Being now in readiness to prosecute our voyage to St. John’s, we sat
sail in a handsome pleasure-boat, manned with four stout negro slaves,
to row in case of necessity. After passing Amelia Narrows we had a
pleasant run, across Fort George’s sound, where, observing the pelicans
fishing, Mr. Egan shot one of them, which we took into the boat. I was
greatly surprised on observing the pouch or sack, which hangs under the
bill: it is capable of being expanded to a prodigious size. One of the
people on board, said, that he had seen more than half a bushel of bran
crammed into one of their pouches. The body is larger than that of a
tame goose, the legs extremely short, the feet webbed, the bill of a
great length, bent inwards like a scythe, the wings extend near seven
feet from tip to tip, the tail is very short, the head, neck, and
breast, nearly white, the body of a light bluish grey, except the quill
feathers of the wings, which are black. They seem to be of the gull
kind, both in form and structure, as well as manner of fishing. The
evening following, we landed on the main. It was a promontory of high
land, covered with orange-trees, and projecting into the sound, forming
a convenient port. We pitched our tent under the shelter of a forest of
Live Oaks, Palms and Sweet Bays; and having in the course of the day,
procured plenty of sea fowl, such as curlews, willets, snipes, sand
birds and others, we had them dressed for supper, and seasoned with
excellent oysters, which lay in heaps in the water, close to our
landing place. The shrub Capsicum growing here in abundance, afforded
us a very good pepper: we drank of a well of fresh water just at hand,
amidst a grove of Myrtles (Myrica carefera.) Our repose however was
incomplete, from the stings of musquitoes, the roaring of crocodiles,
and the continual noise and restlessness of the sea fowl, thousands of
them having their roosting places very near us, particularly loons of
various species, herons, pelicans, Spanish curlews, &c. all
promiscuously lodging together, and in such incredible numbers, that
the trees were entirely covered. They roost in inaccessible islets in
the salt marshes, surrounded by lagoons, and shallow water. Just
without the trees, betwixt them, the water and marshes, is a barricade
of Palmetto royal (Yucca gloriosa) or Adam’s needle, which grows so
thick together, that a rat or bird can scarcely pass through them; and
the stiff leaves of this Sword plant, standing nearly horizontally, are
as impenetrable to man, or any other animal, as if they were a regiment
of grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. The Palmetto royal
is, however, a very singular and beautiful production. It may be termed
a tree, from its durability and magnitude, as likewise from the
ligneous quality of its stem, or trunk, when old; yet from its form and
texture, I should be inclined to rank it amongst the herbaceous plants,
for even the glorious Palm, although it rises to the altitude of a
tree, and even transcends most of them, yet it bears the characters of
the herbaceous ones: and this, like the Palm tree, rises with a
straight, erect stem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with a
beautiful chaplet of sword or dagger-like leaves, of a perfect green
colour, each terminated with a stiff, sharp spur, and their edges
finely crenated. This thorny crown is crested with a pyramid of silver
white flowers, each resembling a tulip or lily. These flowers are
succeeded by a large fruit, nearly of the form and size of a slender
cucumber, which, when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the skin smooth
and shining, its pulp soft, very juicy, and of an agreeable aromatic
flavour but rather bitter to the taste; it is, however, frequently
eaten, but if eaten to excess, proves violently purgative. The seeds
are numerous, flat and lunated.
The plant, or tree, when grown old, sometimes divides into two or three
stems, which seem of equal height and thickness, and indeed nearly of
the same thickness with the main stem; but generally, when they arrive
to this age and magnitude, their own weight brings them to the ground,
where they soon decay, the heart or pith first, leaving a hollow
fibrous reticulated trunk or sleeve, which likewise soon after decays,
and, in fine, all is again reduced to its original earth, and replaces
the vegetative mould. But the deceased are soon replaced by others, as
there are younger ones of all ages and stature, ready to succeed their
predecessors, and flourish for a time, with the same regal pomp and
splendour. These plants are so multitudinous, whereever they get a
footing, that the earth is completely occupied with them, and scarcely
any other vegetable is to be seen, where they are; yet they are
sometimes scattered amongst other trees and vegetables.
In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived at the Cow-ford, a
public ferry, over St. John’s, about thirty miles above the bar or
capes, the river here being above a mile wide.
Mr. Egan, after procuring a neat little sail-boat for me, at a large
indigo plantation near the ferry, and for which I paid three guineas,
departed for St. Augustine, which is on the sea-coast about forty-five
miles over land.
It was now about the middle of April. Vegetation appearing every where
in high progress, I was anxious to be advancing southerly; and having
at this plantation, stored myself with necessaries for my voyage, I
sailed in the morning with a fair wind. I was now again alone, for the
young man, my fellow traveller, though stouter and heartier than
myself, having repented of his promise to accompany me to the Indian
trading houses, I suppose not relishing the hardships and dangers,
which might perhaps befall us, chose rather to stay behind, amongst the
settlements. His leaving me, however, I did not greatly regret, as I
could not consider it a disappointment much to my disadvantage at the
moment. Our views were probably totally opposite; he, a young mechanic
on his adventures, seemed to be actuated by no other motives, than
either to establish himself in some well-inhabited part of the country,
where, by following his occupation, he might be enabled to procure,
without much toil and danger, the necessaries and conveniencies of
life; or by industry and frugality, perhaps establish his fortune.
Whilst I, continually impelled by a restless spirit of curiosity, in
pursuit of new productions of nature, my chief happiness consisted in
tracing and admiring the infinite power, majesty and perfection of the
great Almighty Creator, and in the contemplation, that through divine
aid and permission, I might be instrumental in discovering, and
introducing into my native country, some original productions of
nature, which might become useful to society. Each of our pursuits were
perhaps equally laudable; and, upon this supposition, I was quite
willing to part with him upon amicable terms.
My little vessel being furnished with a good sail, and having fishing
tackle, a neat light fusee, powder and ball, I found myself well
equipped, for my voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading house.
I crossed the river to a high promontory of wood-land, on the west
shore, and being struck with the magnificence of a venerable grove of
Live Oak, Palms and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I stepped on shore to
take a view of the place. Orange trees were in full bloom, and filled
the air with fragrance.
It was now past noon, and this place being about eight miles above the
Cow-ford, and the river near three miles in breadth, I wanted to reach
a plantation in sight on the opposite shore, in order to get some
repairs, my vessel having sustained some damage from the violence of
the wind, in crossing over. I arrived late in the evening, and finding
a convenient landing place and harbour, I concluded to remain here till
morning, and then coast it close along shore to the plantation.
It beginning to thunder, I was sufficiently warned to prepare against a
wet night; and observing a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown
down by a hurricane and offered me a convenient shelter, as its
enormous limbs bore up the trunk a sufficient height from the earth to
admit me to sit or lie down under it, I spread my sail, slanting from
the trunk of the tree to the ground, on the windward side; and having
collected a quantity of wood, sufficient to keep up a fire, during the
night, I struck one up in front, and spreading skins on the ground, and
upon these placing a blanket, one half I lay down upon, turning the
other over me for a covering.
The storm came up, with a furious wind and tremendous thunder and
lightning, from the opposite N. W. coast, but luckily for me, little
rain fell, and I rested very well. But as the wind next morning blew
very fresh, right in upon the shore, there was no possibility of
moving, with safety, from my present situation. I however arose to
reconnoitre the ground round about my habitation, being roused by the
report of a musquet not far off. I had not left sight of my encampment,
following a winding path through a grove of Live Oak, Laurel (Magn.
grandiflora) and Sapindus, before an Indian stepped out of a thicket,
and crossed the path just before me, having a large turkey cock slung
across his shoulders: he saw me, and stepping up and smiling, spoke to
me in English, bidding me good morning. I saluted him with “It’s well
brother,” led him to my camp, and treated him with a dram. This
friendly Indian informed me that he lived at the next plantation,
employed as a hunter. I asked him how far it was to the house, he
answered about half a mile by land, and invited me to go there, telling
me that his master was a very good, kind man, and would be glad to see
me. I replied, that I would, if my boat and effects in the mean time
could be safe. He said that he would immediately return to the house,
and acquaint his master with it, who would send trusty negroes to bring
my vessel round the point, to the landing. I thanked him for his
civility, and not willing to be troublesome, I told him I would leave
my boat, and follow after him; so taking my fusee on my shoulder, and
after dragging my bark as high up on shore as I could, I followed the
Indian, and soon reached the house.
The gentleman received me in the most polite manner; and, after hearing
my situation, he requested me to make my abode with him a few days, to
rest and refresh myself. I thanked him, and told him I would stay a
day. He immediately sent slaves who brought my boat round, and having
carpenters at work, on a new building, he sat them about repairing my
vessel, which by night was completely refitted.
I spent the day in the most agreeable manner, in the society of this
man of singular worth. He led me over his extensive improvements, and
we returned in company with several of his neighbours. In the
afternoon, the most sultry time of the day, we retired to the fragrant
shades of an Orange grove. The house was situated on an eminence, about
one hundred and fifty yards, from the river. On the right hand was the
Orangery, consisting of many hundred trees, natives of the place, and
left standing, when the ground about it was cleared. These trees where
large, flourishing and in perfect bloom, and loaded with their ripe
golden fruit. On the other side was a spacious garden, occupying a
regular slope of ground down to the water; and a pleasant lawn lay
between. Here were large plantations of the Indigo plant, which
appeared in a very thriving condition: it was then about five or six
inches high, growing in straight parallel rows, about eighteen inches
apart. The Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Convolv. Batata) were greatly
advanced in growth, and promised a plentiful crop. The Indigo made in
East Florida is esteemed almost equal to the best Spanish, especially
that sort which they call Flora. Mr. Marshall presented me with a
specimen of his own manufacture, at this plantation: it was very
little, if any, inferior to the best Prussian blue.
In the morning following, intimating my intentions of proceeding on my
voyage, Mr. Marshall again importuned me to stay; but I obtained his
consent to depart, on my promising to visit him at my return to
Georgia. After breakfast I therefore took my leave, attended to the
shore by several slaves, loaded with ammunition and provisions, which
my friend had provided for me. On my expressing some difficulty in
receiving so large a share of his bounty, he civilly replied, that it
was too little to mention, and that, if I had continued with him a day
or two longer, he should have had time to have served me in a much
better manner.
Taking my leave of Mr. Marshall, I again embarked alone on board my
little vessel, and blessed with a favourable steady gale, I set sail.
The day was extremely pleasant, the late thunder storm had purified the
air, by disuniting and dissipating the noxious vapours. The falling of
heavy showers, with thunder, and brisk winds, from the cool regions of
the N. W. contributes greatly towards restoring the salubrity of the
air, and purity of the waters, by precipitating the putrescent scum,
that rises from the bottom, and floats upon the surface, near the
shores of the rivers, in these southern climates, during the hot
seasons. The shores of this great river St. Juan, are very level and
shoal, extending in some places, a mile or two into the river, betwixt
the high land, and the clear waters of the river, which is so level, as
to be covered not above a foot or two deep, with water, and at a little
distance appears as a green meadow, having water-grass and other
amphibious vegetables growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the
water.
Having a lively leading breeze, I kept as near the east shore, as
possible, often surprised by the plunging of alligators, and greatly
delighted with the pleasing prospect of cultivation, and the increase
of human industry, which frequently struck my view from the elevated,
distant shores.
At night I ran in shore, at a convenient harbour, where I was received
and welcomed by the gentleman, who was agent for the plantation, and at
whose pleasant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my quarters for
the night.
This very civil man, happened to be a person with whom I had formerly
been acquainted in St. Augustine; and as he lived about twenty miles
distant from it, I had good reason to expect that he would be a proper
person, to obtain intelligence from, concerning the disturbances, which
were thought still to subsist, between the Lower Creeks and the white
inhabitants of East Florida. Upon enquiry, and conversation with him, I
found my conjectures on that head to have been well founded. My friend
informed me, that there had, but a few days since, been a council held
at St. Augustine, between the governor of East Florida and the chiefs
of the Lower Creeks. They had been delegated by their towns, to make
enquiry concerning the late alarm and depredations committed by the
Indians upon the traders; which the nation being apprised of,
recommended these deputies to be chosen and sent, as soon as possible,
in order to make reasonable concessions, before the flame, already
kindled, should spread into a general war. The parties accordingly met
in St. Augustine, and the affair was amicacably adjusted to the
satisfaction of both parties. The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whose
young warriors had commited the mischief, promissed to indemnify the
traders for the loss of their goods, and requested that they might
return to their store-house, with goods as usual, and that they should
be safe in their persons and property. The traders at this time, were
actually preparing to return. It appeared, upon a strict investigation
of facts, that the affair had taken its rise from the licentious
conduct of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole nation, who,
imagining themselves to have been ill treated in their dealings with
the traders (which by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this
violent method of doing themselves justice. The culprits however
endeavoured to exculpate themselves, by asserting, that they had no
design or intention of robbing the traders of their effects, but meant
it only as a threat; and that the traders, from a conciousness of their
dishonesty, had been terrified and fled, leaving their stores, which
they took possession of, to prevent their being totally lost. This
troublesome affair being adjusted, was very agreeable news to me, as I
could now, without apprehensions, ascend this grand river, and visit
its delightful shores, where and when I pleased.
Bidding adieu to my obliging friend, I spread my sail to the favourable
breeze, and by noon came to abreast of fort Picolata; where, being
desirous of gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed; but, to my
disappointment, found the fort dismantled and deserted. This fortress
is very ancient, and was built by the Spaniards. It is a square tower,
thirty feet high, invested with a high wall, without bastions, about
breast high, pierced with loop holes and surrounded with a deep ditch.
The upper story is open on each side, with battlements, supporting a
cupola or roof: these battlements were formerly mounted with eight four
pounders, two on each side.
The works are constructed with hewn stone, cemented with lime. The
stone was cut out of quarries, on St. Anastatius Island, opposite St.
Augustine: it is of a pale reddish brick colour, and a testaceous
composition, consisting of small fragments of sea-shells and fine sand.
It is well adapted to the constructing of fortifications. It lies in
horizontal masses in the quarry, and constitutes the foundation of that
island. The castle at St. Augustine, and most of the buildings of the
town, are of this stone.
Leaving Picolata, I continued to ascend the river. I observed this day,
during my progress up the river, incredible numbers of small flying
insects, of the genus, termed by naturalists, Ephemera, continually
emerging from the shallow water, near shore, some of them immediately
taking their flight to the land, whilst myriads crept up the grass and
herbage, where remaining for a short time, as they acquired sufficient
strength, they took their flight also, following their kindred to the
main land. This resurrection from the deep, if I may so express it,
commences early in the morning, and ceases after the sun is up. At
evening they are seen in clouds of innumerable millions, swarming and
wantoning in the still air, gradually drawing near the river. They
descend upon its surface, and there quickly end their day, after
committing their eggs to the deep; which being for a little while
tossed about, enveloped in a viscid scum, are hatched, and the little
Larva descend into their secure and dark habitation, in the oozy bed
beneath, where they remain gradually increasing in size, until the
returning spring: they then change to a Nymph, when the genial heat
brings them, as it were, into existence, and they again arise into the
world. This fly seems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and fish.
In the morning, when they arise, and in the evening, when they return,
the tumult is great indeed, and the surface of the water along shore
broken into bubbles, or spirted into the air, by the contending aquatic
tribes; and such is the avidity of the fish and frogs, that they spring
into the air, after this delicious prey.
Early in the evening, after a pleasant day’s voyage, I made a
convenient and safe harbour, in a little lagoon, under an elevated
bank, on the west shore of the river; where I shall entreat the
reader’s patience, whilst we behold the closing scene of the
short-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each other the reflections
which so singular an exhibition might rationally suggest to an
inquisitive mind. Our place of observation is happily situated under
the protecting shade of majestic Live Oaks, glorious Magnolias and the
fragrant Orange, open to the view of the great river and still waters
of the lagoon just before us.
At the cool eve’s approach, the sweet enchanting melody of the
feathered songsters gradually ceases, and they betake themselves to
their leafy coverts for security and repose.
Solemnly and slowly move onward, to the river’s shore, the rustling
clouds of the Ephemera. How awful the procession! innumerable millions
of winged beings, voluntarily verging on to destruction, to the brink
of the grave, where they behold bands of their enemies with wide open
jaws, ready to receive them. But as if insensible of their danger, gay
and tranquil each meets his beloved mate, in the still air, inimitably
bedecked in their new nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their
varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and fluttering on the
odoriferous air? With what peace, love, and joy, do they end the last
moments of their existence?
I think we may assert, without any fear of exaggeration, that there are
annually of these beautiful winged beings, which rise into existence,
and for a few moments take a transient view of the glory of the
Creator’s works, a number greater than the whole race of mankind that
have ever existed since the creation; and that, only from the shores of
this river. How many then must have been produced since the creation,
when we consider the number of large rivers in America, in comparison
with which, this river is but a brook or rivulet.
The importance of the existence of these beautiful and delicately
formed little creatures, whose frame and organization is equally
wonderful, more delicate, and perhaps as complicated as those of the
most perfect human being, is well worth a few moments contemplation; I
mean particularly when they appear in the fly state. And it we consider
the very short period of that stage of existence, which we may
reasonably suppose to be the only space of their life that admits of
pleasure and enjoyment, what a lesson doth it not afford us of the
vanity of our own pursuits!
Their whole existence in this world is but one complete year: and at
least three hundred and sixty days of that time they are in the form of
an ugly grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water, and in this
condition scarcely locomotive, as each Larva or grub has but its own
narrow solitary cell, from which it never travels or moves, but in a
perpendicular progression of a few inches, up and down, from the bottom
to the surface of the mud, in order to intercept the passing atoms for
its food, and get a momentary respiration of fresh air; and even here
it must be perpetually on its guard, in order to escape the troops of
fish and shrimps watching to catch it, and from whom it has no escape,
but by instantly retreating back into its cell. One would be apt almost
to imagine them created merely for the food of fish and other animals.
Having rested very well during the night, I was awakened in the morning
early, by the cheering converse of the wild turkey-cock (Meleagris
occidentalis) saluting each other, from the sun-brightened tops of the
lofty Cupressus disticha and Magnolia grandiflora. They begin at early
dawn, and continue till sunrise, from March to the last of April. The
high forests ring with the noise, like the crowing of the domestic
cock, of these social centinels, the watch-word being caught and
repeated, from one to another, for hundreds of miles around; insomuch
that the whole country is for an hour or more in an universal shout. A
little after sunrise, their crowing gradually ceases, they quit their
high lodging places, and alight on the earth, where expanding their
silver bordered train, they strut and dance round about the coy female,
while the deep forests seem to tremble with their shrill noise.
This morning the winds on the great river were high and against me; I
was therefore obliged to keep in port a great part of the day, which I
employed in little excursions round about my encampment. The Live Oaks
are of an astonishing magnitude, and one tree contains a prodigious
quantity of timber, yet, comparatively, they are not tall, even in
these forests, where growing on strong land, in company with others of
great altitude (such as Fagus sylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnolia
grandiflora, and the high Palm tree) they strive while young to be upon
an equality with their neighbours, and to enjoy the influence of the
sun-beams, and of the pure animating air; but the others at last
prevail, and their proud heads are seen at a great distance, towering
far above the rest of the forest, which consists chiefly of this
species of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus, Acer rubrum, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus
dentata, Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus, Gleditsia triacanthus,
and, I believe, a species of Sapindus. But the latter spreads abroad
his brawny arms, to a great distance. The trunk of the Live Oak is
generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt, and rises ten or twelve
feet erect from the earth, some I have seen eighteen or twenty; then
divides itself into three, four, or five great limbs, which continue to
grow in nearly an horizontal direction, each limb forming a gentle
curve, or arch, from its base to its extremity. I have stepped above
fifty paces, on a straight line, from the trunk of one of these trees,
to the extremity of the limbs. It is ever green, and the wood almost
incorruptible, even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantity of
fruit; the acorn is small, but sweet and agreeable to the taste when
roasted, and is food for almost all animals. The Indians obtain from it
a sweet oil, which they use in the cooking of hommony, rice, &c. and
they also roast them in hot embers, eating them as we do chesnuts.
The wind being fair in the evening, I sat sail again, and crossing the
river, made a good harbour on the east shore, where I pitched my tent
for the night. The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen feet
perpendicular, from its surface, but the ascent gentle. Although I
arrived here early in the evening, I found sufficient attractions to
choose it for my lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical
employment. It was a high, airy situation, and commanded an extensive
and varied prospect of the river and its shores, up and down.
Behold yon promontory, projecting far into the great river, beyond the
still lagoon, half a mile distance from me: what a magnificent grove
arises on its banks! how glorious the Palm! how majestically stands the
Laurel, its head forming a perfect cone! its dark green foliage seems
silvered over with milk-white flowers. They are so large, as to be
distinctly visible at the distance of a mile or more. The Laurel
Magnolias, which grow on this river are the most beautiful and tall
that I have any where seen, unless we except those, which stand on the
banks of the Missisippi; yet even these must yield to those of St.
Juan, in neatness of form, beauty of foliage, and I think, in largeness
and fragrance of flower. Their usual height is about one hundred feet,
and some greatly exceed that. The trunk is perfectly erect, rising in
the form of a beautiful column, and supporting a head like a an obtuse
cone. The flowers are on the extremities of the subdivisions of the
branches, in the centre of a coronet of dark green, shining, ovate
pointed entire leaves: they are large, perfectly white, and expanded
like a full blown Rose. They are polypetalous, consisting of fifteen,
twenty, or twenty-five petals: these are of a thick coriaceous texture,
and deeply concave, their edges being somewhat reflex, when mature. In
the centre stands the young cone, which is large, of a flesh colour,
and elegantly studded with a gold coloured stigma, that by the end of
summer is greatly enlarged, and in the autumn ripens to a large crimson
cone or strobile, disclosing multitudes of large coral red berries,
which for a time hang down from them, suspended by a fine, white, silky
thread, four, six, or even nine inches in length. The flowers of this
tree are the largest and most complete of any yet known: when fully
expanded, they are of six, eight, and nine inches diameter. The
pericarpium and berries, possess an agreeable spicy scent, and an
aromatic bitter taste. The wood when seasoned is of a straw colour,
compact, and harder and firmer than that of the Poplar.
It is really astonishing to behold the Grape-Vines in this place. From
their bulk and strength, one would imagine they were combined to pull
down these mighty trees to the earth, when, in fact, amongst other good
purposes, they serve to uphold them. They are frequently nine, ten, and
twelve inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of the trees,
climb to their very tops, and then spread along their limbs, from tree
to tree, throughout the forest: the fruit is but small and ill tasted.
The Grape vines with the Rhamnus volubilis, Bignonia radicans, Bignonia
crucigera, and another rambling shrubby vine, which seems allied to the
Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus scandens, seem to tie the trees together with
garlands and festoons, and form enchanting shades. The long moss, so
called, (Tillandsea usneoides), is a singular and surprising vegetable
production: it grows from the limbs and twigs of all trees in these
southern regions, from N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe
every where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itself, on a limb, or
branch, it spreads into short and intricate divarications; these in
time collect dust, wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moisture
it absorbs, softens the bark and sappy part of the tree, about the
roots of the plant, and renders it more fit for it to establish itself;
and from this small beginning, it increases, by sending downwards and
obliquely, on all sides, long pendant branches, which divide and
subdivide themselves ad infinitum. It is common to find the spaces,
betwixt the limbs of large trees, almost occupied by this plant: it
also hangs waving in the wind, like streamers, from the lower limbs, to
the length of fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight, more than
several men together could carry; and in some places, cart loads of it
are lying on the ground, torn off by the violence of the wind. Any part
of the living plant, torn off and caught in the limbs of a tree, will
presently take root, grow and increase, in the same degree of
perfection, as if it had sprung up from the seed. When fresh, cattle
and deer will eat it in the winter season. It seems particularly
adapted to the purpose of stuffing mattrasses, chairs, saddles,
collars, &c.; and for these purposes, nothing yet known equals it. The
Spaniards in South America and the West-Indies, work it into cables,
that are said to be very strong and durable; but, in order to render it
useful, it ought to be thrown into shallow ponds of water, and exposed
to the sun, where it soon rots, and the outside furry substance is
dissolved. It is then taken out of the water, and spread to dry; when,
after a little beating and shaking, it is sufficiently clean, nothing
remaining but the interior, hard, black, elastic filament, entangled
together, and greatly resembling horse-hair.
The Zanthoxilum clava Herculis also grows here. It is a beautiful
spreading tree, and much like a well grown apple-tree. Its aromatic
berry is delicious food for the little turtle dove; and epicures say
that it gives their flesh a fine flavour.
Having finished my observation, I betook myself to rest; and when the
plunging and roaring of the crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs,
had ceased, I slept very well during the remainder of the night; as a
breeze from the river had scattered the clouds of musquitoes that at
first infested me.
It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I sat sail early, and saw,
this day, vast quantities of the Pistia stratiotes, a very singular
aquatic plant. It associates in large communities, or floating islands,
some of them a quarter of a mile in extent, which are impelled to and
fro, as the wind and current may direct. They are first produced on, or
close to, the shore, in eddy water, where they gradually spread
themselves into the river, forming most delightful green plains,
several miles in length, and in some places a quarter of a mile in
breadth. These plants are nourished and kept in their proper horizontal
situation, by means of long fibrous roots, which descend from the
nether centre, downwards, towards the muddy bottom. Each plant, when
full grown, bears a general resemblance to a well grown plant of garden
lettuce, though the leaves are more nervous, of a firmer contexture,
and of a full green colour, inclining to yellow. It vegetates on the
surface of the still stagnant water, and in its natural situation, is
propagated from seed only. In great storms of wind and rain, when the
river is suddenly raised, large masses of these floating plains are
broken loose, and driven from the shores, into the wide water, where
they have the appearance of islets, and float about, until broken to
pieces by the winds and waves; or driven again to shore, on some
distant coast of the river, where they again find footing, and there,
forming new colonies, spread and extend themselves again, until again
broken up and dispersed as before. These floating islands present a
very entertaining prospect: for although we behold an assemblage of the
primary productions of nature only, yet the imagination seems to remain
in suspence and doubt; as in order to enliven the delusion, and form a
most picturesque appearance, we see not only flowery plants, clumps of
shrubs, old weather-beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long moss
waving from their snags, but we also see them completely inhabited, and
alive, with crocodiles, serpents, frogs, otters, crows, herons,
curlews, jackdaws, &c. There seems, in short, nothing wanted but the
appearance of a wigwam and a canoe to complete the scene.
Keeping along the west or Indian shore, I saw basking on the sedgy
banks, numbers of alligators[16], some of them of an enormous size.
The high forests on this coast, now wore a grand and sublime
appearance; the earth rising gradually from the river westward, by easy
swelling ridges, behind one another, lifting the distant groves up into
the skies. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the grand Laurel
Magnolia, Palm elata, Liquidambar styraciflua, Fagus sylvatica, Querci,
Juglans hiccory, Fraxinus, and others.
On my doubling a long point of land, the river appeared surprisingly
widened, forming a large bay, of an oval form, and several miles in
extent. On the west side it was bordered round with low marshes, and
invested with a swamp of Cypress, the trees so lofty, as to preclude
the sight of the high-land forests, beyond them; and these trees,
having flat tops, and all of equal height, seemed to be a green plain,
lifted up and supported upon columns in the air, round the west side of
the bay.
The Cupressus disticha stands in the first order of North American
trees. Its majestic stature is surprising; and on approaching it, we
are struck with a kind of awe, at beholding the stateliness of the
trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the skies, and casting a wide
shade upon the ground, as a dark intervening cloud, which, for a time,
excludes the rays of the sun. The delicacy of its colour, and texture
of its leaves, exceed every thing in vegetation. It generally grows in
the water, or in low flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and
lakes, that are covered, great part of the year, with two or three feet
depth of water; and that part of the trunk which is subject to be under
water, and four or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged by
prodigious buttresses, or pilasters, which, in full grown trees,
project out on every side, to such a distance, that several men might
easily hide themselves in the hollows between. Each pilaster terminates
under ground, in a very large, strong, serpentine root, which strikes
off, and branches every way, just under the surface of the earth: and
from these roots grow woody cones, called cypress knees, four, five,
and six feet high, and from six to eighteen inches and two feet in
diameter at their bases. The large ones are hollow, and serve very well
for beehives; a small space of the tree itself is hollow, nearly as
high as the buttresses already mentioned. From this place the tree, as
it were, takes another beginning, forming a grand straight column
eighty or ninety feet high, when it divides every way around into an
extensive flat horizontal top, like an umbrella, where eagles have
their secure nests, and cranes and storks their temporary
resting-places; and what adds to the magnificence of their appearance
is the streamers of long moss that hang from the lofty limbs and float
in the winds. This is their majestic appearance when standing alone, in
large rice plantations, or thinly planted on the banks of great rivers.
Parroquets are commonly seen hovering and fluttering on their tops:
they delight to shell the balls, its seed being their favourite food.
The trunks of these trees, when hollowed out, make large and durable
pettiaugers and canoes, and afford excellent shingles, boards, and
other timber, adapted to every purpose in frame buildings. When the
planters fell these mighty trees, they raise a stage round them, as
high as to reach above the buttresses; on this stage, eight or ten
negroes ascend with their axes, and fall to work round its trunk. I
have seen trunks of these trees that would measure eight, ten, and
twelve feet in diameter, for forty and fifty feet straight shaft.
As I continued coasting the Indian shore of this bay, on doubling a
promontory, I suddenly saw before me an Indian settlement, or village.
It was a fine situation, the bank rising gradually from the water.
There were eight or ten habitations, in a row, or street, fronting the
water, and about fifty yards distance from it. Some of the youth were
naked, up to their hips in the water, fishing with rods and lines;
whilst others, younger, were diverting themselves in shooting frogs
with bows and arrows. On my near approach, the little children took to
their heels, and ran to some women who were hoeing corn; but the
stouter youth stood their ground, and, smiling, called to me. As I
passed along, I observed some elderly people reclined on skins spread
on the ground, under the cool shade of spreading Oaks and Palms, that
were ranged in front of their houses: they arose, and eyed me as I
passed, but perceiving that I kept on without stopping, they resumed
their former position. They were civil, and appeared happy in their
situation.
There was a large Orange grove at the upper end of their village; the
trees were large, carefully pruned, and the ground under them clean,
open, and airy. There seemed to be several hundred acres of cleared
land, about the village; a considerable portion of which was planted,
chiefly with corn (Zea), Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squashes, (Cucurbita
verrucosa), Melons (Cucurbita citrullus), Tobacco (Nicotiana), &c.
abundantly sufficient for the inhabitants of the village.
After leaving this village, and coasting a considerable cove of the
lake, I percieved the river before me much contracted within its late
bounds, but still retaining the appearance of a wide and deep river,
both coasts bordered for several miles with rich deep swamps, well
timbered with Cypress, Ash, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyssa
aquatica, Nyssa tupilo, Gordonia lasianthus, Corypha palma, Corypha
pumila, Laurus Borbonia, &c. The river gradually narrowing, I came in
sight of Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide, but deep;
and as there was a considerable current against me, I came here to an
anchor. This town was founded by Den. Rolle, esq. and is situated on a
high bluff, on the east coast, fifteen or twenty feet perpendicular
from the river, and is in length half a mile, or more, upon its banks.
The upper stratum of the earth consists entirely of several species of
fresh water Cochleæ, as Coch. helix, Coch. labyrinthus, and Coch.
voluta; the second, of marine shells, as Concha mytulus, Conc. ostrea,
Conc. peeton, Haliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, &c. mixed with sea
sand; and the third, or lower stratum, which was a little above the
comman level of the river, was horizontal masses of a pretty hard rock,
composed almost entirely of the above shell, generally whole, and lying
in every direction, petrefied or cemented together, with fine white
sand; and these rocks were bedded in a stratum of clay. I saw many
fragments of the earthen ware of the ancient inhabitants, and bones of
animals, amongst the shells, and mixed with the earth, to a great
depth. This high shelly bank continues, by gentle parallel ridges, near
a quarter of a mile back from the river, gradually diminishing to the
level of the sandy plains, which widen before and on each side
eastward, to a seemingly unlimited distance, and appear green and
delightful, being covered with grass and the Corypha repens, and thinly
planted with trees of the long-leaved, or Broom Pine, and decorated
with clumps, or coppices of floriferous, evergreen, and aromatic
shrubs, and enamelled with patches of the beautiful little Kalmia
ciliata. These shelly ridges have a vegetable surface of loose black
mould, very fertile, which naturally produces Orange groves, Live Oak,
Laurus Borbonia, Palma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, Liquidambar,
Fraxinus exelsior, Morus rubra, Ulmus, Tilia, Sambucus, Ptelea,
Tallow-nut, or Wild Lime, and many others.
Mr. Rolle obtained from the crown a grant of forty thousand acres of
land, in any part of East Florida, where the land was unlocated. It
seems, his views were to take up his grant near St. Mark’s, in the bay
of Aplatchi; and he sat sail from England, with about one hundred
families, for that place; but by contrary winds, and stress of weather,
he missed his aim; and being obliged to put into St. Juan’s, he, with
some of the principal of his adherents, ascended the river in a boat,
and being struck with its majesty, the grand situations of its banks,
and fertility of its lands, and at the same time, considering the
extensive navigation of the river, and its near vicinity to St.
Augustine, the capital and seat of government, he altered his views on
St. Mark’s, and suddenly determined on this place, where he landed his
first little colony. But it seems, from an ill-concerted plan in its
infant establishment, negligence, or extreme parsimony in sending
proper recruits, and other necessaries, together with a bad choice of
citizens, the settlement by degrees grew weaker, and at length totally
fell to the ground. Those of them who escaped the constant contagious
fevers, fled the dreaded place, betaking themselves for subsistence to
the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia and Carolina.
The remaining old habitations are mouldering to earth, except the
mansion house, which is a large frame building, of cypress wood, yet in
tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overseer and his family. There is
also a blacksmith with his shop and family, at a small distance from
it. The most valuable district belonging to Mr. Rolle’s grant, lies on
Dunn’s lake, and on a little river, which runs from it into St. Juan.
This district consists of a vast body of rich swamp land, fit for the
growth of rice, and some very excellent high land surrounding it. Large
swamps of excellent rice land are also situated on the west shore of
the river, opposite to Charlotia.
The aborigines of America had a very great town in this place, as
appears from the great tumuli, and conical mounts of earth and shells,
and other traces of a settlement which yet remain. There grew in the
old fields on these heights great quantities of Callicarpa, and of the
beautiful shrub Annona: the flowers of the latter are large, white, and
sweet scented.
Having obtained from the people here directions for discovering the
little remote island where the traders and their goods were secreted,
which was about seven miles higher up, I sat sail again, with a fair
wind, and in about one hour and an half arrived at the desired place,
having fortunately taken the right channel of the river, amongst a
multitude of others, occasioned by a number of low swampy islands. But
I should have run by the landing, if the centinels had not by chance
seen me drawing near them; and who perceiving that I was a white man,
ventured to hail me; upon which I immediately struck sail, and came to.
Upon my landing they conducted me to their encampment, forty or fifty
yards from the river, in an almost impenetrable thicket. Upon my
enquiry, they confirmed the accounts of the amicable treaty at St.
Augustine, and in consequence thereof, they had already removed great
part of the goods, to the trading-house, which was a few miles higher
up, on the Indian shore. They showed me my chest, which had been
carefully preserved, and upon inspection I found every thing in good
order. Having learned from them, that all the effects would, in a few
days time, be removed to the store-house, I bid adieu to them, and in a
little time arrived at the trading-house, where I was received with
great politeness, and treated, during a residence of several months,
with the utmost civility and friendship, by Mr. C. M’Latche, Messrs.
Spalding and Kelsall’s agent.
The river almost from Charlotia, and for near twelve miles higher up,
is divided into many channels by a great number of islands.
[16] I have made use of the terms alligator and crocodile
indiscriminately for this animal, alligator being the country name.