CHAPTER VII

THE GYPSY IN EUROPE

§ 1. _The Gypsy in Hungary_

The Czigany, as they are called, appeared early in the fifteenth

century, and were supposed to have fled from Moghol persecution. King

Sigismund, father of the heroic John Hunyadi,[206] allowed them to

settle in his realm, and the law called them “mere peasants.” In 1496

Bishop Sigismund at Funf-Kirchen ordered iron cannon-balls from the

Gypsies to be used against the Turkish invaders of Hungary; and he was

doughtily supported against the Turks by King Zindelo, Dukes Miguel and

Andrew, by Counts Manuel and Juan, by the “noble knight” Pedro, and by

the chief Tomas Polgar.

The reforms of 1848 found them in a state of slavery, _adscripti

glebœ_, who could not legally take service away from their birthplace.

Their condition was worse than that of the Wallach peasant, who says

of his haughty Magyar Magnate, “A lord is a lord born in hell.” Some

forty years ago Mr. Paget[207] says Gypsies were exposed for sale in

the neighbouring province of Wallachia. In the Hungary of the bad old

_régime_ the relation of the landowning peasant, however oppressive

might have been his obligations, was never that of master and slave. If

the agriculturist chose to give up his _session-lands_, the ground he

occupied by hereditary use, he could go where he pleased. Practically

this was rare; it was equivalent to giving up his means of subsistence,

and he preferred the tax-paying while all the nobles went free, and the

odious burden of the “Robot” _corvée_, or forced labour, two and in

some cases three days a week. Hence he hated the military conscription,

the only means of civilizing him established by Austria in 1849.[208]

But the Czigany, however deep-rooted is his love of liberty, never

preserved the modicum of freedom to which the Hungarian clung.

Though now legally free, the Czigany’s deep respect for everything

aristocratic attaches him to the ruling caste. In Transylvania “Magyar”

is a distinctive term for class as well as race. The Czigany who do

not assimilate with the thrifty Saxons prefer to be mere hangers-on at

the castle of the Hungarian Magnate, as in England of old they take

his name; and they profess the same faith--Catholic, Protestant, or

nothing. Notwithstanding their incurable propensity for pilfering,

they are trusted as messengers and carriers; like the old Spanish

_arriero_, they form a general “parcels-delivery company.” And they

are ubiquitous, for never a door is left unlocked lest a Gypsy will

slip in and steal. In old days they were most efficient spies upon

Christian and Muslim, and they trimmed between the twain to their own

advantage. They also made the best of smugglers; they dug for treasure,

and they washed for _paillettes_ of gold the Transylvanian affluents

of the Danube. At times they set out upon plundering excursions,

which extended to Italy, France, and Spain. They are still accused of

incendiarism by the Wallachs, who apparently thus seek to hide the

malpractices resulting from their inordinate lust of revenge, the ugly

survival of the savage character. These people forget that “curses,

like chickens, come home to roost,” and will play with fire even when

it damages themselves.

The settled Gypsy’s dwelling is even more primitive than the Wallachs.

The hut is formed, like the African’s, with plaited sticks, and

swish is plastered into the gaps. Before the hut entrance often

stands the nomad cart, two wheeled and tilted, and always stands the

tripod supporting the iron pot--a sight, like the scarlet cloak, once

familiar to us, but now disappeared from England. In time the earth

is grass-grown; and as the hovel is rarely more than seven feet high,

it looks rather like an exaggerated ant-hill or a tumulus than a

habitation for man. Yet the ragged inmate, whose children go about in

nature’s garb, is clever with his hands. He is the best blacksmith in

the country, and he fashions simple wooden articles for household use

with dexterity and even with taste. Despite his wretched surroundings,

he keeps his good spirits, he sings to his work, and he plays the

violin in his leisure hours.

I need hardly repeat the commonplaces about the music of the Hungarian

Gypsy, and the legends concerning Catalani and Liszt. Strolling bands,

in civilized attire, and performing upon divers instruments, are and

have been for some time well known to the capitals of Europe. So great

is the contrast between their art and their surroundings, that more

than one traveller has suspected this marvellous gift of pathetic

strains to be a “language brought with them in their exile from another

and a higher state of existence.” I find in it only the marriage of

Eastern with Western melody, the high science of the former, so little

appreciated by the ignorant Anglo-Indian, with the perfect practice of

the latter.

Though utterly unalphabetic, these people have a strange power of

stirring their hearers’ hearts. They play by ear, in style unsurpassed

by the best training, the violin, the ’cello, and the zither, with

which London is now familiarized. The airs, often their own, tell a

thrilling national tale in a way that makes an indelible impression

upon the stranger. Now it is the expression of turmoil, battle, and

defeat, followed by a long wail of woe, of passionate grief, mostly in

the minor key. Then it suddenly passes to the major in a wild burst of

joy, of triumph, of exultation, of rapture, which carries along with it

the hearer in irresistible sympathy. It has all the charm of contrast;

of extremes, excitement and depression; subjection and deliverance,

delight and despair. The strains rob the excitable Hungarian of his

reason; he drinks in the music till he is drunk.

The Gypsy is capable of a noble self-sacrifice, and Mr. Crosse tells

a tale which proves it. He passed in a wild, romantic glen a steep,

overhanging rock known throughout the land as the “Gypsy’s stone.”

About the middle of the last century, it is supposed, there was a

famine; and the Czigany, poorer than their neighbours, were reduced to

beg or starve. When turned away by certain hard-hearted villagers, one

poor fellow refused to go, declaring that his children were dying of

hunger. “Then,” said one of the boors in a mocking tone, “I will give

your family a side of bacon, if you will jump from that rock.” “You

hear his promise!” cried the Czigan, appealing to the crowd. Without

another word he rushed from amongst them, clambered up the rock, and

took the leap, which was--death.

This is exactly what we might expect under the circumstances from a

Hindu. The system of _Badli_--in plain English, paying a man to “take

blame” and to be hanged for you--is the best proof.

It should be remembered that a Hungarian was the first to publish the

“Indic origin” of the Romani tongue. At the end of 1765 an interesting

_communiqué_ was addressed to the _Vienna Gazette_ by Captain Szekely

de Doba. He related that the Protestant parson Stephen Vali while

studying at Leyden made acquaintance with certain Malabar youths sent

there by the Dutch Government, and their vernacular reminded him of

the Gypsy tongue which he had heard in his home at Almasch. They also

assured him that in Malabar there is a district called _Zigania_ (?),

which suggested a comparison with the German Zigeuner. At their

dictation he wrote down almost a thousand words, and returning to

Almasch he was surprised to find the Czigan understanding them.

Then set in the first period (1775-1800) of Sanskrit and Zend study,

accompanied by publications of Bengali, Urdu, and others of the

eighteen Prakrit tongues still spoken in the great Peninsula. This led

to careful study of Romani. The celebrated Mezzofanti did not hesitate

to assign it high rank amongst the thirty-two languages he had studied;

and when he lost his mind (1832) he never confounded it with other

idioms. Then followed in 1837 the _Gospel of St. Luke_ translated into

Spanish _Caló_ by “Gypsy Borrow,” who, however, inserted Castilian

words from Father Scio instead of forming them from Gypsy roots.

§ 2. _The Gypsies of Spain._

We have ample material for studying the Spanish Gypsy, or Flamanco,

as he is contemptuously called, probably because he entered Andalusia

in the train of the Flemings during the first third of the fifteenth

century. Yet it is somewhat remarkable that Europe believed up to the

end of that century the purely Spanish origin of the Gypsies.

Pasquier, describing the arrival of these “penitents” in Paris A.D.

1427, adds that from that time all France was infested by these

vagabonds, but that the first horde was replaced by the Biscayan and

other peoples of the same origin. This suggests an early occupation

of the Peninsula; although Francisca de Cordova in his _Didasculia_

declared they were first known in Germany, and the general belief now

is that the last horde entered Europe by the highroads of Andalusia and

Bulgaria, or rather Greece, and they must have been settled for many

years in these countries.

Northern Spaniards find in Andalusian blood a distinct Gypsy

innervation.

In Spain, as elsewhere, the Gypsy made himself hated by his systematic

contempt of the laws of _meum_ and _teum_; whilst he was protected

by two widely different conditions: the first was his poverty (“As

poor as a Gypsy” is still a proverb); secondly, he was a spy equally

useful to Christian and unbeliever. Yet action was not wanting. In

1499 was published the Gran Pragmatica (Royal Ordinance) of Medina

del Campo, under the influence of a fanatic archbishop, banishing on

and after the term of sixty days the Egyptian and foreign tinkers

(_caldereros_), and forbidding return under pain of mutilation. This

Pragmatica was renewed under Charles V. by the Cortes of Toledo and of

Madrid, with the additional punishment of perpetual slavery for those

found wandering a third time. Yet in 1560, on his marriage at Toledo

with Isabelle of France, Gypsy dances formed part of the festivities.

He was comparatively mild, and after moderating the old rigorous

laws he ordered the outcasts to live in towns. In 1586 the same king

allowed them to sell their goods at ten fairs and markets under certain

conditions.

These nomads picked up information from all classes, and the women,

with their black magic, sorcery, and devilry, palmistry, love-potions,

and poisons, penetrated into every secret. The Holy Office, established

in January, 1481, disdained to persecute such paupers; and the strong

arm of the law could not do more than hang a few witches. Ticknor

remarks: “Encouraged by the expulsion of the Jews in 1492, also by that

of the Moors in 1609-11, Dr. Sancho de Moncada, a professor in the

University of Toledo, addressed Philip III. in a discourse published in

1619, urging that monarch to drive out the Gypsies, but he failed.”

Another authority says that he himself, 1618, had prepared a memorial

to that effect, adding, “It is very vicious to tolerate such a

pernicious and perverse race.” Cordova, writing in 1615, accused them

of preparing, some years before, an organized attack upon Sogrovo

town when the pest raged, and declares that it was saved from such by

the arts of a certain wizard who had mysterious relations with the

vagabonds.

The charges of cannibalism became universal, founded probably upon the

fact that Gypsies do not disdain the flesh of animals poisoned by them.

That many of the persecuted outcasts were compelled to fly the country

we shall see presently in the Morerias of Brazil; and when religious

zeal cooled down, political interests took its place, and led to the

great legal persecution. Philip IV. in 1633 prohibited the Gypsy

dress and dialect, expelled them from the Ghettos, and by rendering

intermarriage illegal aimed at fusing the vagrants with other subjects.

In 1692 Charles II. ordered them to practise nothing but agriculture.

The decree was renewed in 1695, and article 16 threatened punishment to

all, gentle and simple, who aided and abetted them. Philip V. in 1726

banished from Madrid certain Gypsy women who had petitioned in favour

of their persecuted husbands. Nineteen years afterwards (1745) he

ordered the fugitives to return to his dominions under pain of fire and

steel, denying to them even the right of asylum in sacred places. This

terrible decree was renewed in 1746-49.

Better days now began to dawn. The racial hatred and brutality suffered

by the Gypsies became by slow degrees to be considered the abrogations

of past ages. Already, in 1783, Don Carlos of Spain followed the

Emperor Joseph of Germany, 1782, and revoked the ultra-Draconian laws

which aimed at the extinction of a people, and substituted decrees

contrasting strongly with the Pragmatica of 1499; he even threatened

pains and penalties to those who hindered the Gypsies in their

occupations. In fact, the Gitano, no longer the Egipciano, was allowed

intermarriage with his caste, his family rights were recognized, and he

was allowed to choose his own trade. He was forbidden only to wear any

special dress, to display his language in public, or to exercise the

ignoble parts of his calling. Briefly, after having been for centuries

of persecution a social pariah, he became a subject. The change must

be attributed only to the French philosophical school, and the works

of the encyclopedists, which presently led to the greatest benefits

of modern ages, the first French Revolution of 1789. It made men and

citizens where it found serfs and slaves.

These humanitarian measures bore their natural consequences. Under the

effect of toleration the Gypsies lost much of the savage wildness which

distinguished them in the depths of the Toledo Mountains, the Sierra

Morena, and the wild Alpujarras. They flocked to the valleys of the

Ebro, the Tagus, and the Guadiana, where many, waxing rich and caring

little for a community of goods, lost much of their devotion to caste

and their fear and horror of their Christian fellow-citizens. And the

grey-beards did not fail to complain that the Zincálo was speedily

becoming a Gacho or a Busno, opprobrious terms applied to non-Gypsies.

The Gitanos of Spain are supposed to number from fifty to sixty

thousand, and the increased toleration of society is rapidly

concentrating them into the great towns. They abound in Madrid, Cadiz,

Malaga, Granada, Cordova, Ciudad Real, Murcia, Valencia, Barcelona,

Pamplona, Valladolid, and Badajoz. In parts of Upper Aragon and the

Alpujarras Mountains they are troglodytes rather than nomad hordes.

Even in the northern provinces, Old Castile, Asturias, and Galicia,

where they formerly were most hated and feared, they are now freely

allowed to settle. A complete assimilation is expected from the

position which they have acquired in places like Cadiz and Malaga. They

are beginning to educate themselves in a country where hardly 20 per

cent. can read, and where a grandee of the last generation was a kind

of high-caste _chalan_ (horse-cooper) or _torero_ (bull-fighter)--the

Gitano’s peculiar trades. Though they preserve the Gypsy tradition,

some of them traffic largely in cattle and own extensive butcheries;

they keep inns and taverns; they deal with the chief merchants; and

they live in luxury. Gitanos of the poorer classes buy and barter

animals; act jockeys and race-riders; people the bull-ring (especially

in Andalusia); work nails and ironmongery, as at Granada and Cordova;

and plait the coloured baskets for which Murcia, Valencia, and

Barcelona are famous. Their women sell poultry and old rags; prepare

buns (_buñuelos_) and black puddings (_morcillas de sangre_); engage

themselves as tavern cooks; are excellent smugglers; and find in

interpreting dreams, in philter-selling, and in fortune-telling the

most lucrative industries. They sing and play various instruments,

accompanying the music with the most voluptuous and licentious

dances and attitudes; but woe to the man who would obtain from these

Bayaderes any boon beyond their provocative exhibition. From the Indus

to Gibraltar the contrast of obscenity in language and in songs with

corporal chastity--a lacha ye drupo, “body shame,” as they term it--has

ever been a distinctive characteristic. No brothel in Europe can boast

of containing a Gypsy woman.[209] The mother carefully watches and

teaches her child to preserve the premices for the Rom, the Gypsy

husband. At marriages they preserve the old Jewish and Muslim rite,

that disappeared from Spain only with the accession of the house of

Austria. Even Isabella of Castile, when she was married at Valladolid

to Ferdinand of Aragon, allowed her “justificative proofs” to be

displayed before the wedding-guest. Gypsy marriages, like those of the

high-caste Hindus, entail ruinous expense; the revelry lasts three

days; the “Gentile” is freely invited; and the profusion of meats and

drinks often makes the bridegroom a debtor for life. I have explained

this practice in Hindustan as the desire to prove that the first

marriage is _the_ marriage.

The Spanish Gypsies are remarkable for beauty in early youth: for

magnificent eyes and hair, regular features, light and well-knit

figures, easy gait, and graceful bearing. Their locks, like the Hindus,

are lamp-black, and without a sign of wave; and they preserve the

characteristic eye. The form is perfect, and it has an especial look to

which is attributed the power of engendering _grandes passions_--one

of the privileges of the eye. I have often remarked its fixity and

brilliance, which flashes like phosphoric light, the gleam which in

some eyes denotes madness. I have also noted the “far-off look” which

seems to gaze at something beyond you, and the alternation from the

fixed stare to a glazing or filming over of the pupil.[210] Hence the

English song:

A Gypsy stripling’s glossy (?) eye

Has pierced my bosom’s core,

A feat no eye beneath the sky

Could e’er effect before.

And in Spain it is remarked that the Gypsy man often makes a conquest

of the Busno’s wife.

The women are more voluble in language and licentious in manners

than the men. These characteristics, combined with the most absolute

repulsion for other favours, even to the knife, explain how many sons

of grandees and great officials took part in the nightly orgies and

by day favoured the proscribed caste. Moreover, the Gitana protected

herself by the possession of family secrets. Besides soothsaying

and philter-selling, she had a store of the _Raiz del buen Baron_

(the goodman’s, _i.e._ the devil’s, root), alias Satan’s herb, which

relieved incommodious burdens. At fairs, while the husbands were

chapping and chaffering, the good-wives made money by the process

called _coger á la mano_ (to catch in hand); that is, pilfering coins

by sleight during the process of exchanging. Amongst other malpractices

is one called in Romani _Youjano báro_ (the great trick), translated

_gran socaliña_ (great trick) by Jermimo de Alcalá in his novel the

_Historia de Alonzo, mozo de muchos amos_ (a youth with many uncles),

written in the early seventeenth century. Rich and covetous widows were

persuaded to deposit jewels and money in dark and unfrequented places,

with the idea of finding buried treasure. Useless to say that the Gypsy

woman was the only gainer by the transaction.

We read that the old Gypsy dress was repeatedly forbidden by law; but

Spanish tradition preserves no memory of what the dress was. I have

little doubt that the immigrants of the fifteenth century had retained

to some extent the Hindu costume, the Pagrí (head-cloth) and the Dhoti

(waist-cloth). So in Moscow I have seen the Gypsy dancing-girls assume

the true toilette of the Hindustani Nachni, the Choli, or bodice, and

the Peshwáz, or petticoat of many folds. Some writers imagine that the

“picturesque vagabonds,” Calós, had borrowed their peculiar garb from

the Moors.

In these days the well-to-do Spanish Rom affects the Andalusian

costume, more or less rich. He delights in white linen, especially

the “biled shirt,” often frilled and embroidered. The materials are

linen and cotton, silk, plush, velvet, and broadcloth. The favourite

tints are blue, red, and marking colours. The short jacket or pelisse

(_zamarra_) is embroidered and adorned with frogs (_alamares_) or large

silver buttons; the waistcoat is mostly red, and a sash of crimson

silk with fringed ends supports the waist; the overalls narrow at

the ankle, where they meet boots or buskins (_borcegúies_), slippers

or sandals (_alpargatas_). Finally, the long lank locks, which hang

somewhat like the Polish Jew’s along the cheeks, are crowned with the

Gypsy _sombrero_ or porkpie, and sometimes with the red Catalan _gorro_

(bonnet), not unlike the glengarry.

The Romi also has retained the dress worn till lately in Andalusia,

and now gradually becoming obsolete. The gleaming hair is gathered in

a Diana knot at the neck, and lit up with flowers of the gaudiest hue;

it lies in bands upon the temples, and the whole is often covered with

an embroidered kerchief. A cloak of larger or lesser dimensions thrown

over the shoulders hardly conceals the bodice and the short, skimpy

petticoat (_saya_), which is embroidered, adorned with bunches of

ribbons, trimmings, and other cheap finery.

The Spanish Gypsies have not preserved, like the Hungarian, their

old habit of long expeditions for begging and plundering purposes.

Consequently they have lost the practice of the _Pateran_ or _Trail_,

the road-marks by which they denote direction. These are fur twigs, or

similar heaps of newly gathered grass disposed at short distances. At

cross-roads the signs are placed on the right side of that followed.

Sometimes they trace upon the ground a cross whose longer arm shows

the way, or they nail one stake to another. The Norwegian Gypsies

trace with their whips a mark on the snow called Faano; it resembles

a sack with a shut mouth. In the course of ages they have lost that

marvellous power of following the _spoor_ which their kinsmen on the

Indus preserve to perfection. They retain a peculiarly shrill whistle,

for which the Guanches were famous. By the signs and the whistles two

parties could communicate with each other; and if anything particular

occurred, messengers were sent to report it.

The Gypsy language was looked upon as a mere conventional jargon, and

its Indian origin, as has been shown elsewhere, was not recognized

before the middle of last century. It was, moreover, confounded with

the Germania (Thieves’ Latin), whose vocabulary, collected by Juan

Hidalgo of Saragona, has found its way into the _Diccionario de la

Academia_. The only Gypsy words it contains are those borrowed from

the Caló by the bullies and ruffians of the days of Quevedo. Many

corruptions and barbarisms, however, have been introduced into books

by pseudo-literati of “white blood,” who prided themselves upon their

knowledge of Romani. For instance, Meriden means Coral; and as in

Spanish reduplication of the consonant changes the word, an inventor,

in order to express Corral (Curral, Kraal, cattle-yard), produced the

most barbarous term Merridden. This was the work of _aficionados_

(fanciers) like the Augustine friar Manso de Sevilla in the Cartuja

or Carthusian convent of Jirez, whose famous breed of horses brought

them into direct communication with the Gypsies. Happily, however,

the language was spoken, not written; and thus, as Mr. Buckle held of

legend and tradition, its purity was preserved.

Gypsy verse is generally improvised to the twanging and tapping of the

guitar, sometimes to the guitar and castanet, and oftentimes without

music. Much that has been printed appears to be of that spurious kind

unintelligible to the Gypsies themselves. The favourite form is in

quartettes, more or less carefully rhymed; they are impressed upon the

hearers’ memory; and thus they pass from mouth to mouth throughout

Spain. Borrow gives a few translations of Gypsy songs in Romani. The

Cantes Flamancos of Demófico, in phonetic Andalusian, chanted at the

fairs and markets, in the cafés and ventas, the streets and alleys of

Seville, date from the last century. The poetry is weak, the moral is

not always irreproachable; but the sentiment is strong and touching.

These Cantes are sung by many a tailor and many a barber who have not

a drop of Gypsy blood in their veins. They can hardly be accepted as

genuine Gypsy work.

FOOTNOTES:

[206] Hence probably the Hungarian Hunyadis are popularly supposed to

have Gypsy blood. John’s mother (A.D. 1400) is said to have been a

fair Wallach, Elizabeth Marsinai, possibly of Romani blood. The legend

of the boy recovering his unknown father’s ring from a plundering

jackdaw, his appearance at Buda, and his receiving the gift of Hunyad

town and sixty villages, is well known. The Turk’s bell was first heard

in invaded Hungary during the reign of Sigismund. John Hunyadi drove

them from Servia and Bosnia, and vainly proposed a league of Christian

powers. When Corvinus passed away after a reign of forty-two years, the

lieges said of him, and still say, “King Matthias is dead, and Justice

died with him.”

[207] _Hungary and Transylvania_, 1839. Before 1848 the Church, the

State, and the nobles were the only landowners; the peasant, however,

had leave to occupy certain tracts (_session-lands_) under his lord.

[208] Mr. Andrew F. Crosse, _Round about the Carpathians_ (Blackwoods,

1878), declares (p. 146) that this “conscription was enforced with

every species of official brutality.” Austria was dealing with a

conquered and a peculiar, stiff-necked people. Lord Palmerston’s hatred

of Austria was, we are told, the best passport to Hungarian sympathy.

[209] The brothels of Buda-Pesth and other large cities of

Austro-Hungary have often one Gypsy woman among their inmates.

[210] I find my opinion confirmed by an older observer: “The

peculiarity of the Gypsy eye consists chiefly in a strange, staring

expression, which, to be understood, must be seen, and in a thin glaze

which steals over it when in repose, and seems to emit phosphoric

light” (_The Gypsies_, by Samuel Roberts).

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