furnished me with as much of this meat as I could carry, and after
ascertaining that it was twenty-five miles to the next house, I took an
affectionate farewell of this friendly man and family, and with my
renewed strength, and supply of provisions, hastily travelled on until
about twelve o’clock, hardly remembering I was weak; but becoming
somewhat faint for want of food, I sat down, took some refreshment, and
then travelled on again, till I arrived at an Indian village, where I
found two squaws, all the rest having left; for what purpose I know not;
probably for a frolic. I here obtained a pint of sour milk, which proved
an excellent {39} cordial to me at this time. I inquired for a place of
entertainment, and found, by their holding up four fingers, that it was
four miles. This I quickly travelled, and found a neat Indian hut, where
I found the privilege of staying by myself, without interruption from
the family, who resided in an adjoining one. Salt provision and bread
was what I now wanted, but neither of them could be procured; if I
except some corn pounded up, mixed with water, and baked on a stone by
the fire. In travelling on several days, I came to the line between the
Choctaw and Chickasaw nations,[22] where I saw a large hewn log house
and went in. The room was neat, and, as is usual, contained no
furniture, except a table, nor any person, except a squaw and a few
children. I walked into another apartment, and after staying some time,
two white men came in and sat down, but appeared to have no wish for
conversation with me. I endeavored to make some inquiries of them, but
found they declined any answer. A dish of victuals was brought in and
set on the table, which apparently consisted of minced meat and
vegetables. I was very hungry, and the sight of this food was
delightful. They sat down; I asked permission to partake with them; the
answer was no. I stated my hungry situation, and observed that no
reasonable compensation should be wanted; the answer was again no. I
then got up and walked away, wondering within myself what could be the
cause of these unfeeling creatures being here; probably for no good. I
faintly travelled on until about three o’clock in the afternoon, when I
came to an Indian hut, went round to the back part, there being no door
in front, saw two Indians sitting on a platform of hewn logs, and
endeavored to make some inquiries, but could not be understood. Thinking
of the contents of my knapsack, which contained a little jerk and fat
pork, without bread or salt, my stomach too weak to receive these, and I
knew of nothing else I could obtain. At this moment a boy came out of a
small hut a few paces distant, bringing a large wooden bowl full of
boiled corn, and setting it down, they three placed themselves around
it. I, knowing the Indian custom to distribute a part of what they had
to strangers, ventured up and formed one of the circle. A large horn
{40} spoon, perhaps three times the size of a common table spoon, was
placed on the corn, which the oldest Indian filled and put into his
mouth; the second one did the same, then I followed, and so it went
round. When we had continued so a few minutes, a tall well dressed
Indian came out of the door, looked upon us all, but viewed me very
attentively; he then went back and closed the door, but immediately
returned bringing with him a cake made of pounded corn and baked, about
the size of a large cracker, but much thicker; this he put into my hand,
and then stepped back with his eyes fixed on me. I divided it into four
parts, and gave each of my messmates a part. He smiled and went again
into the house, and left us to finish our repast. Never had I more
reason for gratitude than at this time, and I think I did feel thankful
that their hearts were open to my necessities. After we had done eating,
one of the Indians took the bowl and carried it back, the others
followed, leaving me alone. From the appearance of these Indians, I
supposed they might be servants or laborers for the Indian who brought
me the cake, who I soon found was a chief; for when they were gone, this
chief came out again to me, dressed in great style, with silver bands
around his arms, a large silver plate on his breast, moccassins and
leggings elegantly worked in Indian fashion, a handsome hat filled with
plumes, with rows of beads around it, and other ornaments; a horse was
led up to a stake, a genteel saddle and bridle was put on him, and in
every respect the horse appeared fit for any gentleman to ride upon. The
chief looked on himself, then on the horse, then on me; and I, wishing
to gratify him, expressed my surprise and gratification as well as I
could both in my looks and actions. This pleased him well; he soon spoke
a few words of English, and handed me a bundle of papers. On examining
them, I found them to be bills of goods to a considerable amount
purchased at New-Orleans. On looking over these bills, I found they
contained a number of articles which he then had on; pointing to the
charges and then to the articles, I expressed great surprise at the
riches which he wore. All this exalted me much in his esteem, and we
continued thus a considerable time. He then led me into the room where
{41} his wife and children were, gave me a glass of good old whiskey,
conducted me into another neat apartment, spread a handsome grass carpet
on the floor, and, by signs, bid me welcome to stay all night. In the
same manner, by signs, he informed me that he was going off, and bowing,
left the room. I saw him no more; probably he was going to attend an
Indian council. Being refreshed with food, and it drawing towards night,
I laid down on the carpet, covered myself with my blanket, and quietly
reposed until two o’clock in the morning, when I awoke, carefully got
up, shouldered my pack and left this hospitable mansion. Being finely
refreshed and feeling new vigor, I travelled on easily till the sun was
up a short distance; when coming to a house, found a white woman and her
daughter. I called for breakfast, and was well supplied with bread,
meat, tea, &c., and some to carry with me on my journey. From the
hospitable treatment I had received at the two last houses, I began to
think that the worst of my journey was over, and at eight o’clock I
proceeded on about two miles, when I met three squaws with large packs,
who appeared to be in great haste, and took no notice of me; which gave
me reason to suspect some trouble ahead. One or two miles further on
heard a whooping and yelling, and presently saw an Indian running to
meet me. He walked very fast, bare foot and barelegged, without any
clothes but his shirt, and that very bloody, looking as though he had
been engaged in some severe conflict. When he came up he seized me by
the shoulder and held me fast, and kept his continual whooping and
yelling, which almost stunned me. He was very drunk, and kept reeling
backward and forward, which occasioned me to do the same, as his nervous
arm made such a grip on my shoulder it was impossible for me to
extricate myself. Sometimes he would bear me to the ground, and most of
his weight would be upon me. Trying to give signs that I was sick, he
laughed; I then called him bobashela, which is their word for brother;
this pleased him, and having a bottle of whiskey in his other hand, he
put it to my mouth saying good. I opened my mouth, and he thrust the
neck of the bottle seemingly down my throat, the whiskey ran out, and
strangled me badly, and {42} when I sat to coughing and choking, he
burst out into a loud laugh and let go of my shoulders. He was a stout,
tall man, had a long knife by his side, and put his hand several times
on it, but exhibited no appearance of injuring me; yet, from his drunken
situation, I thought I had considerable to fear. I repeated the word
brother several times, when he looked sharp at me a few moments, and
uttering a loud scream, left me to pursue my way, happy that the word
_bobashela_ had been my protection. About half an hour after this,
coming round a large bend in the road, I saw twenty or thirty Indians,
men, squaws and papooses, all formed in a circle. On coming up with
them, I endeavored to pass, but one caught me by my pack and pulled me
partly into the ring; another pulled, and another, seemingly half a
dozen pulling different ways, talking, laughing, whooping, and
hallooing, and I in the midst, without means of defence or chance of
escape. I endeavored to make signs of sickness, but to no effect; soon a
tall, old Indian stepped up and spoke to them; they all let go of me. I
turned to this Indian and made signs of sickness, by putting my hand on
my breast, &c., which he noticed, and seemingly with pity; he was the
only sober one among them. They now began a second attack upon me; he
spoke again and they left me. He now made a motion for me to go on,
which I did, and having proceeded a few yards, I turned my head partly
round and perceived a young Indian with a glass bottle in his hand just
in the act of striking me on the head. I looked him full in the face; he
lowered his bottle, and sitting partly down, laughed; he then returned
to his comrades. I travelled on as fast as possible till I lost sight of
them, when getting about half a mile, I came to a stream of water which
crossed the road. It was narrow, and the current swift; a tree was
fallen across, on the body of which I passed over. Stopping for a
moment, I heard the yell of an Indian, and the footsteps of a horse in
full speed; fearing it might be some of the gang I had just left, I
stepped into the bushes and secreted myself behind a tree. In this
situation I could see a person who passed without being discovered
myself. Scarcely had I placed myself behind the tree when an Indian rode
up to the stream on full speed with a {43} rifle on his shoulder; coming
to the stream of water, his horse stopped and refused to proceed; he
made several attempts to cross, but the horse refused, wheeling about
and endeavoring to return. The Indian finding that he could not make the
horse cross, sat still, looking up and down in every direction for a
considerable time, when, perceiving no person, and not descrying the
object of his pursuit, he wheeled about and returned. This was the same
young Indian who pursued me with the bottle, and who, had he been
fortunate enough to have discovered me, would immediately have ended my
life with his rifle. After some time, I ventured out from behind the
tree, and in great haste pursued my journey, often looking back, fearing
that this or some other Indian might be in pursuit of me. I passed a
number of cabins without stopping and without refreshment till after
sunset, when I saw a squaw standing at a cabin door. I asked permission
to stay. She made signs by holding up two fingers, that in two miles I
should find a place to stop at. I went on—it soon became dark—I saw a
bright light shining between the logs of a cabin. On going up to the
door I saw a number of squaws sitting round the room silent, as though
something serious had taken place. I made motions for staying all night,
when one, who appeared to be head of the number, shook her head and
pointed to another room, there being two rooms under this roof. I
immediately heard surly noises and clashing of knives, the squaw
appeared very anxious, and shaking her head, made signs for me to be
off. I hesitated for a moment, but soon found that the room was filled
with drunken Indians, which occasioned me to wait for no further
invitation to depart. The squaws all looking earnestly at each other
convinced me of my danger, and I stepped nimbly to the door and
proceeded on. Walking about half a mile, I came to a low swampy piece of
ground, and it being extremely dark, I could not tell what direction to
take; and being much fatigued with travelling, and faint for want of
food, having taken nothing through the day, I sat down on an old stump
in mud almost knee deep, and should have fallen asleep had it not been
for the fear of chilling to death, or being massacred by the Indians,
which I certainly should if they had happened to have come that way.
After ruminating for some time {44} on my perilous situation, I faintly
rose up, travelled on perhaps for a mile, when fortunately I saw another
light, and following it came up to another cabin. I knocked, and an old
Indian opened the door. I stepped in—made signs to stay all night—he
shook his head, pointed to the cabin I had just left, and said, _Indian,
whiskey_, making motions that the Indians that belonged there would soon
be at home, and I should be in danger should they return and find me at
their cabin. This signified nothing to me, as I was totally unable to
proceed any further. I therefore threw down my bundle, and this poor old
Indian expressed great friendship and fear for my safety. He threw down
some deerskins which they used for beds, and I laid down with my bundle
under my head, without removing any of my clothing. I had a wish to keep
awake, but it was impossible, and I soon fell asleep; so much was I
overcome with fatigue and fasting. I awoke in about two hours; found
this old friend sitting up as if to guard me; we looked at each other
wistfully, and in a few minutes I fell asleep again. About two hours
before daylight, the Indian pulling me by the arm, awoke me, when at a
little distance from the cabin I heard Indians whooping, bells rattling,
and horses in considerable numbers coming with the utmost rapidity and
haste. This was a horrid sound at this dead hour of the night, when all
before had been silent. I jumped up as quick as possible, and the old
Indian handing me my bundle, stepped to the door and was just opening
it, when they approached so near I stepped back, and both stood
trembling with fear. Fortunately for us they passed by, nor was it long
from our hearing them on one side before they had passed out of hearing
on the other. On opening the door, it was so extremely dark, I could
perceive no object; I went back and sat down before the fire on a block,
not wishing to sleep any more; while the poor Indian walked back and
forth in the cabin. Within one hour the same noise of whooping, yelling,
horses running, &c., was heard. I caught my bundle, slipped out at the
door, walked hastily about fifty yards, stepped into the bushes and sat
down. In a few moments four or five Indians rode up to the door and
dismounted. When I had seen the last of them go in and close the door, I
ventured on my old track again; not without listening {45} attentively
at the least noise, fearing they might be in pursuit of me. Travelling
on as fast as my trembling limbs would permit, until nearly sunrise, I
saw a large log house on the right hand side of the way, and hoped to
find some friendly aid at this place; but on arriving near the place, I
observed on the left hand side, a number of large trees fallen and
burnt, except the bodies and large limbs; among these were ten or twelve
Indians, some sitting but most of them lying down, being intoxicated.
These wretched creatures had been using their knives upon each other
till their heads and arms were completely mangled, and were covered with
blood from head to foot. This, with the addition of crock from the burnt
trees, caused them to exhibit a scene of horror which I cannot describe.
I passed them without even turning my head, leaving them to suppose I
did not notice them. It now began to rain very hard; I travelled on till
about nine o’clock, when I saw a hut ahead, and coming within about
three hundred yards, three white men came out to meet me. When we met
they appeared very glad to see me, as they had heard of me several times
before. I learned that they were from Natchez, and bound to the state of
Indiana, on the same road I was travelling, and would keep me company
through the remaining part of this wilderness. It is probable these two
men passed me two days before, while I was at my friend’s the Indian
chief.
The landlord here was a white man who had married a squaw, which enabled
him to reside in peace among them. I conversed with him respecting his
happy situation; of the plenty of every comfort of life that appeared
around him, free from the noise and bustle of cities and other populous
places, money constantly coming in, with little or no expenditure, &c.,
&c. He made some reply; the tears started in his eyes, and the discourse
dropped. We tarried here until the next forenoon, in which time I washed
and dried my clothes, procured provisions of our landlord, and made
preparations for our departure. We left this abode of plenty, after a
stay of twenty-four hours, being finely refreshed with the abundance of
everything which is necessary for the support of man. Nothing
extraordinary happened to us on the way; the Indians appeared {46}
friendly, and provisions generally procured with ease, and thus we
passed on till we arrived on the banks of the Tennessee river, at a
house kept by an Indian by the name of Tallbot. This man was said to be
very rich, in land, cattle and negro slaves, and also to have large sums
of money in the bank. He had but one daughter, and I was told that many
white men had attempted to gain this prize. But the old man suspecting
their affections to be placed on the money rather than the daughter,
advised her to remain single a little longer.
It has often been remarked, and I believe truly, of the Chickasaw and
Choctaw Indians,[23] that they are very hospitable to the white people
who traverse their country; and I have never heard of a life being taken
or an insult given, when they were free from ardent spirits; but like
all other Indians, when intoxicated they are savage, cruel and fearless.
But even then, they oftenest take revenge on their own countrymen,
relatives and friends, who happen to offend them. Before they enter on
any business of importance, such as agriculture, or a hunting or fishing
expedition, they despatch several of their men to a considerable
distance, to procure a quantity of ardent spirits. This is brought on
horses, in kegs of their own manufacturing, and carried to such places
as they appoint, where it is deposited until the time appointed for
their meeting arrives. And it is remarkable that although their thirst
for rum is so great, yet this deposite is entirely safe, right in the
sight of every one, and no fears are entertained of its being meddled
with until the time appointed. When this time arrives they assemble and
commence their operations; singing, dancing, drinking, &c. They always
select one or more to keep sober, who sit quietly by themselves,
watching the rest, and who taste not a drop themselves till the frolic
is over, even if it should continue three or four days and nights, as it
sometimes does, but which time it seldom or never exceeds. This being
over, the Indian or Indians who have performed this duty take their
turn, and in the same way take their fill, without interruption.
Crimes committed in a state of intoxication are generally forgiven, not
even excepting murder; but if otherwise committed they are punished with
the greatest severity. {47} Their barbarous customs, however, are fast
wearing away, since our missionaries, schoolmasters, &c., are sent among
them.
They seem to have some sense of religious worship, as at several times,
when passing their cabins, I have seen them sitting or kneeling in
different postures, at which time they will remain fixed in their
position without even turning their heads, let what will come. This
ceremony they perform after losing a near relative, but how long they
continue in this posture I know not. Once or twice I saw four poles
stuck in the ground, with forked ends up, and sticks laid across at
little distances, on which was a large roll of bark. On inquiry I was
told that in this bark was the remains of a deceased person, who, after
remaining there the accustomed time, would be taken down and buried.
They are very affectionate to each other, especially to their children,
whom they treat with great kindness and attention. We arrived at Mr.
Tallbot’s late in the evening, and tarried there till next morning, when
we crossed the river, about one mile, and landed in the state of
Tennessee. This gave us fresh hopes of finishing our journey among
civilized people. We travelled about nine miles, and came to a house
where we changed our clothes and refreshed ourselves. I disposed of my
blanket, cooking utensils, &c., which I had prepared for my journey
through the wilderness, and moved on with a small bundle in my hand,
which enabled me to travel very easily, being freed from my former load.
I kept company with my companions two days, when they were to leave my
road. We bade each other farewell, and I was once more left alone. I
pursued on, and came to a village where was a large three story brick
tavern; they appeared like New-England people. Thinking I should here
find what I had long been wishing for, salt provision, I waited till
dinner was ready, and to my joy I saw a large dish of salt beef and
vegetables placed on the table. In company with a number of gentlemen, I
sat down and feasted my appetite till the last man rose from the table.
Although I had eaten twice or three times the quantity of food I had
been accustomed to, yet I was not satisfied; and at supper I renewed my
hold on the salt {48} beef, to the neglect of pies, cakes, &c. I went to
bed fully satisfied, but awoke about midnight in most distressing pain,
and almost famishing with thirst. I got up, went down stairs in search
of some person, but could find none. I then opened the outside door, and
the rain was pouring down in torrents. I saw an old tub standing under
the eaves, full of water. I ventured out, put my mouth to the tub and
drank several times; I then waited a few minutes, drank again, and went
in. All this did not satisfy my thirst; but as I was very wet, being but
partly dressed, I went to my bed, shivering with cold, and after getting
a little warm, fell asleep. I awoke in about two hours, in much the same
situation as at first, went to the old tub again, and drank with the
same eagerness. I then went back to my bed scarcely able to crawl, and
passed the remainder of the night in a sleepless and distressed
condition. Early in the morning, hearing some of the family up, I went
down, sat by the fire, and seemed to myself but little more than alive.
Breakfast being called, I had no appetite, and waiting till eleven
o’clock I sat out on my way, and pursued on as well as I could till
about sunset, when I had gained eight miles, and came to a planter’s
house, who invited me to stay with him all night, which invitation I
accepted. But nothing could I eat till the next day, and continued
travelling in this situation four or five days, when my appetite began
to return, and I recovered my strength fast, so that in a few days I was
able to travel my usual distance. Passing through a number of fine
villages and towns, the largest of which was Nashville, I arrived at
Lexington,[24] Kentucky, where I found people very friendly, and willing
to assist the weary traveller on all occasions. From thence I pursued on
my course till I arrived at the Ohio river, and crossed over into
Cincinnati, in the afternoon of the forty-seventh day from my leaving
New-Orleans; having performed a journey of one thousand miles only. The
next morning I walked out in the streets, and met one of my first
companions with whom I started from New-Orleans. He lived a few miles
above, on the Kentucky side of the river. He informed me he had been at
home twenty-two days, and told me that the third day after we parted
another man stopped, and the fifth day {49} two more, and before he was
three fourths of the way through his journey, there was only himself and
one other left. Some from being lame, and others sick, and what has
become of them, said he, I know not; you are the only one I have seen or
heard from.
I remained at this place a few days, and then went out about ten miles
to a town called Madison.[25] It being now the month of April, and
fearing my old complaint, the fever and ague, I resolved to quit the
Ohio river, and go out to Detroit in the Michigan territory. A gentleman
from that place was soon expected here for his family, who at this time
resided in this neighborhood. The lady hearing of my determination,
called on me, and wished me to stay there till her husband’s return, and
then accompany them to Detroit. This was a pleasant thing to me as I was
wholly unacquainted with the road through that country. The gentleman
did not return until the first of August, when he arrived with a waggon
and horses, and after suitable preparations were made, he took his wife
and children with some light baggage, and we commenced our journey.
We found the roads very rough for about eighty miles, when we came on to
the prairie grounds. We had laid in a good stock of provisions, knowing
that in consequence of the late war the country was nearly drained. We
now came to where the water was very bad, the country being flat and the
water stagnant. After straining it would still exhibit live insects,
which they call wiggles. The inhabitants were few and scattering, but
the soil remarkably good, the grass growing five or six feet high,
interspersed with flowers of all colors, which gave it a delightful
appearance. It is thought by many that this part of the country was once
overflown with water, and what adds to the probability is the number of
little hills or rises of land, covered with trees, standing in these
prairie grounds, like so many islands, as probably they once were. Great
numbers of cattle are drove from Kentucky and elsewhere to feed on these
grounds, and soon become very fat. We camped out two nights, and by
forming tents with blankets made ourselves very comfortable, and slept
without any apprehension, except from the prairie rattlesnake, a small
but very poisonous reptile, {50} frequently to be seen in those parts.
After a slow but safe journey, we arrived at Lower Sandusky,[26] two
hundred miles on our way. Here we sent our horses on by the mail
carrier, went on board of a vessel at the foot of the Sandusky Rapids,
so called, and went down the Sandusky river to the Lower Sandusky bay,
to a small town called Venice.[27] At this place but two years before,
not a tree had been fallen; now, between twenty and thirty log houses
are built, two large framed store houses, and two wharves for the
accommodation of the back country traders. Vessels of considerable size
come up lake Erie and deposite their loading here, being but six miles
from the lake. The next day after our arrival, president Monroe, with a
number of distinguished officers, stopped here, on his tour through the
Western country.[28] We stayed here two days, when we hired a man to
carry us across the lake in a boat. We laid in but a small quantity of
provision as the distance was but seventy miles, and with a fair wind
could run it in less than a day. We set sail at noon with a fair breeze,
and ran up the lake about twenty miles, keeping near the shore. About an
hour before sunset it became calm, and not wishing to be exposed on the
open lake in the night, we ran into a creek a short distance and made
our boat fast to a stake, which had been set there by some one before
us. We found there another boat with two men encamped on a pleasant
beach. The gentleman with his family and pilot went on shore and
encamped also. I chose to remain on board. They formed now a
considerable company, four men, one woman and three children. They built
up a large fire, got supper, prepared camps for the night, and laid down
in quietude, expecting a quiet night’s rest. But the clouds gathered up
fast, and between eight and nine o’clock the wind blew violently, and
they gathered up their blankets and clothing and tried to get on board
the boat, but she lay so far from shore that with all my assistance they
could not accomplish their object. The fire had all blown away and not a
spark left. The night was dark, and the rain poured down in torrents;
there was no shelter, not even a tree to defend them from the tempest.
The three men took each of them a child, wrapped it in a blanket, {51}
and sat down upon such clothing or bedding as came nearest to hand. The
other man and the woman were obliged to sit without anything but their
clothing. I often called to them from the boat, but the howling of the
tempest prevented me from being heard. In this situation they all
remained about eight hours till daylight, when it ceased to rain, but
the wind continued to blow very hard. I then moved the stern of the boat
round and got on shore; but the sight of these weather-beaten objects
presented a spectacle I cannot describe. The children, however, had been
kept considerably comfortable through the night. The woman acknowledged
she was alive, and that was all that could be said of her; the men
appeared much better than I should have supposed. As for myself, I was
comfortably situated, and should have slept well had it not been for the
anxiety I felt for my unhappy fellow-travellers on shore. The lake now
appeared more like the Atlantic than like an inland navigation, the
waves running so high that it was impossible for us to venture out; and
the high grass and a few bushes at a little distance promising some
assistance in sheltering us from the storm, we evacuated the old post
and retired to them for shelter, where with the help of our blankets and
other things we contrived so to break the wind as to enable us to kindle
up a fire sufficient to warm and dry ourselves. We then prepared the
remainder of our scanty food, which was sufficient for a meal after
reserving a part of it for the woman and her children. We remained here
through the day and night, the wind still blowing a gale. The next
morning very early, three men went in search of provisions, and did not
return till three o’clock in the afternoon. They had travelled all that
time and found but one house, where they obtained three small loaves of
bread, which were enough for the woman and children only. The wind had
now ceased to blow, and the lake was nearly smooth; and after feeding
the children we put our things on board, and made up the lake shore. At
sunset judging ourselves about thirty miles from Detroit, we ventured
out on the open lake with our oars only to move us ahead; we rowed all
night, and at daylight discovered the town of Malden[29] about six miles
directly ahead, on the {52} Canada shore; and a little breeze springing
up, we hoisted sail, and a little after sunrise landed half a mile below
the town. We went up, found a market, purchased fresh beef, bread, &c.,
and had a fine breakfast; it having been forty-eight hours since we had
eaten any thing before. We now had eighteen miles to stem a strong
current with our oars only, before reaching Detroit. At ten o’clock we
moved on, and after having labored hard till two o’clock in the morning,
we made up to the city of Detroit,[30] and went to a tavern, the
landlord of which had formerly been an acquaintance of ours. He, by some
means or other, had heard of our being on the lake in the blow I have
mentioned; himself and several others manned a vessel and went in
pursuit of us; but after making every possible search in vain, he
returned, supposing we must have been lost; but was most agreeably
surprised when he saw us under his own roof.