SUCCESS AT LAST.
_August 14._--This was a most eventful day in our quiet life, and one
fraught with episode. For the first time there was a breeze, so the
Skipper went out fishing, and John to practise canoeing in a wind, which
is an art requiring considerable dexterity in these Canadian canoes.
They are beautiful sea boats, and beat the 'Rob Roy' hollow for any
purposes where room for baggage is required. In our two, which are only
small, we have transported between 800 and 900 lbs.; but their worst
feature is decidedly exhibited in a wind, for the broad flat bottom and
absence of keel cause them to drift very fast, and make it difficult to
keep them straight. It can only be done by paddling from amidships
instead of from the stern.
Esau went out stalking, full of hope from the aurora and the favourable
wind.
The Skipper was lucky and caught some very good fish, and then returning
to camp constructed a most lovely wimberry tart. He had just finished
the enclosure of the same in the oven, and was proceeding to remove the
flour and ashes and other debris from his hands, while John reclined at
his ease under an awning with our latest 'Field'--three weeks old--when
they heard a hail overhead, and behold a swarm of visitors from Rus
Vand! Mr. and Mrs. Thomas, Miss A----, and their friend F----, who is
the most celebrated deerstalker in the country. He is reported to never
miss a shot, and occasionally shoots flying ryper with a rifle.
They tumultuously demanded lunch, and the Skipper with John had a pretty
busy time of it for about twenty minutes, and the wimberry tart had to
be left to its fate in the sultry climate of the oven. Our larder just
now is not well supplied with anything except fish; so that the utmost
exertions could only produce a meal which to people who have had
reindeer for several days must have seemed poor indeed. Fried trout,
Skoggaggany soup, tea, beer, bread, biscuits, and marmalade, was the
bill of fare, for there was no time to do anything in the 'gibier' line,
birds taking some time to pluck and clean. However, to our guests there
were some points of this meal decidedly worthy of attention, viz. the
beer, marmalade, and bread: they have none of these at Rus Vand, as
their attempts at bread have hitherto been failures, while ours has been
very first-rate ever since the oven was built, and was much appreciated.
We have been informed that the proper thing in these days, when writing
a book, is to recommend some condiment or patent medicine to the notice
of the confiding public. As there is no chance of our meeting any Arab
sheiks in Memurudalen, we have to fall back on this episode of the
bread, and seize the opportunity to sing to the world the praises of
'Yeatman's Yeast Powder,' by far the best that we have tried, and
invaluable on an expedition of this kind for bread, pastry, and
pancakes. Now let old Yeatman send his hundred guineas, care of Esau,
and we will see that they are devoted to a proper use.
To return to our guests. We made an awning on what we call the
lawn--size six feet by fourteen feet--out of two rugs and some birch
poles, and lunched under that, as the sun was cruelly hot. There was a
good deal of the ordinary picnic about the meal, as we have only four
plates, cups, knives, &c., and had to eat fish out of the frying-pan,
and drink beer out of a jam pot, and a condensed-milk tin with the top
cut off and the sharp edge turned down. But all these drawbacks were met
in the true picnic spirit, which 'de minimis non curat' so long as there
is something to eat. Our two last bottles of beer were sacrificed, and
it went to our hearts to have to pour away our beloved Skoggaggany soup
when the cups were wanted for tea, for our visitors did not 'go for' the
soup with the same alacrity that distinguishes us. Possibly it occurred
to them that the middle of a blazing hot August day was not the most
suitable time for highly seasoned, substantial, nearly boiling liquid to
be poured down their throats.
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas and Miss A---- all spoke English well, but their
friend young F---- could neither speak it nor understand it: however, he
wished to be genial and polite, and replied 'Oh yase, tank you,'
whenever any remark was made to him. In consequence of this amiable
trait, John, who thought he could talk our language as well as the
others, supplied him with beer, whisky and water, tea, soup, and
marmalade all at the same time, to each of which articles when offered
he had replied 'Oh yase, tank you.' This made a sad run on our limited
supply of crockery.
Lunch ended, the Skipper volunteered as usual to take the party one by
one for a cruise in his canoe. This with the ordinary English lady would
be a matter of considerable risk, but all Norwegians--ladies as well as
men--are accustomed to boats, and very nearly all of them can swim. But
the trip was quite dangerous enough, for both the ladies insisted on
kneeling in the right position and paddling themselves, and there was a
good sea on, with a distant threatening storm. While Mrs. Thomas was
pursuing her adventurous career, her husband danced on the bank after
the manner of a hen with ducklings crying, 'Come back! come back! you go
too far out!' but we grieve to record that she did not care a little
bit, and was so delighted with the canoe that the Skipper had some
difficulty in persuading her to return. May she live long to paddle that
canoe, for it now belongs to her.
About four o'clock the call came to an end, and our friends departed
over the mountain to Rus Vand, at the west end of which they expected to
meet their boat. Before going they made us promise to go and see them
next Tuesday, and will send a boat to convey us down the lake.
[Illustration: Esau and Ola return in Triumph]
Soon after six Esau came into camp in an offensively jaunty manner,
followed by Öla with the heads and skins, and what the lawyers call the
appurts, to wit, the heart, kidneys, feet, and liver of two reindeer
bucks. Then was there great rejoicing in that little colony, and dinner
was served and disposed of with light hearts, even the neglected
wimberry tart being a complete success, for owing to its gigantic size,
its long baking in a cooling oven had not been too much for it, and it
was finished to the last crumb of paste and spoonful of juice.
Our custom is, when a man returns with deer, that he shall lie on the
sheepskin of indolence if so disposed, while the other fellows prepare
dinner; and after the meal is finished and men are beginning to lean
back and fill their pipes, he is expected to relate his adventures
without interruption; after this he is never to refer to them again
unless specially requested. Now for Esau's story.
'We went on to Memurutungen and began to find fresh tracks and signs of
deer almost directly, so were on the tiptoe of expectation all the
morning. About midday Öla found two deer on a small patch of snow, five
or six miles from camp, in a very favourable place for approaching them,
with the wind as right as it could be. We made a lovely stalk; but when
after an hour's creeping we got to the spot, we were just in time to see
them disappear, slowly feeding over the hill. We followed as fast as
possible, and soon came in sight of them again, for as the deer always
feed against the wind there is no danger of alarming them by following
on their tracks. A few minutes of breathless crawling like serpents, and
we were within 100 yards, nearer than I ever got to reindeer before. One
of them soon gave me a nice side shot, and when I fired he almost fell,
but recovered himself, and they both ran down the hill towards a little
glacier. I fired again at him and missed; and then ran as hard as I
could towards the glacier, cramming in cartridges as I ran. They were
both out of sight for a moment behind some rocks, and then the unwounded
one came into view again, and I had a nice shot at him at about 150
yards, and was lucky enough to send a bullet just above his heart, which
killed him instantly at the edge of the glacier.
[Illustration: A careful Finishing Shot]
'I ran straight on, and following round the shoulder of the hill, saw
the other one standing about 100 yards away, unable to go any further.
I was in about the same state myself, so sat down, took as careful an
aim as I could, and fired a shot which finished him. How he had ever got
so far is a mystery, as the first shot only missed his heart by about an
inch. The second went in touching the hole made by the first, and killed
him at once.
'We gralloched them, and built the meat up with stones to preserve it
from ravens, and the great bugbear of hunters, the "jarraf," as they
call it; filfras is its English name. I think it is identical with the
North American wolverine or glutton.'
The lecturer concluded his observations amid great applause.
Let it be understood that the running which is done in pursuit of deer
is a gymnastic performance of the utmost difficulty, for these mountains
are almost entirely composed of loose stones with sharp, clean edges.
These stones vary in size, but otherwise are all similar, and have no
more tendency to stick together and lie quiet than the lumps in a basin
of sugar. So that running over them means--for an extremely active
man--a pace of perhaps four miles an hour; for a deer about six or
seven. Consequently the deer always when disturbed try to get on to
snow, for there they can go a great, but unascertained pace--apparently
somewhere about eighty miles an hour.
We find that after all we were quite right to make the meat-safe before
killing the deer, for we only made it to hold one, and now we have
killed two, and so are quite properly behindhand with our arrangements,
and shall be obliged to make another.
After dinner Esau went down to the lake and tried a few casts from the
shore. He speedily hooked a fish, which he thought the biggest ever
made, and never got a sight of it for twenty minutes. He thought this a
grand top up for a truly successful day, but on landing it, it only
weighed a pound, but was hooked in the tail, hence the struggle.