_Jerusalem, October 10th, 1836._
We left Jerusalem early on the morning of the 8th, for a visit to
Hebron. Being informed that there might be some danger of robbery or
evil treatment on the road, we applied to the governor for a guard,
and received an order to the commandant at the pools of Solomon, the
place where the dangerous district begins, for a guard.
We left the Jaffa gate, and crossing the valley of Gihon, passed
down a pretty plain to the south of Jerusalem towards Bethlehem.
This plain is very fertile, but does not appear to be under
cultivation to any great extent. On several parts of it we saw
orchards of olive and other trees. When near Bethlehem we took the
direct road to Hebron, intending to visit that place on our return.
In the vicinity of Bethlehem is the tomb of the beloved Rachel.
It is a high, oblong mass of masonry, of an old and venerable
appearance. A neat stone building with a dome has been erected over
it.
We saw an encampment of soldiers under the olive-trees to the west
of Bethlehem, and learned that Ibrahim Pasha had attempted to disarm
a powerful tribe of Arabs that reside near the Dead Sea; that they
had proved refractory, and that he had ordered a considerable force
to the neighbourhood, and directed some of the powerful tribes that
acknowledge his authority to aid in the work. There were in the
vicinity of Bethlehem several thousand men, and the disarming of the
tribe was going on.
The whole district about Bethlehem is exceedingly rocky; more so
than usual in this rocky country. This continued the case most of
the way to the pools. The country to our right, that is west of us,
rose higher, and on the side of the ridge were several villages;
most of them had pleasant groves of trees near them, and there were
extensive districts abounding with the olive, and plains finely
adapted for cultivation.
The pools of Solomon are situate about three miles from Bethlehem,
on the road to Hebron. They lie in a ravine that runs east from
a little plain surrounded on all other sides by moderately high
hills. A small spring rises in this plain, and the water from it was
probably made, formerly, to pass through the pools. At present, the
water from the spring, or from some of them,--for there are probably
more than one, although sealed up and conveyed away under ground in
such a way that the water can be seen in but one or two places,--is
conveyed in earthen pipes, set in rock, and under ground along the
side of the pools, until it passes them, and is then made to unite
with the old aqueduct that took the waters from the pools to the
city. Most probably the temple was supplied with waters in this way,
and that the pools were made for this purpose. The distance direct
is about nine miles, and must be increased by the windings necessary
to find a water level. Ibrahim Pasha, since he took possession of
this country, has had the aqueduct repaired. The pools are called
the Pools of Solomon, but it is not with certainty known that he
made them. They are in plan and structure much like the pools in
the valley of Gihon, called the upper and lower pool. They are three
in number, and lie one below another; each may be about six hundred
feet long, and three hundred broad. There is a large building
adjoining them, which may have been intended for a khan. It is now
occupied by the guard of soldiers that are usually stationed here.
The order for a guard was safe in our pockets, but on reaching the
place not a soldier was to be found--what were we to do? There were,
counting our servant and muleteer, and one or two persons who had
joined us on the way, as we supposed for the sake of enjoying our
protection, six or seven of us and two brace of pistols--we did not
therefore hesitate to push forward without a guard; and saw no cause
to regret it. The district we now entered was more rough, rocky,
and hilly, with less cultivation and more wood upon it, than any we
had yet seen. The trees were small, not much higher than a man's
head when mounted on a good horse. It looks much as if it had been
stripped of its trees and the sprouts allowed to grow unmolested
for about two years. Much of the fuel that is used in Jerusalem is
obtained from this district. We met many mules and donkeys loaded
with wood going to the city, and this, I may add, is the usual mode
of transporting wood through this country. Everything is packed on
animals. Wheel-carriages they have none. We also met a number of
_females_ with _large parcels_ of wood on their backs, making their
way towards the city. In some cases they must have to carry it from
six to ten miles. What a labour for females! It is now, as in the
days of old, the women and children sink under the wood. Lam. v. 13.
From many of the hills over which we passed, we had repeated views
of the Dead Sea lying in a long narrow strip from north to south.
For about two hours we passed through a district hilly and very
rocky, and mostly covered with bushes. In many places these were
so abundant as to justify the use of the word _thicket_. These are
the places which are considered the most dangerous, as the robbers
can conceal themselves, and thus with more ease perpetrate their
crimes and escape pursuit. This whole region has once been under
cultivation, and a portion of it is yet. That portion, however, is
small. On the sides of the hills were the remains of terrace-work,
and in many places old buildings and mounds of rock, which showed
the labour of man. We saw several villages in the distance, and
far to the east on a high hill, towns and other indications of
inhabitants. We passed one of the largest and best springs in
Palestine. It rises at the foot of one of the thickest and softest
strata of white limestone rock that I have seen. A number of tombs
were cut in the face of this rock, which may have been eight or ten
feet thick. On first seeing them I thought, from the soft character
of the rock, that they might lead to extensive excavations, but
on examination found this was not the case. We were now within an
hour or two of Hebron. The face of the country improved, more pains
were taken to collect the loose rock into piles or fences, and more
ground was under cultivation. Many villages were seen, at a distance
from our road.
When about three miles from Hebron we turned a little off our road
to the west, to look for an old ruin which was said to be worth
seeing. This led us on higher ground; and gave us a more extensive
view of the country; and I was not a little surprised and pleased
at having a fine view of the whole district to the west, embracing
a part of the hill country of Judea, the southern part of the plain
of Sharon, and the wide-spread Mediterranean sea beyond it. I was,
in fact, on the highest ridge of the hill country, which runs north
and south, and could see below me the secondary ridges and hills,
which extended about half-way to the sea, becoming lower and lower
as they approached the plain--then the plain beyond, and the white
sand-hills and banks along the shore. I fancied that I could see the
south-east corner of the sea near El-Arish, where it turns to the
west--possibly this was fancy. The view, however, was most extensive
and interesting, as I knew that my eyes were ranging over, not only
a large and rich portion of the inheritance of the tribe of Judah,
but also part of the land of the Philistines, those inveterate
and powerful enemies of the people of God. Oh! how often has the
district which I now beheld, witnessed the mustering, and marching,
and warfare of the Philistine against Israel, and the Israelite
against the Philistine.
We now entered a gently declining valley. The soil did not appear
better than usual, but much care and labour had been bestowed on it,
and evidences of this increased as we passed through to the south.
The stones were gathered off--good stone fences were made along
the road--the ground was well set with vines, and for miles we had
nothing on either side of the road but a succession of vineyards
loaded with the most delicious grapes. Surely, thought I, this
must be the valley of Eshcol. It was here the spies procured the
vine loaded with clusters, which they carried into the wilderness
to the astonishment of the whole camp. If my conjecture was not
entirely correct it was nearly so, if the Jews of Hebron are to be
believed, for this, if not the valley of Eshcol, terminates in that
valley about a mile from Hebron. This valley through which we passed
became wider and more rich in its fruits until it joined the other
valley, which comes in more from the west. This second valley is
the widest, has a considerable breadth of level, rich soil finely
cultivated, interspersed with trees, and covered with vineyards.
This is called Eshcol, as we learned from the Jews with whom we
lodged, and who took us out to see it. About a mile up this valley
is pointed out the tree under which they say Abraham received the
angels, Gen. xviii. 4-8. It is the largest tree in the vicinity, is
of the oak kind, which here grows low and sends out many branches,
and looks at a little distance not unlike a large apple-tree. If it
be the self-same tree under which Abraham entertained the angels, it
must have attained a good old age. I am, however, slow to believe
it, although assured of it by a descendant of the patriarch. It
may be a descendant of that tree thus honoured, either direct or
collateral, but that it should have lived until now, does not agree
with the great law of mortality which spares no living thing,
neither man nor beast, animal nor vegetable, since death entered
this world. These, however, are the plains of Mamre, and the good
old patriarch long sojourned, and somewhere on these plains his
tent was pitched, his altar raised, and his worship went up with
acceptance to the God who was "his shield and exceeding great
reward." How many generations have passed away since that time, and
yet his name is known, is dear to the people of these lands--seeing
the "memory of the righteous is blessed!" Abraham had his trials--he
was ordered from the land of his nativity, and, although Canaan
was promised him, he was made to live as a stranger in it, and at
the sufferance of others--while he saw the nations which possessed
it building cities, increasing their defences, and using means to
secure it as an inheritance for their children, he was not allowed
to secure a foot of it, except a burying-place for himself and
family; and although he was promised a numerous posterity, yet
he saw himself and wife getting old, passing the age in which men
become parents, and not one son born to them. Yet he believed and
loved and served God, and the event proved that not one word of
God's promise fell to the ground.
Following this united valley a little to the south-east, we came to
Hebron. The country about it is better cultivated than any district
I have seen. There are many enclosures and vineyards; olive groves
and fig-trees abound. As we drew near the town, we passed several
wells; these, we were told, were, one the well of Jacob, one of
Isaac, and one the well of Abraham; so each of the patriarchs has
one. It at least shows their regard for the memory of these good
men. Hebron stands in the valley; but at a place where the two
ridges, which bound it on either side, are not uniform, but rather
like separate hills placed near each other. While most of the town
stands in the valley, its edges rise in a small degree on four of
the hills by which it is surrounded, but in the greatest degree on
the hill to the south-east. The town has a very old appearance; the
streets are narrow and dirty, and to a great extent arched over,
especially the bazaars. Few of the houses look well; they are placed
uncomfortably close to each other, and are badly aired and lighted.
The bazaars appeared poorly supplied with goods and provisions;
and, on the whole, it was a poorer place than I was led to expect,
from the improved state of the country around it. Much the largest
part of the population is Mohammedan. There are few Christians in
Hebron; we were told, but one family, and that was the family of
the secretary of the governor. We had a letter to him, and expected
to find lodgings with him, but to our regret he was not at home.
While inquiring for him, the governor passed, and ascertaining that
we were travellers, and were recommended to his secretary, he sent
a soldier with us to introduce us to a respectable Jewish family,
who were ordered to take care of us. We were kindly received and
provided for. They showed us the synagogue, which was near our
lodgings. We found a school in operation in the synagogue; the
scholars were reading in the Hebrew Bible. They showed us a most
splendid roll of the law, which they had recently received. It was
fixed on two rollers, so as to roll off the one as it rolled on
to the other, leaving such a part exposed as might serve for the
lesson to be read. The whole put nicely in a case, and fastened with
clasps, and laid away in a closet not far from the reading-desk or
pulpit.
A few years ago, when Ibrahim Pasha's troops took Hebron, they
committed great outrages on the Jews, by plundering them of all they
could find. They broke into their synagogue, and opened all parts of
it in which they thought anything could be found, mutilated and tore
their roll of the law, and perpetrated many other enormities. Hebron
is esteemed by the Jews as a sacred city; and they think it a great
privilege to live here. They pretend that persons, when old, if they
come and live at Hebron, can renew their age. They need not go far
for materials to correct the opinion; for some of them had about
them ample proof that old age and all its infirmities come upon
people at Hebron as certainly and as fast as at other places.
The great mosque, which was probably once a Christian church, stands
over, as we were told, the cave of Machpelah. We were not allowed to
enter it. It is a very large building, and the lower part contains
stones of a very large size. It stands on the side of the hill, at
the south-east part of the city. The palace of the governor joins
it; and it is not improbable that the palace in which David reigned
for seven years was in that quarter. Near the mosque is a very large
cistern, which the Jew, who was our guide, pretended was Sarah's
bathing-house. It was, however, of much more modern formation; the
declaration of the Jew to the contrary notwithstanding.
At the south end of the town is a fine pool. This is the pool, as
is supposed, over which David hung the hands and feet of Rechab and
Baanah, the murderers of Ishbosheth. 2 Sam. iv. 12. It appears to
have been formerly fed by a stream through a small aqueduct, that
comes into it; but the stream is now dry, and the aqueduct out of
order. A short distance to the north of this pool, is another of a
smaller size; but the water in it does not appear as good, nor is it
as much used.
While rambling among the olive-trees that almost cover the hill to
the south-west of the town, we came to the ruins of an old building,
which must have been a place of some consequence formerly, but is
now wholly deserted. Our guide took us into it, and in one of the
rooms showed us a small hole in the wall, which he told us was the
tomb of Jesse, the father of David. The Jews, who were with us,
certainly showed much reverence for the place, pulling off their
shoes, and performing other acts of regard. Whether this be the
grave of Jesse none can tell, nor is it worth much inquiry. It is
not impossible that Jesse may have died at Hebron, notwithstanding
Bethlehem was his usual place of residence. When David came under
the jealousy of Saul, and was obliged to flee, his family fled
with him, and David had to provide for and protect his father and
mother. 1 Sam. xxii. 1-4. It is not unlikely that while he reigned
in Hebron, and the sons of Saul over the rest of Israel, his family
may have resided with him; Jesse, who was an old man when David was
anointed, may have finished his days while his son lived and reigned
at Hebron.
I could not but notice in passing, some piles of wood of a larger
kind than any I had seen in Palestine. It was pine, and cut into
pieces of four or five feet in length. Many pieces were from a foot
to eighteen inches in diameter, which, in this country, is large
growth. I noticed also over their shops, and at other places, pine
branches used as a protection from the sun. On inquiry I was told
that, a few hours to the south-west, there was much wood of that
kind. As the pine, in these countries at least, is seldom found
except in sandy districts, there must be a sandstone formation in
that quarter. Hebron, indeed, lies far south in Palestine, and on
the borders of the wilderness, and probably the limestone formation
terminates not far south of this, and gives place to the sandstone,
which accounts for the immense regions of sand which are met with
in that district. Had time allowed, I would gladly have made a tour
of a day or two to the south, and taken a glimpse of that waste,
howling wilderness in which Israel, for their rebellion, were made
so long to wander. The peculiar circumstances of my companion,
Mr. B----, whose aid I needed as interpreter, imposed on us the
necessity of limiting our time. There is a pretty good road from
Hebron to Gaza and El-Arish on to Egypt, which may be traversed on a
dromedary in four days.
We wished on our return from Hebron to take a route more to the
east, and pass Tekoah and the region of the Dead Sea. We learned,
however, that that district was now in a troubled state, as the
population on it were among those whom the Pasha was disarming,
and some of the more desperate were for keeping out of his reach,
and might, in their ill-humour, injure those who fell in with
them. As we had no guard, we thought it the part of prudence to
keep out of harm's way, and accordingly returned as far as the
pools of Solomon by the same route we had traversed in going to
Hebron. From the pools we went down the hollow in which they are
situate, and followed the course of the aqueduct. This led us over
a new district, and brought us to Bethlehem on the other side. The
district over which we passed was exceedingly rough and rocky. The
hollow, along the side of which we passed, became deep, rough, and
had very little level space at the bottom, and the sides of the
hills that bordered it really appeared given up to rocks and stones.
The little earth, however, that was to be seen, was fertile, for the
rock was a soft limestone, which always forms a good soil.
About half way from the pools to Bethlehem, we passed a place where
the valley spread out so as to leave, for a few hundred yards,
a strip of level land from twenty to fifty yards wide. This was
divided into lots, and walls made across it to prevent the washing
away of the earth. Trees and garden herbs were planted, and the
whole had a most pleasing appearance among the wilderness of rock by
which it is surrounded. On the adjoining hill were a few low huts,
some of them more in the ground than above it, where the owners of
this green spot dwell.
The hills in the immediate vicinity of Bethlehem were finely
terraced, and many olive and fig trees planted. I could not but
notice the number and beauty of the watch-houses or little towers,
which were placed in the vineyards--some of them were round and some
square--made of stone, from ten to fifteen or twenty feet high.
These serve as places from which a watch is kept on the vineyards
during the season of the grape. It is common to watch in this way
their gardens and fruit-trees, as otherwise they might be pillaged.
Reference is made to these towers in Scripture, "as a cottage in
a vineyard,"--"as a lodge in a garden of cucumbers," Isaiah i. 8;
"built a tower in it," (_the vineyard_,) Matt. xxi. 23. The ground
on which Bethlehem stands is rough and uneven. It is a poor-looking
place, and has but a small population. It was swarming with the
Pasha's troops when we were there, and that, as well as other
reasons, made our stay short.
The principal object of attraction here is the Church of the
Nativity. This is a large establishment, and includes in it both a
monastery and church. It properly belongs to the Latins, but is,
in part, a joint concern, as the Greeks have a chapel in it, and
probably some of the other Christian sects. They pretend to show you
the place where our Lord was born, and the manger in which he was
laid. The church is built over them. They may be said to be under
the level of the ground, and in a grotto, as almost all their holy
places are. You descend ten or twelve feet, and approach the place
of nativity through a narrow passage, which is paved, and the sides
faced with polished marble. The place itself is small, and used
somewhat as an altar,--a little recess in the wall. It is almost
filled with lamps, which are kept always burning. The manger is a
few yards to the right, on the other side of the passage. It is also
very richly ornamented, lined in part with silk, and illuminated
with many lamps. From these places a way leads into the Latin and
Greek chapels.
No sooner was our arrival announced than we were beset by a number
of persons with all sorts of trinkets for sale, crosses, large
pieces of mother-of-pearl, with the likeness of some holy person or
thing carved on it, beads, and snuff-boxes. They followed us into
the church, waylaid us in the passages, and beset us in the streets.
A great part of the population are engaged in manufacturing such
things, and they form the chief article of trade at this place. They
were really troublesome in their efforts to induce us to buy, and
they took care to ask a good price.
When about to start, some of our party were detained in the church
after I came out. I waited on my horse, and, as the day was hot, and
the sun beat down with great power, I spread my umbrella over me.
This excited the curiosity not only of the boys and common soldiers,
of whom the place was full, but of some of the inferior officers.
They gathered about me in crowds, and looked at the umbrella on all
sides--wished to understand the mechanism for raising and letting
it down--tried it, and held it over them. They examined my clothes,
especially my shoes, and on the whole, gave the Frank a pretty close
examination as to his exterior. They exhibited great good-nature in
doing it, and appeared much pleased with my willingness to gratify
their curiosity. After leaving the town, we passed many soldiers and
horsemen under the olive-trees which abound in the vicinity. One
of the horsemen joined us in the ride, and took a hat from Angelo,
which he put on his own head, and caught hold of the umbrella of
one of the company, and spread it over him, assuming in pleasantry
great dignity, to the no little amusement of his companions. I have
heard it said that the Turks seldom laugh, and I believe they do
laugh less than Franks; yet I have met with several samples of the
humorous and droll among them that was not a little amusing.
On our return to Jerusalem we learned that a French prince, one of
the sons of Louis Philippe, the present king, had just arrived,
escorted by the governor of Rumla. The governor of Jerusalem and a
number of important personages had gone out to meet and welcome him;
the Catholics were especially assiduous in their attentions--as the
French king, infidel as he is, is considered the protector of the
Catholic church in the eastern part of the Mediterranean. There has
also been a little excitement lately between the Catholics and the
Greeks, as the Catholics have attempted to take possession of some
holy places (they say, only get back) which the Greeks claim. The
Latins had contrived to get an order from Mohammed Ali, it was said,
in favour of their taking them; but the Greeks were not disposed to
yield willingly what they had long possessed and considered as of
right belonging to them. The presence of the son of Louis Philippe
at such a time was important.
The great quantity of rock on the surface, and the little earth
that is at times to be seen, must at first strike the observer as
a great objection to this country, and may lead to the inquiry,
how could such a rocky land be called "the land flowing with milk
and honey"--the glory of all lands? There are many districts that
are sadly encumbered with rock, yet the soil among these rocks is
of a very superior kind, and were the rock somewhat broken up, the
large pieces piled and the small mixed with the soil, it might be
made very productive. There is very striking proof of this in some
districts, as that about Hebron, which abounds with rock, and yet
is covered with the most productive vineyards. As to such a rocky
country being so spoken of in the days of the patriarchs, I suppose
that it was in truth, at that time, the finest of lands; that the
rock which now lies bare in so many places, was then all covered
with earth of the richest kind, which has gradually disappeared in
the wastings, and tillage, and pasturage, of four or five thousand
years. The more I see of Palestine, the more I am persuaded that it
was once one of the first countries in the world. The time was, I
doubt not, when all these rocks were covered with a fine vegetable
mould.