have been effectually arrested; and it is undergoing such necessary
changes (at the cost of the present Duke) as are dictated by judgment
and good sense. The church occupies an elevated position north of the
town, and nearly opposite the principal entrance into the Castle. Its
exterior has many traces of antiquity, and not a few remains of early
beauty. Age, and the slovenly hands of stonemasons, have, however,
materially injured its venerable character and imposing effect--its
principal injury having been sustained by the addition of a wooden spire
placed above a low square tower which rises from the centre of the
edifice. The church is of large size, and consists of a double arcade,
dividing the nave from the aisles, above which are placed, “in what in
the architecture of the age was termed the cleoestory, a row of circular
windows enclosing quatrefoils--a shape of rare occurrence.” The south
transept was, we are told, formerly occupied by the parochial altar; it
now contains the communion-table and the font; the latter being
octagonal upon an octagonal shaft, with a corresponding pedestal. It is
composed of Sussex marble, and is of very early date. In the north
transept was “the chantry of St. Christopher, commonly called
Salmon’s”--to which was attached a priest whose endowment was the
appropriation of the Church of Rudgwick, “with two acres of land, one in
Rudgwick for his use, the other in Arundel for the site of his
residence.” The foundation of this chantry was created by the
benefaction of Edward Mille, Esq. “The first incumbent, William Baynton,
took possession of the benefice on the 9th May, 1440.”[48]
The original ecclesiastical foundation was that of the alien priory, or
cell, dedicated to St. Nicholas, established by Roger de Montgomery,
Earl of Arundel, soon after the Conquest, and subjected to the
Benedictine Abbey of Seez, or De Sagio, in Normandy. It consisted only
of a Prior and three
[Illustration]
or four Monks, who continued to conduct the establishment for nearly
three centuries, until the 3rd year of the reign of Richard II., when
Richard Fitz-alan, Earl of Arundel, obtained a license to extinguish the
Priory and to found a Chantry for the maintenance of a master and twelve
secular canons with their officers. Upon this change, it was styled “the
College of the Holy Trinity.”[49]
The Collegiate church being intended as the mausoleum of his family, the
founder supplied ample means to enrich it with examples of monumental
splendour. The tomb of his son Thomas Fitz-alan and his wife Beatrix,
daughter of John, King of Portugal, was the earliest of those placed in
the church. It is of alabaster, finely sculptured.[50] It was formerly
painted and gilt. It contains the effigies of the Earl and his Lady; at
the feet of the Earl is a horse, the cognizance of the Fitz-alans, and
at those of the Lady are two lap-dogs. Around, in niches, are small
standing figures of ecclesiastics or pleureurs, with open books, as
performing funeral obsequies, and above them as many escutcheons, the
emblazoning of which is nearly obliterated. Other “stately tombs” are
erected to the memories of John Fitz-alan and Eleanor his wife; Thomas,
Earl of Arundel, and his wife, “one of the eyres of Richard Wodevyle
Earl Rivers, sister to Elizabeth Queen of England, sometime wife to King
Edward IV.”--recording the date of the Earl’s death, 1524; and to Henry,
Earl of Arundel, the last of the Fitz-alans, erected by his son-in-law,
John, Baron Lumley, with a Latin inscription, of which the following is
a translation:--
“The magnanimous hero, whose effigy is here beheld, and whose
remains are deposited beneath this monument, was the Earl of this
place, the last of a family deriving its lengthened descent from
the son of Alan. His name was Henry, Lord and Baron Maltravers,
Clunne and Oswaldestre, senior knight of the most noble Order of
the Garter, only son and successor of William, Earl of Arundel, and
the worthy representative of his father’s virtues. To Henry,
Edward, Mary, and Elizabeth, he discharged the duty of Privy
Councillor. Under the first, he was Governor of Calais, Marshal of
the army at the siege of Boulogne, and afterwards Lord Chamberlain.
At the coronation of Edward, he officiated as Earl Marshal; at that
of Mary, as Lord High Constable. To the former, as to his father,
he was Lord Chamberlain: to the latter, as well as to her sister,
Queen Elizabeth, he was Lord High Steward, and President of the
Council.
“Thus, this man, illustrious in his descent, more illustrious in
his employments, and deemed most illustrious both at home and
abroad, rich in honour, but broken with labour and worn out with
age, having attained his sixty-eighth year, calmly and piously fell
asleep in the Lord, in London, on the 25th of February, 1579.
“To the kindest of fathers-in-law, and the best of patrons, here
interred, John Lumley, Baron Lumley, his affectionate son-in-law
and executor, with many tears, and as a last testimony of his love,
has consecrated this monument, and adorned it with his own armour,
not for the sake of preserving his memory, which his virtues have
rendered immortal, but for the sake of that mortal body, which is
here deposited, in the hope of a happy resurrection.”
There is one monument of a peculiarly striking character; it occupies an
opening cut in the wall, between the chancel and the Lady’s chapel--the
chapel which forms the subject of our principal engraving. They are
divided by low arches. The tomb is an open feretrum or bier, carved in
alabaster, and formerly painted, under which lies an emaciated figure
extended on a shroud. Upon the upper slab is an effigy in plate armour,
with a close tabard, emblazoned with Fitz-alan and Maltravers,
quarterly, the feet resting on a horse. Two angels support the head. It
represents John Fitz-alan, Earl of Arundel, who died at Beauvais of
wounds received at the siege of Gerberoy, in 1435. He had selected this
spot as the place of his interment; and although his remains were buried
in the Cathedral of Beauvais, this singular monument was erected to his
memory here.
The church encloses several monuments in addition to those we have
enumerated; and in the chancel are many brasses, containing epitaphs “in
obsolete Latin and monkish verse” to masters and fellows of the college
and to servants of the noble families--the Montgomeries, the Albinis,
the Fitz-alans and the Howards--who have held sway over Arundel for
centuries, for--
“Since William rose and Harold fell,
There have been Counts of Arundel;
And Earls old Arundel shall have
While rivers flow and forests wave.”
The decorations of the church and its magnificent tombs were either
seriously injured or destroyed by soldiers quartered in the church
during the siege of the castle in 1643. The windows were formerly filled
with richly stained glass, the eastern window containing a series of
kneeling figures, male and female, in coat armour and mantles, with
their respective armorial bearings.[51]
It is to the honour of the present Duke of Norfolk, that although a
member of the Roman Catholic Church, he has deemed it his duty to
restore this ancient and venerable edifice from the state of
dilapidation in which it has for many years existed.
[Illustration:
From a drawing by J. D Harding. Day & Son, Lithʳˢ. to The Queen.
BOXGROVE CHURCH, SUSSEX.]
BOXGROVE CHURCH,
SUSSEX.
The Priory, Boxgrove--part of which is now in ruins, but portions of
which are still used as the Parish Church--was founded by Robert de
Haiâ, Lord of Halmacro, A.D. 1117, in the reign of King Henry the First,
in honour of the Virgin and St. Blaise, for three monks only of the
Benedictine order. The sole daughter of the founder was married to Roger
St. John, who added three more; and the number was augmented to fifteen,
by their two sons, William and Robert, in the reign of King Stephen. It
remained, however, subordinate to the Abbey of L’Essay, or De Exaquio,
in Normandy, A.D. 1149. Before the suppression, the monks were reduced
to nine. But when Edward the Third assumed possession of other
alien Priories, that of Boxgrove secured the privilege of being
“indigena,” by which it was rendered independent, and retained its
endowment--considerable in proportion to the extent of the
establishment. In the year 1535, its annual revenue was £185 19_s._,
without including the income derived from fines and renewals.
The Ruins of Halnacre, or Halnaker, House, the mansion of Robert de
Haiâ, or De Haye, still exist in the grounds of Goodwood, the seat of
his Grace the Duke of Richmond. To this “worthie and valourous knight,”
the estate was given by Henry the First; from his descendant it passed,
by marriage, to the family of St. John. In the reign of Edward the Third
it was transferred, also by marriage, to the Poynings; subsequently, it
passed through the hands of the Bonvilles into those of the Lords de la
Warr, who gave it to Henry the Eighth in exchange for the Abbey and
lands of Wherwell, in Hampshire. Halnacre remained an appanage of the
Crown until towards the close of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, when the
Morleys received a grant of it. In 1701, it became the property of Mary,
Countess of Derby,[52] who inherited from her father, Sir William
Morley. At her death in 1752, it devolved to her cousin, Sir Thomas
Ackland, Bart., who sold it for the sum of £50,000 to the Duke of
Richmond. The Remains are of very limited extent; sufficient, however,
to indicate the former magnitude and splendour of the edifice.
Of the conventual buildings (the great extent of which may be estimated
by the old walls which form enclosures to neighbouring farm-yards)
little remains except the Refectory, now used as a barn; and the present
Parish Church, supposed to be the Choir of the original building. Some
portions of the ancient Nave, which appears to be of a
[Illustration]
more remote era, may be traced in the broken arches westward of the
Church; and the Chapter-house is attached, externally, to the North
Transept, having a Norman doorway, with arches on each side of it,
leading, it is believed, to a Cloister which extended to the Refectory
and the habitation of the monks. It is this fine relic of the once
extensive and richly-decorated structure which Mr. Prout has pictured in
the appended Print. A considerable portion of it has been removed by
time; and the Church is now separated from the Refectory by a huge gap,
where sheep were feeding quietly at the time of our visit. Marks of a
Piscina, and a place for the Bell, may still be detected by a minute
scrutiny. In an old MS., which came accidentally into our hands, it is
surmised that this portion of the edifice was the Private Chapel of the
monks.
The exterior of the Church (represented on the opposite page) is of very
imposing character, bearing indubitable tokens of remote antiquity. The
Tower is low, with windows; in its general form it resembles that of
Winchester, and seems to be of the era of Henry the Second. The interior
consists of a Nave and Chancel, without division, with aisles on each
side, north and south Transepts; and a space, westward of the Tower,
which is certainly the most ancient part of the structure. In length it
is 126 feet; the width of the Nave being 24 feet, and that of the aisles
each 13 feet 6 inches. The Eastern Window, of three large lights, is
separated internally by tall shafts and flourished capitals, and is
ornamented, externally, with the nail-head moulding. This mixture of
ornament affords almost conclusive proof that the structure is of the
date of Stephen or Henry the Second, when the round Norman arch was
first abandoned, and several novelties, which prevailed only in a few
instances, were introduced. Pillars, somewhat similar in character,
support the roof; but they have been consigned, from time to time, to
the hands of the “white-washer,” who has effectually hidden the fine
Purbeck
[Illustration]
marble of which they are composed.
The sepulchral remains in the Church of Boxgrove are remarkable, and
worthy of investigation, although it is difficult to ascertain with any
degree of certainty to whom the Tombs severally belong. They are six in
number, two situated against the north wall of the north aisle, and
another of large dimensions under one of the arches which divide the
Chancel from the north aisle; and three others, placed against the south
wall of the south aisle. Two of these probably contain the bodies of a
sister and daughter of William de Albini, Earl of Arundel, who left a
donation to the Church for prayers to be made “pro animâ Adelizæ reginæ
(his mother, and Queen-Dowager of Henry the First), et pro animabus
Oliviæ; sororis meæ, et Oliviæ filiæ meæ, quæ ibi jacent.” Out of this
circumstance has probably arisen a tradition, that Queen Adeliza was
here interred; but there is sufficient evidence to prove that her
remains were deposited in the Conventual Church of Reading.[53] Dugdale
asserts, but erroneously, that Gundreda, wife of William Earl Warren,
was here buried; her husband, it is believed, was a benefactor to the
establishment. Thomas de Poynings and Philippa his second wife (daughter
of Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, Countess Dowager of Arundel and
Pembroke), are also said to have been here interred; and upon the
key-stone of one of the tombs in the north aisle are the arms of the
family of St. John (argent in a chief gules, two mullets pierced
or)--the tomb possibly of Thomas de Poynings, summoned as Lord St. John
of Basing, 1369, (42 Edw. III.), obit. 1429. It is left mainly to
conjecture, aided by the uncertain light of tradition, to determine
whose dust is covered by these stones. There is, however, one Monument,
concerning which no doubts can exist. It is a Sacellum, or Shrine,
belonging to the family of West, or La War. The date, as may be seen on
the pendant ornament between the two north-eastern arches, is 1532,
which was during the lifetime of Thomas West, second Baron La War and
Cantilupe; but it is supposed to have been erected after his death by
his daughter, Dorothy, who married Sir Edward Owen. The inscription
under the Altar in the Shrine--
Of yʳ charite pray for yᵉ souls of Thomas La Ware and Elyzabeth hˢ wyf,
seems to sanction the supposition. In other parts of the Shrine may be
read the words,
Thomas La War Anno Dni MVXXXII.
and
Elizabeth La War.
Between the niches of the Shrine, over the arcades, are four coats of
arms, supported by angels, with the quarterings of La War, Cantilupe,
Mortimer, St. John, Poynings, Bonville, Wingfield, &c. The Tomb is a
peculiarly interesting and remarkably beautiful object. It has recently
been cleaned and repaired by order of the Duke of Richmond--somewhat
clumsily, however, for the workman has disarranged several of the
decorations, and one of the figures he has placed “upside down.” It is
richly carved in stone, and abundantly ornamented. Mr. Prout has
introduced it into the Drawing which exhibits the Interior of the
venerable Church, with its Pulpit of carved oak, black with age. An
ancient Font has been recently removed from the Nave to the foot of the
Pulpit. In the Chancel are many encaustic tiles--one of which supplies
us with an initial letter.
The Church is situated about eight miles west of Arundel, a short
distance out of the road to Chichester, from which it is distant about
four miles.
[Illustration:
From a drawing by A. E. Everett. Day & Son, Lithʳˢ to The Queen.
ASTON HALL, WARWICKSHIRE.]
ASTON HALL,
WARWICKSHIRE.
Aston Hall, the residence of James Watt, Esq.--whose name has been
rendered “famous for all time” by the genius and enterprise of his great
father--is situate about two miles from the town of Birmingham, on an
eminence which overlooks the river Tame. Although erected during the
reign of James the First and his successor, it is certain that a
baronial mansion previously existed adjacent to the present edifice:
authorities are conclusive on this point, and its site was indicated
until recently by some venerable trees, the relics of at least three
centuries. Prior to the Norman conquest (according to Dugdale) the manor
of Aston, or, as it was then written, Estone or East Town, was possessed
by Edwin earl of Mercia. Upon the distribution of lands which followed
that event, it was bestowed by the Conqueror upon William Fitz-Ausculf,
lord of the neighbouring castle of Dudley, for whom it was held by one
Godmund. It was certified to contain, at that time, viii. hides of land,
valued at 100 shillings, a mill rated at iii_s._, a church, and woods
extending three miles in length and half a mile in breadth. After
passing through the hands of several successive lords of Dudley, it was
presented by one of them, named Ralph Someri, in the beginning of the
reign of King John, to William de Erdington and his heirs for ever; and
we find the following curious grant respecting it, viz. “That the
manour-house and demesne at Estone, with divers tenements thereto
belonging, should be held by him, by the service of a pair of gilt
spurs, or the value thereof, viz. vi_d._, payable yearly at Easter, for
all services or demands whatsoever.” From the Erdingtons it passed to
the family of Maidenhache, whose daughter Sibel conveyed it by marriage
to Adam de Grymesurwe, whose daughter sold it in 1367 to John Atte Holt
of Duddeston near Birmingham, and in whose family it subsequently
continued for upwards of four hundred years. Originally of the people,
they became powerful and wealthy “lords of the soil,” eminent for worth
and probity, and occupying offices of high trust in Warwickshire and the
neighbouring counties. Thomas Holt is especially mentioned as an
eminent lawyer in the reign of Henry the Eighth; he was Justice of North
Wales, and in commission as a justice of the peace for his native county
during the greater part of that monarch’s sovereignty. To this “worthie
gentleman” succeeded his son Edward, who, dying in the thirty-fifth of
Elizabeth, was succeeded by his son Thomas, who was Sheriff of
Warwickshire in the forty-second of Elizabeth, was knighted by King
James on his accession to the throne, and in the tenth year of his reign
advanced to the dignity of a baronet. It was this Sir Thomas who
enclosed the spacious park, and erected the present mansion. The date
and circumstances of the building are thus recorded over the entrance
doorway:--
“Sir Thomas Holte, of Duddeston in the countie of Warwick, Knight
and Baronet, began to build this house in Aprill, Anno Domini 1618,
in the 16th yeare of the raigne of King James of England, &c., and
of Scotland the one and fiftieth; and the said Sir Thomas Holte
came to dwell in this house in May, in Anno Domini 1631, in the
seaventh yeare of the raigne of our soveraigne Lord King Charles,
and he did finish this house in Aprill, Anno Domini 1635, in the
eleventh yeare of the raigne of the sayde King Charles.
“LAUS DEO.”
We may hence infer that “Sir Thomas Holte of Duddeston,” until the
building of the mansion, chiefly resided at the old house at Duddeston,
which, though still standing, is so completely altered that barely a
trace of its ancient character remains. It is now used as a public place
of recreation under the title of “Vauxhall.”
Sir Thomas was emphatically a good man and a loyal subject. He endowed
alms-houses, which, to this day, give shelter to some aged people; and
though too old to appear in arms for his sovereign during the wars of
Charles with the Parliament, he was represented by his son in the army
of the king, whom he received and entertained in his house a few days
prior to the battle of Edgehill. For his devotion to his master he, of
course, endured persecution; heavy fines were levied on his estate, and
his mansion was more than once plundered. Sir Thomas was succeeded by
his grandson and heir, Sir Robert Holt; subsequently the estate came
into the possession of Sir Lister Holt, who, dying without issue the 8th
of April, 1770. was succeeded by his eldest brother Charles, from whom
it passed into the family of Bracebridge;[54] by them it was sold a few
years ago to some parties in the neighbourhood of Warwick, who leased it
to its present occupier.
The mansion, which is built of brick, with stone quoins and dressings,
forms three sides of a square, and bears some resemblance to the letter
E, a practice which originated in compliment to Queen Elizabeth, and
was not altogether in disuse during the reign of her successor. The
eastern or principal front derives its principal features from the
massive character and judicious display of details; and a highly
pleasing effect is given to the structure by its gables, numerous
picturesque chimneys, bay windows to the wings, and, especially, the
stately grandeur of the central and side towers.
The south, or garden front, is also an interesting portion of the
structure; the appended vignette affords a correct idea
[Illustration]
of it. It will be seen that its principal feature is an open arcade,
around which are several antique carved seats, so placed as to
facilitate views of the garden, with its quaint and venerable trees and
shaded walks. Passing through a small door at the termination of this
arcade, we step upon a noble terrace, which extends the whole length of
the back or western front of the edifice. From this point we obtain an
unbroken view of the park in nearly its whole extent. The house is, from
this side, very imposing, from its great width and massive character.
Returning to the principal front, passing through the great doorway,
which is elevated on four steps and is of good character, we enter the
great hall. It is richly decorated; the fireplace is remarkably fine;
along the sides are ranged various old pictures, which, combined with
antique furniture profusely scattered about, take us back to the days of
its early grandeur, when the mansion was the residence of a true and
hospitable baronial lord. The apartments are fitted up in good keeping;
the dining and drawing-rooms, entered from the hall, retain their
ancient aspects; the panelling and ceilings are in excellent
preservation, the chimneypieces comparatively unimpaired by time, and
the whole interior is of a character sound and true.
We must not omit to mention that the fine oak staircase received
considerable injury during the great civil war. It appears that a cannon
was fired from a little eminence at a short distance from the south side
of the house, the shot from which, after passing through two strong
walls, lodged on the first landing of the great staircase,
shattering in its course a considerable portion of the richly-carved
balustrade--which, as a memorial of the event, has not been since
repaired.
The house is reached from the main road by a noble avenue of
finely-grown trees; these extend for nearly half a mile.
[Illustration]