BOXES FOR SURPLUS HONEY.
IN the last chapter instructions were given when to put on boxes, but
it is important to know more about this subject, the kind of boxes to
use, etc. I shall recommend two sizes, two pound and one pound. The
larger size, with glass sides and ends, top and bottom, and corners
wood; the smaller size, all wood.
Seventy-six of the small size and thirty-eight of the large size will
fit each Controllable Hive, or part of each size can be used on the
same hive at same time. The large boxes are just wide enough to contain
two combs; the small ones, one comb. These boxes fit the sides and top
of Controllable Hive. The bees enter the top boxes through spaces in
bottom of the box. They enter the side boxes through spaces at the ends
of the boxes. (For a more particular description of the boxes and their
adjustment to the hives, see Drawings or a Complete Controllable Hive.)
Before giving the bees access to the boxes, stick a piece of comb or
comb foundation in the top of each box where you wish the combs built,
a piece one or two inches square to hold them firmly in place. Melt
resin and bees wax equal parts, dip the edges in the mixture and apply
while hot.
Honey in these boxes is very attractive, and is sought for in the
market by customers who have purchased in this form. Honey put up in
these nice boxes shows its superior quality at a glance, and customers
prefer to purchase in such boxes with no tare deducted for weight of
box, to purchasing in the ordinary wood box with the weight of the box
deducted.
In taking these boxes from the hive,[3] when filled with honey, in warm
weather I recommend the following method: Take the boxes off early in
the morning, and carry them to some out-building, and put them in a
clean, tight box or barrel; place the boxes in such a manner that the
openings in the boxes will be free for the passage of the bees from
them. Spread over the box or barrel, a thin piece of cloth. The bees
will leave the boxes and collect on the under side of the cloth, which
must be turned every few minutes, until all are out, except a few
drones and very young bees; these can be taken out with a pencil. To
facilitate the removal of the bees from the boxes, if any are obstinate
about leaving, remove the glass in the sides of the boxes, if the
cover is not fastened to it. The greater part of the bees from these
boxes will return to their hives; excepting a very few young ones which
had never before been away from the hive; these will be lost.
[Footnote 3: When the box frames or partitions are taken out in the
honey season, the bees will often, if the stock is strong, spread out
over the bottom, so that in putting the frame in, a large number will
get crushed. To prevent this, get out two pieces of wood, each about
one and one-half inches wide, and one-fourth inch thick, one eighteen
inches long the other twenty-two Inches long; one edge of the long
piece bevel to a thin edge, about the shape of a carpenter's chisel.
Nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short piece at
right angles with it, with the beveled edge down, so the beveled edge
will be level with the end of the short piece; also bevel the lower end
of the short piece. When the bees are spread over the bottom of the
box section, with this instrument push them gently back to the brood
section. To do this thrust the instrument down into the box section
with the beveled edge down; taking hold of the end of the short piece
or handle, work the bees gently back to the brood section, and when
close up to the combs of the hive, let it remain to keep the bees
from spreading over the bottom till you get the box frame down in its
place, then remove it, and push the box frame up close to the brood
section, so the ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs as
the partition was when the combs were built. If this is not done, and
a large space is left, the bees will either lengthen the cells in the
outer comb of the brood section, or build a new comb between the ends
of the boxes and the outer comb of the brood section. In either case we
would find it very troublesome when we remove the boxes, and wish to
put in the partition for wintering. Be sure to put the large box frame
up close to the combs of the brood section, that is leave barely space
enough for the bees to pass between the ends of the boxes and the outer
comb of the brood section.]
When boxes are to be taken off, use tobacco smoke freely, to quiet the
anger of the bees. Puff smoke in at the entrance of the hive, before
you touch it, then start the top boxes from their fastenings, giving
the bees a puff or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the
top and sides.
CARE OF HONEY IN BOXES IN WARM WEATHER.
Considerable care is necessary for the preservation of honey in boxes
removed from the hives in warm weather. As soon as the bees are all out
of the boxes, seal up all openings to the boxes, and set them away (in
the same position they occupied in the hive, so the honey will not leak
from the cells) in a dry, dark, cool room. We must now guard against
the moth.
As in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed to the dead
carcass, so is the moth directed to honey-comb left without bees in
the summer season, and by a similar process is each destroyed. When
the bees have been off about ten days, or perhaps a little less if the
weather is very warm, examine closely for the first appearance of the
moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes. Their presence may
be known by small thread-like webs or cocoons on the surface of the
comb, growing larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth. If no remedy
is applied, these worms will completely destroy the beauty of the honey
in the boxes in a very few days. Watch the boxes closely, and on the
first appearance of the least sign of worms in the boxes fumigate with
burning sulphur, thus: Open the passages in the boxes; have ready a
tight, clean box; saturate some very dry pine shavings with melted
sulphur. After placing your boxes of honey in the box, set a saucer or
plate in the box at the bottom, away from the honey boxes, so they will
not take fire. Do not use too many shavings; if you do it will injure
the honey comb in the boxes, by giving it a green color, and imparting
to it a disagreeable taste; a half dozen shavings each four inches long
is enough. Place them in the dish and ignite them, and cover closely,
so no fumes can escape; let them remain for a few minutes,--not more
than five, less is often sufficient; it depends something on the amount
of sulphur adhering to the shavings, as well as the size of box, number
of boxes to be fumigated, etc. With a little practice you will manage
correctly and successfully. As soon as the boxes are fumigated, seal
up every opening carefully, and set away as before directed, in a dry,
dark, cool room. Watch the boxes for a few days, to be sure the worms
are all killed. If you find they are not, give them another dose of the
sulphur. After the worms are all killed, and every opening to the box
sealed up, wrap each box separately in paper, and they will be safe
through the summer.
How the eggs of the moth get into the boxes, has always puzzled bee
keepers. It is hardly possible for the moth miller to pass through a
hive crowded with bees, to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes. How
they get there must be guess-work--that they are there is well known
to many bee keepers. I feel very confident that the eggs are deposited
there after the boxes are taken from the hive, and while we are getting
the bees out of the boxes.
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