_Alexandria, July 14._
A little before we left Cairo on our return, I had a disagreement
with the captain in whose boat I had gone up from Atfi. On reaching
Cairo, I was induced, in part owing to the fire which was raging
in the Frank quarter of the town, to think I had better not take
rooms in that quarter, as otherwise I might probably have done.
The captain, who had been wishing to engage to take me back to
Atfi, expressed his willingness that I should remain in his boat,
retain the use of his cabin, and he would take me back for what he
received for bringing me up; and engaged to be ready to start back
at the time I named. When the time drew near at which we were to
set off, I found that he was not likely to be ready to go, as he
had not discharged the loading which he brought up. It came also to
my knowledge, through Angelo, that he intended to make a special
charge for the use of the cabin, which I fully understood was a part
of the accommodation he was to find me. On inquiry, I found that
thus it was; and the prospect was that I would be detained, as well
as greatly overcharged. I told him, as we had misunderstood each
other, we must have a new bargain. I would agree to the bargain as
I understood it; but not as he now explained it. He declared he
would not agree to it but as he understood it. I let him know I
would leave his boat, paying him for the time I had used the cabin.
On inquiry I found another boat was about to start at the time that
I had fixed on, and made my arrangements to leave him. This took
place near night, and the captain changed his tone, and declared I
should not leave his boat. He would not allow his men to hand my
baggage; forbade the men of the other boat that was hard by to set
foot on his deck. The English consul was fully engaged with taking
care of the effects of the Franks who had been burned out; and,
moreover, night came on, and we had no way to get word to him. I
threatened the captain with a complaint through the consul; but he
let me know he cared not for the consul. Poor Angelo was in a great
fright. He always had a fear of the Turks, and now all his fears
came over him. I did not myself feel altogether comfortable. There
I was with my wife and three little children, in the cabin of a
boat, the captain and crew of which were Turks, and had not only
abused me, but positively refused to let me leave it. I had but
one servant, and he was much frightened. There was no alternative;
we had to stay and did stay that night, and that without any
molestation. At the dawn of day, the crew were at work unloading,
and getting ready to set off. I had no intention, however, of
remaining in the power of a captain who had shown me so little
respect. I found means to get word to a cawass of the consul's,
who was often employed near where our boat lay; and through his
interference had my baggage landed per force, paid the captain
what the cawass said was right, and went on board the other boat
with my family. When the captain found that leave him I would, he,
Turk-like, submitted to it with more quietness than I had expected.
We were all glad to get out of the boat, after the dispute, and none
of us more so than Angelo, who did not seem to think his head was
safe on his shoulders, until he was safely on board another boat.
The vessel in which we took passage to Atfi had two giraffes on
board, destined for the United States. We did not see them until
we went on board the boat. They are a mild and inoffensive animal,
and feed on dates, bread, and hay. They were under the special care
of a mustapha or janissary of the U. S. Consul, who had engaged to
accompany them to the United States. He had with him two Arabs, for
the twofold purpose of waiting on himself, and taking care of the
giraffes.
The wind up the river was so strong, that we found it much more
difficult to get down than we had found it to ascend; and but for
the energetic character of Mustapha, who had special orders to be
in Alexandria by such a day, we would, in all probability, have
had a long passage. He hurried, and scolded, and used his cowskin
freely on the crew, hardly sparing the captain, with whom he had
some terrible quarrels. The wind was much against us, and we had a
few days that were most oppressively hot. At times we were obliged
to lie by, and the wind covered us with dust and sand. We at last
reached this place, but it took us nearly half as long again as it
did to go up. We did not get back, however, without experiencing
some of the evils of travelling in Egypt. The hot winds and dust met
with on our return, had given sore eyes to all our children. Some
of them could hardly see; and Angelo, who had been our factotum in
all our travels, was entirely laid up with the same complaint; and
under this affliction his heart began to fail him as to the long
voyage on which we were about to enter; and he fairly intimated
that he felt like changing his purpose, and remaining in the East.
He had lived with me above two years. In all my journeys, and
travels, and residences, Angelo never left me. He knew enough of
English to understand the directions I gave him, and enough of
Arabic to have intercourse with the people. I always found him
honest, and faithful, and attentive to my wants and interest. I
tried again and again to teach him to read, but it really seemed
that his talents did not lie that way; after going over the same
lesson twenty times, he still could not make it out; and without
losing his book, he gradually fell into the way of not using it. He
was raised a Catholic, as most of the Maltese are, but had fallen
out with his priest before he left Smyrna, and seemed not inclined
to have much to do with his church. He generally attended family
worship, and either the English or Arabic preaching, but showed a
disposition to let little things keep him away. On the whole, he had
less religious feeling than his advantages ought to have produced.
He always showed much attachment to our children, was a good nurse,
and the children loved him. From the early part of our acquaintance,
he declared his wish to accompany me home; and up to the day of our
reaching Alexandria, I did not doubt that he would do so. I did not
indeed see how we could do without him. But now his heart seemed to
fail him; his eyes were grievously sore--and, possibly, as the time
drew near, he may have had an increase of fears as to how he could
live, where no one could understand his language. I am not sure,
indeed, that a more special cause existed. He had manifested much
kindness of feeling for a young female servant that had spent some
time in our family before we left Beyroot. I could not but think
that the thoughts of having so many thousand miles between them, had
an influence which he did not own, and possibly hardly admitted to
his own mind. However that may be, he expressed a desire to remain,
and we were able to make such arrangements as allowed of it. He
continued his attention to the last day we stayed, and carried with
him our best wishes and prayers, that he prove as good a servant of
Jesus Christ as he has been to us; and meet us again, where all is
love, and purity, and peace.