_Bru-ma-nah, July 23d, 1836._
I have just returned from a tour of four days among the mountains.
The ladies rode on donkeys, which are not much larger than the
largest kind of sheep; they have great strength and a pleasant gait.
They are also sure-footed, which in such rough roads is no small
recommendation. I hired a mule, the owner of which, as is usual in
such cases, went along to take care of his animal. The other two
gentlemen had their own horses. It is not here as in Europe, where
you can find taverns and beds. There are no such things here. We, of
course, had to take all things needful for eating and sleeping. We
carried two tents--one for the ladies, the other for the gentlemen;
our bedding, provisions, utensils for cooking, a pot, a pan, plates,
knives, forks, spoons, coffee, tea-cups, sugar, salt, towels, &c.
We required, of course, two or three mules to carry these, and a
servant to take care of them and cook for us. Although our plan was
to take no more than was really necessary, we made quite a cavalcade.
You have, no doubt, heard that coal has lately been found in the
mountains near Beyroot. The chief mine that is worked lies near
a village called Corneil, about three or four hours' ride from
Brumanah, and up near the main ridge of the mountain. Our first
object was to visit those mines which lay south-east of Brumanah. We
passed up the ridge on which Brumanah stands, but gradually wound
along its south-east side, until we reached the bottom of the ravine
which separates it from the ridge which lies to the south. Much of
the higher part of the ridge on which Brumanah stands is of the
sandstone formation; it is, however, singularly mixed with patches
of limestone. We found the ravine a most rugged and rocky one, and
almost wholly of limestone. We saw many loose masses of green stone
at the bottom, which must have been brought from some distance, as
there was no appearance of that rock in sight.
In crossing the next ridge, we passed a village, in the midst of a
well-cultivated spot. There were more trees, and vines, and garden
herbs, than I had seen at any of the villages that I had passed.
The prince of this village has a pretty good-looking palace, of
considerable size. We passed close by it, and as the people within
assembled to see the party of Franks, it gave us an opportunity to
see them. After ascending about half way up this ridge, we again
passed into the sandstone formation, which occupies the top, except
some small locations of limestone, which appears in some strange
way to have got out of its proper place. But of this hereafter. We
passed over this ridge, and at the foot, near the lower part of
the sandstone formation, we found the coal mines. Mr. Brattle, the
English superintendant, received us most kindly, and took us through
and showed us the mine. He has made four or five openings, and finds
ample stores of coal. It is from three to four feet thick--dips a
little into the mountain--has several considerable falls in the
strata, which will require more labour in working it. There is
another mine south of the next ridge, which is also now worked. The
coal is not, however, as good as at the one we visited. None of the
coal yet found is as good as the English coal, but most probably a
further search may discover coal of a better quality.
It is about ten or fifteen years since this coal was first
discovered. Several men were sent to examine it, but were not
skilful, and did not report favourably. There was an attempt to work
it a few years since, but no good resulted. At length Mr. Brattle,
who is acquainted with the business, was induced to come out, and
under his direction they are becoming more and more important. He
labours under great disadvantages, from the absence of most of those
aids and facilities which are so needful in carrying on such work.
He has proved, or is proving, however, that they are valuable.
This coal is carried on mules and donkeys to Beyroot, over a most
villanous road. Were a good road made, and proper coal wagons used,
it would greatly facilitate the matter. But that day is not yet
come. There is no such thing as a wheeled conveyance here, at least
I have seen none, nor the track of one of any description.
There is a great irregularity in the sandstone strata near and
above the coal, it is thrown about in all sorts of ways. But I
shall have occasion to notice this repeatedly in my tour. After
spending several hours at the mine, Mr. Brattle took us to his
house at Corneil (the old palace, the best house in the village),
and entertained and lodged us with great kindness and hospitality.
From the terrace of the palace, which looks towards Beyroot, we had
one of the most splendid views I have ever seen. We saw the sun set
in the ocean behind Cyprus; could distinctly see the island in the
full blaze of the setting sun. It lies so far to the west, that
it is only in peculiar states of the air it can be seen. Corneil
stands on a rocky knoll on the top of a ridge. At this place the
limestone is thrown up, while both above and below on the ridge
the sandstone prevails. It is surrounded with vines, mulberry, fig
and other kinds of trees. But they stop here. This is the highest
point on this part of the mountain where trees are seen. Almost
immediately after leaving Corneil we saw no more trees, not even
bushes, except occasionally a very low evergreen, which appeared to
be a kind of thorn. It grows in bunches, spreads over the ground,
but seldom rises above from six inches to a foot. Occasionally we
saw some heather and fern in wet places, and more frequently furze
and thistle; a few low flowers appeared, and some other mountain
plants that were new to me. The whole face of the mountain was
bare rocks, rocks, rocks. The ridge on which Corneil stands leads
up to a very high point of the mountain called, if I recollect
right, Jebal Knee-se. There are now, it is said, the remains of a
church and monastery on the top. It was a place of some interest as
an ecclesiastical establishment. It really must have looked like
literally getting up, if not _to_ at least _towards_ heaven, to
live upon the top of a mountain which is supposed to be from nine
to ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. It was, no doubt,
a monastic establishment. Why it was deserted I know not. I felt a
wish to visit it, but the labour would have been considerable, and
as another point which lies several hours' ride north-east is still
higher, and is the one that is usually ascended, and as we thought
the ascent of one would be quite enough for our invalids, we passed
round the foot of the high peak of Jebal Knee-se, and made for the
top of the ridge, at a low place between Jebal Knee-se and Jebal
Sun-neen.
The upper part of Jebal Knee-se is regularly stratified limestone,
and horizontal. It has many shells in it; we stopped and collected
some fine specimens of four or five different kinds. About the
middle of the day, we reached the top of the ridge of Lebanon, at
the low place between the two points before named. This place is
above the limits of trees and cultivation. The mountain is barren
even of bushes. There are, however, some of the smaller plants which
I mentioned a few lines above.
We had from this place a fine view of the Bokar, or plain of
Celo-Syria, which lies between Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon. It is a
long and narrow plain--narrow compared with its length. It may be
from fifteen to twenty miles wide, but must be several hundred miles
long. It looked like a dead level. We could see many villages in it,
and groves of trees, and the green fields. It was a lovely sight.
We pitched our tents on the top, and made our dinner, enjoying the
delightful view which lay around us on all sides. The cultivation on
the side next the plain ascended much higher up the mountain than
it did on the north-western side. There were fields of grain but a
short distance below us, so near indeed that one of our muleteers
took down his mule, and let it feed on the grain, and even brought
up a bundle of green wheat which he procured there.
The place on which we pitched our tents was the upper part of the
sandstone formation. There was a good deal of sandstone, breccia
or puddingstone, but near us on all sides the limestone formation
was seen. After the heat of the day was a little over, we set out
north-east along the top of the Mount for the Sun-neen, the high
point which is usually ascended, and on which the most snow is
found. There is a little flat, or nearly flat, space along the top,
on which we found a footpath, much beaten. All over these high
places the sheep and goats and cattle are driven for the sake of
pasture. We saw more flocks on these upper parts of the mountain
than we did on the lower parts.
Not far from our encampment, we passed a place near the upper part
of the sandstone formation, where strata of a peculiar character
cropt out. It split easily into lamina as fine as paper; was
peculiarly elastic. You might roll it up in rolls, and it would,
when let loose, spring back to its former state. It burnt freely.
You might almost make torches of it. It was, no doubt, bituminous
shale. In some places it had more of these properties than others.
The strata was of considerable thickness, as we could see on the
sides of the hollow on which we found it. It lay on the north-west
side, a little below the top of the ridge. Most likely, as the
strata was horizontal, it cropt out also on the south-east side next
the plain of Celo-Syria.
Two or three hours brought us to the foot of Jebal Sun-neen, and up
near the foot of the snows. Here we selected a good spot, and again
pitched our tents; intending to employ the next day in our ascent
to the top and return to the same place. We found it much colder
than it was in the lower parts of the mountain. We really needed
fire; but it was with difficulty that wood enough could be procured
to make our tea, much more to make a fire to warm half-a-dozen
people in the open air. We had, however, expected this, and brought
clothing accordingly, so that we did not suffer much.
In the morning, we began the ascent; we rode nearly an hour, and
took a donkey still farther for the benefit of the ladies; but
then left all our animals, and betook ourselves in good earnest to
the matter of ascending the Mount. On the side which we ascended,
between where we encamped and the top, are two or three offsets,
then the mountain falls off and leaves a kind of level. These
general levels have small ridges and round hills on them, and many
deep valleys and sink-holes, or holes of that peculiar kind which
abound in districts where a horizontal limestone stratum lies on
the surface. In these deep sink-hole places, and in the valleys,
and on the sides of the ridges, the snow was accumulated in great
quantities, but it did not cover the whole surface of the mountain,
as I had supposed it might. But a small part of the mountain had
snow on it. It lay in patches, and possibly not over one-twentieth
part was covered with it. I saw no ice--all was snow. From the
action of the sun and wind, it was just hard enough to walk on with
safety. The foot would sink in it one, two, or three inches--seldom
more. I walked on it in my shoes without inconvenience.
We were three hours in reaching the top--we proceeded slowly, and
stopped frequently to allow the ladies rest. We found the summit
much like the offset, which I have just described. There was what
may be called a general level, of a mile or two across, with many
rises in it, and full of deep holes of various shapes, some nearly
round, others long and narrow. These were full of snow. It was
usually much melted at one side, and the largest masses were, as a
general thing, found lying on the west or south-west side of the
hollow. What appeared most singular, was the fact, that for the most
part, the outsides of this great cone appeared the highest--around
it were the highest knolls, while the inner parts were lower, and
its holes and sinks more deep. The rain and snow water does not seem
to flow over and down the outside of the cone, but sinks in it, and
finds its way out as it can.
The whole upper part of the Mount, from where we pitched our tents,
which was near the sandstone formation, is limestone with its
varieties. It lies horizontally, and is stratified with unusual
regularity. This can be seen with great distinctness on the west
side of the Mount, where the deep hollow, in which a branch of
the river Beyroot heads, terminates against the cone, and makes a
regular, steep, sloping descent of, I should think, from four to
six thousand feet. Near the top, on the west side, I saw a small
spot of fine white marble--much of the rock, indeed, approximates to
marble. High up, at the north-east corner, we found some limestone
breccia, and saw, also, in various places, much arragonite, which is
a peculiar and rare variety of crystallised limestone.
But what gave us most interest were the shells which we found at
many places as we ascended, and also on the top itself. We found
some very fine specimens of them--four or more varieties. I procured
several, nearly as large as a common conch shell; all of them were
petrified. At various places on the side, and also on the summit,
we saw rocks that appeared little else than a mass of shells. As
to when and how they got there, I have at present but little to
say. Of one thing, however, I am fully satisfied, that they do not
contradict the Mosaic account. It is possible that they may, with
other facts which are collecting, prove, finally, that in some
points we have put a wrong construction on the Mosaic account.
Thus it was when the newly received system of astronomy was first
brought forward. It was assailed with more zeal than knowledge, by a
certain class of religionists, who insisted that it was at variance
with the Bible, which said the sun rose and set; whereas, this new
system made the sun stand still and the earth turn round,--and not
only the anathemas of the church, but the fire and fagot were called
into requisition, to maintain the good old received opinion, that
the earth stood still for the quiet of man, and the sun, moon, and
stars, which had nothing else to do, went round and round to give
him light. It was, however, found out at last, that the truth in
astronomy was not at war with truth in revelation--that the earth
might turn round, and move at the same time in its orbit, without
infringing, in the least, against the truths of the Bible. Thus, I
doubt not, it will be found with the geological fossils, which are
now accumulating, and some of them are truly singular. They will be
found to coincide with revelation.
I do fear, indeed, that some weak heads will be injured by these
facts, and that some minds wishing to find occasion against
religion, will eagerly seize these facts, and take it for granted
that they are inconsistent with the Bible account, and will
throw off all regard for that most precious book. Such persons
ought to recollect that geology is a science that is yet in its
_infancy_. That on some of the most important questions that bear
on its relation to the Mosaic account, there is not only a want
of agreement among geologists, but much contrariety of opinion.
Farther, this eastern world, where the main examination ought to
be made, has been but little examined; and still, the Bible will
admit of any explanation, in agreement with these facts, on the same
principles on which explanations in common life are daily received.
The view from the top of Sun-neen was most splendid. We had a most
extensive view of the Bokar, as the Celo-Syria plain is now called.
The great range of the Anti-Lebanon stretched along the farther
side, running parallel to that of the Lebanon. Parts of the former
had snow on them, and especially a high point that lay a good deal
to the south. On the general range of the Anti-Lebanon, there was
less snow; and I should think it a good deal lower than the Lebanon.
It has the same naked and rough appearance, and I am told is even
more rough, more destitute of forests, and less occupied with
villages. To the south, we could see as far as Mount Hermon and the
mountains about the sea of Tiberias. To the north, the plain ran
out till it met the horizon. The whole plain of Celo-Syria appeared
to be a dead level. The mountains rise from it as if they rose out
of a sea. In this it reminded me of the plain of Ephesus, which
stretches up almost to Smyrna. Baalbec can be seen from Sun-neen,
but the state of the air was not favourable to a distant view on the
plain. North of the point of Sun-neen, on which we stood, the main
ridge of the Lebanon sinks a good deal, as it does on the south.
Beyond this low place, at a considerable distance, I should think
a day's travel, say fifteen or twenty miles, it throws up another
high point, or mass of mountains. On this last point, which may be
about as high as the Sun-neen, grow the famous cedars so much spoken
of. Our plan was to have extended our tour so as to visit them and
Baalbec, which stands nearly opposite them, on the other side of the
plain, but some engagements and matters of duty did not allow all
the company to proceed thus far.
Our descent from the top was much more easy and expeditious than
our ascent, owing in part to an experiment we made with complete
success. On the south side of the point a hollow ran up almost to
the top; on the west side of this hollow was a large field of snow,
which extended from near the top to the foot of what I have called
the cone, or down to the second general level. We made a trial of
how we could descend on the snow, and found that, by keeping near
the edge, and walking with care, sticking the heel with a little
force in it, we could get along with much more ease and expedition
than we could over the rough and exceedingly rocky ground. Our
descent to our horses was soon accomplished; and just as the sun
went down under the western wave, we arrived at our tents, a little
tired it is true, but greatly gratified in having reached the top
of that "goodly mountain and Lebanon," perhaps the most interesting
mountain in the world.
While we were on the Mount, the day, as it shone on us, was
perfectly clear; the general state of the air, when we were shaded
with an umbrella, or under the shade of a rock, was pleasant. The
direct force of the sun was, however, warm. We were above the
clouds, and had a most interesting view of their forming far, far
below us, and especially on the sea. Soon after mid-day they began
to form on the far distant horizon over the sea, and continued to
increase until a large part of it was covered; and about the time
we reached the foot of the cone, where we had left our horses, the
clouds exhibited a most brilliant spectacle. A small strip of the
sea, near the foot of the mountain, had no clouds on it. It lay
smooth, like a frozen lake. The remainder, in all directions as for
as the eye could reach, was covered with immense masses of clouds,
which appeared to us like hills of cotton or wool upon the waters.
It reminded me of some of those great plains of the valley of the
Mississippi, covered with its immense forests, as seen from some
high point of the Alleghany or Cumberland range, after the fall of a
heavy snow. The clouds appeared about as high above the water as the
western groves rise above the plain--the irregularity of hill and
dale, and the fleecy whiteness of the clouds, as we looked upon the
upper part, which was strongly illuminated by the sun, corresponded
well with groves loaded with the new-fallen snow in all its virgin
purity.
To make the scene still more interesting, a wind set in from the
sea, and drove the masses of clouds against the mountains. We saw
the plains covered and again laid bare, as masses of clouds, like
the irregular columns of an army, passed over it--drove against
the mountains--rose higher and higher up its sides--and at last
swept over us and by us in huge piles. It was not one large dense
cloud, but a multitude of clouds of various sizes, and at different
heights. The sun pouring its flood of light upon these masses, so
various in height and density and rapidity of motion, presented the
most brilliant and perpetually varying spectacle that I have ever
seen. We had all the variety of tints and colouring that light and
shade can make, and that ever-changing aspect which is presented by
the kaleidoscope. There was, however, no rain; for while we often
have clouds on these mountains, there has no rain fallen since I
reached Beyroot, which is now more than six weeks.
We spent the night at the foot of the snows, where the former night
was passed; and having packed our minerals, shells, and flowers,
which we had collected, set off for Bru-ma-nah. We took a more
direct road than the one by which we came, as we wished to see as
much of the mountain as possible. We passed along a great ridge
that ran from our tents, at the foot of the cone, with various
irregularities, on to Bru-ma-nah. We found it much as the ridge on
which the coal-pits of Corneil are situate. The upper part of it
much of the way is of the sandstone formation. On the higher part
of this is a stratum of very fine puddingstone. Almost everywhere,
in this sandstone formation, we find petrified wood, much iron ore,
iron stone, and at many places slate, and all the indications of
coal. There can be no doubt that coal exists extensively in this
formation; and, from the tour which we made, I should think that
from one-sixth to one-fourth of this ridge was of the sandstone
formation. It lies about midway up the mountain; has, generally
considered, a horizontal position; but is at many places most
singularly thrown out of its place. At the heads of hollows, and at
the points of ridges, and often in other places, the limestone seems
forced up, but retains its horizontal position: at other places, the
sandstone is suddenly cut off, and begins again at a great distance
above or below;--but my paper is full.