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[Illustration: with a hand signature of Rufus Estes]
GOOD THINGS TO EAT
AS
SUGGESTED BY RUFUS
A COLLECTION OF PRACTICAL RECIPES FOR
PREPARING MEATS, GAME, FOWL, FISH,
PUDDINGS, PASTRIES, ETC.
BY
RUFUS ESTES
FORMERLY OF THE PULLMAN COMPANY PRIVATE CAR SERVICE, AND PRESENT
CHEF OF THE SUBSIDIARY COMPANIES OF THE UNITED STATES
STEEL CORPORATIONS IN CHICAGO
[Illustration]
CHICAGO
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR
1911
Copyrighted 1911
BY RUFUS ESTES, CHICAGO
FOREWORD
That the average parent is blind to the faults of its offspring is a
fact so obvious that in attempting to prove or controvert it time and
logic are both wasted. Ill temper in a child is, alas! too often
mistaken for an indication of genius; and impudence is sometimes
regarded as a sign of precocity. The author, however, has honestly
striven to avoid this common prejudice. This book, the child of his
brain, and experience, extending over a long period of time and varying
environment, he frankly admits is not without its faults--is far from
perfect; but he is satisfied that, notwithstanding its apparent
shortcomings, it will serve in a humble way some useful purpose.
The recipes given in the following pages represent the labor of years.
Their worth has been demonstrated, not experimentally, but by actual
tests, day by day and month by month, under dissimilar, and, in many
instances, not too favorable conditions.
One of the pleasures in life to the normal man is good eating, and if it
be true that real happiness consists in making others happy, the author
can at least feel a sense of gratification in the thought that his
attempts to satisfy the cravings of the inner man have not been wholly
unappreciated by the many that he has had the pleasure of serving--some
of whom are now his stanchest friends. In fact, it was in response to
the insistence and encouragement of these friends that he embarked in
the rather hazardous undertaking of offering this collection to a
discriminating public.
To snatch from his daily toil a few moments, here and there, in order to
arrange with some degree of symmetry, not the delicacies that would
awaken the jaded appetite of the gourmet, but to prepare an ensemble
that might, with equal grace, adorn the home table or banquet board, has
proven a task of no mean proportions. Encouraged by his friends,
however, he persevered and this volume is the results of his effort.
If, when gathered around the festal board, in camp or by fireside, on
train or ship, "trying out" the recipes, his friends will pause,
retrospectively, and with kindly feelings think from whence some of the
good things emanated, the author will feel amply compensated for the
care, the thought, the labor he has expended in the preparation of the
book; and to those friends, individually and collectively, it is
therefore dedicated.
SKETCH OF MY LIFE
I was born in Murray County, Tennessee, in 1857, a slave. I was given
the name of my master, D. J. Estes, who owned my mother's family,
consisting of seven boys and two girls, I being the youngest of the
family.
After the war broke out all the male slaves in the neighborhood for
miles around ran off and joined the "Yankees." This left us little folks
to bear the burdens. At the age of five I had to carry water from the
spring about a quarter of a mile from the house, drive the cows to and
from the pastures, mind the calves, gather chips, etc.
In 1867 my mother moved to Nashville, Tennessee, my grandmother's home,
where I attended one term of school. Two of my brothers were lost in the
war, a fact that wrecked my mother's health somewhat and I thought I
could be of better service to her and prolong her life by getting work.
When summer came I got work milking cows for some neighbors, for which I
got two dollars a month. I also carried hot dinners for the laborers in
the fields, for which each one paid me twenty-five cents per month. All
of this, of course, went to my mother. I worked at different places
until I was sixteen years old, but long before that time I was taking
care of my mother.
At the age of sixteen I was employed in Nashville by a restaurant-keeper
named Hemphill. I worked there until I was twenty-one years of age. In
1881 I came to Chicago and got a position at 77 Clark Street, where I
remained for two years at a salary of ten dollars a week.
In 1883 I entered the Pullman service, my first superintendent being J.
P. Mehen. I remained in their service until 1897. During the time I was
in their service some of the most prominent people in the world traveled
in the car assigned to me, as I was selected to handle all special
parties. Among the distinguished people who traveled in my care were
Stanley, the African explorer; President Cleveland; President Harrison;
Adelina Patti, the noted singer of the world at that time; Booth and
Barrett; Modjeski and Paderewski. I also had charge of the car for
Princess Eulalie of Spain, when she was the guest of Chicago during the
World's Fair.
In 1894 I set sail from Vancouver on the Empress of China with Mr. and
Mrs. Nathan A. Baldwin for Japan, visiting the Cherry Blossom Festival
at Tokio.
In 1897 Mr. Arthur Stillwell, at that time president of the Kansas City,
Pittsburg & Gould Railroad, gave me charge of his magnificent $20,000
private car. I remained with him seventeen months when the road went
into the hands of receivers, and the car was sold to John W. Gates
syndicate. However, I had charge of the car under the new management
until 1907, since which time I have been employed as chef of the
subsidiary companies of the United States Steel Corporation in Chicago.
HINTS TO KITCHEN MAIDS
It is always necessary to keep your kitchen in the best condition.
~Breakfast~--If a percolator is used it should first be put into
operation. If the breakfast consists of grapefruit, cereals, etc., your
cereal should be the next article prepared. If there is no diningroom
maid, you can then put your diningroom in order. If hot bread is to be
served (including cakes) that is the next thing to be prepared. Your gas
range is of course lighted, and your oven heated. Perhaps you have for
breakfast poached eggs on toast, Deerfoot sausage or boiled ham. One of
the above, with your other dishes, is enough for a person employed
indoors.
When your breakfast gong is sounded put your biscuits, eggs, bread,
etc., in the oven so that they may be ready to serve when the family
have eaten their grapefruit and cereal.
~Luncheon~--This is the easiest meal of the three to prepare.
Yesterday's dinner perhaps consisted of roast turkey, beef or lamb, and
there is some meat left over; then pick out one of my receipts calling
for minced or creamed meats; baked or stuffed potatoes are always nice,
or there may be cold potatoes left over that can be mashed, made into
cakes and fried.
~Dinner~--For a roast beef dinner serve vegetable soup as the first
course, with a relish of vegetables in season and horseradish or
chow-chow pickle, unless you serve salad.
If quail or ducks are to be served for dinner, an old Indian dish, wild
rice, is very desirable. Prepare this rice as follows:
Place in a double boiler a cupful of milk or cream to each cupful of
rice and add salt and pepper to taste. It requires a little longer to
cook than the ordinary rice, but must not be stirred. If it becomes dry
add a little milk from time to time.
Do not serve dishes at the same meal that conflict. For instance, if you
have sliced tomatoes, do not serve tomato soup. If, however, you have
potato soup, it would not be out of place to serve potatoes with your
dinner.
Fish should never be served without a salad of some kind.
The above are merely suggestions that have been of material assistance
to me.
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
Four teaspoonfuls of a liquid equal 1 tablespoonful.
Four tablespoonfuls of a liquid equal 1/2 gill or 1/4 cup.
One-half cup equals 1 gill.
Two gills equal 1 cup.
Two cups equal 1 pint.
Two pints (4 cups) equal 1 quart.
Four cups of flour equal 1 pound or 1 quart.
Two cups of butter, solid, equal 1 pound.
One half cup of butter, solid, equals 1/4 pound 4 ounces.
Two cups of granulated sugar equal 1 pound.
Two and one half cups of powdered sugar equal 1 pound.
One pint of milk or water equals 1 pound.
One pint of chopped meat equals 1 pound.
Ten eggs, shelled, equal 1 pound.
Eight eggs with shells equal 1 pound.
Two tablespoonfuls of butter equal 1 ounce.
Two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar equal 1 ounce.
Four tablespoonfuls of flour equal 1 ounce.
Four tablespoonfuls of coffee equal 1 ounce.
One tablespoonful of liquid equals 1/2 ounce.
Four tablespoonfuls of butter equal 2 ounces or 1/4 cup.
All measurements are level unless otherwise stated in the recipe.
GOOD THINGS TO EAT
SOUPS
~ASPARAGUS SOUP~--Take three pounds of knuckle of veal and put it to
boil in a gallon of water with a couple of bunches of asparagus, boil
for three hours, strain, and return the juice to the pot. Add another
bunch of asparagus, chopped fine, and boil for twenty minutes, mix a
tablespoonful of flour in a cup of milk and add to the soup. Season with
salt and pepper, let it come to a boil, and serve at once.
~BEAN SOUP~--One-half pound or one cup is sufficient for one quart of
soup. Soups can be made which use milk or cream as basis. Any kind of
green vegetable can be used with them, as creamed celery or creamed
cauliflower. The vegetable is cooked and part milk and part water or
part milk and part cream are used.
~BISQUE OF CLAMS~--Place a knuckle of veal, weighing about a pound and
one-half, into a soup kettle, with a quart of water, one small onion, a
sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and the liquor drained from the clams, and
simmer gradually for an hour and a half, skimming from time to time;
strain the soup and again place it in the kettle; rub a couple of
tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour together and add
it to the soup when it is boiling, stirring until again boiling; chop up
twenty-five clams very fine, then place them in the soup, season and
boil for about five minutes, then add a pint of milk or cream, and
remove from the fire immediately, and serve.
~BISQUE OF LOBSTER~--Remove the meat of the lobster from its shell and
cut the tender pieces into quarter-inch dice; put the ends of the
claw-meat and any tough portions in a saucepan with the bones of the
body and a little cold water and boil for twenty minutes, adding a
little water from time to time as may be necessary; put the coral to dry
in a moderate oven, and mix a little flour with some cold milk, and stir
the milk, which should be boiling, stirring over the fire for ten
minutes, then strain the water from the bones and other parts, mix it
with milk, add a little butter, salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, and
rub the dry coral through a fine-haired sieve, putting enough into the
soup having it a bright pink color. Place the grease fat and lobster
dice in a soup tureen, strain the boiling soup over them, and serve at
once.
~BISQUE OF OYSTERS~--Place about thirty medium-sized oysters in a
saucepan together with their own juice and poach them over a hot fire,
after which drain well; then fry a shallot colorless in some butter,
together with an onion, sprinkle over them a little curry and add some
of the oyster juice, seasoning with salt and red pepper. Pound the
oysters to a good firm paste, moistening them with a little of their
juice, and strain through fine tammy cloth. Warm them over the fire, but
do not let them boil; add a small quantity of thickening of potato flour
mixed with a little water. When about to serve incorporate some cream
and fine butter, garnishing with some chopped oysters and mushrooms,
mixed with breadcrumbs and herbs. Add a little seasoning of salt, pepper
and nutmeg, some raw egg yolks, and roll this mixture into ball-shape
pieces, place them on a well-buttered baking sheet in a slack oven and
poach them, then serve.
~BLACK BEAN SOUP~--Wash one pint of black beans, cover with one quart of
cold water and let soak over night. In the morning pour off the water
and pour over three pints of cold water. Cook, covered, until tender,
four or five hours, add one tablespoonful of salt the last hour, rub
through a strainer, add the strained beans to the water in which they
were boiled, return to the soup kettle. Melt one tablespoonful of flour,
stir this into the hot soup, let boil, stirring constantly; add a little
pepper, slice thinly one lemon, put all the slices into the tureen and
pour the soup over. Serve very hot.
~CHESTNUT SOUP~--Peel and blanch the chestnuts, boil them in salted
water until quite soft, pass through a sieve, add more water if too
thick, and a spoonful of butter or several of sweet cream. Season to
taste and serve with small squares of bread fried crisp in butter or
olive oil.
~CHICKEN GUMBO, CREOLE STYLE~--For about twelve or fifteen, one young
hen chicken, half pound ham, quart fresh okra, three large tomatoes, two
onions, one kernel garlic, one small red pepper, two tablespoons flour,
three quarts boiling water, half pound butter, one bay leaf, pinch salt
and cayenne pepper. To mix, mince your ham, put in the bottom of an
iron kettle if preferred with the above ingredients except the chicken.
Clean and cut your chicken up and put in separate saucepan with about a
quart or more of water and teaspoonful of salt; set to the side of the
fire for about an hour; skim when necessary. When the chicken is
thoroughly done strip the meat from the bone and mix both together; just
before serving add a quart of shrimps.
~CREAM OF CELERY SOUP~--Chop fine one head of celery and put on to cook
in one pint of water. Boil until tender, add one pint of milk, thicken
with a spoonful of butter, season to taste, and strain. Then add one
cupful of whipped cream and serve at once.
~EGG SOUP~--Beat three eggs until light, then add one-half cupful of
thick sweet cream and one cupful of milk, pour over this two quarts of
boiling water, set on the fire until it comes to a boil, season to
taste, then pour over broken bread in the tureen and serve.
~GREEN PEA SOUP~--Put one quart of green peas into two cups of boiling
water, add a saltspoon of salt, and cook until tender. Rub peas and
liquor through a puree strainer, add two cups of boiling water, and set
back where the pulp will keep hot. Heat two cups of milk, add a teaspoon
of flour rubbed into a rounding tablespoon of butter, season with salt,
pepper, and a level teaspoon of sugar. Add to the hot vegetable pulp,
heat to the boiling point, and serve.
~GREEN TOMATO SOUP~--Chop fine five green tomatoes and boil twenty
minutes in water to cover. Then add one quart hot milk, to which a
teaspoonful soda has been added, let come to a boil, take from the fire
and add a quarter cupful butter rubbed into four crackers rolled fine,
with salt and pepper to taste.
~ONION SOUP~--Cut three onions small, put one-quarter cup of butter in a
kettle and toast one tablespoon flour till bright yellow in color; in it
mix with this the onions, pour on as much broth as is wanted, add a
little mace and let boil, then strain, allow to cook a little longer,
add yolk of two eggs, and serve.
~PEANUT SOUP~--Made like a dry pea soup. Soak a pint and one-half nut
meats over night in two quarts of water. In the morning add three quarts
of water, bay-leaf, stalk of celery, blade of mace and one slice of
onion. Boil slowly for four or five hours, stirring frequently to keep
from burning. Rub through a sieve and return to the fire, when heated
through again add one cupful of cream. Serve hot with croutons.
~SAGO SOUP~--Wash one-half cup sago in warm water, add desired amount of
boiling broth (meat or chicken), a little mace, and cook until the sago
is soft, and serve.
~SALMON SOUP~--Take the skin and bones from canned salmon and drain off
the oil. Chop fine enough of the fish to measure two-thirds of a cup.
Cook a thick slice of onion in a quart of milk twenty minutes in a
double boiler. Thicken with one-quarter cup of flour rubbed smooth with
one rounding tablespoonful of butter. Cook ten minutes, take out the
onion, add a saltspoon of pepper, one level teaspoon of salt and the
salmon. Rub all through a fine strainer, and serve hot. The amount of
salmon may be varied according to taste.
~SORREL SOUP~--Wash thoroughly a pint of sorrel leaves and put in a
saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, four or five of the large
outside leaves, a sliced onion, and a few small sprigs of parsley. Toss
over the fire for a few minutes, then sift into the pan two
tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until blended with the butter
remaining. Transfer to the soup kettle and pour in gradually, stirring
all the time, three quarts of boiling water. Cook gently for fifteen or
twenty minutes, then add a cupful of mashed potato and one of hot milk.
Season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Have in the soup tureen
some croutons of bread toasted brown, pour the hot soup over them and
serve. The sorrel should be cut in fine pieces before cooking. This is
one of the delicacies of the early spring, its slightly acid flavor
making it particularly appetizing.
~TOMATO SOUP~--Put one quart can of tomatoes, two cups of water,
one-half level tablespoon of sugar, one level teaspoon of salt, four
whole cloves, and four peppercorns together in a saucepan and simmer
twenty minutes. Fry a rounding tablespoon of chopped onion and half as
much minced parsley in a rounding tablespoon of butter until yellow, add
two level tablespoons of cornstarch. Stir until smooth, then turn into
the boiling soup and simmer ten minutes. Add more salt and pepper and
strain.
~TOMATO SOUP~--Into a saucepan put one quart can of tomatoes and two
cups of broth from soup bones. To make this cover the bones and meat
with cold water and simmer slowly for several hours. Add to tomato and
stock a bit of bay leaf, one stalk celery cut in pieces, six
peppercorns, a level teaspoon of salt and a rounding teaspoon of sugar.
Cook slowly until tomato is soft. Meanwhile put a rounding tablespoon of
butter in a small saucepan and when melted and hot turn in a
medium-sized onion cut fine. When this has cooked slowly until yellow,
but not browned, add enough of the tomato to dilute it, then turn all
back into the larger saucepan. Mix and press through a strainer to take
out the seeds and bits of vegetables, reheat, and serve with small
croutons.
~TOMATO SOUP, CORNED BEEF STOCK~--Put one quart can tomatoes on to boil,
add six peppercorns, one-half inch blade of mace and a bit of bay leaf
the same size. Fry one sliced onion in one level tablespoonful butter or
beef fat until slightly colored, add this to the tomato, and simmer
until the tomato is quite soft, and the liquor reduced one-half. Stir in
one-fourth teaspoon of soda, and when it stops foaming turn into a puree
strainer and rub the pulp through. Put the strained tomato on to boil
again and add an equal amount of corned beef liquor, or enough to make
three pints in all.
Melt one heaped tablespoon butter in a smooth saucepan, add one heaped
tablespoon cornstarch, and gradually add part of the boiling soup. Stir
as it thickens, and when smooth stir this into the remainder of the
soup. Add one teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon paprika. Reserve one
pint of this soup to use with spaghetti. Serve buttered and browned
crackers with the soup.
~VEGETABLE BROTH~--Take turnips, carrots, potatoes, beets, celery, all,
or two or three, and chop real fine. Then mix with them an equal amount
of cold water, put in a kettle, just bring to a boil, not allowing it to
boil for about three or four hours, and then drain off the water. The
flavor will be gone from the vegetables and will be in the broth.
~VEGETABLE SOUP~--Take one-half a turnip, two carrots, three potatoes,
three onions and a little cabbage. Run through a meat chopper with
coarse cutter and put to cook in cold water. Cook about three hours. If
you wish you can put a little bit of cooking oil in. When cooked add one
quart of tomatoes. This will need about six quarts of water.
The most nutritious soups are made from peas and beans.
~VEGETABLE SOUP~ (without stock)--One-half cup each of carrot and
turnip, cut into small pieces, three-fourths cup of celery, cut fine,
one very small onion sliced thin, four level tablespoons of butter,
three-fourths cup of potato, cut into small dice, one and one-half
quarts of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste. Prepare the
vegetables and cook the carrot, celery and onion in the butter for ten
minutes without browning. Add the potato and cook for three minutes
longer, then add the water and cook slowly for one hour. Rub through a
sieve, add salt and pepper to taste, and a little butter if desired.
~WHITE SOUP~--Put six pounds of lean gravy beef into a saucepan, with
half gallon of water and stew gently until all the good is extracted and
remove beef. Add to the liquor six pounds of knuckle of veal, one-fourth
pound ham, four onions, four heads of celery, cut into small pieces, a
few peppercorns and bunch of sweet herbs. Stew gently for seven or eight
hours, skimming off the fat as it rises to the top. Mix with the crumbs
of two French rolls two ounces of blanched sweet almonds and put in a
saucepan with a pint of cream and a little stock, boil ten minutes, then
pass through a silk sieve, using a wooden spoon in the process. Mix the
cream and almonds with the soup, turn into a tureen, and serve.
~WINE SOUP~--Put the yolks of twelve eggs and whites of six in an
enameled saucepan and beat thoroughly. Pour in one and a half breakfast
cupfuls of water, add six ounces of loaf sugar, the grated rind and
strained juice of a large lemon, one and one-half pints of white wine.
Whisk the soup over a gentle fire until on the point of boiling,
removing immediately. Turn into a tureen, and serve with a plate of
sponge cakes or fancy biscuits. (This soup should be served as soon as
taken from fire.)
~CHESTNUT SOUP~--Peel and blanch the chestnuts, boil them in salted
water until quite soft, pass through a sieve, add more water if too
thick, and a spoonful of butter or several of sweet cream, season to
taste, and serve with small squares of bread fried crisp in butter or
olive oil.
FISH
~BOILED CODFISH, WITH CREAM SAUCE~--Take out the inside of a cod by the
white skin of the belly, taking care to remove all blood. Place the fish
in a kettle with salted cold water; boil fast at first, then slowly.
When done take out and skin. Pour over it a sauce made as follows:
One-fourth pound butter put into a stewpan with one tablespoonful of
flour, moistened with one pint of cream or rich milk, and salt and
pepper, and also one teaspoonful essence of anchovies. Place the pan
over the fire and let thicken, but not boil.
~BOILED MACKEREL~--Prepare and clean some mackerel. Put in water and
boil until they are done. When cooked, drain and put the mackerel on a
hot dish. Blanch some fennel in salted water. When it is soft drain and
chop finely. Put one tablespoonful in half pint of butter sauce. Serve
in a sauce boat with the fish.
~BOILED SALMON WITH SAUCE TARTARE~--Scrape the skin of the fish, wipe,
and if you have no regular fish kettle with a perforated lid, tie in a
piece of cheesecloth and place gently in a kettle of boiling salted
water. Push the kettle back on the fire (where it will simmer gently,
instead of boiling hard) and cook, allowing about six minutes to the
pound. Remove carefully, drain, and chill. If the fish breaks and looks
badly take out the bones, flake, pile lightly on the platter and pour
the sauce over it. This may be a hot sauce Hollandaise or a cold sauce
tartare.
~BROILED MACKEREL~--Draw and wash the mackerel. Cut off heads and rub
over with salt and leave for an hour. Rub a gridiron with olive oil, lay
the mackerel on it and broil over a charcoal fire. Place some chopped
parsley and onions on a hot dish, with the hot fish, squeezing over the
mackerel a little lemon juice. Serve hot.
~BROILED MACKEREL, WITH BLACK BUTTER~--Take some mackerel, open and
remove bones. Season with butter, pepper, and salt. Place the fish on a
gridiron and broil over a clear fire. Put a part of the butter in a
saucepan and stir it over the fire until it is richly browned, squeezing
into it a little lemon juice. Place the fish on a hot dish, arrange some
sprigs of parsley around it, and pour over it the butter sauce, and
serve hot.
~CODFISH CONES~--When it is not convenient to make and fry fish balls
try this substitute. Pick enough salt codfish into shreds to measure two
cups and let stand in cold water for two or more hours, then drain dry.
Make a sauce from one cup of hot milk, two level tablespoons each of
flour and butter, and cook five minutes. Mash and season enough hot
boiled potatoes to measure two cups, add the sauce and the fish and beat
well with a fork. Shape in small cones, set on a butter pan, brush with
melted butter and scatter fine bread crumbs over. Set in oven to brown.
~CODFISH HASH~--Take a cup of cooked cod, pick in pieces and soak in
cold water for twelve hours. Boil some potatoes and add them to the
finely chopped fish, a little at a time. Put in a saucepan with some
butter and stir. Let it cook gently.
~FINNAN HADDIE FISH CAKES~--The finnan haddie parboiled with an equal
quantity of mashed potatoes, season with melted butter, salt and pepper,
add a beaten egg, and mold into cakes.
~FISH, EAST INDIA STYLE~--Peel two medium-sized onions, cut into thin
slices. Put in a stewpan with a small lump of butter and fry until
lightly browned. Pour over them some white stock, judging the quantity
by that of the fish; one ounce of butter, little curry powder, salt,
lemon juice, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper. Boil the stock for
fifteen or twenty minutes, then strain into a stewpan, skim and put in
the fish, having it carefully prepared. Boil gently, without breaking
the fish. Wash and boil half a cup of rice in water, and when cooked it
should be dried and the grains unbroken. Turn the curry out on a hot
dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread. Serve hot, with the rice in
separate dish.
~FISH EN CASSEROLE~--One of those earthen baking dishes with
close-fitting cover of the same ware and fit for placing on the table is
especially useful for cooking fish. For instance, take two pounds of the
thick part of cod or haddock, both of which are cheap fish. Take off
the skin and lay in the casserole. Make a sauce from two cups of milk
heated, with a good slice of onion, a rounding tablespoon of minced
parsley, a small piece of mace, a few gratings of the yellow rind of
lemon, half a level teaspoon of salt, and a little white pepper. Cook in
the top of a double boiler for twenty minutes. Heat one-quarter cup of
butter in a saucepan, add three level tablespoons of flour, and cook
smooth, turn on the hot milk after straining out the seasonings. Cook
until thick and pour over the fish. Cover and bake half hour, then if
the fish is done serve in the same dish with little finely minced
parsley scattered over.
~LOUISIANA COD~--Melt one-quarter cup of butter and let it begin to
color, add two level tablespoons of flour and stir until smooth. Add one
cup of water and cook five minutes. Add half a level teaspoon of salt,
half as much pepper, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Chop fine one
medium-size onion and one small green pepper, after taking out the
seeds. Brown them in two tablespoons of butter, add one cup of strained
tomatoes, a bit of bay leaf, and the prepared sauce. Put slices of cod
cut an inch thick into a casserole, pour on the sauce, cover closely,
and bake in a slow oven three-quarters of an hour.
~METELOTE OF HADDOCK~--Wash and skin the haddock and remove the flesh
from the bones in firm pieces suitable for serving. Put the head, bones
and trimmings to cook in cold water and add a small sliced onion and
salt and pepper. Boil six good-sized onions until tender, then drain and
slice and put half of them into a buttered baking dish. Arrange the
pieces of fish on these, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the
remaining onions. Drain the fish from the trimmings, add to it two
tablespoons lemon juice and pour it over onions and fish. Cover very
closely and cook in the oven until the fish is tender. Then drain off
the liquid, heat it to the boiling point, and thicken it with two eggs
slightly beaten and diluted with a little of the hot liquid. Arrange the
onions on a hot platter and place the fish on top, then pour over the
thickened liquid.
~A MOLD OF SALMON~--If where one cannot get fresh fish, the canned
salmon makes a delicious mold. Serve very cold on a bed of crisp lettuce
or cress. Drain off the juice from a can of salmon, and flake, picking
out every fragment of bone and skin. Mix with the fish one egg lightly
beaten, the juice of a half lemon, a cup fine dry bread crumbs, and salt
and pepper to season. Pack in a buttered mold which has a tight-fitting
tin cover, steam for two hours, and cool. After it gets quite cold set
on the ice until ready to carve.
~OYSTERS A LA POULETTE~--One quart oysters, four level tablespoons
butter, four level tablespoons flour, one-half level teaspoon salt,
one-fourth level teaspoon celery salt, one-half cup oysters liquor, one
cup each of chicken stock and milk, juice one-half lemon. Look over the
oysters, heat quickly to the boiling point, then drain and strain the
liquor through cheesecloth. Melt the butter, add the flour, salt and
celery salt, and when blended add the oyster liquor, chicken stock and
milk, stirring until thick and smooth. Cook for five minutes, then add
the oysters and lemon juice, and serve at once.
~OYSTER FRICASSE~--Put one pint of oysters into a double boiler or into
the top of the chafing dish. As soon as the edges curl add the slightly
beaten yolks of three eggs, a few grains of pepper and half a teaspoon
of salt. Set over hot water and as soon as the egg thickens add a
teaspoon of lemon juice. Spread on slices of toasted brown bread and
garnish with celery tips. Celery salt is a good addition to the
seasoning.
~RECHAUFFE OF FINNAN HADDIE~--Cover a finnan haddie with boiling water
and let it simmer for twenty minutes, then remove the kettle and flake,
discarding the skin and bones. For three cups of fish scald two cups of
thin cream and add to the fish. Season with paprika or a dash of
cayenne, and when thoroughly heated stir in the yolks of two eggs,
diluted with a little hot cream.
~SCALLOPED CLAMS IN SHELL~--Chop the clams very fine and season with
salt and cayenne pepper. In another dish mix some powdered crackers,
moistened first with warm milk, then with clam liquor, a beaten egg and
some melted butter, the quantity varying with the amount of clams used;
stir in the chopped clams. Wash clean as many shells as the mixture will
fill, wipe and butter them, fill heaping full with the mixture,
smoothing with a spoon. Place in rows in a baking pan and bake until
well browned. Send to the table hot.
~SCALLOPED SHRIMPS~--Make a sauce with a level tablespoon of cornstarch,
a rounding tablespoon of butter and one cup of milk cooked together five
minutes. Season with one-quarter level teaspoon of salt and a few grains
of cayenne. Add one can of shrimps after removing all bits of shell and
mincing them fine. Use, if preferred, the same amount of fresh shrimps.
Put into buttered scallop shells, scatter fine bread crumbs over the
top of each, and dot with bits of butter. Set in a quick oven to brown
the crumbs, and serve hot in the shells.
~STEWED CODFISH~--Take a piece of boiled cod, remove the skin and bones
and pick into flakes. Put these in a stewpan, with a little butter,
salt, pepper, minced parsley and juice of a lemon. Put on the fire and
when the contents of the pan are quite hot the fish is ready to serve.
~CODFISH CONES~--When it is not convenient to make and preparation into
shapes, dip them into egg beaten with cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs
and let them stand for half an hour or so to dry; then fry them a
delicate color after plunging into boiling lard. Take them out, drain,
place on a napkin on a dish and serve. The remainder of the chicken
stock may be used for making consomme or soup.
BEEF, VEAL AND PORK
~BEEF EN CASSEROLE~--Have a steak cut two inches thick and broil two
minutes on each side. Lay in a casserole and pour round two cups of rich
brown sauce; add three onions cut in halves.
~BEEF HASH CAKES~--Chop cold corned beef fine and add a little more than
the same measure of cold boiled potatoes, chopped less fine than the
beef. Season with onion juice, make into small cakes, and brown in
butter or beef drippings; serve each cake on a slice of buttered toast
moistened slightly.
~BEEF RAGOUT~--Another way to serve the remnants of cold meat is to melt
one rounding tablespoon of butter in a pan and let it brown lightly. Add
two rounding tablespoons of flour and stir until smooth and browned; add
one cup of strained tomato and one cup of stock or strained gravy, or
part gravy and part water. When this sauce is thickened add two cups of
meat cut in small, thin slices or shavings. Stir until heated through
and no longer, as that will harden the meat. Season with salt and
pepper, and serve at once.
~BOILED BONED HAM~--Wash a ham, place it in a saucepan, cover with cold
water and boil for four or five hours, according to its size. Take out
the bone, roll the ham and place it in a basin with a large weight on
top. When cold put it on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
~BONED HAM~--Have the bone taken from a small ham and put into a kettle
of cold water with one onion cut in quarters, a dozen cloves, and a bay
leaf. Cook slowly until tender and do not test it until you have allowed
fifteen minutes to the pound. Take from the kettle, remove the skin,
brush with beaten egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and set in the oven to
brown.
~BREADED CUTLETS~--Have the cutlets cut into portions of the right size
for serving. Dust each side with salt and pepper. Beat one egg with a
tablespoon of cold water, dip the cutlets in this and roll in fine bread
crumbs. Fry three slices of salt pork in the frying-pan and cook the
cutlets in this fat. As veal must be well done to be wholesome, cook it
slowly about fifteen minutes. Serve with a gravy made from the contents
of the pan or with a tomato sauce.
~BROILED LIVER AND BACON~--As broiling in most cases is wasteful, the
liver and bacon are generally fried together, but the dish is somewhat
spoiled by this method. The best way is to fry the well-trimmed slices
of bacon, and after having washed and sliced the liver, say a third of
an inch thick, dry it on a cloth and dip in flour. Place in the bacon
fat and broil over a clear fire, adding pepper and salt while cooking.
When done lay on a dish, placing a piece of bacon on each piece of
liver.
~BROILED PIG'S FEET~--Thoroughly clean as many pig's feet as are
required, and split lengthwise in halves, tying them with a broad tape
so they will not open in cooking. Put in a saucepan with a seasoning of
parsley, thyme, bay leaf, allspice, carrots and onions, with sufficient
water to cover. Boil slowly until tender, and let them cool in the
liquor. Dip in the beaten yolks of eggs and warmed butter. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper and cover with bread crumbs seasoned with very finely
chopped shallot and parsley. Put on a gridiron over a clear fire and
broil until well and evenly browned. Unbind and arrange on a dish,
garnish with fried parsley and serve.
~BROILED SHEEP'S KIDNEYS~--To broil sheep's kidneys cut them open, put
them on small skewers. Season with salt and pepper and broil. When done
serve with shallot or maitre d'hotel sauce.
~BRUNSWICK STEW~--Cut up one chicken, preferably a good fat hen, cover
with cold water, season with salt and pepper, and cook slowly until
about half done. Add six ears of green corn, splitting through the
kernels, one pint butter beans and six large tomatoes chopped fine. A
little onion may be added if desired. Cook until the vegetables are
thoroughly done, but very slowly, so as to avoid burning. Add strips of
pastry for dumplings and cook five minutes. Fresh pork can be used in
place of the chicken and canned vegetables instead of the fresh.
~CALVES' TONGUES~--Wash and put into a saucepan with half a dozen slices
of carrot, an onion sliced, five cloves, a teaspoon of whole
peppercorns, and half a level tablespoon of salt. Cover with boiling
water and simmer until tender. Drain and cool a little, then take off
the skin. Drop back into the hot liquid to reheat. Serve with a sauce.
Melt one-quarter cup of butter, add three slightly rounding tablespoons
of flour, stir and cook until browned, add two cups of broth, brown
stock of rich gravy melted in hot water, one-half level teaspoon of
salt, the same of paprika, a saltspoon of allspice, one tablespoon of
vinegar, a few grains of cayenne, and half a tablespoon of capers. Pour
over the tongues and serve.
~CORNED BEEF HASH~--To two cups of chopped cold corned beef, add two
cups of chopped cold boiled potatoes. Heat three tablespoons of bacon
fat in a frying pan and add the meat and potato, add pepper and salt, if
necessary, and moisten with water. Cook slowly until a nice brown
underneath. Roll from the pan on to a hot platter. Garnish with parsley
and serve with pickled beets.
~ENGLISH POT ROAST~--Cut one pound of cold roast into two-inch pieces,
slice four good sized potatoes thin, also one onion, into a deep dish,
put a layer of the beef, one of potatoes, one of onions, salt and
pepper, another layer of meat, potatoes and onions, season again, add
one cup gravy, and over all put a thick layer of potatoes. Bake three
hours--the longer and slower the better.
~FRANKFORT SAUSAGE~--For this use any part of the pig, but equal
quantities of lean and fat. Mince fine, season with ground coriander
seed, salt, pepper, and a small quantity of nutmeg. Have ready skins,
well cleaned and soaked in cold water for several hours, fill with the
seasoned meat, secure the ends and hang in a cool, dry place until
needed.
~FRIED HAM~--Cut off a thick slice of ham. Place in a saucepan over the
fire, with sufficient water to cover and let come to a boil. Pour off
the water, and fry the ham slowly until it is brown on both sides.
Season with pepper and serve. Eggs are usually served with fried ham.
They may be fried in the same pan or separately, in sufficient grease to
prevent burning. Season with salt and pepper, place around the ham.
~HAM AND CHICKEN PIE~--Trim off the skin of some cold chicken and cut
the meat into small pieces. Mix with an equal quantity of finely chopped
lean ham and a small lot of chopped shallot. Season with salt, pepper
and pounded mace, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of white stock.
Butter a pie dish, line the edges with puff paste and put in the
mixture, placing puff paste over the top. Trim it around the edges,
moisten and press together, cut a small hole in the top, and bake in a
moderate oven. When cooked, pour a small quantity of hot cream through
the hole in the top of the pie, and serve.
~HAM CROQUETTES~--Chop very fine one-fourth of a pound of ham; mix with
it an equal quantity of boiled and mashed potatoes, two hard boiled eggs
chopped, one tablespoonful chopped parsley. Season to taste. Then stir
in the yolk of an egg. Flour the hands and shape the mixture into small
balls. Fry in deep fat. Place on a dish, garnish with parsley and serve.
~HASH WITH DROPPED EGGS~--Mince or grind cold cooked meat and add
two-thirds as much cold chopped vegetables. The best proportions of
vegetables are half potato and one-quarter each of beets and carrots.
Put a little gravy stock or hot water with butter melted in it, into a
saucepan, turn in the meat and vegetables and heat, stirring all the
time. Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion juice if liked. Turn
into a buttered baking dish, smooth over, and set in the oven to brown.
Take up and press little depressions in the top, and drop an egg into
each. Set back into the oven until the egg is set, but not cooked hard.
Serve in the same dish.
~LAMB CHOPS EN CASSEROLE~--Trim off the superfluous fat from the chops,
and place them in a casserole with a medium sized onion, sliced and
separated into rings. Cover each layer of chops with the onion rings,
then add a pint of boiling water. Cover and cook for one hour and
one-half in a moderate oven. Add salt and pepper and some sliced carrot,
and cook until the carrot is tender. Remove the chops to a hot platter
and pour over them the gravy which may be thickened, then garnish with
the carrot.
~LAMB CURRY~--Cut the meat into small pieces, (and the inferior
portions, such as the neck can be utilized in a curry), roll in flour
and fry in hot olive oil, pork fat, or butter, until a rich brown. Mince
or slice an onion and fry in the same way. Then put into a saucepan,
cover with boiling water, and simmer until the bones and gristly pieces
will slip out. When the meat is sufficiently tender add a cupful each
strained tomato and rice, then a powder. Cook ten minutes longer and
serve.
~MEAT PIE~--Chop fine, enough of cold roast beef to make two cupfuls,
also one small onion, pare as many potatoes as desired and boil, mash
and cream as for mashed potatoes. Drain a cupful of tomato liquid free
from seeds, stir meat, onion and tomato juice together, put in a deep
dish, spread potatoes over the top and bake in a hot oven.
~MINCED MUTTON~--Mince the meat from a cold roast of mutton, put into a
saucepan. Make a roux, moisten with a little stock and season with salt
and pepper, adding butter and some gherkins. Put the minced meat into
the sauce and let it cook without boiling. Serve with thin slices of
bread around the plate.
~PIG'S EARS, LYONNAISE~--Singe off all the hair from pig's ears, scrape
and wash well and cut lengthwise into strips. Place them in a saucepan
with a little stock, add a small quantity of flour, a few slices of
onion fried, salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan over a slow fire
and simmer until the ears are thoroughly cooked. Arrange on a dish, add
a little lemon juice to the liquor and pour over the ears. Serve with a
garnish of fried bread.
~PORK CUTLETS AND ANCHOVY SAUCE~--Broil on a well greased gridiron, over
the fire, nicely cut and trimmed cutlets of pork. Place frills on the
bones of the cutlets. Serve very hot with Anchovy Sauce.
~RAGOUT OF COOKED MEAT~--Cut one pint of cold meat into half-inch dice,
removing the fat, bone and gristle. Put the meat into a stew pan, cover
with boiling water and simmer slowly two or three hours or until very
tender. Then add half a can of mushrooms cut fine, two tablespoons of
lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Wet one tablespoonful of
cornstarch to a smooth paste with a little cold water and stir into the
boiling liquor, add a teaspoon of caramel if not brown enough. Cook ten
minutes and serve plain or in a border of mashed potatoes. The seasoning
may be varied by using one teaspoon of curry powder, a few grains of
cayenne or half a tumbler of currant jelly and salt to taste.
~RICE AND BEEF CROQUETTES~--To use up cold meat economically combine two
cups of chopped beef or mutton with two cups of freshly boiled rice.
Season well with salt, pepper, onion juice, a large teaspoon of minced
parsley, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Pack on a large plate and set
away to cool. After the mixture is cold, shape into croquettes, dip into
beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat.
~ROLLED RIB ROAST~--Have the backbone and ribs removed and utilize them
for making a stew for lunch. Tie the meat into a round shape and
sprinkle it with salt and pepper, then dredge with flour and place in a
dripping pan. Have the oven hot when the meat is first put into it, in
order that it may be seared over quickly to prevent the juices from
escaping. Then reduce the heat and baste with the fat in the pan. When
done place on a hot platter and surround with riced potato.
~SHEEP'S BRAINS, WITH SMALL ONIONS~--Take sheep's brains. Soak in
lukewarm water and blanch. Stew with thin slices of bacon, a little
white wine, parsley, shallots, cloves, small onions, salt and pepper.
When done arrange the brains on a dish, with the onion's around; reduce
the sauce and serve. Calves' brains may be dressed in the same way.
~SHEEP'S TONGUES~--Sheep's tongues are usually boiled in water and then
broiled. To dress them, first skin and split down the center. Dip them
in butter or sweet oil, mixed with parsley, green onions, mushrooms,
clove of garlic, all shredded fine, salt and pepper. Then cover with
bread crumbs and broil. Serve with an acid sauce.
~SHOULDER OF VEAL BRAISED~--Buy a shoulder of veal and ask the butcher
to bone it and send the bones with the meat. Cover the bones with cold
water and when it comes to a boil skim, then add a little onion and
carrot and a few seasoning herbs and any spices desired. Simmer gently
for an hour or so until you have a pint of stock. To make the stuffing
take a stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold water
until soft. Rub the crumbs of the loaf as fine as possible in the hands,
then add to the soaked and softened crust. Chop a half cup of suet fine,
put into a frying pan a tablespoon of the suet, and when hot add an
onion chopped fine. Cook until brown then add to the bread with regular
poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper, and a bit of thyme. Mix well and
stuff the cavity in the shoulder, then pull the flaps of the meat over
and sew up. Put the rest of the suet in the frying pan and having
dusted the meat with flour, salt and pepper and a sprinkling of sugar,
brown on all sides in the fat into the bottom of the braising pan, which
may be any shallow iron pot or granite kettle with a tight cover, put a
layer of thin sliced onions and carrots, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of
parsley, and on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour hot
stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot oven for three hours.
~SPANISH CHOPS~--Gash six French chops on outer edge, extending cut more
than half way through lean meat. Stuff, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs,
fry in deep fat five minutes and drain on brown paper.
For the stuffing mix six tablespoons of soft bread crumbs, three
tablespoons of chopped cooked ham, two tablespoons chopped mushroom
caps, two tablespoons melted butter, salt and pepper to taste.
~HARICOT OF MUTTON~--To make a la bourgeoise, cut a shoulder of mutton
in pieces about the width of two fingers. Mix a little butter with a
tablespoonful of flour and place over a slow fire, stirring until the
color of cinnamon. Put in the pieces of meat, giving them two or three
turns over the fire, then add some stock, if you have it, or about half
pint of hot water, which must be stirred in a little at a time. Season
with salt, pepper, parsley, green onions, bay leaf, thyme, garlic,
cloves, and basil. Set the whole over a slow fire and when half done
skim off as much fat as possible. Have ready some turnips, cut in
pieces, and stew with the meat. When done take out the herbs and skim
off what fat remains, reducing the stock if too thin.
~VEAL CROQUETTES~--Make a thick sauce from one cup of milk, two level
tablespoons of butter, and four level tablespoons of flour. Cook five
minutes, season with salt, pepper and celery salt, and a few drops of
lemon juice, and a tablespoon of finely minced parsley. Add two cups of
cold cooked veal chopped fine and cool the mixture. Shape into little
rolls, dip in an egg beaten with one tablespoon of water then roll in
fine bread crumbs. Fry in deep smoking hot fat. Be sure to coat the
whole surface with egg and to have the fat very hot, as the mixture has
been cooked once and merely needs beating to the center and browning on
the outside.
~VEAL LOAF~--Mince fine three pounds lean raw veal and a quarter of a
pound of fat pork. Add a half onion chopped fine or grated, a
tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful pepper and a teaspoonful seasoning
herbs. Mix well, add two-thirds of a cup cracker crumbs, a half cup veal
gravy, the yolk of one egg and the whites of two beaten together. Form
into a loaf, pressing firmly together. Brush over with the yolk of an
egg, dust with finely rolled cracker crumbs and set in a greased rack in
the dripping pan. When it begins to brown, turn a cup of hot water into
the pan and baste frequently until done. It will take about an hour and
a half in a moderate oven.