of which is Louisville. This place is situated just above the rapids of
the Ohio and near Bear Grass Creek. Its scite is commanding and
pleasant, its aspect spacious, and it contains many large and elegant
buildings. At this place resides the intrepid Colonel Croghan.[158]
Opposite to Louisville the river Ohio is more than a mile in width. Much
ship building is carried on here; and at this place boats and vessels,
going down the river, stop for a pilot. Ships of four hundred tons have
{175} passed down the rapids. The river is, generally, in its highest
state between February and April.
Opposite to this place, on the other side of the Ohio, is the town of
Jeffersonville; and two miles below, on the Kentucky side, is a small
place called Shippingport.[159] At this place boats, bound down the
river, generally land for the purpose of leaving the pilot, and of
obtaining information as to the markets below. Near the rapids is
situated Fort Steuben.[160]
The road from Louisville to Shippingport lies on the bank of the river,
and on the river side of it are groves of large sycamore trees. Below
the latter place, for fifty miles, the river is truly beautiful. In the
vicinity of Louisville are some noble plantations. Some of the planters
here sow five hundred acres with wheat, set twenty ploughs a-going in
one field, keep sixty horses, several hundred negroes, and carry on
distilling, coopering, and other trades.
A few miles below Cincinnati, on the Kentucky side of the river, is
situated the plantation of the late General Pike.[161] It was
interesting to see the residence of this great man. He was a true
patriot; and possessed all the hardihood and intrepidity of Charles the
twelfth. After serving his country for many years, and acquiring her
confidence and love, he nobly died under her triumphant banners. Among a
free and virtuous people, the fate of one brave man kindles the latent
spark of patriotism in ten thousand hearts, and in his example, they
find inspiring lessons of courage and devotion.
Limestone is situated on Limestone Creek in Kentucky.[162] This is a
pretty considerable place, but the river has so far encroached upon the
bank upon which it is situated, that it, probably, will fall in the
course of a few years. Indeed I believe, that this will ultimately be
the fate of many places on the immediate banks of the Ohio. Even
Marietta, and {176} Cincinnati, are, probably candidates for speedy
ruin. I should not be surprised to hear that the very next freshet had
produced such an effect. With respect to all these places, the abrasion
of the banks is constant, and hundreds of buildings are situated near
their verge. The owners of these buildings have already incurred much
expense, in endeavouring to secure the banks where their individual
property stands; but there is no union in these efforts, and the means
employed are totally inefficient. Most of the towns on the Ohio are
every year partially inundated, in consequence of the astonishing rise
of the river. The banks are frequently overflown to the depth of twenty
feet.
Opposite to Cincinnati is Licking River. This river is navigable about
one hundred and twenty miles. On its west bank, near its junction with
the Ohio, is the town of Coventry; and on the other side is Newport.
They are both considerable places, and present an elegant appearance.
In travelling through the woods, a few miles from this river, I met with
several species of birds which I had never before seen. Nature’s
fondness for variety is conspicuously displayed in all her works; and I
am surprised that naturalists have not noticed this circumstance, so as
to furnish, at least a plausible argument, in the disquisitions of
philosophy concerning the human race.
At the junction of the Ohio and Cumberland rivers is the little town of
Smithland.[163] A more miserable looking place exists no where. It
contains a few wretched buildings, some of which are occupied for the
accommodation of boatmen. Here the slaves are more numerous than the
whites, and many of the former appear far better in point of morals and
intelligence.
Before I leave Kentucky, I may touch upon a {177} topic, which
distinguishes her, and many of the Southern and Western States, from
those of New-England. The practice which prevails in the former of
individuals publicly tendering their services to the people, pending
elections for representatives, may, in the abstract, be productive of
some evils; but relative to the systems of intrigue, which exist, in a
greater or less degree, in every state in the Union, it is a practice
which policy dictates, and patriotism sanctions. A large concourse of
people, listening to the animated oratory of rival candidates, may
experience some excitement; but is not this a less evil than those which
arise from the dark and silent operations of abandoned men, who have
combined for their own exclusive advancement, and for the purpose of
keeping out of sight those, whose virtues and talents, by coming into
contact with theirs, would render their darkness visible?
The safety of our government, rests upon the existence of good
principles; and the preservation of these principles depends in no small
degree upon their being patronized, and rewarded. Under such a
government as ours, every political proceeding should be fair and open.
No intrigue should be countenanced. The people should be able to see
every cause and effect of the political machinery. Virtue, talents, and
patriotism, should be encouraged; and vice, ignorance, and selfishness,
discountenanced. The latter should never be suffered to obtain the
patronage of the people through private intrigue, and the agency of
petty coalitions. But this will always be the case, where political
management may be cloaked under the bustle of party spirit and
mock-patriotism.
No wise man will, unless prompted by a sense of duty, arising from the
perils of the times, ever wish {178} for the toils, and the
responsibilities of office; or ever expose himself to the caprice of the
multitude. But there may be seasons when, _owing to the corrupt
practices incident to party spirit_, the jargon of ignorance, and the
pretended patriotism of villainy, shall have usurped the management of
public concerns, and have cypherised the community, it would be the
indispensable obligation of the true patriot to tender his services to
his country, to discountenance existing systems of political traffic,
and thereby to restore to the people their consequence, their security,
and their reputation.
After being sometime in Kentucky, I crossed the Ohio and entered
Indiana.
This state lies on the river Ohio, from the Great Miami to the Wabash.
On the east is the state of Ohio, on the west Illinois; and on the
north-west Michigan. The form of Indiana is that of an oblong. The
sinuosities of the Ohio, however, render its boundary here very uneven.
The length of the state is about 270 miles, and its breadth 130.
The soil, climate, face of the country, and productions of this state
resemble those of Ohio. Salt springs, coal pits, lime, free stone, and
valuable clays of various kinds abound in Indiana; and on the Wabash, it
is said there is a silver mine.
The salt springs of the west generally produce a bushel of salt from
about one hundred gallons of the water. This water is frequently
obtained by boring, from sixty to two hundred feet, through solid rock.
There is, in the west, springs of salt petre; and in Indiana there are
very valuable salt springs, which belong to the United States, and which
are profitably managed by the government.[164]
The Prairie in Indiana, called Pilkawa, is a high level ground, seven
miles long and three broad. Its {179} soil is very rich, and upon it
there was never known to be a tree.
Vincennes, the capital of Indiana, lies on the Wabash.[165] Here the
commerce of the state principally centres. Goods from Canada pass into
this state down the Illinois river. From New-Orleans they proceed up the
Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash; and from the eastern and southern states
by the way of the Ohio and last mentioned river.
In this state, on the river Ohio, is the celebrated Swiss
settlement.[166] The situation does not present a very favorable
appearance, and I apprehend that much success is not experienced in the
making of wine there. It appears to me that a more favorable tract for
this business might be found in Kentucky. The soil of this state is
lighter and warmer than that of Indiana.
Near the Swiss settlement I met with many trees and bushes quite new to
me. The thorn bush here produces thorns, which would answer the purpose
of nails. They are three inches long, and so sharp and hard that they
can be pressed, with the hand, through an inch board. The buck eye, of
which I have spoken, is, probably, the horse chesnut of Europe. The
magnolia bears blossoms very beautiful and fragrant. The coffee tree
resembles the black oak, and bears a pod enclosing a seed, of which a
drink is made, not unlike coffee. The papaw resembles the locust, or
custard apple tree, and bears a pod, containing several very rich
kernels, of the size and colour of a tamarind.[167]
The principal river in Indiana is the Wabash. The banks of this river
are high and fertile, and its aspect very beautiful. It is navigable, at
certain seasons of the year, upwards of six hundred miles. White,
Theakiki and Calumet rivers are its greatest tributaries.[168]
{180} Just above Vincennes is Fort Knox, and a little above the latter
are situated the Watenaus.[169] The Pootewatomies are settled not far
from the southerly end of Lake Michigan. It may here be observed, that
the Indians of North America, especially those who reside within the
boundaries of the United States, are continually changing their place of
residence; that they divide their tribes into many small societies, and
each of these occupy one village. These societies, although of the same
tribe, frequently acquire a new name. Hence arise, in part, the almost
innumerable number of names, which suggest the idea of new tribes.
Different names too, are sometimes given to the same tribe or society.
But the tribes of the north and west are still very numerous. It has
been supposed that our government is too desirous of obtaining Indian
lands upon fair purchase. As to this particular I can only say, that
many tracts which are sold, are not worth a cent to their occupants, in
as much as they have ceased to be good hunting grounds, and the owners
are about to abandon them.
The river Tippecanoe is a branch of the Wabash. It is well known that in
1811 a bloody battle was fought on the former, between the Americans and
Indians.[170] The history of this engagement is very interesting. It is
worth one’s while to recur to it. Our troops, headed by the intrepid
Harrison, penetrated through a dreary wilderness for the purpose of
destroying the Town of the Prophet, who, together with Tecumseh, a
brother of his, had been endeavouring to excite, in several tribes of
Indians, hostile feelings towards the United States. The troops of
Harrison were, during their march, surrounded and menaced by many
hostile tribes. After arriving at their place of destination, they
encamped for the night. Just before daylight the {181} next morning, a
furious and determined onset was made by the Indians, and a bloody
contest ensued. Before our troops could form, there were engagements,
man to man, in the tents. The tawny Indian and the hale soldier grappled
for mastery. The march of the Americans had been very laborious and
fatiguing; and both by day and by night the strictest watch, and the
utmost readiness for action had been maintained. But flesh and blood
must have repose. The soldier slept upon his arms. He saw the approach
of the savage, but awaking, found it was a dream. He slept, and dreamed
again;—he awoke no more:—some of our troops were found dead, and even
scalped in their tents. This was a night full of horror. It was dark and
rainy, and the air was rended by savage yells.
The vigilant Harrison was up, and giving orders, just as the attack
commenced. Our officers and men quickly stepped to their posts. In their
way they met the savage foe, and contended with him in darkness. The
General ordered all his fires to be immediately extinguished; his troops
were soon formed, and the contest was, for some time, maintained with
unabated fury. The result is well known.
Those of our countrymen, who fell in this engagement, deserve our
grateful remembrance; and those who survived it should be rewarded.
After the battle the wounded suffered exceedingly. Carried in waggons
over so rough a way, their ligatures were loosened, and death daily
lightened the load. In this contest the renowned 4th regiment breasted,
with an immoveable aspect, the fury of the savages; and thereby saved
from destruction the rest of the troops. Many of the militia, thus
supported, behaved well; but some of them fled, like whipp’d curs, under
the baggage waggons.
{182} Colonel Davies,[171] who fell upon this sanguinary field,
possessed a high military genius. His enthusiasm was lofty; and had he
survived this bloody conflict, the last war would, probably, have felt
his giant energies. Other great souls fell on this trying night; but my
humble records cannot do them justice.
Near the head waters of the Wabash some of the Kickapoos are settled;
and here too the Shawanese have some of their hunting grounds.[172] This
last idea suggests the subject of Zoology. There is no topic in nature
more interesting than this. The great variety of species which this
genius presents, and the dispositions peculiar to each, render this
subject an inexhaustible source of instruction and entertainment. From
the animal world, man may derive important lessons in relation to
industry, economy and perseverance. Indeed, here are displayed all the
passions and affections incident to human nature;—all that is exalted,
and all that is mean:—the generous courage of the lion, the selfish
cunning of the fox, the ferocity of the bull dog, and the fawning of the
spaniel. Here is a fund of simile illustrative of dispositions, manners,
and morals, which are exceedingly forcible.
The relations of this subject are too numerous for incidental remark.
Unless the whole of it is embraced, one hardly knows where to begin, or
where to leave off. That part of natural philosophy, which relates to
the animal and vegetable worlds, have an intimate connexion with moral
nature. The whole creation presents to the human mind the most engaging
subjects of contemplation;—subjects which speak to his heart, and
eloquently persuade him to love and adore his Heavenly Father. The
Scriptures derive from this source moral and religious illustrations,
which are truly impressive: In the 80th {183} Psalm the Deity speaks of
his chosen people under the similitude of a vine brought out of Egypt;
and on account of transgression, “the boar out of the wood doth waste
it, and the wild beast of the field doth devour it.” David, in
representing the happiness, security, and comfort of a christian spirit,
exclaims, “the sparrow hath found an house, and the swallow a nest for
herself;—even thine altars, O Lord of hosts!” And in speaking of the
universal care of Providence, he says, “He giveth to the beast his food,
and to the young ravens which cry.” Jeremiah too, in censuring the Jews
for their insensibility and impenitence, declares, “yea, the stork in
the heaven knoweth her appointed times; and the turtle, and the crane,
and the swallow, observe the time of _their_ coming: but my people know
not the judgment of the Lord.” Lastly, how _supremely_ interesting, in
view of the innocence of the lamb, is the exclamation, “Behold the Lamb
of God which taketh away the sins of the world!” The Author of the
Scriptures is, indeed, the great God of nature; and in his Word, he has
employed that wonderful pencil, with which he has garnished the heavens.
The opossum of Indiana is said to possess peculiar qualities. This
animal has ever excited the attention of naturalists, by its
extraordinary means of cherishing and securing its young. Under the
belly of the opossum is a bag, composed of a thick skin completely lined
with soft fur, and this skin fully covers the animal’s teats. Into this
bag the young of the opossum lie; and, in a time of danger, the parent
closes this bag, the young hang upon her teats, and in this situation
she endeavours to escape from her pursuers.
It is well known that the opossum, at its birth, is remarkably small;
but the account which I received {184} from an intelligent farmer of
Indiana, in relation to this particular, is almost incredible. This
account, however, seems to be supported, analogically, by the testimony
of naturalists. The young of the marmose, a species of opossum, is, when
first born, not larger than a bean. This animal has two longitudinal
folds of skin, near the thighs, in which her young are comfortably kept
until they acquire strength enough to take care of themselves.
The Indiana planter says, that the young of the real opossum has been
found, in the bag described, not larger than a grain of barley. We may
here inquire, in what way the opossum is propagated? The above account
of the young of the opossum is not absolutely incredible. Nature’s modes
of production are astonishingly various. Aristotle says, that she abhors
a vacuum; and certain it is, that she dislikes similarity. Some of her
animated existences she produces through the instrumentality of one sex,
some of two, some of three, and some without any sex. The snail is an
hermaphrodite; and some shell-animals in the East-Indies require, in
order to their production, the union of three individuals. The polypus
is very prolific, and yet is destitute of sexual distinction. Upon its
body appear protuberances, similar to buds upon trees, and these are the
real animal in miniature. Whilst in this state, they are nourished,
apparently, as buds are nourished by sap, and when they are capable of
taking care of themselves, they fall off like ripe fruit.
Two other peculiarities of the opossum are its dread of water, and
indifference to fire. It is said that this animal, upon being slightly
stricken, pretends to be dead; and continues to appear so even when its
paws are burning off; but when put into water it immediately becomes
alarmed, and struggles to save itself. Naturalists say, that this animal
subsists, principally, upon birds.
{185} Leaving the state of Indiana, I passed into the Illinois
Territory. This territory is generally level, but I think it more
diversified than Indiana. The Illinois Territory is of immense extent.
It is bounded on the east, by Lake Michigan and Indiana; on the south,
by the Ohio river; on the south-west and west, by the Mississippi; on
the north by Lake Superior; on the north-west by the Lake of the Woods;
and west-south-west, by the most northern source of the Mississippi. It
constitutes the whole of the North-West Territory, excepting Ohio,
Michigan, and Indiana, and contains about 200,000 square miles,
exclusive of the waters of Lake Superior and Michigan.
The meadows on the river Illinois are very extensive. The aspect of the
river is expansive and gentle; and at its confluence with the
Mississippi, it is about four hundred yards wide. The other principal
rivers in this territory, are the Ouisconsin, and Fox rivers. The former
runs very near Fox river, which enters Lake Winnebago. This Lake is the
nearest average point of communication between the waters of the St.
Lawrence, and the Gulf of Mexico. On the Illinois river, there is pit
coal, salt springs, and in other parts of the territory, lead and copper
mines. Between the rivers Kaskaskias, and Illinois, there is an
extensive tract of rich land, which terminates in a high ridge. In this
fertile vale are a number of small French villages.[173]
There is a communication, between the Illinois river and Lake Michigan,
by the way of Chicago river, and two small portages.[174] The Illinois
strikes the Mississippi about twenty miles above the Missouri, and its
principal branch runs in the direction of Detroit.[175]
The principal towns in the Illinois Territory are Kaskaskia, Cohokia,
and Goshen.[176] Shawne town {186} lies on the Ohio, and is an
inconsiderable place.[177] Here are several taverns, a bake-house, and a
few huts. Some of the settlements in Illinois are ancient, and very
considerable.
Formerly there were about twenty tribes of Indians inhabiting the
Illinois Territory; and a large proportion of the lands here still
belong to them. The Winnebagoes still reside on Fox river; the Saukies
on the upper part of the Ouisconsin; and the Ottiganmies near its
mouth.[178]
Fort Massac is situated in Illinois, near the mouth of the Ohio.[179]
Its site is elevated; but the adjacent country is frequently overflown.
The Illinois Territory possesses a fine climate, a variety of rich
soils, and many peculiarities, which are calculated to render her, at
some future period, a very distinguished state.
About ten miles beyond Cumberland river, on the Ohio, is the river
Tennessee. This river finds its most remote sources in Virginia, passes
through the state of Tennessee from east to west, and in its course
enters the State of Mississippi. This is the largest source of the Ohio.
It pursues its course about one thousand miles before it enters the
Ohio, and at its junction with it, its width is about six hundred yards.
It is navigable, for the largest vessels, to the Muscle Shoals, a
distance of two hundred and fifty miles. These shoals are about twenty
miles in length; but the navigation here may be easily improved.[180]
At no far distant period, a considerable part of the produce of the
Ohio, and its tributaries, will, probably, find a market in
West-Florida, instead of New-Orleans. This will be more particularly the
case, should Pensacola become the property of the United States; and of
this event there can be no doubt. It will soon become ours by purchase,
or by {187} conquest. For an honest purpose Spain, or her secret ally,
will not wish to own it; she will, therefore, forfeit it by
transgression, or when it shall become useless to her in this respect,
she will sell it. There can be no doubt, that, ere long, East-Florida,
and that part of West-Florida which belongs to Spain, will become
ours.[181]
Pensacola, Mobile, and other places on the coast of West-Florida will
soon become places of immense trade. The great cause of the business and
wealth of New-Orleans, is the union, which there takes place, between a
vast inland and foreign commerce. Such a union at Pensacola, or Mobile
would be much more advantageous. The planters on the Ohio and its
waters, could carry their produce to these markets at much less expense;
and the shipper could here freight vessels for its exportation at a
lower rate.
Boats on the Ohio, instead of passing into the Mississippi, may ascend
the Tennessee as far as the Muscle Shoals, or within fifty miles of
them, and then entering the Tombecbee by a canal, which may easily be
made, pass down to Mobile. The current of the Tennessee to the Muscle
Shoals is gentle, and boats may be pushed up the stream without much
expense. Coosee river, a branch of the Alabama, also approaches very
near to the Tennessee; and from the Alabama to the river Perdido, near
Pensacola, the distance is very small.
If these ideas are correct, the trade of New-Orleans, both foreign and
domestic, will not increase so rapidly as might otherwise be expected.
It is well known, that the expense attending the navigation of vessels
up the Mississippi to New-Orleans, and in passing from thence to the
mouth of the river, is frequently great. Vessels are sometimes from
thirty to sixty days in ascending this river to the city; and in
descending it the detention, both on the {188} river and at the
pilot-ground, near its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, is often
considerable. Besides, the danger attending this navigation is far from
being small.