about 4 o’clock, and about that hour crowds of people are congregated in
that locality--the majority of them being passengers, attended by their
relatives and friends, who have come to wish them God-speed on their
voyage--and on the tender putting in an appearance and making fast to
the wharf quite a rush took place to secure seats on board, the little
vessel being crowded to its utmost capacity with passengers and luggage.
As the tide is making we get out safely, and without any delay, are
shortly aboard the “Rockton,” the anchor being weighed a few minutes
after 7 p.m., and with a fair wind and smooth sea we continue our
voyage, taking the outside track round Magnetic Island, obtaining a
splendid view of it and the Palms as we steam along. Nothing occurs to
break the monotony until we arrive at Cooktown, where the anchor is let
go about 5 p.m. on Tuesday, the ship’s boat being very quickly in
readiness to convey the captain, purser, mails and passengers, ashore,
but as it is pretty rough I prefer staying on board, giving our genial
old friend, “Uncle John,” a parting salute as he goes over the side with
about as much ballast aboard as he can carry.
We are only delayed about five hours when everything is again in
readiness to resume our voyage, the passenger list being supplemented by
a few fresh arrivals, causing some of the state-rooms to be rather
inconveniently crowded, but as the nights are warm and the weather keeps
gloriously fine many of us prefer sleeping on deck, and by the aid of
pillows, mattrasses, and rugs, succeed in making ourselves perfectly
comfortable. Captain Thompson, whose duty it is to take charge of the
vessels belonging to the A.U.S.N. Co. during the passage between
Cooktown and Thursday Island, and _vice versa_, comes aboard here for
the purpose of superintending the intricate navigation of this portion
of the eastern seaboard, and as we also have the services of Captain
Keating available in that capacity, in addition to the practical
seamanship and knowledge of the coast possessed by Captain Leggett, we
have every prospect of pulling through in good time and without the
necessity of having to anchor at night; more especially as the nights
are beautifully fine and clear with a good moon, which renders, by means
of its light, most valuable assistance.
I have often wondered how it is, that further south where plenty of sea
room is always at command, accidents of the Ly-ee-moon and Cahors type
should be of more frequent occurrence than they are in the intricate
navigation between the Barrier Reef and the mainland, where, if such
calamities did happen, it would not be so much matter for wonderment,
and some excuse could be made for those in charge of valuable human
lives and property, and can only account for it by the fact that the
danger renders everyone connected with the vessel most vigilant and
attentive; pilot, captain, and officers, being always on the alert to
secure the safety of everything under their control.
On Wednesday morning we have a rare bit of fun. One of our
passengers--the little Jew, wearing specs., before mentioned--was coming
out of his cabin, and hearing a commotion going on in the fore part of
the steamer, asked a steward whom he chanced to meet, “Vat vhas all the
row aboud?” There was a sail in sight ahead, and on the look-out man
giving notice of the fact everyone on deck was rushing about to try and
get a sight of the stranger; hence the bustle and noise noticed by the
Jew. “A sale! a sale!” says the child of Israel. “Mein gott, steward,
vhy dont you got me a ‘kateelog’; de tings vhas all sold pefore I make
me any monish.”
About breakfast time we were abreast of the Channel Rock lightship, and
as we had some packages on board for them, the whistle was sounded and a
boat manned by four men--one of whom was the possessor of, I think, the
finest beard I ever saw on a man--put off from the lightship and was
shortly alongside, the steamer being stopped for a few minutes to enable
them to obtain their letters, papers, and goods, amongst the latter
being a large bale of aboriginal blankets for the use of the blacks in
the vicinity of Cape Melville, where they are still pretty numerous. How
on earth the unfortunate beings condemned to pass their days on this
lonely lightship manage to exist without losing their reason passes my
comprehension altogether, for a more desolate-looking spot it would be
hard to find on the face of the earth, viewed as we saw it from the deck
of the Rockton, with the lightship anchored about three miles from the
shore; a few ugly rocks just showing above the surface of the sea
indicating the dangers of the channel; the mountains of rock piled
together in most admired disorder, and almost bare of vegetation, in the
background--the whole scene being one of such utter desolation that I
could not help a feeling of pity arising in my breast for the poor
devils, whose only intercourse with the outer world is limited to an
interchange of a few words once a week with a passing steamer.
Some little time after passing the lightship, and when nearing the
Flinders Group, a blackfellow’s canoe was descried in the distance, and
as we drew nearer we could see that it contained four darkies, who were
paddling with might and main trying to intercept us--no doubt for the
purpose of begging food and tobacco, or any other articles which the
charitably disposed might feel inclined to bestow upon them. Their
canoe, which was fashioned out of a hollowed tree and fitted with an
outrigger to prevent its capsizing, was making good headway under the
frantic exertions of its dusky crew, being well away on the starboard
bow; but as time was precious, our genial skipper did not care to slow
down for the purpose of holding an interview, and we gradually drew
abeam of them: but they struggled gamely on until we left them astern
and they saw pursuit was hopeless, when, with a gesture of despair, they
threw up the sponge and, squatting down in their frail bark, watched us
steam away, regretting no doubt their hard luck at missing a breakfast
and a smoke which had seemed almost within their grasp.
We shortly afterwards passed the Flinders Group, a most remarkable
landmark on this route; and I was informed by Captain Leggett that
splendid oysters of most delicious flavour can be obtained in almost any
quantities just off the point of the most westerly of the islands, he
having discovered them on a former voyage when commander of the Gunga.
The sea is as calm as the proverbial mill pond, and we seem as though
steaming along some broad and beautiful river, the points of the Great
Barrier Reef showing plainly on our right, whilst on our left we have
the mainland, in some places bold and well defined, and in others low
and indistinct, from which at times dense columns of smoke are seen
arising, denoting no doubt the presence of some of the wild tribes of
blacks who still find a safe retreat in the recesses of Cape York
peninsula.
We shortly come in sight of Claremont Island Lightship on the Northern
side of Princess Charlotte Bay, where Captain Wilson, his wife, and
assistants find a quiet retreat from the noise and bustle of the outside
world; and here also we see a little daughter of Pilot Thompson’s, who
is suffering from an affection of the brain, and has been recommended by
a medical man thorough rest and quietness for a time; and no better
place could have been selected, for certainly, to judge from
appearances, nothing could ever occur here to jar the nerves of the most
sensitive, whilst there is a little more variety than is apparent at
that lonely Channel Rock, there being a beche-de-mer station visible on
a low-lying coral island a short distance away to the eastward, with
which doubtless the dwellers on the lightship keep up communication.
There are many low islands and patches of coral reef distinctly visible
on either side as we steam along, rendering the utmost vigilance on the
part of pilots and captain indispensable, but we have a relay of good
men in Pilots Thompson and Keating and Captain Leggett; so we make good
headway in spite of all obstructions; and shortly after leaving the
Claremonts we meet the British India Steamer Catterthun bowling merrily
along on her course southwards, with whom we exchange the courtesies
usual at sea. We are evidently in tropical climes this morning, judging
from the light and exceedingly airy costume in which one of the gentler
sex appears on deck, causing quite a feeling of astonishment amongst the
lady passengers who have not yet learnt to appreciate the coolness and
luxury of a robe made of mosquito netting and fine linen, and a flutter
of excitement amongst the male portion, who, like myself, believe that
beauty unadorned is admired the most. But the Captain, like the good
general he is, soon puts matters straight, and the excitement gradually
subsides as we settle down listlessly to pass away the hours as best we
may.
On Thursday morning, about eight o’clock, we enter the beautiful Albany
Pass, certainly one of the most lovely spots on the whole coast of
Australia, and nearly everyone is on deck to admire the lovely scene
presented to their view.
There is a terrific tide rip at the entrance, the water fairly surging
over some low-lying rocks on the port side, running down from a point of
land covered in all directions with ant-hills of a beautiful red color,
with which one lady seemed excessively charmed; and not being quite sure
of what they consisted, asked another lady friend if that was the lovely
red coral of which she had heard so much, but was unable to obtain any
definite information on the subject; and I am still under the impression
she retains the belief that some of the grandest coral ornaments in the
world are to be obtained at that particular spot. The ever-changing
views obtained as we steam through the Pass bring forth expressions of
admiration and delight on every hand, culminating in one spontaneous
burst as we round the point, which reveals a view of the old Government
residence at Somerset, and now occupied by Mr. Frank Jardine, who has a
large cattle station in this portion of the peninsula--the house being
situated upon an eminence surrounded by dense tropical foliage, bringing
out in strong relief the cleared ground in the midst of which the
buildings are erected, whilst down on the beach are the boat and
beche-de-mer sheds, with a neat little schooner and her attendant fleet
of small boats lying peacefully at anchor--making, altogether, a picture
long to be remembered.
At the northern end of the Albany Pass lies the Sextant Rock, so called
from the circumstance of the great navigator, Captain Cook, having
landed there to take observations; and as we draw near to Thursday
Island, just before entering the Prince of Wales Channel, we see away to
the north-east some few miles distant the wreck of the ship
John-de-Costa, which ran aground on the North Torres Reef, a little over
two years ago, whilst on her way from Melbourne to Calcutta with 150
head of horses on board for the Indian market.
There she lies nearly high and dry with a slight list to starboard,
looking in the distance like a vessel at anchor, a grim monument to the
dangerous navigation of these coral seas; and shortly after she was
wrecked, whilst horses, stores, &c., were still on board, the lot was
submitted to auction at Thursday Island, and bought by a syndicate of
the residents in the immediate vicinity at the following figures: The
vessel with all standing rigging was sold for £170; the horses and about
30 tons of fodder only realised £20; cabin stores, £20; deck stores,
£20; and 125 iron tanks of 400 gallons each, £20.
All attempts to get the ship off the reef have proved futile, but about
100 of the horses were saved, being transhipped into small vessels
belonging to some of the pearl-shellers, in lots of four and five at a
time, and then landed at Thursday Island, from whence they were finally
sent on to Normanton, the majority being conveyed by Captain Leggett in
his various trips with the “Gunga,” so that the speculation on behalf of
the syndicate must have turned out a very profitable venture. We steam
round the northern end of Hammond Island and Hammond Rock, the latter
looking like some immense boulder, round which the tide is rushing at
the rate of a good five knots an hour; and here we catch the first
glimpse of Goode Island and the lighthouse, with Friday Island looming
in the distance; and shortly afterwards pass the Mecca Reef, so called
from the fact of the steamer of that name having there become a total
wreck.
It is matter for congratulation amongst us that we have come through
safely, it being almost impossible to over-estimate the difficulties
attending navigation through these dangerous and intricate channels,
which necessitates a uniform rate of speed in order to keep a correct
reckoning, so that great reliance has to be placed on the chief
engineers of all steamers taking this route; the beacons placed here and
there on the numerous sunken reefs with which the place abounds denoting
plainly even to the most unpractised eye that the life of a captain in
these waters is certainly not all beer and skittles; and excuses might
be found for an accident in this locality which would be entirely
wanting in more open navigation, as the reefs extend right across to the
New Guinea coast, so that all vessels have to come pretty close to Goode
island in order to get through the narrow channel of some half-mile in
width which there exists, and which in the event of an invasion of our
territory by a foreign power could be fortified at comparatively
trifling expense, and render an attack from that direction almost
impossible.
We steer round the northern end of Goode Island, obtaining a line view
of the lighthouse and keeper’s quarters, romantically perched on the
highest point of land in the island, having Friday and Prince of Wales
Islands on the right, Goode and Hammond Islands on the left, with Horne
Island in the background, Thursday Island lying dead ahead. Going
through this passage we encounter a very strong tide, the buoys marking
the passage being half submerged by the fierce rush of water, which
reminds one very much of the current in a mighty river; but the Rockton
is equal to the occasion, and our progress is certain, if not very
rapid. There are several shelling stations in sight, and I was
particularly struck with the beautiful situation of the one known as
“Waiawea,” which is on a small island lying between Hammond and Goode
Islands, and looks, with its grove of palms surrounding the residence, a
veritable paradise on earth.
Fleets of shelling boats are lying at anchor at the various stations,
whilst one small schooner, evidently making for the anchorage at
Thursday Island, has had to drop anchor through not being able to make
headway against the tide, and forms a very picturesque object, with her
colored crew forward and the boss, evidently chewing the cud of
reflection, seated near the stern. We entered the port by a different
channel to that which I entered on a former occasion in the City of
Melbourne, in consequence of the water being too shallow to admit a
vessel of the Rockton’s draught coming through the nearer passage; but
we rounded the point on which is situated the Government residential
quarters and laid a course for the hulk Star of Peace, alongside which
our Captain laid the Rockton in a thoroughly workmanlike manner, without
any of the noise and fuss generally noticeable on such occasions.
We are soon boarded by Mr. Milman, the acting Government resident, in a
smart water police boat, who shortly afterwards goes ashore, taking as
passengers Messrs. Cribb and the parson who had come to settle down
amongst the “Thirsty Islanders,” whilst several friends and myself are
invited to take passage in the remarkably smart boat belonging to
Messrs. Burns, Philp, and Co., manned by a colored crew of boys, dressed
in a neat blue and white uniform, white caps with tortoiseshell peaks,
and commanded by Mr. Bromley, the agent here for the great northern firm
who monopolise the greater portion of the business done in this quarter
of the globe. The colored population is very conspicuous, shore boats
manned by Cingalese being an especial feature; and some howling swells
are visible amongst the various crews, one joker in particular being
especially remarkable for his flowing petticoats, tortoiseshell comb,
bald head, and a few long locks of hair behind his ears and on the back
of his neck.
Cingalese traders also come aboard with heaps of Brummagem stuff, dear
at any price, and do their best to drive a bargain, but with very little
success, the majority of our passengers having been there before, and
had some little experience of these guileless colored gentlemen. We cast
anchor at a few minutes past noon on Thursday, and as we had to
discharge about 70 tons of cargo and take aboard 100 tons for Normanton,
our skipper, who was anxious if possible to get away again that night in
order to catch the tide on the Norman River bar on Saturday, tried his
best to expedite matters; but he had to deal with a lot of colored
wretches who had evidently been born tired, and consequently required a
certain amount of rest, so that, strive as he would, the fates were
against him, the loading and unloading process lasting well on to
midnight, when it was too late to make a start, so that we had to remain
where we were until daylight on Friday morning.
We had a commercial traveller aboard with a heap of samples who got
fairly on the war-path because he was unable to induce Mr. Bromley to
let him stow his luggage in Messrs Burns, Philp and Co.’s gig, a craft
certainly never built for or intended to carry cargo, and never used for
that purpose even by the firm themselves. Then he tried to induce
Captain Leggett to place one of the ship’s boats and crew at his
service, evidently wishing to get his goods ashore on the cheap, and not
caring what delay or inconvenience might be caused to a whole ship’s
company by the proceeding as long as he got his own turn served.
The Captain told him that as he was anxious to proceed on the voyage
that night if possible, he could not spare the boat’s crew, but as there
were plenty of shore boats available, why not engage one of them if very
anxious to get his samples landed. But this did not suit the drummer’s
book altogether, so he relieved his feelings by blackguarding everybody
all round, and swearing vengeance on Bromley, Captain Leggett, and all
concerned, but I noticed he took the shore boat at the finish, when he
found it impossible to save the expense of the transaction. There are
thousands of people like him in the world who care nothing for the loss
and inconvenience their actions may cause to others as long as they can
get their own turn served, and save expenses which are only fairly and
legitimately incurred in the prosecution of their own business
transactions. Going ashore at Thursday Island is a bit of a pic-nic,
especially for ladies, there being no wharf to land at, and as the water
is very shallow for some distance from the shore, boats are unable to
come right in, consequently, passengers have to be conveyed from the
boats to the beach on the backs of the colored boys who compose the
crews--so that a heavy weight on a light built boy stands a fair “six to
four” chance of coming to grief, and carrying more water ashore in his
clothes than he bargained for.
There are some very nice buildings and residences visible from the
beach, the Queensland National Bank and the private residence of Messrs.
Burns, Philp and Co.’s manager shewing out prominently; there are also
two hotels, which are very fairly conducted and look extremely cool and
comfortable, but I can hardly understand why customers have to pay a
shilling for a drink, as they surely ought to be able to land liquors as
cheaply here as they can in Normanton, where the price is only sixpence.
We had a stroll round the place, but it does not take long to encircle
the settlement, and I was more interested in a visit paid to Messrs.
Burns, Philp and Co.’s Stores under the guidance of Captain Pearson, an
old resident of this locality, than with anything else I saw upon the
Island. The front store abounds with supplies of every description
required in the Island trade--a large business being now done with the
natives of New Guinea, whose curios and implements of warfare form a
conspicuous and very interesting exhibit, the Company having a large
stock of them for sale.
In the back stores they showed us tons of pearl shell, some of which,
recently discovered in a patch off the coast of New Guinea, was of
excellent quality, several specimens of the golden-lipped variety that
were submitted for our inspection being something magnificent in size
and appearance; whilst ranged in bags round the walls were the different
species of beche-de-mer, first and foremost being the teat fish, which
realises a high figure in the Chinese market, it being esteemed by the
disciples of Confucius as one of the rarest of delicacies when served at
table in the form of soup.
Having fairly explored the settlement, which certainly is one of the
most picturesque and interesting spots on the eastern coast of
Australia, and has a resident population of about four hundred souls,
embracing, of course, the islands in the vicinity, as well as a floating
population of about twelve hundred, comprising whites, blacks, Malays,
Lascars, Coolies and Chinese, we signal the boat, in order to return to
the ship, and on our way witness a rather novel sight.
A number of fat bullocks had been shipped at Townsville on board the
Rockton to the order of the only butcher at Thursday Island, and as the
ship was as previously described, lying at some distance from the shore,
it proved a matter of some little difficulty and danger to land the
stock without running the risk of loss by drowning; so to minimise the
risk as far as possible, the following plan was adopted:
A rope with running noose at one end was first placed round the horns of
each bullock as they stood in their stalls on deck, when the slings were
placed under them, and one at a time they were hoisted into mid-air, and
then gradually and gently lowered into the water alongside the ship,
where boats were lying in readiness to take them in charge, in order to
tow them ashore. The ropes round the horns were grasped and secured to a
ring in the stern of the boat, whilst two stout rowers pulled with might
and main towards the shallow landing, the butcher, or one of his
assistants, being seated in the stern of the boat to steer and watch
that the cattle did not come to grief on the journey.
Thus, partly swimming and partly towing, slow progress was made, until
eventually the cattle struck the sandy beach--when the fun
commenced--as, finding they had foothold and something to charge at,
they madly plunged at the boat, necessitating the exercise of
considerable skill on the part of the boatmen in keeping out of harm’s
way; but what with the confinement on board ship and the resistance
offered by the water, the poor animals were soon exhausted, and seeing a
few green bushes and some tempting green grass at the edge of the water,
they slowly made their way ashore, and under the welcome shade of the
trees, stood ruminating, no doubt upon their novel experiences of the
last twenty-four hours.
On board again once more, where all is hurry and bustle in order to save
the tide, Captain Leggett being anxious to get through the passage that
night if possible, and in the meantime we are favoured by numerous
visitors from ashore and afloat, if I may use the term, “everybody who
is anybody,” making it a point to avail themselves of the hospitality of
our worthy skipper whenever he drops his kellick in these waters--to say
nothing of the opportunity afforded to these convivial and thirsty souls
of “interviewing the alligator” at the, to them, moderate charge of
sixpence, when compared to their own island tariff of a “robert.” We had
the brave Baron Wilkins, the bold commander of the “Von der Sluyt,” as
grand a hulk as ever stored a cargo of coal, accompanied and supported
by a true specimen of the British Tar, in the person of Captain
Williams, of the equally celebrated clipper “The Star of Peace,” now,
alas, also condemned to the ignoble but useful role of storing coal and
cargo for the ships of the A.U.S.N. Co.
A SHARK STORY.