Wealth was measured in those times by the number of ‘souls’ which a
landed proprietor owned. So many ‘souls’ meant so many male serfs:
women did not count. My father, who owned nearly twelve hundred souls,
in three different provinces, and who had, in addition to his peasants’
holdings, large tracts of land which were cultivated by these peasants,
was accounted a rich man. He lived up to his reputation, which meant
that his house was open to any number of visitors, and that he kept a
very large household.
We were a family of eight, occasionally of ten or twelve; but fifty
servants at Moscow, and half as many more in the country, were
considered not one too many. Four coachmen to attend a dozen horses,
three cooks for the masters and two more for the servants, a dozen
men to wait upon us at dinner-time (one man, plate in hand, standing
behind each person seated at the table), and girls innumerable in the
maid-servants’ room,--how could anyone do with less than this?
Besides, the ambition of every landed proprietor was that everything
required for his household should be made at home by his own men.
‘How nicely your piano is always tuned! I suppose Herr Schimmel must be
your tuner?’ perhaps a visitor would remark.
To be able to answer, ‘I have my own piano-tuner,’ was in those times
the correct thing.
‘What beautiful pastry!’ the guests would exclaim, when a work of
art, composed of ices and pastry, appeared toward the end of the
dinner. ‘Confess, prince, that it comes from Tremblé’ (the fashionable
pastry-cook).
‘It is made by my own confectioner, a pupil of Tremblé, whom I have
allowed to show what he can do,’ was a reply which elicited general
admiration.
To have embroideries, harnesses, furniture--in fact, everything--made
by one’s own men was the ideal of the rich and respected landed
proprietor. As soon as the children of the servants attained the age
of ten, they were sent as apprentices to the fashionable shops, where
they were obliged to spend five or seven years chiefly in sweeping, in
receiving an incredible number of thrashings, and in running about town
on errands of all sort. I must own that few of them became masters of
their respective arts. The tailors and the shoemakers were found only
skilful enough to make clothes or shoes for the servants, and when a
really good pastry was required for a dinner-party it was ordered at
Tremblé’s, while our own confectioner was beating the drum in the music
band.
That band was another of my father’s ambitions, and almost every one
of his male servants, in addition to other accomplishments, was a
bass-viol or a clarinet in the band. Makár, the piano-tuner, _alias_
under-butler, was also a flutist; Andréi, the tailor, played the French
horn; the confectioner was first put to beat the drum, but he misused
his instrument to such a deafening degree that a tremendous trumpet was
bought for him, in the hope that his lungs would not have the power to
make the same noise as his hands; when, however, this last hope had to
be abandoned, he was sent to be a soldier. As to ‘spotted Tíkhon,’ in
addition to his numerous functions in the household as lamp-cleaner,
floor-polisher, and footman, he made himself useful in the band--to-day
as a trombone, to-morrow as a bassoon, and occasionally as second
violin.
The two first violins were the only exceptions to the rule: they were
‘violins,’ and nothing else. My father had bought them, with their
large families, for a handsome sum of money, from his sisters (he never
bought serfs from nor sold them to strangers). In the evenings when he
was not at his club, or when there was a dinner or an evening party
at our house, the band of twelve to fifteen musicians was summoned.
They played very nicely, and were in great demand for dancing-parties
in the neighbourhood; still more when we were in the country. This
was, of course, a constant source of gratification to my father, whose
permission had to be asked to get the assistance of his band.
Nothing, indeed, gave him more pleasure than to be asked for help,
either in the way mentioned or in any other: for instance, to obtain
free education for a boy, or to save somebody from a punishment
inflicted upon him by a law court. Although he was liable to fall into
fits of rage, he was undoubtedly possessed of a natural instinct
toward leniency, and when his patronage was requested he would write
scores of letters in all possible directions, to all sorts of persons
of high standing, in favour of his protégé. At such times, his mail,
which was always heavy, would be swollen by half a dozen special
letters, written in a most original, semi-official, and semi-humorous
style; each of them sealed, of course, with his arms, in a big square
envelope, which rattled like a baby rattle on account of the quantity
of sand it contained--the use of blotting-paper being then unknown.
The more difficult the case, the more energy he would display, until
he secured the favour he asked for his protégé, whom in many cases he
never saw.
My father liked to have plenty of guests in his house. Our dinner-hour
was four, and at seven the family gathered round the _samovár_
(tea-urn) for tea. Everyone belonging to our circle could drop in
at that hour, and from the time my sister Hélène was again with us
there was no lack of visitors, old and young, who took advantage of
the privilege. When the windows facing the street showed bright light
inside that was enough to let people know that the family was at home
and friends would be welcome.
Nearly every night we had visitors. The green tables were opened in
the hall for the card-players, while the ladies and the young people
stayed in the reception-room or around Hélène’s piano. When the ladies
had gone, card-playing continued sometimes till the small hours of
the morning, and considerable sums of money changed hands among the
players. Father invariably lost. But the real danger for him was not
at home: it was at the English Club, where the stakes were much higher
than in private houses, and especially when he was induced to join
a party of ‘very respectable’ gentlemen, in one of the aristocratic
houses of the Old Equerries’ Quarter, where gambling went on all night.
On an occasion of this kind his losses were sure to be heavy.
Dancing-parties were not infrequent, to say nothing of a couple of
obligatory balls every winter. Father’s way, in such cases, was to
have everything done in a good style, whatever the expense. But at the
same time such niggardliness was practised in our house in daily life
that if I were to recount it, I should be accused of exaggeration. It
is said of a family of pretenders to the throne of France, renowned
for their truly regal hunting-parties, that in their everyday life
even the tallow candles are minutely counted. The same sort of miserly
economy ruled in our house with regard to everything; so much so that
when we, the children of the house, grew up, we detested all saving and
counting. However, in the Old Equerries’ Quarter such a mode of life
only raised my father in public esteem. ‘The old prince,’ it was said,
‘seems to be sharp over money at home; but he knows how a nobleman
ought to live.’
In our quiet and clean lanes that was the kind of life which was most
in respect. One of our neighbours, General D----, kept his house up
in very grand style; and yet the most comical scenes took place every
morning between him and his cook. Breakfast over, the old general,
smoking his pipe, would himself order the dinner.
‘Well, my boy,’ he would say to the cook, who appeared in snow-white
attire, ‘to-day we shall not be many: only a couple of guests. You will
make us a soup, you know, with some spring delicacies--green peas,
French beans, and so on. You have not given us any yet, and madam, you
know, likes a good French spring soup.’
‘Yes, sir.’
‘Then, anything you like as an entrée.’
‘Yes, sir.’
‘Of course, asparagus is not yet in season, but I saw yesterday such
nice bundles of it in the shops.’
‘Yes, sir; eight shillings the bundle.’
‘Quite right! Then, we are sick of your roasted chickens and turkeys;
you ought to get something for a change.’
‘Some venison, sir?’
‘Yes, yes, anything for a change.’
And when the six courses of dinner had been decided on, the old general
would ask, ‘Now how much shall I give you for to-day’s expenses? Six
shillings will do, I suppose?’
‘One pound, sir.’
‘What nonsense, my boy! Here is six shillings; I assure you that’s
quite enough.’
‘Eight shillings for asparagus, five for the vegetables.’
‘Now, look here, my dear boy, be reasonable. I’ll go as high as
seven-and-six, and you must be economical.’
And the bargaining would go on thus for half an hour, until the
two would agree upon fourteen shillings and sixpence, with the
understanding that the morrow’s dinner should not cost more than
three shillings. Whereupon the general, quite happy at having made
such a good bargain, would take his sledge, make a round of the
fashionable shops, and return quite radiant, bringing for his wife a
bottle of exquisite perfume, for which he had paid a fancy price in
a French shop, and announcing to his only daughter that a new velvet
mantle--‘something very simple’ and very costly--would be sent for her
to try on that afternoon.
All our relatives, who were numerous on my father’s side, lived exactly
in the same way: and if a new spirit occasionally made its appearance,
it usually took the form of some religious passion. Thus a Prince
Gagárin joined the Jesuit order, again to the scandal of ‘all Moscow,’
another young prince entered a monastery, while several older ladies
became fanatic devotees.
There was a single exception. One of our nearest relatives, Prince--let
me call him Mírski--had spent his youth at St. Petersburg as an officer
of the Guards. He took no interest in keeping his own tailors and
cabinet-makers, for his house was furnished in a grand modern style,
and his wearing apparel was all made in the best St. Petersburg shops.
Gambling was not his propensity--he played cards only when in company
with ladies; but his weak point was his dinner-table, upon which he
spent incredible sums of money.
Lent and Easter were his chief epochs of extravagance. When the Great
Lent came, and it would not have been proper to eat meat, cream, or
butter, he seized the opportunity to invent all sorts of delicacies in
the way of fish. The best shops of the two capitals were ransacked for
that purpose; special emissaries were dispatched from his estate to the
mouth of the Vólga, to bring back on post-horses (there was no railway
at that time) a sturgeon of great size or some extraordinarily cured
fish. And when Easter came, there was no end to his inventions.
Easter, in Russia, is the most venerated and also the gayest of the
yearly festivals. It is the festival of spring. The immense heaps of
snow which have been lying during the winter along the streets rapidly
thaw, and roaring streams run down the streets; not like a thief
who creeps in by insensible degrees, but frankly and openly spring
comes--every day bringing with it a change in the state of the snow and
the progress of the buds on the trees; the night frosts only keep the
thaw within reasonable bounds. The last week of the Great Lent, Passion
Week, was kept in Moscow, in my childhood, with extreme solemnity;
it was a time of general mourning, and crowds of people went to the
churches to listen to the impressive reading of those passages of the
Gospels which relate the sufferings of the Christ. Not only were meat,
eggs, and butter not eaten, but even fish was refused; some of the most
rigorous taking no food at all on Good Friday. The more striking was
the contrast when Easter came.
On Saturday everyone attended the night service which began in a
mournful way. Then, suddenly, at midnight, the resurrection news was
announced. All the churches were at once illuminated, and gay peals of
bells resounded from hundreds of bell towers. General rejoicing began.
All the people kissed one another thrice on the cheeks, repeating the
resurrection words, and the churches, now flooded with light, shone
with the gay toilettes of the ladies. The poorest woman had a new
dress; if she had only one new dress a year, she would get it for that
night.
At the same time, Easter was, and is still, the signal for a real
debauch in eating. Special Easter cream cheeses (_páskha_) and Easter
bread (_koolích_) are prepared; and everyone, no matter how poor he
or she may be, must have a small páskha and a small koolích, with at
least one egg painted red, to be consecrated in the church, and to
be used afterward to break the Lent. With most old Russians, eating
began at night, after a short Easter mass, immediately after the
consecrated food had been brought from church; but in the houses of
the nobility the ceremony was postponed till Sunday morning, when a
table was covered with all sorts of viands, cheeses, and pastry, and
all the servants came to exchange with their masters three kisses and a
red-painted egg. Throughout Easter week a table spread with Easter food
stood in the great hall, and every visitor was invited to partake.
On this occasion Prince Mírski surpassed himself. Whether he was at
St. Petersburg or at Moscow, messengers brought to his house, from his
estate, a specially prepared cream cheese for the páskha, and his cook
managed to make out of it a piece of artistic confectionery. Other
messengers were dispatched to the province of Nóvgorod to get a bear’s
ham, which was cured for the prince’s Easter table. And while the
princess, with her two daughters, visited the most austere monasteries,
in which the night service would last three or four hours in
succession, and spent all Passion Week in the most mournful condition
of mind, eating only a piece of dry bread between the visits she paid
to Russian, Roman, and Protestant preachers, her husband made every
morning the tour of the well-known Milútin shops at St. Petersburg,
where all possible delicacies are brought from the ends of the earth.
There he used to select the most extravagant dainties for his Easter
table. Hundreds of visitors came to his house, and were asked ‘just to
taste’ this or that extraordinary thing.
The end of it was that the prince managed literally to eat up a
considerable fortune. His richly furnished house and beautiful estate
were sold, and when he and his wife were old they had nothing left, not
even a home, and were compelled to live with their children.
No wonder that when the emancipation of the serfs came, nearly all
these families of the Old Equerries’ Quarter were ruined. But I must
not anticipate events.