From Modane to Paris--Lovely scenery--St. Michel--St. Jean de Maurienne
--Epierre--Paris--Notre Dame--French immorality--La Manche--"Dear old
foggy London"--Reflections and conclusion.
After a thorough examination of our luggage by the French authorities,
we leave Modane for Paris, a very powerful engine taking us in tow. At
Modane the scenery is very grand: fine waterfalls, rocky mountains with
great pine forests, and their slopes sometimes enlivened by the pink
blossom of the almond tree--a capital place for Alpine climbers.
In consequence of the immense masses of loose overhanging rock, we had
to advance slowly and cautiously, and we frequently looked up with some
dread lest they should fall upon and utterly crush us. It was
interesting to see the congealed waterfalls among the fir-crowned
heights above, and some of the great romantic ravines filled with masses
of frost-bound snow; while here and there we came upon small wooden
crosses, marking the grave of some too adventurous climber or poor
peasant guide. By-and-by we pass through a series of short tunnels,
great care being necessary, as works are constantly going on to support
the weight of the great mountain boulders and to prevent the tunnels
falling in; for the water drainage saturates and loosens the masonry.
One now obtains some idea of the enormous expenses of the line, and the
difficulties contended with it. Descending, we lose for a time the
snow-clad hills, which have been our companions for so long; the
rivulets join and increase to a rushing, tumbling stream, following
madly after us, until we stop at St. Michel, the first station after
leaving Modane. Here a great mountain close to us completely covered
with snow rendered the air around intensely cold. Continuing our route
down into the valley, still accompanied by the lively, chattering
stream, now widening into a roaring river, we have a great mountain
range on either side, and pass through a lofty narrow gorge. Looking
back, I could scarcely discern the cleft in the rocky barrier through
which we had come.
And now we see a pretty homely scene among these snow-clad hills. At St.
Jean de Maurienne, close to the railway, was a road leading to the
valley down which troops of school-children tripped merrily along, led
by Sisters of Mercy in their quaint, white winged caps, the healthy,
joyous faces of the little ones evidencing to the kindness and care of
these good women. What indeed would the inhabitants of these wintry
mountain regions, so far from the civilization of great cities, do
without their clergy, and the noble sisterhood who devote themselves to
a life of usefulness and charity?
Later on we passed through another rocky defile, where we saw a little
octagonal chapel perched upon a hilly promontory, overlooking a bridge
across the river. Here the great mountain peaks were quite lost in the
clouds, and the ruggedness of the scenery was grand in the extreme. Some
of the immense pinnacles and jutting rocks were most fantastically
shaped, like the residence of some fabled giant, in contrast to the
little ruined castles we frequently saw, adding a touch of old-world
romance to the landscape:
"The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been
In mockery of man's art."
The valley between the mountains now widens, showing in the distance
fertile plains, and now and then a picturesque little village, and other
signs of human life and energy. Then again the scenery varies,
magnificent snow-clad mountain peaks rising some 7000 or 8000 feet above
us. Mont Blanc lies behind this range to the right, but is lost in the
clouds--we making our way down to the valley of the Rhone, alone with
the rushing stream, nothing else disturbing the silence of the sublime
grandeur around.
Almost suddenly we descend to Epierre, where there is a pretty little
iron bridge spanning the foaming river. Here the hillsides slope down
gradually more and more, and every inch of ground is thriftily
cultivated, the industry of the French far exceeding that of the
Italians, who are for the most part a careless, easy-going race of
beings. At Acquebelle we stopped. The marshes in the neighbourhood
render it very unhealthy. At Mont Melian the route lies through fertile
plains, the snowy Alps being now almost left behind. The landscape
towards Chambery and Viviers is something like the Italian lake
district. Passing Aix-les-Bains, we run along the borders of the long
narrow lake Bourget, a fine coach road lying between us, affording a
very beautiful drive. Aix, the popular watering-place, is celebrated for
its sulphurous springs and vestiges of ancient Roman baths there. This
was a refreshing change of scenery, but the lake seemed somewhat
monotonous after the beauties of Como. At the end of the lake is a small
promontory with a castellated building, commanding a fine view of the
distant Alps.
The route after Culoz is considerably elevated. We pass several
beautiful waterfalls, and at length cross the Rhone, through whose
lovely valley we wind with just sufficient daylight to see its beauties.
"All the hues,
From the rich sunset to the rising star,
Their magical variety diffuse:
And now they change: a paler shadow strews
Its mantle o'er the mountains; parting day
Dies like the Dolphin, whom each pang imbues
With a new colour as it gasps away,
The last still loveliest, till--'tis gone, and all is grey."
Travelling through the night, we reach Paris at early morn (April 13th),
and are sharply reminded, by the severe cold, of the difference in
temperature we have lately been accustomed to in sunny Italy; the
vegetation and all else is covered with silver frost.
Paris--the gay, beautiful, busy Paris--is as brilliant as ever; every
one seemingly bent on pleasure, light and volatile as the air they
breathe. In this city life hovers April-like between a tear and a smile!
Visiting the great Cathedral of Notre Dame, we witnessed an impressive
funeral service. The coffin in the centre of the nave, near the
transept, was covered with flowers, and lighted candles were placed
around it. The friends and relations having assembled, several priests,
deacons, and acolytes appeared, and the service commenced. So far as the
priests were concerned it was very mechanical, even to the elevation of
the Host, and the sprinkling of the coffin and friends of the deceased
with holy water; but the dirge-like chanting in and between the service
was very beautiful and solemn. Many coffins were brought in and conveyed
to the different chapels within the Cathedral during this service. It
would appear that the length of the ceremonies depend upon the amount of
money paid for them: but, as in the confessional, the priests profit
more, I fear, than either the dead or the living.
On another occasion, we were present at a preparation for the Holy
Communion in one of the chapels. Some twenty or thirty young girls,
robed in white, with long veils, were sitting together, their friends
and relatives seated at some little distance on the other side. The
priest having read and lectured, some fine chants were sung by the young
maidens, and they were dismissed with a blessing.
While in Paris this time, I was struck with the number of indecent
photographs by no means to be confounded with works of art, in the
windows of shops in the Rue de Rivoli, and indeed almost everywhere;
such photographs, as we should never allow to be exhibited in London,
yet here nothing was thought of it. Even ladies stopped to examine them
without a blush. Indeed, it appeared to me that such is the impudent
immorality and impurity now in Paris, that such an expression as an
innocent blush would be difficult to detect, more especially as the
conscience--that delicate sympathy of the mind which would cause it to
shrink from all that was not perfectly pure and beautiful--is made to
retire and give place to reason and materialism. The pleasure and
satisfaction of the senses seems to be all that they consider worth
living for. Pleasure is God, and both the soul and body bow before it.
Poor France, after so much suffering and national disgrace, still fondly
hugs the filthy rags of Irreligious Reason, which she sadly calls
_liberté_, _equalité_, and _fraternité_.
Next morning (April 14th), we crossed the Channel in delightfully smooth
water, and arrived in London safely once more. Dear old London, with all
thy fogs I love thee still! Every true Englishman, even after travelling
in climates more genial than his own, ever feels a tenderness in
returning to his own island home once more. Taken as a whole, there is
no city like London; no country or even climate like that of England.
Although we have no majestic snow-capped Alps around us, nor the
eternal blue skies and sunny climate of Italy, nor the classical and
ancient mementoes of Rome and Greece,--yet we have wild mountain
scenery, beautiful lakes, lovely undulating and richly timbered
landscapes, dimpled by happy homesteads where the silver stream flows
sweetly by; and there are our magnificent coast headlands and beautiful
seaside resorts, great populous cities, with their splendid public
buildings and fine parks. And as a rule, I believe, there is no country
so healthy, no life so pure as ours, whatever may be said to the
contrary.
In the travels of the last few months, we have seen much of the sublime
majesty and loveliness of Nature; the wealth of art treasures in
painting, sculpture, and architecture that adorns fair Italy; the
inspired works of the gifted men of past ages, so eloquently telling
their noble thoughts, expressive of reverence and love for the
beautiful--proofs indeed of their great and magnificent genius, and that
fair things cannot die. We have also seen something of the wondrous yet
sad mementoes of the mighty Pagan nations entombed in their once great
cities--vast sepulchres of a splendid past; those Titanic minds which
governed in their time the whole of the known world; a few beautiful but
crumbling columns, all that is now visible of their glory and conquering
power. On such ground we tread lightly, reverencing the great and mighty
dead. From these we turn to the young and vigorous Christian nations
planted in their stead, and in thus contemplating the past and the
present, and the wondrous power and goodness of God, one cannot but be
struck with the truth and beauty of the ninetieth psalm, and also
exclaim, as did the psalmist, "Lord, what is man, that Thou art mindful
of him?"
APPENDIX.
NOTE A.
THE LONDON GARIBALDIAN EXCURSION VOLUNTEERS.
The following, printed on Red Cards, was issued throughout London and
many of the larger towns:--
"_Card of Membership._
"EXCURSION TO SOUTH ITALY.
"A select party of English Excursionists intend to visit South Italy.
The Excursionists will be furnished with means of self-defence, and,
with a view of recognizing each other, will be attired in a picturesque
and uniform costume.
"General Garibaldi has liberally granted the excursionists a free
passage to Sicily and Italy, and they will be supplied with rations and
clothing suitable for the climate. Information to be obtained at Captain
Edward S----'s offices, 8, Salisbury Street, Strand, London, W.C.
"All persons desirous of joining the excursion, or willing to aid the
same with their subscriptions, are requested to communicate immediately
with the Committee of the Garibaldi Fund, at 8, Salisbury Street,
Strand, London."
"_Circular issued in reply to Applicants._
"_August ----, 1860._
"SIR,
"In reply to your letter of the--inst., I beg to forward you the
following particulars:--
"1. You will be provided with a free passage, uniform, accoutrements,
and rations, and your pay to commence from the day you land.
"2. You can leave the English Excursionists at any moment; but should
you do so before their return to England, you will forfeit all claim to
pensions, medals, etc., which you may obtain.
"3. A personal interview is imperative, when you can learn all further
particulars.
"The Excursionists expect to leave within a fortnight from this date.
Three days' notice will be given to those going.
"Yours faithfully,
"EDWARD S----,
"Captain Garibaldi's Staff."
NOTE B (p. ix., Preface).
The following is from a Leading Article of the _Daily Telegraph_, March
10th, 1884:--
"Another suicide, occasioned by losses at the gaming-table, is reported
from Monte Carlo, and, commenting upon the sad occurrence, a local
newspaper makes the alarming statement that since the 1st of January
nineteen similar cases of self-destruction have taken place upon the
same spot, the victims having, without exception, been ruined by play.
It will be remembered that on the 15th of last month Lord Edmund
Fitzmaurice was asked, in the House of Commons, whether the attention of
her Majesty's Government had been drawn to the frequent suicides of
which the Principality of Monaco had recently been the scene, and
whether any remonstrances had been addressed by the Foreign Office to
France and Italy, urging those Powers to suppress the last public
gaming-tables existing in Europe. The Under-Secretary for Foreign
Affairs gave the stereotyped answer that no representations had been
made by Lord Granville to foreign Powers upon this subject, and there
the matter ended. Since the middle of last month the catalogue of
suicides at Monaco has been swollen by the addition of five or six
further victims to the Moloch of play; nor can it be wondered at if
under these circumstances a loud demand that the Casino at Monte Carlo
should be forcibly closed has been made, not only by many public writers
in France and Italy, but still more by permanent residents upon the
Mediterranean Riviera. Thus we read in a powerful article contributed
by M. Edmond Planchut to the _Revue des Deux Mondes_--an abridged
translation of which has just appeared in one of our monthly
magazines--that the inhabitants of Nice, Mentone, Cannes, Marseilles,
and Genoa, and the more respectable members of the foreign colonies
scattered along that beautiful coast, are entirely agreed upon two
points: First, as to the necessity of protesting without intermission
against the immunity conceded to the ever-open gaming-tables at Monte
Carlo; and, secondly, as to the expediency of petitioning France and
Italy to put a stop to this flagrant scandal. 'It would, indeed, be
monstrous,' adds M. Edmond Planchut, 'if it were found impossible to
suppress in one of the smallest States of Europe a blighting evil which
has been extinguished by the Governments of more important Powers.'
"In April, 1882, many petitions, urging the suppression of the Monte
Carlo tables, were presented to the French Chamber, which, in M.
Planchut's words, 'passed to the order of the day, after hearing M. de
Freycinet's remarks in opposition to the prayer of the memorialists.' A
month later the French Senate sent these petitions back to the Minister
of Foreign Affairs, with a more or less outspoken endorsement of their
prayer. If, indeed, the Governments installed at Paris and at Rome were
of one mind upon this subject, there can be little doubt that the fatal
Casino at Monte Carlo would not long be permitted to exist. 'And why,'
asks M. Planchut, 'should there not be perfect accord between Italy and
France on this topic? It is not a question whether France exercises a
kind of protectorate over the Principality of Monaco, or whether the
House of Savoy still regards the Prince of Monaco as its vassal,
despite the circumstance that in 1860 Italy abandoned her rights over
his little domain. France and Italy should be animated by one paramount
desire--the extinction of these infamous gaming-tables; and, if France
believes herself to possess the right of speaking with more respectful
firmness than her neighbour to Prince Charles III., it is simply because
Monaco is surrounded on all sides by French territory.' The bitter
experiences of the season which is now in full swing at Monte Carlo
render the present moment peculiarly propitious for demanding the
abolition of an establishment which is the head-centre of vice, infamy,
and ruin in one of the most exquisitely lovely spots upon the face of
the earth. Who that has ever read Lord Brougham's description of what he
called 'his discovery of Cannes' can have forgotten his enthusiasm when
recounting the myriad charms and attractions of that delicious coast?
They had already been recited by Dr. Arnold in a well-known passage from
one of his 'Lectures upon Modern History,' which expatiates upon the
horrors of the siege of Genoa, and contrasts grim-visaged war with the
divine natural beauty of the scene in the midst of which it was carried
on by Masséna, who was himself a native of Nice. 'Winter,' observes Dr.
Arnold, 'had passed away, and spring returned, so early and so
beautiful, upon that garden-like coast, sheltered, as it is, from the
north winds by its belt of mountains, and open to the full rays of the
bountiful southern sun. Spring returned, and clothed the hill-sides
within the lines with its fresh verdure. But that verdure was no longer
the mere delight of the careless eye of luxury, refreshing the citizens
with its liveliness and softness when they repaired thither from the
city to enjoy the surpassing beauty of the prospect. The green slopes
were now visited for a very different object. Ladies of the highest rank
might be seen cutting up every plant which it was possible to turn to
food, and bearing home the commonest weeds of the roadside as a precious
treasure.' During that memorable blockade, maintained by the Austrians
on land and by the British fleet under Lord Keith at sea, Masséna and
the French troops held on grimly to the besieged city of Genoa, until
twenty thousand of its innocent inhabitants had perished by that most
awful and lingering of deaths, famine. It would be no extravagant
estimate to believe that during the fourscore years and more which have
since elapsed, the demon of play, enthroned along the whole of the
Riviera, has caused as much misery to its hapless victims as the fatal
siege of Genoa, which Dr. Arnold selected as exemplifying the direful
horrors of which war was the author in 1800.
"M. Planchut has little difficulty in showing to what an extent the
cities and resorts in the neighbourhood of Monte Carlo are suffering
from their proximity to that pernicious spot. Of its seductive
attractions there is no need to speak in detail. The visitors find at
its Casino all the best newspapers and magazines of civilization laid
out for their amusement, to which are added an excellent theatre, an
unsurpassed orchestra, and--'pour comble de malheur'--open tables at
which any stranger can play at roulette, or at trente-et-quarante, upon
presentation of a card of address. Mentone, says M. Planchut, which is
the nearest resort to Monte Carlo, is neither rich, populous, nor
luxurious. 'While there has been a surprising increase in the population
of Ems, Wiesbaden, and Hombourg since the abolition of their tables,
the population of Mentone has scarcely increased by two thousand souls
since its annexation by France. Mentone will not be possible as a winter
residence for invalids until the tables have disappeared from the
littoral.' Nice also suffers, says this caustic French censor, from its
proximity to Monte Carlo. 'Unfortunately, people play at the Masséna and
Mediterranean clubs in Nice as much as at Monaco. The passion for
gambling has permeated all ranks of society at Nice, until it has
infected the very tradespeople--has even descended to the humblest poor
of its port. Walk round the town on a fête day, and you will see in the
old quarters, upon the quays, and in the open air, roulette tables in
full swing.' The Masséna Club, anxious to detain wealthy strangers at
Nice, and to keep them away from Monaco, finds its gambling-rooms too
small, and is extending its accommodation. The result is that the owners
of the lovely villas, the luxurious hotels, and the abounding apartments
at Nice, Cannes, and many other similar resorts are bitterly complaining
of a want of tenants and guests. Prudent fathers of families are
naturally slow to take young sons to a city where play rules supreme,
and from which Monte Carlo is accessible by trains which never cease
running. Still less do they care to expose their daughters to mingling
with that crowd of questionable females, coming from all parts of the
world, and constituting what M. Planchut calls the 'monde interlope,'
which assembles every winter at Monte Carlo and Nice. The inevitable
consequence is that 'the value of land increases in proportion to its
distance from the Principality of Monaco.' M. Planchut does well to base
his demand for the suppression of Monte Carlo upon arguments pointing
rather to political economy than the public morality. In England,
however, we are bound to remember that within fifty hours of our shores
an open gambling-house exists, to the destruction of the peace and
happiness of many English families. 'Never,' says the writer of an
excellent article based upon M. Planchut's contribution to the _Revue
des Deux Mondes_, 'has the French Government more freely sanctioned
lotteries, tombolas, and the opening of tripots disguised as artistic
and literary clubs than at present; never has it so completely resigned
its control over betting, whether in gambling-houses or the racecourse.'
To such a Government it is obvious that arguments founded upon the
pecuniary advantages rather than the morals of its sons and daughters
should be addressed. How many more suicides will have to take place at
Monte Carlo before France and Italy will make up their minds to improve
its gambling-tables off the face of the earth?"
A LIST OF
_KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S
PUBLICATIONS._
_1, Paternoster Square,
London._
A LIST OF
KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S
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CONTENTS.
PAGE PAGE
GENERAL LITERATURE 2 | POETRY 30
INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC | WORKS OF FICTION 37
SERIES 26 | BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG 38
MILITARY WORKS 29 |
GENERAL LITERATURE.
_ADAMSON, H. T., B.D._--=The Truth as It Is In Jesus.= Crown 8vo,
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=The Three Sevens.= Crown 8vo, _5s. 6d._
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_A. K. H. B._--=From a Quiet Place.= A New Volume of Sermons. Crown
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_ALLEN, Rev. R., M.A._--=Abraham: his Life, Times, and Travels,= 3800
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_ALLIES, T. W., M.A._--=Per Crucem ad Lucem=. The Result of a Life. 2
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_AMOS, Professor Sheldon._--=The History and Principles of the Civil
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_ANDERDON, Rev. W. H._--=Fasti Apostolici=; a Chronology of the
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_ARMSTRONG, Richard A., B.A._--=Latter-Day Teachers.= Six Lectures.
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_BAGEHOT, Walter._--=The English Constitution.= Third Edition. Crown
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_BAGENAL, Philip H._--=The American-Irish and their Influence on Irish
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_BAKER, Sir Sherston, Bart._--=The Laws relating to Quarantine.=
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_BALDWIN, Capt. J. H._--=The Large and Small Game of Bengal and the
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_BALLIN, Ada S. and F. L._--=A Hebrew Grammar.= With Exercises
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_BARLOW, James H._--=The Ultimatum of Pessimism.= An Ethical Study
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_BARNES, William._--=Outlines of Redecraft (Logic).= With English
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_BAUR, Ferdinand, Dr. Ph._--=A Philological Introduction to Greek and
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_BELLARS, Rev. W._--=The Testimony of Conscience to the Truth and
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+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's Note: |
| |
| Typographical errors changed: |
| |
| Page xi changed Musquitos to Mosquitos |
| Page xii changed Smollet's to Smollett's |
| Page xii changed Stephano to Stefano |
| Page xii Canalia probably should be Canali |
| Page xiii changed pieta to pietà |
| Page xiii changed Pinacotheca to Pinacoteca |
| Page xvi changed Guarda to Garda |
| Page xvi changed Caro to Carlo |
| Page xvi changed Ambrogia to Ambrogio |
| Page 66 changed proprietaire to propriétaire |
| Page 76 changed facade to façade |
| Page 76 changed Corregio to Correggio |
| Page 83 changed Stephano to Stefano |
| Page 83 Canalia probably should be Canali |
| Page 86 changed Bapistery to Baptistery |
| Page 86 piu possibly should be più |
| Page 87 changed Bapistry to Baptistery (twice) |
| Page 94 changed Venizia to Venezia |
| Page 100 changed Santissime to Santissimo |
| Page 110 changed Furoi to Fuori |
| Page 111 changed Giotti's to Giotto's |
| Page 111 changed Cammaceini to Camuccini |
| Page 111 changed Moderno to Maderno |
| Page 114 changed jaspar to jasper |
| Page 115 changed Briscia to Brescia |
| Page 115 changed Pancrozio to Pancrazio |
| Page 119 changed Pieta to Pietà |
| Page 119 changed Pinacotheca to Pinacoteca |
| Page 124 changed Pieta to Pietà |
| Page 125 changed Buonarotti to Buonaroti |
| Page 130 changed Pinacotheca to Pinacoteca |
| Page 131 changed Belvidere to Belvedere (twice) |
| Page 142 changed agreeeable to agreeable |
| Page 144 changed piazzi to piazze |
| Page 148 Gaimpino might possibly be Giampino or Ciampino |
| Page 179 changed opthalmia to ophthalmia |
| Page 183 changed emeshed to enmeshed |
| Page 191 changed Vittoria to Vittorio |
| Page 196 changed tesselated to tessellated |
| Page 198 changed Dominico to Domenico |
| Page 198 changed Marborara to Martorana |
| Page 202 changed Palmero to Palermo |
| Page 204 changed Guiseppe to Giuseppe |
| Page 205 changed Societa to Società |
| Page 206 changed Mennotti to Menotti |
| Page 221 changed Frejus to Fréjus |
| Page 227 changed Baptistry to Baptistery |
| Page 229 changed Guliano to Giuliano (twice) |
| Page 231 changed d'oevre to d'oeuvre |
| Page 232 changed Medicii to Medici |
| Page 241 changed inextricately to inextricably |
| Page 249 changed tesselated to tessellated |
| Page 253 changed Piazetta to Piazzetta |
| Page 254 changed Deci to Dieci |
| Page 256 changed Mahommedan to Mohammedan |
| Page 262 changed piazetta to piazzetta |
| Page 265 changed plesant to pleasant |
| Page 267 Princepili probably should be Principi |
| Page 270 changed della to delle |
| Page 270 changed della to dei |
| Page 274 changed Guarda to Garda |
| Page 278 changed san to San |
| Page 280 changed Guilietta to Giulietta |
| Page 280 changed Signoni to Signori |
| Page 282 changed Pinacoleca to Pinocateca |
| Page 285 changed Guarda to Garda |
| Page 285 changed Sermoine to Sirmione |
| Page 289 changed begining to beginning |
| Page 295 changed worshiping to worshipping |
| Page 296 changed Pelegrini to Pellegrini |
| Page 300 changed Ambrogia to Ambrogio |
| Page 307 changed Pinacothua to Pinacoteca |
| Page 307 changed Scienzi to Scienze |
| Page 315 changed della to delle |
| Page 316 changed Emmanele to Emmanuele |
| Page 319 changed delle to della |
| Page 320 changed Pont to Ponte |
| Page 321 changed della to delle |
| Page 323 changed Michelo to Michele |
| Page 344 changed beseiged to besieged |
| Page 364 changed minature to miniature (twice) |
| Ad Page 34 changed Allighieri to Alighieri |
| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+