river.
HUDSON BAY.
Squalls of snow delayed us until the afternoon of the 13th, when we
steamed westward along the north side of Digges islands. A bear was seen
climbing over the cliffs, and a boat was lowered in chase, but the
animal escaped. In the evening, the course was changed to northward, up
Fox channel. At daylight the next morning ice was met with some ten
miles from Leyson point. Steaming slowly through it, Seahorse point, on
Southampton island, was reached at noon, and a landing was made with the
launch. During the absence of the launch, the ship was sent out into the
ice to the northeast, in order to examine its condition. It was found to
be in large cakes of heavy rafted ice, too solid to penetrate at such a
late date.
[Illustration: WALRUS IN SMITH SOUND.]
Seahorse point is at the junction of the granites and gneisses with the
Silurian limestones. There is here a marked difference between the
southern limestone area and the northern country, underlain by the
crystalline rocks, with its typical long, low, rounded hills, lying in
roughly parallel ridges, and separated by wide shallow valleys, dotted
with lakes and ponds, or filled with coarse boulder clay, with boulders
scattered in bewildering profusion everywhere. This land, although high
by contrast with the limestone country, seldom reaches an elevation of
500 feet, and that only far inland. There is one conspicuous peak, which
rises like a great sugar loaf, far inland, its snow-capped summit of the
lightest blue.
The limestone country occupies all the southern part of this great
island, and also underlies the large islands of Coats and Mansfield
farther to the south. The same physical characteristics prevail wherever
the limestone is found. The low shores are bounded by gradually
deepening water, broken by dangerous reefs that extend several miles
from the land. The country rises very slowly inland, from the shores, in
a succession of low, broad terraces, each a few feet higher than the one
in front. These terraces are covered to a depth of several feet by
broken limestone, which affords perfect drainage, and in consequence the
surface is so dry that it will not even support a covering of the hardy
Arctic plants. This absence of vegetation leaves the monotonous
light-yellow shingle quite unrelieved by any dash of other colour, and
the general view is one of dry desolation, much worse than that of the
hilly country. The limestone region never reaches an elevation of one
hundred feet within walking distance of the shore.
The ship lay-to during the night, among scattered pans of ice, about
five miles from the land, and in forty fathoms of water. Late in the
evening two walruses were killed on ice pans close to the ship.
A return to the southward was made at daylight, and the ice was finally
left after passing Leyson point. During the passage through the ice, in
the early morning, hundreds of walrus were seen asleep on the floating
pans, and were left undisturbed. Skirting the low shores of the
so-called Bell island, Evans strait was entered, and, late in the
afternoon, we passed close to Walrus island in Fisher strait. This
island is composed of crystalline rocks, and although not very high, it
is conspicuous in contrast to the low shores on both sides of the
strait. The island is much smaller than shown on the chart, and is only
one island, not two, as marked there.
While passing through Evans and Fisher straits, soundings were taken
every five miles. The bottom was found to be very even, and covered with
fine sand or limestone debris. During the day the low shores of
Southampton were in sight, without any feature sufficiently marked to
afford a triangulation point.
The absence of ice in any part of Fisher strait led to the belief that
no channel existed between Bell island and Southampton. This has since
been confirmed by the captains of the _Era_ and _Active_, both having
narrowly escaped trouble in trying to pass through this supposed
channel, which, if it does exist, is very shallow and narrow, even at
high tide, and is so obstructed with shoals as to be absolutely
dangerous.
During the night of the 15th we passed the western entrance of Fisher
strait, and turned northward, up the west coast of Southampton. Frequent
soundings, taken as the ship passed over, or very close to, the position
of Tom island on the chart, gave no indications of it.
This island was placed on the chart, on the authority of Captain Lyon,
but nobody has since seen it.
[Illustration: FULLERTON HARBOUR.]
The 16th was thick and foggy, so that when the distance to Cape
Fullerton had been run down in the evening, and the water had shoaled to
twenty-five fathoms, the ship lay-to for the night. In the morning,
standing to the westward, breakers were seen at nine o’clock; shortly
after, several low islands were passed, and at noon the launch was sent
ahead to sound the way into a long bay, which subsequently proved to be
Winchester inlet. A good harbour, sheltered by islands, was found on the
east side of the bay, and about three miles from its mouth, where the
anchor was dropped at six o’clock in the evening.
The country surrounding Winchester inlet is very similar to that
bounding the whole of the northwestern part of Hudson bay. The country
is underlain by Archæan crystalline rocks, and has all the physical
characteristics common to similar areas in the south. Long, gently
rounded hills, of slight elevation, form the higher grounds, with wide,
shallow valleys between them. The whole has been intensely glaciated,
and the abrasion of the great ice-cap has reduced the general surface to
as near a level surface as is possible, considering the varying
resisting properties of the different rocks found here.
There is no soil upon the rocky hills, while that of the valleys is
largely boulder clay, in which the coarser material predominates,
leaving little room for the growth of Arctic vegetation upon the finer
materials of the soil. Boulders scattered in profusion over the rocky
hills give to the latter a peculiar ragged appearance. Lakes and ponds
dot the valleys, and much of the land surrounding these is low and
swampy.
The shores of the bay are low, and are masked, in most places, by a wide
fringe of low rocky islands, while beyond the islands the danger zone is
continued several miles seaward by a labyrinth of sunken reefs. The
bottom of the bay, beyond these reefs, continues very uneven, so that in
the portion between Winchester and Chesterfield inlets there is danger
of a ship grounding, when beyond the sight of the low shores. The
proximity to the magnetic pole accounts for the sluggishness of the
compass in these waters, where no reliance can be placed on it. This,
with the uncharted, low coast, bare of prominent landmarks, renders the
approach to any of the harbours uncertain and dangerous.
Inland from the shores the country rises slowly; indeed, the general
elevation does not increase towards the interior above ten feet a mile,
while along the shores there are no hills more than fifty feet high.
Our instructions were to find, and, if possible, to pass the winter in
company with the American whaling ship known to be in Hudson bay. The
whalers formerly wintered at Marble island, or at Depot island; the
former is to the southward of the mouth of Chesterfield inlet, the
latter close to the entrance of Winchester inlet. Marble island has long
been abandoned, chiefly on account of its insufficient water supply.
Within the last few years a more convenient harbour was found close to
Cape Fullerton, and the large launch was fitted out to search for it,
the _Era_ not being in the harbour at Depot island.
A strong gale lasted from the 18th to the 22nd, and we were very lucky
to be in such a good harbour. While awaiting an abatement of the gale,
several Eskimos came overland to the ship, and were taken aboard. They
were from Cape Fullerton, and were going inland from Winchester inlet to
kill barren-ground caribou for their winter clothing. They had seen the
ship as she passed, but could not reach us with their whaleboats owing
to the gale. We learned from them that the _Era_ was already in winter
quarters at Fullerton. This information rendered the proposed trip in
the launch useless, and it was therefore determined to send her up
Chesterfield inlet, as the only place where a sufficient supply of
deerskins for our winter clothing could be procured from the natives.
The services of an old Eskimo, named Scotty, were secured as pilot for
the launch, while another, Gilbert, consented to pilot the ship to
Fullerton harbour.
The crew of the launch consisted of the second mate, third engineer, a
fireman, sailor, the interpreter, Scotty and myself. We left the ship
early on the morning of the 23rd, and the launch behaved admirably in
the heavy head sea raised by the recent gale. A southerly course was
followed, past Depot island, but the numerous shoals gradually forced us
away from the mainland, so that the boat was ten miles from the mainland
at the mouth of Chesterfield inlet, and even at that distance
considerable difficulty was experienced in keeping clear of the shoals.
They were eventually passed without mishap, and the course was changed
to westward along the south side of Promise island, and then along that
of the inlet, so that by dark we were fifty miles above its mouth. After
steaming twenty miles farther, on the following morning the lower Eskimo
settlement was reached, situated on a large bay on the north side of the
inlet. All the men were absent hunting deer, and although there were
many skins about the encampment, the women would not part with them
without the permission of the men. The latter were not expected back
until the next evening, so it was determined to continue on to the upper
encampment, located thirty miles above the lower, on the southern
channel, past Bowell island, where the inlet discharges from Baker lake.
This encampment was reached early in the afternoon, and the absent
hunters were signalled for with smoke. They arrived about two hours
after us, and a lively barter was kept up until after dark, upwards of
fifty skins and a considerable quantity of meat being purchased for
powder, tobacco, knives and files. Four tents of Eskimos were at this
place, which is a noted crossing of the deer in their annual migrations
to the north and south. Great numbers had already been killed, and
half-putrid heads were scattered in all directions about the tents.
Early next morning the launch was headed east, and, assisted by a strong
tide, soon reached the lower encampment. The men were still absent, and
did not return until the following morning, when we secured about as
many skins and as much meat as at the upper camp. Leaving early in the
afternoon, we continued down the inlet; at dark, the pilot became
confused amongst the many islands off Dangerous point, and advised
anchoring until daylight. An anchor watch was set, and the remainder of
the crew went to sleep, to be awakened at midnight by the startling news
that the launch was aground and the tide still falling. Efforts were
immediately made to float her, but without avail. She soon fell over on
her side, when the water rushed in, partly filling her. Some of the crew
were then set to ferrying the cargo to a neighbouring island, while the
rest bailed out the water and endeavoured to keep it out as the tide
rose again, but without success, so the energies of all were devoted to
saving everything possible. Many things were lost during the hurry and
darkness, and daylight came to a cold and forlorn party stranded on a
small island. Arrangements were made, during the morning, to erect the
boat mast as a Spanish windlass, and with the assistance of the small
boat to raise the launch upright with the next rising tide.
Unfortunately the tide did not fall low enough to free the boat of
water, or to permit a fair trial of our improvised tackle. The ponds of
fresh water were already frozen over, and the weather was becoming cold
and boisterous; not a day, therefore, could be lost in sending the
twelve-foot dinghy to Fullerton for assistance. The energies of the
party were now devoted to transferring the goods and cargo from the
island to the mainland, about a mile distant, as it would not do to
leave the party on an island without means of reaching the shores of the
inlet. This work continued until dark, when, after a hurried meal,
Wells, Ford and Scotty were sent off in the dinghy, with instructions to
reach the _Neptune_ as soon as possible; the remainder of the party,
wrapped in their blankets, laid down for a deserved rest. The following
days were spent in drying and cleaning the skins and other articles
saved from the wreck, and in hunting and fishing, neither of which was
successful.
[Illustration: WRECK CAMP, CHESTERFIELD INLET.]
During these days the weather became cold, and several inches of snow
fell, which added to the discomfort of our temporary shelter. Early on
the afternoon of the 3rd of October the smoke of the _Neptune_ was seen
far down the inlet, and she came to anchor at dark in a harbour about
ten miles to the east of the camp. Captain Comer, of the _Era_, in one
of his whaleboats manned by natives was the first to arrive the next
morning, and was followed later by three of the ship’s boats. Ropes were
fastened to the launch and boats, and as the tide rose the wreck was
lifted from the bottom and buoyed into shoaler water alongside the
island, where it was left until the next tide. Leaving sufficient men to
continue the work, Captain Bartlett and the writer started in the
whaleboat, double-manned, for the ship late in the afternoon. We had
gone only a short distance when a heavy snowstorm came on. We continued
rowing in this very thick weather until ten o’clock, when, within a
couple of miles of the ship, we were obliged to stop owing to the
intense darkness. We landed on a small island and made a partial shelter
from the storm by placing the boat sail against a low cliff. The
quarters were so small that all were obliged to stand, and so the night
was passed. Next morning it took two hours to dig the sail from under
the snow, after which we resumed our journey to the ship and only
reached it by the help of a long line attached to a keg, paid out to us
from the ship, which was reached at eleven o’clock, after an exciting
and exhausting twenty-four hours.
The crew of the dinghy had made excellent time on their trip to
Fullerton to seek relief. The first night they made only a few miles,
being very tired and having a strong tide against them. The next day the
mouth of the inlet was reached; the night following they slept at Depot
island. Next day with a fair wind and heavy sea they arrived close to
Fullerton, and reached the ship the following morning. The _Neptune_
started to our relief that afternoon, and anchored for the night off
Depot island, Captain Comer, who had kindly volunteered, acting as
pilot. The next day, when out of sight of land, on the north side of the
entrance to Chesterfield inlet, the ship struck twice, and was in
shallow water all the way to Promise island, after which the water of
the inlet was found to be uniformly deep.
The gale in which we reached the ship continued for three days. On the
evening of the 3rd of October the men with the boats returned to the
ship, and reported having had a very rough time of it, in the makeshift
camp there. On the 8th the ship steamed up the inlet and anchored close
to the sunken launch. Efforts to bring her alongside the ship were
immediately undertaken, and next morning she was successfully hoisted
aboard. In the afternoon we started down the inlet, and anchored for the
night a few miles above Promise island. On the 10th a heavy gale blew
from the westward, accompanied by frequent, thick snow squalls. The
anchor was raised at daylight on the morning following, when, keeping
well to the southward of the shoals beyond the mouth of the inlet, we
arrived safely at Fullerton at dusk that evening.
[Illustration: ‘NEPTUNE’ IN WINTER QUARTERS.]
[Illustration: SOUTHAMPTON ISLAND.]