_MÆANDER_--CRUISING IN THE SULU SEA
[Sidenote: 1849. Jan. 3.]
We quitted Sulu with regret. I liked Windham--a comical mixture of
English honesty and native cunning.
Standing along the coast to the eastward, at 8 P.M. came to in a
beautiful and secure anchorage, protected by the Island of Toolyan,
said to belong to the English. Natives frightened. The scenery,
although no Kina-Balu, was more beautiful than any we had yet seen.
Our late arrival caused the same consternation as at Sulu. The same
noise and flitting about of lights; until one fine fellow, determined
to risk his life for the community, paddled alongside. When our pacific
intentions were made known confidence was quickly established.
This island is separated from Sulu by a narrow strait. It appeared well
cultivated; there were gardeners on shore and fishermen afloat, the
people more peaceably inclined than their neighbours; but we did not
trouble them, and proceeded for Samboangan.
[Sidenote: Jan. 4.]
Our invalids improved, with the exception of the chaplain, whose health
caused anxiety.
The excitement and interest of our cruise rather increased as we
proceeded. On the 5th we anchored off the Bolod Islands, and landed to
search for the eggs of a bird which, from the description given us, we
supposed to be the Megapodius.
[Sidenote: Jan. 8.]
Anchored off the west coast of the island of Basilair, the largest of
the Sulu Archipelago, on which the Spaniards have established a small
settlement, not without trouble, the inhabitants being hostile and
warlike, keeping their garrison on the alert. The French squadron,
under Admiral Cecille, sustained some loss in an attack by boats here.
The next day we worked our way between numerous small but beautiful
islands, only regretting we had not time to explore them.
[Sidenote: The Philippines.]
At 9 P.M. we came to off the fort of Samboangan. On the following
morning saluted the Spanish flag.
The settlement is on the south part of the Philippine group, and its
population reinforced by convicts from Manila.
[Sidenote: Jan. 9.]
The inhabitants are fierce, and celebrated for their piratical
propensities. We much enjoyed a few days in this comparatively
civilised place.
Owing to the clever management of the Governor, Don Cayetano de
Figueroa, Colonel of Engineers, a very sociable system of society
prevailed, uniting all classes--the proud Spanish dames not refusing to
meet in the same ballroom the pretty half-caste women who during the
mornings were engaged in washing clothes or retailing eggs and poultry
in the market.
The hospitality of the Governor provided for us at his residence early
every morning a cup of excellent chocolate. After _chôta hazari_,
horses being in readiness, he would accompany us, pointing out
everything worth seeing.
The settlement of Samboangan lies within narrow boundaries; but in the
immediate vicinity of the town the land was highly cultivated.
In our rides we were attended by boys carrying our guns, the jungle
abounding in varieties of doves and pigeons, also a bantam fowl.
We had dances and dinners on shore and on board; indeed it was with no
small regret we took leave of our kind and hospitable friends.
[Sidenote: Jan. 14.]
There is much in these regions to interest the conchologist and to
reward his researches among the rocks and seaweeds: finding I was a
collector, the officers of the Spanish marine supplied me from their
private collections with some beautiful specimens of the spondylus and
chama.
We left Samboangan in company with a fleet of gunboats that would have
done credit to any nation.
It must be confessed that in _systematic_ protection to the commerce of
their respective seas both Spain and Holland surpass us. The Spaniards,
alive to the truth that commerce and piracy cannot co-exist, have long
since maintained such a naval force as has not only driven away, but
_keeps_ at a distance from the Philippine Islands, those hordes who
used to inflict on their marine traffic such sacrifice of life and
property.
The Dutch, true to the same policy, and perhaps even more happy in
its exercise, have by a system of vigilance along the whole coast of
Java, so eradicated piracy from the Celebes, that murderers have been
converted into merchants.
[Sidenote: Jan. 16.]
Observing a sandbank to the north-west not mentioned in our charts,
we hauled up, intending to anchor near it and ascertain its correct
position.
With reduced sail we neared the island; and with the leads going,
look-out men at the masthead, and occasional cast of the deep-sea lead,
we approached the lee side and got within cables’ length of the beach
without obtaining bottom at 120 fathoms.
A line of breakers with overfalls extended off the north-west end,
having the appearance of a shelf of rocks, but these proved to be
nothing but a tide ripple as we stood near. The island was small, and
had the same appearance all round. On landing we found a patch of
glaring white sand, without a vestige of vegetation, surrounded by a
belt of coral about a mile and a half in circumference, and so steep
that I believe we might have rubbed the sides of the _Mæander_ against
it without obtaining bottom.
We found on this lonely coral island the solitary grave of a Mussulman.
Here was, indeed, a resting-place likely to be undisturbed.
[Sidenote: Cagayan Sulu, Jan. 19.]
Came to in ten fathoms, about a mile off the south side of Cagayan,
and commenced our examination of the curious circular lake before
mentioned. The entrance is by a gap. This, however, is crossed by a
bank of coral, which at low water is nearly dry, so to exclude any boat
larger than a canoe. Just outside the middle of the bar was a small
island of rock and sandstone, with a sufficient shelter to make an
excellent shaded spot for our picnic.
On passing the bar we found ourselves inside a magnificent circular
lake of deep blue water, with a circumference of about three miles, and
completely encircled by sandstone cliffs, upwards of 200 feet in height
and nearly perpendicular, covered with shrubs.
In the natural barriers of this remarkable enclosure only two small
breaks occurred--one was the gap by which we entered, the other was on
the E.N.E. side.
Nothing could be more luxuriant than the growth of trees and shrubs,
their trunks and branches covered with a variety of beautiful orchids
in brilliant blossom hanging in festoons to the water’s edge.
Over our heads, disturbed by such unusual visitors, numbers of
pigeons flew to and fro, while many varieties of the parrot uttered
remonstrances.
Formed ourselves into small parties--some to haul the seine, others
in search of shells, while a third explored the gap on the north-east
side, clambering up without any anticipation of a further treat.
At a height of about eighty feet another beautiful but smaller lake
burst in sight, circular in form, and as nearly as possible similar to
that which they had left.
The two lakes were separated by a natural wall; and the spectator
standing on its narrow edge could, by a turn of head, look at the depth
of thirty feet on the inner lake, or on the outer one, eighty feet
beneath him.
Men and axes were procured from the ship, the trees were cut down and a
path made up the gap, and so over to the fresh-water lake. A raft was
constructed, and with a small boat belonging to the tender launched
upon the water.
Our operations drew some natives to the spot, who expostulated and
informed us that the water of the upper lake was sacred, and had never
yet been desecrated by the presence of a canoe; that the Spirit of
the Lake (by description, a fiery dragon of the worst order) would be
annoyed at the innovation: nothing would induce them to venture on it.
These scruples were, however, got over by a glass of grog.
The inner lake was the finer of the two; it might at one time, by some
volcanic convulsion, have risen and burst through its barriers at this
spot into the lower basin, which in turn may have formed the gap in the
outer side.
[Sidenote: Jan. 20.]
We now took up our old berth in the south-west bay of Cagayan Sulu,
and commenced an active barter for stock; this, however, was brought
to a sudden close on the 22nd, the natives taking fright at our shell
practice. We were exercising at general quarters, and a few of them
had remained to see the shot strike the target; but the double report
produced by these missiles was too much for Sulu nerves.
[Sidenote: Jan. 23.]
Sailed, making for the northward of Banguey, anchoring occasionally.
[Sidenote: Jan. 28.]
Came to in Victoria Bay, Labuan, and soon after landed Rajah Brooke,
restored to comparative health.
Found orders for our being in China by the end of March. Labuan is much
improved, residences having been shifted to where they ought to have
been at the beginning. Hugh Low better.
[Sidenote: Jan. 30.]
Breakfasted with, and took leave of, the Rajah, who shortly after went
to Sarawak. Weighed for Singapore.
[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]
Young Dalyell dined with me to keep his pretty sister Bijou’s birthday.
[Sidenote: Feb. 1.]
Anchored in Singapore Roads. Further orders for China, the
Commander-in-Chief thinking it advisable to have a force ready in case
the Government should have to enforce the treaty made by Sir John Davis
with the Chinese Government in 1847, by which the gates of the city of
Canton were to be opened to foreigners.
This treaty was likely to be disregarded by the Chinese, according
to opportunity, when the immediate danger should be removed: it was
made at the bayonet point, while our troops were in possession of the
environs of the Celestial City.
[Sidenote: Feb. 2.]
Among memos the Chief left was one directing any ship on her way to
Hong Kong to bring three heavy spars that were waiting passage to the
Government House for mast, topmast, and yard.
One was ninety-six feet long, a beautiful straight stick, but heavy as
lead, which no other ship on the station could or would carry. How to
get it on board was a difficulty.
Luckily we had a brig-of-war at anchor: I removed the cabin stern
windows on the starboard side, and the bulkheads of the fore and after
cabins. Secured the main-deck guns in-board fore and aft. The war-brig
undertook to lift one end of the spar to the level of our main-deck.
On board we had power enough to draw it to a snug berth, which gave us
a list. The topmast and yard we secured to the main and mizzen chains
on the port side.
We were going to Hong Kong, but were not afraid of the war junks even
in our disabled state.
[Sidenote: Feb. 17.]
Sailed for China, shaping our course so as to communicate with Sarawak
and Labuan.
_Auckland_ sailed before us with our marines, and poor Hannan, our
chaplain, invalided. I shall miss him much. Eleven of this fine corps
of marines had become victims to Labuan fever.
[Sidenote: Feb. 25.]
Left the ship, which came to off Santobong, in gig, up the river to
Sarawak.
Kindly received by Brooke, who had returned. The place flourishing, but
too many useless hangers-on about him! Took up the mail; no time to
spare.
[Sidenote: Feb. 26.]
Up early. Succeeded in getting on board in one tide. Weighed at once.
[Sidenote: Mar. 22.]
Caught a shark this afternoon--the first, by the bye, in this ship.
Measured about 5 feet, but amazingly powerful. He was cut up and eaten
within twenty minutes of his coming on board.
[Sidenote: Mar. 30.]
Arrived early in Hong Kong Harbour. Found the Admiral recovering from
the effects of a paralytic stroke--poor, dear old boy!--very game
though. When I reported having the spars on board, he said, “More fool
you; if I could not bring them in a line-of-battle ship, how were you
to do it in a frigate?”
A most effective squadron met together, commanded by an unusually nice
set of fellows:--
[Sidenote: Hong Kong, Mar. 31.]
_Hastings_ (Flag), _Albatros_, 12, Commander, Arthur Farquhar;
_Scout_, 14, Commander, Frederick Johnstone; _Pilot_, 12, Edmund M.
Lyons; _Columbine_, 16, John C. D. Hay; _Arab_, 12, William Morris;
_Inflexible_, 6, steam sloop, John C. Hoseason; and the _Fury_, 6,
steam sloop, James Wilcox; the two latter at Whampoa. Tiffin with
Farquhar.
[Sidenote: April 2.]
Dined with General Staveley, C.B.; he an old friend at the Mauritius in
1829.
[Sidenote: April 4.]
Chinese reply, refusing to comply with the Treaty of Sir John Davis,
and we about to pocket the insult.
[Sidenote: April 10.]
Finding there was no intention on the part of our Government to enforce
the Davis Treaty, the Chief left in _Inflexible_ to visit the northern
ports; he ordered _Hastings_ to Singapore, dispersed the sloops,
_Albatros_ to Borneo, and the others to their respective stations at
the ports in China, opened to trade by the Pottinger Treaty. _Mæander_
was left to take care of Hong Kong.
How little our Government knew about China.
[Illustration: Mæander, _Hong Kong. Manned Yards on Departure of Sir
Francis Collier._]