CHAPTER I._Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee Country, the Extensive Territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the Country of the Chactaws. Containing an Account of the Soil and Natural Productions of Those Regions, Together With Observations on the Manners of the Indians.

[Illustration]

TRAVELS

THROUGH

NORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA,

GEORGIA,

EAST AND WEST FLORIDA,

THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY,

THE EXTENSIVE TERRITORIES OF THE MUSCOGULGES,

OR CREEK CONFEDERACY,

AND THE COUNTRY OF THE CHACTAWS.

CONTAINING

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SOIL AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF THOSE REGIONS,

TOGETHER WITH

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS OF THE INDIANS.

EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES.

By WILLIAM BARTRAM.

THE SECOND EDITION IN LONDON.

PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED BY JAMES AND JOHNSON. 1791.

LONDON:

REPRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, IN ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD.

1794.

Contents

PART I.

INTRODUCTION.

CHAPTER I.

The Author embarks at Philadelphia—arrives at Charleston.

CHAPTER II.

Embarks again for Georgia and arrives at Savanna—proceeds southward and

arrives at Sunbury—observations on the town, harbour, and the island of

St. Catharine, its soil and productions—account of the establishment of

St. John’s district and Midway meeting-house—description of a beautiful

fish—proceeds for the river Alatamaha, description of a tremendous

thunder storm.

CHAPTER III.

Crosses the river at Fort Barrington and arrives at St. Ille—passes the

frontier settlements and meets an hostile Indian—crosses the river St.

Mary and arrives at the trading-house, account of the country

thereabout, its natural productions, of the lake Ouaquaphenogaw, said

to be the source of the river St. Mary—returns to the Alatamaha and

thence to Savanna.

CHAPTER IV.

Sets off from Savanna to Augusta, one hundred sixty-five miles

North-West from the sea coast—describes the face of the country, the

river Savanna, the cataracts and village of Augusta—congress with the

Indians at St. Augusta—the village of Wrightsborough on Little

River—monuments of an ancient Indian town on Little River—Buffaloe

Lick—begins the survey of the New Purchase—high proof of Indian

sagacity—returns to Savanna.

CHAPTER V.

The Author leaves Broughton island and ascends the Alatamaha—night

scene—a tempest—description of the river—ruins of an ancient

fortification—Indian monuments at the Oakmulge fields—Creeks, account

of their settlement in Georgia.

PART II.

CHAPTER I.

Sets off from Savanna to East Florida, proceeding by land to the

Alatamaha—descends that river to Frederica on the island of St.

Simon’s—describes the island and the city.

CHAPTER II.

Leaves Frederica for the lower trading-house on St. Juan’s—passes

through and describes the sound, &c.

CHAPTER III.

Leaves Amelia island and arrives at the Cowford, on the river St.

Juan’s—proceeds up the river alone in a small canoe; suffers by a gale

of wind in crossing the river; is hospitably entertained at a

gentleman’s house, where he refits and sails again—describes fort

Picolata—various productions, viz. Magnolia grandiflora, Tillandsia

usneadscites, floating fields of the Pistia stratiotes, the river and

country, touches at Charlotteville—arrives at the lower trading-house.

CHAPTER IV.

Proceeds farther up the river—passes by Mount Hope, and comes to at

Mount Royal—describes the mount, Indian highway, &c.—beautiful

landscape of the country and prospect of the lake—enters Lake

George—description of the lake—forced by stress of weather to put into

the beautiful isle Edelano, description of the island, ancient Indian

town, mount and highway—crosses over the lake and arrives at the upper

trading-house.

CHAPTER V.

Provides for continuing his voyage higher up the river, engages an

Indian to assist in navigating his bark, and sets sail, the Indian

becomes tired and requests to be set on shore—encamps at a delightful

Orange grove—continues again alone up the river: description of the

Palma Elate: enters the Little Lake and comes to camp at an Orange

grove—sight of alligators; a battle with them; great embarrassments

with them; kills one: vast assemblage of fish: description of the

alligator and their nests, &c.—describes the Carica papaya—a very

curious bird—in danger of being taken napping by a huge crocodile—the

banks of the river admirably ornamented with festoons and tapestry, the

work of nature—sepulchres of the ancients—a hurricane—visits a

plantation on the banks of the Long Lake; description of the lake, a

large sulphureous fountain—account of the founding and present state of

New Smyrna, on the Musquitoe river—returns down the river—East

Lake—curious birds and a beautiful fish—leaves Cedar Point, touches at

the isle of Palms; robbed by a wolf—arrives at Six Mile Springs—an

account of that admirable fountain—describes the Gordonia, Zamia,

Cactus opuntia, Erythrina, Cacalia, &c.—touches at Rocky Point—arrives

again at the lower trading-house.

CHAPTER VI.

Proceeds on a journey to Cuscowilla—describes the country and

waters—Annona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia ciliata, Empetrum album,

Andromeda ferruginea, Rhododendron spurium, Pica glandaria non

cristata, Lanius, Lacerta, Snakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda formosissima,

Cyrillia—encamps at the Halfway Pond—describes the pond and meadows, a

beautiful landscape—pilgrimage of fish—describes various kinds of

fish—great soft shelled tortoise and great land tortoise—moral

reflections and meditations—leaves Half-way Pond and

proceeds—situation, quality and furniture of the earth—arrives at

Cuscowilla—reception from the Indian chief; his character—Siminoles

predilection for Spanish customs and civilization—Indian slaves, their

condition—departs for the Alachua savanna; description of the

savanna—Siminoles on horseback—returns to Cuscowilla—a council and

Indian feast—description of the town and Cuscowilla lake—returns to the

savanna—glass-snake—makes the tour of the savanna—vestiges of the

ancient Alachua—Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolves, savanna

crane—arrives at the great bason or sink—description of the

sink—account of the alligators, incredible number of fish; their

subterranean migrations—returns—old Spanish highway—Indian

highway—arrives again at the trading-house on St. Juan’s—character and

comparison of the nations of the Upper Creeks, and Lower or Siminoles.

CHAPTER VII.

Sets out again on a journey to Talahasochte—description of the Siminole

horse—encamps at an enchanting grotto on the banks of a beautiful

lake—rocky ridges and desert wilds—engagement between a hawk and the

coach-whip-snake—description of the snake—account of the country, grand

Pine forest—encamps on the borders of an extensive savanna—description

of the savanna crane—comes upon the verge of extensive savannas, lying

on a beautiful lake—the expansive fields of Capola, decorated with

delightful groves—squadrons of Siminole horses—a troop under the

conduct and care of an Indian dog—the fields of Capola a delightful

region—ferruginous rocks, rich iron ore—arrives at Talahasochte on the

river Little St. Juan’s—describes the town and river—Indian

canoes—their voyages and traffic—Indian voyage to Cuba—a fishing party

and naval race—an excursion to the Manatee spring—description of that

incomparable nymphæum—an account of the Manatee—crosses the river to

explore the country—Spanish remains—vast Cane wildernesses—ancient

Spanish plantations—Apalachian old fields—returns to town—White King’s

arrival—a council and feast—character of the king—leaves the town on

researches, and encamps in the forests—account of an extraordinary

eruption of waters—joins his companions at camp—entertainment by the

White King in Talahasochte—Contee, its preparation and use—returns to

camp—great desert plains—entertainment with a party of young Siminole

warriors—various natural wells and sinks; conjectures concerning

them—account of the Long Pond, and delightful prospects

adjacent—returns for the trading-house on St. Juan’s—embarassments

occasioned by the wild horses—encamps at Bird Island Pond—vast number

of wild fowl tending their nests—engagement with an alligator who

surprised the camp by night—observations on the great Alachua savanna

and its environs—arrival at the trading-house.

CHAPTER VIII.

The Author makes an excursion again up St. Juan’s to Lake

George—revisits Six Mile Springs and Illicium groves, makes

collections, and recrosses the lake to the eastern coast—that shore

more bold and rocky than the opposite—coasts round that shore, touching

at old deserted plantations—Perennial Cotton—Indigo—unpardonable

devastation and neglect of the white settlers, with respect to the

native Orange groves—returns to the trading-house.

CHAPTER IX.

Indian warriors, their frolic—curious conference with the Long

Warrior—ludicrous Indian farce relative to a rattle snake—war farce

CHAPTER X.

Farther account of the rattle snake—account and description of other

snakes and animals—catalogue of birds of North America; observations

concerning their migration, or annual passages from North to South, and

back again.

CHAPTER XI.

Visits an Indian village on the river—water melon feast—description of

the banqueting-house—makes an excursion across the river; great dangers

in crossing; lands on the opposite shore—discovers a bee tree, which

yielded a great quantity of honey—returns to the shore—embarks for

Frederica in Georgia; visits the plantations down the river; enters the

sound and passes through; arrives at Frederica—embarks again—touches at

Sunbury—arrives in Charleston, South Carolina—meditates a journey to

the Cherokee country and Creek Nation, in West Florida.

PART III.

CHAPTER I.

The Author sets out for the Cherokee territories—passes through a fine

cultivated country—crosses Savanna river and enters the state of

Georgia—Dirca palustris—cowpens—civil entertainment at a

plantation—pursues the road to Augusta, and recrosses the river at

Silver Bluff—account of Mr. Golphin’s villa and trading stores, Silver

Bluff, fort Moore, Augusta, Savanna river, mountains of large fossil

oyster shells.

CHAPTER II.

Proceeds for fort James, Dartmouth—curious species of Azalea—crosses

Broad River—establishment of Dartmouth—Indian mount, &c. crosses

Savanna river—violent gust of rain—curious species of Æsculus

pavia—town of Sinica—fort Prince George, Keowe—describes the country

CHAPTER III.

Ocone vale—monuments of the ancient town—crosses the mountains—their

situation, views and productions—rests on the top of Mount

Magnolia—description of a new and beautiful species of

Magnolia—cascades of Falling Creek—thunder storm—head of Tanasee—vale

of Cowe—Indian graves—towns of Echoe, Nucasse and Whatoga—nobly

entertained by the prince of Whatoga—arrives at the town of Cowe—makes

an excursion with a young trader on the hills of Cowe—incomparable

prospects—horse-stamp—discovers a company of Cherokee nymphs—a frolic

with them—returns to town.

CHAPTER IV.

Set off from Whatoga to the Overhill towns—Jore village—Roaring

Creek—the Author and his guide part—surprised by an Indian—salute and

part friendly—mountainous vegetable productions—arrives on the top of

Jore mountain—sublime prospects—Atta-kul-kulla, grand Cherokee

chief—gracious reception—returns to Cowe—great council-house—curious

Indian dance—returns and stops at Sinica—arrives again at fort James,

Dartmouth—list of Cherokee towns and villages.

CHAPTER V.

Sets off from Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chactaws country—Flat

Rock—a curious plant—Rocky Comfort—Ocone old Town—migration of the

Ocones—crosses the river—fords the Oakmulge at the Oakmulge

fields—Stoney Creek—Great and Little Tabosachte—new species of

Hydrangia—crosses Flint River—describes the country—persecuted by

extraordinary heats and incredible numbers of biting flies—Hippobosca

and Asilus—extraordinary thunder gust—crosses Chata Uche

river—describes the town—very large and populous—proceeds and arrives

at the Apalachucla town—visits the old town—extraordinary remains and

monuments of the ancients—general face of the country and vegetable

productions—new species of Æsculus

CHAPTER VI.

Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Tallase, on the

Tallapoose river—Coloome, a handsome town—great plains—further account

of the country—Dog woods—crosses the river Schambe—comes to Taensa on

the east banks of the Mobile, thirty miles above the city—French

inhabitants—passes down the river, arrives at the city of Mobile—short

account of the city and fort Condé—returns to Taensa, and proceeds up

the river as far as the entrance of the Chicasaw branch—floating

forests of the Nyphæa Nelumbo—visits the adjacent lands—returns to

Mobile—goes to the river Perdido—continues on to Pensacola—cordially

received by governor Chester—some account of the town—discovers a new

and beautiful species of Sarracenia—returns to Mobile.

CHAPTER VII.

Leaves Mobile for Manchac on the Mississipi—proceeds by water to Pearl

Island—kindly entertained by Mr. Rumsey—describes the island—large

crimson Plum—a delicate species of Mimosa—passes Lake

Pontchartrain—touches at the river Taensapaoa—passes over Lake

Maurepas—proceeds up to Iberville—crosses by land to Manchac—goes up

the Mississipi—settlements of New-Richmond—White Plains—curious muscle

shells in the river—crosses over to Point Coupè—Spanish village and

fortress—high cliffs opposite Point Coupè—returns to the Amite, thence

down through the lakes and sounds back again to Mobile.

CHAPTER VIII.

Leaves Mobile on his return—proceeds with a company of traders for the

Creek nation—his horse tires—is in great distress—meets a company of

traders, of whom he purchases a fresh horse—Illicium groves—meets a

company of emigrants from Georgia—great embarassment at a large creek

swollen with late heavy rains—arrives at the banks of the

Alabama—crosses it and arrives at Mucclasse—Indian marriage—serious

reflections—perilous situation of the trader of Mucclasse—sets off for

Otasse—describes the country contiguous to the Tallapoose

river—plantations and towns—Coolome—Tuckabatche—crosses the river and

arrives at Ottasse—rotunda and square—black drink—spiral fire—Sabbath

or holy day to the Great Spirit—sets off with a company of traders for

Georgia—Chehaw and Usseta, Creek towns on the Apalachucla river, almost

join each other, yet the inhabitants speak two languages radically

different—arrives at the Oakmulge—crosses the river in a portable

leather boat—crosses the river Ocone—head branches of Great

Ogeche—arrives at Augusta—takes leave of Augusta and his friends there,

and proceeds for Savanna—list of Muscogulge towns and

villages—conjectures concerning the rise of the Muscogulge confederacy.

CHAPTER IX.

Short excursion in the South of Georgia—makes collections—gathers seeds

of two new and very curious shrubs.

CHAPTER X.

Proceeds for Charleston—calls at a gentleman’s

plantation—Adoe—Tannier—wild pigeons—Aster fruticosus—leaves

Charleston, proceeds on his return home to Pennsylvania—crosses Cooper

river, nine miles above the city—Long Bay—reefs of rocks—meets a gang

of Negroes—passes the boundary-house—large savanna—Dionæa muscipula—old

towns—Brunswick—the Clarendon or Cape Fear river—North

West—Livingston’s creek—Wackamaw lake—Carver’s creek—Ashwood—various

vegetable productions—cultivated vegetables—describes the face of the

country on the banks of the North West and adjacent lands—strata of the

earth or soil—rocks—petrifactions—ancient submarine productions

&c.—leaves Ashwood, continues up the river—vast trunks of trees with

their roots, stumps of limbs, with the bark on, turned into very hard

stone—Rock-Fish creek—Cross Creeks—the rise, progress and present state

of Cambelton—curious species of scandent Fern—Deep River—crosses Haw

River—Meherren river in Virginia—Cucurbita lagenaria—curious species of

Prinos—Alexandria—Georgetown—sudden fall of snow—extreme cold—crosses

the river Susquehanna upon the ice—river Schuylkill—arrives at his

father’s house, within three miles of Philadelphia.

PART IV.

CHAPTER I.

Persons, character, and qualifications of the Aborigines—most perfect

human figure—Muscogulge women—women of the Cherokees—arrogance of the

Muscogulges, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquished enemy.

CHAPTER II.

Government and civil society—constitution simply natural—the mico or

king presides in the senate—elective—yet mysterious—the next man in

dignity and power is the great war chief—entirely independent of the

mico—his voice in council of the greatest weight concerning military

affairs—the high priest a person of consequence, and maintains great

influence in their constitution and councils of state—these Indians not

idolaters—they adore the Great Spirit, the giver and taker away of the

breath of life, with the most profound homage and purity—anecdote.

CHAPTER III.

Dress, feasts and divertisements—youth of both sexes are fond of

decorations with respect to dress—their ears lacerated—diadem plumes,

&c.—painting their skin—dress of the females different from that of the

men—great horned owlskin stuffed and borne about by the

priests—insignia of wisdom and divination—fond of music, dancing and

routs—different classes of songs—variety of steps in their

dances—sensible and powerful effects—ball play—festival of the Busk.

CHAPTER IV.

Concerning property, agriculture, arts and manufactures—private

property—produce of their agricultural labours—common plantation—king’s

crib—public treasury—women the most ingenious and vigilant in mechanic

arts and manufactures.

CHAPTER V.

Marriages and funeral rites—polygamy—take wives whilst they are yet

young children—adultery—Muscogulges bury their dead in a sitting

posture—strange customs of the Chactaws relative to duties to the

deceased—bone-house—dirges—feast to the dead—methods which the nurses

pursue to flatten the infant’s skull and retain its form.

CHAPTER VI.

Language and monuments—Muscogulge language spoken throughout the

confederacy—agreeable to the ear—Cherokee language loud—pyramidal

artificial hills or mounts, terraces, obelisks—high ways and artificial

lakes—chunk yards—slave posts.

INDEX

List of Illustrations

A Map of the Coast of East Florida

Annona Pygmea

Annona Grandiflora

Ixia Cœlestina

Great Soft-shelled Tortoise

Head of the Great Softshelled Tortoise

Hydrangea Quercifolia

Andromeda Pulverulenta

PART I.

INTRODUCTION.

The attention of a traveller, should be particularly turned, in the

first place, to the various works of Nature, to mark the distinctions

of the climates he may explore, and to offer such useful observations

on the different productions as may occur. Men and manners undoubtedly

hold the first rank—whatever may contribute to our existence is also of

equal importance, whether it be found in the animal or vegetable

kingdom; neither are the various articles, which tend to promote the

happiness and convenience of mankind, to be disregarded. How far the

writer of the following sheets has succeeded in furnishing information

on these subjects, the reader will be capable of determining. From the

advantages the journalist enjoyed under his father JOHN BARTRAM,

botanist to the king of Great-Britain, and fellow of the Royal Society,

it is hoped that his labours will present new as well as useful

information to the botanist and zoologist.

This world, as a glorious apartment of the boundless palace of the

sovereign Creator, is furnished with an infinite variety of animated

scenes, inexpressibly beautiful and pleasing, equally free to the

inspection and enjoyment of all his creatures.

Perhaps there is not any part of creation, within the reach of our

observations, which exhibits a more glorious display of the Almighty

hand, than the vegetable world: such a variety of pleasing scenes, ever

changing throughout the seasons, arising from various causes and

assigned each to the purpose and use determined.

It is difficult to pronounce which division of the earth, within the

polar circles, produces the greatest variety. The tropical division

certainly affords those which principally contribute to the more

luxurious scenes of splendour, as Myrtus communis, Myrt. caryophyllata,

Myrt. pimenta, Caryophylus aromaticus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor.

Laurus Persica, Nux mosch. Illicium, Camellia, Punica, Cactus

melo-cactus; Cactus grandiflora, Gloriosa superba, Theobroma, Adansonia

digitata, Nyctanthes, Psidium, Musa paradisica, Musa sapientum,

Garcinia mangostana, Cocos nucifera, Citrus, Citrus aurantium,

Cucurbita citrullus, Hyacinthus, Amaryllis, Narcissus, Poinciana

pulcherrima, Crinum, Cactus cochinellifer.

But the temperate zone (including by far the greater portion of the

earth, and a climate the most favourable to the increase and support of

animal life, as well as for the exercise and activity of the human

faculties) exhibits scenes of infinitely greater variety, magnificence

and consequence, with respect to human economy, in regard to the

various uses of vegetables.

For instance, Triticum Cereale, which affords us bread, and is termed,

by way of eminence, the staff of life, the most pleasant and nourishing

food to all terrestrial animals. Vitis vinifera, whose exhilarating

juice is said to cheer the hearts of gods and men. Oryza, Zea, Pyrus,

Pyrus malus, Prunus, Pr. cerasus, Ficus, Nectarin, Apricot, Cydonia.

Next follow the illustrious families of forest-trees, as the Magnolia

grandiflora and Quercus sempervirens, which form the venerated groves

and solemn shades, on the Mississipi, Alatamaha and Florida; the

magnificent Cupressus disticha of Carolina and Florida; the beautiful

Water Oak[1], whose vast hemispheric head presents the likeness of a

distant grove in the fields and savannas of Carolina; the gigantic

Black Oak[2], Platanus occidentalis, Liquidambar styraciflua,

Liriodendron tulipera, Fagus castanea, Fagus sylvatica, Juglans nigra,

Juglans cinerea, Jug. pecan, Ulmus, Acer saccharinum, of Virginia and

Pennsylvania; Pinus phœnix, Pinus tœda, Magnolia acuminata, Nyssa

aquatica, Populus heterophylla and the floriferous Gordonia lasianthus,

of Carolina and Florida; the exalted Pinus strobus, Pin. balsamica,

Pin. abies, Pin. Canadensis, Pin. larix, Fraxinus excelsior, Robinia

pseudacacia, Guilandina dioica, Æsculus Virginica, Magnolia acuminata,

of Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, New England,

Ohio and the regions of Erie and the Illinois; and the aromatic and

floriferous shrubs, as Azalea coccinia, Azalea rosea, Rosa,

Rhododendron, Kalmia, Syringa, Gardenia, Calycanthus, Daphne,

Franklinia, Styrax and others equally celebrated.

In every order of nature, we perceive a variety of qualities

distributed amongst individuals, designed for different purposes and

uses; yet it appears evident, that the great Author has impartially

distributed his favours to his creatures, so that the attributes of

each one seem to be of sufficient importance to manifest the divine and

inimitable workmanship. The pompous Palms of Florida, and glorious

Magnolia, strikes us with the sense of dignity and magnificence; the

expansive umbrageous Live-Oak[3] with awful veneration, the Carica

papaya, supercilious with all the harmony of beauty and gracefulness;

the Lillium superbum represents pride and vanity; Kalmia latifolia and

Azalea coccinea, exhibit a perfect show of mirth and gaiety; the

Illicium Floridanum, Crinum Floridanum, Convallaria majalis of the

Cherokees, and Calycanthus floridus, charm with their beauty and

fragrance. Yet they are not to be compared for usefulness with the

nutritious Triticum, Zea, Oryza, Solanum tuberosum, Musa, Convolvulus,

Batata, Rapa, Orchis, Vitis vinifera, Pyrus, Olea; for clothing with

Linum Cannabis, Gossypium, Morus; for medical virtues, Hyssopus,

Thymus, Anthemis nobilis, Papaver somniferum, Quinquina, Rheum

rhabarbarum, Pisum, &c. Though none of these most useful tribes are

conspicuous for stateliness, figure or splendour, yet their valuable

qualities and virtues, excite love, gratitude and adoration to the

great Creator, who was such to endow them with such eminent qualities,

and reveal them to us for our sustenance, amusement, and delight.

But there remain of the vegetable world, several tribes that are

distinguished by very remarkable properties, which excite our

admiration, some for the elegance, singularity and splendour of their

vestment, as the Tulipa, Fritillaria, Colchicum, Primula, Lillium

superbum, Kalmia, &c.: others astonish us by their figure and disposal

of their vestiture, as if designed only to embellish and please the

observer, as the Nepenthes distillatoria, Ophrys insectoria,

Cypripedium calceolus, Hydrangia quercifolia, Bartramia bracteata,

Viburnum Canadense, Bartsia, &c.

Observe these green meadows how they are decorated; they seem enamelled

with the beds of flowers. The blushing Chironia and Rhexia, the spiral

Ophrys with immaculate white flowers, the Limodorum, Arethusa

pulcherrima, Sarracenia purpurea, Sarracenia galeata, Sarracenia

lacunosa, Sarracenia flava. Shall we analyze these beautiful plants,

since they seem cheerfully to invite us? How greatly the flowers of the

yellow Sarracenia represent a silken canopy? the yellow pendant petals

are the curtains, and the hollow leaves are not unlike the cornucopia

or Amalthea’s horn, what a quantity of water a leaf is capable of

containing, about a pint! taste of it—how cool and animating—limpid as

the morning dew: nature seems to have furnished them with this cordated

appendage or lid, which turns over, to prevent a too sudden and copious

supply of water from heavy showers of rain, which would bend down the

leaves, never to rise again; because their straight parallel nerves,

which extend and support them, are so rigid and fragile, the leaf would

inevitably break when bent down to a right angle; therefore I suppose

the waters which contribute to their supply, are the rebounding drops

or horizontal streams wafted by the winds, which adventitiously find

their way into them, when a blast of wind shifts the lid; see these

short stiff hairs, they all point downwards, which direct the condensed

vapours down into the funiculum; these stiff hairs also prevent the

varieties of insects, which are caught, from returning, being invited

down to sip the mellifluous exudation, from the interior surface of the

tube, where they inevitably perish; what quantities there are of them!

These latent waters undoubtedly contribute to the support and

refreshment of the plant; perhaps designed as a reservoir in case of

long continued droughts, or other casualties, since these plants

naturally dwell in low savannas liable to overflows, from rain water:

for although I am not of the opinion that vegetables receive their

nourishment, only through the ascending part of the plant, as the stem,

branches, leaves, &c. and that their descending parts, as the roots and

fibres, only serve to hold and retain them in their places, yet I

believe they imbibe rain and dews through their leaves, stems and

branches, by extremely minute pores, which open on both surfaces of the

leaves and on the branches, which may communicate to little auxiliary

ducts or vessels; or, perhaps the cool dews and showers, by

constricting these pores, and thereby preventing a too free

perspiration, may recover and again invigorate the languid nerves, of

those which seem to suffer for want of water, in great heats and

droughts; but whether the insects caught in their leaves, and which

dissolve and mix with the fluid, serve for aliment or support to these

kind of plants, is doubtful. All the Sarracenia are insect catchers,

and so is the Drossea rotundifolia.

But admirable are the properties of the extraordinary Dionea muscipula!

A great extent on each side of that serpentine rivulet, is occupied by

those sportive vegetables—let us advance to the spot in which nature

has seated them. Astonishing production! see the incarnate lobes

expanding, how gay and sportive they appear! ready on the spring to

intrap incautious deluded insects! what artifice! there behold one of

the leaves just closed upon a struggling fly; another has got a worm;

its hold is sure, its prey can never escape—carnivorous vegetable! Can

we after viewing this object, hesitate a moment to confess, that

vegetable beings are endued with some sensible faculties or attributes,

similar to those that dignify animal nature; they are organical, living

and self-moving bodies, for we see here, in this plant, motion and

volition.

What power or faculty is it, that directs the cirri of the Cucurbita,

Momordica, Vitis and other climbers, towards the twigs of shrubs,

trees, and other friendly support? we see them invariably leaning,

extending, and like the fingers of the human hand, reaching to catch

hold of what is nearest, just as if they had eyes to see with, and when

their hold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a spiral form, by which

artifice it becomes more elastic and effectual, than if it had remained

in a direct line, for every revolution of the coil adds a portion of

strength; and thus collected, they are enabled to dilate and contract

as occasion or necessity requires, and thus by yielding to, and

humouring the motion of the limbs and twigs, or other support on which

they depend, are not so liable to be torn off by sudden blasts of wind

or other assaults: is it sense or instinct that influences their

actions? it must be some impulse; or does the hand of the Almighty act

and perform this work in our sight?

The vital principle or efficient cause of motion and action, in the

animal and vegetable[4] system, perhaps, may be more similar than we

generally apprehend. Where is the essential difference between the seed

of peas, peaches and other tribes of plants and trees, and the eggs of

oviparous animals, as the eggs of birds, snakes, or butterflies, spawn

of fish, &c.? Let us begin at the source of terrestrial existence. Are

not the seed of vegetables, and the eggs of oviparous animals

fecundated, or influenced with the vivific principle of life, through

the approximation and intimacy of the sexes? and immediately after the

eggs and seeds are hatched, does not the young larva and infant plant,

by heat and moisture, rise into existence, increase, and in due time

arrive to a state of perfect maturity? The physiologists agree in

opinion, that the work of generation in viviparious animals, is exactly

similar, only more secret and enveloped. The mode of operation that

nature pursues in the production of vegetables, and oviparous animals,

is infinitely more uniform and manifest, than that which is or can be

discovered to take place in viviparous animals.

The most apparent difference between animals and vegetables is, that

animals have the powers of sound, and are locomotive, whereas

vegetables are not able to shift themselves from the places where

nature has planted them: yet vegetables have the power of moving and

exercising their members, and have the means of transplanting and

colonising their tribes almost over the surface of the whole earth;

some seeds, for instance, grapes, nuts, smilax, peas, and others, whose

pulp or kernel is food for animals, will remain several days without

being injured in stomachs of pigeons and other birds of passage; by

this means such sorts are distributed from place to place, even across

seas; indeed some seeds require this preparation by the digestive heat

of the stomach of animals, to dissolve and detach the oily, viscid

pulp, and to soften the hard shells. Small seeds are sometimes

furnished with rays of hair or down, and others with thin light

membranes attached to them, which serve the purpose of wings, on which

they mount upward, leaving the earth, float in the air, and are carried

away by the swift winds to very remote regions before they settle on

the earth; some are furnished with hooks, which catch hold of the wool

and hair of animals passing by them, are by that means spread abroad;

other seeds ripen in pericarpes, which open with elastic force, and

shoot their seed to a very great distance round about; some other

seeds, as of the Mosses and Fungi, are so very minute as to be

invisible, light as atoms, and these mixing with the air, are wafted

all over the world.

The animal creation also, excites our admiration, and equally manifests

the almighty power, wisdom and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and

Sovereign Lord of the universe; some in their vast size and strength,

as the mammoth, the elephant, the whale, the lion, and alligator;

others in agility; others in their beauty and elegance of colour,

plumage and rapidity of flight, have the faculty of moving and living

in the air; others for their immediate and indispensable use and

convenience to man, in furnishing means for our clothing and

sustenance, and administering to our help in the toils and labours of

life; how wonderful is the mechanism of these finely formed,

self-moving beings, how complicated their system, yet what unerring

uniformity prevails through every tribe and particular species! the

effect we see and contemplate, the cause is invisible,

incomprehensible, how can it be otherwise? when we cannot see the end

or origin of a nerve or vein, while the divisibility of mater or fluid,

is infinite. We admire the mechanism of a watch, and the fabric of a

piece of brocade, as being the production of art; these merit our

admiration, and must excite our esteem for the ingenious artist or

modifier, but nature is the work of God omnipotent; and an elephant,

nay even this world, is comparatively but a very minute part of his

works. If then the visible, the mechanical part of the animal creation,

the mere material part, is so admirably beautiful, harmonious and

incomprehensible, what must be the intellectual system? that

inexpressibly more essential principle, which secretly operates within?

that which animates the inimitable machines, which gives them motion,

impowers them to act, speak, and perform, this must be divine and

immortal?

I am sensible that the general opinion of philosophers has

distinguished the moral system of the brute creature from that of

mankind, by an epithet which implies a mere mechanical impulse, which

leads and impels them to necessary actions, without any premeditated

design or contrivance; this we term instinct, which faculty we suppose

to be inferior to reason in man.

The parental, and filial affections seem to be as ardent, their

sensibility and attachment as active and faithful, as those observed to

be in human nature.

When travelling on the east coast of the isthmus of Florida, ascending

the South Musquito river, in a canoe, we observed numbers of deer and

bears, near the banks, and on the islands of the river: the bears were

feeding on the fruit of the dwarf creeping Chamærops; (this fruit is of

the form and size of dates, and is delicious and nourishing food:) we

saw eleven bears in the course of the day, they seemed no way surprised

or affrighted at the sight of us. In the evening, my hunter, who was an

excellent marksman, said that he would shoot one of them for the sake

of the skin and oil, for we had plenty and variety of provisions in our

bark. We accordingly, on sight of two of them, planned our approaches,

as artfully as possible, by crossing over to the opposite shore, in

order to get under cover of a small island, this we cautiously coasted

round, to a point, which we apprehended would take us within shot of

the bears, but here finding ourselves at too great a distance from

them, and discovering that we must openly show ourselves. We had no

other alternative to effect our purpose, but making oblique approaches;

we gained gradually on our prey by this artifice, without their

noticing us: finding ourselves near enough, the hunter fired, and laid

the largest dead on the spot where she stood; when presently the other,

not seeming the least moved at the report of our piece, approached the

dead body, smelled, and pawed it, and appearing in agony, fell to

weeping and looking upwards, then towards us, and cried out like a

child. Whilst our boat approached very near, the hunter was loading his

rifle in order to shoot the survivor, which was a young cub, and the

slain supposed to be the dam. The continual cries of this afflicted

child, bereft of its parent, affected me very sensibly; I was moved

with compassion, and charging myself as if accessary to what now

appeared to be a cruel murder, and endeavoured to prevail on the hunter

to save its life, but to no effect! for by habit he had become

insensible to compassion towards the brute creation: being now within a

few yards of the harmless devoted victim, he fired, and laid it dead

upon the body of the dam.

If we bestow but a very little attention to the economy of the animal

creation, we shall find manifest examples of premeditation,

perseverance, resolution, and consummate artifice, in order to effect

their purposes. The next morning, after the slaughter of the bears

whilst my companions were striking our tent, and preparing to

re-embark, I resolved to make a little botanical excursion alone:

crossing over a narrow isthmus of sand hills which separated the river

from the ocean, I passed over a pretty high hill, its summit crested

with a few palm trees, surrounded with an Orange grove; this hill,

whose base was washed on one side, by the floods of the Musquitoe

river, and on the other side by the billows of the ocean, was about one

hundred yards diameter, and seemed to be an entire heap of sea shells.

I continued along the beach, a quarter of a mile, and came up to a

forest of the Agave vivipara (though composed of herbaceous plants, I

term it a forest, because their scapes or flower-stems arose erect near

30 feet high): their tops regularly branching in the form of a

pyramidal tree, and these plants growing near to each other, occupied a

space of ground of several acres: when their seeds are ripe they

vegetate, and grow on the branches, until the scape dries, when the

young plants fall to the ground, take root, and fix themselves in the

sand: the plant grows to a prodigious size before the scape shoots up

from its centre. Having contemplated this admirable grove, I proceeded

towards the shrubberies on the banks of the river, and though it was

now late in December, the aromatic groves appeared in full bloom. The

broad-leaved sweet Myrtus, Erythrina corrallodendrum, Cactus

cochinellifer, Cacalia suffruticosa, and particularly, Rhizophora

conjugata, which stood close to and in the salt water of the river,

were in full bloom, with beautiful white sweet scented flowers, which

attracted to them, two or three species of very beautiful butterflies,

one of which was black, the upper pair of its wings very long and

narrow, marked with transverse stripes of pale yellow, with some spots

of a crimson colour near the body. Another species remarkable for

splendour, was of a larger size; the wings were undulated and obtusely

crenated round their ends, the nether pair terminating near the body,

with a long narrow forked tail; the ground light yellow, striped

oblique-transversely, with stripes of pale celestial blue, the ends of

them adorned with little eyes encircled with the finest blue and

crimson, which represented a very brilliant rosary. But those which

were the most numerous were as white as snow, their wings large, their

ends lightly crenated and ciliated, forming a fringed border, faintly

marked with little black crescents, their points downward, with a

cluster of little brilliant orbs of blue and crimson, on the nether

wings near the body; the numbers were incredible, and there seemed to

be scarcely a flower for each fly, multitudinous as they were, besides

clouds of them hovering over the mellifluous groves. Besides these

papiles, a variety of other insects come in for a share, particularly

several species of bees.

As I was gathering specimens of flowers from the shrubs, I was greatly

surprised at the sudden appearance of a remarkably large spider, on a

leaf of the genus Araneus saliens: at sight of me he boldly faced

about, and raised himself up, as if ready to spring upon me; his body

was about the size of a pigeon’s egg, of a buff colour, which with his

legs were covered with short silky hair, on the top of the abdomen was

a round red spot or ocelle encircled with black. After I had recovered

from the surprise, and observing that the wary hunter had retired under

cover, I drew near again, and presently discovered that I had surprised

him on predatory attempts against the insect tribes. I was therefore

determined to watch his proceedings, I soon noticed that the object of

his wishes was a large fat bomble bee (apis bombylicus), that was

visiting the flowers, and piercing their nectariferous tubes; this

cunning intrepid hunter conducted his subtil approaches with the

circumspection and perseverance of a Siminole when hunting a deer,

advancing with slow steps obliquely, or under cover of dense foliage,

and behind the limbs, and when the bee was engaged in probing a flower,

he would leap nearer, and then instantly retire out of sight, under a

leaf or behind a branch, at the same time keeping a sharp eye upon me.

When he had now gotten within two feet of his prey, and the bee was

intent on sipping the delicious nectar from a flower, with his back

next the spider, he instantly sprang upon him, and grasped him over the

back and shoulder, when for some moments they both disappeared. I

expected the bee had carried off his enemy, but to my surprise, they

both together rebounded back again, suspended at the extremity of a

strong elastic thread or web, which the spider had artfully let fall,

or fixed on the twig, the instant he leaped from it; the rapidity of

the bee’s wings, endeavouring to extricate himself, made them both

together appear as a moving vapour, until the bee became fatigued by

whirling round, first one way and then back again; at length, in about

a quarter of an hour, the bee quite exhausted by his struggles, and the

repeated wounds of the butcher, became motionless, and quickly expired

in the arms of the devouring spider, who, ascending the rope with his

game, retired to feast on it under cover of leaves; and perhaps before

night, became himself the delicious evening repast of a bird or lizard.

Birds are in general social and benevolent creatures; intelligent,

ingenious, volatile, active beings; and this order of animal creation

consists of various nations, bands or tribes, as may be observed from

their different structure, manners and languages, or voice, as each

nation, though subdivided into many different tribes, retaining its

general form or structure, a similarity of customs, and a sort of

dialect or language, particular to that nation or genus from which

those tribes seem to have descended or separated. What I mean by a

language in birds, is the common notes or speech, that they use when

employed in feeding themselves and their young, calling on one another,

as well as their menaces against their enemy; for their songs seem to

be musical compositions, performed only by the males, about the time of

incubation, in part to divert and amuse the female, entertaining her

with melody, &c. This harmony, with the tender solicitude of the male,

alleviates the toils, cares and distresses of the female, consoles her

in solitary retirement whilst sitting, and animates her with affection

and attachment to himself in preference to any other. The volatility of

their species, and operation of their passions and affections, are

particularly conspicuous in the different tribes of the thrush, famous

for song. On a sweet May morning we see the red thrushes (turdus rufus)

perched on an elevated sprig of the snowy Hawthorn, sweet flowering

Crab, or other hedge shrub, exerting their accomplishments in song,

striving by varying and elevating their voices to excel each other; we

observe a very agreeable variation, not only in tone but in modulation;

the voice of one is shrill, of another lively and elevated, of others

sonorous and quivering. The mock-bird (turdus polyglottos) who excels,

distinguishes himself in a variety of action as well as air; from a

turret he bounds aloft with the celerity of an arrow, as it were to

recover or recal his very soul, expired in the last elevated strain.

The high forests are filled with the symphony of the song or wood

thrush (turdus minor.)

Both sexes of some tribes of birds sing equally finely, and it is

remarkable, that these reciprocally assist in their domestic cares, as

building their nests and sitting on their eggs, feeding and defending

their young brood, &c. The oriolus (icterus, Cat.) is an instance in

this case; and the female of the icterus minor is a bird of more

splendid and gay dress than the male bird. Some tribes of birds will

relieve and rear up the young and helpless, of their own and other

tribes, when abandoned. Animal substance seems to be the first food of

all birds, even the granivorous tribes.

Having passed through some remarks, which appeared of sufficient

consequence to be offered to the public, and which were most suitable

to have a place in the introduction, I shall now offer such

observations as must necessarily occur, from a careful attention to,

and investigation of the manners of the Indian nations; being induced,

while travelling among them, to associate with them, that I might judge

for myself whether they were deserving of the severe censure which

prevailed against them among the white people, that they were incapable

of civilization.

In the consideration of this important subject it will be necessary to

enquire, whether they were inclined to adopt the European modes of

civil society? Whether such a reformation could be obtained, without

using coercive or violent means? and lastly, whether such a resolution

would be productive of real benefit to them, and consequently

beneficial to the public? I was satisfied in discovering that they were

desirous of becoming united with us, in civil and religious society.

It may, therefore, not be foreign to the subject, to point out the

propriety of sending men of ability and virtue, under the authority of

government, as friendly visitors, into their towns; let these men be

instructed to learn perfectly their languages, and by a liberal and

friendly intimacy, become acquainted with their customs and usages,

religious and civil; their system of legislation and police, as well as

their most ancient and present traditions and history. These men thus

enlightened and instructed, would be qualified to judge equitably, and

when returned to us, to make true and just reports, which might assist

the legislature of the United States to form, and offer to them a

judicious plan for their civilization and union with us.

But I presume not to dictate in these high concerns of government, and

I am fully convinced that such important matters are far above my

ability; the duty and respect we owe to religion and rectitude, the

most acceptable incense we can offer to the Almighty, as an atonement

for our negligence in the care of the present and future wellbeing of

our Indian brethren, induces me to mention this matter, though perhaps

of greater concernment than we generally are aware.

[1] Quercus Hemispherica.

[2] Quercus tinctoria.

[3] Quercus Sempervirens.

[4] Vid. Sponsalia plantarum, Amœn. Acad l. n. 12. Linn.

[Illustration]

The Travels of William Bartram

CHAPTER I.

THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM PHILADELPHIA, AND ARRIVES AT CHARLESTON,

FROM WHENCE HE BEGINS HIS TRAVELS.

At the request of Dr. Fothergill, of London, to search the Floridas,

and the western parts of Carolina and Georgia, for the discovery of

rare and useful productions of nature, chiefly in the vegetable

kingdom; in April, 1773, I embarked for Charleston, South Carolina, on

board the brigantine Charleston Packet, Captain Wright, the brig——,

Captain Mason, being in company with us, and bound to the same port. We

had a pleasant run down the Delaware, 150 miles to Cape Henlopen, the

two vessels entering the Atlantic together. For the first twenty-four

hours, we had a prosperous gale, and were cheerful and happy in the

prospect of a quick and pleasant voyage; but, alas! how vain and

uncertain are human expectations! how quickly is the flattering scene

changed! The powerful winds, now rushing forth from their secret

abodes, suddenly spread terror and devastation; and the wide ocean,

which, a few moments past, was gentle and placid, is now thrown into

disorder, and heaped into mountains, whose white curling crests seem to

sweep the skies!

This furious gale continued near two days and nights, and not a little

damaged our sails, cabin furniture, and state-rooms, besides retarding

our passage. The storm having abated, a lively gale from N. W.

continued four or five days, when shifting to N. and lastly to N. E. on

the tenth of our departure from cape Henlopen, early in the morning, we

descried a sail astern, and in a short time discovered it to be Capt.

Mason, who soon came up with us. We hailed each other, being joyful to

meet again, after so many dangers. He suffered greatly by the gale, but

providentially made a good harbour within Cape Hatteras. As he ran by

us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bass, a large and delicious fish,

having caught a great number of them whilst he was detained in harbour.

He got into Charleston that evening, and we the next morning, about

eleven o’clock.

There are few objects out at sea to attract the notice of the

traveller, but what are sublime, awful, and majestic: the seas

themselves, in a tempest, exhibit a tremendous scene, where the winds

assert their power, and, in furious conflict, seem to set the ocean on

fire. On the other hand, nothing can be more sublime than the view of

the encircling horizon, after the turbulent winds have taken their

flight, and the lately agitated bosom of the deep has again become calm

and pacific; the gentle moon rising in dignity from the east, attended

by thousands of glittering orbs; the luminous appearance of the seas at

night, when all the waters seem transmuted into liquid silver; the

prodigious bands of porpoises foreboding tempest, that appear to cover

the ocean; the mighty whale, sovereign of the watery realms, who

cleaves the seas in his course; the sudden appearance of land from the

sea, the strand stretching each way, beyond the utmost reach of sight;

the alternate appearance and recess of the coast, whilst the far

distant blue hills slowly retreat and disappear; or, as we approach the

coast, the capes and promontories first strike our sight, emerging from

the watery expanse, and like mighty giants, elevating their crests

towards the skies; the water suddenly alive with its scaly inhabitants;

squadrons of sea-fowl sweeping through the air, impregnated with the

breath of fragrant aromatic trees and flowers; the amplitude and

magnificence of these scenes are great indeed, and may present to the

imagination, an idea of the first appearance of the earth to man at the

creation.

On my arrival at Charleston, I waited on Doctor Chalmer, a gentleman of

eminence in his profession and public employments, to whom I was

recommended by my worthy patron, and to whom I was to apply for counsel

and assistance, for carrying into effect my intended travels. The

doctor received me with perfect politeness, and, on every occasion,

treated me with friendship; and by means of the countenance which he

gave me, and the marks of esteem with which he honoured me, I became

acquainted with many of the worthy families, not only of Carolina and

Georgia, but also in the distant countries of Florida.

CHAPTER II.

Arriving in Carolina very early in the spring vegetation was not

sufficiently advanced to invite me into the western parts of this

state; from which circumstance, I concluded to make an excursion into

Georgia; accordingly, I embarked on board a coasting vessel, and in

twenty-four hours arrived in Savanna, the capital, where, acquainting

the governor, Sir J. Wright, with my business, his excellency received

me with great politeness, showed me every mark of esteem and regard,

and furnished me with letters to the principal inhabitants of the

state, which were of great service to me. Another circumstance very

opportunely occurred on my arrival: the assembly was then sitting in

Savanna, and several members lodging in the same house where I took up

my quarters, I became acquainted with several worthy characters, who

invited me to call at their seats occasionally, as I passed through the

country; particularly the hon. B. Andrews, esq. a distinguished,

patriotic and liberal character. This gentleman’s seat, and well

cultivated plantations, are situated near the south high road, which I

often travelled; and I seldom passed his house without calling to see

him, for it was the seat of virtue, where hospitality, piety, and

philosophy, formed the happy family; where the weary traveller and

stranger found a hearty welcome, and from whence it must be his own

fault, if he departed without being greatly benefited.

After resting, and a little recreation for a few days in Savanna, and

having in the mean time purchased a good horse, and equipped myself for

a journey southward, I sat off early in the morning for Sunbury, a

sea-port town, beautifully situated on the main, between Medway and

Newport rivers, about fifteen miles south of great Ogeeche river. The

town and harbour are defended from the fury of the seas by the north

and south points of St. Helena and South Catherine’s islands; between

which is the bar and entrance into the sound: the harbour is capacious

and safe, and has water enough for ships of great burthen. I arrived

here in the evening, in company with a gentleman, one of the

inhabitants, who politely introduced me to one of the principal

families, where I supped and spent the evening in a circle of genteel

and polite ladies and gentlemen. Next day, being desirous of visiting

the islands, I forded a narrow shoal, part of the sound, and landed on

one of them, which employed me the whole day to explore. The surface

and vegetable mould here is generally a loose sand, not very fertile,

except some spots bordering on the sound and inlets, where are found

heaps or mounds of sea-shell, either formerly brought there, by the

Indians, who inhabited the island, or which were perhaps thrown up in

ridges, by the beating surface of the sea: possibly both these

circumstances may have contributed to their formation. These

sea-shells, through length of time, and the subtle penetrating effects

of the air, which dissolve them to earth, render these ridges very

fertile, and, when clear of their trees, and cultivated, they become

profusely productive of almost every kind of vegetable. Here are also

large plantations of indigo, corn, and potatoes,[5] with many other

sorts of esculent plants. I observed, amongst the shells of the conical

mounds, fragments of earthen vessels, and of other utensils, the

manufacture of the ancients: about the centre of one of them, the rim

of an earthen pot appeared amongst the shells and earth, which I

carefully removed, and drew it out, almost whole: this pot was

curiously wrought all over the outside, representing basket work, and

was undoubtedly esteemed a very ingenious performance, by the people,

at the age of its construction. The natural produce of these testaceous

ridges, besides many of less note, are, the great Laurel Tree,

(Magnolia grandiflora) Pinus tæda, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus

sempervirens, or Live Oak, Prunus, Lauro-cerasus, Ilex aquifolium,

Corypha palma, Juniperus Americana. The general surface of the island

being low, and generally level, produces a very great variety of trees,

shrubs and herbaceous plants; particularly the great long-leaved

Pitch-Pine, or Broom-Pine, Pinus palustris, Pinus squamosa, Pinus

lutea, Gordonia Lasianthus, Liquid Ambar (Styraciflua) Acer rubrum,

Fraxinus excelcior; Fraxinus aquatica, Quercus aquatica, Quercus

phillos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila varietas, Vaccinium varietas,

Andromeda varietas, Prinos varietas, Ilex varietas, Viburnum

prunifolium, V. dentatum, Cornus florida, C. alba, C. sanguinea,

Carpinus betula, C. ostrya, Itea Clethra alnifolia, Halesia tetraptera,

H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus frangula, Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindus,

Cassine, and of such as grow near water-courses, round about ponds and

savannas, Fothergilla gardini, Myrica cerifera, Olea Americana, Cyrilla

racemiflora, Magnolia glauca, Magnolia pyramidata, Cercis, Kalmia

angustifolia, Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthus, Cephalanthos, Æsculus parva,

and the intermediate spaces, surrounding and lying between the ridges

and savannas, are intersected with plains of the dwarf prickly

fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawns of grass variegated with stately trees

of the great Broom-Pine, and the spreading ever-green Water-Oak, either

disposed in clumps, or scatteringly planted by nature. The upper

surface, or vegetative soil of the island, lies on a foundation, or

stratum, of tenacious cinereous-coloured clay, which perhaps is the

principal support of the vast growth of timber that arises from the

surface, which is little more than a mixture of fine white sand and

dissolved vegetables, serving as a nursery bed to hatch, or bring into

existence, the infant plant, and to supply it with aliment and food,

suitable to its delicacy and tender frame, until the roots, acquiring

sufficient extent and solidity to lay hold of the clay, soon attain a

magnitude and stability sufficient to maintain its station. Probably if

this clay were dug out, and cast upon the surface, after being

meliorated by the saline or nitrous qualities of the air, it would

kindly incorporate with the loose sand, and become a productive and

lasting manure.

The roebuck, or deer, are numerous on this island; the tyger, wolf, and

bear, hold yet some possession; as also raccoons, foxes, hares,

squirrels, rats and mice, but I think no moles. There is a large ground

rat, more than twice the size of the common Norway rat. In the night

time it throws out the earth, forming little mounds, or hillocks.

Opossums are here in abundance, as also pole-cats, wild cats,

rattle-snakes, glass-snake, coach-whip-snake, and a variety of other

serpents.

Here are also a great variety of birds, throughout the seasons,

inhabiting both sea and land. First I shall name the eagle, of which

there are three species. The great grey eagle is the largest, of great

strength and high flight; he chiefly preys on fawns and other young

quadrupeds.

The bald eagle is likewise a large, strong, and very active bird, but

an execrable tyrant: he supports his assumed dignity and grandeur by

rapine and violence, extorting unreasonable tribute and subsidy from

all the feathered nations.

The last of this race I shall mention is the falco-piscatorius, or

fishing-hawk: this is a large bird, of high and rapid flight; his wings

are very long and pointed, and he spreads a vast sail, in proportion to

the volume of his body. This princely bird subsists entirely on fish,

which he takes himself, scorning to live and grow fat on the

dear-earned labours of another; he also contributes liberally to the

support of the bald eagle.

Water-fowl, and the various species of land-birds, also abound, most of

which are mentioned by Catesby, in his Hist. Carolina, particularly his

painted finch (Emberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded by none of the feathered

tribes, either in variety and splendour of dress, or melody of song.

Catesby’s ground doves are also here in abundance: they are remarkably

beautiful, about the size of a sparrow, and their soft and plaintive

cooing perfectly enchanting.

How chaste the dove! “never known to violate the conjugal contract.”

She flees the seats of envy and strife, and seeks the retired paths of

peace.

The sight of this delightful and productive island, placed in front of

the rising city of Sunbury, quickly induced me to explore it; which I

apprehended, from former visits to this coast, would exhibit a

comprehensive epitome of the history of all the sea-coast islands of

Carolina and Georgia, as likewise in general of the coast of the main.

And though I considered this excursion along the coast of Georgia and

northern border of Florida, a deviation from the high road of my

intended travels, yet I performed it in order to employ to the most

advantage the time on my hands, before the treaty of Augusta came on,

where I was to attend, about May or June, by desire of the

Superintendant, J. Stewart, esq. who, when I was in Charleston,

proposed, in order to facilitate my travels in the Indian territories,

that, if I would be present at the Congress, he would introduce my

business to the chiefs of the Cherokees, Creeks, and other nations, and

recommend me to their friendship and protection; which promise he fully

performed, and it proved of great service to me.

Obedient to the admonitions of my attendant spirit, curiosity, as well

as to gratify the expectations of my worthy patron, I again sat off on

my southern excursion, and left Sunbury, in company with several of its

polite inhabitants, who were going to Medway meeting, a very large and

well-constructed place of worship, in St. John’s parish, where I

associated with them in religious exercise, and heard a very excellent

sermon, delivered by their pious and truly venerable pastor, the Rev.——

Osgood. This respectable congregation is independent, and consist

chiefly of families, and proselytes to a flock, which this pious man

led about forty years ago, from South Carolina, and settled in this

fruitful district. It is about nine miles from Sunbury to Medway

meeting-house, which stands on the high road, opposite the Sunbury

road. As soon as the congregation broke up, I re-assumed my travels,

proceeding down the high road, towards Fort Barrington, on the

Alatamaha, passing through a level country, well watered by large

streams, branches of Medway and Newport rivers, coursing from extensive

swamps and marshes, their sources: these swamps are daily clearing and

improving into large fruitful rice plantations, aggrandizing the well

inhabited and rich district of St. John’s parish. The road is straight,

spacious, and kept in excellent repair by the industrious inhabitants;

and is generally bordered on each side with a light grove, consisting

of the following trees and shrubs: Myrica Cerifera, Calycanthus,

Halesia tetraptera, Itea stewartia, Andromeda nitida, Cyrella

racemiflora, entwined with bands and garlands of Bignonia sempervirens,

B. crucigera, Lonicera sempervirens and Glycene frutescens; these were

overshadowed by tall and spreading trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora,

Liquid ambar, Liriodendron, Catalpa, Quercus sempervirens, Quercus

dentata, Q. Phillos; and on the verges of the canals, where the road

was causwayed, stood the Cupressus disticha, Gordonia Lacianthus, and

Magnolia glauca, all planted by nature, and left standing, by the

virtuous inhabitants, to shade the road and perfume the sultry air. The

extensive plantations of rice and corn, now in early verdure, decorated

here and there with groves of floriferous and fragrant trees and

shrubs, under the cover and protection of pyramidal laurels and plumed

palms, which now and then break through upon the sight from both sides

of the way as we pass along; the eye at intervals stealing a view at

the humble, but elegant and neat habitation, of the happy proprietor,

amidst arbours and groves, all day, and moon-light nights, filled with

the melody of the cheerful mockbird, warbling nonpareil, and plaintive

turtle-dove, altogether present a view of magnificence and joy,

inexpressibly charming and animating.

In the evening, I arrived at the seat of the Hon. B. Andrews, esq. who

received and entertained me in every respect, as a worthy gentleman

could a stranger, that is, with hearty welcome, plain but plentiful

board, free conversation and liberality of sentiment. I spent the

evening very agreeably, and the day following (for I was not permitted

to depart sooner): I viewed with pleasure this gentleman’s exemplary

improvements in agriculture; particularly in the growth of rice, and in

his machines for shelling that valuable grain, which stands in the

water almost from the time it is sown, until within a few days before

it is reaped, when they draw off the water by sluices, which ripens it

all at once, and when the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reaped

and left standing in the field, in small ricks, until all the straw is

quite dry, when it is hauled, and stacked in the barn-yard. The

machines for cleaning the rice are worked by the force of water. They

stand on the great reservoir which contains the waters that flood the

rice-fields below.

Towards the evening we made a little party at fishing. We chose a

shaded retreat, in a beautiful grove of magnolias, myrtles, and sweet

bay-trees, which were left standing on the bank of a fine creek, that,

from this place, took a slow serpentine course through the plantation.

We presently took some fish, one kind of which is very beautiful; they

call it the red-belly. It is as large as a man’s hand, nearly oval and

thin, being compressed on each side; the tail is beautifully formed;

the top of the head and back of an olive green, besprinkled with russet

specks; the sides of a sea-green, inclining to azure, insensibly

blended with the olive above, and beneath lightens to a silvery white,

or pearl colour, elegantly powdered with specks of the finest green,

russet and gold; the belly is of a bright scarlet-red, or vermilion,

darting up rays or fiery streaks into the pearl on each side; the

ultimate angle of the branchiostega extends backwards with a long

spatula, ending with a round, or oval particoloured spot, representing

the eye in the long feathers of a peacock’s train, verged round with a

thin flame-coloured membrane, and appears like a brilliant ruby fixed

on the side of the fish; the eyes are large, encircled with fiery iris;

they are a voracious fish, and are easily caught with a suitable bait.

The next morning I took leave of this worthy family, and sat off for

the settlements on the Alatahama, still pursuing the high road for Fort

Barrington, till towards noon, when I turned off to the left, following

the road to Darian, a settlement on the river, twenty miles lower down,

and near the coast. The fore part of this day’s journey was pleasant,

the plantations frequent, and the roads in tolerable good repair; but

the country being now less cultivated, the roads became bad. I pursued

my journey almost continually, through swamps and creeks, waters of

Newport and Sapello, till night, when I lost my way: but coming up to a

fence, I saw a glimmering light, which conducted me to a house, where I

stayed all night, and met with very civil entertainment. Early next

morning I sat off again, in company with the overseer of the farm, who

piloted me through a large and difficult swamp, when we parted; he in

chase of deer, and I towards Darian. I rode several miles through a

high forest of pines, thinly growing on a level plain, which admitted

an ample view, and a free circulation of air, to another swamp: and

crossing a considerable branch of Sapello river, I then came to a small

plantation by the side of another swamp: the people were remarkably

civil and hospitable. The man’s name was M’Intosh, a family of the

first colony established in Georgia, under the conduct of General

Oglethorpe. Was there ever such a scene of primitive simplicity, as was

here exhibited, since the days of the good King Tammany! The venerable

grey-headed Caledonian smilingly meets me coming up to his house.

“Welcome, stranger; come in, and rest; the air is now very sultry; it

is a very hot day.” I was there treated with some excellent venison,

and here found friendly and secure shelter from a tremendous thunder

storm, which came up from the N. W. and soon after my arrival began to

discharge its fury all around. Stepping to the door to observe the

progress and direction of the tempest, the fulgour and rapidity of the

streams of lightning, passing from cloud to cloud, and from the clouds

to the earth, exhibited a very awful scene; when instantly the

lightning, as it were, opening a fiery chasm in the black cloud, darted

with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of a large pine-tree, that

stood thirty or forty yards from me, and set it in a blaze. The flame

instantly ascended upwards of ten or twelve feet, and continued flaming

about fifteen minutes, when it was gradually extinguished by the

deluges of rain that fell upon it.

I saw here a remarkably large turkey of the native wild breed; his head

was above three feet from the ground when he stood erect; he was a

stately beautiful bird, of a very dark dusky brown colour, the tips of

the feathers of his neck, breast, back, and shoulders, edged with a

copper colour, which in a certain exposure looked like burnished gold,

and he seemed not insensible of the splendid appearance he made. He was

reared from an egg, found in the forest, and hatched by a hen of the

common domestic fowl.

Our turkey of America is a very different species from the meleagris of

Asia and Europe; they are nearly thrice their size and weight. I have

seen several that have weighed between twenty and thirty pounds, and

some have been killed that weighed near forty. They are taller, and

have a much longer neck proportionally, and likewise longer legs, and

stand more erect; they are also very different in colour. Ours are all,

male and female, of a dark brown colour, not having a black feather on

them; but the male exceedingly splendid, with changeable colours. In

other particulars they differ not.

The tempest being over, I waited till the floods of rain had run off

the ground, then took leave of my friends, and departed. The air was

now cool and salubrious, and riding seven or eight miles, through a

pine forest, I came to Sapello bridge, to which the salt tide flows. I

here stopped, at Mr. Bailey’s, to deliver a letter from the governor.

This gentleman received me very civilly, inviting me to stay with him;

but upon my urging the necessity of my accelerating my journey, he

permitted me to proceed to Mr. L. M’Intosh’s, near the river, to whose

friendship I was recommended by Mr. B. Andrews.

Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intellectual enjoyment, which

regards human concerns, of a more excellent nature, than the

remembrance of real acts of friendship. The heart expands at the

pleasing recollection. When I came up to his door, the friendly man,

smiling, and with a grace and dignity peculiar to himself, took me by

the hand, and accosted me thus: “Friend Bartram, come under my roof,

and I desire you to make my house your home, as long as convenient to

yourself; remember, from this moment, that you are a part of my family,

and, on my part, I shall endeavour to make it agreeable,” which was

verified during my continuance in, and about, the southern territories

of Georgia and Florida; for I found here sincerity in union with all

the virtues, under the influence of religion. I shall yet mention a

remarkable instance of Mr. M’Intosh’s friendship and respect for me;

which was, recommending his eldest son, Mr. John M’Intosh, as a

companion in my travels. He was a sensible virtuous youth, and a very

agreeable companion through a long and toilsome journey of near a

thousand miles.

Having been greatly refreshed, by continuing a few days with this kind

and agreeable family, I prepared to prosecute my journey southerly.

[5] Convolvulus batata.

CHAPTER III.

I sat off early in the morning for the Indian trading-house, in the

river St. Mary, and took the road up the N. E. side of the Alatamaha to

Fort-Barrington. I passed through a well-inhabited district, mostly

rice plantations, on the waters of Cathead creek, a branch of the

Alatamaha. On drawing near the fort, I was greatly delighted at the

appearance of two new beautiful shrubs, in all their blooming graces.

One of them appeared to be a species of Gordonia,[6] but the flowers

are larger, and more fragrant than those of the Gordonia Lascanthus,

and are sessile; the seed vessel is also very different. The other was

equally distinguished for beauty and singularity; it grows twelve or

fifteen feet high, the branches ascendant and opposite, and terminate

with large panicles of pale blue tubular flowers, specked on the inside

with crimson; but what is singular, these panicles are ornamented with

a number of ovate large bracteæ, as white, and like fine paper, their

tops and verges stained with a rose-red, which, at a little distance,

has the appearance of clusters of roses, at the extremities of the

limbs: the flowers are of the Cl. Pentandria monogynia; the leaves are

nearly ovate, pointed and petioled, standing opposite to one another on

the branches.

After fifteen miles riding, I arrived at the ferry, which is near the

site of the fort. Here is a considerable height and bluff on the river,

and evident vestiges of an ancient Indian town may be seen, such as old

extensive fields, and conical mounds, or artificial heaps of earth. I

here crossed the river, which is about five hundred yards over, in a

good large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, who was married to a white

woman; he seemed an active, civil, and sensible man. I saw large, tall

trees of the Nyssa coccinea, si. Ogeeche, growing on the banks of the

river. They grow in the water, near the shore. There is no tree that

exhibits a more desirable appearance than this, in the autumn, when

their fruit is ripe, and the tree divested of its leaves; for then they

look as red as scarlet, with their fruit, which is of that colour also.

It is of the shape, but larger than the olive, containing an agreeable

acid juice. The leaves are oblong lanceolate and entire, somewhat hoary

underneath; their upper surface of a full green, and shining; the

petioles short, pedunculis multifloris. The most northern settlement of

this tree, yet known, is on Great Ogeeche, where they are called

Ogeeche limes, from their acid fruit being about the size of limes, and

their being sometimes used in their stead.

Being safely landed on the opposite bank, I mounted my horse, and

followed the high road to the ferry on St. Ille, about sixty miles

south of the Alatamaha, passing through an uninhabited wilderness. The

sudden transition from rich cultivated settlements, to high pine

forests, dark and grassy savannas, forms in my opinion no disagreeable

contrast; and the new objects of observation in the works of nature

soon reconcile the surprised imagination to the change. As soon as I

had lost sight of the river, ascending some sand-hills, I observed a

new and most beautiful species of Annona, having clusters of large

white fragrant flowers; and a diminutive but elegant Kalmia. The stems

are very small, feeble, and for the most part undivided, furnished with

little ovate pointed leaves, and terminate with a simple racemi, or

spike of flowers, salver formed, and of a deep rose red. The whole

plant is ciliated. It grows in abundance all over the moist savannas,

but more especially near ponds and bay-swamps. In similar situations,

and commonly a near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is seen a very

curious species of Annona. It is a very dwarf, the stems seldom

extending from the earth more than a foot or eighteen inches, and are

weak and almost decumbent. The leaves are long, extremely narrow,

almost lineal. However, small as they are, they retain the figure

common to the species, that is, lanceolate, broadest at the upper end,

and attenuating down to the petiole, which is very short; their leaves

stand alternately, nearly erect, forming two series, or wings, on the

arcuated stems. The flowers, both in size and colour, resemble those of

the Antrilobe, and are single from the axillæ of the leaves on incurved

pedunculi, nodding downwards. I never saw the fruit. The dens, or

caverns, dug in the sand-hills, by the great land-tortoise, called here

Gopher,[7] present a very singular appearance: these vast caves are

their castles and diurnal retreats, from whence they issue forth in the

night, in search of prey. The little mounds, or hillocks of fresh

earth, thrown up in great numbers in the night, have also a curious

appearance.

[Illustration: Annona Pygmea]

[Illustration: Annona Grandiflora]

In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, where there was a habitation,

and the people received me very civilly. I staid here all night, and

had for supper plenty of milk, butter, and very good cheese of their

own make, which is a novelty in the maritime parts of Carolina and

Georgia; the inhabitants being chiefly supplied with it from Europe and

the northern states. The next day’s progress, in general, presented

scenes similar to the preceding, though the land is lower, more level

and humid, and the produce more varied: high open forests of stately

pines, flowery plains, and extensive green savannas, checquered with

the incarnate Chironia, pulcherrima, and Asclepias fragrans, perfumed

the air whilst they pleased the eye. I met with some troublesome cane

swamps, saw herds of horned cattle, horses and deer, and took notice of

a procumbent species of Hibiscus, the leaves palmated, the flowers

large and expanded, pale yellow and white, having a deep crimson eye;

the whole plant, except the corolla, armed with stiff hair. I also saw

a beautiful species of Lupin, having pale green villous lingulate[8]

leaves; the flowers are disposed in long erect spikes; some plants

produce flowers of the finest celestial blue, others incarnate, and

some milk white, and though they all three seem to be varieties of one

species, yet they associate in separate communities, sometimes

approaching near each other’s border, or in sight at a distance. Their

districts are situated on dry sandy heights, in open pine forests,

which are naturally thin of undergrowth, and appear to great advantage;

generally, where they are found, they occupy many acres of surface. The

vegetative mould is composed of fine white sand, mixed, and coloured,

with dissolved and calcined vegetable substances; but this stratum is

not very deep, and covers one of a tenacious cinereous coloured clay,

as we may observe by the earth adhering to the roots of trees, torn up

by storms, &c. and by the little chimnies, or air holes of cray-fish,

which perforate the savannas. Turkeys, quails, and small birds, are

here to be seen; but birds are not numerous in desert forests; they

draw near to the habitations of men, as I have constantly observed in

all my travels.

I arrived at St. Ille’s in the evening, where I lodged, and next

morning having crossed over in a ferry boat, sat forward for St.

Mary’s. The situation of the territory, its soil and productions,

between these two last rivers, are nearly similar to those which I had

passed over, except that the savannas are more frequent and extensive.

It may be proper to observe, that I had now passed the utmost frontier

of the white settlements on that border. It was drawing on towards the

close of day, the skies serene and calm, the air temperately cool, and

gentle zephyrs breathing through the fragrant pines; the prospect

around enchantingly varied and beautiful; endless green savannas,

checquered with coppices of fragrant shrubs, filled the air with the

richest perfume. The gaily attired plants which enamelled the green had

begun to imbibe the pearly dew of evening; nature seemed silent, and

nothing appeared to ruffle the happy moments of evening contemplation;

when, on a sudden, an Indian appeared crossing the path, at a

considerable distance before me. On percieving that he was armed with a

rifle, the first sight of him startled me, and I endeavoured to elude

his sight, by stopping my pace, and keeping large trees between us; but

he espied me, and turning short about, sat spurs to his horse, and came

up on full gallop. I never before this was afraid at the sight of an

Indian, but at this time, I must own that my spirits were very much

agitated: I saw at once, that, being unarmed, I was in his power, and

having now but a few moments to prepare, I resigned myself entirely to

the will of the Almighty, trusting to his mercies for my preservation;

my mind then became tranquil, and I resolved to meet the dreaded foe

with resolution and cheerful confidence. The intrepid Siminole stopped

suddenly, three or four yards before me, and silently viewed me, his

countenance angry and fierce, shifting his rifle from shoulder to

shoulder, and looking about instantly on all sides. I advanced towards

him, and with an air of confidence offered him my hand, hailing him,

brother; at this he hastily jerked back his arm, with a look of malice,

rage and disdain, seeming every way discontented; when again looking at

me more attentively, he instantly spurred up to me, and with dignity in

his look and action, gave me his hand. Possibly the silent language of

his soul, during the moment of suspense (for I believe his design was

to kill me when he first came up) was after this manner: “White man,

thou art my enemy, and thou and thy brethren may have killed mine; yet

it may not be so, and even were that the case, thou art now alone, and

in my power. Live; the Great Spirit forbids me to touch thy life; go to

thy brethren, tell them thou sawest an Indian in the forests, who knew

how to be humane and compassionate.” In fine, we shook hands, and

parted in a friendly manner, in the midst of a dreary wilderness; and

he informed me of the course and distance to the trading-house, where I

found he had been extremely ill-treated the day before.

I now sat forward again, and after eight or ten miles riding, arrived

at the banks of St. Mary’s, opposite the stores, and got safe over

before dark. The river is here about one hundred yards across, has ten

feet water, and, following its course, about sixty miles to the sea,

though but about twenty miles by land. The trading company here

received and treated me with great civility. On relating my adventures

on the road, particularly the last with the Indian, the chief replied,

with a countenance that at once bespoke surprise and pleasure, “My

friend, consider yourself a fortunate man: that fellow,” said he, “is

one of the greatest villains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed

by his countrymen. Last evening he was here, we took his gun from him,

broke it in pieces, and gave him a severe drubbing: he, however, made

his escape, carrying off a new rifle gun, with which, he said, going

off, he would kill the first white man he met.”

On seriously contemplating the behaviour of this Indian towards me, so

soon after his ill treatment, the following train of sentiments

insensibly crowded in upon my mind.

Can it be denied, but that the moral principle, which directs the

savages to virtuous and praiseworthy actions, is natural or innate? It

is certain they have not the assistance of letters, or those means of

education in the schools of philosophy, where the virtuous sentiments

and actions of the most illustrious characters are recorded, and

carefully laid before the youth of civilized nations: therefore this

moral principle must be innate, or they must be under the immediate

influence and guidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor, who, on

these occasions, instantly inspires them, and as with a ray of divine

light, points out to them at once the dignity, propriety, and beauty of

virtue.

The land on, and adjacent to, this river, notwithstanding its

arenaceous surface, appears naturally fertile. The peach trees are

large, healthy, and fruitful; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, and

indigo, thrive exceedingly. This sandy surface, one would suppose, from

its loose texture, would possess a percolating quality, and suffer the

rainwaters quickly to drain off; but it is quite the contrary, at least

in these low maritime sandy countries of Carolina and Florida, beneath

the mountains; for in the sands, even the heights, where the arenaceous

stratum is perhaps five, eight, and ten feet above the clay, the earth,

even in the longest droughts, is moist an inch or two under the

surface; whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at such times, the

ground is dry, and, as it were, baked many inches, and sometimes some

feet deep, and the crops, as well as almost all vegetation, suffer in

such soils and situations. The reason of this may be, that this kind of

earth admits more freely of a transpiration of vapours, arising from

intestine watery canals to the surface; and probably these vapours are

impregnated with saline or nitrous principles, friendly and nutritive

to vegetables; however, of these causes and secret operations of nature

I am ignorant, and resume again my proper employment, that of

discovering and collecting data for the exercise of more able

physiologists.

The savannas about St. Mary’s, at this season, display a very charming

appearance of flowers and verdure; their more elevated borders are

varied with beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamasco, and plants of

a new and very beautiful species of Mimosa sensitiva, which I think as

admirable, and more charming than the celebrated Humble plant, equally

chaste and fearful of the hasty touch of the surprised admirer. The

flower is larger, of a bright damask rose colour, and exceedingly

fragrant: the whole plant is destitute of prickles, but hairy; it is

procumbent, reclining itself upon the green turf, and from these

trailing branches proceed an upright peduncle, six or eight inches

high, supporting an oblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at a

small distance, have the appearance of an exuberant field of clover;

and, what is singular, and richly varies the scene, there are

interspersed patches of the same species of plants, having flowers of

the finest golden yellow, and others snow white; but the incarnate is

most prevalent. Magnolia glauca, Itea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia

lasianthus, Ilex angustifolium, Olea Americana, Hopea tinctoria, &c.

are seated in detached groves or clumps, round about the ponds or

little lakes, at the lower end of the savannas. I observed, growing on

the banks of this sequestered river, the following trees and shrubs:

Quercus sempervirens, Q. aquatica, Q. Phillos, Q. dentata, Nyssa

aquatica, N. sylvatica, N. Ogeeche, si. coccinea, Cupressus disticha,

Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamnus frangula, Prunus laurocerasus, Cyrilla

racemiflora, Myrica cerifera, Andromeda ferruginea, Andr. nitida, and

the great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, called Pipe-stem Wood, to

which I gave the name of Andromeda formosissima, as it far exceeds in

beauty every one of this family.

The river St. Mary has its source from a vast lake, or marsh, called

Ouaquaphenogaw, which lies between Flint and Oakmulge rivers, and

occupies a space of near three hundred miles in circuit. This vast

accumulation of waters, in the wet season, appears as a lake, and

contains some large islands or knolls, of rich high land; one of which

the present generation of the Creeks represent to be a most blissful

spot of the earth: they say it is inhabited by a peculiar race of

Indians, whose women are incomparably beautiful; they also tell you

that this terrestrial paradise has been seen by some of their

enterprising hunters, when in pursuit of game, who being lost in

inextricable swamps and bogs, and on the point of perishing, were

unexpectedly relieved by a company of beautiful women, whom they call

daughters of the sun, who kindly gave them such provisions as they had

with them, which were chiefly fruit, oranges, dates, &c. and some corn

cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for safety to their own country;

for that their husbands were fierce men, and cruel to strangers: they

further say, that these hunters had a view of their settlements,

situated on the elevated banks of an island, or promontory, in a

beautiful lake; but that in their endeavours to approach it, they were

involved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted land, still as

they imagined they had just gained it, it seemed to fly before them,

alternately appearing and disappearing. They resolved, at length, to

leave the delusive pursuit, and to return; which, after a number of

inexpressible difficulties, they effected. When they reported their

adventures to their countrymen, their young warriors were enflamed with

an irresistible desire to invade, and make a conquest of, so charming a

country; but all their attempts have hitherto proved abortive, never

having been able again to find that enchanting spot, nor even any road

or pathway to it; yet they say that they frequently meet with certain

signs of its being inhabited, as the building of canoes, footsteps of

men, &c. They tell another story concerning the inhabitants of this

sequestered country, which seems probable enough, which is, that they

are the posterity of a fugitive remnant of the ancient Yamases, who

escaped massacre after a bloody and decisive conflict between them and

the Creek nation (who, it is certain, conquered, and nearly

exterminated, that once powerful people), and here found an asylum,

remote and secure from the fury of their proud conquerors. It is,

however, certain that there is a vast lake, or drowned swamp, well

known, and often visited both by white and Indian hunters, and on its

environs the most valuable hunting grounds in Florida, well worth

contending for, by those powers whose territories border upon it. From

this great source of rivers,[9] St. Mary arises, and meanders through a

vast plain and pine forest, near an hundred and fifty miles to the

ocean, with which it communicates, between the points of Amelia and

Talbert islands; the waters flow deep and gently down from its source

to the sea.

Having made my observations on the vegetable productions of this part

of the country, and obtained specimens and seeds of some curious trees

and shrubs (which were the principal objects of this excursion) I

returned by the same road to the Alatamaha, and arrived safe again at

the seat of my good friend, L. M’Intosh, esq. where I tarried a few

days to rest and refresh myself, and to wait for my young companion and

fellow pilgrim, Mr. John M’Intosh, who, being fond of the enterprise,

had been so active during my absence, in the necessary preparations,

that we had nothing to wait for now but Mrs. M’Intosh’s final consent

to give up her son to the perils and hardships of so long a journey;

which difficult point being settled, we set off with the prayers and

benevolent wishes of my companion’s worthy parents.

[6] Franklinia Alatahama.

[7] Testudo Polyphemus.

[8] Lupinus breunis, foliis integerimis oblongis villosis.

[9] Source of rivers. It is said, that St. Ille, St. Mary, and the

beautiful river Little St. Juan, which discharges its waters into the

bay of Apalachi, at St. Mark’s, take their rise from this swamp.

CHAPTER IV

Early in the morning, we mounted our horses, and in two days arrived in

Savanna; here we learned that the superintendant of Indian affairs had

left the capital, and was on his way to Augusta. I remained but one day

in Savanna, which was employed in making up and forwarding the

collections for Charleston.

The day following we set off for Augusta, which is on Savanna river, at

least an hundred and fifty miles by land from the capital, and about

three hundred by water. We followed the course of the river, and

arrived there after having had a prosperous journey, though a little

incommoded by the heats of the season.

As nothing very material occurred on the road, I shall proceed to give

a summary account of the observations I made concerning the soil,

situation, and natural productions of the country.

In our progress from the sea coast, we rise gradually, by several steps

or ascents, in the following manner: first, from the sea coast, fifty

miles back, is a level plain, generally of a loose sandy soil,

producing spacious high forests, of Pinus tæda, P. lutea, P. squarrosa,

P. echinata, 1. Quercus sempervirens, 2. Quercus aquatica, 3. Q.

phillos, 4. Q. tinctoria, 5. Q. dentata, 6. Q. prinos, 7. Q. alba, 8.

Q. finuata, 9. Q. rubra[10], Liriodendron tulipifera, Liquidambar

styraciflua, Morus rubra, Cercis tilia, Populus heterophylla, Platanus

occidentalis, Laurus sassafras, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinctoria,

Fraxinus excelsior, Nyssa, Ulmus, Juglans exaltata, Halesa, Stewartia.

Nearly one third of this vast plain is what the inhabitants call

swamps, which are the sources of numerous small rivers and their

branches: these they call salt rivers, because the tides flow near to

their sources, and generally carry a good depth and breadth of water

for small craft, twenty or thirty miles upwards from the sea, when they

branch and spread abroad like an open hand, interlocking with each

other, and forming a chain of swamps across the Carolinas and Georgia,

several hundred miles parallel with the sea coast. These swamps are fed

and replenished constantly by an infinite number of rivulets and rills,

which spring out of the first bank or ascent; their native trees and

shrubs are, besides most of those already enumerated above, as follow:

Acer rubrum, Nyssa aquatica, Chionanthus, Celtis, Fagus sylvatica,

Sambricus; and the higher knolls afford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda

and Azalea viscosa, Corypha palma, Corypha pumila, and Magnolia

grandiflora; besides, the whole surface of the ground between the trees

and shrubs appears to be occupied with canes (Arundo gigantea)

entangled with festoons of the floriferous Glycine frutescens, Bignonia

sempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, various species, Bignonia

crucigera, Bign. radicans, Lonicera sempervirens, and a multitude of

other trees, shrubs, and plants less conspicuous; and, in very wet

places, Cupressus disticha. The upper soil of these swamps is a

perfectly black, soapy, rich earth, or stiff mud, two or three feet

deep, on a foundation or stratum of calcareous fossil, which the

inhabitants call white marle; and this is the heart or strength of

these swamps; they never wear out or become poor, but, on the contrary,

are more fertile by tillage; for when they turn up this white marle,

the air and winter frosts causing it to fall like quicklime, it manures

the surface: but it has one disadvantage, that is, in great droughts,

when they cannot have water sufficient in their reservoirs to lay the

surface of the ground under water, it binds, and becomes so tough as to

burn and kill the crops, especially the old cleared lands; as, while it

was fresh and new, the great quantity of rotten wood, roots, leaves,

&c. kept the surface loose and open. Severe droughts seldom happen near

the sea coast.

We now rise a bank of considerable height, which runs nearly parallel

to the coast, through Carolina and Georgia; the ascent is gradual by

several flights or steps for eight or ten miles, the perpendicular

height whereof, above the level of the ocean, may be two or three

hundred feet (and these are called the sand-hills) when we find

ourselves on the entrance of a vast plain, generally level, which

extends west sixty or seventy miles, rising gently as the former, but

more perceptibly. This plain is mostly a forest of the great

long-leaved pine (P. palustris Linn.) the earth covered with grass,

interspersed with an infinite variety of herbaceous plants, and

embellished with extensive savannas, always green, sparkling with ponds

of water, and ornamented with clumps of evergreen, and other trees and

shrubs, as Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia glauca, Gordonia, Ilex

aquifolium, Quercus, various species, Laurus Borbonia, Chionanthus,

Hopea tinctoria, Cyrilla, Kalmia angustifolia, Andromeda, varieties,

Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos, varieties, Fothergilla, and a

new shrub of great beauty and singularity; it grows erect, seven or

eight feet high; a multitude of erect stems arise from its root; these

divide themselves into ascendant branches, which are garnished with

abundance of narrow lanceolate obtuse pointed leaves, of a light green,

smooth and shining. These branches, with their many subdivisions,

terminate in simple racemes of pale incarnate flowers, which make a

fine appearance among the leaves; the flowers are succeeded by

desiccated triquetrous pericarpi, each containing a single kernel.

The lowest sides of these savannas are generally joined by a great cane

swamp, varied with coppices and hommocks of the various trees and

shrubs already mentioned. In these swamps several rivulets take their

rise, which drain them and the adjoining savannas, and thence

meandering to the rivers through the forests, with their banks

decorated with shrubs and trees. The earth under this level plain may

be described after the following manner: the upper surface, or

vegetative mould, is a light sandy loam, generally nine inches or a

foot deep, on a stratum of cinereous coloured clay, except the

sand-hills, where the loose sandy surface is much deeper upon the clay;

stone of any sort, or gravel, is seldom seen.

The next ascent, or flight, is of much greater and more abrupt

elevation, and continues rising by broken ridges and narrow levels, or

vales, for ten or fifteen miles, when we rest again on another

extensive nearly level plain of pine forests, mixed with various other

forest trees, which continues west forty or fifty miles farther, and

exhibits much the same appearance with the great forest last mentioned;

its vegetable productions nearly the same, excepting that the broken

ridges by which we ascend to the plain are of a better soil; the

vegetative mould is mixed with particles of clay and small gravel, and

the soil of a dusky brown colour, lying on a stratum of reddish brown

tough clay. The trees and shrubs are, Pinus tæda, great black Oak,

Quercus tinctoria, Q. rubra, Laurus, Sassafras, Magnolia grandiflora,

Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halesia, Juglans acuminata, Juglans exaltata,

Andromeda arborea; and, by the sides of rivulets (which wind about and

between these hills and swamps, in the vales) Styrax latifolia, Ptelea

trifoliata, Stewartia, Calycanthus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripetala,

Azalea and others.

Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a short and natural

description of the vast plain lying between the region of Augusta and

the sea coast; for from Augusta the mountainous country begins (when

compared to the level sandy plain already passed), although it is at

least an hundred and fifty miles west, thence to the Cherokee or

Apalachian mountains; and this space may with propriety be called the

hilly country, every where fertile and delightful, continually

replenished by innumerable rivulets, either coursing about the fragrant

hills, or springing from the rocky precipices, and forming many

cascades; the coolness and purity of which waters invigorate the air of

this otherwise hot and sultry climate.

The village of Augusta is situated on a rich and fertile plain, on the

Savanna river; the buildings are near its banks, and extend nearly two

miles up to the cataracts, or falls, which are formed by the first

chain of rocky hills, through which this famous river forces itself, as

if impatient to repose on the extensive plain before it invades the

ocean. When the river is low, which is during the summer months, the

cataracts are four or five feet in height across the river, and the

waters continue rapid and broken, rushing over rocks five miles higher

up: this river is near five hundred yards broad at Augusta.

A few days after our arrival at Augusta, the chiefs and warriors of the

Creeks and Cherokees being arrived, the Congress and the business of

the treaty came on, and the negociations continued undetermined many

days; the merchants of Georgia demanding at least two millions of acres

of land from the Indians, as a discharge of their debts, due, and of

long standing; the Creeks, on the other hand, being a powerful and

proud spirited people, their young warriors were unwilling to submit to

so large a demand, and their conduct evidently betrayed a disposition

to dispute the ground by force of arms, and they could not at first be

brought to listen to reason and amicable terms; however, at length, the

cool and deliberate counsels of the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced

by liberal presents of suitable goods, were too powerful inducements

for them any longer to resist, and finally prevailed. The treaty

concluded in unanimity, peace, and good order; and the honorable

superintendant, not forgetting his promise to me, at the conclusion,

mentioned my business, and recommended me to the protection of the

Indian chiefs and warriors. The presents being distributed among the

Indians, they departed, returning home to their towns. A company of

surveyors were appointed, by the governor and council, to ascertain the

boundaries of the new purchase; they were to be attended by chiefs of

the Indians, selected and delegated by their countrymen, to assist, and

be witnesses that the articles of the treaty were fulfilled, as agreed

to by both parties in Congress.

Col. Barnet, who was chosen to conduct this business on the part of the

Georgians, a gentleman every way qualified for that important trust, in

a very friendly and obliging manner, gave me an invitation to accompany

him on this tour.

It was now about the middle of the month of May; vegetation, in

perfection, appeared with all her attractive charms, breathing

fragrance every where; the atmosphere was now animated with the

efficient principle of vegetative life; the arbustive hills, gay lawns,

and green meadows, which on every side invest the villa of Augusta, had

already received my frequent visits; and although here much delighted

with the new beauties in the vegetable kingdom, and many eminent ones

have their sequestered residence near this place, yet, as I was never

long satisfied with present possession, however endowed with every

possible charm to attract the sight, or intrinsic value to engage and

fix the esteem, I was restless to be searching for more, my curiosity

being insatiable.

Thus it is with regard to our affections and attachments, in the more

important and interesting concerns of human life.

Upon the rich rocky hills at the cataracts of Augusta, I first observed

the perfumed Rhododendron ferrugineum, white-robed philadelphus

inodorus, and cerulean Malva; but nothing in vegetable nature was more

pleasing than the odoriferous pancratium fluitans, which almost alone

possesses the little rocky islets which just appear above the water.

The preparatory business of the surveyors being now accomplished, Mr.

J. M’Intosh, yet anxious for travelling, and desirous to accompany me

on this tour, joined with me the caravan, consisting of surveyors,

astronomers, artisans, chain-carriers, markers, guides and hunters,

besides a very respectable number of gentlemen, who joined us, in order

to speculate in the lands, together with ten or twelve Indians,

altogether to the number of eighty or ninety men, all or most of us

well mounted on horseback, besides twenty or thirty pack-horses, loaded

with provisions, tents, and camp equipage.

The summer season now rapidly advancing, the air at mid-day, about this

region, is insufferably hot and sultry. We sat off from Augusta, early

in the morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on the Great Ridge, which

separates the waters of the Savanna and Alatamaha, about eighty miles

distant from Augusta. At this Lick the surveyors were to separate

themselves, and form three companies, to proceed on different routes.

On the evening of the second day’s journey, we arrived at a small

village on Little River, a branch of Savanna: this village, called

Wrightsborough, was founded by Jos. Mattock, esq. of the sect called

quakers. This public spirited man having obtained for himself and his

followers, a district, comprehending upwards of forty thousand acres of

land, gave the new town this name, in honour of Sir James Wright, then

governor of Georgia, who greatly promoted the establishment of the

settlement. Mr. Mattock, who is now about seventy years of age, healthy

and active, and presides as chief magistrate of the settlement,

received us with great hospitality. The distance from Augusta to this

place is about thirty miles; the face of the country is chiefly a plain

of high forests savannas, and cane swamps, until we approach Little

River, when the landscape varies, presenting to view high hills and

rich vales. The soil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep stratum of

reddish brown tenacious clay, and that on a foundation of rocks, which

often break through both strata, lifting their backs above the surface.

The forest trees are chiefly of the deciduous order, as, Quercus

tinctoria, Q. lasciniata, Q. alba, Q. rubra, Q. prinus, with many other

species; Celtus, Fagus sylvatica, and, on the rocky hills, Fagus

castanea, Fag. pumila, Quercus castanea; in the rich vales, Juglans

nigra, Jug. cinerea, Gleditsia triacanthos, Magnolia acuminata,

Liriodendron, Platanus, Fraxinus excelsior, Cercea, Juglans exaltata,

Carpinus, Morus rubra, Calycanthus, Halesia, Æsculus pavia, Æsc.

arborea.

Leaving the pleasant town of Wrightsborough, we continued eight or nine

miles through a fertile plain and high forest, to the north branch of

Little River, being the largest of the two, crossing which, we entered

an extensive fertile plain, bordering on the river, and shaded by trees

of vast growth, which at once spoke its fertility. Continuing some time

through these shade groves, the scene opens, and discloses to view the

most magnificent forest I had ever seen. We rise gradually a sloping

bank of twenty or thirty feet elevation, and immediately entered this

sublime forest. The ground is perfectly a level green plain, thinly

planted by nature with the most stately forest trees, such as the

gigantic Black[11] Oak (Q. tinctoria) Liriodendron, Juglans nigra,

Platanus, Juglans exaltata, Fagus sylvatica, Ulmus sylvatica,

Liquidambar styraciflua, whose mighty trunks, seemingly of an equal

height, appeared like superb columns. To keep within the bounds of

truth and reality, in describing the magnitude and grandeur of these

trees, would, I fear, fail of credibility; yet, I think I can assert,

that many of the black oaks measured eight, nine, ten, and eleven feet

diameter five feet above the ground, as we measured several that were

above thirty feet girt, and from hence they ascend perfectly straight,

with a gradual taper, forty or fifty feet to the limbs; but, below five

or six feet, these trunks would measure a third more in circumference,

on account of the projecting jambs, or supports, which are more or

less, according to the number of horizontal roots that they arise from:

the Tulip tree, Liquidambar, and Beech, were equally stately.

Not far distant from the terrace, or eminence, overlooking the low

grounds of the river, many very magnificent monuments of the power and

industry of the ancient inhabitants of these lands are visible. I

observed a stupendous conical pyramid, or artificial mount of earth,

vast tetragon terraces, and a large sunken area, of a cubical form,

encompassed with banks of earth; and certain traces of a large Indian

town, the work of a powerful nation, whose period of grandeur perhaps

long preceded the discovery of this continent.

After about seven miles progress through this forest of gigantic Black

Oaks, we enter on territories which exhibit more varied scenes: the

land rises almost insensibly by gentle ascents, exhibiting desert

plains, high forests, gravelly and stony ridges, ever in sight of rapid

rivulets; the soil, as already described. We then passed over large

rich savannas or natural meadows, wide-spreading cane swamps, and

frequently old Indian settlements, now deserted and overgrown with

forest. These are always on or near the banks of rivers, or great

swamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevating them above the

surrounding groves. I observed, in the ancient cultivated fields, 1.

Diospyros, 2. Gleditsia triacanthos, 3. Prunus Chicasaw, 4. Callicarpa,

5. Morus rubra, 6. Juglans exaltata, 7. Juglans nigra, which inform us,

that these trees were cultivated by the ancients, on account of their

fruit, as being wholesome and nourishing food. Though these are natives

of the forest[12], yet they thrive better, and are more fruitful, in

cultivated plantations, and the fruit is in great estimation with the

present generation of Indians, particularly Juglans exaltata commonly

called shell-barked hiccory; the Creeks store up the latter in their

towns. I have seen above an hundred bushels of these nuts belonging to

one family. They pound them to pieces, and then cast them into boiling

water, which, after passing through fine strainers, preserves the most

oily part of the liquid: this they call by a name which signifies

Hiccory milk; it is as sweet and rich as fresh cream, and is an

ingredient in most of their cookery, especially homony and corn cakes.

After four days moderate and pleasant travelling, we arrived in the

evening at the Buffalo Lick. This extraordinary place occupies several

acres of ground, at the foot of the S. E. promontory of the Great

Ridge, which, as before observed, divides the rivers Savanna and

Alatamaha. A large cane swamp and meadows, forming an immense plain,

lies S. E. from it; in this swamp I believe the head branches of the

great Ogeeche river take their rise. The place called the Lick contains

three or four acres, is nearly level, and lies between the head of the

cane swamp and the ascent of the Ridge. The earth, from the superficies

to an unknown depth, is an almost white or cinereous coloured tenacious

fattish clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into great caves, pursuing

the delicious vein. It is the common opinion of the inhabitants, that

this clay is impregnated with saline vapours, arising from fossile

salts deep in the earth; but I could discover nothing saline in its

taste, but I imagined an insipid sweetness. Horned cattle, horses, and

deer, are immoderately fond of it, insomuch, that their excrement,

which almost totally covers the earth to some distance round this

place, appears to be perfect clay; which, when dried by the sun and

air, is almost as hard as brick.

We were detained at this place one day, in adjusting and planning the

several branches of the survey. A circumstance occurred during this

time, which was a remarkable instance of Indian sagacity, and had

nearly disconcerted all our plans, and put an end to the business. The

surveyor having fixed his compass on the staff, and about to ascertain

the course from our place of departure, which was to strike Savanna

river at the confluence of a certain river, about seventy miles

distance from us; just as he had determined upon the point, the Indian

chief came up, and observing the course he had fixed upon, spoke, and

said it was not right; but that the course to the place was so and so,

holding up his hand, and pointing. The surveyor replied, that he

himself was certainly right, adding, that that little instrument

(pointing to the compass) told him so, which, he said, could not err.

The Indian answered, he knew better, and that the little wicked

instrument was a liar; and he would not acquiesce in its decisions,

since it would wrong the Indians out of their land. This mistake (the

surveyor proving to be in the wrong) displeased the Indians; the

dispute arose to that height, that the chief and his party had

determined to break up the business, and return the shortest way home,

and forbad the surveyors to proceed any farther: however, after some

delay, the complaisance and prudent conduct of the colonel made them

change their resolution: the chief became reconciled, upon condition

that the compass should be discarded, and rendered incapable of serving

on this business; that the chief himself should lead the survey; and,

moreover, receive an order for a very considerable quantity of goods.

Matters being now amicably settled, under this new regulation, the

colonel having detached two companies on separate routes, Mr. M’Intosh

and myself attaching ourselves to the colonel’s party, whose excursion

was likely to be the most extensive and varied, we sat off from the

Buffalo Lick, and the Indian chief, heading the party, conducted us on

a straight line, as appeared by collateral observation, to the desired

place. We pursued nearly a north course up the Great Ridge, until we

came near the branches of Broad River, when we turned off to the right

hand, and encamped on a considerable branch of it. At this place we

continued almost a whole day, constituting surveyors and astronomers,

who were to take the course, distance, and observations on Broad River,

and from thence down to its confluence with the Savanna.

The Great Ridge consists of a continued high forest; the soil fertile,

and broken into moderately elevated hills, by the many rivulets which

have their sources in it. The heights and precipices abound in rock and

stone. The forest trees and other vegetable productions are the same as

already mentioned about Little River: I observed Halesia, Styrax,

Æsculus pavia, Æsc. sylvatica, Robinia hispida, Magnolia acuminata,

Mag. tripetala, and some very curious new shrubs and plants,

particularly the Physic-nut, or Indian Olive. The stems arise many from

a root, two or three feet high; the leaves sit opposite, on very short

petioles; they are broad, lanceolate, entire, and undulated, having

smooth surfaces of a deep green colour. From the bosom of each leaf is

produced a single oval drupe, standing erect, on long slender stems; it

has a large kernel, and thin pulp. The fruit is yellow when ripe; and

about the size of an olive. The Indians, when they go in pursuit of

deer, carry this fruit with them, supposing that it has the power of

charming or drawing that creature to them; from whence, with the

traders, it has obtained the name of the Physic-nut, which means, with

them, charming, conjuring, or fascinating. Malva scandens, Felix

scandens, perhaps species of Trichomanes; the leaves are palmated, or

radiated; it climbs and roves about, on shrubs, in moist ground. A very

singular and elegant plant, of an unknown family, called Indian

lettuce, made its first appearance in these rich vales; it is a

biennial; the primary or radical leaves are somewhat spatuled, or

broad, lanceolate, and obtuse pointed, of a pale yellowish green,

smooth surface, and of a delicate frame, or texture; these leaves,

spread equally on every side, almost reclining on the ground; from

their centre arises a straight upright stem, five, six, or seven feet

high, smooth and polished; the ground of a dark purple colour, which is

elegantly powdered with greenish yellow specks; the stem, three fourths

of its length, is embellished with narrow leaves, nearly of the same

form of the radical ones, placed at regular distances, in verticillate

order. The superior one-fourth division of this stem is formed into a

pyramidal spike of flowers, rather diffuse; these flowers are of the

hexandria, large, and expanded; of a dark purple colour, delicately

powdered with green, yellow, and red, and divided into six parts, or

petals; these are succeeded by triquetrous dry pericarpi, when ripe.

This great ridge is a vast extended projection of the Cherokee or

Alegany mountains, gradually increasing in height and extent, from its

extremity at the Lick, to its union with the high ridge of mountains

anciently called the Apalachian mountains; it every where approaches

much nearer the waters of the Alatamaha than those of the Savanna. At

one particular place, where we encamped, on the Great Ridge, during our

repose there part of a day, our hunters going out, understanding that

their route was to the low lands on the Ocone, I accompanied them: we

had not rode above three miles before we came to the banks of that

beautiful river. The cane swamps, of immense extent, and the oak

forests, on the level lands, are incredibly fertile; which appears from

the tall reeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other.

Before we left the waters of Broad River, having encamped in the

evening on one of its considerable branches, and left my companions, to

retire, as usual, on botanical researches, on ascending a steep rocky

hill, I accidentally discovered a new species of Caryophyllata (Geum

odoratissimum); on reaching to a shrub, my foot slipped, and, in

recovering myself, I tore up some of the plants, whose roots filled the

air with animating scents of cloves and spicy perfumes.

On my return towards camp, I met my philosophic companion, Mr.

M’Intosh, who was seated on the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found

highly entertained by a very novel and curious natural exhibition, in

which I participated with high relish. The waters at this place were

still and shoal, and flowed over a bed of gravel just beneath a rocky

rapid: in this eddy shoal were a number of little gravelly pyramidal

hills, whose summits rose almost to the surface of the water, very

artfully constructed by a species of small cray-fish (Cancer macrourus)

which inhabited them: here seemed to be their citadel, or place of

retreat for their young, against the attacks and ravages of their

enemy, the gold-fish: these, in numerous bands, continually infested

them, except at short intervals, when small detachments of veteran

cray-fish sallied out upon them, from their cells within the gravelly

pyramids, at which time a brilliant sight presented: the little

gold-fish instantly fled from every side, darting through the

transparent waters like streams of lightning; some even sprang above

the surface, into the air, but all quickly returned to the charge,

surrounding the pyramids as before, on the retreat of the cray-fish; in

this manner the war seemed to be continual.

The gold-fish is about the size of the anchovy, nearly four inches

long, of a neat slender form; the head is covered with a salade of an

ultramarine blue, the back of a reddish brown, the sides and belly of a

flame, or of the colour of a fine red lead; a narrow dusky line runs

along each side, from the gills to the tail; the eyes are large, with

the iris like burnished gold. This branch of Broad River is about

twelve yards wide, and has two, three, and four feet depth of water,

and winds through a fertile vale, almost overshadowed on one side by a

ridge of high hills, well timbered with Oak, Hiccory, Liriodendron,

Magnolia acuminata, Pavia sylvatica, and on their rocky summits, Fagus

castanea, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Kalmia latifolia, Cornus Florida,

&c.

One of our Indian young men, this evening, caught a very large salmon

trout, weighing about fifteen pounds, which he presented to the

colonel, who ordered it to be served up for supper. The Indian struck

this fish, with a reed harpoon, pointed very sharp, barbed, and

hardened by the fire. The fish lay close under the steep bank, which

the Indian discovered and struck with his reed; instantly the fish

darted off with it, whilst the Indian pursued, without extracting the

harpoon, and with repeated thrusts drowned it, and then dragged it to

shore.

After leaving Broad River, the land rises very sensibly, and the

country being mountainous, our progress became daily more difficult and

slow; yet the varied scenes of pyramidal hills, high forests, rich

vales, serpentine rivers, and cataracts, fully compensated for our

difficulties and delays. I observed the great Aconitum napellus,

Delphinium perigrinum, the carminative Angelica lucida,[13] and

cerulean Malva.

We at length happily accomplished our line, arriving at the little

river, where our hunters bringing in plenty of venison and turkeys, we

had a plentiful feast at supper. Next morning we marked the corner

tree, at the confluence of Little River and the Savanna; and, soon

after, the Indians amicably took leave of us, returning home to their

towns.

The rocks and fossils, which constitute the hills of this middle

region, are of various species, as, Quartsum, Ferrum, Cos, Silex,

Glarea, Arena, Ochra, Stalactites, Saxum, Mica, &c. I saw no signs of

Marble, Plaster, or Lime-stone; yet there is, near Augusta, in the

forests, great piles of a porous friable white rock, in large and

nearly horizontal masses, which seems to be an heterogeneous concrete,

consisting of pulverized sea-shells, with a small proportion of sand;

it is soft, and easily wrought into any form, yet of sufficient

consistence for constructing any building.

As for the animal productions, they are the same which originally

inhabited this part of North America, except such as have been

affrighted away since the invasion of the Europeans. The buffalo (Urus)

once so very numerous, is not at this day to be seen in this part of

the country; there are but few elks, and those only in the Apalachian

mountains. The dreaded and formidable rattle-snake is yet too common,

and a variety of other serpents abound, particularly that admirable

creature the glass-snake: I saw a very large and beautiful one, a

little distance from our camp. The alligator, a species of crocodile,

abounds in the rivers and swamps, near the sea coast, but is not to be

seen above Augusta. Bears, tygers[14], wolves, and wild cats (Felis

cauda truncata) are numerous enough; and there is a very great variety

of Papilio and Phalena, many of which are admirably beautiful, as well

as other insects of infinite variety.

The surveyors having completed their observations, we sat off next day

on our return to Augusta, taking our route generally through the low

lands on the banks of the Savanna. We crossed Broad River, at a newly

settled plantation, near its confluence with the Savanna. On my arrival

at Augusta, finding myself a little fatigued, I staid there a day or

two, and then sat off again for Savanna, the capital, where we arrived

in good health.

Having, in this journey, met with extraordinary success, not only in

the enjoyment of an uninterrupted state of good health, and escaping

ill accidents, incident to such excursions, through uninhabited

wildernesses, and an Indian frontier, but also in making a very

extensive collection of new discoveries of natural productions; on the

recollection of so many and great favours and blessings, I now, with a

high sense of gratitude, presume to offer up my sincere thanks to the

Almighty, the Creator and Preserver.

[10] 1. Live Oak. 2. Della leaved Water Oak. 3. Willow-leaved Oak. 4.

Great Black Oak. 5. Narrow-leaved Wintergreen Oak. 6. Swamp White Oak.

7. White Oak. 8. Spanish Oak. 9. Red Oak.

[11] Gigantic Black Oak. Querc. tinctoria; the bark of this species of

oak is found to afford a valuable yellow dye. This tree is known by

the name of Black Oak in Pennsylvania, New-Jersey, New-York, and New

England.

[12] The Chicasaw plumb I think must be excepted, for though certainly

a native of America, yet I never saw it wild in the forests, but

always in old deserted Indian plantations: I suppose it to have been

brought from the S. W. beyond the Missisippi, by the Chicasaws.

[13] Called Nondo in Virginia: by the Creek and Cherokee traders,

White Root.

[14] This creature is called, in Pennsylvania and the northern States,

Panther; but in Carolina and the southern States, is called Tyger;

they are very strong, much larger than any dog, of a yellowish brown,

or clay colour, having a very long tail; they are a mischievous

animal, and prey on calves, young colts, &c.

CHAPTER V.

Having completed my Hortus Siccus, and made up my collections of seeds

and growing roots, the fruits of my late western tour, and sent them to

Charleston, to be forwarded to Europe, I spent the remaining part of

this season in botanical excursions to the low countries, between

Carolina and East Florida, and collected seeds, roots, and specimens,

making drawings of such curious subjects as could not be preserved in

their native state of excellence.

During this recess from the high road of my travels, having obtained

the use of a neat light cypress canoe, at Broughton Island, a

plantation, the property of the Hon. Henry Laurens, esq. I stored

myself with necessaries for the voyage, and resolved upon a trip up the

Alatamaha.

I ascended this beautiful river, on whose fruitful banks the generous

and true sons of liberty securely dwell, fifty miles above the white

settlements.

How gently flow thy peaceful floods, O Alatamaha! How sublimely rise to

view, on thy elevated shores, yon Magnolian groves, from whose tops the

surrounding expanse is perfumed, by clouds of incense, blended with the

exhaling balm of the Liquidambar, and odours continually arising from

circumambient aromatic groves of Illicium, Myrica, Laurus, and

Bignonia.

When wearied, with working my canoe against the impetuous current

(which becomes stronger by reason of the mighty floods of the river,

with collected force, pressing through the first hilly ascents, where

the shores on each side present to view rocky cliffs rising above the

surface of the water, in nearly flat horizontal masses, washed smooth

by the descending floods, and which appear to be a composition, or

concrete, of sandy lime-stone) I resigned my bark to the friendly

current, reserving to myself the controul of the helm. My progress was

rendered delightful by the sylvan elegance of the groves, cheerful

meadows, and high distant forests, which in grand order presented

themselves to view. The winding banks of the river, and the high

projecting promontories, unfolded fresh scenes of grandeur and

sublimity. The deep forests and distant hills re-echoed the cheering

social lowings of domestic herds. The air was filled with the loud and

shrill hooping of the wary sharp-sighted crane. Behold, on yon decayed,

defoliated Cypress tree, the solitary wood pelican, dejectedly perched

upon its utmost elevated spire; he there, like an ancient venerable

sage, sets himself up as a mark of derision, for the safety of his

kindred tribes. The crying-bird, another faithful guardian, screaming

in the gloomy thickets, warns the feathered tribes of approaching

peril; and the plumage of the swift sailing squadrons of Spanish

curlews (white as the immaculate robe of innocence) gleam in the

cerulean skies.

Thus secure and tranquil, and meditating on the marvellous scenes of

primitive nature, as yet unmodified by the hand of man, I gently

descended the peaceful stream, on whose polished surface were depicted

the mutable shadows from its pensile banks; whilst myriads of finny

inhabitants sported in its pellucid floods.

The glorious sovereign of day, clothed in light refulgent, rolling on

his gilded chariot, hastened to revisit the western realms. Grey

pensive eve now admonished us of gloomy night’s hasty approach: I am

roused by care to seek a place of secure repose, ere darkness came on.

Drawing near the high shores, I ascended the steep banks, where stood a

venerable oak. An ancient Indian field, verdured over with succulent

grass, and checquered with coppices of fragrant shrubs, offers to my

view the Myrica cerifera, Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur.

Borbonia, Rhamnus frangula, Prunus Chicasaw, Prun. laurocerasus, and

others. It was nearly encircled with an open forest of stately pines

(Pinus palustris) through which appears the extensive savanna, the

secure range of the swift roebuck. In front of my landing, and due

east, I had a fine prospect of the river and low lands on each side,

which gradually widened to the sea-coast, and gave me an unconfined

prospect, whilst the far distant sea-coast islands, like a coronet,

limited the hoary horizon.

My barque being securely moored, and having reconnoitered the

surrounding groves, and collected fire-wood, I spread my skins and

blanket by my cheerful fire, under the protecting shade of the

hospitable Live Oak, and reclined my head on my hard but healthy couch.

I listened, undisturbed, to the divine hymns of the feathered songsters

of the groves, whilst the softly whispering breezes faintly died away.

The sun now below the western horizon, the moon majestically rising in

the east; again the tuneful birds become inspired; how melodious is the

social mock-bird! the groves resound the unceasing cries of the

whip-poor-will; the moon about an hour above the horizon; lo! a dark

eclipse[15] of her glorious brightness came slowly on; at length, a

silver thread alone encircled her temples: at this boding change, an

universal silence prevailed.

Nature now weary, I resigned myself to rest; the night passed over; the

cool dews of the morning awoke me; my fire burnt low; the blue smoke

scarce rose above the moistened embers; all was gloomy: the late starry

skies, now overcast by thick clouds, warned me to rise and be going.

The livid purple clouds thickened on the frowning brows of the morning;

the tumultuous winds from the east, now exerted their power. O peaceful

Alatamaha! gentle by nature! how thou wert ruffled! thy wavy surface

disfigured every object, presenting them obscurely to the sight, and

they at length totally disappeared, whilst the furious winds and

sweeping rains bent the lofty groves, and prostrated the quaking grass,

driving the affrighted creatures to their dens and caverns.

The tempest now relaxed, its impetus being spent, and a calm serenity

gradually took place; by noon the clouds broke away, the blue sky

appeared, the fulgid sun-beams spread abroad their animating light, and

the steady western wind resumed his peaceful reign. The waters were

purified, the waves subsided, and the beautiful river regained its

native calmness. So it is with the varied and mutable scenes of human

events on the stream of life. The higher powers and affections of the

soul are so blended and connected with the inferior passions, that the

most painful feelings are excited in the mind when the latter are

crossed: thus in the moral system, which we have planned for our

conduct, as a ladder whereby to mount to the summit of terrestrial

glory and happiness, and from whence we perhaps meditated our flight to

heaven itself, at the very moment when we vainly imagine ourselves to

have attained its point, some unforeseen accident intervenes, and

surprises us; the chain is violently shaken, we quit our hold and fall:

the well-contrived system at once becomes a chaos; every idea of

happiness recedes; the splendour of glory darkens, and at length

totally disappears; every pleasing object is defaced, all is deranged,

and the flattering scene passes quite away; a gloomy cloud pervades the

understanding, and when we see our progress retarded, and our best

intentions frustrated, we are apt to deviate from the admonitions and

convictions of virtue, to shut our eyes upon our guide and protector,

doubt of his power, and despair of his assistance. But let us wait and

rely on our God, who in due time will shine forth in brightness,

dissipate the envious cloud, and reveal to us how finite and

circumscribed is human power, when assuming to itself independent

wisdom.

But, before I leave the river Alatamaha, we will proceed to give a

farther and more particular account of it. It has its source in the

Cherokee mountains near the head of Tugilo, the great west branch of

Savanna, and, before it leaves them, is joined and augmented by

innumerable rivulets; thence it descends through the hilly country,

with all its collateral branches, and winds rapidly amongst the hills

two hundred and fifty miles, and then enters the flat plain country, by

the name of the Oakmulge; thence meandering an hundred and fifty miles,

it is joined on the east side by the Ocone, which likewise heads in the

lower ridges of the mountains. After this confluence, having now gained

a vast acquisition of waters, it assumes the name of Alatamaha, when it

becomes a large majestic river, flowing with gentle windings through a

vast plain forest, near an hundred miles, and enters the Atlantic by

several mouths. The north channel, or entrance, glides by the heights

of Darien, on the east bank, about ten miles above the bar, and running

from thence with several turnings, enters the ocean between Sapello and

Wolf islands. The south channel, which is esteemed the largest and

deepest, after its separation from the north, descends gently, winding

by M’Intosh’s and Broughton islands; and lastly, by the west coast of

St. Simon’s island, enters the ocean, through St. Simon’s Sound,

between the south end of the island of that name and the north end of

Jekyl island. On the west banks of the south channel, ten or twelve

miles above its mouth, and nearly opposite Darien, are to be seen, the

remains of an ancient fort, or fortification; it is now a regular

tetragon terrace, about four feet high, with bastions at each angle;

the area may contain about an acre of ground, but the fosse which

surrounded it is nearly filled up. There are large Live Oaks, Pines,

and other trees, growing upon it, and in the old fields adjoining. It

is supposed to have been the work of the French or Spaniards. A large

swamp lies betwixt it and the river, and a considerable creek runs

close by the works, and enters the river through the swamp, a small

distance above Broughton Island. About seventy or eighty miles above

the confluence of the Oakmulge and Ocone, the trading path, from

Augusta to the Creek nation, crosses these fine rivers, which are there

forty miles apart. On the east banks of the Oakmulge, this trading road

runs nearly two miles through ancient Indian fields, which are called

the Oakmulge fields: they are the rich low lands of the river. On the

heights of these low grounds are yet visible monuments, or traces, of

an ancient town, such as artificial mounts or terraces, squares and

banks, encircling considerable areas. Their old fields and planting

land extend up and down the river, fifteen or twenty miles from this

site.

If we are to give credit to the account the Creeks give of themselves,

this place is remarkable for being the first town or settlement, when

they sat down (as they term it) or established themselves, after their

emigration from the west, beyond the Missisippi, their original native

country. On this long journey they suffered great and innumerable

difficulties, encountering and vanquishing numerous and valiant tribes

of Indians, who opposed and retarded their march. Having crossed the

river, still pushing eastward, they were obliged to make a stand, and

fortify themselves in this place, as their only remaining hope, being

to the last degree persecuted and weakened by their surrounding foes.

Having formed for themselves this retreat, and driven off the

inhabitants by degrees, they recovered their spirits, and again faced

their enemies, when they came off victorious in a memorable and

decisive battle. They afterwards gradually subdued their surrounding

enemies, strengthening themselves by taking into confederacy the

vanquished tribes.

And they say, also, that about this period the English were

establishing the colony of Carolina, and the Creeks, understanding that

they were a powerful, warlike people, sent deputies to Charleston,

their capital, offering them their friendship and alliance, which was

accepted, and, in consequence thereof, a treaty took place between

them, which has remained inviolable to this day. They never ceased war

against the numerous and potent bands of Indians, who then surrounded

and cramped the English plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches, Wapoos,

Santees, Yamasees, Utinas, Icosans, Paticas, and others, until they had

extirpated them. The Yamasees and their adherents sheltering themselves

under the power and protection of the Spaniards of East Florida, they

pursued them to the very gates of St. Augustine; and the Spaniards

refusing to deliver them up, these faithful intrepid allies had the

courage to declare war against them, and incessantly persecuted them,

until they entirely broke up and ruined their settlements, driving them

before them, till at length they were obliged to retire within the

walls of St. Augustine and a few inferior fortified posts on the sea

coast.

After a few days, I returned to Broughton Island. The Cherokees and

their confederates being yet discontented, and on bad terms with the

white people, it was unsafe to pursue my travels in the north western

regions of Carolina. And recollecting many subjects of natural history,

which I had observed in the south of the isthmus of Florida, when on a

journey some years ago with my father, John Bartram, that were

interesting, and not taken notice of by any traveller; and as it was

then in the autumn and winter, having reason to think that very many

curious subjects had escaped our researches; I now formed the

resolution of travelling into East Florida; accordingly, I immediately

wrote to Doctor Fothergill, in order that he might know where to direct

to me.

[15] The air at this time being serene, and not a cloud to be seen, I

saw this annual almost total autumnal eclipse in its highest degree of

perfection.

PART II.

CHAPTER I.

We are, all of us, subject to crosses and disappointments, but more

especially the traveller; and when they surprise us, we frequently

become restless and impatient under them: but let us rely on

Providence, and by studying and contemplating the works and power of

the Creator, learn wisdom and understanding in the economy of nature,

and be seriously attentive to the divine monitor within. Let us be

obedient to the ruling powers in such things as regard human affairs,

our duties to each other, and all creatures and concerns that are

submitted to our care and controul.

In the month of March, 1774, I sat off from Savanna, for Florida,

proceeding by land to the Alatamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably

in short excursions, picking up curiosities, until the arrival of a

small vessel at Frederica, from Savanna, which was destined to an

Indian trading house high up St. John’s, in East Florida. Upon

information of this vessel’s arrival, I immediately took boat and

descended the Alatamaha, calling by the way of Broughton Island, where

I was kindly received by Mr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens’s agent. Leaving

Broughton Island in the evening, I continued descending the south

channel nine or ten miles, when, after crossing the sound, I arrived at

Frederica, on the island of St. Simon, where I was well received and

entertained by James Spalding, esq. This gentleman carrying on a very

considerable trade, and having extensive connections with the Indian

tribes of East Florida, furnished me with letters to his agents

residing at his trading houses, ordering them to furnish me with

horses, guides, and every other convenient assistance.

Before the vessel was ready to sail again for St. John’s, I had time to

explore the island. In the cool of the morning early, I rode out of the

town, directing my course to the south end of the island. After

penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which almost surrounded the town on

the land side, suddenly a very extensive and beautiful green savanna

opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in breadth near a mile,

well stocked with horned cattle, horses, sheep, and deer. Following an

old highway, now out of repair, across the Savanna, I ascended the

sloping green bank, and entered a noble forest of lofty pines, and then

a venerable grove of Live Oaks, under whose shady spreading boughs

opened a spacious avenue, leading to the former seat of general

Oglethorp, but now the property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leaving

this town, I was led into a high pine forest; the trees were tall, and

generally of the species called Broom-pine (P. palustris Linn.) the

surface of the ground covered with grass, herbage, and some shrubbery:

I continued through this forest nearly in a direct line towards the sea

coast, five or six miles, when the land became uneven, with ridges of

sand-hills, mixed with sea shells, and covered by almost impenetrable

thickets, consisting of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia) Myrica, Ilex

aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, Cassine, Sideroxylon, Ptelea, Halesia,

Callicarpa, Carpinus, entangled with Smilax, pseudo-china, and other

species, Bignonia sempervirens, B. crucigera, Rhamnus volubilis, &c.

This dark labyrinth is succeeded by a great extent of salt plains,

beyond which the boundless ocean is seen. Betwixt the dark forest and

the salt plains, I crossed a rivulet of fresh water, where I sat down a

while to rest myself, under the shadow of sweet Bays and Oaks; the

lively breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of the superb

Crinum, called, by the inhabitants, White Lily. This admirable beauty

of the sea-coast dwells in the humid shady groves, where the soil is

made fertile and mellow by the admixture of sea shells. The delicate

structure of its spadix, its green broad leaves, and the texture and

whiteness of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphorbia picta,

Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea erecta, were also seated in front of my

resting place, as well as the Lycium salsum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.) a

very beautiful ever-green shrub, its cerulean flowers, and coral red

berries, always on its branches, forming not the least of its beauties.

Time now admonishing me to rise and be going, I, with reluctance, broke

away from this assembly of maritime beauties.

Continuing on, southward, the salt plains on my left hand insensibly

became narrower, and I at length reached the strand, which was level,

firm, and paved with shells, and afforded me a grand view of the

boundless ocean.

O thou Creator supreme, almighty! how infinite and incomprehensible thy

works! most perfect, and every way astonishing!

I continued nearly a mile along this firm sandy beach, the waves of the

sea sometimes washing my horse’s feet. I observed a great variety of

shell-fish, as Echinitis, Corallinus, Patella, Medusa, Buccina, Concha

venerea, Auris marina, Cancer, Squilla, &c. some alive, and others

dead, having been cast upon the beach by the seas, in times of tempest,

where they became a prey to sea fowl, and other maritime animals, or

perished by the heat of the sun and burning sands. At length I doubled

the utmost south point of St. Simon’s, which forms the north cape of

the south channel of the great river Alatamaha. The sound, just within

this cape, forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the south end of the

island, on the opposite side of which I beheld a house and farm, where

I soon arrived. This delightful habitation was situated in the midst of

a spacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near the strand of the bay,

commanding a view of the inlet. A cool area surrounded the low but

convenient buildings, from whence, through the groves, was a spacious

avenue into the island, terminated by a large savanna; each side of the

avenue was lined with bee-hives, to the number of fifty or sixty; they

seemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a lively image of a colony

that has attained to a state of power and affluence, by the practice of

virtue and industry.

When I approached the house, the good man, who was reclining on a

bear-skin, spread under the shade of a Live Oak, smoking his pipe, rose

and saluted me: “Welcome, stranger, I am indulging the rational

dictates of nature, taking a little rest, having just come in from the

chace and fishing.” After some conversation and rest, his servant

brought a bowl of honey and water, a very refreshing and agreeable

liquor, of which I drank. On rising to take my departure, he objected,

and requested me to stay and dine with him; and on my pleading, for

excuse, the necessity of my being at Frederica, “Yet, I pray you, stay

a little, I will soon have some refreshment for you.” Presently was

laid before us a plentiful repast of venison, &c. our drink being honey

and water, strengthened by the addition of brandy. Our rural table was

spread under the shadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays, fanned by the

lively salubrious breezes wafted from the spicy groves. Our music was

the responsive love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert and

gay mock-bird; whilst the brilliant humming-bird darted through the

flowery groves, suspended in air, and drank nectar from the flowers of

the yellow Jasmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and sweet Azalea.

But yet, how awfully great and sublime is the majestic scene eastward!

the solemn sound of the beating surf strikes our ears; the dashing of

yon liquid mountains, like mighty giants, in vain assail the skies;

they are beaten back, and fall prostrate upon the shores of the

trembling island.

Taking leave of my sylvan friend, I sat off on my return to the town,

where I arrived before night, having observed, on the way, many curious

vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma (or great Cabbage

Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha repens, frondibus expansis,

flabelliformibus, plicatis, stipit. spinosis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto)

Corypha) obliqua, caudice arboreo ascendente, frondibus expansis,

flabelliformibus, plicatis, stipit. serratis, Cyrilla, Tillandsia

monostachya, Till. lingulata, or Wild Pine; both these curious

vegetables are parasites, living on the substance of others,

particularly on the limbs of the Live Oak; the latter species is a very

large flourishing plant, greatly resembling, at some distance, a well

grown plant of the Bromelia Ananas: the large deep green leaves are

placed in a imbricated order, and ascendant; but their extremities are

reflex, their bases gibbous and hollowed, like a ladle, and capable of

containing near a pint of water: heavy tempests of wind and rain tear

these plants from the trees; yet they live and flourish on the earth,

under the shadow of these great Live Oaks. A very large part of this

island had formerly been cleared and planted by the English, as

appeared evidently to me, by vestiges of plantations, ruins of costly

buildings, highways, &c. but it is now overgrown with forests.

Frederica was the first town built by the English in Georgia, and was

founded by general Oglethorp, who began and established the colony. The

fortress was regular and beautiful, constructed chiefly with brick, and

was the largest, most regular, and perhaps most costly, of any in North

America, of British construction: it is now in ruins, yet occupied by a

small garrison; the ruins also of the town only remain; peach trees,

figs, pomegranates, and other shrubs, grow out of the ruinous walls of

former spacious and expensive buildings, not only in the town, but at a

distance in various parts of the island; yet there are a few neat

houses in good repair, and inhabited: it seems now recovering again,

owing to the public and liberal spirit and exertions of J. Spalding,

esq. who is president of the island, and engaged in very extensive

mercantile concerns.

Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee Country, the Extensive Territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the Country of the Chactaws. Containing an Account of the Soil and Natural Productions of Those Regions, Together With Observations on the Manners of the Indians. · 第 1 / 14 章