The scene now represents Chunar, a fortress of considerable natural
strength, situated on an insulated rock, about 150 feet high, forming
the extremity of a low range of hills, on the right bank of the Ganges,
about eighteen miles from Benares. In December, 1765, the Company’s
troops, commanded by Major Pemble, stormed the place, and were repulsed
with severe loss. The defences were irregular, following the outline of
the eminence on which they were erected: several heavy batteries were
mounted on the ramparts; but the native garrison trusted more to the
inaccessible nature of the approach, and to the facilities it possessed
for rolling down stones upon any assailants,—of which missiles, a large
supply was always held in readiness on the ramparts. The fortress was
again invested, and on the 8th of February, 1765, the _Killadar_ of the
Fort surrendered the keys to Major Stibbert. It is an invalid station,
although not reckoned a healthy spot, owing to the great heat arising
from the stone: it completely commands the river, and is used as a place
of confinement for state-prisoners. Snakes are numerous, and boys bring
the cobra di capello for sale to boats. In the Magazine is a large black
slab, on which the deity of the Fort is said to be ever present, with
the exception of from daybreak until the hour of nine A.M., during which
time he is at Benares. Tradition asserts, that the Fort would never have
been taken by the English, but for the absence of their god Burtreenath.
A little above the Fort is a temple: tradition states it to contain a
chest, which cannot be opened, unless the party opening it lose his
hand—four thieves having so suffered once in an attempt upon it. It is
also recorded, that the deified giant Bhīm Singh, built the fortress of
Chunar in one day, and rendered it impregnable.
A native has just succeeded in crossing the river on a bundle of reeds;
his clothes placed on the top of his head are safe from wet, and with
one hand he paddles along. On the outskirts of the village is seen a
remarkably ancient Banyan-tree, the Ficus Indica.
In front of the tomb of a _Pīr_ (a Muhammadan saint), three followers of
the prophet are at their devotions. A _Shāmiyāna_, or awning, screens
the tomb from the sun and rain: the standards of Hussan and Hussein are
displayed, and daily coloured lanterns are suspended from the top of
high bamboos.