_Beyroot, June 18th, 1836._
After a stay of twenty-four hours at Cyprus, rendered pleasant by
the several interviews which we had with the missionaries at that
place, we sailed about three o'clock P. M. with a fine wind, and
before night, the isle, and even the mountains of Cyprus, were
sinking out of view in the north-western waters. In the night our
winds became light. At a little past five in the morning I went on
deck, hoping to see the top of Mount Lebanon, which, from our run,
I thought must be within the reach of the eye; but a dull heavy fog
lay on our eastern horizon, and limited our view. Just as I was
finishing my breakfast, the captain put his head down the hatchway,
and let me know that the mountains could be seen. I ran on deck, and
could see the faint outline of the top of Mount Lebanon, peering
above a long line of fog that spread like a wide circle round the
horizon. The upper part of the fog was breaking into irregular
masses and rolling off; at times the mountain could at some points
be seen very clearly; then, again, the fog or clouds would close in
upon it, and hide it from our view. The highest parts of it were
partially covered with snow. It lay, however, in parts and parcels;
and often in long irregular forms. This was owing, most probably,
to the form of the ground on which it lay; being most abundant in
hollows, and on the north sides of ridges.
Great is the power of association. From my childhood, I have been
taught to read the book of God, and prize its precious truths; and I
bless God, and thank my dear and beloved parents, more for this, the
religious instruction they gave me, and their prayers, than for all
other benefits received through them; and they have not been few.
Mount Lebanon I found often, very often, referred to in that best of
all books; and, from the various ways in which it is introduced, it
associates itself in my mind with many parts of Scripture history;
with some of its most touching incidents; with many of its most
precious and consoling truths. How often in my boyhood, and even in
more mature days, have I wished, like Moses, that I could see that
"goodly mountain and Lebanon!" Now, indeed and in truth, I saw it
rising into view, and hoped before long to land at its foot, and in
due time to traverse its ridges, visit its cedars, and drink of its
pure snow waters. I was born and grew to manhood among mountains,
and it is natural for me to love mountain scenery. A landscape is
to my eye,--I was going to say, defective,--that does not give, at
least, a glimpse of a mountain.
I was often much struck with my feelings on this matter, during
the ten or fifteen years I have spent in situations in which no
mountains could be seen. When a journey of business or pleasure led
me to the neighbourhood of mountains, they appeared to have a beauty
and a charm in them, that rose paramount to all that the wide and
extended plains could have.
But never did I feel such pulsations of delight from beholding a
single mountain as now from looking at that "goodly mountain and
Lebanon"--that Lebanon so associated with patriarchs and prophets,
with the Land of Promise, with the Temple of the Lord, and with
those thousand things which give such ever newness and freshness to
the oracles of God.
As the day passed away, we drew nearer and nearer, but our winds
were so light, that our approach was slow, and a peculiar haziness
of weather much impeded our view of the changing aspect of the
mountain. Beyroot came in view towards night; but, owing to the
lightness of wind, and that against us, we did not reach it until
about sunrise next morning.
Beyroot lies at the south side of the river Beyroot, which runs in
from the mountains. The coast recedes at this place, and forms a
wide, open, halfmoon-like kind of a bay. A small part of the town
lying near the water appears pretty closely built; but much of the
town, or very many houses, stand out over the gentle rise of the
hill, with gardens connected with them. Indeed, the whole face of
the plain and ridge, on which the town stands, is quite covered with
trees. The trees are not large, being many of them mulberry, almond,
(the pride of China I think it is called), a few olive and apricot,
&c. I have seen no place in the East that struck me more pleasantly
than Beyroot.
The mountains behind it rise in succession. They have a good many
trees on them, but are not entirely covered. They appear to be
rather confined to spots as if planted by man, and cultivated for
special purposes. With the help of a glass, I can see that, while a
small growth is more generally spread over the side of the mountain,
there are many places where a much larger growth may be seen. But I
must omit farther notice of this until I have rambled over them, and
ascertained their true character.
We learned, on communicating with the shore, that there had been
several cases of plague, that the quarantine was strict, and that we
should have nearly two weeks' quarantine to pass, before we would be
allowed to have free intercourse with the friends we hoped to find
there.
In the course of the day our consul came off, and informed us that
he had procured for us a house in a healthy and airy part of the
suburbs, in which we must pass our quarantine. Mr. B. also, who is
connected with the mission at this place, came off to see us. From
him we learned that the Rev. E. B. Smith and lady had, within four
or five days, left this for Smyrna, partly on account of Mrs. S.'s
health, which has lately failed much; and that the other families
were on the mountains, about three or four hours' ride from town.