THE START.
The Thames--The Cornwall--Porpoises--A Gale--The
Channel--Ostend Canal--The Meuse--Earl of
Aberdeen--Holland--The Rhine--The Premier's Son--The River
Main--Heron stalking--The Prince of Wales.
The Rob Roy bounded away joyously on the top of the tide through
Westminster Bridge, and swiftly shooting the narrow piles at
Blackfriars, danced along the waves of the Pool, which looked all golden
in the morning sun, but were in fact of veritable pea-soup hue.
A fine breeze at Greenwich enabled me to set the new white sail, and we
skimmed along with a cheery hissing sound. At such times the river is a
lively scene with steamers and sea-bound ships, bluff little tugs, and
big looming barges. I had many a chat with the passing sailors, for it
was well to begin this at once, seeing that every day afterwards I was
to have talk with the river folk in English, French, Dutch, German, or
else some hotchpotch patois.
The bargee is not a bad fellow if you begin with good humour, but he
will not stand banter. Often they began the colloquy with, "Holloah you
two!" or "Any room inside?" or "Got your life insured, Gov'nor?" but I
smiled and nodded to every one, and every one on every river and lake
was friendly to me.
Gravesend was to be the port for the night, but Purfleet looked so
pretty that I took a tack or two to reconnoitre, and resolved to stop at
the very nice hotel on the river, which I beg to recommend.
While lolling about in my boat at anchor in the hot sun a fly stung my
hand; and although it was not remarked at once, the arm speedily
swelled, and I had to poultice the hand at night and to go to church
next day with a sling, which appendage excited a great deal of comment
in the village Sunday-school. This little incident is mentioned because
it was the only occasion on which any insect troubled me on the voyage,
though several croakers had predicted that in rivers and marshes there
would be hundreds of wasps, venomous flies, and gnats, not to mention
other residents within doors.
Just as I entered the door of the quiet little church, an only gentleman
about to go in fell down dead in the path. It was impossible not to be
much impressed with this sudden death as a solemn warning, especially to
one in vigorous health.
The "Cornwall" Reformatory School-ship is moored at Purfleet. Some of
the boys came ashore for a walk, neatly clad and very well behaved.
Captain Burton, who commands this interesting vessel, received me on
board very kindly, and the evening service between decks was a sight to
remember for ever.
About 100 boys sat in rows along the old frigate's main-deck, with the
open ports looking on the river, now reddened by a setting sun, and the
cool air pleasantly fanning us. The lads chanted the Psalms to the music
of a harmonium, played with excellent feeling and good taste, and the
Captain read a suitable portion from some selected book, and then prayer
was offered; and all this was by and for poor vagrant boys, whose claim
on society is great indeed if measured by the wrong it has done them in
neglect if not in precept, nay, even in example.
Next morning the canoe was lowered down a ladder from the hay-loft, where
it had been kept (it had to go up into many far more strange places in
subsequent days), and the Cornwall boys bid me a pleasant voyage--a wish
most fully realized indeed.
After taking in supplies at Gravesend, I shoved off into the tide, and
lit a cigar, and now I felt I had fairly started. Then there began a
strange feeling of _freedom_ and _novelty_ which lasted to the end of
the tour.
Something like it is felt when you first march off with a knapsack ready
to walk anywhere, or when you start alone in a sailing-boat for a long
cruise.
But then in walking you are bounded by every sea and river, and in a
common sailing-boat you are bounded by every shallow and shore; whereas,
I was in a canoe, which could be paddled or sailed, hauled, or carried
over land or water to Rome, if I liked, or to Hong-Kong.
The wind was fair again, and up went my sail. The reaches got wider and
the water more salt, but I knew every part of the course, for I had once
spent a fortnight about the mouth of the Thames in my pretty little
sailing-boat, the Kent, alone, with only a dog, a chart, a compass, and
a bachelor's kettle.
The new steamer Alexandra, which plies from London daily, passed me
here, its high-terraced American decks covered with people, and the
crowd gave a fine loud cheer to the Rob Roy, for the newspapers had
mentioned its departure. Presently the land seemed to fade away at each
side in pale distance, and the water was more sea than river, till near
the Nore we entered a great shoal of porpoises. Often as I have seen
these harmless and agile playfellows I had never been so close to them
before, and in a boat so small as to be almost disregarded by them, wily
though they be. I allowed the canoe to rock on the waves, and the
porpoises frequently came near enough to be struck by my paddle, but I
did not wage war, for a flap of a tail would have soon turned me upside
down.
After a pleasant sail to Southend and along the beach, the wind changed,
and a storm of heavy rain had to be met in its teeth by taking to the
paddle, until near Shoeburyness, where I meant to stop a day or two in
the camp of the National Artillery Association, which was assembled here
for its first Prize shooting.
The Royal Artillery received us Volunteers on this occasion with the
greatest kindness, and as they had appropriated quarters of officers
absent on leave for the use of members of the Council of the
Association, I was soon comfortably ensconced. The camp, however, in a
wet field was moist enough; but the fine tall fellows who had come from
Yorkshire, Somerset, or Aberdeen to handle the 68-pounders, trudged
about in the mud with good humour and thick boots, and sang round the
camp-fire in a drizzle of rain, and then pounded away at the targets
next day, for these were volunteers of the right sort.
As the wind had then risen to a gale it seemed a good opportunity for a
thorough trial of the canoe in rough water, so I paddled her to a corner
where she would be least injured by being thrown ashore after an upset,
and where she would be safe while I might run to change clothes after a
swim.
The buoyancy of the boat astonished me, and her stability was in every
way satisfactory. In the midst of the waves I even managed to rig up the
mast and sail, and as I had no baggage on board and so did not mind
being perfectly wet through in the experiments, there was nothing left
untried, and the confidence then gained for after times was invaluable.
Early next morning I started directly in the teeth of the wind, and
paddled against a very heavy sea to Southend, where a nice warm bath was
enjoyed while my clothes were getting dried, and then the Rob Roy had
its first railway journey in one of the little cars on the Southend pier
to the steamboat.
It was amusing to see how much interest and curiosity the canoe excited
even on the Thames, where all kinds of new and old and wonderful boats
may be seen. The reasons for this I never exactly made out. Some
wondered to see so small a boat at sea, others had never seen a canoe
before, the manner of rowing was new to most, and the sail made many
smile. The graceful shape of the boat pleased others, the cedar covering
and the jaunty flag, and a good many stared at the captain's uniform,
and they stared more after they had asked, "Where are you going to?" and
were often told, "I really do not know."
From Sheerness to Dover was the route, and on the branch line train the
Rob Roy had to be carried on the coals in the engine-tender, with
torrents of rain and plenty of hot sparks driven into her by the gale;
but after some delay at a junction the canoe was formally introduced to
a baggage-waggon and ticketed like a portmanteau, the first of a series
of transits in this way.
The London Chatham and Dover Railway Company took this new kind of "box"
as passengers' luggage, so I had nothing to pay, and the steamer to
Ostend was equally large-hearted, so I say, "Canoemen, choose this
channel."
But before crossing to Belgium I had a day at Dover, where I bought some
stuff and had a jib made for the boat by deft and fair fingers, had
paddled the Rob Roy on the green waves which toss about off the
pier-head most delectably. The same performance was repeated on the top
of the swell, tumbling and breaking on the "digue"[II.] at Ostend, where,
even with little wind, the rollers ran high on a strong ebb tide. Fat
bathers wallowed in the shallows, and fair ones, dressed most bizarre,
were swimming like ducks. All of these, and the babies squalling
hysterically at each dip, were duly admired; and then I had a quieter
run under sail on their wide and straight canal.
[Illustration: Rollers off the Digue.]
[II.] At Ostend I found an English gentleman preparing for a
voyage on the Danube, for which he was to build a "centre board" boat.
Although no doubt a sailing boat could reach the Danube by the Bamberg
canal, yet, after four tours on that river from its source as far as
Pest, I am convinced that to trust to sailing upon it would entail much
tedious delay, useless trouble, and constant anxiety. If the wind is
ahead you have all the labour of tacking, and are frequently in slack
water near the banks, and often in channels where the only course would
be dead to windward. If the wind is aft the danger of "running" is
extreme where you have to "broach to" and stop suddenly near a shallow
or a barrier. With a strong side wind, indeed, you can sail safely, but
this must come from north or south, and the high banks vastly reduce its
effect.
With just a little persuasion the railway people consented to put the
canoe in the baggage-van, and to charge a franc or two for "extra
luggage" to Brussels. Here she was carried on a cart through the town to
another station, and in the evening we were at Namur, where the Rob Roy
was housed for the night in the landlord's private parlour, resting
gracefully upon two chairs.
Two porters carried her through the streets next morning, and I took a
paddle on the Sambre, but very soon turned down stream and smoothly
glided to the Meuse.
Glancing water, brilliant sun, a light boat, and a light heart, all your
baggage on board, and on a fast current,--who would exchange this for
any diligence or railway, or steamboat, or horse? A pleasant stream was
enough to satisfy at this early period of the voyage, for the excitement
of rocks and rapids had not yet become a charm.
It is good policy, too, that a quiet, easy, respectable sort of river
like the Meuse should be taken in the earlier stage of a water tour,
when there is novelty enough in being on a river at all. The river-banks
one would call tame if seen from shore are altogether new when you open
up the vista from the middle of the stream. The picture that is rolled
sideways to the common traveller now pours out from before you, ever
enlarging from a centre, and in the gentle sway of the stream the
landscape seems to swell on this side and on that with new things ever
advancing to meet you in succession.
How careful I was at the first shallow! getting out and wading as I
lowered the boat. A month afterwards I would dash over them with a shove
here and a stroke there in answer to a hoarse croak of the stones at the
bottom grinding against my keel.
And the first barrier--how anxious it made me, to think by what means
shall I get over. A man appeared just in time (N.B.--They _always_ do),
and twopence made him happy for his share of carrying the boat round by
land, and I jumped in again as before.
Sailing was easy, too, in a fine wide river, strong and deep, and with a
favouring breeze, and when the little steamer passed I drew alongside
and got my penny roll and penny glass of beer, while the wondering
passengers (the first of many amazed foreigners) smiled, chattered, and
then looked grave--for was it not indecorous to laugh at an Englishman
evidently mad, poor fellow?
The voyage was chequered by innumerable little events, all perfectly
different from those one meets on shore, and when I came to the forts at
Huy and knew the first day's work was done, the persuasion was complete
that quite a new order of sensations had been set going.
Next morning I found the boat safe in the coach-house and the sails
still drying on the harness-pegs, where we had left them, but the ostler
and all his folks were nowhere to be seen. Everybody had gone to join
the long funeral procession of a great musician, who lived fifty years
at Huy, though we never heard of him before, or of Huy either; yet you
see it is in our Map at page 291.
The pleasure of meandering with a new river is very peculiar and
fascinating. Each few yards brings a novelty, or starts an excitement. A
crane jumps up here, a duck flutters there, splash leaps a gleaming
trout by your side, the rushing sound of rocks warns you round that
corner, or anon you come suddenly upon a millrace. All these, in
addition to the scenery and the people and the weather, and the
determination that you _must_ get on, over, through, or under every
difficulty, and cannot leave your boat in a desolate wold, and ought to
arrive at a house before dark, and that your luncheon bag is long since
empty; all these, I say, keep the mind awake, which would perchance dose
away for 100 miles in a first-class carriage.
It is, as in the voyage of life, that our cares and hardships are our
very Mentors of living. Our minds would only vegetate if all life were
like a straight canal, and we in a boat being towed along it. The
afflictions that agitate the soul are as its shallows, rocks, and
whirlpools, and the bark that has not been tossed on billows knows not
half the sweetness of the harbour of rest.
The river soon got fast and lively, and hour after hour of vigorous work
prepared me well for breakfast. Trees seemed to spring up in front and
grow tall, but it was only because I came rapidly towards them. Pleasant
villages floated as it were to meet me, gently moving. All life got to
be a smooth and gliding thing, of dreamy pictures and far-off sounds,
without fuss and without dust or anything sudden or loud, till at
length the bustle and hammers of Liege neared the Rob Roy--for it was
always the objects and not myself that seemed to move. Here I saw a fast
steamer, the Seraing, propelled by water forced from its sides, and as
my boat hopped and bobbed in the steamer's waves we entered a dock
together, and the canoe was soon hoisted into a garden for the night.
Gun-barrels are the rage in Liege. Everybody there makes or carries or
sells gun-barrels. Even women walk about with twenty stocked rifles on
their backs, and each rifle, remember, weighs 10 lbs. They sell plenty
of fruit in the market, and there are churches well worth a visit here,
but gun-barrels, after all, are the prevailing idea of the place.
However, it is not my purpose to describe the towns seen on this tour. I
had seen Liege well, years before, and indeed almost every town
mentioned in these pages. The charm then of the voyage was not in going
to strange lands, but in seeing old places in a new way.
Here at length the Earl of Aberdeen met me, according to our plans
arranged long before. He had got a canoe built for the trip, but a foot
longer and two inches narrower than the Rob Roy, and, moreover, made of
fir instead of strong oak. It was sent from London to Liege, and the
"combing" round the edge of the deck was broken in the journey, so we
spent some hours at a cabinet-maker's, where it was neatly mended.
Launching our boats unobserved on the river, we soon left Liege in the
distance and braved the hot sun.
The pleasant companionship of two travellers, each quite free in his own
boat, was very enjoyable. Sometimes we sailed, then paddled a mile or
two, or joined to help the boats over a weir, or towed them along while
we walked on the bank for a change.[III.]
[III.] Frequent trials afterwards convinced me that towing is only
useful if you feel very cramped from sitting. And this constraint is
felt less and less as you get accustomed to sit ten or twelve hours at a
time. Experience enables you to make the seat perfectly comfortable, and
on the better rivers you have so frequently to get out that any
additional change is quite needless. Towing is slower progress than
paddling, even when your arms are tired, though my canoe was so light to
tow that for miles I have drawn it by my little finger on a canal.
Each of us took whichever side of the river pleased him best, and we
talked across long acres of water between, to the evident surprise of
sedate people on the banks, who often could see only one of the strange
elocutionists, the other being hidden by bushes or tall sedge. When
talking thus aloud had amplified into somewhat uproarious singing, the
chorus was far more energetic than harmonious, but then the Briton is at
once the most timid and shy of mortal travellers, and the most _outré_
and singular when he chooses to be free.
The midday beams on a river in August are sure to conquer your fresh
energies at last, and so we had to pull up at a village for bread and
wine.
The moment I got into my boat again a shrill whining cry in the river
attracted my attention, and it came from a poor little boy, who had
somehow fallen into the water, and was now making his last faint efforts
to cling to a great barge in the stream. Naturally I rushed over to save
him, and my boat went so fast and so straight that its sharp prow caught
the hapless urchin in the rear, and with such a pointed reminder too
that he screamed and struggled and thus got safely on the barge, which
was beyond his reach, until thus roughly but fortunately aided.
On most of the Belgian, German, and French rivers there are excellent
floating baths, an obvious convenience which I do not recollect
observing on a single river in Britain, though in summer we have quite
as many bathers as there are abroad.
The floating baths consist of a wooden framework, say 100 feet long,
moored in the stream, and through which the water runs freely, while a
set of strong bars and chains and iron network forms a false bottom,
shallow at one end and deeper at the other, so that the bather cannot be
carried away by the current.
Round the sides there are bathing boxes and steps, ladders, and spring
boards for the various degree of aquatic proficiency.
The youths and even the little boys on the Rhine are very good swimmers,
and many of them dive well. Sometimes there is a ladies' bath of similar
construction, from which a good deal of very lively noise may be heard
when the fair bathers are in a talkative mood.
The soldiers at military stations near the rivers are marched down
regularly to bathe, and one day we found a large number of young
recruits assembled for their general dip.
While some were in the water others were firing at the targets for ball
practice. There were three targets, each made of cardboard sheets,
fastened upon wooden uprights. A marker safely protected in a ball-proof
_mantelet_ was placed so close to these targets that he could see all
three at once. One man of the firing party opposite each target having
fired, his bullet passed through the pasteboard and left a clear round
hole in it, while the ball itself was buried in the earth behind, and
so could be recovered again, instead of being dashed into fragments as
on our iron targets, and then spattered about on all sides, to the great
danger of the marker and everybody else.
When three men had thus fired, signals were made by drum, flag, and
bugle, and the firing ceased. The marker then came out and pointed to
the bullet-mark on each target, and having patched up the holes he
returned within his mantelet, and the firing was resumed. This very safe
and simple method of ball practice is much better than that used in our
military shooting.
Once as we rounded a point there was a large herd of cattle swimming
across the stream in close column, and I went right into the middle of
them to observe how they would welcome a stranger. In the Nile you see
the black oxen swim over the stream night and morning, reminding you of
Pharaoh's dream about the "kine" coming up out of the river, a notion
that used to puzzle in boyhood days, but which is by no means
incongruous when thus explained. The Bible is a book that bears full
light to be cast upon it, for truth looks more true under more light.
We had been delayed this morning in our start, and so the evening
fell sombre ere we came near the resting-place. This was the town of
Maastricht, in Holland, and it is stated to be one of the most strongly
fortified places in Europe; that is, of the old fashion, with straight
high walls quite impervious to the Armstrong and Whitworth guns--of a
century gone by.
[Illustration: CATTLE SWIMMING THE MEUSE. Page 28.]
But all we knew as we came near it at night was, that the stream was
good and strong, and that no lights appeared. Emerging from trees we
were right in the middle of the town, but where were the houses? had
they no windows, no lamps, not even a candle?
Two great high walls bounded the river, but not a gate or port could we
find, though one of us carefully scanned the right and the other
cautiously scraped along the left of this very strange place.
It appears that the commerce and boats all turn into a canal above the
old tumble-down fortress, and so the blank brick sides bounded us thus
inhospitably. Soon we came to a bridge, looming overhead in the
blackness, and our arrival there was greeted by a shower of stones from
some Dutch lads upon it, pattering pitilessly upon the delicate
cedar-covered canoes.
Turning up stream, and after a closer scrutiny, we found a place where
we could cling to the wall, which here sloped a little with debris, and
now there was nothing for it but to haul the boats up bodily over the
impregnable fortification, and thus carry them into the sleepy town. No
wonder the _octroi_ guard stared as his lamplight fell on two gaunt men
in grey, carrying what seemed to him a pair of long coffins, but he was
a sensible though surprised individual, and he guided us well, stamping
through the dark deserted streets to an hotel.
Though the canoes in a cart made a decided impression at the
railway-station next day, and arguments logically proved that the boats
must go as baggage, the porters were dense to conviction, and obdurate
to persuasion, until all at once a sudden change took place; they rushed
at us, caught up the two neglected "batteaux," ran with them to the
luggage-van, pushed them in, and banged the door, piped the whistle, and
as the train went off--"Do you know why they have yielded so suddenly?"
said a Dutchman, who could speak English. "Not at all," said we.
"Because I told them one of you was the son of the Prime Minister, and
the other Lord Russell's son."
But a change of railway had to be made at Aix-la-Chapelle, and after a
hard struggle we had nearly surrendered the boats to the "merchandise
train," to limp along the line at night and to arrive "perhaps
to-morrow." Indeed the Superintendent of that department seemed to
clutch the boats as his prize, but as he gloried a little too loudly,
the "Chef" of the passengers' baggage came, listened, and with calm mien
ordered for us a special covered truck, and on arriving at Cologne there
was "nothing to pay."[IV.]
[IV.] This is an exceptional case, and I wrote from England to
thank the officer. It would be unreasonable again to expect any baggage
to be thus favoured. A canoe is at best a clumsy inconvenience in the
luggage-van, and no one can wonder that it is objected to. In France the
railway _fourgons_ are shorter than in other countries, and the
officials there insisted on treating my canoe as merchandise. The
instances given above show what occurred in Belgium and Holland. In
Germany little difficulty was made about the boat as luggage. In
Switzerland there was no objection raised, for was not I an English
traveller? As for the English railway guards, they have the good sense
to see that a long light article like a canoe can be readily carried on
the top of a passenger carriage. Probably some distinct rules will be
instituted by the railways in each country, when they are found to be
liable to a nautical incursion, but after all one can very well arrange
to walk or see sights now and then, while the boat travels slower by a
goods-train.
To be quiet we went to the Belle Vue, at Deutz, which is opposite
Cologne, but a great Singing Society had its gala there, and sang and
drank prodigiously. Next day (Sunday too) this same quiet Deutz had a
"Schutzen Fest," where the man who had hit the target best was dragged
about in an open carriage with his wife, both wearing brass crowns, and
bowing royally to a screaming crowd, while blue lights glared and
rockets shot up in the serene darkness.
At Cologne, while Lord A. went to take our tickets at the steamer, the
boats were put in a handcart, which I shoved from behind as a man pulled
it in front. In our way to the river I was assailed by a poor vagrant
sort of fellow, who insisted on being employed as a porter, and being
enraged at a refusal he actually took up a large stone and ran after the
cart in a threatening passion. I could not take my hands from the boats,
though in fear that his missile would smash them if he threw it, but I
kicked up my legs behind as we trotted along. One of the sentries saw
the man's conduct, and soon a policeman brought him to me as a prisoner,
but as he trembled now with fear more than before with anger, I declined
to make any charge, though the police pressed this course, saying,
"Travellers are sacred here." This incident is mentioned because it was
the sole occasion when any discourtesy happened to me during this tour.
We took the canoes by steamer to a wide part of the Rhine at Bingen.
Here the scenery is good, and we spent an active day on the river,
sailing in a splendid breeze, landing on islands, scudding about in
steamers' waves, and, in fact, enjoying a combination of yacht voyage,
pic-nic, and boat race.
This was a fine long day of pleasure, though in one of the sudden
squalls my canoe happened to ground on a bank just at the most critical
time, and the bamboo mast broke short. The uncouth and ridiculous
appearance of a sail falling overboard is like that of an umbrella
turned inside out in a gust of wind. But I got another stronger mast,
and made the broken one into a boom.
Lord Aberdeen went by train to inspect the river Nahe, but reported
unfavourably; and I paddled up from its mouth, but the water was very
low.
Few arguments were needed to stop me from going against stream; for I
have a profound respect for the universal principle of gravitation, and
quite allow that in rowing it is well to have it with you by always
going down stream, and so the good rule was to make steam, horse, or man
take the canoe against the current, and to let gravity help the boat to
carry me down.
Time pressed for my fellow-paddler to return to England, so we went on
to Mayence, and thence by rail to Asschaffenburg on the Main. The canoes
again travelled in grand state, having a truck to themselves; but
instead of the stately philosopher superintendent of Aix-la-Chapelle,
who managed this gratuitously, we had a fussy little person to deal
with, and to pay accordingly,--the only case of decided cheating I can
recollect during the voyage.
A fellow-passenger in the railway was deeply interested about our tour;
and we had spoken of its various details for some time to him before we
found that he supposed we were travelling with "two small cannons,"
mistaking the word "canôts" for "canons." He had even asked about their
length and weight, and had heard with perfect placidity that our
"canons" were fifteen feet long, and weighed eighty pounds, and that we
took them only for "plaisir," not to sell. Had we carried two pet
cameleopards, he probably would not have been astonished.
The guests at the German inn of this long-named town amused us much by
their respectful curiosity. Our dress in perfect unison, both alike in
grey flannel, puzzled them exceedingly; but this sort of perplexity
about costume and whence why and whither was an everyday occurrence for
months afterwards with me.
A fine breeze enabled us to start on the river Main under sail, though
we lost much time in forcing the boats to do yachts' work; and I am
inclined to believe that sailing on rivers is rather a mistake unless
with a favourable wind. The Main is an easy stream to follow, and the
scenery only so-so. A storm of rain at length made it lunch-time, so we
sheltered ourselves in a bleak sort of arbour attached to an inn, where
they could give us only sour black bread and raw bacon. Eating this poor
cheer in a wet, rustling breeze and pattering rain, half-chilled in our
macintoshes, was the only time I fared badly, so little of "roughing it"
was there in this luxurious tour.
Fine weather came soon again and pleasure,--nay, positive sporting; for
there were wild ducks quite impudent in their familiarity, and herons
wading about with that look of injured innocence they put on when you
dare to disturb them. So my friend capped his revolver-pistol, and I
acted as a pointer dog, stealing along the other side of the river, and
indicating the position of the game with my paddle.
Vast trouble was taken. Lord A. went ashore, and crawled on the bank a
long way to a wily bird, but, though the sportsman had shown himself at
Wimbledon to be one of the best shots in the world, it was evidently not
easy to shoot a heron with a pocket revolver.
As the darker shades fell, even this rather stupid river became
beautiful; and our evening bath was in a quiet pool, with pure yellow
sand to rest on if you tired in swimming. At Hanau we stopped for the
night.
The wanderings and turnings of the Main next day have really left no
impression on my memory, except that we had a pleasant time, and at last
came to a large Schloss, where we observed on the river a boat evidently
English. While we examined this craft, a man told us it belonged to the
Prince of Wales, "and he is looking at you now from the balcony."
For this was the Duchess of Cambridge's Schloss at Rumpenheim, and
presently a four-in-hand crossed the ferry, and the Prince and Princess
of Wales drove in it by the river-side, while we plied a vigorous paddle
against the powerful west wind until we reached Frankfort, where our wet
jackets were soon dried at the _Russie_, one of the best hotels in
Europe.
The Frankfort boatmen were much interested next day to see the two
English canoes flitting about so lightly on their river; sometimes
skimming the surface with the wind, and despising the contrary stream;
then wheeling about, and paddling hither and thither in shallows where
it seemed as if the banks were only moist.
On one occasion we both got into my canoe, and it supported the
additional weight perfectly well, which seemed to prove that the
dimensions of it were unnecessarily large for the displacement required.
However, there was not room for both of us to use our paddles
comfortably in the same canoe.
On the Sunday, the Royal personages came to the English church at
Frankfort, and, with that quiet behaviour of good taste which wins more
admiration that any pageantry, they walked from the place of worship
like the rest of the hearers.
There is a true grandeur in simplicity when the occasion is one of
solemn things.
Next day my active and pleasant companion had to leave me on his return
to England. Not satisfied with a fortnight's rifle practice at
Wimbledon, where the best prize of the year was won by his skill, he
must return to the moors and coverts for more deadly sport; and the
calls of more important business, besides, required his presence at
home. He paddled down the Rhine to Cologne, and on the way several times
performed the difficult feat of hooking on his canoe to a steamer going
at full speed.
Meantime, my boat went along with me by railway to Freyburg, from whence
the new voyage was really to begin, for as yet the Rob Roy had not
paddled in parts unknown.