Yet even in December there are bright days, and when in his seventieth

year the veteran orator was invited to deliver an address before the

graduates of his own college, from whose festivities he had been

excluded since the time of his Lovejoy speech, warmed with the

recollections of his youth, his genius blazed forth with all its former

brilliancy. With customary hardihood he selected for his subject "The

Danger from the Educated Classes"; that is, the tendency of intellectual

culture to exclusiveness and separation from the less fortunate portion

of mankind. It is not to be supposed that the Harvard Alumni were well

pleased with this topic, but he presented it with so much skill, and

even eloquence, as to win applause from some of his most inveterate

opponents. This sympathy for the unfortunate had been the key-note and

true explanation of his course in life. It came to him there in the days

of his youthful gayety like a dream, and now after fifty years he had

returned to celebrate his last triumph in the same place where this

vision of Heavenly mercy had appeared to him.

He looked like Cicero, and there is a bust of Cicero on the Pincian hill

at Rome, which if placed in Boston would certainly be mistaken for him.

His figure, however, was better than Cicero's, who is reported to have

had a long neck and rather slender legs. He resembled Cicero in his

refined tastes, his admiration for great writers his command of

language, his tact, fluency, fiery invective, and in the anti-climax of

his career. If he had prepared his speeches for a body of men like the

Roman senate, he might have been more nearly Cicero's equal. He used to

wear a high-crowned soft felt hat, which was remarkably suited to the

Roman-like contour of his face. He was skillful in all things, and might

have been equally celebrated as a writer, an actor, or possibly as an

artist, if his interest and inclination had led him in either of these

directions. What we feel the lack of in him is contemplative depth: he

was more Gallic than Germanic. He possessed a deep nature, but his

character was not equal to it. He was too refined, too much of an artist

perhaps, for the rough work fortune gave him to do. He had the heart of

a lion, but the mind of a woman.

Yet as we view his life from a distance it has grand outlines. When the

western continent was discovered, it seemed as if it were a paradise

which had been kept in reserve for the most civilized races; but this

had no sooner happened, than a curse was fastened upon it,--the curse of

slavery, which had already been abolished in Europe in its mildest type.

This may have been necessary at first in the tropical portions of

America, where it is impossible for a white man to labor in the sun; but

it was contrary to the spirit of Christianity and inimical to true

civilization. To eradicate this wide-spread, deep-rooted evil was a

tremendous undertaking, one of the most gigantic in history; and among

those who contributed to this, none, except perhaps John Brown and

Charles Sumner, accomplished more--and few have done so much as Wendell

Phillips. The right aspect then in which to regard his career, is as a

sacrifice to this great cause. Let it be said of him that he loved

mankind not wisely, but too well.

APPLEDORE AND THE LAIGHTONS.

The Isles of Shoals are seven: Duck, Appledore, Cedar, Haley's, Star,

Londoner's, and White. Besides these there are Square Rock, Mingo Rock,

and a number of other out-lying rocks and reefs. Appledore, Haley's,

Cedar, Star, and Londoner's form almost a semi-circle, or horse-shoe,

nearly a mile in width with the tips turned toward the west. Duck Island

lies a mile-and-a-half to the north of this group, and White Island with

it's light-house about the same distance to the south-east.

They are mostly bare rocks, like mountain tops rising above the water.

They are not however submerged mountains, for as their name indicates

the sea is nowhere very deep about them. If the points of the horse-shoe

had been turned toward the east instead of the west they would not have

been habitable and the place would have been known to navigators as the

Devil's Reef, the Devil's Horse-shoe or by some other term ominous of

shipwrecks. The group of islands now form a cosy though not very safe

harbor where every evening in the mackerel season a small fleet of

fishing-vessels sail in there to anchor for the night.

As might be expected the fauna and flora of the Shoals is neither rare

nor extensive. Gulls are to be seen of course at all times,--especially

the large burgomaster gull, one of the finest of birds in size and

ferocity, and in power of sight nearly equal to an eagle. In spring and

fall flocks of coot and the more fishy sort of ducks are to be found

there together with a good many loons. Snowy owls are not uncommon in

cold weather, and during winter almost any kind of Arctic bird may

arrive there. A flock of eider ducks once took refuge and were shot

under the same overhanging rock where the terrified servant-girl

concealed herself when pursued by the murderer Wagner. There are

probably more green snakes on Appledore than anywhere else in America.

Wild roses and morning-glories are the only flowers large enough to

attract the notice of a passing tourist, but Celia Thaxter has also

written a pretty poem on the pimpernel. There are no trees to speak of.

Their geological structure is more interesting. It is generally supposed

that the soil of New England rests on a foundation of primeval granite,

but it is not exactly that. There is very little true granite in New

England, what is taken for it commonly being syenite, a rock indeed that

differs from granite only in the substitution of hornblend for mica. The

so-called Quincy granite is a finer sort of syenite, and the White

Mountains are composed of syenite capped with granite. The Isles of

Shoals are also mostly syenite, but there are large boulders of coarse

granite lying about, and in some places the syenite changes suddenly to

granite as if the two had been welded together. Then there are dykes of

dark brown trap or ancient lava, from four to ten feet wide running

across the islands from south-west to north-east, and others again at

right-angles to these. This would seem to indicate that the elevation

above the surrounding plateau was due to volcanic action. The structure

of White Island is very different from the others, a large portion of

the rock being studded with innumerable small garnets, while veins of

some grayish white minerals run through it in which there are still

smaller garnets.

How did these bare, bleak and barren rocks come to be inhabited?

Originally it was from love of gold. Men will go wherever there is money

to be made, and wherever men go women are pretty sure to follow. In 1879

a city suddenly arose in the most desolate and uncomfortable part of the

Rocky Mountains; and in the middle of the last century there was a large

settlement on the Isles of Shoals, with a young ladies' boarding-school

at Appledore, and a fort on Star Island for protection against pirates

and Indians. Fish merchants carried on a flourishing trade with France

and Spain. In course of time however cod and haddock became largely

fished out and the settlement on Appledore disappeared with them,

boarding-school and all. So it is predicted that some day Leadville will

again become a silent wilderness. In 1850 the population of the Shoals

had dwindled to about a dozen families of poor fishermen when a fresh

impulse was given to the activity of the place from a direction that

nobody could ever have imagined.

The Laightons were residents of Portsmouth. The father of Thomas B.

Laighton was a spar-maker and did a considerable business when

shipbuilding was thriving in those times. Thomas B. in his youth was

afflicted with a fever which confined him to his room for many months

and from the effects of which he never recovered. He married Miss Eliza

Rymes, a woman of remarkable good-sense and strong physique. He

preferred journalism to spar-making, and his connection with the New

Hampshire Gazette soon led him into politics. He was an ardent supporter

of "old Hickory" and rewarded for it finally with the position of

postmaster for his native city. Whether he surrendered this position for

the forlorn and less lucrative one of White Island lighthouse on account

of ill-health or from a different motive, is uncertain. There was

formerly a story in circulation that he was defeated as a candidate for

some political office and retired in disgust from the haunts and ways of

men. This however is not likely. Thomas Laighton was a man of a blunt

and rugged sincerity, tenacious and determined; such as would not be

likely to lose his mental balance at the first unfavorable turn of

fortune.

[Illustration: TWILIGHT AT THE ISLES OF SHOALS.]

He went to White Island in 1838, was removed by Harrison the First and

reappointed by Tyler. His life there must have been a rough one. Of all

the Isles of Shoals, White Island is the most difficult of access. It is

not easy to land there in good summer weather, and during winter

communication with the outer world is as rare as cold days in July. From

December till May the breakers thunder on the cliff beneath the

light-house like the roar of artillery. One would like to know what his

reflections may have been during this Alexander Selkirk kind of

life,--how he and his wife managed to entertain themselves. Rev. John

Weiss and a friend going to Portsmouth in the summer of '46 visited the

lighthouse and made friends with the family there. They found old

Laighton a pretty rough customer, but good humored enough, and his wife

uncommonly glad to see them. Their daughter Celia was a very bright

looking, rosy faced girl, and the two boys Oscar and Cedric had their

hair cut straight across their foreheads to keep it out of their eyes.

Mr. Weiss thought that when they were in the water they must have looked

a good deal like seals.

In 1848 he resigned his position and removed to Appledore; then as

always on the charts of the coast-survey known as Hog Island. It would

seem to be the last stretch of a fisherman's imagination to call every

long sloping island by that name. There he and his brother Joseph, who

had thus far been a grocer in Portsmouth, built cottages for themselves

and went into the fishing business, purchasing boats, seines, and hiring

a large number of men. This lasted for some years and finally came to an

end through the death of Joseph and the invalidism of Thomas, who was

always lame and unable to give the work his personal supervision.

Meanwhile their friends came over from the mainland to visit them, and

admired the climate so much and remained so long that the brothers

concluded to build a small hotel where these and others could pay for

their entertainment. It was a three-story building, almost square, the

parent stem of that great banyan-tree which has since spread over a

large portion of the island. The accomodations at first were primitive.

A visitor in '51 was obliged to wait an hour for a room and an

opportunity to wash his hands, though he was at the time the only guest

in the house. An empty flour-barrel turned upside down served for a

wash-stand. However, the sailing and fishing were good, as also were

Mrs. Laighton's doughnuts, of which there was always an unfailing

supply, so that numbers of people came there.

Among them was a recent graduate of Harvard, from the vicinity of

Boston, named Levi Thaxter. He was a young man of refined tastes and

rare intellectual endowment; afterwards widely known as the apostle of

Browning's poetry in America. He was not one of those college graduates

who seemed to have been run in a mould like bullets, but already

possessed character and a mind of his own. He was by nature rather an

admirer of art than an artist; in fact he was a critic, and with a right

opportunity he might have become a Froude, a Taine, or a Ruskin. A wise

father might have done much for him, but his father belonged to that

class of men who are only acquainted with a small circle of their own

affairs; he had not the least conception of what was needed for his

brilliant son. So the best years of young Thaxter's life were consumed

in fruitless efforts to harmonize his lofty aspirations with the

stubborn facts about him. It was like a fruit-tree planted in a stone

quarry. Too late he learned from experience the wisdom that should have

come to him from his ancestors. He might have succeeded better if he had

been less unwilling to compromise his sincerity,--to duck his head to

the golden calf. But he would not do that, he intended to remain Levi

Thaxter or die in the attempt: and once he came very near doing so. He

was a romance character, and if his biography could be written it would

be more interesting than that of some of our most celebrated men.

Socially he was delightful; and a hundred friends could bear witness to

his integrity, his fidelity, his kindly nature, his wit, humor, and keen

appreciation. William Hunt the painter and Doctor Henry I. Bowditch were

his two most intimate friends.

He studied dramatic reading, and nearly made a profession of it. Actors

sometimes studied with him to learn a good pronunciation and dramatic

effect. His partiality for Browning's poetry is quite generally known.

He first read it to his friends; then in private companies; and finally

in public halls. When in 1882 he went to Philadelphia to read Browning

there he created such enthusiasm for the subject that the libraries and

bookstores were quickly exhausted and fresh copies of Browning had to be

sent for from other cities to supply the demand. He considered Browning,

Aeschylus and Shakespeare the three most dramatic writers. All the

Browning clubs that have nourished so extensively for many years past

might be considered Levi Thaxter's lineal descendants.

His conversation on art and literature was often so interesting that it

is a pity his occasional bursts of eloquence could not have been

preserved. But the important matter at this moment is that he fell in

love with Celia Laighton, married her and carried her off to the

environs of Boston, where she made valuable friends and met with larger

opportunities for intellectual development.

Hawthorne came to the Shoals on the thirtieth of August, 1852, and has

given a full account of his visit in his usual minute and pictorial

manner. He left Franklin Pierce, who was then candidate for the

presidency, in Concord, New Hampshire, and embarked at Portsmouth in a

small schooner which was then the only mode of conveyance,---and often a

very dilatory one. On the way two of his fellow passengers became

sea-sick, and another "sat in the stern looking very white." On arriving

at Appledore he was met in the doorway by Mr. Laighton of whom he gives

rather a realistic description; adding, however, "He addressed me in a

hearty, hospitable tone, and judging that it must be my landlord, I

delivered a letter of introduction from Pierce, which of course gave me

the best the house afforded."

It seems strange that Hawthorne, who understood human nature better than

any other American writer, should have so rarely penetrated into the

character of the people whom he mentions in his note-books. Old Laighton

was a solid rock of sense and grit, and the chief impression he made

upon strangers was of a man whom it was best to keep on the right side

of. The detonations of his frankness sometimes cleared the air in a

truly remarkable manner, and would scatter all light spirits to a

prudent distance. He reminded one of Longfellow's description of Simon

Danz:

"Restless at times with heavy strides

He paces his parlor to and fro;

He is like a ship that at anchor rides,

And swings with the rising and falling tides,

And tugs at her anchor-tow."

Hawthorne seems to have found a kindred spirit in Mr. Thaxter, who

invited him to their cottage to meet the ladies and drink apple-jack.

There he also found John Weiss, a man of wit and genius little inferior

to his own. Neither did Celia Thaxter impress him, except in a rather

external way. He says, "We found Mrs. Thaxter sitting in a neat little

parlor, very simply furnished, but in good taste. She is not now, I

believe, more than eighteen years old, very pretty, and with the manners

of a lady,--not prim and precise, but with enough of freedom and ease."

The ideality in her face, which probably attracted her husband and is

visible in her earliest pictures, was not observed by the idealist

himself. He spent the next two weeks in company with Mr. Thaxter,

roaming about on the water, visiting different islands, and conversing

with the inhabitants. It must have been a rare occasion for young

Thaxter, and Hawthorne for once found a companion who could either be

silent or talk in an interesting manner. Hawthorne's account of it would

suffice as a guide-book for the Shoals. He tells the story of Betty

Moody, who was said to have concealed herself with her baby in a sort of

cave on Star Island in order to escape from the Indians who had made a

raid on the place while her husband was fishing out at sea. Unhappily

the child screamed, and the wretched mother is said to have murdered it

to prevent discovery. How the other wives and mothers on the island

saved themselves at this juncture is not reported; and the myth no doubt

originated from a dark red lichen growing on the rocks there which

resembles blood-stains and has a scientific name to that effect.

Much more probable is the tradition that a large heap of stones formed

like an Esquimaux hut on the highest point of Appledore, was built there

by Captain John Smith and his men as a memorial of their discovery of

the islands. This heap of stones is a veritable cairn, such as climbers

of the Alps build on the summits of those peaks which they have ascended

for the first time. It is customary in such cases to insert a champagne

bottle among the stones, containing the card of the fortunate explorer;

but perhaps Captain Smith was not provided with these articles while

cruising off the coast of North America. It is at least more interesting

and more in keeping with the rugged aspect of the place than the

delicate triangular plinth that has been erected to his memory on Star

Island. Another poetic subject is the Spaniards' graves on Smutty Nose:

hapless mariners, wrecked where no friendly or kindred eye will look on

the cold stones which mark their interment!

Eleven years elapsed before Hawthorne visited the Shoals again, and for

the last time in his life. Meanwhile much had changed there. The hotel

had grown by the addition of a large dormitory; and the boys, Oscar and

Cedric, had grown up with it to be vigorous and very healthy looking

young men. The Hon. Thomas P. Laighton had become a confirmed invalid;

nor did he live very long after this time. The management of the

property was wholly in the hands of his sons. Mrs. Thaxter had grown to

a bright, self-possessed woman with three small boys to look after, and

with her reputation as a poet now well assured to her both by critics

and the general public. Her face, figure and manner all gave evidence of

a concentrated personality. Her husband, a handsome and full-bearded

man, was now in the prime of life and intellectual vigor. Rev. John

Weiss, their never-failing friend and a constant habitue of the place,

had written the life of Theodore Parker, and received due recognition as

a gifted man and elegant speaker. And there was another, more

distinguished than them all,--a tall figure, more erect than a soldier,

pacing across the long piazza, or watching a game in the billiard-room,

or seated in a retired corner of Mrs. Thaxter's parlor, whose face had

long since been known to Hawthorne as that of John G. Whittier.

Social life at the Shoals has had its incipient childhood, its period of

youthful strength and gaiety, its bright noontide of maturity, and seems

now to be lapsing into a serene and comfortable old age. Many, at least,

of the brilliant men and women who made it what it was, are gone, and

others do not appear to take their places. The Isles of Shoals are

changing as all things change except the rocks and sea. The

south-easterly parlor in Mrs. Thaxter's cottage is historic ground.

"There have been fine people here," she said one day in September, about

ten years ago, as the house was closing for the season, "but the summer

is gone, and they have gone with it." Nowhere else since Margaret

Fuller's time have so many wits, geniuses and brilliant women been

gathered together. Whittier and Hawthorne are enough to have consecrated

it, but there have been many others. Hunt, the painter, came there, and

Professor Paine, the composer, as well as other fine artists and

musicians. Even Ole Bull, that Norwegian waif and celebrated violinist,

wandered in there of a forenoon, and entertained the company with

accounts of sea-serpents standing on their tails in front of

water-falls, and other marvels only visible in Norway:--supposing, I

presume, that his hearers would believe anything that he told them.

Mrs. Thaxter's poetry, like all genuine poetry, is indigenous,--native

to the soil. She has taken her subjects from the life and incidents

about her: the little sand-piper, the burgomaster gull, the pimpernel,

and the wreck on White Island--where a vessel was once wrecked in a

dense fog right under the light-house. [Footnote: In the winter of 1876,

centennial year, a schooner laden with salt somehow ran on to the

southerly reef of White Island and lost its rudder. The vessel

consequently became unmanageable, and was finally thrown up on

Londoner's, where the island is so low that at high tide the sea nearly

divides it in two. The crew tried to escape by jumping on to the rocks.

Only three succeeded in doing this, the captain, the cabin-boy and one

sailor, A tremendous wave washed over them, and when it had subsided the

sailor found himself alone. Fortunately he knew where he was, and by

clinging flat to the rocks, like a starfish, and watching his chances,

he succeeded after a time in reaching a point of safety. But no sooner

was he fairly out of the water than his clothes became a mass of ice.

There is a rude, unplastered house on Londoner's. The door was fastened,

but he broke through it with a blow of his foot, then wiping his hands

as well as he could on the rough boards, he felt along the first

transverse beam-joist until, to his great delight, he came upon some

matches. These saved his life, for there can be no doubt that otherwise

he would have been frozen to death before morning. There was a stove in

the house, and even a few sticks of wood. For kindling-wood he tore off

splinters from the edges of the boards. He could see nothing within the

house, and it is said that after his fire was lighted, he had only one

match left. Next morning people on Haley's Island saw the wreck and the

smoke from his fire, and went to his rescue.

Mrs. Rymes is authority for the statement that White Island was not

called so from its color, but from a family of Whites who lived on it

before the light-house was built, and that the miser White who was

murdered by Crowninshield in Salem was born on that island.]

[Illustration: CELIA THAXTER. FROM A PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN IN 1890.]

[Illustration: DAVID A. WASSON. FROM A PORTRAIT BY HIS SON GEORGE,

TAKEN IN 1878.]

She made the best use of her material, which after all is much the same

as Emerson's, with the difference between a barren island and a

well-wooded country town taken into account. Another difference is that

she looks at her subject objectively, and then treats it subjectively;

whereas Emerson does exactly the reverse. It is like the difference

between Schiller and Goethe, or Longfellow and Browning; and is the

manner in which a poet always must write in order to be popular. Her

verses are graceful, refined, and--as they should be--feminine. Yet

there is a good deal of strength in it also: or if the phrase is

permissible, a good deal of back-bone.

Her style reminds one of Whittier, but is sufficiently original.

Sometimes she escapes from concrete things into abstract subjects; and

her short poem on "Heroism" seems to me the best she ever wrote. There

was formerly a strong prejudice against this kind of poetry, but it

seems to be disappearing. Those of her poems which Whittier included in

his collection of English and American poetry are also fine, and may be

said to deserve their place. Her criticism was better than is usually

the case with poets; and her conversation about authors and literature

always interesting. It was not didactic at all, but frank, spontaneous

and open to correction. She liked the most diverse writers; Tennyson,

and Dickens, and Browning. In early years I remember her speaking of

Hawthorne in a tone of veneration; but later in life she preferred

Emerson, even to Whittier. There was formerly a portrait of Goethe in

her parlor with Emerson's lines about him underneath it, copied in her

own picturesque hand-writing.

Sketches from Concord and Appledore Concord thirty years ago; Nathaniel Hawthorne; Louisa M. Alcott; Ralph Waldo Emerson; Matthew Arnold; David A. Wasson; Wendell Phillips; Appledore and its visitors; John Greenleaf Whittier · 第 12 / 15 段