The question of wintering is always of interest and for that reason is
always seasonable. In treating the question I do not expect to give any
new points to experts, but many of the readers of this magazine are
beginners, and are looking to this valuable journal for information on
this as well as on all other apicultural matters. Many successful
apiarists of large experience claim that all wintering should be done in
cellars, or other special depositories; with these I have no quarrel,
but never having wintered except on summer stands, I am unable to speak
thereof from personal experience. One objection to this plan of
wintering I can well imagine will force itself into the minds of a large
majority, viz.: the expense required to fit up as it should be fitted,
with regard to ventilation and temperature, such a special depository as
is necessary in order to guarantee success and the objection of itself
will probably prevent that majority from incurring the required expense.
For the benefit of the same majority I will give in detail the plan of
wintering on summer stands, adopted by myself with perfect success, and
which I have made use of for eighteen years or more, and that too on
Langstroth frames, with single walled seventh-eight inch pine hives.
As theories in regard to matters connected with apiculture are of
little consequence when compared with actual facts. I will not attempt
to theorize now, but will detail the facts for the use of any who may
desire to know them.
When the honey season ends, which with myself is about the 10th of
September, I examine the condition of every colony, crowd each colony on
to seven frames I intend they shall all be strong enough to cover fully
that number and see that each frame is at least filled with sealed
stores in its upper half the whole length. Later on when I get ready to
back for winter I extract if necessary from those combs that are more
than two-thirds filled with stores and combs throughout the brood
chamber are equalized and placed in a position where the colony can at
times get at them if desired. When the temperature falls so low that the
colony begins to cluster closely I force the cluster to one side or
other of the brood chamber, which can easily be done, by moving the
frames on which the cluster is formed. Prior to this, however, I have
stimulated the queen by feeding regularly each day a small amount of
sugar syrup, and thus kept the colony rearing brood as long as possible.
After the cluster is forced to the side of the hive I place a “Hill’s
Device,” or some substitute therefor, over the frames, and cover the
bees with a light porous blanket. Burlap or cotton duck is as good as
anything for this purpose. The “Hill’s Device” under the blanket forms a
means of communication for the bees with every frame in the hive, and
that too without danger of becoming chilled. As the hive in use is wide
enough for ten frames I use one and a half inch division board in each
side of the hive, which allows the seven frames to be spread apart a
little more than desirable for summer use. After covering the frames in
closely so that not a bee can show his head outside, I put on an upper
story and fill it one-third full of forest leaves pressed lightly down,
and use a cover with one and a half inch hole bored in each end for
ventilation.
I give a large entrance, using a bridge about four inches wide for the
bees to crawl under, which prevents the easy access of sudden draughts
into the hive. The only other protection than that prescribed above,
found in my apiary is a close osage hedge, six feet high on the north
and west sides. With the above means of protection my bees have
withstood the rigors of our eastern winters for years, with a
temperature varying from 20 degrees above to 20 degrees below zero, and
some seasons without a purifying flight from middle of November to
middle of the following February. Many mornings with the thermometer
below zero in January I have found a warm current of air being forced
out from the entrance, so strong as to be perceptibly felt upon the back
of the hand. I know not and care not whether others may agree with me or
not, I state the facts as I find them, and have no hesitation whatever
in advising every beginner to follow the methods outlined above.--_J. E.
P. in B. K. M._, (_Mass._)