36 deg. In my room to-night the wet floor is frozen hard and the mercury
is 20 deg. This is nothing after 12 deg. and 16 deg. below zero, but the furious
east wind and a singular dampness in the air make it very severe.
Yesterday, before the sky clouded over, there was a most remarkable
ring or halo of prismatic colours round the sun, ominous of the storm
which has followed.
This place standing high without shelter is fearfully exposed; there
is no milk and no comfort of any kind for the sick men. We have
decided to wrap them up and move them to Kum, where there is a Persian
doctor with a European education; but it is a great risk, though the
lesser of two. I have just finished four protectors for the back and
chest, three-quarters of a yard long by sixteen inches wide, buttoning
on the shoulders, of a very soft felt _namad_ nearly half an inch
thick--a precaution much to be commended.
I think that Hadji, though in great pain, poor fellow, is partly
shamming. He professed this evening to have violent fever, and the
thermometer shows that he has none. Even the few things which I
thought he had done for me, such as making _chapatties_, I find have
been done by others. It is a pity for himself as well as for me that
he should be so incorrigibly lazy.
_Taj Khatan, Feb. 18._--Yesterday we had a severe march, and owing
first to the depth of the snow, and then to the depth of the mud, we
were seven hours in doing twenty-one miles. The wind was still
intensely cold--bitter indeed. There are few remarks to be made about
a country buried in snow. The early miles were across the fag end of
the dazzling plain of Feraghan, which instead of being covered with
villages is an uninhabited desert with a salt lake. Then the road
winds among mountains of an altitude of 8000 and 9000 feet and more,
its highest point being 8350 feet, where we began a descent which will
land us at Tihran at a level under 4000 feet. Snowy mountains and
snowy plains were behind--bare brown earth was to come all too soon.
Winding wearily round low hills, meeting caravans of camels to which
we had to give way, and of asses floundering in the snow, we came in
the evening to a broad slope with villages, poplars, walnuts, and
irrigated lands, then to the large and picturesquely situated village
of Givr on a steep bank above a rapid stream, and just at dusk to the
important village of Jairud, also on high ground above the same river,
and surrounded by gardens and an extraordinary number of fruit trees.
The altitude is 6900 feet.[21] I had a _balakhana_, very cold, and was
fairly benumbed for some time after the long cold march.
A great many people applied for medicine, and some of the maladies,
specially when they affect children, make one sick at heart. Hadji is
affecting to be stone deaf, so he no longer interprets for sick
people, which creates an additional difficulty. We left this morning
at ten, descended 2000 feet, and suddenly left the snow behind. Vast,
gray, and grim the snow-covered mountains looked as they receded into
indigo gloom, with snow clouds drifting round their ghastly heads and
across the dazzling snow plains in which we had been floundering for
thirty days. It is strange to see mother earth once more--rocky, or
rather stony hills, mud hills, mud plains, mud slopes, a brown world,
with a snow world above. Two pink hills rise above the brown plain,
and some toothed peaks, but the rest of the view is simply hills and
slopes of mud and gravel, bearing thorns, and the relics of last
year's thistles and wormwood. The atmospheric colouring is, however,
very fine.
[Illustration: PERSIAN BREAD-MAKING.]
This is a large village with beehive roofs in, and of, mud. A quagmire
surrounds it and is in the centre of it, and the crumbling houses are
thrown promiscuously down upon it. It is nearly the roughest place I
have seen, and the worst accommodation, though Abbas Khan says it is
the best house in the village. My room has an oven in the floor,
neatly lined with clay, and as I write the women are making bread by a
very simple process. The oven is well heated by the live embers of
animal fuel. They work the flour and water dough, to which a piece of
leaven from the last baking has been added, into a flat round cake,
about eighteen inches in diameter and half an inch thick, place it
quickly on a very dirty cushion, and clap it against the concave
interior of the oven, withdrawing the cushion. In one minute it is
baked and removed.
A sloping hole in the floor leads to the fowl-house. The skin of a
newly-killed sheep hangs up. A pack saddle and gear take up one
corner, my bed another, and the owner's miscellaneous property fills
up the rest of the blackened, cracked mud hovel, thick with the sooty
cobwebs and dust of generations. The door, which can only be shut by
means of a wooden bolt outside, is six inches from the ground, so that
fowls and cats run in and out with impunity. Behind my bed there is a
doorless entrance to a dark den, full of goat's hair, bones, and other
stores. In front there is a round hole for letting in light, which I
persistently fill up with a blanket which is as persistently
withdrawn. There is no privacy, for though the people are glad to let
their rooms, they only partially vacate them, and are in and out all
the time. Outside there is mud a foot deep, then a steep slope, and a
disgusting green pool, and the drinking water is nauseous and
brackish. The village people here and everywhere seem of a very
harmless sort.
_Kum, Ash Wednesday, 1890._--It was really very difficult to get away
from Taj Khatan. The _charvadar_ came on here, leaving only two men to
load twelve mules. M---- practically had to load them himself, and to
reload them when the tackle broke and the loads turned. Hadji and the
cook were quite incapable, the Afghan orderly, who seemed like a dying
man, was left behind; in fact there were no servants and no
interpreters, and the groom was so ill he could hardly sit on a horse.
The march of twenty-five miles took fully eight hours, but on the Arab
horse, and with an occasional gallop, I got through quite comfortably,
and have nothing to complain of. The road lies through a country of
mud hills, brown usually, drab sometimes, streaked with deep madder
red, and occasionally pale green clay--stones, thistles, and thorns
their only crop. [I passed over much of this country in the spring,
and though there were a few flowers, chiefly bulbs, and the thorns
were clothed with a scanty leafage, and the thistles and artemisia
were green-gray instead of buff, the general aspect of the region was
the same.] There was not a village on the route, only two or three
heaps of deserted ruins and two or three ruinous mud _imamzadas_, no
cultivation, streams, or springs, the scanty pools brackish, here and
there the glittering whiteness of saline efflorescence, not a tree or
even bush, nothing living except a few goats, picking up, who knows
how, a scanty living,--a blighted, blasted region, a land without a
_raison d'etre_.
Then came low mud ranges, somewhat glorified by atmosphere, higher
hills on the left, ghastly with snow which was even then falling,
glimpses far away to the northward of snowy mountains among heavy
masses of sunlit clouds, an ascent, a gap in the mud hills, some low
peaks of white, green, and red clay, a great plain partly green with
springing wheat, and in the centre, in the glow of sunset, the golden
dome and graceful minarets of the shrine of Fatima, the sister of
Reza, groups of trees, and the mud houses, mud walls, and many domes
and minarets of the sacred city of Kum.
Descending, we trotted for some miles through irrigated wheat, passed
a walled garden or two, rode along the bank of the Abi Khonsar or Abi
Kum, which we had followed down from Givr, admired the gleaming domes
and tiled minarets of the religious buildings on its bank, and the
nine-arched brick bridge which spans it, and reached a sort of hotel
outside the gates, a superior caravanserai with good, though terribly
draughty guest-rooms upstairs, furnished with beds, chairs, and
tables, suited for the upper class of pilgrims who resort to this
famous shrine.
To have arrived here in good health, and well able for the remaining
journey of nearly a hundred miles, is nothing else than a triumph of
race, of good feeding through successive generations, of fog-born
_physique_, nurtured on damp east winds!
There is an air of civilisation about this place. The rooms have
windows with glass panes and doors which shut, a fountain in front,
beyond that a garden, and then the river, and the golden shrine of
Fatima and its exquisite minarets. My door opens on a stone-flagged
roof with a fine view of the city and hills--an excellent place for
taking exercise. So strong is Mohammedan fanaticism here that much as
I should like to see the city, it would be a very great risk to walk
through it except in disguise.
M---- borrowed a _taktrawan_ from the telegraph clerk and sent it back
with two horses to Taj Khatan for the orderly, who was left there very
ill yesterday morning, under Abbas Khan's charge, the Khan feeling so
ill that he lay down inside it instead of riding. Hadji gave up work
altogether, so I unpacked and pitched my bed, glad to be warmed by
exercise. Near 8 P.M. Abbas Khan burst into the "parlour" saying that
the _taktrawan_ horses were stuck in the mud. He evidently desired to
avoid the march back, but two mules have been sent to replace the
horses, and two more are to go to-morrow. The orderly was so ill that
I expect his corpse rather than himself.
This morning Hadji, looking fearful, told me that he should die
to-day, and he and the cook are now in bed in opposite corners of a
room below, with a good fire, feverish and moaning. It is really a
singular disaster, and shows what the severity of the journey has
been. The Persian doctor, with a European medical education, on whom
our hopes were built, when asked to come and see these poor men,
readily promised to do so; but the Princess, the Shah's daughter,
whose physician he is, absolutely refuses permission, on the ground
that we have come through a region in which there is supposed to be
cholera!
I. L. B.
FOOTNOTES:
[20] This custom, supposed to be an allusion to our Lord and His
mother, is described by Morier in his _Second Journey in Persia_.
[21] Jairud exports fruit to Kum and even to Tihran, and in the autumn
I was interested to find that the best pears and peaches in the
Hamadan market came from its luxuriant orchards.
LETTER VII
KUM, _Feb. 21_.
At five yesterday afternoon Abbas Khan rode in saying that the
_taktrawan_, with the orderly much better, was only three miles off.
This was good news; a mattress was put down for him next the fire and
all preparations for his comfort were made. Snow showers had been
falling much of the day, there was a pitiless east wind, and as
darkness came on snow fell persistently. Two hours passed, but no
_taktrawan_ arrived. At 7.30 Abbas Khan was ordered to go in search of
it with a good lantern; 8, 9, 10 o'clock came without any news. At
10.30, the man whose corpse I had feared to see came in much
exhausted, having crawled for two miles through the mire and snow. The
_sowar_, who pretended to start with the lantern, never went farther
than the coffee-room at the gate, where he had spent an
unconscientious but cheery evening!
In the pitch darkness the _taktrawan_ and mules had fallen off the
road into a gap, the _taktrawan_ was smashed, and a good white mule,
one of the "light division," was killed, her back being broken. This
was not the only disaster. Hadji had lain down on the borrowed
mattress and it had taken fire from the live ashes of his pipe and was
burned, and he was a little scorched.
The telegraphist was to have started for Isfahan the next morning with
his wife and child in the litter, in order to vacate the house for
the new official and his family, and their baggage had actually
started, but now they are detained till this _taktrawan_ can be
repaired. In the meantime another official has arrived with his goods
and a large family, a most uncomfortable situation for both parties,
but they bear it with the utmost cheerfulness and good nature.
Last night I made Hadji drink a mug of hot milk with two
tablespoonfuls of brandy in it, and it worked wonders. This morning,
instead of a nearly blind man groping his way about with difficulty, I
beheld a man with nothing the matter but a small speck on one eye. It
must have been snow-blindness. He looks quite "spry." It is not only
the alcohol which has cured him, but that we are parting by mutual
consent; and feeling sorry for the man, I have given him more than his
wages, and his full demand for his journey back to Bushire, with
additional warm clothing. M---- has also given him a handsome present.
I fear he has deceived me, and that the stone deafness, feebleness,
idiocy, and the shaking, palsied gait of a man of ninety--all but the
snow-blindness--have been assumed in order to get his return journey
paid, when he found that the opportunities for making money were not
what he expected. It is better to be deceived twenty times than to be
hard on these poor fellows once, but he has been exasperating, and I
feel somewhat aggrieved at having worked so hard to help a man who was
"malingering." The last seen of him was an active, erect man walking
at a good pace by the side of his mule, at least forty years thrown
off. [He did not then leave Kum, but being seized with pleurisy was
treated with great kindness by Mr. Lyne the electrician, and
afterwards by the Amin-es-Sultan (the Prime Minister), who was
visiting Kum, and who, thinking to oblige me, brought him up to
Tihran in his train!] Those who had known him for years gave a very
bad account of him, but said that if he liked he could be a good
servant. It is the first time that I have been unfortunate in my
travelling servant.
The English telegraph line, and a post-office, open once a week, are
the tokens of civilisation in Kum. A telegraphic invitation from the
British Minister in Tihran, congratulatory telegrams on our safety
from Tihran, Bushire, and India, and an opportunity for posting
letters, make one feel once more in the world. The weather is grim,
bitterly cold, with a strong north-east wind, raw and damp, but while
snow is whitening the hills only rain and sleet fall here. The sun has
not shone since we came, but the strong cold air is invigorating like
our own climate.
Taking advantage of it being Friday, the Mohammedan day of rest, when
most of the shops are closed and the bazars are deserted, we rode
through a portion of them preceded by the wild figure of Abbas Khan,
and took tea at the telegraph office, where they were most kind and
pleasant regarding the accident which had put them to so much
inconvenience.
Kum is on the beaten track, and has a made road to Tihran. Almost
every book of travels in Persia has something to say upon it, but
except that it is the second city in Persia in point of sanctity, and
that it thrives as much by the bodies of the dead which are brought in
thousands for burial as by the tens of thousands of pilgrims who
annually visit the shrine of Fatima, and that it is renowned for
fanaticism, there is not much to say about it.
Situated in a great plain, the gleam of its golden dome and its
slender minarets is seen from afar, and the deep green of its
orchards, and the bright green of the irrigated and cultivated lands
which surround it, are a splash of welcome fertility on the great
brown waste. Singular toothy peaks of striated marl of brilliant
colouring--red, blue, green, orange, and salt peaks very white--give a
curious brilliancy to its environment, but this salt, which might be a
source of wealth to the city, is not worked, only an ass-load or two
at a time being brought in to supply the necessities of the market.
[Illustration: THE SHRINE OF FATIMA.]
The shrine of Fatima, the sister of Reza the eighth Imam, who sleeps
at Meshed, is better to Kum than salt mines or aught else. Moslems,
though they regard women with unspeakable contempt, agree to reverence
Fatima as a very holy and almost worshipful person, and her dust
renders Kum a holy place, attracting tens of thousands of pilgrims
every year, although, unlike pilgrimages to Meshed and Kerbela, Kum
confers no lifelong designation on those by whom it exists. Its
estimated population is 10,000 souls, and at times this number is
nearly doubled. Pilgrimage consists in a visit to the tomb of Fatima,
paying a fee, and in some cases adding a votive offering. Vows of
abstinence from some special sin are frequently made at the shrine
and are carefully registered.
The dead, however, who are annually brought in thousands to be buried
in the sacred soil which surrounds the shrine, are the great source of
the wealth of Kum. These corpses travel, as to Kerbela, on mules, four
being lashed on one animal occasionally, some fresh, some decomposing,
others only bags of exhumed bones. The graves occupy an enormous area,
of which the shrine is the centre. The kings of the Kajar dynasty,
members of royal families, and 450 saints are actually buried within
the precincts of the shrine. The price of interments varies with the
proximity to the dust of Fatima from six _krans_ to one hundred
_tumans_. The population may be said to be a population of
undertakers. Death meets one everywhere. The Ab-i-Khonsar, which
supplies the drinking water, percolates through "dead men's bones and
all uncleanness." Vestments for the dead are found in the bazars.
Biers full and empty traverse the streets in numbers. Stone-cutting
for gravestones is a most lucrative business. The _charvadars_ of Kum
prosper on caravans of the dead. There is a legion of gravediggers.
Kum is a gruesome city, a vast charnel-house, yet its golden dome and
minarets brighten the place of death.
The dome of Fatima is covered with sheets of copper plated with gold
an eighth of an inch in thickness, and the ornament at the top of the
dome, which is of pure gold, is said to weigh 140 lbs. The slender
minarets which front this _imamzada_ are covered with a mosaic of
highly-glazed tiles of exquisite tints, in which an azure blue, a
canary yellow, and an iridescent green predominate, and over all there
is a sheen of a golden hue. The shrine is inaccessible to Christians.
I asked a Persian doctor if I might look in for one moment at the
threshold of the outer court, and he replied in French, "Are you then
weary of life?"[22]
My Indian servant, an educated man on whose faithful though meagre
descriptions I can rely, visited the shrine and describes the dome as
enriched with arabesques in mosaic and as hung with _ex votos_,
consisting chiefly of strips of silk and cotton. The tomb itself, he
says, is covered with a wooden ark, with certain sacred sentences cut
upon it, and this is covered by a large brown shawl. Round this ark,
which is under the dome, Kerman, Kashmir, and Indian shawls are laid
down as carpets. This open space is surrounded with steel railings
inlaid with gold after the fashion of the _niello_ work of Japan, and
the whole is enclosed with a solid silver fence, the rails of which
are "as thick as two thumbs, and as high as a tall man's head." This
_imamzada_ itself is regarded as of great antiquity.
Two Persian kings, who reigned in the latter part of the seventeenth
century, are buried near the beautiful minarets, which are supposed to
be of the same date. There are many mosques and minarets in Kum,
besides a quantity of conical _imamzadas_, the cones of which have
formerly been covered with glazed blue tiles of a turquoise tint, some
of which still remain. It was taken by the Afghans in 1772, and though
partially rebuilt is very ruinous. It has a mud wall, disintegrating
from neglect, surrounded occasionally by a ditch, and at other times
by foul and stagnant ponds. The ruinousness of Kum can scarcely be
exaggerated.
The bazars are large and very busy, and are considerably more
picturesque than those of Kirmanshah. The town lives by pilgrims and
corpses, and the wares displayed to attract the former are more
attractive than usual. There are nearly 450 shops, of which
forty-three sell Manchester goods almost exclusively. Coarse china,
and pottery often of graceful shapes with a sky-blue glaze, and
water-coolers are among the industries of this city, which also makes
shoes, and tans leather with pomegranate bark.
The Ab-i-Khonsar is now full and rapid, but is a mere thread in
summer. The nine-arched bridge, with its infamously paved roadway
eighteen feet wide, is an interesting object from all points of view,
for while its central arch has a span of forty-five feet, the others
have only spans of twenty. The gateway beyond the bridge is tawdrily
ornamented with blue and green glazed tiles. After seeing several of
the cities of Persia, I am quite inclined to give Kum the palm for
interest and beauty of aspect, when seen from any distant point of
view.
That it is a "holy" city, and that a pilgrimage to its shrine is
supposed to atone for sin, are its great interests. Its population is
composed in large proportion of _mollahs_ and _Seyyids_, or
descendants of Mohammed, and as a whole is devoted to the reigning
Shiah creed. It has a theological college of much repute, established
by Fath' Ali Shah, which now has 100 students. The women are said to
be very devout, and crowd the mosques on Friday evenings, when their
devotions are led by an _imam_. The men are fanatically religious,
though the fanaticism is somewhat modified. No wine may be sold in
Kum, and no Jew or Armenian is allowed to keep a shop.
Kum, being a trading city, manufactures a certain amount of public
opinion in its business circles, which differs not very considerably
from that which prevails at Kirmanshah. The traders accept it as a
foregone conclusion that Russia will occupy Persia as far as Isfahan
on the death of the present Shah, and regard such a destiny as
"fate." If only their religion is not interfered with, it matters
little, they say, whether they pay their taxes to the Shah or the
Czar. To judge from their speech, Islam is everything to them, and
their country very little, and the strong bond of the faith which
rules life and thought from the Pillars of Hercules to the Chinese
frontier far outweighs the paltry considerations of patriotism. But my
impression is that all Orientals prefer the tyrannies and exactions,
and the swiftness of injustice or justice of men of their own creed
and race to good government on the part of unintelligible aliens, and
that though Persians seem pretty comfortable in the prospect of a
double occupation of Persia, its actual accomplishment might strike
out a flash of patriotism.
Probably this ruinous, thinly-peopled country, with little water and
less fuel, and only two roads which deserve the name, has
possibilities of resurrection under greatly changed circumstances. Of
the two occupations which are regarded as certain, I think that most
men, at least in Central and Southern Persia, would prefer an English
occupation, but every one says, "England talks and does not act," and
that "Russia will pour 100,000 troops into Persia while England is
talking in London."
I. L. B.
FOOTNOTE:
[22] I spent two days at Kum five weeks later, and saw the whole of it
in disguise, and in order to attain some continuity of description I
put my two letters together.
LETTER VIII
CARAVANSERAI OF ALIABAD, _Feb. 23_.
Twelve hours and a half of hard riding have brought us here in two
days. No doctor could be obtained in Kum, and it was necessary to
bring the sick men on as quickly as possible for medical treatment. It
was bitterly cold on the last day, though the altitude is only 3400
feet, and it was a tiresome day, for I had not only to look over and
repack, but to clean the cooking utensils and other things, which had
not been touched apparently since we left Baghdad!