On the 29th, they were again summoned to attend by the road side to do

homage before the Emperor, as he passed them on his way to a pagoda or

_Poo-ta-la_, a kind of temple or monastery, where a great number of

priests, clothed in yellow, lived together in a state of celibacy; and

here he made his burnt-offerings. The mystical rates performed, presents

were brought out for the Embassador and suite, and also for the _King_

of _Holland_, consisting of little purses, flimsey silks, and a coarse

stuff somewhat similar to that known by seamen under the name of

_bunting_; and, in token of gratitude for this mark of imperial

kindness, they were directed again to _bow down their heads to the

ground_.

On the 30th, it was announced to them that the Emperor intended to pay a

visit to his palace at _Yuen-min-yuen_, and that it would be necessary

for them to follow him thither; after having, as usual, paid their

respects in the Chinese manner by the road side as he passed.

On the 31st, they were conducted round the grounds of _Yuen-min-yuen_ by

several Mandarins, and received great satisfaction in viewing the vast

variety of buildings, and the good taste in which the gardens and

pleasure grounds were laid out, and which wore an agreeable aspect, even

in the depth of winter. In one of the buildings they saw the several

presents deposited, which had been carried the preceding year by the

Earl of Macartney. They were stowed away with no great care, among many

other articles, in all probability never more to see the light of day.

It seems the elegant carriages of Hatchett, that were finished with so

much care and objects of admiration even in London, were here carelessly

thrown behind one of their mean and clumsy carts, to which they

pretended to bestow a preference. Capricious as children, the toy once

played with must be thrown aside and changed for something new; or, in

this instance, it would not be out of character to suppose, that the two

vehicles had designedly been placed together to point out to Europeans

of how little estimation the Chinese considered their articles of

ostentation, when they could perform the same services by simpler and

less expensive means.

The Dutch Embassadors and their suite were now to have a specimen of the

court entertainments, and the polite amusements of this grand empire.

They consisted chiefly of the contortions of the human body, practiced

by posture-masters; of rope-dancing, and a sort of pantomimic

performance, the principal characters of which were men dressed in

skins, and going on all-fours, intended to represent wild beasts; and a

parcel of boys habited in the dresses of mandarins, who were to hunt

them. This extraordinary chace, and the music, and the rope-dancing, put

the Emperor into such good humour, that he rewarded the performers very

liberally. And the Empress and the ladies, who were in an upper part of

the house concealed behind a sort of venetian blinds, appeared from

their tittering noise to be highly entertained. The whole concluded,

though in the middle of the day, with a variety of fire-works; and the

Chinese part of the company departed seemingly well satisfied with these

diversions.

An eclipse of the moon happening on the fourth of February gave occasion

to the Embassadors to enjoy a little rest at home, though they were

summoned to attend the palace at a very early hour in the morning. The

Emperor and his mandarins were engaged the whole day in devoutly praying

the gods that the moon might not be eaten up by the great dragon that

was hovering about her. Recovered from their apprehensions, an

entertainment was given the following day, at which the Embassadors were

required to be present. After a number of juggling tricks and infantine

sports, a pantomime, intended to be an exhibition of the battle of the

dragon and the moon, was represented before the full court. In this

engagement two or three hundred priests, bearing lanterns suspended at

the ends of long sticks, performed a variety of evolutions, dancing and

capering about, sometimes over the plain, and then over chairs and

tables, affording to his Imperial Majesty and to his courtiers the

greatest pleasure and satisfaction.

On the fifteenth of February the Dutch Embassadors left Pekin, having

remained there thirty-six days, during which they were scarcely allowed

to have a single day's rest, but were obliged, at the most unseasonable

hours, in the depth of winter, when the thermometer was seldom higher

than 10 or 12 degrees below the freezing point, to dance attendance upon

the Emperor and the great officers of state, whenever they might think

fit to call upon them; and to submit to the degrading ceremony of

knocking the head nine times against the ground, at least on thirty

different occasions, and without having the satisfaction of gaining by

this unconditional compliance any one earthly thing, beyond a compliment

from the Emperor, _that they went through their prostrations to

admiration_! And they were finally obliged to leave the capital without

being once allowed to speak on any kind of business, or even asked a

single question as to the nature of their mission, which, indeed, the

Chinese were determined to take for granted was purely complimentary to

their great Emperor.

The manuscript I quote from describes minutely all the pantomimic

performances, the tricks of conjurors and jugglers, and the feats of

posture-masters, but as they seem to be pretty much of the same kind as

were exhibited before the British Embassy in Tartary, as described by

Lord Macartney, I forbear to relate them. Enough has been said to shew

the taste of the court in this respect, and the state of the drama in

China.

I suspect, however, that the amusements of the theatre have in some

degree degenerated at court since the time of the Tartar conquest.

Dancing, riding, wrestling, and posture-making, are more congenial to

the rude and unpolished Tartar than the airs and dialogue of a regular

drama, which is better suited to the genius and spirit of the

ceremonious and effeminate Chinese. I am led to this observation from

the very common custom among the Chinese officers of state of having

private theatres in their houses, in which, instead of the juggling

tricks above mentioned, they occasionally entertain their guests with

regular dramatic performances. In the course of our journey through the

country and at Canton, we were entertained with a number of exhibitions

of this kind; and as "the purpose of playing," as our immortal bard has

observed, "both at the first, and now, was, and is, to hold as 'twere

the mirror up to nature," it may not be foreign to the present subject

to take a brief notice of such performances.

The subjects of the pieces exhibited are for the most part historical,

and relate generally to the transactions of remote periods, in which

cases the dresses are conformable to the ancient _costume_ of China.

There are others, however, that represent the Tartar conquest, but none

built on historical events subsequent to that period. But the ancient

drama is preferred by the critics. They have also comic pieces, in which

there is always a buffoon, whose grimaces and low jests, like those of

the buffoons in our own theatres, obtain from the audience the greatest

share of applause. The dialogue in all their dramas, whether serious or

comic, is conducted in a kind of monotonous recitative, sometimes

however rising or sinking a few tones, which are meant to be expressive

of passionate or querulous cadences. The speaker is interrupted at

intervals by shrill harsh music, generally of wind instruments, and the

pauses are invariably filled up with a loud crash, aided by the sonorous

and deafening gong, and sometimes by the kettle drum. An air or song

generally follows. Joy, grief, rage, despair, madness, are all attempted

to be expressed in song on the Chinese stage. I am not sure that a

vehement admirer of the Italian opera might not take umbrage at the

representation of a Chinese drama, as it appears to be something so very

like a burlesque on that fashionable species of dramatic entertainment;

nor is the Chinese stage wanting in those vocal warblers, the nature of

whom, as we are told by the ingenious and very entertaining Martin

Sherlock, a French lady explained to her little inquisitive daughter, by

informing her, that there was the same difference between them and men,

as between an ox and a bull. Such creatures are indeed more necessary to

the Chinese theatre, as the manners of the country prohibit women from

appearing in public.

The unity of action is so far preserved, that they have actually no

change of scene; but change of place must frequently be supposed. To

assist the imagination in this respect, their management is whimsical

enough. If it be necessary to send a general on a distant expedition, he

mounts a stick, takes two or three turns round the stage, brandishes a

little whip, and sings a song; when this is ended, he stops short, and

recommences his recitative, when the journey is supposed to be

performed. The want of scenery is sometimes supplied by a very

unclassical figure, which, just the reverse of the _prosopopoeia_ or

personification of grammarians, considers persons to represent things.

If, for instance, a walled city is to be stormed, a parcel of soldiers,

piling themselves on a heap across the stage, are supposed to represent

the wall over which the storming party is to scramble. This puts one in

mind of the shifts of Nick Bottom. "Some man or other must present

wall," and, "let him have some plaister, or some lome, or some

rough-cast about him to signify wall."

The audience is never left in doubt as to the character which is

produced before it. Like the ancient Greek drama and, in imitation

thereof, all our old plays, the _dramatis personæ_ introduce themselves

in appropriate speeches to the acquaintance of the spectators.

As to the time of action, a single drama will sometimes include the

transactions of a whole century, or even of a dynasty more than twice

the length of that period; which, among other absurdities, gave Voltaire

occasion to compare what he thought to be a literal translation of the

_Orphan of the House of Tchao_, "to those monstrous farces of

Shakespear, which have been called tragedies;" farces, however, which

will continue to be read by those who understand them, which _he_ did

not, with heartfelt emotion and delight, when his _Orphan of China_

shall have sunk into the neglect even of his own admiring countrymen.

In this miserable composition of _Father Prémare_, for it can scarcely

be called a translation, there is neither diction, nor sentiment, nor

character; it is a mere tissue of unnatural, or at least very improbable

events, fit only for the amusement of children, and not capable of

raising one single passion, but that of contempt for the taste of those

who could express an admiration of such a composition. The denouement of

the piece is materially assisted by means of a dog: but this part of the

story is told, and not exhibited; the Chinese taste not being quite so

depraved, in this instance, as to admit the performance of a four-footed

animal on the stage.

This drama, with ninety-nine others, published together in one work, are

considered as the classical stock-pieces of the Chinese stage; but like

ourselves, they complain that a depraved taste prevails for modern

productions very inferior to those of ancient date. It is certainly

true, that every sort of ribaldry and obscenity are encouraged on the

Chinese stage at the present day. A set of players of a superior kind

travel occasionally from Nankin to Canton; at the latter of which

cities, it seems, they meet with considerable encouragement from the

Hong merchants, and other wealthy inhabitants. At these exhibitions the

English are sometimes present. The subject and the conduct of one of

their stock pieces, which being a great favourite is frequently

repeated, are so remarkable, that I cannot forbear taking some notice of

it. A woman being tempted to murder her husband performs the act whilst

he is asleep, by striking a small hatchet into his forehead. He appears

on the stage with a large gash just above the eyes, out of which issues

a prodigious effusion of blood, reels about for some time, bemoaning

his lamentable fate in a song, till exhausted by loss of blood, he

falls, and dies. The woman is seized, brought before a magistrate, and

condemned to be flayed alive. The sentence is put in execution; and, in

the following act, she appears upon the stage not only naked, but

completely excoriated. The thin wrapper with which the creature (an

eunuch) is covered, who sustains the part, is stretched so tight about

the body, and so well painted, as to represent the disgusting object of

a human being deprived of its skin; and in this condition the character

sings or, more properly speaking, whines nearly half an hour on the

stage, to excite the compassion of three infernal or malignant spirits

who, like Æacus, Minos, and Rhadamanthus, sit in judgment on her future

destiny. I have been informed that it is scarcely possible to conceive a

more obscene, indelicate, and disgusting object, than this favourite

exhibition, which, if intended "to hold the mirror up to nature," it is

to nature in its most gross, rude, and uncivilized state, ill-agreeing

with the boasted morality, high polish, refined delicacy, and

ceremonious exterior of the Chinese nation; but it tends, among other

parts of their real conduct in life, to strengthen an observation I have

already made with regard to their filial piety, and which, with few

exceptions, may perhaps be extended to most of their civil and moral

institutions, "that they exist more in state maxims, than in the minds

of the people." As, however, a Chinese might be led to make similar

reflexions on the exhibition of Harlequin Skeleton, and those numerous

representations that of late years have crept upon our own stage, where

ghosts, hobgoblins, and bleeding statues are called in aid of the

_spectacle_, I should hesitate to draw any general conclusion, with

regard to their taste, from the particular exhibition of a woman flayed

alive, were they not in the constant practice of performing other pieces

that, in point of immorality and obscenity, are still infinitely worse;

so vulgarly indelicate and so filthy, that the European part of the

audience is sometimes compelled by disgust to leave the theatre. These

are such as will not bear description, nor do I know to what scenic

representations they can with propriety be compared, unless to those

gross indecencies of Theodora, which Procopius has described to have

been exhibited on the Roman stage, in the reign of Justinian[11]. The

people who encourage them must be sunk very deep in intellectual

grossness, and have totally lost sight of all decency. These and similar

scenes may be considered among the ill effects of excluding women from

their due share of influence in society.

[11] See _Gibbon_, under Emperor Justinian; and _Menagiana_, in which is

given the translation of a very extraordinary passage from _Procopius_.

It would be impossible to compliment the court of Pekin on the elegance

and refinement of its entertainments, but at the expence of truth and

reason. Those of Tartar origin will no more bear a comparison with the

noble contests of strength and agility displayed by the old hardy Romans

in the Circensian games, than the regular drama of the Chinese will

admit of being measured by the softer, but more refined and rational

amusements of a similar kind in Europe. It is true the scenic

representations in the decline of the Roman empire, as they are

described to us, appear to have been as rude and barbarous as those of

the Chinese. They began by exhibiting in their vast amphitheatre the

rare and wonderful productions of nature. Forests enlivened with

innumerable birds; caverns pouring forth lions, and tygers, and

panthers, and other beasts of prey; plains covered with the elephant,

the rhinosceros, the zebra, the ostrich, and other curious animals,

which the wilds of Africa furnished, were all brought together within

the circuit of the _arena_. Not satisfied with the rich productions of

the earth, the sea must also become tributary to their amusements. The

arena was convertible into a sheet of water; and, at length, the two

elements concluding a marriage, as on the Chinese theatre, produced a

race of monsters which, according to the Latin poet's[12] description,

might vie with those of China.

"Non solum nobus sylvestria cernere monstra

Contigit, æquoreos ego cum certantibus ursis

Spectavi vitulos, et equorum nomine dignum

Sed difforme genus."----

Where Sylvan monsters not alone appear,

But sea-cows struggle with the shaggy bear,

And horses of the deep, a shapeless race.----

[12] T. Calpurnius.

In short, the greater part of the amusements of the Chinese are, at the

present day, of a nature so very puerile, or so gross and vulgar, that

the tricks and the puppet-shews which are occasionally exhibited in a

common fair of one of the country towns of England, may be considered as

comparatively polished, interesting, and rational. In slight-of-hand, in

posture-making, rope-dancing, riding, and athletic exercises, they are

much inferior to Europeans; but in the variety of their fire-works they,

perhaps, may carry the palm against the whole world. In every other

respect the amusements of the capital of China appear to be of a low and

trifling nature, neither suited to the affected gravity of the

government nor to the generally supposed state of civilization among the

people.

The old Emperor, as he observed to Lord Macartney, seldom partook of

such amusements. Considering, indeed, all the circumstances connected

with the reign of the present dynasty on the throne, the government of

an empire of such vast magnitude, stored with an almost incalculable

population, must necessarily be a task of inconceivable vigilance and

toil; a task that must have required all the time, the talents, and the

attention of the four sovereigns to ensure the brilliant and

unparalleled successes that have distinguished their long reign. _Tchien

Lung_, at the age of eighty-three, was so little afflicted with the

infirmities of age, that he had all the appearance and activity of a

hale man of sixty. His eye was dark, quick, and penetrating, his nose

rather aquiline, and his complexion, even at this advanced age, was

florid. His height I should suppose to be about five feet ten inches,

and he was perfectly upright. Though neither corpulent nor muscular at

eighty-three, it was not difficult to perceive that he once had

possessed great bodily strength. He always enjoyed a vigorous

constitution, which the regularity of his life did not impair. Like all

the Mantchoo Tartars he was fond of hunting, an exercise that during the

summer months he never neglected. He had the reputation of being an

expert bowman, and inferior only in drawing this weapon to his

grandfather _Caung-shee_, who boasts, in his last will, that he drew a

bow of the weight or strength of one hundred and fifty pounds.

Nor were the faculties of his mind less active, or less powerful, than

those of his body. As prompt in conceiving as resolute in executing his

plans of conquest, he seemed to command success. Kind and charitable, as

on all occasions he shewed himself to his subjects, by remitting the

taxes, and administering relief in seasons of distress, he was no less

vindictive and relentless to his enemies. Impatient of restraint or

reverses, he has sometimes been led to act with injustice, and to punish

with too great severity. His irascible temper was once the cause of a

severe and lasting affliction to himself, and the circumstances

connected with it are said to have produced a gloom and melancholy on

his mind which never entirely forsook him. About the middle part of his

reign, he made a circuit through the heart of his empire. At

_Sau-tchoo-foo_, a city that is celebrated for its beautiful ladies

which, being purchased when infants, are educated there for sale to the

opulent, he was captivated with a girl of extraordinary beauty and

talents, whom he intended to carry back with him to his capital. The

Empress, by means of an eunuch, was made acquainted with his new amour,

and dreading his future neglect, her spirits were depressed to such a

degree, that a few days after receiving the intelligence she put an end

to her existence with a cord. The Emperor, on hearing this melancholy

news, was greatly distressed and repaired without delay to Pekin. One of

his sons, a very amiable youth, fearful of incurring his father's

displeasure, had entertained some doubts whether it would be most

proper to appear before him in deep mourning for his mother, which

might be construed as an insult to the father, who had been the cause of

her death, or in his robes of ceremony, which would be disrespectful to

the memory of his deceased mother. In this dilemma he consulted his

schoolmaster, who, like a true Chinese, advised him to put on both. He

did so and, unfortunately for him, covered the mourning with the

ceremonial habit. _Tchien-Lung_, whose affection had now returned for

his deceased Empress, and whose melancholy fate he was deeply lamenting,

on perceiving his son at his feet without mourning, was so shocked and

exasperated at the supposed want of filial duty that, in the moment of

rage, he gave him a violent kick in an unfortunate place which, after

his languishing a few days, proved fatal.

None of his four surviving sons ever possessed any share of his

confidence or authority which, of late years, were wholly bestowed on

his first minister _Ho-chung-tong_. He had a due sense of religious

duties, which he regularly performed every morning. Having made a vow at

the early part of his reign that, should it please heaven to grant him

to govern his dominions for a complete cycle, or sixty years, he would

then retire, and resign the throne to his successor, he religiously

observed it on the accomplishment of the event. The sincerity of his

faith may partly be inferred from the numerous and splendid temples he

built and endowed in different parts of oriental Tartary, of which the

_Poo-ta-la_, or convent of Budha at Gehol, is the most magnificent. It

is said indeed, from the circumstance of his long and fortunate reign,

he had, in his later years, entertained an idea, that the Lama, or

Budha, or Fo, for they are all the same personage, had condescended to

become incarnate in his person. "However wild and extravagant," observes

Lord Macartney, "such a conceit may be regarded, we know from history

how much even the best understandings may be perverted by prosperity,

and that human nature, not satisfied with the good things of this world,

sometimes wishes to anticipate the condition and felicity of the next.

If Alexander scorned to own less than Jupiter Ammon for his father, if

many Roman Emperors extorted altars and sacrifices in their lifetime,

if, even in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, an English nobleman[13]

encouraged the belief of his descent from a swan, and was complimented

in a dedication upon his feathered pedigree, a similar infatuation may

be the less inexcusable in _Kien-Long_, a monarch, the length and

happiness of whose reign, the unlimited obedience of whose incalculable

number of subjects, and the health and vigour of whose body, have

hitherto kept out of his view most of those circumstances that are apt

to remind other men of their misery and mortality."

[13] Duke of Buckingham. See the notes on this character in Shakespear's

Henry VIII. Act. i, Scene 2.

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