BACK AGAIN.
As next morning I crossed the Clyde, and took my seat in a crowded and
early train, it seemed to me that rain was not far off, and that at
Edinburgh Royalty might be favoured with a sight of what in England is
known as Scotch mist. Nor were my forebodings wrong. The modern Athens
was under a cloud, and many were the heavy-hearted who had come from far
and near to do honour to the day. The Glasgow men have but a poor
opinion of the citizens of Edinburgh. They took a very unfavourable view
of the matter. If Edinburgh desired to have a statue of Albert the Good,
why not? If the Queen liked to be present at its inauguration, there was
no harm in that; if there were a little fuller ceremonial on the
occasion, it was only what was to be expected; but that Edinburgh should
hasten to wash her statues and decorate her streets; that she should
clean up her shop-fronts, and drape her balconies; that she should devote
a day to holiday-making; that she should go to the expense of Venetian
masts and scarlet cloth--in short, that in this way Edinburgh should
attempt to rival a London Lord Mayor's Show, was one of those things no
Glasgow fellow could understand.
And I own at first sight there seemed to be a good deal in the Glasgow
criticism. Few cities have so fair a site as the noble metropolis of our
northern brethren; few cities less require ornamentation. Hers
emphatically is that beauty which unadorned is adorned the most. To
stand in Princes Street, with the castle frowning on you on one side, and
with the Calton Hill in front; to loiter under the fair memorial to Sir
Walter Scott (by the side of which I am pleased to see a statue of
Livingstone has just been placed); to look from the bridge which connects
the New Town with the Old--on the distant hills and the blue sea
beyond--is a pleasure in itself. With its far-reaching associations,
with its memories of Wilson and Brougham, and Jeffery and Walter Scott,
with its dark churches, in which John Knox thundered away at the fair and
frail Mary, with its ancient palaces grim and venerable with stirring
romance or startling crime, it seemed almost profane to send for the
upholsterer, and to bid him deck out the streets and squares with gaudy
colours and gay flowers. When on Thursday the morning opened cloudily on
the scene, it seemed as if all this preparation had been thrown away; and
bright eyes were for awhile dark and sad, and refusing to be comforted.
However, the thing went on, nevertheless. The crowd turned out into the
streets, the railways brought their tens of thousands from far and near;
balconies were full, and all the windows; and the sight was one such as
has not feasted the eyes of the oldest inhabitant for many a year. There
were the soldiers to line the streets, there were the archers to guard
the dais, there were the Town Council and Lord Provost in their scarlet
robes, there were the men whom Edinburgh delights to honour all before
them, and, above all, the Duke of Connaught, the Princess Beatrice,
Prince Leopold, Brown--the far-famed Highlander--and the Queen. The
ceremony itself was not long. When Charlotte Square was reached, Her
Majesty took the place assigned to her, and the work was speedily
performed. As Her Majesty went back by Princes Street, an additional
interest was created, and Princes Street looked very well; its hotels and
fashionable shops rejoiced in crimson and yellow banners, and the Walter
Scott memorial even broke out in honour of the day. It was decorated
with flags, which waved gaily in the sun--for the sun did come out, after
all. But Princes Street was not the chief route. It was down George
Street that Royalty drove, and it was there that the efforts of the
decorative artist had been most effective. Some of them were very
beautiful, and full of taste; but the lettering was rather small. Nor
did the inscriptions display much ingenuity. They were mostly
"Welcomes," or invitations to "Come again." It was the advertising
tradesmen who were most ingenious in that way, and it was in the papers
that their efforts appeared. As, for instance, an enterprising shoemaker
writes:--
"Welcome, Victoria! Queen of Scottish hearts!
In many a breast the loyal impulse starts"--
and then finishes with a recommendation of his boots and shoes. As a
crowd, also, it must be noted that the mob was far graver than a London
one, and that little attempt was made either to relieve the tedium of
waiting the arrival of the procession, or to turn a penny by the sale of
the various articles which seem invariably to be required by a London
mob. The boys who sell the evening papers, one would have thought, would
have had correct programmes of the procession, and portraits of the Queen
and Prince Albert to dispose of. As it was, all that was hawked about
was an engraving of the statue itself.
As to the statue, it will be one of the many for which Edinburgh is
famous, and at present, as the latest, is considered one of the best. It
is in a good position in Charlotte Square--the finest of the Edinburgh
squares--and stands by itself. Afar off is William Pitt; and, further
off still, unfortunately for the morals of Albert the Good, who is placed
just by, is George the Magnificent, swaggering in his cloak, in tipsy
gravity, as it were; and at St. Andrew's Square, at the other end,
proudly towers above all the Melville Monument. That was utilised on the
day in question in an admirable manner--Venetian masts were erected at
the end of the grass-plat which surrounds it. Ropes rich with bunting
were suspended between them and the statue, which was gaily decked with
flags. It was in this neighbourhood, and as you went on to Holyrood,
that the ornaments were of the richest character. Of the sixty designs
submitted to the committee, the preference was given to that of Mr. John
Steell, R.S.A., who was subsequently knighted by Her Majesty. It was on
the occasion of the great Volunteer review in the Queen's Park, in 1861,
that Prince Albert was seen by the largest number of Scotch people; and
it has evidently been the aim of the artist to represent him as he was
then--in his uniform of field-marshal, with his cocked hat in his right
hand, while he holds the reins in his left. The princely rank of the
wearer is indicated by an order on the left breast. In order that the
representation might be as perfect as possible, Her Majesty lent the
artist the very uniform worn on the occasion referred to. The modelling
of the busts was also done at Windsor Castle, under Royal supervision.
The horse was modelled from one lent by the Duke of Buccleugh. On the
pedestal are bas-reliefs indicative of the character and pursuits of His
Royal Highness. On one side his marriage is represented; on another his
visit to the International Exhibition. Again we see him peacefully happy
at home in the bosom of his family; then again as a rewarder of the merit
he was ever anxious to discover and befriend. In one part of the design
are quotations from the Prince's speeches, and classical emblems; rank
and wealth and talent, in all phases of society, down to the very lowest,
are represented as uniting to do honour to the dead. In this varied work
Mr. Steell was assisted, at his own request, by Mr. William Brodie, Mr.
Clark Stanton, and the late Mr. MacCallum, whose unfinished work was
completed by Mr. Stevenson. The equestrian figure is upwards of fourteen
feet high, and weighs about eight tons. The pedestal is of five blocks
of Peterhead granite. According to a contemporary, the Queen's emotion
was manifest when the statue was unveiled. The Scotch are a cautious
people, and are very slow in expressing an opinion on the memorial. All
I can say is, that I prefer it very much to that statue at the
commencement of the Holborn Viaduct, on which Mr. Meeking's young men
look down every day.
It was on the next day that you saw the statue and the preparations to
the most advantage, and such seemed to be the opinion of all Edinburgh
and the surrounding country. A cloudless sky and an Indian sun tinted
everything with gold, and a smart breeze set all the flags of the
Venetian masts waving all along the line in a way at once effective and
bewildering. Fashionable people filled up the streets, dashing equipages
drove rapidly past, shops were crammed, waiters at the hotels were tired
to death. I never saw so many hungry Scots as I did at a celebrated
restaurant, and a hungry Scot is not a pleasant sight; and at the railway
station I question whether half the people got into their right carriages
after all. Porters and guards seemed alike confused; and the people
walked up and down the platform of the Waverley Station as sheep without
a shepherd. However, wearied and hungry and bewildered as they were,
they had had a day's pleasure, and that was enough.
As for myself I took the Waverley route, and gliding past the ruins of
Craig Millar Castle--the prison-house of James the Fifth, and the
favourite residence of Queen Mary--and vainly trying to catch a view of
Abbotsford, of which one can see but the waving woods, was gratified with
a glimpse of Melrose, where rests the heart of Bruce, which the Douglas
had vainly striven to carry to Palestine. All round me are names and
places connected with border tradition and song. Dryburgh Abbey is not
far off, nor Hazeldean, nor Minto House. Passing along the banks of the
Teviot, by the frowning heights of Rubertslaw on the left, I reach
Hawick, whose history abounds in heroic tale and legendary lore, although
the present town is now only known as an important and flourishing
emporium of the woollen manufactures. Passing up the vale of the
Slitrig, famous in legendary story, we come to Stobs Castle and
Branxholme House, celebrated in the "Lay of the Last Minstrel." Close by
is Hermitage Castle, founded by Comyn, Earl of Monteith, where Lord de
Soulis was boiled as a reputed sorcerer at a Druidical spot, named the
Nine Stane Rig, at the head of the glen. At Kershope Foot the railway,
having passed through the land of the Armstrongs, renowned in border
warfare, enters England. Once more I am at home, thankful to have seen
so much of beauty and blessedness, of wonders in heaven above, and on the
earth beneath, and in the waters underneath the earth; thankful also for
improved health and power of work acquired by yachting among the islands
of the Western Coast.
MIDLAND RAILWAY.
* * * * *
Improved and Accelerated Service of
NEW EXPRESS TRAINS
BETWEEN
ENGLAND & SCOTLAND
BY THE
SETTLE AND CARLISLE ROUTE.
The SUMMER SERVICE of EXPRESS TRAINS between LONDON (St. Pancras) and
SCOTLAND is now in operation, and Express Trains leave St. Pancras for
Scotland at 5.15 and 10.30 a.m., and at 8.0 and 9.15 p.m. on Week-Days,
and at 9.15 p.m. only on Sundays.
A new NIGHT EXPRESS TRAIN now leaves St. Pancras for Edinburgh and Perth
at 8 p.m. on Week-Days, arriving at Perth at 8.40 a.m., in connection
with Trains leaving Perth for Montrose and Aberdeen at 9.20 a.m., and for
Inverness and Stations on the Highland Railway at 9.30 a.m.
A new Night Express in connection with the Train leaving Inverness at
12.40 p.m., Aberdeen at 4.5 p.m., and Dundee at 6.30 p.m., leaves Perth
at 7.25 p.m., and Edinburgh at 10.30 p.m. on Week-Days, arriving at St.
Pancras at 8.30 a.m.
A PULLMAN SLEEPING CAR is run between ST. PANCRAS and PERTH in each
direction by these Trains.
Pullman Sleeping Cars are also run from St. Pancras to Edinburgh and
Glasgow by the Night Express leaving London at 9.15 p.m.; and from
Edinburgh and Glasgow to St. Pancras by the Express leaving Edinburgh at
9.20 p.m., and Glasgow at 9.15 p.m. on Week-Days and Sundays. Pullman
Drawing-Room Cars are run between the same places by the Day Express
Trains leaving St. Pancras for Edinburgh and Glasgow at 10.30 a.m., and
Glasgow at 10.15 a.m., and Edinburgh at 10.30 a.m. for St. Pancras.
These Cars are well ventilated, fitted with Lavatory, &c., accompanied by
a special attendant, and are _unequalled for comfort and convenience_ in
travelling.
The 9.15 p.m. Express from St. Pancras reaches Greenock in ample time for
passengers to join the "Iona" steamer.
Tourist Tickets, available for two months, are issued from St. Pancras
and all principal stations on the Midland Railway to Edinburgh, Glasgow,
Greenock, Oban (by "Iona" steamer from Greenock), and other places of
tourist resort in all parts of Scotland.
The Passenger Fares and the Rates for Horses and Carriages between
stations in England and stations in Scotland have been revised and
considerably reduced by the opening of the Midland Company's Settle and
Carlisle Route.
Guards in charge of the Through Luggage and of Passengers travelling
between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow by the Day and Night Express
Trains in each direction.
_Derby_, _August_, 1877.
JAMES ALLPORT, _General Manager_.
* * * * *
GLASGOW and the HIGHLANDS.
* * * * *
THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS,
(_Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals_)
Iona, Linnet, Islay,
Chevalier, Cygnet, Clydesdale,
Gondolier, Plover, Clansman,
Mountaineer, Staffa, Lochawe,
Pioneer, Glencoe, Lochiel,
Glengarry, Inverary Castle, Lochness,
and Queen of the Lake,
Sail during the season for Islay, Oban, Fort-William, Inverness, Staffa,
Iona, Lochawe, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool,
Lochinver, and Stornoway; affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting
the magnificent scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch
Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona.
Time Bill with Maps free by post on application to DAVID HUTCHESON & CO.,
119, Hope-street, Glasgow.