White-Back, Canard Cheval, (New Orleans,) Bull-Neck, and Red-Headed
Bull-Neck, are common names of the famous Canvas-Back, which nests from
the northern states, northward to Alaska. Its range is throughout nearly
all of North America, wintering from the Chesapeake southward to
Guatemala.
"The biography of this duck," says Mabel Osgood Wright, "belongs rather
to the cook-book than to a bird list," even its most learned biographers
referring mainly to its "eatable qualities," Dr. Coues even taking away
its character in that respect when he says "there is little reason for
squealing in barbaric joy over this over-rated and generally under-done
bird; not one person in ten thousand can tell it from any other duck on
the table, and only then under the celery circumstances," referring to
the particular flavor of its flesh, when at certain seasons it feeds on
vallisneria, or "water celery," which won its fame. This is really not
celery at all, but an eel-grass, not always found through the range of
the Canvas-Back. When this is scarce it eats frogs, lizards, tadpoles,
fish, etc., so that, says Mrs. Osgood, "a certificate of residence
should be sold with every pair, to insure the inspiring flavor."
The opinion held as to the edible qualities of this species varies
greatly in different parts of the country. No where has it so high a
reputation as in the vicinity of Chesapeake Bay, where the alleged
superiority of its flesh is ascribed to the abundance of "water celery."
That this notion is erroneous is evident from the fact that the same
plant grows in far more abundance in the upper Mississippi Valley, where
also the Canvas-Back feeds on it. Hence it is highly probable that
fashion and imagination, or perhaps a superior style of cooking and
serving, play a very important part in the case. In California, however,
where the "water celery" does not grow, the Canvas-Back is considered a
very inferior bird for the table.
It has been hunted on Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries with such
inconsiderate greed that its numbers have been greatly reduced, and many
have been driven to more southern waters.
In and about Baltimore, the Canvas-Back, like the famous terrapin, is in
as high favor for his culinary excellence, as are the women for beauty
and hospitality. To gratify the healthy appetite of the human animal
this bird was doubtless sent by a kind Providence, none the less mindful
of the creature comforts and necessities of mankind than of the purely
aesthetic senses.
[Illustration: From col. F. M. Woodruff.
CANVAS-BACK DUCK.]
[Illustration: From col. F. M. Woodruff.
WOOD DUCK.]