CHAPTER XIX

ON BARNET BATTLE-FIELD

In England, as elsewhere, every historic spot is occupied; and of course

it sometimes happens, at such a spot, that its association is marred and

its sentiment almost destroyed by the presence of the persons and the

interests of to-day. The visitor to such places must carry with him not

only knowledge and sensibility but imagination and patience. He will not

find the way strewn with roses nor the atmosphere of poetry ready-made

for his enjoyment. That atmosphere, indeed, for the most

part--especially in the cities--he must himself supply. Relics do not

robe themselves for exhibition. The Past is utterly indifferent to its

worshippers. All manner of little obstacles, too, will arise before the

pilgrim, to thwart him in his search. The mental strain and

bewilderment, the inevitable physical weariness, the soporific influence

of the climate, the tumult of the streets, the frequent and

disheartening spectacle of poverty, squalor, and vice, the capricious

and untimely rain, the inconvenience of long distances, the ill-timed

arrival and consequent disappointment, the occasional nervous sense of

loneliness and insecurity, the inappropriate boor, the ignorant,

garrulous porter, the extortionate cabman, and the jeering

bystander--all these must be regarded with resolute indifference by him

who would ramble, pleasantly and profitably, in the footprints of

English history. Everything depends, in other words, upon the eyes with

which you observe and the spirit which you impart. Never was a keener

truth uttered than in the couplet of Wordsworth--

"Minds that have nothing to confer

Find little to perceive."

To the philosophic stranger, however, even this prosaic occupancy of

historic places is not without its pleasurable, because humorous,

significance. Such an observer in England will sometimes be amused as

well as impressed by a sudden sense of the singular incidental position

into which--partly through the lapse of years, and partly through a

peculiarity of national character--the scenes of famous events, not to

say the events themselves, have gradually drifted. I thought of this one

night, when, in Whitehall Gardens, I was looking at the statue of James

the Second, and a courteous policeman came up and silently turned the

light of his bull's-eye upon the inscription. A scene of more

incongruous elements, or one suggestive of a more serio-comic contrast,

could not be imagined. I thought of it again when standing on the

village green near Barnet, and viewing, amid surroundings both pastoral

and ludicrous, the column which there commemorates the defeat and death

of the great Earl of Warwick, and, consequently, the final triumph of

the Grown over the last of the Barons of England.

It was toward the close of a cool summer day, and of a long drive

through the beautiful hedgerows of sweet and verdurous Middlesex, that I

came to the villages of Barnet and Hadley, and went over the field of

King Edward's victory,--that fatal glorious field, on which Gloster

showed such resolute valour, and where Neville, supreme and magnificent

in disaster, fought on foot, to make sure that himself might go down in

the stormy death of all his hopes. More than four hundred years have

drifted by since that misty April morning when the star of Warwick was

quenched in blood, and ten thousand men were slaughtered to end the

strife between the Barons and the Crown; yet the results of that

conflict are living facts in the government of England now, and in the

fortunes of her inhabitants. If you were unaware of the solid simplicity

and proud reticence of the English character,--leading it to merge all

its shining deeds in one continuous fabric of achievement, like jewels

set in a cloth of gold,--you might expect to find this spot adorned with

a structure of more than common splendour. What you actually do find

there is a plain monument, standing in the middle of a common, at the

junction of several roads,--the chief of which are those leading to

Hatfield and St. Albans, in Hertfordshire,--and on one side of this

column you may read, in letters of faded black, the comprehensive

statement that "Here was fought the famous battle between Edward the

Fourth and the Earl of Warwick, April 14th, anno 1471, in which the Earl

was defeated and slain."[1]

[1] The words "stick no bills" have been intrusively added, just below

this inscription.

Illustration: "Column on Barnet Battle-Field."

In my reverie, standing at the foot of this humble, weather-stained

monument, I saw the long range of Barnet hills, mantled with grass and

flowers and with the golden haze of a morning in spring, swarming with

gorgeous horsemen and glittering with spears and banners; and I heard

the vengeful clash of arms, the horrible neighing of maddened steeds,

the furious shouts of onset, and all the nameless cries and groans of

battle, commingled in a thrilling yet hideous din. Here rode King

Edward, intrepid, handsome, and stalwart, with his proud, cruel smile

and his long, yellow hair. There Warwick swung his great two-handed

sword, and mowed his foes like grain. And there the fiery form of

Richard, splendid in burnished steel, darted like the scorpion, dealing

death at every blow; till at last, in fatal mischance, the sad star of

Oxford, assailed by its own friends, was swept out of the field, and the

fight drove, raging, into the valleys of Hadley. How strangely, though,

did this fancied picture contrast with the actual scene before me! At a

little distance, all around the village green, the peaceful, embowered

cottages kept their sentinel watch. Over the careless, straggling grass

went the shadow of the passing cloud. Not a sound was heard, save the

rustle of leaves and the low laughter of some little children, playing

near the monument. Close by and at rest was a flock of geese, couched

upon the cool earth, and, as their custom is, supremely contented with

themselves and all the world.

And at the foot of the column, stretched out at his full length, in

tattered garments that scarcely covered his nakedness, reposed the

British labourer, fast asleep upon the sod. No more Wars of the Roses

now; but calm retirement, smiling plenty, cool western winds, and sleep

and peace--

"With a red rose and a white rose

Leaning, nodding at the wall."

Illustration: "Farm-house."

Shakespeare's England · 第 19 / 22 章