SOME HINTS ON MAKING A REGULATOR.
Of all the instruments used by a watchmaker in the prosecution of his
business, there is probably none more important than his regulator.
Its purpose is to divide time into seconds, and it is the standard by
which the practical results of his labors are tested; the guide which
all the other timekeepers in his possession are made to follow and the
arbitrator which settles all disputes regarding the performance of his
watches.
No regulator has yet been constructed that contains within itself
every element for producing absolutely accurate timekeeping. At
intervals they must all be corrected from some external source, such as
comparison with another timekeeper, the error of which is known, or by
the motion of the heavenly bodies, when instruments for that purpose
are available. Before beginning to make a regulator, the prudent
watchmaker will first reflect on the various plans of constructing all
the various details of an accurate timekeeper, and select the plan
which, in his opinion, or in the opinion of those whom he may consult
on the subject, will best accomplish the object he has in view.
In former years a regulator case was made with the sole object of
accommodating the requirements of the regulator, and every detail in
the construction of the case was made subservient to the necessities
of the clock. The plain, well made cases of former years are now
almost discarded for those of more pretentious design. If the general
change in the public taste demands so much display, there can be no
objection. It is perfectly harmless to the clock, if the designers and
makers of the cases would only remember that narrow waists or narrow
necks on a case, although part of an elegant design, do not afford the
necessary room for the weight and freedom of the pendulum; that the
doors and other openings in the case must be constructed with a view to
exclude dust; and that the back should be made of thick, well-seasoned
hardwood, such as oak or maple, so as to afford the means of obtaining
as firm a support for the pendulum as possible.
When a regulator case is known to have been made by an inexperienced
person, which sometimes happens, or when we already have a case, it
is always the safest course for those who make the clock to examine
the case personally and see the exact accommodation there is for the
clock. Sometimes, when we know beforehand, we can, without violating
any principle, vary the construction a little, so as to make the
weight clear the woodwork of the inside of the case, and in other
respects complete the regulator in a more workmanlike manner by
making the necessary alterations in the clock at the beginning of its
construction, instead of after it has been once finished agreeably to
some stereotyped arrangement.
The arrangement of the mechanism of an ordinary regulator is a simple
operation compared with some other horological instruments of a more
complex character. We are not limited in room to the same extent as
in a watch, and the parts being few in number a regulator is more
easily planned than timekeepers having striking or automatic mechanism
for other purposes combined with them; yet it often happens that
the inexperienced make serious blunders in planning a regulator,
and, as the clock approaches completion, many errors make themselves
visible, which might have been avoided by the exercise of a little
more forethought. It may be that, when the dial is being engraved, the
circles do not come in the right position, or the weight comes too
close to the pendulum, or the case, or the cord comes against a pillar,
or other faults of greater or less importance appear, all of which
might have been obviated by taking a more comprehensive view of the
subject before beginning to make the clock. The best way to do this is
to draw a plan and side and front elevations to a scale.
[Illustration: Fig. 152.]
The position which the barrel and great wheel should occupy is worthy
of serious consideration. In most of the cheap regulators, as well as
in a few of a more expensive order, the barrel is placed in a direct
line below the center wheel, as is shown in Fig. 152. This arrangement
admits of a very compact movement, and it also allows the weight to
hang exactly in the center of the case, which some think looks better
than when it hangs at the side, especially when there is a glass door
in the body of the case. But while a weight hanging in the center
of a case may be more pleasing to the eye than when it hangs at the
side, this is an instance where looks can, with great propriety, be
sacrificed for utility, because when the weight hangs in the center
it comes too close to the pendulum, and is very liable to disturb its
motion. In proof of this statement, let any reader who has a regulator
with a light pendulum and a comparatively large weight hanging in
front of it, closely watch the length of the arc the pendulum vibrates
when the weight is newly wound up and when it is down opposite the
pendulum ball, and he will observe that the length of vibration of
the pendulum varies from five to fifteen minutes of arc, according to
the position in which the weight is placed; that the pendulum will
vibrate larger arcs when the weight is above or below the ball than
when it is opposite it; and if the clock has a tendency to stop from
any cause, that it will generally do so more readily when the weight is
opposite the pendulum ball than when it is in any other position. For
this reason I would dispense with the symmetrical looks of the weight
hanging in the center of the case, which, after all, is only a matter
of taste, and construct the movement so that the weight will hang at
the side, and as, far away from the pendulum as possible.
Fig. 153 is intended to represent the effect which placing the barrel
at either side has on throwing the weight away from the pendulum. A is
the center wheel; B and C are the great wheels and barrels with weights
hanging from them; D is the pendulum. It will be noticed by the diagram
that the weight at the left of the pendulum is exactly the diameter of
the barrel farther away from the pendulum than the weight on the right.
On close inspection it will also be observed that on the barrel C the
force of the weight is applied between the axis of the barrel and the
teeth of the wheel, while on the barrel B the axis of the barrel lies
between the point where the force is applied and the point where the
teeth act on the pinion; consequently a little more of the effective
force of the weight is consumed by the extra amount of pressure and
friction on the pivots of the barrel B than there is in C.
[Illustration: Fig. 153.]
Notwithstanding this disadvantage, I would for a regulator recommend
the barrel to be placed at the left side of the center wheel, because
the weight may thereby be led a sufficient distance from the pendulum
in a simple manner. If we place the barrel at the right, and thereby
secure the greatest effective force of the weight, and then lead the
weight to the side by a pulley, we will lose a great deal more by the
friction of the pulley than we gain by the proper application of the
weight.
In a regulator with a Graham escapement but little force is required
to keep it going, and there is usually accommodation for an abundance
of power; therefore we cannot use a little of this superabundant
available force to better advantage than by placing the barrel at the
left side of the clock, and thereby throw the weight a sufficient
distance from the pendulum in the simplest manner.
The escapement we assume to be the old dead beat, as for timekeeping
it is equal to a gravity escapement while possessing advantages
undesirable to sacrifice for a doubtful improvement. The advantages it
possesses over any form of gravity escapement are: it has fewer pieces
and not so many wheels; it takes very much less power to drive; is not
liable to fail in action while winding, if the maintaining power should
be rather weak; while for counting, seconds and estimating fractions,
its clear, definite, and equable beat has great superiority over the
complication of noises made by a gravity escapement.
Full directions for making this and other escapements have already been
given, but in a regulator there are some considerations which will not
be encountered in connection with the escapements of ordinary clocks,
where fine timekeeping is not expected. We have previously stated that
the center of suspension of the pendulum should be exactly in line with
the axis of the escapement and we will now endeavor to state plainly
how important this is in a fine clock and the reasons for it. Mr.
Charles Frodsham, the noted English chronometer maker, has conducted a
series of careful experiments and the results were communicated in a
report to the British Horological Society, as follows:
When we talk of detached escapements, or any escapement applied to
a pendulum, it is necessary to bear in mind that there is always
one-third at the least of the pendulum’s vibration during which the
arc of escapement is intimately mixed up with the vibration, either
in locking, unlocking, or in giving impulse; therefore, whatever
inherent faults any escapement may possess are constantly mixed up in
the result; the words “detached escapement” can hardly be applied
when the entire arc of vibration is only two degrees; or, in other
words, what part of the vibration is left without the influence of the
escapement?—at most one degree. In chronometers the arc of vibration is
from ten to fifteen times greater than the arc of escapement.
The dead-beat escapement has been accused of interfering with the
natural isochronism of the pendulum by its extreme friction on the
circular rests, crutch, and difficulty of unlocking, etc., all of which
we shall show is only so when improperly made.
When the dead-beat escapement has been mathematically constructed, and
is strictly correct in all its bearings, its vibrations are found to
be isochronous for arcs of different extent from 0.75 of a degree to
2.50 degrees; injurious friction does not then exist; the run up on
the locking has no influence, nor is there any friction at the crutch;
oil is not absolutely necessary, except at the pivots; and there is no
unlocking resistance nor any inclination to repel or attract the wheel
at its lockings.
The general mode of making this escapement is very defective and
indefinite, and entirely destroys the naturally isochronous vibration
of the pendulum.
The following is the usual rate of the same pendulum’s performance
in the different arcs of vibration with an escapement as generally
constructed after empirical rules:
Arc of vibration 3° rate per diem 9.0 seconds.
Arc of vibration 2½° rate per diem 6.0 seconds.
Arc of vibration 2° rate per diem 3.5 seconds.
Arc of vibration 1½° rate per diem 1.5 seconds.
Arc of vibration 1° rate per diem 0.0 seconds.
Thus for a change of vibration of 1°, we have a daily error of 3.5.
No change of suspending spring will alter inherent mechanical errors
destructive of the laws of motion. With clocks made in the usual
manner, whether you apply a long or short spring, strong or weak,
broad or narrow, you will not remove one fraction of the error; so
the sooner the fallacy of relying upon the suspending spring to cure
mechanical errors is exploded the better.
That the suspending spring plays a most important part must be
admitted, since, when suspended by a spring, a pendulum is kept in
motion by a few grains only, whereas, if supported on ordinary pivots,
200 lbs. weight would not drive it 2′ beyond its arc of escapement, so
great would be the friction at the point of suspension.
The conditions on which alone the vibrations of the pendulum will be
isochronous are the following:
1. That the pendulum be at time with and without the
clock, in which state it is isochronous “suspended
by a spring.”
2. That the crutch and pallets shall each travel at
the same precise angular velocity as the pendulum,
which can only happen when the arc each is to
describe is in direct proportion to its distance
from the center of motion, that is, from the pallet
axis.
3. That the angular force communicated by the crutch
to the pendulum shall be equal on both sides of the
quiescent point; or, in other words, that the lead
of each pallet shall be of the same precise amount.
4. That any number of degrees marked by the crutch
or pallets shall correspond with the same number
of degrees shown by the lead of the pendulum, as
marked by the index on the degree plate.
5. That the various vibrations of the pendulum be
driven by a motive weight in strict accordance with
the theoretical law; that is, if a 5-lb. weight
cause the pendulum to double its arc of escapement
of 1°, and consequently drive it 2°, all the
intermediate arcs of vibration shall in practice
accord with the theory of increasing or diminishing
their arcs in the ratio of the square roots of the
motive weight.
To accomplish the foregoing conditions, there is but one fixed point
or line of distance between the axis of the escape wheel and that of
the pallet, and that depends upon the number of teeth embraced by the
pallets and only one point in which the pallet axis can be placed from
which the several lines of the escapement can be correctly traced
and properly constructed with equal angles, and equal rectangular
lockings on both sides, so that each part travels with the same degree
of angular velocity, which are the three essential points of the
escapement.
Much difference of opinion has been expressed upon the construction of
the pallets, as to whether the lockings or circular rests should be at
equal distances from the pallet axis, with arms and impulse planes of
unequal length, or at unequal distances from the pallet axis, with arms
and impulse planes of equal length. In the latter case the locking on
one side is three degrees above, and on the other three degrees below
the rectangle, whereas in the former the tooth on both sides reposes
at right angles to the line of pressure; but the length of the impulse
planes is unequal. When an escapement is correctly made upon either
plan, the results are very similar.
It is possible to obtain equal angles by a false center of motion or
pallet axis; but then the arcs of repose will not be equal. This,
however, is not of so much consequence as that of having destroyed the
conditions Nos. 2, 3, 4; for even at correct centers, if the angles are
not drawn off correctly by the protractor, and precisely equal to each
other, the isochronous vibrations of the pendulum will be destroyed,
and unequal arcs will no longer be performed in equal times; the
quiescent point is not the center of the vibration, except when the
driving forces are equal on both sides of the natural quiescent point
of the pendulum at rest.
Now this is the very pith of the subject, and which few would be
inclined to look for with any hope of finding in it the solution of
this important question, the isochronism of the pendulum.
One would naturally suppose that unequal arcs on the two sides of the
vertical lines would not seriously affect the rate of the clock, but
would be equal and contrary, and consequently a balance of errors, and
so they probably are for the same fixed vibration, but not for any
other; because different angles are driven with different velocities,
the short angle has a quicker rate of motion than the long. Five pounds
motive weight will multiply three times the pendulum’s vibration over
an arc of escapement of 0.75°; but the same pendulum, with an arc of
escapement of 1°, would require 11.20 lbs. to treble its vibration; the
times of the vibration vary in the same ratio as the sum of the squares
of the differences of the angles of each pallet, compared with the
spaces passed over.
From this it will be seen that the exact bending point of the pendulum
spring should be opposite the axis of the fork arbor when regulating
the clock and this may have to be determined by trial, raising or
lowering the plates by screws in the arms of the suspending brackets
until the proper position is found, when the movement may be clamped
firmly in position by the binding screws, see Fig. 158.
On common clocks the crutch is simply riveted on its collet and bent
as required to set the clock in beat, but for a first-class clock a
more refined arrangement is usually adopted. There are other plans,
but perhaps none so thoroughly sound and convenient as the following.
The crutch itself is made of a piece of flat steel cut away so as to
leave a round boss at the bottom for the fork, and a round boss at the
top to fit on a collet on the pallet arbor, a part projecting above to
be embraced between a pair of opposing screws. On the collet is fixed
a thin brass plate with two lugs projecting backwards from the frame,
these lugs being drilled and tapped to receive the opposing screws in
a line. The boss of the crutch lies flat against this plate, and is
held up to it by a removable collet. The collet may be pinned across
or fitted keyhole fashion, in either case so as to hold the crutch
firmly, allowing it to move with a little stiffness under the influence
of the screws. With this arrangement the adjustment to beat may be
made with the utmost delicacy by slacking one screw and advancing
the other, taking care that in the end they are well set home so as
to make the crutch practically all one piece with the arbor. Milled
heads are most convenient for these screws, and being placed at the
top they are easily got at. The crutch should always be fitted with a
fork to embrace the pendulum rod, as this ensures the impulse being
given directly through the center, and with the same object the acting
sides of the fork should be truly square to the frame. A slot in the
pendulum rod with a pin acting in it is never so sure of being correct,
as, although the surfaces may be rounded, it is very unlikely that the
points of contact will be truly in the plane of the axis of the rod.
The slightest error in this respect will tend to cause wobbling of
the bob, although, to avoid this, great attention must also be given
to the suspension spring, the pin on which it hangs, and the pin and
the hole at the top of the pendulum rod. All these points must be in
a true line, and the spring symmetrical on both sides of the line in
order that the impulse may be given exactly opposite the center of the
mass, otherwise wobbling must occur, although perhaps of an amount
so small as to be difficult of detection, and this is not a matter
of small importance, as it has an effect on the rate which could be
mathematically demonstrated.
The frames of many regulators are made too large and heavy. In some
cases there may be good reasons for making them large and heavy, but
in most instances, and especially when the pendulum is not suspended
from the movement, it would be much better to make the frames lighter
than we frequently find them. Very large frames present a massive
appearance, and convey an idea of strength altogether out of proportion
to the work a regulator is required to perform. They are more difficult
and more expensive to make than lighter ones, and after they are made
they are more troublesome to handle, and the pivots of the pinions are
in greater danger of being broken when the clock is being put together
than when they are moderately light.
In a clock such as we have under consideration, where the frame is
not to be used as a support for the pendulum, but simply to contain
the various parts which constitute the movement, the thickness of the
frames may with propriety be determined on the basis of the diameter
of the majority of the pivots which work into the holes of the frames.
The length of the bearing surface of a pivot will, according to
circumstances, vary from one to two and a half times the diameter of
the pivot. The majority of the pivots of our regulator will not be more
than .05 or .06 of an inch in diameter; consequently a frame 0.15 of an
inch thick will allow a sufficient length of bearing for the greater
portion of the pivots, and will also allow for countersinks to be made
for the purpose of holding the oil. If thin plates are used one or two
of the larger pivots should be run in bushes placed in the frame, as
described in Fig. 155.
The length and breadth of the frame, and also its shape, should be
determined solely on the basis of utility. There can be no better shape
for the purpose of a regulator than a plain oblong, without any attempt
whatever at ornament. For our regulator a frame nine inches long and
seven inches broad will allow ample accommodation for everything, as
may be seen on referring to Fig. 157.
[Illustration: Fig. 154.]
The plates are made of various alloys: cast-brass, nickel-silver, and
hard-rolled sheet brass. It is difficult to make plates of cast-brass
which would be even, free from specks, etc., but cast plates may very
well be made of ornamental patterns and bushings of brass rod inserted,
or they may be jeweled as shown in Figs. 154, 155, 156. Nickel, or
German silver, makes a fine plate, but it is difficult to drill the
small holes through plates of four-tenths of an inch in thickness, on
account of the peculiar toughness of the metal, so that bushings are
necessary. The best material where the holes are to be in the plates
is fine, hard-rolled sheet brass; it should have about 4 oz. of lead
to the 100 lbs., which will make it “chip free,” as clockmakers term
it, rendering it easy to drill; the metal is so fine and condensed to
that extent by rolling, that the holes can be made with the greatest
degree of perfection. The many improvements in tools and machinery
have effected great changes and improvements in clock-making. It once
was quite a difficult task to drill the small holes in the plates with
the ordinary drills and lathes; now we lay the plates after they are
soldered together at the edges (which is preferable to pinning), on the
table of an upright drill, and with one of the modern twist-drills the
task is rendered a very easy one. After the pivot holes are drilled,
we run through from each side a round broach, finished lengthwise and
hardened, which acts as a fine reamer, straightening and polishing the
holes exquisitely. A little oil should be used on the reamer to prevent
sticking. The method of fitting up the pivot holes invented by LeRoy, a
French clockmaker of some note, is shown in Fig. 154. It is a sectional
view of the plate at the pivot hole. It will be observed that, instead
of countersinking for the oil, the reverse is the case. A is a hardened
steel plate counterbored into the clock plate B, and held in its place
by the screws. There should be a small space between the steel plate
and the crown of the arch for the oil. After the clock has been put
together it is laid down on its face or side, a drop of oil is put to
the pivot end, and the steel plate immediately put on; and the oil will
at once assume the shape of the shaded spot in the drawing, being held
in the position at the center of the pivot by capillary attraction,
until it is exhausted by the pivots; the steel plates also govern the
end play of the pinions. The pivot ends being allowed to touch the
plates occasionally, the shoulders of the pinions are turned away into
a curve, and, of course, do not bear against the plate, as in most
clocks.
[Illustration: Fig. 155.]
Glass plates may be used instead of steel, or rose cut thin garnets,
or sapphires, with the flat sides smoothly polished, may be bought of
material dealers and set in bezels like a cap jewel. They are very hard
and smooth for the pivot ends, and the state of the oil at the pivots
can be seen at any time. Clocks fitted up in this manner have been
running many years without oiling.
[Illustration: Fig. 156.]
When fitted up in this way the plates may be thicker. We have made the
clock plates about four-tenths of an inch in thickness, which allows
of counterboring, and admits of long bearings for the barrel arbor,
which are so liable to be worn down in the holes by the weights; and
the pivots of the pinions, by being a little longer, do not materially
increase the friction.
In first-class clocks, when all the materials are as hard as possible,
the wheels and pinions high numbered, the teeth, pinions, pivots, and
holes smooth, true, and well polished, the amount of wear is very
slight, especially if the driving weight has no useless excess. Yet
there are advantages in having some parts jeweled, such as the pallets
and the four escapement holes. The cost of such jeweling is not an
objection, while the diminished friction of the smooth, hard surfaces
is worth the extra outlay. The holes can be set in the bushes described
in Fig. 156, the end stones being cheap semi-precious stones, either
rose cut or round.
For jeweling the pallets, dovetailed slots may be made so that the
stones will be of a wedge shape; there is no need for cutting the slots
right through as in lever watch pallets. The stones will be held more
firmly if shaped as wedges lying on a bed of the steel and exposing
only the circular resting curve and the driving face. The slots can
be filed out and the stones ground on a copper lap to fit, fixed with
shellac and pressed firmly home while warm. The grinding and polishing
of the acting surfaces are done exactly as described for hard steel,
only using diamond powder instead of emery. The best stones are pale
milky sapphires, such as are useless as gems, this kind of stone being
the hardest.
The holes may be much shorter when jeweled, as the amount of bearing
surface required with stones is less than with brass; this results in
less adhesion through the oil, and less variation of force through
its changes of consistency. The ’scape wheel may also be thinner with
similar results, and less weight to be moved besides. So the advantages
of jeweling are worth consideration.
It is important to finish the wheels and pinions before drilling any
holes in the plates and then to definitely locate the holes after trial
in the depthing tool.
For the clockmaker’s use the next in value to the wheel cutting
engine is a strong and rigid depthing tool, for it is by means of
this instrument that the proper center distances of wheels and pinions
can be ascertained, and all errors in sizes of wheels and pinions, and
shapes of teeth, are at once detected before the holes are drilled in
the plates. In fact, this tool becomes for the moment the clock itself;
and if the workman will consider that as the wheels and pinions perform
in the tool for the little time he is testing them, so they will
continue to run during the life of the clock, he will not be too hasty
in allowing wheels to go as correct when a hundredth of an inch larger
or smaller, and another test, would, perhaps, make the pitching perfect.
There are various kinds of depthing tools in use, but many of them are
objectionable for the reason that the centers are so long that the
marking points on their outer ends, are too far from the point where
the pitching or depthing is being tested, and the slightest error in
the parallelism of these centers is, of course, multiplied by the
distance, so that it may be a serious difference. Having experienced
some trouble from this cause, we made an instrument with very short
centers, on the principle that the marking points, or centers, should
be as near the testing place as possible. We succeeded in making one
with a difference of only three-fourths of an inch, which was so exact
that we had no further trouble. It was made on the Sector plan, but
upright, so that the work under inspection, whether wheels and pinions,
or escapements, could be observed closely, and with a glass, if
necessary.
It is very important that the posts or pillars and side-plates of
clocks should be made and put together in the most thorough manner; the
posts should be turned exact to length and have large shoulders, turned
true, so that the plates, when put together without screws should fit
accurately, for if they do not, when the screws are driven, some of the
pivots will be cramped. We prefer iron for the posts, it being stiffer,
and better retaining the screw threads in the ends, which in brass are
liable to strip unless long and deep holes are tapped. Steel pillars
should be blued after being finely finished, thus presenting a pleasing
contrast. The plate screws should also be of steel, with large flat
heads, turned up true, and having a washer next to the plate. Brass
pillars are favored by many and are easier turned in a small lathe, but
they should be much larger than the steel ones.
[Illustration: Fig. 157.]
[Illustration: Fig. 158.]
[Illustration: Fig. 159.]
When the pillars are made of brass round rod of proper diameter is
the best stock. If this cannot be procured, a pattern is turned from
wood, and a little larger in every respect than the pillar is desired
to be. If there is to be any ornament put on the pillar, it is never
made on the pattern, because it makes it more difficult to cast, and
besides, the ornamentation would all be spoiled in the hammering. The
pattern must be turned smooth, and the finer it is the better will be
the casting. After the casting is received the first thing to be done
is to hammer the brass, and then center the holes, because it will be
seen from Fig. 159 that there are holes for screws at each end of the
pillar. Holes of about .20 of an inch are then bored in the ends of the
pillars, and should be deep, because deep holes do no harm and greatly
facilitate the tapping for the screws. After the holes are tapped, run
in a bottoming tap and then countersink them a little, to prevent the
pillar from going out of truth in the turning. It will depend a great
deal on the conveniences which belong to the lathe the pillars are
turned in as to how they will be held in the lathe and turned. If the
holes in the ends of the pillars have been bored and tapped true, and
if the lathe has no kind of a chuck or face plate with dogs, suitable
for holding rods, the best way is to catch a piece of stout steel wire
in the chuck and turn it true, cut a true screw on it, and on this
screw one end of the pillar, and run the other end in a male center.
However, if the screws are not all perfectly true, and the centers of
the lathe not perfectly in line, this plan will not work well, and
it will be necessary to catch a carrier on to the pillar and turn it
between two male centers.
The dial feet are precisely the same as the pillars, only smaller.
These dial feet are intended to be fastened in the frame by a screw,
the same as the pillars; but it will be observed that the screw which
is intended to hold the dial on the pillar is smaller. The dial feet
will be turned in precisely the same manner as the pillars. For
finishing the plain surfaces of the pillars and dial feet, an old 6 or
7-inch smooth file makes a good tool. The end of the file is ground
flat, square or slightly rounded, and perfectly smooth. The smoother
the cutting surface the smoother the work done by it will be. It is
difficult to convey the idea to the inexperienced how to use this tool
successfully. In the first place, a good lathe is necessary, or at
least one that allows the work to run free without any shake. In the
second place, the tool must be ground perfectly square, that is, it
is not to be ground at an angle like an ordinary cutting tool. Then
the rest of the lathe must be smooth on the top, and the operator must
have confidence in himself, because if he thinks that he cannot turn
perfectly smooth, it will be a long time before he is able to do it. A
tool for turning the rounded part of the pillar, if a pattern of this
style is decided on, is made by boring a hole, the size of the desired
curve, in an old file, or in a piece of flat steel, and smoothing
the hole with a broach and then filing away the steel. The shoulders
should be smooth and flat, or a very little undercut, and the ends of
the pillars should be rounded as is shown in Fig. 159, because rounded
points assist greatly in making the frames go on to the pillars sure
and easy, and greatly lessen the danger of breaking a pivot when the
clock is being put together.
When a washer is used the points of the pillars project half the
thickness of the washer through the frames, the hole in the washer
being large enough to go on to the points of the pillars.
[Illustration: Fig. 160.]
Figure 160 is an outline of the cock required for the pallet arbor, and
the only cock that will be required for the regulator. It is customary,
in some instances, to use a cock for the scape wheel and also for the
hour wheel arbors, but for the scape wheel arbor I consider that a cock
should never be used when it can be avoided. The idea of using a cock
for the scape wheel arbor is to bring the shoulder of the pivot near to
the dial and thereby make the small pivot that carries the seconds hand
so much shorter; and so far this is good, but then the distance between
the shoulders of the arbor being greater, when a cock is used the
arbor is more liable to spring and cause the scape wheel to impart an
irregular force to the pendulum through the pallets. This is the reason
why I prefer not to use a cock except when the design of the case is
such that long dial feet are necessary, and renders the use of a cock
indispensable. In the present instance, however, the dial feet are no
longer than is just necessary to allow for a winding square on the
barrel arbor, and therefore a cock for the scape wheel is superfluous.
It is better to use a long light socket for the seconds hand than put
a cock on the scape wheel arbor in ordinary cases. Except for the
purpose of uniformity a cock on the hour wheel is always superfluous,
although its presence is comparatively harmless. The front pivot of
the hour wheel axis can always be left thick and strong enough should
the design of the case require the dial feet to be extra long.
For the pallet arbor, however, a cock is always necessary, and it
should always be made high enough to allow the back fork to be brought
as near to the pendulum as possible, so as to prevent any possibility
of its twisting when the power is being communicated from the pallets
to the pendulum. This cock should be made about the same thickness as
the frames, and about half an inch broad. Make the pattern out of a
piece of hard wood, either in one solid piece or by fastening a number
of pieces together. The pattern should be made a little heavier than
the cock is required to be when finished, and it should also be made
slightly bevelled to allow it to be easily drawn from the sand when
preparing the mould for casting. After it is cast the brass should be
hammered carefully, and then filed square, flat, and smooth.
Screws are better and cheaper when purchased, but they may be made of
steel or brass rod by any workman who is provided with a set of fine
taps and dies. If purchased they should be hardened, polished and blued
before using them in the regulator. The threads of screws vary in
proportion to the size of the screw and the material from which it is
made. A screw with from 32 to 40 turns to the inch, and a thread of the
same shape as the fine dies for sale in the tool shops make, is well
adapted for the large screws in a regulator. However, it is not threads
of the screws I desire to call attention to so much, although it must
be admitted that the threads are of primary importance. It is the shape
of the heads and the points which is too often neglected.
A thread, or a thread and a half, cut down on the point of a screw,
will allow it to enter easier than when the point is flat, round, or
shaped like a center. This is not a new idea for making the points
of screws, but the plan is either not known to many, or it is not
practiced to the extent it ought to be.
The shape of the head of a screw should also always be based on
utility, and the shape that will admit of a slit into it that will
wear well should be selected. A round head ought never to be used,
because a head of this shape does not present the same amount of
surface to the screwdriver that a square head does. It is the extreme
end of the slit that is most effective, and in round-headed screws this
part is cut away and the value of the head for wearing by the use of
the screwdriver is the same as if the head of the screw was so much
smaller. A chamfered head may suit the tastes of some people better
than a perfectly flat head, but in a head of this shape the slit must
be cut deeper than in a square head, because the chamfered part of the
head is of little or no use for the screwdriver to act against. The
slits should always be cut carefully in the center of the head and the
sides of the slit filed perfectly flat with a thin file and the slight
burr filed off the edge to prevent the top of the head getting bruised
by the action of the screwdriver. The shape of the slit which is best
adapted for wearing is one slightly tapered, with a round bottom. The
round bottom gives greater strength to the head, and prevents the heads
of small screws from splitting.
I have dwelt at some length on these little details because a proper
attention to them goes a long way in the making of a clock in a
workmanlike manner, and it is desirable that the practical details
should be as minute as possible.
The construction of the barrel is a subject which requires a greater
amount of consideration than is sometimes bestowed upon it. We often
meet with regulator barrels which have considerable more brass put into
them than is necessary. The value of this extra metal is of little or
no consequence. It is the unnecessary pressure the weight of it causes
on the barrel pivots, and the consequent increase of friction, which is
objectionable. For this reason the weight of the barrel, as well as the
weight of every other part of the clock that moves on pivots, should
be made no heavier than is absolutely necessary to secure the required
amount of strength. In every instance, except when the diameter is
required to be very small, the barrel should be made of a piece of thin
brass tubing with two ends of cast-brass fastened into it.
[Illustration: Fig. 161.]
Figure 161 is a sectional view of the ends of a barrel; the diagram
on the right is the end where the great wheels rest against, and the
one on the left is the other end. The insides of both these ends
are precisely the same, but the outsides differ a little. It will
be observed that there is a little projection near the hole on the
outside of the front end. This projection is left with the view of
making the hole in the center longer, and thereby causing this end to
take a firmer hold on the barrel arbor. The back end, or the end that
the great wheels rest against, and where the ratchet teeth are cut,
is shaped precisely like the diagram on the right of Fig. 161. If you
cannot get brass plate of sufficient thickness for the ends of the
barrel they must be cast.
The patterns for these barrel ends should be made without any hole
in the center, and in every way heavier and thicker than they are to
be when finished, because it is difficult to obtain good and solid
castings when the patterns are made thin, although it is by no means
impossible to make them so. Like all brass castings used for the
clockmaker’s purpose, they should be carefully hammered, and, although
these pieces are of an irregular shape, they can be easily hammered
regularly with the aid of narrow-faced hammers or punches, and with the
exercise of a little patience. After hammering, the castings should
be placed on a face plate in the lathe, and the tube which is to form
the top part of the barrel fitted easy and without shake on to the
flanges and the other parts of the castings turned down to the required
thickness, and a hole a little less than 0.3 of an inch diameter bored
in the center of each before it is removed from the face plate. The
tube which is to form the top of the barrel should be no heavier than
is just necessary to cut a groove for the cord, and for this regulator
it should be 1.5 inch diameter outside measurement, 1.5 inch long, and
turned perfectly true on the ends.
The hole in the front end of the barrel, which is the end nearest to
the dial, should be broached a little from the inside, and the other
end broached a little larger from the outside. The reason for broaching
the holes in this manner is to cause the thickest part of the barrel
arbor to be at the place where the great wheels work, because, in
making a barrel for a regulator, it will generally be found that the
arbor requires to be thickest in this particular place. The arbor
should be made from a piece of fine cast steel a little more than 0.3
of an inch thick, and not less than four inches long. It is always
well to have the steel long enough. This steel should be carefully
centered and turned true, and of the same size and taper as the holes
in the barrel ends. It is not necessary that the barrel arbor should be
hardened and tempered, except on special occasions. In most cases it
will last as long as any other part of the clock if it is left soft,
and it is much easier to make when soft. Before fitting the arbor
to the barrel ends it is well to place the ends into the tube that
is to form the top of the barrel, because a better fit can be made
in this way than when each is fitted separately. When the arbor has
been fitted, a good and convenient way of fastening it together is,
to use soft solder. It can be easily heated to the required degree of
heat with the blow-pipe. A very little solder is sufficient for the
purpose, and if the joints have been well fitted the solder will not
show when the work is finished. Care should be taken to notice that
the solder adheres to the arbors properly. Perhaps it would be well to
mention here that, should the clockmaker not have access to a cutting
engine with conveniences attached to it for cutting the barrel ratchet
after the barrel has been put together, the ratchet should be cut first.
When the different pieces which constitute a barrel have been fastened
together the brass work has next to be turned true, and the grooves cut
for the cord to run in. It is best not to turn anything off the arbor
till the grooves are cut, because they are usually cut smoother when
the arbor is strong. The most important points to notice when turning a
barrel is to be sure that the top is of equal diameter from the one end
to the other, and that the bearing where the great wheels rest against
are perfectly true, because, if the top of a barrel is of unequal
thickness, the weight will pull with unequal force as it runs down, and
if the bearing on the end be out of truth the great wheels will also
be very liable to get out of truth, as their position on the barrel is
altered by winding the clock up.
The shape of the outside of the barrel ends, as is represented in Fig.
161, will be found to be good and serviceable. AA is the bearing for
the great wheels to rest against; BB is where the ratchet teeth are to
be cut. There must be a little turned off the face of BB, as is shown
in the diagram, so as to prevent the great wheel from rubbing on the
teeth. The space between AA and the barrel arbor is turned smooth.
Although it is by no means an absolute necessity to have a groove cut
in the top of the barrel, yet it is extremely desirable that there
should be one, so that the cord may always be guided with certainty as
the clock is wound up. It has long been a disputed question whether
the cord should be fastened at the front end of the barrel and wind
towards the back, or whether it should be fastened at the back and
wind towards the front. I am not aware that there is any violation of
principle, so far as the regularity of the power is concerned, whether
the cord runs one way or the other. I understand it to be solely a
question of keeping the weight clear of the case and the pendulum
ball. In ordinary constructed regulator cases this object will be best
attained by cutting the screw so that the cord can be fastened at the
front of the barrel and wind towards the back; because in making it
in this way, the weight is the length of the barrel farther away from
the front of the case when it is wound up, and about the same distance
farther away from the pendulum ball when it is nearly run down, than if
the cord was fastened at the back end of the barrel and wound towards
the front. The cutting of the groove is usually done in an ordinary
screw cutting lathe.
In making the pivots on a barrel it is the usual custom to make the
back pivot smaller than the front one but, with all due respect for
this time-honored custom, I would direct a little attention to the
philosophy of continuing to make the barrel pivots of a regulator in
this manner. Friction varies with pressure; a large pivot has a greater
amount of friction than a smaller one, because the pressure on the
sliding surface of the revolving body is farther away from the center
of motion in one case than in the other. In regulators where the barrel
pivots are of a different size, the effective force of the weight will
vary slightly according as the weight is fully wound up or nearly run
down. In one instance the pressure of the weight is more directly
on the large pivot than it is on the smaller one; and in the other
instance the pressure is more directly on the small pivot than it is on
the larger one, and when the weight is half wound up, or half run down,
the pressure is equal on both pivots.
In the center pinion and in some of the other arbors of a clock, it
is sometimes necessary to make one pivot considerably larger than the
other; but in these cases the difference in the size of the pivots
does not affect the regularity of the transmission of the power,
because the pressure that turns the wheel is always at the same
point. In a regulator barrel, however, the pressure of the cord and
weight shifts gradually from one end of the barrel to the other, as
the clock runs down, and when the pivots are of unequal thickness the
power is transmitted nearly as irregular as if the top of the barrel
was slightly conical and both pivots of the same size. For the above
reason, I think, that it will be plain to all that in a fine clock
both of the barrel pivots should be made of an equal diameter. The
front pivot should be made no larger than is absolutely necessary for
a winding square, and when we take the fact into consideration that a
fine clock with a Graham escapement requires considerable less power
to keep it in motion than an eight-day marine chronometer does, we
may safely conclude that the winding squares of many regulators of
the Graham class might be made smaller. A pivot about 0.2 of an inch
will secure a sufficient amount of strength. For the reasons mentioned
above, the back pivot should be exactly the same diameter, and although
the effects of friction will be slightly greater when both pivots are
of an equal size, still the force of the weight will be transmitted
more regularly, which is the object aimed at. Where the plates are
bushed a length of two to three diameters is long enough for the pivot
holes.
The stop works, maintaining powers and general arrangement of the
great wheel, ratchets and clicks, have been so fully described and
illustrated on pages 282 to 290, Figs. 83 to 87, that it would be
useless duplication to repeat them here, and the reader is therefore
referred to those pages, for full particulars. This is also the case
with the purely mechanical operations of cutting the wheels and
pinions, hardening, polishing, staking, etc.; all have been fully
treated; but there are some further considerations which may be
mentioned here. The practical value of making pinions with very high
numbers is very much over-rated. I know of two clocks situated in the
same building that are compared every other day by transit observation.
They both have Graham escapements and mercurial pendulums, and are
equally well fitted up, and as far as the eye can detect, they are
about equally well made in all the essential points, with only this
difference: one clock has pinions of eight, and the other pinions of
sixteen leaves, yet for two years one clock ran about equally as well
as the other. In fact, if there was any difference, it was in favor of
the clock with the eight-leaved pinions. In giving this example, I must
not be understood to be placing little value on high numbered pinions.
I know that in some instances they can be used to advantage. The
idea that I want to illustrate at present is, that it is not in this
direction that we are to search for the means of improving the rates of
regulators.
A pinion as low as eleven leaves can be made so that the action of the
tooth will begin at or beyond the line of centers; but as eleven is an
inconvenient number to use in clockwork, we may with great propriety
decide upon twelve as being a sufficient number of leaves for all the
pinions used in a regulator having a Graham escapement.
In arranging the size of the wheels in a regulator, the diameters of
the center and third wheels are determined by the distance between
the center of the minute and the center of the seconds hand circle on
the dial. As the dials of regulators are usually engraved after the
dial plates have been fitted, and as the position of the holes in the
dial for the center and scape wheel pivots to come through determines
the size of the seconds circle, it may be well to mention here that,
for a twelve-inch dial, two and a half inches is a good distance for
the center of the minute circle to be from the center of the seconds
circle. Consequently the center and third wheels must be made of such
a diameter as will raise the scape wheel arbor two and a half inches
from the center arbor, and the other wheels must be made proportionally
larger, according to the number of teeth they contain.
We all know what a difficult matter it is to make a cutter that will
cut a tooth of the proper shape; but when the cutter is once made
and carefully used, we also know that it will cut or finish a great
number of wheels without injury. For this reason, those who are
contemplating making only one, or at most but a few regulators, will
find the work will be greatly simplified by making the wheels of a
diameter proportionate to the number of teeth they contain, and for all
practical purposes the cutter that cuts or finishes the teeth of one
wheel will be sufficiently accurate for the others. If we make all the
pinions with the same number of leaves they will also all be nearly of
the same diameter, and may be cut, or rather the cutting operation may
without any great impropriety be finished with one cutter.
An opinion prevails among a certain class of workmen that the teeth of
the great wheel and leaves of the center pinion should be made larger
and stronger than the other wheels and pinions, because there is a
greater strain upon them than on the other. However reasonable this
idea may seem, a little consideration will show that in the case of
a regulator, with a Graham escapement, where so little motive power
is required to keep it in motion, an arrangement of this nature is
altogether unnecessary. The smallest teeth ever used in any class of
regulators are strong enough for the great wheel; and if there be a
greater amount of strain on the teeth of the great wheel in comparison
with the teeth of the third wheel, for example, then make the great
wheel itself proportionately thicker, as is usually done, according to
the extra amount of strain that it is to bear. The teeth of wheels and
the leaves of pinions wear more from imperfect construction than from
any want of a sufficient amount of metal in them.
If we assume the distance between the center of the minute and the
center of the seconds circle to be 2½ inches, and also assume that the
clock will have a seconds pendulum, and all the pinions have 12 leaves,
and the barrel make one turn in 12 hours, then the following is the
diameter the wheels will require to be, so that the teeth may all be
cut with one cutter, and also the number of teeth for each wheel:
Great wheel 144 teeth.
Diameter 3.40 inches for the pitch circumference.
Hour wheel 144 teeth.
Diameter 3.40 inches for the pitch circumference.
Center wheel 96 teeth.
Diameter 2.26 inches for the pitch circumference.
Third wheel 90 teeth.
Diameter 2.11 inches for the pitch circumference.
Scape wheel 30 teeth.
Diameter 1.75 inches for the pitch circumference.
The number of arms or crosses to be put in a wheel is usually decided
by the taste of the person making the clock. There is, however, another
view of the subject, which I would like to mention. With the same
weight of metal a wheel will be stronger with six arms than with four
or five, and as lightness, combined with strength, should be the object
aimed at in making wheels, I prefer six arms to four or five for the
wheels of a regulator.
Figs. 157 and 158 are front and side elevations of the proposed
regulator movement, showing the size and position of the wheels, the
size of the frames, the positions of the pillars, dial feet, etc. The
dotted large circular lines on Fig. 157 show the position the hour,
minutes, and seconds circles will occupy on the dial. According to
the ordinary rules of drawing, the dotted lines would infer that the
movement is in front of the dial, and perhaps it may be necessary
to explain that in the present instance these lines are made dotted
solely with the view of making the diagram more distinct, and are not
intended to represent the dial to be at the back of the movement. A is
the barrel, B is the great wheel, which turns once in twelve hours; C
is the hour wheel, which works into the great wheel, and also turns
once in twelve hours; D is the center wheel, which turns once in an
hour, and carries the minute hand; E is the third wheel, and F is the
scape wheel, which turns once in a minute and carries the seconds
hand; G is the pallets; H the pillars, and I is the dial feet; J is
the maintaining power click, and K shows the position of the cord.
Neither the hour or great wheels project over the edge of the frame,
and it will be observed that a clock of this arrangement is remarkable
for its simplicity, having only four wheels and three pinions, with
the addition of the scape wheel and the barrel ratchets. There are no
motion or dial wheels, the wheel C turning once in 12 hours, carrying
the hour hand. The size and shape of the frames and the position of the
pillars, allows the dial feet to be placed so that the screws which
hold the dial will appear in symmetrical positions on the dial.
Formerly the term “astronomical” was applied to clocks which indicated
the motions and times of the earth, moon, and other celestial bodies,
but at present we may take it as indicating such as are used in
astronomical observatories. In all essential particulars they are
the same as first-class watchmakers’ regulators, the most obvious
departure being that the hour hand is made to revolve only once a day,
the dial being divided into twenty-four hours. This only requires an
intermediate wheel and pinion in the motion work, and, assuming the
hour hand to be driven from the center arbor, there will be the usual
hour and minute wheels and cannon pinion. The most suitable ratio for
these are ¼ and ⅙ = ¹/₂₄, and, as any numbers, being multiples, may be
used, they may as well be selected so as to be cut with the same tools
as the wheels of the train. Two pinions of 20 and wheels of 80 and 120
suit very well; 20 ÷ 80 and 20 ÷ 120 = ²⁰/₈₀ × ²⁰/₁₂₀ = ⁴⁰⁰/₉₆₀₀ =
¹/₂₄, and the hands will both go in the same direction.
Some astronomical clocks show mean solar, and others sidereal time;
this requires no structural alteration, merely a little shortening of
the pendulum in the latter case, which can be done with the regulating
nut.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
A
Addendum, 202, 218, 220
Angular Motion, 103, 112
Automatic Pinion Cutter, 245, 247
“ “ Drill, 249
“ Wheel and Pinion Cutter, 254
C
Calendar, Simple, 351
“ Perpetual, 354, 356, 358
Center Distances, 105, 111, 202
Chimes, Laying out, 370, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425
Chimes Westminster, 372
Click, Position of, 288
Cock, 482
Compensated Rod, Steel and Zinc, 42
Counter-poising Hands, 443
Count hook, Position, of, 305
Count Wheel Striking Train, 302, 303, 311, 314, 315, 316, 322, 324
Cuckoo Bellows and Pipe, 328
D
Dedendum, 202
Dial Work, 295
Diameters of Wheels, Getting, 196
E
Eight-day Count Wheel, Time and Striking Trains, 299, 309
Eight-day Snail Strike, 342
Electric Chimes, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425
Electric Clocks, Pendulum Driven, 377, 379, 381, 382
Electric Clocks, Weight Driven, 394, 395, 396, 398
Epicycloid, 206, 219, 239
Escape Wheel, Cutting, 122, 124
“ “ Drawing to fit Pallets, 120
Escapement, Anchor, 142, 144, 145, 146, 147
“ Brocot’s Visible, 127, 129
“ Cylinder, 164, 165, 166, 167, 177, 179, 181, 183
“ Dead Beat, 117, 118
“ Drum, 148
“ Gravity, 152, 154, 157, 159, 161
“ Pin, 185, 194
“ Pin Wheel, 136, 137
“ Recoil, 142, 144, 145, 146, 147
“ to draw the, 114
F
Friction Springs, 294
G
Grandfather clocks, 352
H
Hypocycloid, 206
K
Keyhole Plates, 289
L
Lever Escapement for Clocks, 193
Levers, the Elements of, 99, 100, 101
M
Maintaining Powers, 285, 286, 287, 291
P
Pallets, Drawing, 116
Pendulum Brackets, 32
“ Mercurial, 67, 71, 75
“ Torsion, 92, 93, 94, 95
“ Oscillation of, 10, 14, 21
“ Rieffler, 50, 75
Perpetual Calendar Clocks, 354, 356, 358
“ Brocot, 360, 362, 363, 364, 366
Pinion Drill, 251
Pitch Diameter, 202, 218, 219, 220, 239
Plate, Jeweling, 475, 476
Posts, 480
Precision Clock Room, 452
Q
Quarter Chiming Snail Trains, 341
Quail and Cuckoo Train, 322, 324
R
Rack, Division of, 335
Regulator Trains, 465, 467, 479
Rounding-Up Wheels, 220, 224
S
Secondary Dials, 416
Self Winding Clocks, 400, 401, 404, 406, 408, 412
Ship’s Bell Train, 314, 315, 316
Slide Gauge Lathe, 241
“ “ Tools, 243
Snail, Laying Out, 337
“ Striking Trains, 333, 342, 345, 346
Suspension Springs, 84
Synchronizing Clocks, 412, 415
W
Wheel Cutting Engine, 255
Wiring Systems, 386, 388
Wood Rod and Lead Bob, 33
Z
Zinc Bob and Wood Rod, 331
INDEX.
A
Addendum, 202
Air, Pressure of, 20
Aluminum, Compensation with, 48
Anchor Escapement, 141
Angular Measurement, Peculiarities of, 102
Apparent Time, 348
Arbors, Polishing Steel, 232
“ Straightening Bent, 231
Arc of Escapement, 93, 109, 115, 127, 138, 145, 153, 164, 186, 469
Armatures, Adjustment of, 389, 409
Astronomical Clocks, 493
“ Day, 348
Auxiliary Weights, 37
B
Balance, Vibrations of, 180
Banking, 90, 156, 160, 170, 176
Barometric Error, 20
Barrels, 244, 267, 465, 485
“ Chiming, 370
Batteries, 380
“ Dating, 392
“ Grading, 384
“ Making, 383
“ Position of, 385
“ Wiring, Methods of, 385
Beat, to put a Clock in, 89
Bells, 369
“ Ships, 315
Brocot’s Calendar, 359
“ Visible Escapement, 127, 128
Bushing, 476
C
Cables, Clock, 269
“ Lengths of, 271
Calculations of Weights, 57
Calendars, 347
“ Brocot’s, 359
“ Gregorian, 349
“ Julian, 349
“ Perpetual, 353
“ Simple, 350
Carillons, 372
Case Friction, 448
“ Temperature, 450
Cases, 446
“ Gilding, 459
“ Marble, 460
“ “ to Polish, 461
“ Polishing, 457
“ Precision Clock, 447
“ Regulator, 463
“ Restoring old, 455
Cement for Marble, 460
“ for Dials, 438
Center Distances, 110, 200
“ of Gravity, 18
“ of Oscillation, 13
“ Springs, 96, 294
Chain Drives, 271
Cheap Clocks, to clean, 187
Chime Barrels, to mark, 371
Chimes, 339, 370
“ Cambridge, 372
“ Carillon, 372
“ Electric, 420
“ Tubular, 374, 422
Circle, Pitch, 202
Circular Error, 21
“ Pitch, 215
Cleaning Cheap Clocks, 187
Clocks, Astronomical, 493
“ Cuckoo, 319, 321
“ Designing, 8
“ Four-hundred day, 91
Clocks, Glass of, 462
“ Repeating, 332
“ Room, 452
Cock, 482
Collets, 234
Compensated Pendulum Rods, 40
“ Rod, Flat, 41
“ Rods, Tubular, 48
Compensation, 450
Compensating Pendulums, 23
“ “ Bracket for, 32
Compensating Pendulums, Principles of Construction, 27
Compensating Pendulums with shot, 36
Compensating Pendulums, Wood Rod and Lead Bob, 32
Compensation Pendulums, Wood Rod and Zinc Bob, 28
Compensation Pendulums, Aluminum, 48
Cones, Rusting of, 190
Construction of Dials, 426
Contacts, Dial, 423, 425
“ Electric, 396
Contrate Wheel, 171, 375
Conversion, Table of, 18
Cords, 268
“ Lengths of, 270
Count Hook, 301, 304, 310
“ Wheel, 301, 304, 315
“ “ Train, 300
Crown Wheel, 171
Crutches, 87, 472
Cuckoo, Adjustments of, 326
“ Bellows, 328
“ Clock, Names of Parts, 323
“ Motion Work, 296
“ Repairing, 327
Cutters for Clock Trains, 196
“ Setting, 197
Cycloid, 21
Cylinder Clocks, Examination of, 171
Cylinder, End Shake, 170
“ “ Proportion of, 149
“ Side Shake, 167
“ Teeth, Shape of, 183
Cylinders, Weight of, 37
D
Day, Astronomical, 348
“ Sidereal, 348
“ Solar, 348
Dedendum, 202
Dennison Escapement, 150
Depolarizers, 381
Depthing, 200
“ Tool, 477
Designing Clocks, 8
Detached Lever Escapement, 184
Dials, Construction of, 426
“ Contacts, 423, 425
“ Enamel for, 431
“ Phosphorescent, 437
“ Repairing, 432, 438
“ Secondary, 417
“ to Clean, 436
“ “ Silver, 434
“ Varnish for, 438
Distances, Center, 200
Drawings, to read, 98
Draw of Teeth, 194
Drill, Pinion, 249, 251
Drop, 107
E
Effect of Temperature, 62
Eight Day Trains, 299
Electric Chimes, 420
“ Clocks, 376
“ “ Synchronizing, 400, 413
“ Contacts, 396
Elements, Mechanical, 98
Enamel for Dials, 431
End Shake, of Cylinder, 170, 175
End Stones, 477
Epicycloid, 206
Equation of Time, 365
Error, Barometric, 20
“ Circular, 21
“ Temperature, 22
Escape Wheel, Sizes of, 109, 133, 155, 164
“ “ To make, 109, 120, 135, 138, 150, 155, 162, 164
Escapement, Brocot’s, 127, 128
“ Cylinder, 163
“ Dennison, 150
“ Detached Lever, 184
“ Drum, 148
“ Graham, 109
“ Gravity, 150, 161
“ Le Paute’s Pin Wheel, 135
“ Pin, 185, 193
“ Recoil, 141
“ To draw Graham, 113
“ “ Pin Wheel, 138
“ “ Gravity, 152
“ Western Clock Mfg. Co., 193
Examination of Cylinders, 171
Expansion of Metals, 22
F
Fan, 308, 326
Fly for Gravity Escapement, 158
Frames, Making, 261
“ Thickness of, 474
Four-hundred Day Clocks, 91
Friction, Disengaging, 203
“ Engaging, 203
“ of Teeth, 132
“ Springs, 294
G
Gathering Pallet, 338, 344
Gilding, 459
Gong Wires, 369
Graham Escapement, 109, 467
Gravity, Center of, 18
“ Escapement, 150
Gregorian Calendar, 349
H
Half Hour Striking Work, 334, 342, 345
Hammers, 367
“ Hardening, 198, 480, 482
“ Springs, 368
“ Tail, 298, 301
Hands, 439
“ Proportions of, 440
“ To Balance, 442
“ To Blue, 444
Hour Rack, 335
“ Snail, 296, 334
“ Strike, 342
“ Wheel, 96, 293, 296, 325
Hypocycloid Curves, 206
I
Iron, Expansion of, 57
Information, Need for, 3
Isochronism, 469
J
Jeweling, 475, 477
Jewels, Pallet, 126
Julian Calendar, 349
L
Lantern Pinions, 235
Lathe, Slide Gauge, 241, 243, 246
Laws of Pendulums, 11
Lead, 22, 32
Leap Year, 349
Length of Pivots, 199
Le Paute’s Escapement, 135
Leverage of Wheels, 99
Lift, 106
Lifting Cam, 301, 331
“ Piece, 331
“ Planes, 116
“ Pins, 186
Lock, 107
Locking Hook, 301
Losing Time, 192
Lunation, 365
M
Magnets, Arrangement of, 378, 386, 389, 395, 401, 406
Mainsprings, 272, 274, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281, 282
“ Breakage of, 281
“ Buckled, 277
“ Cleaning, 277
“ Clock, 288
“ Coil Friction, 277
“ Fusee, 279
“ Importance of Cleaning, 274
“ Length of, 280
“ Loss of Power, 274
“ Maintaining Power, 285, 291
“ Oiling, 278
“ Stop Works, 282
Maintaining Powers, 285
Mean Apparent Time, 348
Mean Time, 348
Measuring Wheels, 195
Measurement, Angular, 102
Mechanical Elements, 98
Mercurial Pendulums, 53, 60, 69
“ “ For Tower Clocks, 65
Mercury, 53, 56, 66, 70
Metals, Expansion of, 22
“ Weight of, 37
Millimeters Compared with Inches, 18
Minute Jumpers, 417
“ Wheels, 96, 293, 296, 325
Month Clocks, 260
“ Sidereal, 349
“ Synodic, 350
Moon, Phases of, 365
“ Train, 365
Motion Work, 96, 293, 296, 325
N
Need for Information, 3
Numbers, Conversion of, 201
Nut, Rating, 42, 50, 66
O
Oiling Cables, 269
Oscillation, Center of, 13
Overbanking, 90, 156, 160, 170, 176
P
Pallet Jewels, 126
Pallets, 106, 115, 121, 126, 130, 135, 139,
141, 144, 149, 153, 186, 193, 470
Pallets, To make, 119, 126
Pendulum, Isochronous, 470
“ Lengths, Table of, 10, 16
“ Rieffler, 49, 75
“ Rods, 262
“ “ Compensated, 40
“ Compensating, 23
“ Electric Driven, 376
“ Laws of, 11
“ Mercurial, 53, 60, 69
“ Sidereal, 493
“ Torsion, 91
Perpetual Calendar, 353
Phases of the Moon, 365
Pillars, Making, 240
Pinion Drill, Automatic, 249, 251
“ Making, 227, 252
“ “ Machine, Automatic, 245, 247
“ Canon, 293, 294, 295
“ Depthing, 206, 210, 217
“ Facing, 233
“ Hardening, 229
“ Lantern, 235
“ Tempering, 230
“ To Draw, 206
Pin Escapement, 185, 193
“ Wheels, 297, 301, 327
“ “ Escapement, 135
“ “ “ To Draw, 138
Pitch, Addendum, 216
“ Circle, 202
“ Circular, 215
“ Diametral, 216
Pivots, 488
“ Length of, 199
“ Proportions of, 167, 173, 199, 474
“ Side Shake, 199
Planes, Lifting, 116
Plates, Clock, 198
“ Thickness of, 474
Poising Balance Staffs, 189, 190
Polishing Steel Arbors, 232
Posts, Clock, 478
Power, 264, 265, 266, 267
“ Maintaining, 285
Putting in Beat, 89
R
Rack, Division of, 335
“ Striking Work, 331
Ratchet, 288
Rating Nut, 42, 50, 66
“ With Shot, 90
Reading Drawings, 98
Repeating Clocks, 332
Recoil Escapement, 141
Regulation, 79
Regulator Trains, 492
Regulators, Making, 463
Repairing Dials, 432, 438
Resistance Spools, 388
Rieffler Pendulum, 49, 75
Rounding-Up, 174, 221, 223
“ “ Rules for, 226
Run, 108
Rusting of Cones, 190
S
Screws, Clock, 483
Secondary Dials, 417
Self-winding Clocks, 376
Ship Bells, Striking, 313
Shot, Rating with, 90
Sidereal Day, 348
“ Month, 349
“ Pendulums, 493
“ Year, 349
Side Shake, Cylinder, 167
“ “ For Pivots, 199
Silvering Dials, 434
Simple Calendar, 350
Sizes of Teeth, 211, 213, 237
“ “ Wheels, 201
Slide Gauge Lathe, 241, 243, 244
Snail, 296, 336
“ Division of, 337
“ French System, 342
“ Quarter Striking Work, 339
“ Striking Work, 330, 340
Solar Day, 348
Sparking, to Prevent, 386
Springs, Center, 294
“ Clock, 273, 288, 307
“ Friction, 294
“ Hammer, 368
“ Main, 272, 273, 274, 277, 278, 279, 280, 282, 307
Squares, Milling, 261
Standards, Importance of, 26
Star Wheel, 332, 335
Steel, Expansion of, 57
Stop Works, 282
Straightening Bent Arbors, 231
Striking from Center Arbor, 298
“ To Correct, 306, 307
“ Trains, 297, 308, 313, 323, 330
“ “ Half Hour, 298, 308, 313
“ “ Setting Up, 307, 310, 339
“ “ To Calculate, 297
“ “ Rack, 331
“ Work, Repeating, 332
“ “ Snail, 330, 340
Supports, Pendulum, 86
Suspension, 81, 93
“ Springs, 82, 93
Synchronizing, 400, 413
Synodic Month, 350
T
Table, Lengths of Pendulum, 12, 16, 17, 34, 258
“ of Expansions, 30
“ Inches, Millimeters and French Lines, 18
“ “ Time Trains, 258, 339, 340, 492
“ “ Weights and Metals, 37
Tangent, 104
Teeth, Friction of, 132
“ Shape of Cylinder, 183
“ Shapes of, 203
“ Sizes of, 211, 213, 237
Temperature, Effect of, 62
“ Error, 22
Tempering, 229
Time, Apparent, 348
“ Equation of, 365
“ Losing, 192
“ Mean, 348
To Draw Anchor Escapement, 143, 145, 147
Top Weights, 39
Torsion Pendulums, 91
Tower Clock, Cables, 269
“ “ Dials, Sizes of, 426
“ “ Gravity Escapement for, 150
“ “ Hands, 442
“ “ Maintaining Powers, 285, 291
“ “ Motion Work, 295
“ “ Pendulums, 65
“ “ Stop Works, 287
“ “ Suspension, 65
“ “ Time Trains, 258
Trains, 330
“ Electric, 389
“ Regulator, 492
“ Table of, 258
“ To Calculate, 257, 264, 297
Tropical Year, 348
Tubular Chimes, 374, 422
Turning Tools, 481
V
Varnish for Dials, 438
“ Remover, 456
Vibrations of Balance, 180
W
Warning, 306, 312
“ Pin, 306, 312
“ Wheel, 306, 312
Weight Cords, 268
Weight of Lead, Zinc and Cast Iron Cylinders, 37
Weights, 265, 319
“ Auxiliary, 37
“ Calculations of, 27
“ Top, 39
Wheel Contrate, 171, 375
“ Crown, 171
“ Hour, 296
“ Cutting, 254
“ Leverage of, 99
“ Measuring, 195
“ Minute, 96, 293, 296, 325
“ Sizes of, 201, 490
“ Stamping, 256
“ Star, 332, 335
“ Stretching, 226
Wires, Gong, 369
Y
Year, 348
“ Leap, 349
“ Sidereal, 349
“ Tropical, 348
Z
Zinc, 54
Big Ben
[Illustration]
BIG BEN is the first and only alarm sold exclusively
to jewelers. He is without exception the finest
sleepmeter made—the best looking, the best built,
the best running.
Big Ben is a beautiful thin model alarm clock
standing 7 inches tall and mounted in a reinforced
triple plated case. He is fitted with big strong easy
winding keys, clean cut heavy hands and a large open
winsome dial, distinctly visible across the largest room.
Big Ben rings just when you want and either way
you want, intermittently for fifteen minutes,
continuously for ten, and he rings with a jolly
full-tone ring that will arouse the drowsiest sleeper.
Big Ben is rigidly inspected, six days factory timed
and tested. He works only for jewelers and then only
for certain jewelers—those that agree to sell him
for not less than $2.50.
We pay his railroad fare on all orders for a dozen or
more, we brand him with your name in lots of 24.
Height 7 inches. Dial 4½ inches. Intermittent or Long Alarm.
Dealers’ names printed free on dials in lots of 24.
Freight allowed on orders for one dozen or more.
Western Clock Mfg. Co.
New York La Salle, Illinois Chicago
HOROLOGICAL DEPARTMENT—Bradley Polytechnic Institute
[Illustration]
THIS entire building used exclusively for instruction in
watchwork, jewelry, engraving and optics, is thoroughly
equipped with all modern tools for use in connection with
the work as required in any up-to-date jewelry store.
Competent instructors as heads of each department and several
assistants, so that all may be kept busy. ¶ If you would
like to get all or any one of the branches mentioned above,
it will pay you to investigate Bradley. With our increased
facilities we can take care of all who wish to come. ¶ Don’t
put off till tomorrow or next week the sending of a post card
addressed to HOROLOGICAL, Dept. A., Peoria, Ill., asking for
one of our latest books telling all about Modern Methods as
applied at this truly great institution.
SELF WINDING CLOCK CO.
NEW YORK
Self Winding Synchronized Clocks,
Primary and Secondary Clock Systems,
for
Railroads, Public and Office Buildings,
Hotels, Universities, Colleges,
Schools and Private Residences.
Self Winding Program Instruments,
Jewelers’ Regulators,
Bank Clocks,
Tower, Post and Bracket Clocks.
Making Clocks to Architects’ designs
a specialty.
Hourly signals of correction from the U. S.
Observatory at Washington, D. C. over the
lines of the Western Union Telegraph Co.
[Illustration]
=MEYER= JEWELRY CO.
Kansas City :: Mo.
For
Rush
Orders
Tools, Materials
_and_ Optical Goods
=MEYER= JEWELRY CO.
Kansas City :: Mo.
[Illustration]
In 1854
Waltham Watches
awakened Europe to the fact that
the American method of manufacturing
produces the best watches. Since that
time the burden of proof has been
successfully carried by =17,000,000
WALTHAM WATCHES= all representing the
highest stage of the watchmakers’ art.
Howard Clocks
Are modern in the sense
that they are the best
timekeepers in the world
although we have been
making them since 1842,
when our business was
established by Edward
Howard. We guarantee
satisfaction and respectfully
solicit your business.
The =E. Howard Clock Co.=
BOSTON, NEW YORK AND CHICAGO
Makers of Clocks but only of the highest grade
in their respective lines
Jewelers’ regulators, electric
clocks, house and office clocks,
locomotive and engine room
clocks, marine clocks, programme
clocks, post or side
walk clocks, tower clocks,
watchman clocks, employees’
time recorders.
┌ $5
Ingersoll-Trenton —┤ to
The Best Seven Jewel Watch └ $15
GUARANTEED
[Illustration] The first watch guarantee
ever issued was that placed on
the cheapest watch ever made—the
Dollar Watch—nineteen
years ago.
For those nineteen years
while selling nearly nineteen
million Ingersoll watches, we
have been asking: “Why are
_expensive_, _jeweled_ watches not
guaranteed?”
The Ingersoll-Trenton is the first and only [Illustration]
high grade 7-jewel watch made complete and
cased in one factory; and therefore, the only
one that can be guaranteed by its makers;
others are assembled from movements made in
one factory and cases from another, by the
dealer, often a competent jeweler, but often,
too, without facilities such as the adjusting and
timing _systems_ existing in our complete
_watch factory_.
The “I-T” has all features of the most recent,
costly watches, which secure accuracy.
“I-T” gold-filled cases contain gold enough to
outlive their guarantees. Sold only through
_responsible_ jewelers, who buy direct. If not
on sale in your town we will send, prepaid express,
on receipt of price.
INGERSOLL WATCHES
For seventeen years there has been but one standard
in everyday watches; “Ingersolls” have popularized
the very use of watches. One friend says, “They
have made the dollar famous.” They have never been
so worthy of their great reputation as to-day. Fully
guaranteed. They include; The Dollar Watch; the
“Eclipse” at $1.50; the new thin model “Junior” at
$2.00; and the “Midget” ladies’ size at $2.00. Sold
by 60,000 dealers or post-paid by us.
ROBERT H. INGERSOLL & BRO.
New York Chicago London San Francisco
THE GREAT
AMERICAN
CATALOGUE
Have you added this Salesman to
your selling force?
Purchasing Goods from the Great
American Catalogue insures prestige
and the confidence your customers
will bestow upon you will be apparent
in increased patronage.
Our Catalogue meets with cordial
approbation of old stand-by customers
who are in a position to judge of the
meritorious results obtained through
constant use, as the best purchasing
medium.
Please permit us to send you a copy.
The Oskamp-Nolting Co.
No. 411-413-415-417 ELM ST.
Cincinnati :: :: :: Ohio.
MOSELEY
[Illustration]
Made Continuously Imitated—but
for over 30 years NEVER EQUALED
The Standard of Excellence
=Nothing= is overlooked in their manufacture
and =no expense= is spared to make them RIGHT.
The =Genuine= Moseley Lathe of to-day is the
result of years of painstaking, systematic and
skilled endeavor to satisfy the exacting requirements
of the most critical and experienced workmen.
Moseley Chucks are of the best quality, and are
made in all sizes; covering every need of the
Watchmaker and Repairer. These Chucks and Lathes
were manufactured by us for years under the direct
supervision of CHAS. S. MOSELEY, the inventor of the
“Split Chuck” and “Draw-n-Spindle.”
Moseley Lathes and Attachments, with plenty of
Moseley Chucks are the =secret= of =rapid=
and =accurate= work. They increase your earning
power by enabling you to do more work in a day. As
=an investment= they pay =big dividends=.
Write your JOBBER for the NEW MOSELEY
CATALOG—INSTRUCTION—REFERENCE BOOK No. 11
“YOU NEED IT EVERY DAY.”
“THERE’S NO LATHE LIKE THE =MOSELEY=”
=Clock Tools and Clock Materials
form an important and extensive
item of stock in our Tool and
Material Department, at=
PRICES THAT DEFY COMPETITION
[Illustration]
No. 2979. Clock Main Spring Winder.
Nickel plated, $0.50
In Clock Springs, we keep the best polished only;
our stock consisting of all the most desirable widths
on the market.
If you do not possess our large Tool and Material
Catalogue, kindly send us your business card and
procure one.
We can save you time, money and annoyance; we are
anxious to make your acquaintance, as we treat our
customers with the utmost courtesy and attention.
A trial order solicited.
=Otto Young & Co.=
=Wholesale Jewelers and Importers and Jobbers
Diamonds, Watches, Clocks, Jewelry, Tools,
Materials and Optical Goods.=
=Heyworth Building, Chicago=
* * * * * *
Transcriber’s note:
Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs.
Typographical errors have been silently corrected.
The “TABLE OF CONTENTS” was added by the transcriber. It was not part
of the original text.