and used in the barges to direct the motions of the trackers on shore,
the kettle-drums and the trumpets in the military band, the shrill music
and squalling recitative in the theatre, which was entirely open in
front, and facing the river in full view of the crowd; the number of
temporary booths and buildings erected for the use of the viceroy,
governor, judges, and other officers of government, and gaily decorated
with ribbands and silken streamers; the buzz and merriment of the crowd
had, altogether, so striking an affinity to the usual entertainments of
Bartholomew fair, that no extraordinary stretch of the imagination was
required to suppose ourselves for the moment to have been transported
into Smithfield. We instantly acquitted the Chinese of any want of
curiosity. The arrival of Elfi Bey in London drew not half the crowd;
and yet the Chinese account us much greater barbarians than we pretend
to consider the mamelukes. The old viceroy of the province, a Tartar of
mild and winning manners, had prepared for us a most magnificent
entertainment with wine, fruits, and great variety of pastry and
sweetmeats, together with presents of tea, silk, and nankins, not only
to the Embassador and his suite, but also to the servants, musicians,
and soldiers.
The cheerful and good-natured countenances of the multitude were
extremely prepossessing; not less so their accommodating behaviour to
one another. There was an innocence and simplicity in their features,
that seemed to indicate a happy and contented turn of mind. This,
however, being a sort of gala day, we might, on account of the
extraordinary occasion, perhaps have viewed them to the best advantage;
yet the same cheerful and willing mind had constantly shewn itself on
all occasions, by all those who were employed in the service of the
embassy. On board the yachts constant mirth and good humour prevailed
among the seamen. When the weather was calm, the vessels were generally
pushed on by means of two large sculls or oars turning upon pivots that
were placed in projecting pieces of wood near the _bow_ of the vessel,
and not the stern, as is the practice of most other nations. From six to
ten men are required to work one of these oars, which, instead of being
taken out of the water, as in the act of rowing, are moved backwards and
forwards under the surface, in a similar manner to what in England is
understood by sculling. To lighten their labour, and assist in keeping
time with the strokes, the following rude air was generally sung by the
master to which the whole crew used to join in chorus:
[Music: AIR.
Solo
by the Master.
Hai-yo hai-yau hai-yo hai-yau
hai-wha de hai-yau hai-yau
Chorus
by the Crew.
Hai-yo hai-yau hai-yo
hai-yau hai-yo hai-yau]
On many a calm still evening, when a dead silence reigned upon the
water, have we listened with pleasure to this artless and unpolished
air, which was sung, with little alteration through the whole fleet.
Extraordinary exertions of bodily strength, depending, in a certain
degree, on the willingness of the mind, are frequently accompanied with
exhilarating exclamations among the most savage people; but the Chinese
song could not be considered in this point of view; like the
exclamations of our seamen in hauling the ropes, or the oar song of the
Hebridians, which, as Doctor Johnson has observed, resembled the
proceleusmatick verse by which the rowers of Grecian galleys were
animated, the chief object of the Chinese chorus seemed to be that of
combining chearfulness with regularity.
"Verse sweetens toil, however rude the sound."
Of their honesty, sobriety, and carefulness, we had already received
convincing proofs. Of the number of packages, amounting to more than six
hundred, of various sizes and descriptions, not a single article was
missing nor injured, on their arrival at the capital, notwithstanding
they had been moved about, and carried by land, and transhipped several
times. Of the three state-officers, who had been deputed from court to
attend the embassy, two of them were the most obliging and attentive
creatures imaginable. The third, a Tartar, who first made his appearance
at _Tien-sing_, was distant, proud, and imperious. The Chinese indeed
were invariably more affable than the Tartars. In short, had we returned
to Europe, without proceeding farther in the country than _Tien-sing_, a
most lively impression would always have remained on my mind in favour
of the Chinese. But a variety of incidents that afterwards occurred, and
a more intimate acquaintance with their manners and habits, produced a
woeful change of sentiment in this respect. Of such incidents, as may
tend to illustrate the moral character of this extraordinary people, I
shall relate a few that were the most striking, in taking a general view
of their state of society, to which, and to the nature of the executive
government, all their moral actions may be referred: and by the
influence of which, the natural bent of their character evidently has
undergone a complete change.
Leaving _Tien-sing_ on the 11th of August, we found the river
considerably contracted in its dimensions, and the stream more powerful.
The surface of the country, in fact, began to assume a less uniform
appearance, being now partly broken into hill and dale; but nothing
approaching to a mountain was yet visible in any direction. It was still
however scantily wooded, few trees appearing except large willows on the
banks, and knots of elms, or firs, before the houses of men in office,
and the temples, both of which were generally found at the head of each
village. More grain was here cultivated than on the plains near the
mouth of the river. Two species of millet, the _panicum crus galli_, and
the _italicum_, and two of a larger grain, the _holcus sorghum_, and the
_saccharatus_, were the most abundant. We observed also a few patches of
buck-wheat, and different sorts of kidney-beans; but neither common
wheat, barley, nor oats. A species of nettle, the _urtica nivea_ was
also sown in square patches, for the purpose of converting its fibres
into thread, of which they manufacture a kind of cloth. We saw no
gardens nor pleasure-grounds, but considerable tracts of pasture or
meadow-land intervened between the villages, on which however were few
cattle, and those few remarkably small. Those we procured for the use of
the ships along the coast of the gulph of _Pe-tche-lee_, seldom exceeded
the weight of two hundred pounds. The few sheep we saw were of the
broad-tailed species. The cottages of the peasantry were very mean,
without any appearance of comfort, and thinly scattered; seldom standing
alone, but generally collected into small villages.
If, however, cities, towns, villages, and farm-houses, were less
abundant so near the capital, than from the relations of travellers we
had expected to find them, the multitudes of inhabitants whose constant
dwelling was on the water, amply made up the apparent deficiency on
shore. We passed, in one day, upon this river, more than six hundred
large vessels, having each a range of ten or twelve distinct apartments
built upon the deck, and each apartment contained a whole family. The
number of persons in one of these vessels, we reckoned, on an average,
to be about fifty, and we actually counted above one thousand vessels of
this description, that were floating on that part of the river, between
_Tien-sing_ and _Tong-tchoo_. The different kinds of craft, besides
these, that were perpetually passing and re-passing, or lying chained to
the banks of the river, all of which were crowded with men, women, and
children, contained full as many as the large vessels above mentioned;
so that, in the distance of ninety miles, on this small branch of a
river, there were floating on the water not fewer than one hundred
thousand souls.
Among the different cargoes of cotton wool, copper-money, rice, silk,
salt, tea, and other commodities for the supply of the capital, we
observed an article of commerce, in several of the large open craft,
that puzzled us not a little to find out for what it was intended. It
consisted of dry brown cakes, not much larger but thicker than those we
call crumpets. A close examination, however, soon discovered the nature
of their composition, which, it seemed, was a mixture of every kind of
filth and excrementitious substances, moulded into their present shape,
and dried in the sun. In this form they are carried to the capital as
articles of merchandize, where they meet with a ready market from the
gardeners in the vicinity; who, after dissolving them in urine, use them
for manure.
Little occurred that was worthy of note, between _Tien-sing_ and
_Tong-tchoo_, except an instance in the exercise of arbitrary power, not
less cruel than that of the Governor of _Chu-san_, and ill agreeing with
the feelings of Englishmen. Some of our provisions happened one morning
to be a little tainted, which could not be wondered at, considering the
heat of the weather, the mercury, by Fahrenheit's scale, being from 82°
to 88°. The officers, however, who had been commissioned to furnish the
supply of provisions, were instantly deprived of their rank, and all
their servants severely bambooed. The Embassador interceded with _Van_
and _Chou_ in favour of the degraded delinquents, was heard with great
attention, but perceived that little indulgence or relaxation from
strict discipline was to be expected on such occasions.
The whole distance, from the entrance of the _Pei-ho_ to the city of
_Tong-tchoo_ is about one hundred and seventy miles. Here we found two
buildings, that had been erected in the space of two days, for the
temporary purpose of receiving the presents and baggage; and they were
constructed of such large dimensions, that they were capable of
containing at least ten times the quantity. The materials were wooden
poles and mats, and a fence of wooden paling surrounded the whole.
We took up our lodging in a spacious temple in the suburbs, from whence
the priests were turned out without the least ceremony, to make room
for us, consisting in the whole of one hundred persons nearly. And here
it was settled we should remain until every article was landed, and
coolies or porters procured sufficient to carry the whole at once to
Pekin, which was computed to be about twelve miles to the westward from
this place. And although near three thousand men were required for this
purpose, they were supplied the instant the goods were all on shore; nor
did it appear that any difficulty would have been found in raising
double that number, as there seemed to be ten times the number of idle
spectators as of persons employed. The plain between the landing-place
and the temple was like a fair, and cakes, rice, tea, and fruit upon
masses of ice, and many other refreshments were exposed for sale, under
large square umbrellas, that served instead of booths. A slice of
water-melon, cooled on ice, was sold for one _tchen_, a piece of base
copper coin, of the value of about three-tenths of a farthing. Not a
single woman appeared among the many thousand spectators that were
assembled on the plain.
CHAP. III.
Journey through the Capital to a Country Villa of the Emperor. Return to
Pekin. The Imperial Palace and Gardens of Yuen-min-yuen, and the Parks
of Gehol.
_Order of Procession from_ Tong-choo _to the Capital.--Crowd assembled
on the Occasion.--Appearance of Pekin without and within the
Walls.--Some Account of this City.--Proceed to a Country Villa of the
Emperor.--Inconveniences of.--Return to Pekin.--Embassador proceeds to
Tartary.--Author sent to the Palace of_ Yuen-min-yuen.--_Miserable
Lodgings of.--Visit of the President and Members of the Mathematical
Tribunal.--Of the Bishop of Pekin, and others.--Gill's Sword-blades.
--Hatchett's Carriages.--Scorpion found in a Cask packed at
Birmingham.--Portraits of English Nobility.--Effects of Accounts from
Tartary on the Officers of State in Pekin.--Emperor's return to the
Capital.--Inspects the Presents.--Application of the Embassador for
Leave to depart.--Short Account of the Palace and Gardens of_
Yuen-min-yuen.--_Lord Macartney's Description of the Eastern and Western
Parks of Gehol.--And his general Remarks on Chinese Landscape
Gardening._
The presents for the Emperor and our private baggage being all landed,
the packages repaired, and every article minutely noted down by the
officers of government, the porters were directed to fix their bamboo
bearing poles to each package, that no impediment might prevent our
setting out at an early hour in the morning. In doing this, as well as
in landing the articles from the vessels, the Chinese porters shewed
such expedition, strength, and activity, as could not, I believe, be
parallel or procured in so short a time, in any other country. Every
thing here, in fact, seems to be at the instant command of the state;
and the most laborious tasks are undertaken and executed with a
readiness, and even a chearfulness, which one could scarcely expect to
meet with in so despotic a government.
According to the arrangement, on the 21st of August about three o'clock
in the morning, we were prepared to set out, but could scarcely be said
to be fairly in motion till five, and before we had cleared the city of
_Tong-tchoo_, it was past six o'clock. From this city to the capital, I
may venture to say, the road never before exhibited so motley a groupe.
In front marched about three thousand porters, carrying six hundred
packages; some of which were so large and heavy, as to require
thirty-two bearers, with these were mixed a proportionate number of
inferior officers, each having the charge and superintendence of a
division. Next followed eighty-five waggons, and thirty-nine hand-carts,
each with one wheel, loaded with wine, porter and other European
provisions, ammunition, and such heavy articles as were not liable to be
broken. Eight light field pieces, which were among the presents for the
Emperor, closed this part of the procession. After these paraded the
Tartar legate, and several officers from court, with their numerous
attendants; some on horseback, some in chairs, and others on foot. Then
followed the Embassador's guard in waggons, the servants, musicians, and
mechanics, also in waggons; the gentlemen of the suite on horseback, the
Embassador, the Minister Plenipotentiary, his son, and the interpreter,
in four ornamented chairs; the rest of the suite in small covered
carriages on two wheels, not unlike in appearance to our funeral
hearses, but only about half the length; and last of all _Van_ and
_Chou_, with their attendants, closed this motley procession.
Though the distance was only twelve miles, it was thought advisable by
our conductors to halt for breakfast about half-way; for, as heavy
bodies move slowly, what with the delay and confusion in first getting
into order, and the frequent stoppages on the road, we found it was
eight o'clock before the whole of the cavalcade had reached the half-way
house. Here we had a most sumptuous breakfast of roast pork and venison,
rice and made dishes, eggs, tea, milk, and a variety of fruits served up
on masses of ice.
The porters and the heavy baggage moved forwards without halting; and
having ended our comfortable repast, we followed without loss of time.
We had scarcely proceeded three miles, till we found the sides of the
road lined with spectators on horseback, on foot, in small carriages
similar to those we rode in, in carts, waggons, and chairs. In the last
were Chinese ladies but, having gauze curtains at the sides and front,
we could see little of them. Several well-looking women in long silken
robes, with a great number of children, were in the small carriages.
These we understood to be Tartars. A file of soldiers now moved along
with the procession on each side of the road, armed with whips, which
they continually exercised in order to keep off the crowd that increased
as we approached the capital, and, at length, was so great as to
obstruct the road. We observed, however, that though the soldiers were
very active and noisy in brandishing their whips, they only struck them
against the ground, and never let them fall upon the people. Indeed a
Chinese crowd is not so tumultuous and unruly as it generally is
elsewhere.
The excessive heat of the weather, the dustiness of the road, the
closeness of the carriages, and the slow manner in which we moved along,
would have made this short journey almost insupportable, but from the
novelty of the scene, the smiles, the grins, the gestures of the
multitude, and above all, the momentary expectation of entering the
greatest city on the surface of the globe. Those also who had been so
unlucky as to make choice of the little covered carriages, found
themselves extremely uncomfortable, notwithstanding they are the best,
the most easy and genteel sort of carriage that the country affords.
Being fixed on the wheels without springs, and having no seats in the
inside, they are to an European, who must sit on his haunches in the
bottom, the most uneasy vehicles that can be imagined. Father Semedo,
one of the earliest missionaries to China, asserts, that coaches were
anciently in common use in this country, and that they were laid down on
account of the great convenience and little expence of sedan chairs. The
coaches alluded to by the reverend father were, in all probability, the
little carts above mentioned, for not the vestige of any thing better is
to be found among them; not the least appearance of any thing like a
spring carriage. It is more probable that palanquins and chairs have
been in common use here and in India, from the earliest period of their
histories. The _lectica_ of the Romans is supposed to have been brought
to Rome in the time of the Republic from some of the eastern nations.
The great road to the capital lay across an open country, sandy and ill
cultivated, and the few houses on each side were of mean appearance,
generally built with mud, or half burnt bricks, to the very gates of
Pekin. The middle part of the road, for the width of eighteen or twenty
feet, was paved with stones of granite from six to sixteen feet in
length and broad in proportion. Every one of these enormous flag stones
must have been brought, at least sixty miles, the nearest mountains
where quarries of granite are found being those that divide China from
Mantchoo Tartary, near the great wall.
A temple on the right of the road and a bridge of white marble having
the balustrade ornamented with figures, meant to represent lions and
other animals cut out of the same material, were the only objects that
attracted any notice, until the walls and the lofty gates of the capital
appeared in view. None of the buildings within, on this side of the
city, overtopped the walls, though these did not appear to exceed
twenty-five or at most thirty feet in height; they were flanked with
square towers, and surrounded by a moat or ditch. These towers projected
about forty feet from the line of the wall, and were placed at regular
intervals of about seventy yards, being considered as bow-shot distance
from each other. Each had a small guard-house upon its summit. The
thickness of the base of the wall was about twenty-five feet, and the
width across this top within the parapets twelve feet; so that the
sides of the wall have a very considerable slope, much more however
within than without. The middle part was composed of the earth that had
been dug out of the ditch; and was kept together by two retaining walls,
part of which were of brick and part of stone. The famous barrier on the
borders of Tartary, and the ramparts of all the cities in the country,
are built in the same manner.
No cannon were mounted on the walls nor on the bastions; but in the high
building which surmounted the gate, and which was several stories one
above the other, the port-holes were closed with red doors, on the
outside of which were painted the representations of cannon, not unlike
at a distance the sham ports in a ship of war. The gates of a Chinese
city are generally double, and placed in the flanks of a square or
semicircular bastion. The first opens into a large space, surrounded
with buildings, which are appropriated entirely for military uses, being
the depôt of provisions and ammunition, _place d'armes_, and barracks.
Out of this place, in one of the flanks, the second gate, having a
similar high building erected over it as the first, opens into the city.
The first appearance of this celebrated capital is not much calculated
to raise high expectations, nor does it in the least improve upon a more
intimate acquaintance. In approaching an European city it generally
happens that a great variety of objects catch the eye, as the towers and
spires of churches, domes, obelisks, and other buildings for public
purposes towering above the rest; and the mind is amused in conjecturing
the form, and magnitude of their several constructions, and the uses to
which they may be applied. In Pekin not even a chimney is seen rising
above the roofs of the houses which, being all nearly of the same
height, and the streets laid out in straight lines, have the appearance
and the regularity of a large encampment. The roofs would only require
to be painted white, instead of being red, green, or blue, to make the
resemblance complete. Few houses exceed the height of one story, and
none but the great shops have either windows or openings in the wall in
front, but most of them have a sort of terrace, with a railed balcony or
parapet wall in front, on which are placed pots of flowers, or shrubs,
or stunted trees.
This city is an oblong square, the outward boundary of which is forty
_lees_, each _lee_ being six hundred yards, so that the inclosing wall
is near fourteen English miles, and the area about twelve square miles,
independent of the extensive suburbs at every gate. In the south wall
are three gates, and in each of the other sides two, from whence it is
sometimes called _The city with nine gates_; but its usual name is
_Pe-ching_, or the Northern Court. The middle gate, on the south side,
opens into the Imperial city, which is a space of ground within the
general inclosure, in the shape of a parallelogram, about a mile in
length from north to south, and three-fourths of a mile from east to
west. A wall built of large red polished bricks, and twenty feet high,
covered with a roof of tiles painted yellow and varnished, surrounds
this space, in which are contained not only the imperial palace and
gardens, but also all the tribunals, or public offices of government,
lodgings for the ministers, the eunuchs, artificers, and tradesmen
belonging to the court. A great variety of surface, as well as of
different objects, appear within this inclosure. A rivulet winding
through it not only affords a plentiful supply of water, but adds
largely to the beauties of the grounds, by being formed into canals and
basons, and lakes, which, with the artificial mounts, and rocks, and
groves, exhibit the happiest imitation of nature.
Between the other two gates, in the south wall, and the corresponding
and opposite ones on the north side of the city, run two streets
perfectly straight, each being four English miles in length, and about
one hundred and twenty feet in width. One street also of the same width
runs from one of the eastern to the opposite western gate, but the other
is interrupted by the north wall of the imperial city, round which it is
carried. The cross streets can be considered only as lanes branching
from these main streets at right angles; are very narrow; but the houses
in them are generally of the same construction as those in the great
streets. The large houses of the state officers are in these lanes.