FALKLAND.
"Where Ceres gilds the fertile plain,
And richly waves the yellow grain;
And Lomond hill wi' misty showers
Aft weets auld Falkland's royal towers."
RICHARD GALL.
At the foot of the beautiful Lomond hills, lie the town and palace of
Falkland--a palace now, alas! like Scotland's ancient royalty, among
the things that were.
Many old trees in the neighbourhood, the remnant of the ancient royal
forest of Falkland, still impart to the fragment of the palace an air
both melancholy and venerable; for it is but a fragment that
survives, and makes one think with sorrow and anger of that
remorseless system of absorption which is laying Scotland bare, and,
year by year, sweeps southward some portion of her money and
vitality. A day is coming, perhaps, when Holyrood, the last and
least beautiful of our Scottish palaces, may be abandoned like the
rest, if not to some ignoble purpose, at least to ruin and decay.
The fine old pile of Falkland was successively engrafted on the
ancient tower of the Thanes of Fife, by the third, fourth, and fifth
Jameses, until it formed a quadrangle, one side of which alone
survives the decay consequent to its desertion, and the neglect with
which every feature of Scotland's ancient state is treated by the
partial and (so far as _she_ is concerned) penurious government to
which she yearly hands over the six millions of her revenue.
Lying under the northern brow of a mountain, and so situated as to be
concealed from the sun during a considerable portion of the winter,
Falkland is a quaint-looking place, removed from any great
thoroughfare, and still inhabited by a primitive race of weavers, who
have, generation after generation, followed the same trade as their
fathers. Their dwellings are thatched; each cottar has his kailyard;
and, with much of our old Scottish simplicity and contentment, they
jog through life as their "forbears" did before them; and it is no
uncommon thing to hear the older burghers quoting the learned
sayings, and relating the quaint doings of his Majesty James VI., as
if he still kept court amongst them.
Lying at the foot of the steep eastern Lomond, with its vanes and
carved pinnacles overtopping the foliage of its old green copsewood,
the ruined palace of Falkland, when seen from a little distance,
resembles an ancient Scoto-French chateau, and the white smoke of its
burgh-town (now diminished to a village), as it curls from the green
foliage that fringes the glen, makes rustic and beautiful this
solitary place, which was the scene of many a sorrow and many a joy
to the illustrious line of our ancient kings.
The blending of the solid Palladian with the lightness of Gothic
architecture, imparts to the fragment of the palace now remaining a
singularly pleasing effect. On each floor of the most ancient
portion there are six windows, divided by stone mullions, beautifully
moulded, and between them are buttresses formed by foliaged columns
and Tuscan entablatures, which support inverted trusses covered with
the most elaborate carving. Designed by the same unfortunate
architect who planned the Tower of James V. at Holyrood, the western
front is in the castellated style, and exhibits two finely
proportioned round towers, between which is the lofty archway forming
the entrance to what was once the grand quadrangle. In former times,
this arch was closed at night by strong gates, and was defended by
loopholes in the towers which flank it. Medallions in exquisite
relief, the frequent initials, crests, and arms of James V. and Mary
of Guise and Lorraine, the gallant thistle with its imperial crown,
deep panels with many a coat armorial, grotesque waterspouts and
gothic pinnacles, with many an elaborate niche and beautiful statue,
all combine to show that Falkland, if not the largest, was one of the
most beautiful of Scotland's ancient palaces.
The gay cardinal had tarried on his way from Edinburgh, having made a
little detour round the Moss of Kirkforthar to visit a certain fair
dame, who is still known in Fifeshire tradition as the Lady Vane;
thus it was the forenoon of the 24th July, before he approached
Falkland; and on the next night Jane Seton was--to die.
Matters of state, rather than her safety, had drawn the cardinal to
Falkland. An ambassador was coming from England, and against that
ambassador he had resolved to bias the mind of James V.
Despite his ecclesiastical severity, and despite all that has been
urged against the character of this determined prelate--our Scottish
Wolsey--we must assert fearlessly, that he was as true a Scotsman as
ever breathed: and that should go far to redeem his errors in the
present day, when Scottish spirit and Scottish patriotism are
somewhat scarce commodities. Beaton was the sternest, the most
active and distinguished ecclesiastic of his time. The Protestant
faith recoiled before him, and its defender "by the grace of God,"
Henry VIII. of England, laid fruitlessly many plots for his death by
assassination; but Beaton's master mind circumvented them all. He
was too sagacious, and perhaps too worldly, to be superstitious, even
at that time; and whatever may have been his errors and his failings
(and these, God wot, were not few), his steady maintenance of our
Scottish honour and independence should ensure him some little
credit, even in the present age. It cannot be denied that he viewed
the tenets of the Calvinists with contempt, for he considered them as
the natural enemies of Scotland, of her church, and of himself; hence
his indomitable attachment to that church which he considered the
only true path to Heaven, and whose tenets he upheld by death and
fire, and sealed by his own blood.
Cardinal Beaton had a grave, firm, warm, and confident mode of
expression, which was never used without producing a due effect on
the frank and manly James V., who admired his lofty spirit, his keen
perception in the field and cabinet, the vastness and profundity of
his political projects; his staunch maintenance of the national
dignity against English aggression, his avowed hostility to Henry
VIII., which, with his bold and reflective character, together with
his merciless persecution of all schismatics, combined to make him
the first man in Scotland, and the most formidable prince of the
church in Europe.
The summit of the steep and lofty Easter Lomond, which rises abruptly
up from Falkland, was veiled in mist, but below the sunbeams glanced
along its sides of dark brown heath, as the cardinal's train rode
through the stately park of the palace. It was a glorious summer
day; that morning a shower had fallen, and everything looked fresh
and beautiful; the Rose-loch, with its flowery islets, where the
snowy swan and dusky ouzel built their nests among the water-lilies,
was glittering with light; and the old woods of Falkland and
Drumdreel rustled their heavy foliage in the gentle wind.
James V. sat in the recess of a mullioned window, and gazed
listlessly at the summer landscape, which included the whole strath
of Eden, the fertile and magnificent Howe of Fife, from Cupar to
Strathmiglo, spread before him, bright with verdure and glittering
with sunlight; but James was caressing a little dog that had belonged
to his Magdalene. A ribbon encircled its neck; and, though worn and
faded, he would not permit it to be removed, "for," as he said, "her
dear pretty hands had tied it there." Again and again James looked
sadly at the ribbon, and thus he saw neither the vast landscape nor
the cardinal's glittering train, which (headed by Leslie of Balquhan)
swept round the palace on the soft sward, and entered the quadrangle.
James was in deep mourning for the queen. His doublet, trunk
breeches, hose, and rosettes were of black satin, lightly laced. His
mantle was of black velvet, with a cross of white silk sewn thereon.
All the ornaments of the apartment had been removed, save a large
crucifix, which stood on the ebony table, and a portrait of his
grandfather James III., whose golden locks made him the original of
"the yellow-haired laddie," a song and air composed for him by his
favourite musician Rodgers. The walls were covered with rich French
tapestry, exhibiting landscapes embroidered with green and gold. The
furniture was all of the darkest walnut wood, elaborately carved in
the fashion of James III., and inlaid with mosaics from Florence--the
thistle and the fleur-de-lis studded with their golden leaves the oak
beams and deep panels of the ceiling.
Moulded, and cusped with stone, the gothic windows were filled with
lozenged panes in leaden frames, stained with arms and devices; and
the curtains which shaded them were of Venetian brocade.
Absorbed in his grief, the king for some time past had abandoned all
his favourite amusements--horses, hounds, hawks, music, and
masquerading, had all been forgotten; for the livelong day he sat
alone and brooded over the memory of Magdalene of France. This
lethargy communicated itself to the court. The dogs lay sleeping in
the yard; the hooded hawks winked and nodded on their perches; the
royal standard hung still and unwaven on the gateway; the swans
seemed to sleep on the loch; and the arquebusier at the archway
leaned on the boll of his weapon, and dozed, while the pages, who had
been playing with quoits in the park, slept on the sunny benches
before the gate.
The approaching train electrified the inhabitants of the palace.
"The cardinal himself, or may the devil take me!" cried little Lord
Claud Hamilton, the king's favourite page, a saucy boy of sixteen,
with a long feather in his cap, and a precocious moustache on his
upper lip, as he sprang off the bench, and all the pages rushed into
the palace to announce the intelligence.
The dogs barked, and the hawks screamed and flapped their wings.
The arquebusier shouldered his arquebuse, and turned out the guard;
the arms rattled on the pavement; the drum beat; and the whole palace
of Falkland was aroused like that of the sleeping beauty in the wood.