CHAPTER XII.

SHAKESPEARE'S HOME

It is the everlasting glory of Stratford-upon-Avon that it was the

birthplace of Shakespeare. Situated in the heart of Warwickshire, which

has been called "the garden of England," it nestles cosily in an

atmosphere of tranquil loveliness and is surrounded with everything that

soft and gentle rural scenery can provide to soothe the mind and to

nurture contentment. It stands upon a plain, almost in the centre of the

island, through which, between the low green hills that roll away on

either side, the Avon flows downward to the Severn. The country in its

neighbourhood is under perfect cultivation, and for many miles around

presents the appearance of a superbly appointed park. Portions of the

land are devoted to crops and pasture; other portions are thickly wooded

with oak, elm, willow, and chestnut; the meadows are intersected by

hedges of fragrant hawthorn, and the region smiles with flowers. Old

manor-houses, half-hidden among the trees, and thatched cottages

embowered with roses are sprinkled through the surrounding landscape;

and all the roads that converge upon this point--from Birmingham,

Warwick, Shipton, Bidford, Alcester, Evesham, Worcester, and other

contiguous towns--wind, in sun and shadow, through a sod of green

velvet, swept by the cool, sweet winds of the English summer.

Illustration: "The Grange."

Such felicities of situation and such accessories of beauty, however,

are not unusual in England; and Stratford, were it not hallowed by

association, though it would always hold a place among the pleasant

memories of the traveller, would not have become a shrine for the homage

of the world. To Shakespeare it owes its renown; from Shakespeare it

derives the bulk of its prosperity. To visit Stratford is to tread with

affectionate veneration in the footsteps of the poet. To write about

Stratford is to write about Shakespeare.

More than three hundred years have passed since the birth of that

colossal genius and many changes have occurred in his native town within

that period. The Stratford of Shakespeare's time was built principally

of timber, and it contained about fourteen hundred inhabitants. To-day

its population numbers more than eight thousand. New dwellings have

arisen where once were fields of wheat, glorious with the shimmering

lustre of the scarlet poppy. Many of the older buildings have been

altered. Manufacture has been stimulated into prosperous activity. The

Avon has been spanned by a new bridge, of iron--a path for pedestrians,

adjacent to Clopton's bridge of stone. (The iron bridge was opened

November 23, 1827. The Clopton Bridge was 376 yards long and about 16

yards wide. Alterations of the west end of it were made in 1814.) The

streets have been levelled, swept, rolled and garnished till they look

like a Flemish drawing, of the Middle Ages. Even the Shakespeare

cottage, the old Harvard house in High Street, and the two old

churches--authentic and splendid memorials of a distant and storied

past--have been "restored." If the poet could walk again through his

accustomed haunts, though he would see the same smiling country round

about, and hear, as of old, the ripple of the Avon murmuring in its

summer sleep, his eyes would rest on but few objects that once he knew.

Yet, there are the paths that Shakespeare often trod; there stands the

house in which he was born; there is the school in which he was taught;

there is the cottage in which he wooed his sweetheart; there are the

traces and relics of the mansion in which he died; and there is the

church that keeps his dust, so consecrated by the reverence of mankind

"That kings for such a tomb would wish to die."

In shape the town of Stratford somewhat resembles a large cross, which

is formed by High Street, running nearly north and south, and Bridge

Street and Wood Street, running nearly east and west. From these, which

are main avenues, radiate many and devious branches. A few of the

streets are broad and straight but many of them are narrow and crooked.

High and Bridge streets intersect each other at the centre of the town,

and there stands the market house, an ugly building, of the period of

George the Fourth, with belfry and illuminated clock, facing eastward

toward the old stone bridge, with fourteen arches,--the bridge that Sir

Hugh Clopton built across the Avon, in the reign of Henry the Seventh. A

cross once stood at the corner of High Street and Wood Street, and near

the cross was a pump and a well. From that central point a few steps

will bring the traveller to the birthplace of Shakespeare.

Illustration: "Shakespeare's Birthplace in Henley Street."

It is a little, two-story cottage, of timber and plaster, on the north

side of Henley Street, in the western part of the town. It must have

been, in its pristine days, finer than most of the dwellings in its

neighbourhood. The one-story house, with attic windows, was the almost

invariable fashion of building, in English country towns, till the

seventeenth century. This cottage, besides its two stories, had

dormer-windows, a pent-house over its door, and altogether was built and

appointed in a manner both luxurious and substantial. Its age is

unknown; but the history of Stratford reaches back to a period three

hundred years antecedent to William the Conqueror, and fancy, therefore,

is allowed ample room to magnify its antiquity. It was bought, or

occupied, by Shakespeare's father in 1555, and in it he resided till his

death, in 1601, when it descended by inheritance to the poet. Such is

the substance of the complex documentary evidence and of the emphatic

tradition that consecrate this cottage as the house in which Shakespeare

was born. The point has never been absolutely settled. John Shakespeare,

the father, was the owner in 1564 not only of the house in Henley Street

but of another in Greenhill Street. William Shakespeare might have been

born at either of those dwellings. Tradition, however, has sanctified

the Henley Street cottage; and this, accordingly, as Shakespeare's

cradle, will be piously guarded to a late posterity.

It has already survived serious perils and vicissitudes. By

Shakespeare's will it was bequeathed to his sister Joan--Mrs. William

Hart--to be held by her, under the yearly rent of twelvepence, during

her life, and at her death to revert to his daughter Susanna and her

descendants. His sister Joan appears to have been living there at the

time of his decease, in 1616. She is known to have been living there in

1639--twenty-three years later,--and doubtless she resided there till

her death, in 1646. The estate then passed to Susanna--Mrs. John

Hall,--from whom in 1649 it descended to her grandchild, Lady Barnard,

who left it to her kinsmen, Thomas and George Hart, grandsons of Joan.

In this line of descent it continued--subject to many of those

infringements which are incidental to poverty--till 1806, when William

Shakespeare Hart, the seventh in collateral kinship from the poet, sold

it to Thomas Court, from whose family it was at last purchased for the

British nation. Meantime the property, which originally consisted of two

tenements and a considerable tract of adjacent land, had, little by

little, been curtailed of its fair proportions by the sale of its

gardens and orchards. The two tenements--two in one, that is--had been

subdivided. A part of the building became an inn--at first called "The

Maidenhead," afterward "The Swan," and finally "The Swan and

Maidenhead." Another part became a butcher's shop. The old

dormer-windows and the pent-house disappeared. A new brick casing was

foisted upon the tavern end of the structure. In front of the butcher's

shop appeared a sign announcing "William Shakespeare was born in this

house: N.B.--A Horse and Taxed Cart to Let." Still later appeared

another legend, vouching that "the immortal Shakespeare was born in this

house." From 1793 till 1820 Thomas and Mary Hornby, connections by

marriage with the Harts, lived in the Shakespeare cottage--now at length

become the resort of literary pilgrims,--and Mary Hornby, who set up to

be a poet and wrote tragedy, comedy, and philosophy, took delight in

exhibiting its rooms to visitors. During the reign of that eccentric

custodian the low ceilings and whitewashed walls of its several chambers

became covered with autographs, scrawled thereon by many enthusiasts,

including some of the most famous persons in Europe. In 1820 Mary Hornby

was requested to leave the premises. She did not wish to go. She could

not endure the thought of a successor. "After me, the deluge!" She was

obliged to abdicate; but she conveyed away all the furniture and relics

alleged to be connected with Shakespeare's family, and she hastily

whitewashed the cottage walls. Only a small part of the wall of the

upper room, the chamber in which "nature's darling" first saw the light,

escaped that act of spiteful sacrilege. On the space behind its door may

still be read many names, with dates affixed, ranging back from 1820 to

1729. Among them is that of Dora Jordan, the beautiful and fascinating

actress, who wrote it there June 2, 1809. Much of Mary Hornby's

whitewash, which chanced to be unsized, was afterward removed, so that

her work of obliteration proved only in part successful. Other names

have been added to this singular, chaotic scroll of worship. Byron,

Scott,[1] Rogers, Thackeray, Kean, Tennyson, and Dickens are among the

votaries there and thus recorded.

[1] Sir Walter Scott visited Shakespeare's birthplace in August, 1821, and

at that time scratched his name on the window-pane. He had previously,

in 1815, visited Kenilworth. He was in Stratford again in 1828, and on

April 8 he went to Shakespeare's grave, and subsequently drove to

Charlecote. The visit of Lord Byron has been incorrectly assigned to the

year 1816. It occurred on August 28, possibly in 1812.

The successors of Mary Hornby guarded their charge with pious care. The

precious value of the old Shakespeare cottage grew more and more evident

to the English people. Washington Irving made his pilgrimage to

Stratford and recounted it in his beautiful _Sketch-Book. _Yet it was

not till P. T. Barnum, from the United States, arrived with a

proposition to buy the Shakespeare house and convey it to America that

the literary enthusiasm of Great Britain was made to take a practical

shape, and this venerated and inestimable relic became, in 1847, a

national possession. In 1856 John Shakespeare, of Worthington Field,

near Ashby-de-la-Zouche, gave a large sum of money to restore it; and

within the next two years, under the superintendence of Edward Gibbs and

William Holtom of Stratford, it was isolated by the demolition of the

cottages at its sides and in the rear, repaired wherever decay was

visible, and set in perfect order.

The builders of this house must have done their work thoroughly well,

for even after all these years of rough usage and of slow but incessant

decline the great timbers remain solid, the plastered walls are firm,

the huge chimney-stack is as permanent as a rock, and the ancient

flooring only betrays by the channelled aspect of its boards, and the

high polish on the heads of the nails which fasten them down, that it

belongs to a period of remote antiquity. The cottage stands close upon

the margin of the street, according to ancient custom of building

throughout Stratford; and, entering through a little porch, the pilgrim

stands at once in that low-ceiled, flag-stoned room, with its wide

fire-place, so familiar in prints of the chimney-corner of Shakespeare's

youthful days. Within the fire-place, on either side, is a seat

fashioned in the brick-work; and here, as it is pleasant to imagine, the

boy-poet often sat, on winter nights, gazing dreamily into the flames,

and building castles in that fairyland of fancy which was his celestial

inheritance. You presently pass from this room by a narrow, well-worn

staircase to the chamber above, which is shown as the place of the

poet's birth. An antiquated chair, of the sixteenth century, stands in

the right-hand corner. At the left is a small fire-place. Around the

walls are visible the great beams which are the framework of the

building--beams of seasoned oak that will last forever. Opposite to the

door of entrance is a threefold casement (the original window) full of

narrow panes of glass scrawled all over with names that their worshipful

owners have written with diamonds. The ceiling is so low that you can

easily touch it with uplifted hand. A portion of it is held in place by

a network of little iron laths. This room, and indeed the whole

structure, is as polished and orderly as any waxen, royal hall in the

Louvre, and it impresses observation much like old lace that has been

treasured up, in lavender or jasmine. These walls, which no one is now

permitted to mar, were naturally the favourite scroll of the Shakespeare

votaries of long ago. Every inch of the plaster bears marks of the

pencil of reverence. Hundreds of names are written there--some of them

famous but most of them obscure, and all destined to perish where they

stand. On the chimney-piece at the right of the fireplace, which is

named The Actor's Pillar, many actors have inscribed their signatures.

Edmund Kean wrote his name there--with what soulful veneration and

spiritual sympathy it is awful even to try to imagine. Sir Walter

Scott's name is scratched with a diamond on the window--"W. Scott." That

of Thackeray appears on the ceiling, and upon the beam across the centre

is that of Helen Faucit. The name of Eliza Vestris is written near the

fireplace. Mark Lemon and Charles Dickens are together on the opposite

wall. Byron wrote his name there, but it has disappeared. The list would

include, among others, Elliston, Buckstone, G. V. Brooke, Charles Kean,

Charles Mathews, and Fanny Fitzwilliam. But it is not of these offerings

of fealty that you think when you sit and muse alone in that mysterious

chamber. As once again I conjure up that strange and solemn scene, the

sunshine rests in checkered squares upon the ancient floor, the motes

swim in the sunbeams, the air is very cold, the place is hushed as

death, and over it all there broods an atmosphere of grave suspense and

mystical desolation--a sense of some tremendous energy stricken dumb and

frozen into silence and past and gone forever.

Opposite to the birthchamber, at the rear, there is a small apartment,

in which is displayed "the Stratford Portrait" of the poet. This

painting is said to have been owned by the Clopton family, and to have

fallen into the hands of William Hunt, town clerk of Stratford, who

bought the mansion of the Cloptons in 1758. The adventures through which

it passed can only be conjectured. It does not appear to have been

valued, and although it remained in the house it was cast away among

lumber and rubbish. In process of time it was painted over and changed

into a different subject. Then it fell a prey to dirt and damp. There is

a story that the little boys of the tribe of Hunt were accustomed to use

it as a target for their arrows. At last, after the lapse of a century,

the grandson of William Hunt showed it by chance to Simon Collins, an

artist, who surmised that a valuable portrait might perhaps exist

beneath its muddy surface. It was carefully cleaned. A thick beard was

removed, and the face of Shakespeare emerged upon the canvas. It is not

pretended that this portrait was painted in Shakespeare's time. The

close resemblance that it bears,--in attitude, dress, colours, and other

peculiarities,--to the painted bust of the poet in Stratford church

seems to indicate that it is a modern copy of that work. Upon a brass

plate affixed to it is the following inscription: "This portrait of

Shakespeare, after being in the possession of Mr. William Oakes Hunt,

town-clerk of Stratford, and his family, for upwards of a century, was

restored to its original condition by Mr. Simon Collins of London, and,

being considered a portrait of much interest and value, was given by

Mr. Hunt to the town of Stratford-upon-Avon, to be preserved in

Shakespeare's house, 23d April, 1862." There, accordingly, it remains,

and, in association with several other dubious presentments of the poet,

cheerfully adds to the mental confusion of the pilgrim who would form an

accurate image of Shakespeare's appearance. Standing in its presence it

was worth while to reflect that there are only two authentic

representations of Shakespeare in existence--the Droeshout portrait and

the Gerard Jonson bust. They may not be perfect works of art; they may

not do justice to the original; but they were seen and accepted by

persons to whom Shakespeare had been a living companion. The bust was

sanctioned by his children; the portrait was sanctioned by his friend

Ben Jonson, and by his brother actors Heminge and Condell, who prefixed

it, in 1623, to the first folio of his works. Standing among the relics

that have been gathered into a museum in an apartment on the

ground-floor of the cottage it was essential also to remember how often

"the wish is father to the thought" that sanctifies the uncertain

memorials of the distant past. Several of the most suggestive documents,

though, which bear upon the sparse and shadowy record of Shakespeare's

life are preserved in this place. Here is a deed, made in 1596, which

proves that this house was his father's residence. Here is the only

letter addressed to him that is known to exist--the letter of Richard

Quiney (1598) asking for the loan of thirty pounds. Here is a

declaration in a suit, in 1604, to recover the price of some malt that

he had sold to Philip Rogers. Here is a deed, dated 1609, on which is

the autograph of his brother Gilbert, who represented him, at Stratford,

in his business affairs, while he was absent in London, and who,

surviving, it is dubiously said, almost till the period of the

Restoration, talked, as a very old man, of the poet's impersonation of

Adam in _As You Like It._ (Possibly the reference of that legend is not

to Gilbert but to a son of his. Gilbert would have been nearly a century

old when Charles the Second came to the throne.) Here likewise is shown

a gold seal ring, found many years ago in a field near Stratford church,

on which, delicately engraved, appear the letters W. S., entwined with a

true lovers' knot. It may have belonged to Shakespeare. The conjecture

is that it did, and that,--since on the last of the three sheets which

contain his will the word "seal" is stricken out and the word "hand"

substituted,--he did not seal that document because he had only just

then lost this ring. The supposition is, at least, ingenious. It will

not harm the visitor to accept it. Nor, as he stands poring over the

ancient, decrepit school-desk which has been lodged in this museum, from

the grammar-school, will it greatly tax his credulity to believe that

the "shining morning face" of the boy Shakespeare once looked down upon

it, in the irksome quest of his "small Latin and less Greek." They call

it Shakespeare's desk. It is old, and it is known to have been in the

school of the guild three hundred years ago. There are other relics,

more or less indirectly connected with the great name that is here

commemorated. The inspection of them all would consume many days; the

description of them would occupy many pages. You write your name in the

visitors' book at parting, and perhaps stroll forth into the garden of

the cottage, which encloses it at the sides and in the rear, and there,

beneath the leafy boughs of the English lime, while your footsteps press

"the grassy carpet of this plain," behold growing all around you the

rosemary, pansies, fennel, columbines, rue, daisies, and violets, which

make the imperishable garland on Ophelia's grave, and which are the

fragrance of her solemn and lovely memory.

Thousands of times the wonder must have been expressed that while the

world knows so much about Shakespeare's mind it should know so little

about his life. The date of his birth, even, is established by an

inference. The register of Stratford church shows that he was baptised

there in 1564, on April 26. It was customary to baptise infants on the

third day after their birth. It is presumed that the custom was followed

in this instance, and hence it is deduced that Shakespeare was born on

April 23--a date which, making allowance for the difference between the

old and new styles of reckoning time, corresponds to our third of May.

Equally by an inference it is established that the boy was educated in

the free grammar-school. The school was there; and any boy of the town,

who was seven years old and able to read, could get admission to it.

Shakespeare's father, an alderman of Stratford (elected chief alderman,

October 10, 1571), and then a man of worldly substance, though afterward

he became poor, would surely have wished that his children should grow

up in knowledge. To the ancient school-house, accordingly, and the

adjacent chapel of the guild--which are still extant, at the south-east

corner of Chapel Lane and Church Street--the pilgrim confidently traces

the footsteps of the poet. Those buildings are of singular, picturesque

quaintness. The chapel dates back to about the middle of the thirteenth

century. It was a Roman Catholic institution, founded in 1296, under the

patronage of the Bishop of Worcester, and committed to the pious custody

of the guild of Stratford. A hospital was connected with it in those

days, and Robert de Stratford was its first master. New privileges and

confirmation were granted to the guild by Henry the Sixth, in 1403 and

1429. The grammar-school, established on an endowment of lands and

tenements by Thomas Jolyffe, was set up in association with it in 1482.

Toward the end of the reign of Henry the Seventh the whole of the

chapel, excepting the chancel, was torn down and rebuilt under the

munificent direction of Sir Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London and

Stratford's chief citizen and benefactor. Under Henry the Eighth, when

came the stormy times of the Reformation, the priests were driven out,

the guild was dissolved, and the chapel was despoiled. Edward the Sixth,

however, granted a new charter to this ancient institution, and with

especial precautions reinstated the school. The chapel itself was

occasionally used as a schoolroom when Shakespeare was a boy, and until

as late as the year 1595; and in case the lad did go thither (in 1571)

as a pupil, he must have been from childhood familiar with the series of

grotesque paintings upon its walls, presenting, in a pictorial panorama,

the history of the Holy Cross, from its origin as a tree at the

beginning of the world to its exaltation at Jerusalem. Those paintings

were brought to light in 1804 in the course of a renovation of the

chapel which then occurred, when the walls were relieved of thick

coatings of whitewash, laid on them long before, in Puritan times,

either to spoil or to hide from the spoiler. They are not visible now,

but they were copied and have been engraved. The drawings of them, by

Fisher, are in the collection of Shakespearean Rarities made by J. O.

Halliwell-Phillipps. This chapel and its contents constitute one of the

few remaining spectacles at Stratford that bring us face to face with

Shakespeare. During the last seven years of his life he dwelt almost

continually in his house of New Place, on the corner immediately

opposite to this church. The configuration of the excavated foundations

of that house indicates what would now be called a deep bay-window in

its southern front. There, probably, was Shakespeare's study; and

through that casement, many and many a time, in storm and in sunshine,

by night and by day, he must have looked out upon the grim, square

tower, the embattled stone wall, and the four tall Gothic windows of

that mysterious temple. The moment your gaze falls upon it, the

low-breathed, horror-stricken words of Lady Macbeth murmur in your

memory:--

"The raven himself is hoarse

That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan

Under my battlements."

New Place, Shakespeare's home at the time of his death and the house in

which he died, stood on the north-east corner of Chapel Street and

Chapel Lane. Nothing now remains of it but a portion of its

foundations--long buried in the earth, but found and exhumed in

comparatively recent days. Its gardens have been redeemed, through the

zealous and devoted exertions of J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps and have been

restored to what is thought to have been almost their condition when

Shakespeare owned them. The crumbling fragments of the foundation are

covered with screens of wood and wire. A mulberry-tree, a scion of the

famous mulberry that Shakespeare is known to have planted, is growing on

the lawn. There is no authentic picture in existence that shows New

Place as it was when Shakespeare left it, but there is a sketch of it as

it appeared in 1740. The house was made of brick and timber, and was

built by Sir Hugh Clopton nearly a century before it became by purchase

the property of the poet. Shakespeare bought it in 1597, and in it he

passed, intermittently, a considerable part of the last nineteen years

of his life. It had borne the name of New Place before it came into his

possession. The Clopton family parted with it in 1563, and it was

subsequently owned by families of Bott and Underhill. At Shakespeare's

death it was inherited by his eldest daughter, Susanna, wife of Dr. John

Hall. In 1643, Mrs. Hall, then seven years a widow, being still its

owner and occupant, Henrietta Maria, queen to Charles the First, who had

come to Stratford with a part of the royal army, resided for three days

at New Place, which, therefore, must even then have been the most

considerable private residence in the town. (The queen arrived at

Stratford on July 11 and on July 13 she went to Kineton.) Mrs. Hall,

dying in 1649, aged sixty-six, left it to her only child, Elizabeth,

then Mrs. Thomas Nashe, who afterward became Lady Barnard, wife to Sir

John Barnard, of Abingdon, and in whom the direct line of Shakespeare

ended. After her death the estate was purchased by Sir Edward Walker, in

1675, who ultimately left it to his daughter's husband, Sir John Clopton

(1638-1719), and so it once more passed into the hands of the family of

its founder. A second Sir Hugh Clopton (1671-1751) owned it at the

middle of the eighteenth century, and under his direction it was

repaired, decorated, and furnished with a new front. That proved the

beginning of the end of this old structure, as a relic of Shakespeare;

for this owner, dying in 1751, bequeathed it to his son-in-law, Henry

Talbot, who in 1753 sold it to the most universally execrated iconoclast

of modern times, the Rev. Francis Gastrell, vicar of Frodsham, in

Cheshire, by whom it was destroyed. Mr. Gastrell was a man of fortune,

and he certainly was one of insensibility. He knew little of

Shakespeare; but he knew that the frequent incursion, into his garden,

of strangers who came to sit beneath "Shakespeare's mulberry" was a

troublesome annoyance. He struck, therefore, at the root of the vexation

and cut down the tree. That was in 1756. The wood was purchased by

Thomas Sharp, a watchmaker of Stratford, who subsequently made the

solemn declaration that he carried it to his home and converted it into

toys and kindred memorial relics. The villagers of Stratford, meantime,

incensed at the barbarity of Mr. Gastrell, took their revenge by

breaking his windows. In this and in other ways the clergyman was

probably made to realise his local unpopularity. It had been his custom

to reside during a part of each year in Lichfield, leaving some of his

servants in charge of New Place. The overseers of Stratford, having

lawful authority to levy a tax, for the maintenance of the poor, on

every house in the town valued at more than forty shillings a year, did

not neglect to make a vigorous use of their privilege in the case of

Mr. Gastrell. The result of their exactions in the sacred cause of

charity was significant. In 1759 Mr. Gastrell declared that the house

should never be taxed again, pulled down the building, sold the

materials of which it had been composed, and left Stratford forever. He

repaired to Lichfield and there died. In the house adjacent to the site

of what was once Shakespeare's home has been established a museum of

Shakespearean relics. Among them is a stone mullion, found on the site,

which may have belonged to a window of the original mansion. This

estate, bought from different owners and restored to its Shakespearean

condition, became on April 17, 1876, the property of the corporation of

Stratford. The tract of land is not large. The visitor may traverse the

whole of it in a few minutes, although if he obey his inclination he

will linger there for hours. The enclosure is an irregular rectangle,

about two hundred feet long. The lawn is perfect. The mulberry is extant

and tenacious, and wears its honours in contented vigour. Other trees

give grateful shade to the grounds, and the voluptuous red roses,

growing all around in rich profusion, load the air with fragrance.

Eastward, at a little distance, flows the Avon. Not far away rises the

graceful spire of the Holy Trinity. A few rooks, hovering in the air and

wisely bent on some facetious mischief, send down through the silver

haze of the summer morning their sagacious yet melancholy caw. The

windows of the gray chapel across the street twinkle, and keep their

solemn secret. On this spot was first waved the mystic wand of Prospero.

Here Ariel sang of dead men's bones turned into pearl and coral in the

deep caverns of the sea. Here arose into everlasting life Hermione, "as

tender as infancy and grace." Here were created Miranda and Perdita,

twins of heaven's own radiant goodness,--

"Daffodils

That come before the swallow dares, and take

The winds of March with beauty; violets dim,

But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes

Or Cytherea's breath."

To endeavour to touch upon the larger and more august aspect of

Shakespeare's life--when, as his wonderful sonnets betray, his great

heart had felt the devastating blast of cruel passions and the deepest

knowledge of the good and evil of the universe had been borne in upon

his soul--would be impious presumption. Happily to the stroller in

Stratford every association connected with him is gentle and tender. His

image, as it rises there, is of smiling boyhood or sedate and benignant

maturity; always either joyous or serene, never passionate, or

turbulent, or dark. The pilgrim thinks of him as a happy child at his

father's fireside; as a wondering school-boy in the quiet, venerable

close of the old guild chapel, where still the only sound that breaks

the silence is the chirp of birds or the creaking of the church vane; as

a handsome, dauntless youth, sporting by his beloved river or roaming

through field and forest many miles around; as the bold, adventurous

spirit, bent on frolic and mischief, and not averse to danger, leading,

perhaps, the wild lads of his village in their poaching depredations on

the chace of Charlecote; as the lover, strolling through the green lanes

of Shottery, hand in hand with the darling of his first love, while

round them the honeysuckle breathed out its fragrant heart upon the

winds of night, and overhead the moonlight, streaming through rifts of

elm and poplar, fell on their pathway in showers of shimmering silver;

and, last of all, as the illustrious poet, rooted and secure in his

massive and shining fame, loved by many, and venerated and mourned by

all, borne slowly through Stratford churchyard, while the golden bells

were tolled in sorrow and the mourning lime-trees dropped their blossoms

on his bier, to the place of his eternal rest. Through all the scenes

incidental to this experience the worshipper of Shakespeare's genius may

follow him every step of the way.

Illustration: "Anne Hathaway's Cottage."

The old foot-path across the fields to Shottery remains accessible.

Wild-flowers are blooming along its margin. The gardens and meadows

through which it winds are sprinkled with the gorgeous scarlet of the

poppy. The hamlet of Shottery is less than a mile from Stratford,

stepping toward the sunset; and there, nestled beneath the elms, and

almost embowered in vines and roses, stands the cottage in which Anne

Hathaway was wooed and won. This is even more antiquated in appearance

than the birthplace of Shakespeare, and more obviously a relic of the

distant past. It is built of wood and plaster, ribbed with massive

timbers, and covered with a thatch roof. It fronts southward, presenting

its eastern end to the road. Under its eaves, peeping through embrasures

cut in the thatch, are four tiny casements, round which the ivy twines

and the roses wave softly in the wind of June. The western end of the

structure is higher than the eastern, and the old building, originally

divided into two tenements, is now divided into three. In front of it is

a straggling garden. There is a comfortable air of wildness, yet not of

neglect, in its appointments and surroundings. The place is still the

abode of labour and lowliness. Entering its parlour you see a stone

floor, a wide fireplace, a broad, hospitable hearth, with cosy

chimney-corners, and near this an old wooden settle, much decayed but

still serviceable, on which Shakespeare may often have sat, with Anne at

his side. The plastered walls of this room here and there reveal

portions of an oak wainscot. The ceiling is low. This evidently was the

farm-house of a substantial yeoman, in the days of Henry the Eighth. The

Hathaways had lived in Shottery for forty years prior to Shakespeare's

marriage. The poet, then undistinguished, had just turned eighteen,

while his bride was nearly twenty-six, and it has been foolishly said

that she acted ill in wedding her boy-lover. They were married in

November, 1582, and their first child, Susanna, came in the following

May. Anne Hathaway must have been a wonderfully fascinating woman, or

Shakespeare would not so have loved her; and she must have loved him

dearly--as what woman, indeed, could help it?--or she would not thus

have yielded to his passion. There is direct testimony to the beauty of

his person; and in the light afforded by his writings it requires no

extraordinary penetration to conjecture that his brilliant mind,

sparkling humour, tender fancy, and impetuous spirit must have made him,

in his youth, a paragon of enchanters. It is not known where they lived

during the first years after their marriage. Perhaps in this cottage at

Shottery. Perhaps with Hamnet and Judith Sadler, for whom their twins,

born in 1585, were named Hamnet and Judith. Her father's house assuredly

would have been chosen for Anne's refuge, when presently (in 1585-86),

Shakespeare was obliged to leave his wife and children, and go away to

London to seek his fortune. He did not buy New Place till 1597, but it

is known that in the meantime he came to his native town once every

year. It was in Stratford that his son Hamnet died, in 1596. Anne and

her children probably had never left the town. They show a bedstead and

other bits of furniture, together with certain homespun sheets of

everlasting linen, that are kept as heirlooms in the garret of the

Shottery cottage. Here is the room that may often have welcomed the poet

when he came home from his labours in the great city. It is a homely and

humble place, but the sight of it makes the heart thrill with a strange

and incommunicable awe. You cannot wish to speak when you are standing

there. You are scarcely conscious of the low rustling of the leaves

outside, the far-off sleepy murmur of the brook, or the faint fragrance

of woodbine and maiden's-blush that is wafted in at the open casement

and that swathes in nature's incense a memory sweeter than itself.

Associations may be established by fable as well as by fact. There is

but little reason to believe the legendary tale, first recorded by Rowe,

that Shakespeare, having robbed the deer-park of Sir Thomas Lucy of

Charlecote (there was not a park at Charlecote then, but there was one

at Fullbrooke), was so severely persecuted by that magistrate that he

was compelled to quit Stratford and shelter himself in London. Yet the

story has twisted itself into all the lives of Shakespeare, and whether

received or rejected has clung to the house of Charlecote. That noble

mansion--a genuine specimen, despite a few modern alterations, of the

architecture of Queen Elizabeth's time--is found on the west bank of the

Avon, about three miles north-east from Stratford. It is a long,

rambling, three-storied palace--as finely quaint as old St. James's in

London, and not altogether unlike that edifice, in general

character--with octagon turrets, gables, balustrades, Tudor casements,

and great stacks of chimneys, so closed in by elms of giant growth that

you can scarce distinguish it, through the foliage, till you are close

upon it.

Illustration: "Charlecote."

It was erected in 1558 by Thomas Lucy, who in 1578 was Sheriff of

Warwickshire, who was elected to the Parliaments of 1571 and 1584, and

who was knighted by Queen Elizabeth in 1565. The porch to this building

was designed by John of Padua. There is a silly ballad in existence,

idly attributed to Shakespeare, which, it is said, was found affixed to

Lucy's gate, and gave him great offence. He must have been more than

commonly sensitive to low abuse if he could have been annoyed by such a

manifestly scurrilous ebullition of the blackguard and the

blockhead,--supposing, indeed, that he ever saw it. The ballad,

proffered as the work of Shakespeare, is a forgery. There is but one

existing reason to think that the poet ever cherished a grudge against

the Lucy family, and that is the coarse allusion to the "luces" which is

found in the _Merry Wives of Windsor. _There was apparently, a second

Sir Thomas Lucy, later than the Sheriff, who was more of the Puritanic

breed, while Shakespeare evidently was a Cavalier. It is possible that

in a youthful frolic the poet may have poached on Sheriff Lucy's

preserves. Even so, the affair was trivial. It is possible, too, that in

after years he may have had reason to dislike the ultra-Puritanical

neighbour. Some memory of the tradition will, of course, haunt the

traveller's thoughts as he strolls by Hatton Rock and through the

villages of Hampton and Charlecote. But this discordant recollection is

soon smoothed away by the peaceful loveliness of the ramble--past aged

hawthorns that Shakespeare himself may have seen, and under the boughs

of beeches, limes, and drooping willows, where every footstep falls on

wild-flowers, or on a cool green turf that is softer than Indian silk

and as firm and elastic as the sand of the sea-beaten shore. Thought of

Sir Thomas Lucy will not be otherwise than kind, either, when the

stranger in Charlecote church reads the epitaph with which the old

knight commemorated his wife: "All the time of her Lyfe a true and

faithfull servant of her good God; never detected of any crime or vice;

in religion most sound; in love to her husband most faithfull and true.

In friendship most constant. To what in trust was committed to her most

secret; in wisdom excelling; in governing her House and bringing up of

Youth in the feare of God that did converse with her most rare and

singular; a great maintainer of hospitality; greatly esteemed of her

betters; misliked of none unless the envious. When all is spoken that

can be said, a Woman so furnished and garnished with Virtue as not to be

bettered, and hardly to be equalled of any; as she lived most

virtuously, so she dyed most godly. Set down by him that best did know

what hath been written to be true. Thomas Lucy." A narrow formalist he

may have been, and a severe magistrate in his dealings with scapegrace

youths, and perhaps a haughty and disagreeable neighbour; but there is a

touch of manhood, high feeling, and virtuous and self-respecting

character in those lines, that instantly wins the response of sympathy.

If Shakespeare really shot the deer of Thomas Lucy the injured gentleman

had a right to feel annoyed. Shakespeare, boy or man, was not a saint,

and those who so account him can have read his works to but little

purpose. He can bear the full brunt of his faults. He does not need to

be canonised.

The ramble to Charlecote--one of the prettiest walks about

Stratford--was, it may surely be supposed, often taken by Shakespeare.

Many another ramble was possible to him and no doubt was made. He would

cross the mill bridge (new in 1599), which spans the Avon a little way

to the south of the church. A quaint, sleepy mill no doubt it

was--necked with moss and ivy--and the gaze of Shakespeare assuredly

dwelt on it with pleasure.

Illustration: "Meadow Walk by the Avon."

His footsteps may be traced, also, in fancy, to the region of the old

college building, demolished in 1799, which stood in the southern part

of Stratford, and was the home of his friend John Combe, factor of Fulke

Greville, Earl of Warwick. Still another of his walks must have tended

northward through Welcombe, where he was the owner of land, to the

portly manor of Clopton, or to the home of William, nephew of

John-a-Combe, which stood where the Phillips mansion stands now. On what

is called the Ancient House, which stands on the west side of High

Street, he may often have looked, as he strolled past to the Red Horse.

That picturesque building, dated 1596, survives, notwithstanding some

modern touches of rehabilitation, as a beautiful specimen of Tudor

architecture in one at least of its most charming traits, the carved and

timber-crossed gable. It is a house of three stories, containing

parlour, sitting-room, kitchen, and several bedrooms, besides cellars

and brew-shed; and when sold at auction, August 23, 1876, it brought

L400. In that house was born John Harvard, who founded Harvard

University. There are other dwellings fully as old in Stratford, but

they have been covered with stucco and otherwise changed. This is a

genuine piece of antiquity and it vies with the grammar-school and the

hall of the Guild, under the pent-house of which the poet would pass

whenever he went abroad from New Place. Julius Shaw, one of the five

witnesses to his will, lived in the house next to the present New Place

Museum, and there, it is reasonable to think, Shakespeare would often

pause, for a word with his friend and neighbour. In the little streets

by the riverside, which are ancient and redolent of the past, his image

seems steadily familiar. In Dead Lane (once also called Walker Street,

now called Chapel Lane) he owned a cottage, bought of Walter Getley in

1602, and only destroyed within the present century. These and kindred

shreds of fact, suggesting the poet as a living man and connecting him,

however vaguely, with our everyday experience, are seized with peculiar

zest by the pilgrim in Stratford. Such a votary, for example, never

doubts that Shakespeare was a frequenter, in leisure or convivial hours,

of the ancient Red Horse inn. It stood there, in his day, as it stands

now, on the north side of Bridge Street, westward from the Avon. There

are many other taverns in the town--the Shakespeare, a delightful

resort, the Falcon, the Rose and Crown, the old Red Lion, and the Swan's

Nest, being a few of them,---but the Red Horse takes precedence of all

its kindred, in the fascinating because suggestive attribute of

antiquity. Moreover it was the Red Horse that harboured Washington

Irving, the pioneer of American worshippers at the shrine of

Shakespeare; and the American explorer of Stratford would cruelly

sacrifice his peace of mind if he were to repose under any other roof.

The Red Horse is a rambling, three-story building, entered through an

archway that leads into a long, straggling yard, adjacent to offices and

stables. On one side of the entrance is found the smoking-room; on the

other is the coffee-room. Above are the bed-rooms. It is a thoroughly

old-fashioned inn--such a one as we may suppose the Boar's Head to have

been, in the time of Prince Henry; such a one as untravelled Americans

only know in the pages of Dickens. The rooms are furnished in neat,

homelike style, and their associations readily deck them with the

fragrant garlands of memory. When Drayton and Jonson came down to visit

"gentle Will" at Stratford they could scarcely have omitted to quaff the

humming ale of Warwickshire in that cosy parlour. When Queen Henrietta

Maria was ensconced at New Place the general of the royal forces

quartered himself at the Red Horse, and then doubtless there was enough

and to spare of revelry within its walls. A little later the old house

was soundly peppered by Roundhead bullets and the whole town was overrun

with the close-cropped, psalm-singing soldiers of the Commonwealth. In

1742 Garrick and Macklin lodged in the Red Horse, and thither again came

Garrick in 1769, to direct the Shakespeare Jubilee, which was then most

dismally accomplished but which is always remembered to the great

actor's credit and honour. Betterton, no doubt, lodged there when he

came to Stratford in quest of reminiscences of Shakespeare. The visit of

Washington Irving, supplemented with his delicious chronicle, has led to

what might be called almost the consecration of the parlour in which he

sat and the chamber (No. 15) in which he slept. They still keep the

poker--now marked "Geoffrey Crayon's sceptre"--with which, as he sat

there in long, silent, ecstatic meditation, he prodded the fire in the

narrow, tiny grate. They keep also the chair in which he sat--a plain,

straight-backed arm-chair, with a haircloth seat, marked, on a brass

plate, with his renowned and treasured name. Thus genius can sanctify

even the humblest objects,

"And shed a something of celestial light

Round the familiar face of every day."

To pass rapidly in review the little that is known of Shakespeare's life

is, nevertheless, to be impressed not only by its incessant and amazing

literary fertility but by the quick succession of its salient incidents.

The vitality must have been enormous that created in so short a time

such a number and variety of works of the first class. The same quick

spirit would naturally have kept in agitation all the elements of his

daily experience. Descended from an ancestor who had fought for the Red

Rose on Bosworth Field, he was born to repute as well as competence, and

during his early childhood he received instruction and training in a

comfortable home. He escaped the plague that was raging in Stratford

when he was an infant, and that took many victims. He went to school

when seven years old and left it when about fourteen. He then had to

work for his living--his once opulent father having fallen into

misfortune--and he became an apprentice to a butcher, or else a lawyer's

clerk (there were seven lawyers in Stratford at that time), or else a

schoolteacher. Perhaps he was all three--and more. It is conjectured

that he saw the players who from time to time acted in the Guildhall,

under the auspices of the corporation of Stratford; that he attended the

religious entertainments that were customarily given in the not distant

city of Coventry; and that in particular he witnessed the elaborate and

sumptuous pageants with which in 1575 the Earl of Leicester welcomed

Queen Elizabeth to Kenilworth Castle. He married at eighteen; and,

leaving a wife and three children in Stratford, he went up to London at

twenty-two. His entrance into theatrical life followed--in what capacity

it is impossible to say. One dubious account says that he held horses

for the public at the theatre door; another that he got employment as a

prompter to the actors. It is certain that he had not been in the

theatrical business long before he began to make himself known. At

twenty-eight he was a prosperous author. At twenty-nine he had acted

with Burbage before Queen Elizabeth; and while Spenser had extolled him

in the "Tears of the Muses," the hostile Greene had disparaged him in

the "Groat's-worth of Wit." At thirty-three he had acquired wealth

enough to purchase New Place, the principal residence in his native

town, where now he placed his family and established his home,--himself

remaining in London, but visiting Stratford at frequent intervals. At

thirty-four he was heard of as the actor of Knowell in Ben Jonson's

comedy of _Every Man in his Humour_[1] and he received the glowing

encomium of Meres in _Wits Treasury. _At thirty-eight he had written

_Hamlet _and _As You Like It, _and moreover he had now become the owner

of more estate in Stratford, costing L320. At forty-one he made his

largest purchase, buying for L440 the "unexpired term of a moiety of the

interest in a lease granted in 1554 for ninety-two years of the tithes

of Stratford, Bishopton, and Welcombe." In the meantime he had smoothed

the declining years of his father and had followed him with love and

duty to the grave. Other domestic bereavements likewise befell him, and

other worldly cares and duties were laid upon his hands, but neither

grief nor business could check the fertility of his brain. Within the

next ten years he wrote, among other great plays, _Othello, Lear,

Macbeth, _and _Coriolanus._

[1] Jonson's famous comedy was first acted in 1598, "By the then Lord

Chamberlain his servants." Knowell is designated as "an old gentleman."

The Jonson Folio of 1692 names as follows the principal comedians who

acted in that piece: "Will. Shakespeare. Aug. Philips. Hen. Condel.

Will. Slye. Will. Kempe. Ric. Burbadge. Joh. Hemings. Tho. Pope. Chr.

Beston. Joh. Duke."

At about forty-eight he seems to have disposed of his interest in the

two London theatres with which he had been connected, the Blackfriars

and the Globe, and shortly afterwards, his work as we possess it being

well-nigh completed, he retired finally to his Stratford home. That he

was the comrade of many bright spirits who glittered in "the spacious

times" of Elizabeth several of them have left personal testimony. That

he was the king of them all is shown in his works. The Sonnets seem to

disclose that there was a mysterious, almost a tragical, passage in his

life, and that he was called to bear the burden of a great and perhaps a

calamitous personal grief--one of those griefs, which, being caused by

sinful love, are endless in the punishment they entail. Happily,

however, no antiquarian student of Shakespeare's time has yet succeeded

in coming near to the man. While he was in London he used to frequent

the Falcon Tavern, in Southwark, and the Mermaid, and he lived at one

time in St. Helen's parish, Aldersgate, and at another time in Clink

Street, Southwark. As an actor his name has been associated with his

characters of Adam, Friar Lawrence, and the Ghost of King Hamlet, and a

contemporary reference declared him "excellent in the quality he

professes." Some of his manuscripts, it is possible, perished in the

fire that consumed the Globe theatre in 1613. He passed his last days in

his home at Stratford, and died there, somewhat suddenly, on his

fifty-second birthday. That event, it may be worth while to observe,

occurred within thirty-three years of the execution of Charles the

First, under the Puritan Commonwealth of Oliver Cromwell. The Puritan

spirit, intolerant of the play-house and of all its works, must then

have been gaining formidable strength. His daughter Susanna, aged

thirty-three at the time of his death, survived him thirty-three years.

His daughter Judith, aged thirty-one at the time of his death, survived

him forty-six years. The whisper of tradition says that both were

Puritans. If so the strange and seemingly unaccountable disappearance of

whatever play-house papers he may have left at Stratford should not be

obscure. This suggestion is likely to have been made before; and also it

is likely to have been supplemented with a reference to the great fire

in London in 1666--(which in consuming St. Paul's cathedral burned an

immense quantity of books and manuscripts that had been brought from all

the threatened parts of the city and heaped beneath its arches for

safety)--as probably the final and effectual holocaust of almost every

piece of print or writing that might have served to illuminate the

history of Shakespeare. In his personality no less than in the

fathomless resources of his genius he baffles scrutiny and stands for

ever alone.

"Others abide our question; thou art free:

We ask, and ask; thou smilest and art still--

Out-topping knowledge."

It is impossible to convey an adequate suggestion of the prodigious and

overwhelming sense of peace that falls upon the soul of the pilgrim in

Stratford church. All the cares and struggles and trials of mortal life,

all its failures, and equally all its achievements, seem there to pass

utterly out of remembrance. It is not now an idle reflection that "the

paths of glory lead but to the grave." No power of human thought ever

rose higher or went further than the thought of Shakespeare. No human

being, using the best weapons of intellectual achievement, ever

accomplished so much. Yet here he lies--who was once so great! And here

also, gathered around him in death, lie his parents, his children, his

descendants, and his friends. For him and for them the struggle has long

since ended. Let no man fear to tread the dark pathway that Shakespeare

has trodden before him. Let no man, standing at this grave, and seeing

and feeling that all the vast labours of that celestial genius end here

at last in a handful of dust, fret and grieve any more over the puny and

evanescent toils of to-day, so soon to be buried in oblivion! In the

simple performance of duty and in the life of the affections there may

be permanence and solace. The rest is an "insubstantial pageant." It

breaks, it changes, it dies, it passes away, it is forgotten; and though

a great name be now and then for a little while remembered, what can the

remembrance of mankind signify to him who once wore it? Shakespeare,

there is reason to believe, set precisely the right value alike upon

contemporary renown and the homage of posterity. Though he went forth,

as the stormy impulses of his nature drove him, into the great world of

London, and there laid the firm hand of conquest upon the spoils of

wealth and power, he came back at last to the peaceful home of his

childhood; he strove to garner up the comforts and everlasting treasures

of love at his hearthstone; he sought an enduring monument in the hearts

of friends and companions; and so he won for his stately sepulchre the

garland not alone of glory but of affection. Through the high eastern

window of the chancel of Holy Trinity church the morning sunshine,

broken into many-coloured light, streams in upon the grave of

Shakespeare and gilds his bust upon the wall above it. He lies close by

the altar, and every circumstance of his place of burial is eloquent of

his hold upon the affectionate esteem of his contemporaries. The line of

graves beginning at the north wall of the chancel and extending across

to the south seems devoted entirely to Shakespeare and his family, with

but one exception.[1] The pavement that covers them is of that blue-gray

slate or freestone which in England is sometimes called black marble. In

the first grave under the north wall rests Shakespeare's wife. The next

is that of the poet himself, bearing the world-famed words of blessing

and imprecation. Then comes the grave of Thomas Nashe, husband to

Elizabeth. Hall, the poet's granddaughter, who died April 4, 1647. Next

is that of Dr. John Hall (obiit November 25, 1635), husband to his

daughter Susanna, and close beside him rests Susanna herself, who was

buried on July 11, 1649. The gravestones are laid east and west, and all

but one present inscriptions. That one is under the south wall, and

possibly it covers the dust of Judith--Mrs. Thomas Quiney--the youngest

daughter of Shakespeare, who, surviving her three children and thus

leaving no descendants, died in 1662. Upon the gravestone of Susanna an

inscription has been intruded commemorative of Richard Watts, who is

not, however, known to have had any relationship with either Shakespeare

or his descendants.

[1] "The poet knew," says J. O. Halliwell-Phillipps, "that as a tithe-owner

he would necessarily be buried in the chancel."

Shakespeare's father, who died in 1601, and his mother, Mary Arden, who

died in 1608, were buried in or near this church. (The register says,

under Burials, "September 9, 1608, Mayry Shaxspere, wydowe.") His infant

sisters Joan, Margaret, and Anne, and his brother Richard, who died,

aged thirty-nine, in 1613, may also have been laid to rest in this

place. Of the death and burial of his brother Gilbert there is no

record. His sister Joan, the second--Mrs. Hart--would naturally have

been placed with her relatives. His brother Edmund, dying in 1607, aged

twenty-seven, is under the pavement of St. Saviour's church in

Southwark. The boy Hamnet, dying before his father had risen into local

eminence, rests, probably, in an undistinguished grave in the

churchyard. (The register records his burial on August 11, 1596.) The

family of Shakespeare seems to have been short-lived and it was soon

extinguished. He himself died at fifty-two. Judith's children perished

young. Susanna bore but one child--Elizabeth--who became successively

Mrs. Nashe and Lady Barnard, and she, dying in 1670, was buried at

Abingdon, near Oxford. She left no children by either husband, and in

her the race of Shakespeare became extinct. That of Anne Hathaway also

has nearly disappeared, the last living descendant of the Hathaways

being Mrs. Baker, the present occupant of Anne's cottage at Shottery.

Thus, one by one, from the pleasant gardened town of Stratford, they

went to take up their long abode in that old church, which was ancient

even in their infancy, and which, watching through the centuries in its

monastic solitude on the shore of Avon, has seen their lands and houses

devastated by flood and fire, the places that knew them changed by the

tooth of time, and almost all the associations of their lives

obliterated by the improving hand of destruction.

One of the oldest and most interesting Shakespearean documents in

existence is the narrative, by a traveller named Dowdall, of his

observations in Warwickshire, and of his visit, on April 10, 1693, to

Stratford church. He describes therein the bust and the tombstone of

Shakespeare, and he adds these remarkable words: "The clerk that showed

me this church is above eighty years old. He says that not one, for fear

of the curse above said, dare touch his gravestone, though his wife and

daughter did earnestly desire to be laid in the same grave with him."

Writers in modern days have been pleased to disparage that inscription

and to conjecture that it was the work of a sexton and not of the poet;

but no one denies that it has accomplished its purpose in preserving the

sanctity of Shakespeare's rest. Its rugged strength, its simple pathos,

its fitness, and its sincerity make it felt as unquestionably the

utterance of Shakespeare himself, when it is read upon the slab that

covers him. There the musing traveller full well conceives how dearly

the poet must have loved the beautiful scenes of his birthplace, and

with what intense longing he must have desired to sleep undisturbed in

the most sacred spot in their bosom. He doubtless had some premonition

of his approaching death. Three months before it came he made his will.

A little later he saw the marriage of his younger daughter. Within less

than a month of his death he executed the will, and thus set his affairs

in order. His handwriting in the three signatures to that paper

conspicuously exhibits the uncertainty and lassitude of shattered

nerves. He was probably quite worn out. Within the space, at the utmost,

of twenty-five years, he had written thirty-seven plays, one hundred and

fifty-four sonnets, and two or more long poems; had passed through much

and painful toil and through bitter sorrow; had made his fortune as

author and actor; and had superintended, to excellent advantage, his

property in London and his large interests in Stratford and its

neighbourhood. The proclamation of health with which the will begins was

doubtless a formality of legal custom. The story that he died of

drinking too hard at a merry meeting with Drayton and Ben Jonson is idle

gossip. If in those last days of fatigue and presentiment he wrote the

epitaph that has ever since marked his grave, it would naturally have

taken the plainest fashion of speech. Such is its character; and no

pilgrim to the poet's shrine could wish to see it changed:--

"Good frend for Iesvs sake forbeare,

To digg the dvst encloased heare;

Blese be ye man yt spares thes stones

And cvrst be he yt moves my bones."

It was once surmised that the poet's solicitude lest his bones might be

disturbed in death grew out of his intention to take with him into the

grave a confession that the works which now follow him were written by

another hand. Persons have been found who actually believe that a man

who was great enough to write _Hamlet _could be little enough to feel

ashamed of it, and, accordingly, that Shakespeare was only hired to play

at authorship, as a screen for the actual author. It might not, perhaps,

be strange that a desire for singularity, which is one of the worst

literary crazes of this capricious age, should prompt to the rejection

of the conclusive and overwhelming testimony to Shakespeare's genius

that has been left by Shakespeare's contemporaries, and that shines

forth in all that is known of his life. It is strange that a doctrine

should get itself asserted which is subversive of common reason and

contradictory to every known law of the human mind. This conjectural

confession of poetic imposture has never been exhumed. The grave is

known to have been disturbed, in 1796, when alterations were made in the

church,[1] and there came a time in the present century when, as they were

making repairs in the chancel pavement (the chancel was renovated in

1835), a rift was accidently made in the Shakespeare vault. Through

this, though not without misgiving, the sexton peeped in upon the poet's

remains. He saw nothing but dust.

[1] It was the opinion--not conclusive but interesting--of the late J. O.

Halliwell-Phillipps that at one or other of these "restorations" the

original tombstone of Shakespeare was removed and another one, from the

yard of a modern stone-mason, put in its place. Dr. Ingleby, in his book

on _Shakespeare's Bones, _1883, asserts that the original stone was

removed. I have compared Shakespeare's tombstone with that of his wife,

and with others in the chancel, but I have not found the discrepancy

observed by Mr. Halliwell-Phillipps, and I think there is no reason to

believe that the original tombstone has ever been disturbed. The letters

upon it were, probably, cut deeper in 1835.

The antique font from which the infant Shakespeare may have received the

water of Christian baptism is still preserved in this church. It was

thrown aside and replaced by a new one about the middle of the

seventeenth century. Many years afterward it was found in the

charnel-house. When that was destroyed, in 1800, it was cast into the

churchyard. In later times the parish clerk used it as a trough to his

pump. It passed then through the hands of several successive owners,

till at last, in days that had learned to value the past and the

associations connected with its illustrious names, it found its way back

again to the sanctuary from which it had suffered such a rude expulsion.

It is still a handsome stone, though broken, soiled, and marred.

Illustration: "Remains of the Old Font at which, probably, Shakespeare

was christened, now in the Nave of Stratford Church."

On the north wall of the chancel, above his grave and near to "the

American window," is placed Shakespeare's monument. It is known to have

been erected there within seven years after his death. It consists of a

half-length effigy, placed beneath a fretted arch, with entablature and

pedestal, between two Corinthian columns of black marble, gilded at base

and top. Above the entablature appear the armorial bearings of

Shakespeare--a pointed spear on a bend sable and a silver falcon on a

tasselled helmet supporting a spear. Over this heraldic emblem is a

death's-head, and on each side of it sits a carved cherub, one holding a

spade, the other an inverted torch. In front of the effigy is a cushion,

upon which both hands rest, holding a scroll and a pen. Beneath is an

inscription in Latin and English, supposed to have been furnished by the

poet's son-in-law, Dr. Hall. The bust was cut by Gerard Jonson, a native

of Amsterdam and by occupation a "tomb-maker," who lived in Southwark

and possibly had seen the poet. The material is a soft stone, and the

work, when first set up, was painted in the colours of life. Its

peculiarities indicate that it was copied from a mask of the features

taken after death. Some persons believe (upon slender and dubious

testimony) that this mask has since been found, and busts of Shakespeare

have been based upon it, by W. R. O'Donovan and by William Page. In

September, 1764, John Ward, grandfather of Mrs. Siddons, having come to

Stratford with a theatrical company, gave a performance of _Othello, _in

the Guildhall, and devoted its proceeds to reparation of the Gerard

Jonson effigy, then somewhat damaged by time.

Illustration: "Shakespeare's Monument."

The original colours were then carefully restored and freshened. In

1793, under the direction of Malone, this bust, together with the image

of John-a-Combe--a recumbent statue upon a tomb close to the east wall

of the chancel--was coated with white paint. From that plight it was

extricated, in 1861, by the assiduous skill of Simon Collins, who

immersed it in a bath which took off the white paint and restored the

colours. The eyes are painted light hazel, the hair and pointed beard

auburn, the face and hands flesh-tint. The dress consists of a scarlet

doublet, with a rolling collar, closely buttoned down the front, worn

under a loose black gown without sleeves. The upper part of the cushion

is green, the lower part crimson, and this object is ornamented with

gilt tassels. The stone pen that used to be in the right hand of the

bust was taken from it, toward the end of the last century, by a young

Oxford student, and, being dropped by him upon the pavement, was broken.

A quill pen has been put in its place. This is the inscription beneath

the bust:--

Ivdicio Pylivm, genio Socratem, arte Maronem,

Terra tegit, popvlvs maeret, Olympvs habet.

Stay, passenger, why goest thov by so fast?

Read, if thov canst, whom enviovs Death hath plast

Within this monvment: SHAKSPEARE: with whome

Qvick Natvre dide; whose name doth deck ys tombe

Far more than cost; sieth all yt he hath writt

Leaves living art bvt page to serve his witt.

Obiit Ano. Doi. 1616. AEtatis 53. Die. 23. Ap.

The erection of the old castles, cathedrals, monasteries, and churches

of England was accomplished, little by little, with laborious toil

protracted through many years. Stratford church, probably more than

seven centuries old, presents a mixture of architectural styles, in

which Saxon simplicity and Norman grace are beautifully mingled.

Different parts of the structure were built at different times. It is

fashioned in the customary crucial form, with a square tower, an octagon

stone spire, (erected in 1764, to replace a more ancient one, made of

oak and covered with lead), and a fretted battlement all around its

roof. Its windows are diversified, but mostly Gothic. The approach to it

is across a churchyard thickly sown with graves, through a lovely green

avenue of lime-trees, leading to a porch on its north side. This avenue

of foliage is said to be the copy of one that existed there in

Shakespeare's day, through which he must often have walked, and through

which at last he was carried to his grave. Time itself has fallen asleep

in that ancient place. The low sob of the organ only deepens the awful

sense of its silence and its dreamless repose. Yews and elms grow in the

churchyard, and many a low tomb and many a leaning stone are there, in

the shadow, gray with moss and mouldering with age. Birds have built

their nests in many crevices in the timeworn tower, round which at

sunset you may see them circle, with chirp of greeting or with call of

anxious discontent. Near by flows the peaceful river, reflecting the

gray spire in its dark, silent, shining waters. In the long and lonesome

meadows beyond it the primroses stand in their golden ranks among the

clover, and the frilled and fluted bell of the cowslip, hiding its

single drop of blood in its bosom, closes its petals as the night comes

down.

Northward, at a little distance from the Church of the Holy Trinity,

stands, on the west bank of the Avon, the building that will always be

famous as the Shakespeare Memorial. The idea of the Memorial was

suggested in 1864, incidentally to the ceremonies which then

commemorated the three-hundredth anniversary of the poet's birth. Ten

years later the site for this structure was presented to the town by

Charles Edward Flower, one of its most honoured inhabitants.

Contributions of money were then asked, and were given. Americans as

well as Englishmen contributed. On April 23, 1877, the first stone of

the Memorial was laid. On April 23, 1880, the building was dedicated.

The fabric comprises a theatre, a library, and a picture-gallery. In the

theatre the plays of Shakespeare are annually represented, in a manner

as nearly perfect as possible. In the library and picture-gallery are to

be assembled all the books upon Shakespeare that have been published,

and all the choice paintings that can be obtained to illustrate his life

and his works. As the years pass this will naturally become a principal

depository of Shakespearean objects. A dramatic college may grow up, in

association with the Shakespeare theatre. The gardens that surround the

Memorial will augment their loveliness in added expanse of foliage and

in greater wealth of floral luxuriance. The mellow tinge of age will

soften the bright tints of the red brick that mainly composes the

building. On its cone-shaped turrets ivy will clamber and moss will

nestle. When a few generations have passed, the old town of Stratford

will have adopted this now youthful stranger into the race of her

venerated antiquities. The same air of poetic mystery that rests now

upon his cottage and his grave will diffuse itself around his Memorial;

and a remote posterity, looking back to the men and the ideas of to-day,

will remember with grateful pride that English-speaking people of the

nineteenth century, although they could confer no honour upon the great

name of Shakespeare, yet honoured themselves in consecrating this votive

temple to his memory.

Illustration: "Gable Window"

Shakespeare's England · 第 12 / 22 章