Duque de Abrantes, and contains the best _retablo_ in the Cathedral. On
it are displayed incidents in the Life of Christ which spring from and
are enclosed by the branches of a genealogical tree. It is a quaint idea
very well carried out.
It is a difficult task to try and give an idea of the contents and
admirable style of all these chapels in the space of a short chapter,
suffice it to say that they are, one and all, worthy pendants to the
rest of the great church, and exemplify in their contents the glorious
age of the ruling bishops and nobility of Old Castile.
In the south transept is a wonderful low doorway in front of which I had
often stood examining the well-carved wooden panels on the doors
themselves. It leads into the cloisters, but it was not until I had
become thoroughly acquainted with the groups representing the Entry into
Jerusalem and the Descent into Hades which grace this portal, that I
passed through. The door dates from the early fifteenth century and
considering the many thousands of times it has swung open and shut is in
most excellent preservation.
The cloisters are fourteenth-century work and form an upper storey to a
basement cloister of low arches surrounding a courtyard which at the
time of my visit was undergoing extensive repair. In the centre is a
huge cross; the flagstones of the court were all up, and the bones from
many disturbed graves were being thrown into a pit. The beautiful
cloisters proper are filled with modern opaque glass--"Muy frio"
answered the verger to my question, "Por que?"--and no doubt it is in
the winter months. But the charm about a cloister is the vista through
the arches; this Burgos has lost for the sake of the well-being of her
priests; the pity is that funds would not allow of better glass when the
utilitarian aspect demanded the shutting out of the cold winds.
The sacristy on the east side of the cloisters is a very beautiful early
fifteenth-century room with a fine groined roof, the peculiarity of
which is that it has no supporting columns. The half-piers end in
corbels of hunting scenes and I daresay have often recalled to many a
priest days of his early boyhood.
The Chapter House, with an artesonade ceiling, contains some good
pictures and is reached through the Capilla del Corpus Christi. High up
on the wall of this chapel, and fixed to it with iron clamps, is the
Cofre del Cid, a wooden coffer which the Campeador filled with sand, and
telling the Jews it was full of gold, raised six hundred marks. He
redeemed the pledge later on and paid up the sum he had borrowed. The
tomb of Enrique III.'s head cook, who is lying in armour with a sword,
occupies a space on the floor. He was not a bad-looking man and I
daresay took his turn at the enemy and used his sword when occasion
offered. Street writes of these cloisters--"I know none more interesting
and more varied"--but I left them and the many fine tombs and statues
they contain wishing that priests were not mortal nor liable to chills.
[Illustration: BURGOS. ARCH OF SANTA MARIA]
The capital of Old Castile is a quiet little place and I felt I was in a
northern clime far away from the charm of Andalusia and the south. The
name Burgos is of Iberian origin, "Briga" signifying "a fortified hill."
Founded as long ago as 884 by Diego de Porcelos, it was for many
generations the capital of Castile. At the marriage of Ferdinand I. in
1067 Castile and Leon became one and ten years later the seat of
Government was removed by Alfonso VI. to Toledo. Serious troubles ensued
between the inhabitants of the two cities. Old Castile could not brook
the interference of the great archbishops of New Castile and the loss of
prestige attached to royalty and its court.
In Charles V.'s reign Burgos joined the Comunéros, the opponents of
centralised government, but was wisely pardoned with other towns by the
King, who held a court in state for this purpose in the Plaza Mayor at
Valladolid. As a result of this forgiveness the inhabitants erected the
fine entrance gateway of Santa Maria of which I made a sketch. Since
that day, except for Wellington's futile sieges, Burgos has slept the
sleep of the just and being an eminently ecclesiastical city will
continue in this happy state.
Much of interest lies tucked away in the narrow streets. There is the
Casa del Cordon, at one time the palace of the Velasco family, and a
royal residence. Within its walls the Catholic Kings received Columbus
on his return from the New World, and here was signed the incorporation
of Navarre with Castile. This fine example of a town house is flanked by
two square towers, with a rope from which it takes its name carved over
the portal. The Casa de Miranda, with a noble courtyard and
well-proportioned fluted columns, near which is the Casa de Angulo a
strong fortress-like building. The façade of the old Collegio de San
Nicolas is replete with fine workmanship and the church of this name
with tombs. The richly-carved stone _retablo_, illustrating events of
the saint's life, is also a work of real art. Under the wall of the
cemetery stood the house wherein the Cid was born, and in the Castle on
the hill, now a ruin, he was married. The nuptials of Edward I. of
England with Eleanor of Castile were celebrated in this fortress, which
can also claim the birth of Pedro the Cruel.
For a provincial town Burgos possesses a most interesting museum. Among
the many relics I saw was a bronze altar font with coloured enamels of
saints and a Moorish ivory casket, both from the monastery of San
Domingo de Silos. The fine kneeling figure in alabaster of Juan de
Padilla, who lost his life at an early age during one of the sieges of
Granada, is almost as beautiful as that of the Infante Alfonso in the
Cartuja. Roman and mediæval remains, found at different times and taken
from disestablished convents, added to the interest of a short visit.
There is so much to see in Burgos and its surroundings, and the seeing
of it all is so pleasant, so undisturbed, and so different to the south,
where for ever I was annoyed by touting loafers and irrepressible boys,
that when I left it was with feelings of great regret.
[Illustration]
Across the river, about an hour's walk one morning brought me to the
Convent of Las Huelgas, which is still inhabited by shy nuns. Founded in
1187 by Alfonso VIII. it has always loomed large in the history of
Castile. Many of her kings have kept vigil before the High Altar, when
receiving knighthood, our own Edward I. among them. Many royal pairs
have been wedded within the church, and many sleep their long sleep
within its quiet precincts. The Abbess was mitred, she possessed powers
of life and death, she ranked as a Princess-palatine next to the Queen,
and she was styled "Por la gracia de Dios." Her nuns were, and still
are, daughters of noble houses, and some even of royal birth. In the
chapel of Santiago hangs a copy of the embroidered banner captured at
the great fight of Las Navas de Tolosa, a victory which crippled and
drove out the Infidel from the north. The original hangs in the nun's
choir, a fitting pendant to the splendid tapestries which cover the
walls. I was told of other treasures invisible to the eye of man and
once again wished I could have changed my sex for a short time. Being
mere man, I heard the gate shut as I left the convent with a rather
crestfallen feeling, so walked another half-mile on to the Hospital del
Rey.
Alfonso VIII. built this Hospice for pilgrims _en route_ to Santiago.
But little remains of the original building, though the Renaissance
façade and thirteenth-century doorway, with curious figures of Adam and
Eve, repaid me for my extra trudge and I returned to my hotel with the
imagined slight dissipated and my _amour propre_ restored.
My last pilgrimage in Spain happened one cold afternoon when I went out
to the Cartuja de Miraflores. The clouds hung low over the hills and the
damp smell of autumn was in the air. The road thither passes through
avenues of great poplars. The leaves had begun to fall and it was wet
under foot. A slight drizzle was imperceptibly saturating everything and
I thought the time of my departure from sunny Spain not ill-chosen.
Despite all this, and the depressing day, I can always recall with
pleasure the road that my companion and I traversed before we passed
under the arch that marks the monastic boundary.
Beggars accosted us at the door of the monastery, for once I gave them
alms and received a blessing. We passed in, and found ourselves in a
pretty little courtyard filled with dahlias and other autumnal flowers.
The bright colours cheered us a bit, the church lay on our left, we
entered it under a Gothic arch. A monk in the stalls was at prayer, he
also kept an observant eye on the two visitors. Our footsteps seemed to
sound intensely loud on the stone pavement, and we spoke in very low
whispers. The cold white-washed walls and this solitary figure droning
out his prayers were depressing.
We furtively admired the finely-carved stalls, the grand _retablo_ over
the High Altar with its terribly life-like crucifix, all the time with a
feeling on my part of that vigilant eye boring a hole in my back like a
gimlet. We next examined the alabaster tomb the masterpiece of Gil de
Siloe, executed to the order of Isabella the Catholic, which stands in
front of the altar. Juan II. and his wife Isabella of Portugal lie side
by side clothed in their robes of state. At his feet are two Lions, at
hers a Lion and a Dog. I forgot the solitary monk and the gimlet stopped
its work as I became lost in admiration while following the intricacies
of Gil de Siloe's greatest production.
At the eight corners of this magnificent tomb, most undoubtedly the
finest I have ever seen, and by some considered unsurpassed in Europe,
sixteen lions support the royal arms, above them along the cornice
beautiful little statuettes stand under canopies which are a marvel of
delicate tracery. The embroidery on the robes of the royal pair is
exquisite and the imitation of the lace work unsurpassed.
For a long time we stood discussing and admiring the marvellous
cleverness of the designer of a monument which is worthy of the great
and pious woman who erected it to the memory of her parents.
Hard by in the west wall of the church is the tomb of the Infante
Alfonso, whose death at the early age of sixteen left the accession
vacant for Isabella and so changed the history of Castile. It is
likewise a wonderful piece of work by the same skilful hand. The young
Prince kneels alone in an attitude of prayer which gains dignity from
the half-shadow thrown by the recess in which the monument is placed.
The arch above is decorated with a twining vine, while men-at-arms
support the tomb.
We turned from the contemplation of these two memorials and the monotone
of the old monk's prayer filled the church. I think we both shared a
feeling of relief when we found ourselves once more outside under the
grey sky, though I shall ever remember the impression of that aisleless
church with its magnificent tombs, that white robed monk with his
droning voice, the chill of the autumn air and those long lines of
stately poplars under which I passed in my last pilgrimage in Spain.
INDEX
Abderrhaman, mosque of, 80
Adrian IV., Pope, 81
Albornoz, Cardinal, tomb of, 111
Alfonso VI., 234, 235
Alfonso VIII., 245
Alfonso de Cartagena, Bishop, 240
Alfonso el Catolico, 197;
coffin of, 220
Alfonso the Chaste, 218, 220
Alfonso the Learned, sarcophagus of, 10
Alfonso de los Rios, 238
Alhambra, 31, 46, _sqq._
Court of Lions, 50
Almakkari, historian, 23
Almanzor, 200
Alva Garcia, 138
Alvaro de Luna, 232
Antequerra, 48
Arabic documents, 230
Aragon, union of, with Castile, 67
Arfe, silver monstrance by, 142
Arfe, Juan de, 228
Arlanzón, river, 233
Astorga, 193-198
Cathedral, 193, _sqq._
Historical sketch, 197
Augustus, Emperor, 84
Averroes, 30
Avila, 137-144
Cathedral, 81, 138
Avila, Historical sketch, 137
Avila, tomb of, 143
Badajos, Juan de, 215
Baeza, 195
Barcelona, 83, 91-99
Cathedral, 92, _sqq._
Church of San Pablo del Campo, 94
Church of Santa Marica del Mar, 95
Church of Santa Marica del Pi, 95
Historical sketch, 91, _sqq._
Rambla, 97
Barceloneta, suburb of Barcelona, 96
Bartolomé, and the Capilla Real, Granada, 39
Beatrice of Swabia, sarcophagus of, 10
Becerra, Gaspar, 195
Beggars, at Cordova, 29, 30;
at Seville, 30, 35;
at Madrid, 30
Bernardo de Aragon, tomb of, 164
Berruguete, carvings by, 113, 141, 228
Boabdil, figure of, at Granada, 41
Brutus, Junius, founds colony on the Turia, 66
Bull-fights, at Seville, 20
Burgos, 233-248
Capilla del Condestable, 238
Capilla del Corpus Christi, 242
Capilla de la Presentacion, 239
Capilla de San Enrique, 240
Capilla del Santissimo Cristo, 239
Cathedral, 233, _sqq._
Chapel of Santa Anna, 240
Church of San Domingo de Silos, 244
Church of San Juan de Sahagun, 240
Convent of las Huelgas, 245
Collegio de San Nicolas, 244
Historical sketch, 234, _sqq._
Museum, 244
Cadiz, 1-5
Académia de Bellas Artes, 4
Cathedral, 3, 4
Historical sketch, 3
Mercado, 4
Cæsar, Julius, captures Seville, 7
Calix at Valencia, 71
Campaña, Pedro, pictures at Seville, 12
Cano, Alonso, pictures by, at Cadiz, 4;
at Seville, 11, 12;
builds façade of Cathedral at Granada, 38;
pictures by, 38;
pictures by, at Malaga, 60;
figure by at Segovia, 151
Cartuja de Miraflores, 246
Casa Consistorial, Barcelona, 95
Casa del Cordon, Burgos, 243
Cataluña, union with Aragon, 92
Cervantes, house of, 232
Charles V., palace of, 54;
arms of, 236
Chartres Cathedral, 211
Chirriguera, High Altar by, 129, 141, 228
Cid, the, 65, 201
Cofre del Cid, 242
Columbus, monument at Seville, 11;
house of, 232
Comunéros, 243
Cordova, 23-30
Capilla de Nuestra Señorade Villavicosia, 25
Cathedral, 24, _sqq._
Convent de San Jeronimo, 30
Historical sketch, 23, 24
Mosques, 24, 25
Cornielis, work of, 141
Corre de Sol, Granada, 55
Cristóbal, carving by, at Tortosa, 81
Dalman de Mur, High Altar by, 164
Damian Forment, retablo, 166, 167
Darro, river at Granada, 31, 33, 34, 37
De Gainza, Martin, 10
Diego de Porcelos, 242
Diego de Siloe, plans Cathedral at Granada, 38;
at Malaga, 59
Duque de Lerma, 226
Edward I., marriage of, 244, 245
El Calvario, 150
El Campanario, tower at Cordova, 27
El Cristo de la Luz, Toledo, 115
El Grao, port of Valencia, 67
El Parral, Segovia, 154
El Transito, Toledo, 114
Englefield, Sir Francis, 232
Escovedo, Juan, 150
Essex, siege of Cadiz by Lord, 4
Ferdinand I., 200, marriage of, 243
Ferdinand and Isabella, monument at Granada, 40;
portraits, 41, 44, 225;
arms of, 227
Ferdinand el Santos, 234, 235
Francisco de Lara, ceiling by, 112
Francisco de Palenzuela, tomb of, 126
Fruela I., coffin of, 220
Gallegos, panels by, 203
Gayá, 84
Genil, river at Granada, 34
Geromino, tomb of, 126
Geronimo, 200
Gerona, 101-10
Cathedral, 103, _sqq._
Church of San Pedro de los Gallegans, 105
Historical sketch, 101, _sqq._
Gibraltar, 58
Gil de Siloe, 247
Giralda Tower, Seville, 13, 14
Gomar, Francisco, work at Tarragona, 86
Gonzalo de Cordoba, 45
Grado, Canon Juan de, tomb of, 204
Granada, 31-35
Albaicin, 31
Alhambra, 31, _sqq._
Antequeruela, 31
Capilla de la Antigue, 39
Capilla de Pulgar, 44
Capilla Real, 42
Capilla de Trinidad, 38
Cathedral, 38, 44
Church of San Juan de los Reyes, 44
Church of San Nicólas, 44
Church of Santa Anna, 44
Convent of Cartuja, 45
Convent of San Geronimo, 45
Greek remains, Tuy, 183
Guadalete, river at Cadiz, 5;
battle on banks of, 58
Guadalquiver, position of Cordova on, 23
Guadelmedina, the, 61
Guillermo Boffy, 104
Gutierrez, Bishop, 219
Hernandez, 229, 230
Hontañon, rebuilt dome of Seville Cathedral, 12;
Salamanca Cathedral, 125;
Segovia, 150
Hospital de Santa Cruz, Toledo, 116
Infante Alfonso, tomb of, 248
Inigo de Mendoz, tomb of, 112
James I., of Aragon, armour of at Valencia, 70;
tomb of, 86
Jews at Seville, 15
John of Cologne, 234, 238
John of Gaunt, 178
José Granados, builds western facade of Cathedral, Granada, 38
Juan II., 24
Juan Bantista Celma, 178
Juan, Prince, tomb of, 142
Juan de Borgoña, frescoes by, 112, 141
Juan de Castro, 178
Juan de Juni, 228
Juan de Mena, 30
Juan de Padilla, figure of, 244
Juan de Vallejo, 237
Juanes, _Last Supper_ by, 71
La Magdena, Zamora, 201
Lanfredo, Bishop, 80
La Peña Gajera, 154
La Peñarala, 158
Las Navas de Tolosa, 245
Leon, 205-216
Cathedral, 209
Chapel of La Nuestra Señora del Dado, 213
Convent of San Isidoro el Real, 214
Convent of San Marcos, 215
Historical sketch, 205, _sqq._
Leovigild, 205
Loja, 48
Loyola, relic of, 95
Lucan, 30
Madrazo, designs by, 210
Maestro Matio, portrait of, 176
Malaga, 57-63
Alcazába, 61
Cathedral, 59
Historical sketch, 57, _sqq._
Mercado, 61
Malagueta, river, 61
Manrique de Lara, Bishop, 210
Maragatos, the, 195
Marcellus peoples Cordova, 23
Maria Padilla, mistress of Pedro the Cruel, coffin of, 10
Maurice, Bishop, 234, 235
Mena, Pedro de, pupil of Cano, 60
Mendoza, Cardinal, 219
Meshwâr, 53
Miguelete Tower, 66
Minho, river, 183
Monte Mauro, 34
Morales, 30
Mulhacen, 48
Murillo, pictures at Cadiz, 4;
_San Antonio de Padua_ at Seville, 11;
in Seville Museum, 20
Museum, Seville, 20
Napoleonic Wars, 67
Naranco, 223
Church of Santa Maria, 223, 224
Nicodemus, 239
Nicolas Florentino, retablo by, 128
Nicolas de Vergara, carving by, 113
Notre Dame de Paris, 211
Oca, Bishop, 235
Oñar, river, 102
Ordoño I., coffin of, 220
Ordoño II., 213
Orense, 187-191
Cathedral, 187, _sqq._
Convent of San Francisco, 190
Historical sketch, 187
Oviedo, 217-224
Capilla del Rey Casto, 220
Cathedral, 218
Historical sketch, 218, _sqq._
Panteon, Leon, 215
Parapanda, Mount, 48
Pedro the Cruel, coffin of, 10;
trees planted by, 14
Pedro Mato, statue of, 195
Pelayo, 222
Petrucci Orto, chalice by, 142
Philip II. destroys mosques at Cordova, 24
Philip Vigarni, 237, 238
Philip and Juana la Loca, tomb of, at Granada, 40;
coffins of, 42
Pisuerga, river, 225
Pliny quoted, 197
Pradas, work of, at Granada, 43
Quintata, Cardinal, tomb of, 190
Ramiro II., 200
Ramiro, coffin of, 220
Ramon Berenguer I., Count, 91
Ramon Berenguer II., and Emensendis, tombs of, 104
Reus, 83
Ribalta, painting by, at Valencia, 71
Ribera, _Adoration_ by, 71
Roman remains, at Tarragona, 84;
at Segovia, 149
Roman Sculpture at Tarragona, 89
Salamanca, 121-135
Capilla del Carmen, 126
Capilla Mayor, 128
Capilla de San Bartolomé, 128
Capilla de Talavera, 128
Cathedrals, 121, 124, _sqq._, 127
Church of San Pedro, 143
Collegio Mayor de Santiago Apostol, 132
Convent of las Agustinas Recoletas, 130
Grammar School, 131
Historical sketch, 123, _sqq._
University, 131
San Pedro, river at Cadiz, 5
Santa Eulalia, body of, 93, 220
Santiago, 171-181
Cathedral, 173, _sqq._
Collegio de San Gerónimo, 180
Historical sketch, 172
Santos Cruz, pictures by, 141
Saragossa, 101, 159-170
Church of San Pablo, 167
Cathedrals, 162, _sqq._
El Pilar, 165
Historical sketch, 159, _sqq._
La Seo, 162, _sqq._
Sebastian del Piombo, 239
Segovia, 145-158
Capilla del Cristo del Consuelo, 152
Cathedral, 150, _sqq._
Chapel of Santa Cantalina, 152
Church of San Martin, 153
Church of San Millan, 153
Church of la Vera Cruz, 153
Convent of Santa Cruz, 153
Historical sketch, 149, _sqq._
Semple, Colonel, 232
Seneca, 30
Seville, 7-21
Capilla de San Pedro, 11
Capilla de Santiago, 11
Cathedral, 8, _sqq._
Historical sketch, 7
Jewish quarter, 15
Sierra de Elvira, 48
Sierra Nevada, 48, 55
Souchet, sacks Valencia, 67
Tarragona, 83-90
Cathedral, 84, _sqq._
Historical sketch, 83, _sqq._
Toledo, 107-119
Bridges, 116, 117
Cathedral, 109
Capilla de la Descension de Nuestra Señora, 112
Capilla de Reyes Nuevo, 111
Capilla de San Ildefonso, 111
Capilla de Santiago, 112
Church of San Juan de los Reyes, 114
Church of Santa Maria la Blanca, 114
Convent of San Domingo el Real, 115
Historical sketch, 107, _sqq._
Jews' quarter, 114
Torquemada, Cardinal, 226
Tortosa, 77-82
Carving at, by Cristobal, 81
Cathedral 80, _sqq._
Historical sketch, 78, _sqq._
Triana, 19
Tribunal de Aguas, 69
Tuy, 183-185
Cathedral, 183, _sqq._
Convent of Santa Domingo, 185
Historical sketch, 183, _sqq._
Urraca, 200;
coffin of, 220
Valencia, 65-76
Cathedral, 69
Church of San Martin, 72
Church of Santa Catalina, 71
Convent del Carmen, 75
Convent Espinose, 75
Convent Juanes, 75
Convent Ribalta, 75
Historical sketch, 65, _sqq._
Mercado, 73, 74
Valladolid, 225-232
Church of Santa Maria la Antigua, 226
Colegiata de San Gregorio, 227
Collegio de Santa Cruz, 228
Historical sketch, 225
Scotch and English Colleges, 232
University, 230
Vargas, Louis de, _La Gamba_ at Seville, 11, 12
Vega, the, 62
Velasquez, tomb of, 142
Vigarney, carvings by, 113
Viladomát, pictures by, at Barcelona, 95
"Wamba," great bell, Oviedo, 222
Wellington, Duke of, 48
Ximenes, 112, 227
Yahya, Moorish King, 65
Zamora , 199-204
Capilla del Cardinal, 203
Capilla de San Miguel, 204
Cathedral, 201, _sqq._
Church of la Magdalena, 201
Church of San Pedro of Ildefonso, 201
Historical sketch, 200
Hospital, 201
Zurbaran, pictures at Cadiz, 4;
at Seville, 11, 12
Printed by BALLANTYNE & CO. LIMITED Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber.
matyrdoms of the Order=>martyrdoms of the Order
Witiza in the meantime died and was suceeded=>Witiza in the meantime
died and was succeeded
The whole rises in isolated grandeur and and may perhaps gain=>The whole
rises in isolated grandeur and may perhaps gain
and if it happen to be a=>and if it happens to be a
the arches of the the old bridge=>the arches of the old bridge
so named on acount of the scallop shells=>so named on account of the
scallop shells
she is embracing me, we disentagle ourselves=>she is embracing me, we
disentangle ourselves
but a short exsistence as their house of prayer=>but a short existence
as their house of prayer
who fought three antagonists one ofter another and came off
successful=>who fought three antagonists one after another and came off
successful
I was immediatley nonplussed=>I was immediately nonplussed
Bernardo de Arragon, tomb of, 164=>Bernardo de Aragon, tomb of, 164
End of Project Gutenberg's Cathedral Cities of Spain, by William Wiehe Collins