Monte Carlo--In the Concert-room--The Gambling-saloons--The Tables--The
moth and the candle--The true story of Monte Carlo--An International
grievance and disgrace.
We reached Monte Carlo in time for the grand concert at two o'clock.
Passing through the delightful gardens surrounded by _cafés_, we entered
the dazzling and gorgeous concert-room. There was nothing to pay.
Plush-liveried servants handed us to our seats, and we enjoyed their
soft luxuriance, admired the handsome and profuse decorations, and
scanned the mixed society around us, listening meanwhile to some of the
finest classical music.
After spending a pleasant hour, we retired to make room for others.
There was a silent expression on the countenances of the attendant
croupiers, and also on many of the faces of the habitués of the place,
which showed that, although this refined and intellectual enjoyment was
the ostensible reason of their presence, the real and more appreciated
object was the gaming-table.
Impelled by earnest desire to judge for ourselves as to the evils of
Monte Carlo, we followed the stream of people through the gilded and
handsome suite of ante-rooms, to the gambling-saloons. The obsequious
lacqueys opened the doors to all who wished to pass, and no questions
were asked, though I believe you are supposed to have your private
visiting card in readiness.
"'Will you walk into my parlour?' said the spider to the fly."
There was no doubt on that day, at least, of the flies swarming in.
Frith's celebrated picture occurred instantly to my mind, and I saw at a
glance how faithful it was to the sad reality.
You cannot fail to be struck by the extreme quiet amongst so many
people. Every one speaks in whispers. There is a certain solemnity about
it, the same as that felt in a church; and truly this might be termed
the house of the devil. The large and spacious rooms, with beautifully
painted walls, Moorish ceilings, and polished floors, are without
furniture save the long tables and chairs for those intending to play
steadily. Here sit the yellow-faced, sleepless, hard-eyed croupiers,
spinning the fatal ball, and mechanically sweeping in with their rakes
the piles of money staked and lost by the infatuated players. These are
not limited to those seated at the table and who form but the front row.
What a mixture they are! Cadaverous, selfish old women; others,
handsome, gay, and reckless, evidently in the interest of the table, and
hired to act as decoys; others, again, young and inexperienced; and even
_ladies_, pale, unhappy-looking,--were all represented. The men for the
most part hardened and merciless, and many careless young gentlemen,
some of them innocent-looking lads enough, but others, alas! showing
painfully their habits of dissipation, in spite of their youth,--all
waiting eagerly to clutch their winnings or silently lose their money.
Further up the room are other tables, at which higher stakes are played.
_Trente et quarante_ is perhaps a little more favourable to players than
roulette, though it depends very much on the shuffling of the cards.
Piles of gold and notes were laid upon the table, either for or against
the numbers backed turning up. But here was the same sickening
sight--mad, selfish infatuation; and we turned away, having had quite
enough of the "shady side" of the lovely but too fascinating Monte
Carlo, being glad to get out into the bright sunshine once more. In the
rooms we had left, the blinds and curtains were closely drawn, excluding
the pure light of heaven, as if those so earnestly engaged within
preferred darkness to light because their deeds were evil.
A great number of people from the "tables" followed to catch the train,
and we had the sad reflection that a fresh batch would soon arrive in
time for the _evening_ concert. _Residents_ of Monaco and Monte Carlo
are not supposed to be admitted, as it is not desirable that the
half-frenzied losers should remain in these peaceful elysiums; a fresh
and continuous stream of victims is much preferred.
But these Shylock millionaires, the owners of the tables--these Princes
of Hades who alone profit by the wreck of their fellow-creatures, are
perfectly content to fatten, like over-gorged leeches, on the weaknesses
and follies of their prey. What matters it to them, the misery and
unhappiness of others, so long as they thrive? What matter the means, so
long as their end is obtained?
I am sorry to say that ladies are the greatest victims. They are more
easily tempted by their love of excitement and adventure, and once they
touch the fatal dice it is almost impossible to hold them in. Many
ladies who come to Nice and Mentone as invalids, go to Monte Carlo, not
only for the enchanting scenery, but for the fine concerts, which are
free to all comers. Indeed, most invalids long for such a means of
recreation, and it is a great pity they cannot obtain it elsewhere when
visiting the Riviera. Then their curiosity is aroused about the
gaming-tables, purposely encouraged by lying reports of people having
made their fortunes by a single throw of the dice. After the concert,
how natural to stroll into the gay saloons, the liveried servants so
politely opening the doors to them! And all this is the most cruel part
of the gambling fraternity--Messieurs Blanc and Co., who so heartlessly
lay out these alluring baits. Perchance these ladies are accompanied by
pure-minded daughters, all unthinking of the frightful contamination of
the numbers of so-called "ladies of fashion"--habitués and hirelings,
decoys simply in the pay of the gambling propriétaire. It is impossible
to know the moral injury it will do these innocent young girls. Then,
there is the husband who takes his wife, and permits her or himself to
chance a napoleon. It is impossible to touch pitch without defilement,
or to know where that one thoughtless yielding to temptation may lead.
Yes! it is too often just one napoleon and no more. Unfortunately they
win, and then of course they come again and again, with the sad result
of eventually losing all that is worth living for.
Some of these invalid ladies actually starve themselves, when they ought
to be nourishing and strengthening their poor bodies; acting meanly at
their hotels in order to save sufficient money to go to Monte Carlo, and
in the end it is all lost! Then they return to their homes with mind,
health, and nerves completely shattered, to the grief and astonishment
of kind friends and family doctors. There is no doubt that when people
are once tempted, it creates in them quite a disease; this is called
"play-fever."
An English gentleman staying at the same hotel with us told me that he
came to the Riviera almost every year, and that he limited himself to
£100 for the gaming pleasures at Monte Carlo, which he could not resist,
and this sum he invariably lost at the end of the season.
But, of course, all those who frequent this place are not "innocents
abroad." That is another evil resulting from this pandemonium. Blacklegs
and adventurers of both sexes swarm here from all parts of Europe,
demoralizing and degrading the lovely shores of the Mediterranean, by
their vulgar and hateful presence. Thousands of invalids and others of
all nations yearly visit the beautiful little towns along the Riviera,
and this fatal trap at Monte Carlo, whereby so many are helplessly
ruined, and so many suicides result, should at least have the moral
voice of the world against it--in fact, an international protest, for it
is a gross scandal and disgrace to the whole of Europe. All who know
anything of this gambling Hades--what is done to keep it alive, its
irresistible fascination over even strong minds, and the number of its
victims, will, I think, acknowledge that it is even worse than slavery.
For the poor negro has to bear physical degradation only, whilst here it
is both moral and physical; body and soul-suffering to the victim and
his friends. Why, then, should this place have been allowed to exist so
long?
First of all, France secretly encourages and indirectly profits by it.
Were she earnest in her endeavours to suppress this infernal machinery
at Monte Carlo, it would soon be stopped, and she would have the thanks
of the civilized world for her good efforts. Italy is not entirely
without blame: the late Pope Pius IX. more than winked at it. Russia is
also accessory to it; the propensity to gamble seems natural to her
people; and the corrupt journalists on the continent gloss over and help
to support it.
The story of Monte Carlo is perhaps not sufficiently well known. In
consequence of his subjects revolting from his tyrannical rule, the
Prince of Monaco lost part of his territory. France having annexed Nice
and Savoy after the Italian campaign of 1859, the prince's fortunes were
at a very low ebb indeed. But under the protection of Napoleon III., who
put him up to a good thing in ground speculation at Paris, when Baron
Hausmann was going ahead with his great building furore, the prince's
coffers were not long empty. Then, the gambling-houses in Germany having
been suppressed, the notorious Blanc--whose family, I believe, are still
the proprietors of the tables at Monte Carlo--appeared upon the scene,
doubtless accompanied by a few choice friends. The importance of Monaco,
from a gambler's point of view, and the natural beauty of the place,
were not lost sight of by him. The constant stream of visitors to
Cannes, Nice, Mentone, and San Remo, must pass through Monte Carlo and
pay there a terrible toll. An immense sum was lavished in making the
place the delightful paradise it has become, less, of course, its
Satanic evils. Beautiful gardens, _cafés_, concert and gaming-saloons,
constructed with all the fascinating skill and taste that money and art
could accomplish, were added to its natural attractions. The best of
music and artistes procured, journalists bribed to advertize its
advantages as a "health resort," men and women of fashion drawn hither,
and then all was ready for the dupes.
Nice became an adjunct. The proprietors of the Monte Carlo Tables
support the gaieties there, giving prizes at the races, and other
inducements, to render it more attractive to visitors, the majority of
whom would invariably find their way to Monte Carlo. Besides, it were
better that their unfortunate and maddened victims should blow out their
brains at Nice and other places, rather than give Monte Carlo a _bad
name_! Though, frequently, they evade the gens d'armes, and at dawn of
day are found in the beautiful gardens lifeless. The glorious sun rises
over the dreadful scene, lighting up the lovely coast, and makes it a
paradise, in spite of man's wickedness and merciless cruelty. At Monaco
itself, there are thousands of pounds given away annually as the
_casino_ prizes, for the _tame_ pigeon-slaughtering matches, which
generally bring a great gathering. But the wonder is, that gentlemen
will soil their hands with the stakes, tempting, as undoubtedly they
are; and the marvel is that some of our leading newspapers, who
righteously declaim against the iniquities of Monte Carlo, still
condescend to advertize these _decoy_ matches.
And thus the "owner of the tables" became exceedingly wealthy, and
married his daughters to foreign princes--one to Prince Roland
Bonaparte, and the other to Prince Radziwill. The Prince of Monaco
shares the profits, amounting in the gross to some fourteen millions of
francs annually. The people of his wretched principality are relieved of
all taxes, even for gas and water--which secures their gratitude and
silence: the profits from the gaming-tables pay for all. I believe it
pays the entire expenses of the municipality, so that the prince has
simply to draw the remainder of his share in this inhuman plunder.
Religion has been drawn in as a veil, as is so often the case with
unscrupulous persons. Churches have been built to quiet and satisfy the
Roman Catholic conscience,[D] after so many shocking deaths had
occurred, or rather to "whitewash" the scandal. The Pope was satisfied
with the liberality of the great gambling Croesus, and gave his
blessing. Indeed, so religious has the place become that on Good Friday
the Passion play is acted in the Cathedral, and without the least sense
of incongruity.
The powerful alliances made with unscrupulous and needy princes of
France and Russia by the family of the Croesus Croupier and Co., have
enormously increased their power. Hence the difficulty in dislodging
them.
But it is an international matter. Monte Carlo is a curse to the people
of every nation who pass through it, and the voice of the civilized
world should be raised to insist on its absolute suppression. The Prince
of Monaco should be given to understand that he must do this, or cease
to exist as a petty independent power. _We_ English, who are so earnest
to prevent even small nuisances in our own land, where it is an
indictable offence for a poor itinerant Italian organ-grinder to refuse
to "move on" when ordered; where the owner of an overloaded dust-bin,
vitiating the atmosphere, is called to account;--_we_, proudly the
foremost in suppressing wrong and upholding the right, should surely not
be backward in striving to uproot this hell upon earth--existing solely
for the inhuman greed of a few selfish individuals; this plague-spot
threatening deadly contagion to soul and body, and causing misery,
madness, and suicide of thousands of our fellow-creatures.[E]
While these pages are passing through the press, the author is greatly
gratified to see the noble exertions Italy is making, both in her
Parliament and through the press, for the suppression of this gambling
principality--recounting the many terrible suicides so frequently
occurring there. But, a still more hopeful sign is the action recently
taken in our own House of Commons as evidenced by the following extract
from the _Morning Post_ of Feb. 12th, 1884:--
"A question is to be put to Lord E. Fitzmaurice to-morrow by Mr.
Anderson (Glasgow) on the subject of the recent tragedies reported from
Monte Carlo. The hon. member will ask whether her Majesty's Government
will make friendly representations to the Governments of France and
Italy, with the view of inducing them to unite for the suppression of
the public gambling tables in that principality; and whether her
Majesty's Government will also make friendly representations to the
Government of France regarding the continuance of public gaming tables
at Aix les Bains?"
Italy, however, would do well to set the example by the abolition of her
State "Lotto Banks;" and we in England would do well to suppress the
little "Monte Carlos" at our West End, and so called Proprietary Clubs
and Stock Exchanges.
[D] The grand Cathedral is still in progress, under the auspices of the
gambling fraternity.
[E] In my former work, "The Cruise of the _Gorgon_," my object was to
expose the iniquity of the East African slave-trade, and our mode of
suppressing it; and it is now my object to draw attention to the
immorality of the Monte Carlo gambling principality, with a view to the
exposure and suppression of its evils, for the benefit of those who, for
health and pleasure, resort to these lovely shores of the Mediterranean.