changing its aspect at every mile, and when we first descried Old Town,
that village of saw-mills looked like an island covered with
manufactories. The people here are noted for their industry and
perseverance, and any one possessing a mill, and attending to his saws,
and the floating of the timber into his dams, is sure to obtain a
competency in a few years. Speculations in land covered with pine, lying
to the north of this place, are carried on to a great extent, and to
discover a good tract of such ground many a miller of Old Town
undertakes long journeys. Reader, with your leave, I will here introduce
one of them.
Good luck brought us into acquaintance with Mr. Gillies, whom we
happened to meet in the course of our travels, as he was returning from
an exploring tour. About the first of August he formed a party of
sixteen persons, each carrying a knapsack and an axe. Their provisions
consisted of two hundred and fifty pounds of pilot bread, one hundred
and fifty of salt pork, four of tea, two large loaves of sugar, and some
salt. They embarked in light canoes twelve miles north of Bangor, and
followed the Penobscot as far as Wassataquoik River, a branch leading to
the northwest, until they reached the Seboois Lakes, the principal of
which lie in a line, with short portages between them. Still proceeding
northwest they navigated these lakes, and then turning west, carried
their canoes to the great lake Baamchenunsgamook; thence north to
Wallaghasquegantook Lake, then along a small stream to the upper
Umsaskiss Pond, when they reached the Albagash River which leads into
the St. John in about latitude 47 deg.. Many portions of that country had
not been visited before even by the Indians, who assured Mr. Gillies of
this fact. They continued their travels down the St. John to the Grand
Falls, where they met with a portage of half a mile, and having reached
Meduxmekeag Creek, a little above Woodstock, the party walked to
Houlton, having travelled twelve hundred miles, and described almost an
oval over the country by the time they returned to Old Town, on the
Penobscot.
While anxiously looking for "lumber-lands," they ascended the eminences
around, then climbed the tallest trees, and by means of a good
telescope, inspected the pine woods in the distance. And such excellent
judges are these persons of the value of the timber which they thus
observe, when it is situated at a convenient distance from water, that
they never afterwards forget the different spots at all worthy of their
attention. They had observed only a few birds and quadrupeds, the latter
principally Porcupines. The borders of the lakes and rivers afforded
them fruits of various sorts, and abundance of cranberries, while the
uplands yielded plenty of wild white onions, and a species of black
plum. Some of the party continued their journey in canoes down the St.
John, ascended Eel River, and the lake of the same name to Matanemheag
River, due southwest of the St. John, and after a few portages fell into
the Penobscot.
I had made arrangements to accompany Mr. Gillies on a journey of this
kind, when I judged it would be more interesting as well as useful to me
to visit the distant country of Labrador.
The road which we followed from Old Town to Bangor was literally covered
with Penobscot Indians returning from market. On reaching the latter
beautiful town, we found very comfortable lodging in an excellent hotel,
and next day we proceeded by the mail to Boston.
A MOOSE HUNT
In the spring of 1833 the Moose were remarkably abundant in the
neighborhood of the Schoodiac Lakes; and, as the snow was so deep in the
woods as to render it almost impossible for them to escape, many of them
were caught. About the 1st of March, 1833, three of us set off on a
hunt, provided with snow-shoes, guns, hatchets, and provisions for a
fortnight. On the first day we went fifty miles, in a sledge drawn by
one horse, to the nearest lake, where we stopped for the night, in the
hut of an Indian named Lewis, of the Passamaquoddy tribe, who had
abandoned the wandering life of his race, and turned his attention to
farming and lumbering. Here we saw the operation of making snow-shoes,
which requires more skill than one might imagine. The men generally make
the bows to suit themselves, and the women weave in the threads, which
are usually made of the skin of the Caribou Deer.
The next day we went on foot sixty-two miles farther, when a heavy
rain-storm coming on, we were detained a whole day. The next morning we
put on snow-shoes, and proceeded about thirteen miles, to the head of
the Musquash Lake, where we found a camp, which had been erected by some
lumberers in the winter; and here we established our headquarters. In
the afternoon an Indian had driven a female Moose-deer, and two young
ones of the preceding year, within a quarter of a mile of our camp, when
he was obliged to shoot the old one. We undertook to procure the young
alive, and after much exertion succeeded in getting one of them, and
shut it up in the shed made for the oxen; but as the night was falling,
we were compelled to leave the other in the woods. The dogs having
killed two fine Deer that day, we feasted upon some of their flesh, and
upon Moose, which certainly seemed to us the most savory meat we had
ever eaten, although a keen appetite is very apt to warp one's judgment
in such a case. After supper we laid ourselves down before the huge fire
we had built up, and were soon satisfied that we had at last discovered
the most comfortable mode of sleeping.
In the morning we started off on the track of a Moose, which had been
driven from its haunt, or yard, by the Indians the day before; and
although the snow was in general five feet deep, and in some places much
deeper, we travelled three miles before we came to the spot where the
Moose had rested for the night. He had not left this place more than an
hour, when we came to it. So we pushed on faster than before, trusting
that ere long we should overtake him. We had proceeded about a mile and
a half farther, when he took a sudden turn, which threw us off his
track, and when we again found it, we saw that an Indian had taken it
up, and gone in pursuit of the harassed animal. In a short time we heard
the report of a gun, and immediately running up, we saw the Moose,
standing in a thicket, wounded, when we brought him down. The animal
finding himself too closely pursued, had turned upon the Indian, who
fired, and instantly ran into the bushes to conceal himself. It was
three years old, and consequently not nearly grown, although already
about six feet and a half in height.
It is difficult to conceive how an animal could have gone at such a rate
when the snow was so deep, with a thick crust at top. In one place, he
had followed the course of a brook, over which the snow had sunk
considerably on account of the higher temperature of the water, and we
had an opportunity of seeing evidence of the great power which the
species possess in leaping over objects that obstruct his way. There
were places in which the snow had drifted to so great a height that you
would have imagined it impossible for any animal to leap over it, and
yet we found that he had done so at a single bound, without leaving the
least trace. As I did not measure these snow-heaps, I cannot positively
say how high they were, but I am well persuaded that some of them were
ten feet.
We proceeded to skin and dress the Moose, and buried the flesh under the
snow, where it will keep for weeks. On opening the animal we were
surprised to see the great size of the heart and lungs, compared with
the contents of the abdomen. The heart was certainly larger than that of
any animal which I had seen. The head bears a great resemblance to that
of a horse, but the "muffle" is more than twice as large, and when the
animal is irritated or frightened, it projects that part much farther
than usual. It is stated in some descriptions of the Moose that he is
short-winded and tender-footed, but he certainly is capable of long
continued and very great exertion, and his feet, for anything that I
have seen to the contrary, are as hard as those of any other quadruped.
The young Moose was so exhausted and fretted that it offered no
opposition to us as we led it to the camp; but in the middle of the
night we were awakened by a great noise in the hovel, and found that as
it had in some measure recovered from its terror and state of
exhaustion, it began to think of getting home, and was now much enraged
at finding itself so securely imprisoned. We were unable to do anything
with it, for if we merely approached our hands to the openings of the
hut, it would spring at us with the greatest fury, roaring and erecting
its mane, in a manner that convinced us of the futility of all attempts
to save it alive. We threw to it the skin of a Deer, which it tore to
pieces in a moment. This individual was a yearling, and about six feet
high. When we went to look for the other, which we had left in the
woods, we found that he had "taken his back-track" or retraced his
steps, and gone to the "beat," about a mile and a half distant, and
which it may be interesting to describe.
At the approach of winter, parties of Moose-deer, from two to fifty in
number, begin to lessen their range, and proceed slowly to the south
side of some hill, where they feed within still narrower limits, as the
snow begins to fall. When it accumulates on the ground, the snow, for a
considerable space, is divided into well trodden, irregular paths, in
which they keep, and browse upon the bushes at the sides, occasionally
striking out a new path, so that, by the spring, many of those made at
the beginning of winter are obliterated. A "yard" for half a dozen
Moose, would probably contain about twenty acres.
A good hunter, although still a great way off, will not only perceive
that there is a yard in the vicinity, but can tell the direction in
which it lies, and even be pretty sure of the distance. It is by the
marks on the trees that he discovers this circumstance; he finds the
young maple, and especially the moose-wood and birch, with the bark
gnawed off to the height of five or six feet on one side, and the twigs
bitten, with the impression of the teeth left in such a manner, that the
position of the animal when browsing on them, may be ascertained.
Following the course indicated by these marks, the hunter gradually
finds them more distinct and frequent, until at length he arrives at the
yard; but there he finds no Moose, for long before he reaches the place,
their extremely acute smell and hearing warn them of his approach, when
they leave the yard, generally altogether, the strongest leading in one
track, or in two or three parties. When pursued they usually separate,
except the females, which keep with their young, and go before to break
the track for them; nor will they leave them under any circumstances
until brought down by their ruthless pursuers. The males, especially the
old ones, being quite lean at this season, go off at great speed, and
unless the snow is extremely deep, soon outstrip the hunters. They
usually go in the direction of the wind, making many short turns to keep
the scent, or to avoid some bad passage; and although they may sink to
the bottom at every step, they cannot be overtaken in less than three or
four days. The females, on the contrary, are remarkably fat, and it is
not at all unfrequent to find in one of them a hundred pounds of raw
tallow. But let us return to the young buck, which had regained the
yard.
We found him still more untractable than the female we had left in the
hovel; he had trodden down the snow for a small space around him, which
he refused to leave, and would spring with great fury at any one who
approached the spot too near; and as turning on snow-shoes is not an
easy operation, we were content to let him alone, and try to find one in
a better situation for capture, knowing that if we did eventually secure
him, he would probably, in the struggle injure himself too much to live.
I have good reason to believe that the only practicable mode of taking
them uninjured, except when they are very young, is, when they are
exhausted and completely defenceless, to bind them securely, and keep
them so till they have become pacified, and convinced of the uselessness
of any attempt at resistance. If allowed to exert themselves as they
please, they almost always kill themselves, as we found by experience.
On the following day we again set out, and coming across the tracks of
two young bucks, which had been started by the Indians, we pursued them,
and in two or three miles, overtook them. As it was desirable to obtain
them as near the camp as possible, we attempted to steer them that way.
For a while we succeeded very well in our scheme, but at last one of
them, after making many ineffectual attempts to get another way, turned
upon his pursuer, who, finding himself not very safe, felt obliged to
shoot him. His companion, who was a little more tractable, we drove on a
short way, but as he had contrived to take many turnings, he could
approach us on his back-track too swiftly, so that we were compelled to
shoot him also. We "dressed" them, taking with us the tongues and
muffles, which are considered the most delicate parts.
We had not walked more than a quarter of a mile, when we perceived some
of the indications before mentioned, which we followed for half a mile,
when we came across a yard, and going round it, we found where the Moose
had left it, though we afterwards learned that we had missed a fine
buck, which the dogs, however, discovered later. We soon overtook a
female with a young one, and were not long in sight of them when they
stood at bay. It is really wonderful how soon they beat down a hard
space in the snow to stand upon, when it is impossible for a dog to
touch them, as they stamp so violently with their fore-feet that it is
certain death to approach them. This Moose had only one calf with her,
though the usual number is two, almost invariably a male and a female.
We shot them with a ball through the brain.
The Moose bears a considerable resemblance to the horse in his
conformation, and in his disposition a still greater, having much of the
sagacity as well as viciousness of that animal. We had an opportunity of
observing the wonderful acuteness of its hearing and smelling. As we
were standing by one, he suddenly erected his ears, and put himself on
the alert, evidently aware of the approach of some person. About ten
minutes after, one of our party came up, who must have been at the time
at least half a mile off, and the wind was from the Moose towards him.
This species of Deer feeds on the hemlock, cedar, fir, or pine, but will
not touch the spruce. It also eats the twigs of the maple, birch, and
soft shoots of other trees. In the autumn they may be enticed by
imitating their peculiar cry, which is described as truly frightful. The
hunter gets up into a tree, or conceals himself in some other secure
place, and imitates this cry by means of a piece of birch-bark rolled up
to give the proper tone. Presently he hears the Moose come dashing
along, and when he gets near enough, takes a good aim, and soon
despatches him. It is very unsafe to stand within reach of the animal,
for he would certainly endeavor to demolish you.
A full-grown male Moose is said to measure nine feet in height, and with
his immense branching antlers presents a truly formidable appearance.
Like the Virginia Deer, and the male Caribou, they shed their horns
every year about the beginning of December. The first year their horns
are not dropped in spring. When irritated the Moose makes a great
grinding with his teeth, erects his mane, lays back his ears, and stamps
with violence. When disturbed he makes a hideous whining noise, much in
the manner of the Camel.
In that wild and secluded part of the country, seldom visited but by the
Indians, the common Deer were without number, and it was with great
difficulty that we kept the dogs with us, as they were continually
meeting with "beats." In its habits that species greatly resembles the
Moose. The Caribou has a very broad, flat foot, and can spread it on the
snow to the fetlock, so as to be able to run on a crust scarcely hard
enough to bear a dog. When the snow is soft, they keep in immense droves
around the margins of the large lakes to which they betake themselves
when pursued, the crust being much harder there than elsewhere. When it
becomes more firm, they strike into the woods. As they possess such
facility of running on snow, they do not require to make any yards, and
consequently have no fixed place in the winter. The speed of this animal
is not well known, but I am inclined to believe it much greater than
that of the fleetest horse.
In our camp we saw great numbers of Crossbills, Grosbeaks, and various
other small birds. Of the first of these were two species which were
very tame, and alighted on our hut with the greatest familiarity. We
caught five or six at once, under a snow-shoe. The Pine-Martin and Wild
Cat were also very abundant.[57]
LABRADOR
When I look back upon the many pleasant hours that I spent with the
young gentlemen who composed my party, during our excursions along the
coast of sterile and stormy Labrador, I think that a brief account of
our employments may prove not altogether uninteresting to my readers.
We had purchased our stores at Boston, with the aid of my generous
friend, Dr. Parkman of that city; but unfortunately many things
necessary on an expedition like ours were omitted. At Eastport in Maine
we therefore laid in these requisites. No traveller, let me say, ought
to neglect anything that is calculated to insure the success of his
undertaking, or to contribute to his personal comfort, when about to set
out on a long and perhaps hazardous voyage. Very few opportunities of
replenishing stores of provisions, clothing, or ammunition, occur in
such a country as Labrador; and yet, we all placed too much confidence
in the zeal and foresight of our purveyors at Eastport. We had abundance
of ammunition, excellent bread, meat, and potatoes; but the butter was
quite rancid, the oil only fit to grease our guns, the vinegar too
liberally diluted with cider, the mustard and pepper deficient in due
pungency. All this, however, was not discovered until it was too late to
be remedied. Several of the young men were not clothed as hunters should
be, and some of the guns were not so good as we could have wished. We
were, however, fortunate with respect to our vessel, which was a notable
sailer, did not leak, had a good crew, and was directed by a capital
seaman.
The hold of the schooner was floored, and an entrance made to it from
the cabin, so that in it we had a very good parlor, dining-room,
drawing-room, library, etc., all those apartments, however, being
comprised in one. An extravagantly elongated deal table ranged along
the centre; one of the party had slung his hammock at one end, and in
its vicinity slept the cook and a lad who acted as armorer. The cabin
was small; but being fitted in the usual manner with side berths, was
used for a dormitory. It contained a small table and a stove, the latter
of diminutive size, but smoky enough to discomfit a host. We had adopted
in a great measure the clothing worn by the American fishermen on that
coast, namely, thick blue cloth trousers, a comfortable waistcoat, and a
pea-jacket of blanket. Our boots were large, round-toed, strong, and
well studded with large nails to prevent sliding on the rocks. Worsted
comforters, thick mittens, and round broad-brimmed hats, completed our
dress, which was more picturesque than fashionable. As soon as we had an
opportunity, the boots were exchanged for Esquimaux mounted moccasins of
Seal-skin, impermeable to water, light, easy, and fastening at top about
the middle of the thigh to straps, which when buckled over the hips
secured them well. To complete our equipment, we had several good boats,
one of which was extremely light and adapted for shallow water.
No sooner had we reached the coast and got into harbor, than we agreed
to follow certain regulations intended for the general benefit. Every
morning the cook was called before three o'clock. At half-past three,
breakfast was on the table, and everybody equipped. The guns,
ammunition, botanical boxes, and baskets for eggs or minerals were all
in readiness. Our breakfast consisted of coffee, bread, and various
other materials. At four, all except the cook, and one seaman, went off
in different directions, not forgetting to carry with them a store of
cooked provisions. Some betook themselves to the islands, others to the
deep bays; the latter on landing wandered over the country till noon,
when laying themselves down on the rich moss, or sitting on the granite
rock, they would rest for an hour, eat their dinner, and talk of their
successes or disappointments. I often regret that I did not take
sketches of the curious groups formed by my young friends on such
occasions, and when, after returning at night, all were engaged in
measuring, weighing, comparing, and dissecting the birds we had
procured; operations which were carried on with the aid of a number of
candles thrust into the necks of bottles. Here one examined the flowers
and leaves of a plant, there another explored the recesses of a Diver's
gullet, while a third skinned a Gull or a Grouse. Nor was one journal
forgotten. Arrangements were made for the morrow, and at twelve we left
matters to the management of the cook, and retired to our roosts.
If the wind blew hard, all went on shore, and, excepting on a few
remarkably rainy days, we continued our pursuits, much in the same
manner during our stay in the country. The physical powers of the young
men were considered in making our arrangements. Shattuck and Ingalls
went together; the captain and Coolidge were fond of each other, the
latter having also been an officer; Lincoln and my son being the
strongest and most determined hunters, generally marched by themselves;
and I went with one or other of the parties, according to circumstances,
although it was by no means my custom to do so regularly, as I had
abundance of work on hand in the vessel.
The return of my young companions and the sailors was always looked for
with anxiety. On getting on board, they opened their budgets, and laid
their contents on the deck, amid much merriment, those who had procured
most specimens being laughed at by those who had obtained the rarest,
and the former joking the latter in return. A substantial meal always
awaited them, and fortunate we were in having a capital cook, although
he was a little too fond of the bottle.
Our "Fourth of July" was kept sacred, and every Saturday night the toast
of "wives and sweethearts" was the first given, "parents and friends"
the last. Never was there a more merry set. Some with the violin and
flute accompanied the voices of the rest, and few moments were spent in
idleness. Before a month had elapsed, the spoils of many a fine bird
hung around the hold; shrubs and flowers were in the press, and I had
several drawings finished, some of which you have seen, and of which I
hope you will ere long see the remainder. Large jars were filling apace
with the bodies of rare birds, fishes, quadrupeds and reptiles, as well
as molluscous animals. We had several pets too, Gulls, Cormorants,
Guillemots, Puffins, Hawks, and a Raven. In some of the harbors, curious
fishes were hooked in our sight, so clear was the water.