CHAPTER XXI_A Negro Explorer at the North Pole

ETAH TO NEW YORK--COMING OF MAIL AND REPORTERS--HOME!

At Etah we expected to meet the relief ship. Sixty tons of coal and a

small quantity of provisions had been left there during the previous

summer, to be used by us on our homeward voyage. This coal was loaded on

board and the Esquimos who desired to remain at Etah were landed. Just

at the time we were ready to sail a heavy storm of wind and snow blew

up, and it was not until six P. M. on the 20th that we left the harbor.

Farewells had been said to the Esquimos, all that had been promised them

for faithful services had been given to them, and we commenced the final

stage of our journey home.

From Etah, August 20, the ship sailed along the coast, landing Esquimos

at the different settlements, and on the 23rd of August at two A. M., we

met the Schooner _Jeanie_, of St. John, N. F., commanded by Samuel

Bartlett. The schooner was supplied with provisions and coal for the

relief of the _Roosevelt_, and was executing the plan of the Peary

Arctic Club.

There was mail aboard her and we had our first tidings of home and

friends in a twelve-month. From newspaper clippings I learned that the

British Antarctic Expedition, commanded by Sir Ernest H. Shackleton, had

reached within 111 miles of the South Pole.

The mail contained good news for all but one of us. Mr. Borup, in his

bunk above the Professor's, read his letters, and in the course of his

reading was heard to emit a deep sigh, then to utter an agonizing groan.

Prof. MacMillan, thinking that Borup had received bad news indeed,

endeavored to console him, and at the same time asked what was the bad

news, feeling sure it could be nothing less than the death of Colonel

Borup or some other close relative of his.

"What is the matter, George? Tell me."

"HARVARD BEAT YALE!"

The _Roosevelt_, accompanied by her consort, sailed south to North Star

Bay and while entering the harbor ran ashore. Late in the afternoon,

however, the rising tide floated her. While waiting for the tide, a

party of six, I among the number, went ashore and visited the Danish

Missionary settlement established there, the Esquimos acting as our

interpreters, we being unable to speak Danish and the missionaries being

unable to speak English. It was in North Star Bay that the coal and

provisions from the _Jeanie_ were transferred to the _Roosevelt_.

Aboard the _Jeanie_, there was a young Esquimo man, Mene, who for the

past twelve years had lived in New York City, but, overcome by a strong

desire to live again in his own country, had been sent north by his

friends in the States. He was almost destitute, having positively

nothing in the way of an equipment to enable him to withstand the rigors

of the country, and was no more fitted for the life he was to take up

than any boy of eighteen or twenty would be, for he was but a little boy

when he first left North Greenland. However, Commander Peary ordered

that he be given a plentiful supply of furs to keep him warm, food,

ammunition and loading outfit, traps and guns, but, I believe, he would

have gladly returned with us, for it was a wistful farewell he made, and

an Esquimo's farewell is usually very barren of pathos.

Mr. Whitney transferred his augmented equipment to the _Jeanie_,

intending to remain with her down the Labrador, for her Captain had

agreed to use every effort to help Mr. Whitney secure at least one polar

bear.

Cape York was reached on the morning of August 25, and from the two

Esquimo families, living at the extreme point of the Cape, we obtained

the mail which had been left there by Captain Adams of the Dundee

Whaling Fleet _Morning Star_. Our letters, although they bore no more

recent a date than that of March 23, 1909, were eagerly read.

At Cape York we landed the last of the Esquimos. The decks were now

cleared. The boats were securely lashed in their davits, and nine A. M.,

August 26, in a gale of wind, the _Roosevelt_ put out to sea,

homeward-bound, but not yet out of danger, for the gale increased so

considerably that the _Roosevelt_ was forced to lay to under reefed

foresail, in the lee of the middle pack, until the 29th, when the storm

subsided and the ship got under way again.

On September 4 the Labrador was sighted. Under full steam we passed the

Farmyard, a group of small islands which lie off the coast.

We arrived at Turnavik at seven-thirty P. M. Once again we saw signs of

civilization. The men and women appeared in costumes of the Twentieth

Century instead of the fur garments of the Esquimos. Here we loaded

nineteen tons of coal. Here we feasted on fresh codfish, fresh

vegetables, and other appetizing foods to which our palates had long

been strangers.

You know the rest, for from Turnavik to Indian Harbor was only a few

hours' sailing.

At Indian Harbor was located the wireless telegraph station from where

Commander Peary flashed to the civilized world his laconic message,

"Stars and Stripes nailed to the North Pole."

Within half an hour of our arrival, the British cutter _Fiona_ entered

the harbor and the officers came aboard the _Roosevelt_. Thereafter for

every hour there was continuous excitement and reception of visitors.

On September 13th the steamer _Douglas H. Thomas_, of Sydney, C. B.,

arrived, having on board two representatives of the Associated Press,

accompanied by Mr. Rood, a representative of _Harper's Magazine_.

The next day the cable-boat _Tyrian_ arrived, with seventeen newspaper

reporters, five photographers, and one stenographer. The _Tyrian_

anchored outside the harbor and in five life-boats the party was brought

aboard the _Roosevelt_. As they rowed they cheered, and when they

sighted Commander Peary three ringing cheers and a tiger were given. The

newspaper men requested an interview with the Commander. He granted

their request, at the same time suggesting that they accompany him

ashore to a fish-loft at the end of the pier, where there would be more

room than aboard the ship. Accompanied by the members of the expedition,

the Commander and the reporters left the ship. Arriving at the loft

Commander Peary sat on some fishnets at the rear end of the loft, some

of the reporters sat on barrels and nets, others squatted on the floor.

They formed a semi-circle around him and eagerly listened to the first

telling of his stirring story.

Before leaving Battle Harbor, we received a visit from the great

missionary, Dr. Grenfell, the effect of whose presence was almost like a

benediction.

On the morning of the 18th we left Battle Harbor accompanied by the tug

_Douglas H. Thomas_, amidst the salutes of the many vessels and boats in

the harbor and the cannon on the hill.

Through the Straits of Belle Isle we steamed, with a fair wind and a

choppy sea. In the meantime I was busily engaged in making a strip to

sew upon a large American flag. This was a broad white bar which was to

extend from the upper right to the lower left corner of the flag, with

the words "North Pole" sewed on it.

About six A. M. on the 21st, a large white, steam-yacht was seen

approaching, flying an American flag from her foremast and the English

flag from the mizzenmast. We were close enough to her to distinguish

Mrs. Peary and the children on board. A boat was quickly lowered from

the yacht and the Peary family was soon united aboard the _Roosevelt_.

All kinds of sailing craft now met the _Roosevelt_ and by them she was

escorted into the harbor of Sydney, C. B. Whistles were blown, thousands

of people lined the shores of the harbor, cheering enthusiastically and

waving flags, and as the _Roosevelt_ was moored alongside the pier, a

delegation of school-girls met the Commander, made an address, and

presented him with a magnificent bouquet. The streets were gorgeously

decorated and a holiday had been declared. A ripe, royal welcome was

accorded the _Roosevelt_ and the members of the expedition. Visitors

boarded the ship and looted successfully for souvenirs.

It was at Sydney that the expedition commenced to disband. Commander

Peary and his family returned to the United States via railroad-train.

The _Roosevelt_ left Sydney on September 22 for New York City. A stop

was made at Eagle Island, in Casco Bay, off the coast of Maine, where is

located the summer home of Commander Peary, and here we landed most of

his paraphernalia, some sledges and dogs. From Eagle Island we steamed

direct to Sandy Hook, reaching there at noon on October 2. The next day

the _Roosevelt_ took her place with the replica of those two historic

ships, the _Half Moon_ and the _Clermont_, in the lead of the great

naval parade.

And now my story is ended; it is a tale that is told. "Now is Othello's

occupation gone."

I long to see them all again! the brave, cheery companions of the trail

of the North. I long to see again the lithe figure of my Commander! and

to hear again his clear, ringing voice urging and encouraging me onward,

with his "Well done, my boy." I want to be with the party when they

reach the untrod shores of Crocker Land; I yearn to be with those who

reach the South Pole, the lure of the Arctic is tugging at my heart, to

me the trail is calling!

"The Old Trail!

The Trail that is always New!"

APPENDIX I

NOTES ON THE ESQUIMOS

The origin of the Esquimos is not known to a certainty. In color they

are brown, their hair is heavy, straight, coarse, and black. In

appearance they are short, fat, and well-developed; and they bear a

strong resemblance to the Mongolian race.

Among the men of this tribe, quarrels and fights very rarely occur; but

it is a very noticeable fact that while the men of the tribe do not make

war on each other, the man of the family will, at the least provocation

on the part of his better-half, without hesitation apply brute force to

show his authority.

The tribe of these, the North Greenland Esquimos, numbers two hundred

and eighteen.

Great interest was shown by the men when working implements, such as we

used on board ship, were shown them. Eagerly they listened while the

uses of many of these tools were explained to them. The women also

showed great interest in any article that was foreign to them. They have

a special liking for fancy beads of the smaller variety.

The Esquimos show a great capacity for imitation. They have also a

marked sense of humor.

An Esquimo's sense of imitation is so keen that it is only necessary for

him to observe a sledge-maker at work but once, when the same type of

sledge will be reproduced in a very short time. On my last trip north, I

noticed that the shirts worn by the Esquimos were similar in style and

cut to our own. In 1906, the style had been entirely different.

The Esquimos show no desire to acquire the English language. With the

exception of Kudlooktoo and Inighito, none of the tribe could speak

English intelligently. The Esquimos' vocabulary is a complication of

prefixes and suffixes, and many words in his language are very hard to

pronounce.

The _tupiks_ (tents) are made of sealskin, and are used in summer. The

igloos are built of snow, and are used in winter. A few igloos built of

bowlders can be seen. The workmanship of this latter type of igloos is

necessarily crude, for the bowlders are used in the rough state. On

entering the _tuscoonah_ (entrance), a bed-platform of stones five feet

long, and six feet wide, confronts one. On each side of this platform

are seen smaller platforms, each holding a _koodlah_ (fire-pot).

This _koodlah_ is made of a stone so soft that before it comes in

contact with fire it can easily be cut with a knife. The name given by

the Esquimos to it is _okeyoah_. Cooking utensils are first formed in

the desired shape, then heat is applied, as a result of which the stone

quickly hardens. The method of cooking as employed by the Esquimos is to

suspend the _kooleesoo_ (cooking-pot) over the _koodlah_ (fire-pot). The

_koodlah_ is the only means by which light can be secured in an Esquimo

igloo. As fuel, the blubber of the narwhal is used.

The clothing of the male Esquimo consists of a _kooletah_ (deerskin coat

with hood attached), _nanookes_ (foxskin trousers) and _kamiks_

(sealskin boots); that of the female Esquimo, a _kopetah_ (foxskin coat

with hood attached), _nanookes_ (foxskin trousers) and hip length

_kamiks_ (sealskin boots). The shirts of the male and female Esquimo are

made from the skin of the auks, and one hundred and fifty of these

little birds are used in the manufacture of one shirt.

The largest Esquimo family known among the North Greenland tribe,

numbers six; as a rule, an Esquimo family rarely outnumbers three. An

Esquimo family is not stationary. Rarely does a family remain in one

place longer than one season, which is nine months. The principal reason

for this constant moving is the scarcity of game; for after a season of

hunting in one place, game becomes very scarce; and there is no other

alternative but for the family to move on. Transportation is by means of

sledges drawn by a team of dogs. Alcoholic drinks are not known among

this tribe; but, of late, tobacco is extensively used. Previous to 1902,

before the arrival of the Danes, tobacco was an unknown quantity.

The cleanliness of the Esquimos leaves room for much improvement.

With reference to their morals, strictly speaking they are markedly

lax. The wife of an Esquimo is held in no higher esteem than are the

goods and chattels of the household. She may at any time be loaned,

borrowed, sold, or exchanged. They have no marriage ceremony.

The amusements of the Esquimos are few. Tests of strength and endurance

occur between the men of the tribe; and visits are paid to the various

settlements, during the long winter nights; and songs and choruses are

sung, accompanied by a kind of tambourine which is made from the bladder

of a walrus or seal, and stretched across the antlers of a reindeer.

The Esquimos are a very superstitious people. In the event of a fatal

illness, the victim, just before death, is removed to a place outside

the igloo, for should death enter the igloo that dwelling would

instantly be destroyed. If the deceased be a man, he is rolled up in a

sealskin, and strips of rawhide are lashed around the body to keep the

skin intact. He is then carried to his last resting place. A low stone

structure is built around the body to protect it from the foxes. His

sledge, containing all his belongings, is placed close beside this

structure, and his dogs harnessed to his sledge are strangled, and

stretched their full length, with their forepaws extended. In the event

of the deceased being a woman, her cooking utensils are placed beside

her, and should she be the mother of a very young infant, its life is

taken. In the case of a widower, the bereaved Esquimo remains in the

igloo for three days, during which time a new suit of wearing apparel is

made, and worn by him, and all clothing made by the deceased, is, by

him, destroyed. His term of mourning now being ended, the Esquimo,

without more ado, takes unto himself a new wife. Members of the tribe

who have the same name as the deceased have to change that name until

the arrival of a new-born babe, to whom the name is given, whereby the

ban is removed. The Esquimos have no decided form of religion. When

questioned as to where the soul of the good Esquimo will go, they reply

by pointing upward; and by pointing downward, the question is answered

as to the final dwelling-place of the wicked.

The main cause of death amongst the Esquimos is from a disease the

symptoms of which are a cough, nausea, and fever, which disease quickly

causes death.

It is true that the Esquimos are of little value to the commercial

world, due probably to their isolated position; but these same unlearned

and uncivilized people have rendered valuable assistance in the

discovery of the North Pole.

APPENDIX II

LIST OF SMITH SOUND ESQUIMOS

(Males marked by an asterisk)

Ac-com-o-ding´-wah *

Ah-ding´-ah-loo

Ah-dul-ah-ko-tee´-ah *

Ah-ga-tah´

Ah-go´-tah *

Ah-kah-gee´-ah-how

A-ka-ting´-wah

Ah-li-kah-sing´-wah

Ah´-mah

Ah-mame´-ee

Ah-mo-ned´-dy

Ah-mung´-wah

Ah-nad´-doo

Ah-nah´-we

Ah-nah-wing´-wah

Ahng-een´-yah *

Ahng-een´-yah

Ahng´-ing-nah

Ahng-ma-lok´-to *

Ahng-nah´-nia

Ahng-no-ding´-wah

Ahng-o-do-blah´-o *

Ahng-o-di-gip´-so

Ahng´-od-loo *

Ah-ni-ghi´-to

Ah-ning´-wah

Ah-now´-kah *

Ah´-pel-lah *

Ah-pu-ding´-wah *

Ah-say´-oo *

Ah´-te-tah

Ah-took-sung´-wah

Ah-tung´-ee-nah

Ah-wa-ting´-wah *

Ah-wa-tok´-suah *

Ah-wee´-ah

Ah-wee-ah-good´-loo

Ah-wee-aung-o´-nah

Ah-wee´-i-ah *

Ah-we-ging´-wah *

Ah-we-shung´-wah *

Ah-wok-tun´-ee-ah

Ak-pood-ah-shah´-o *

Ak-pood´-ee-ark *

Ak-pood-e-uk´-ee

A-le´-tah *

Al´-nay-ah

Al-nay-du´-ah

Ar-ke´-o *

E-gee´-ah *

E-ging´-wah *

E-lay-ting´-wah

E-ling´-wah *

E-meen´-yah *

E-she-a´-too

E-shing´-wah

E-tood´-loo *

E-took´-ah-shoo *

E-too-shok´-swah

E´-vah-loo

E´-we

I-ah-ping´-wah *

Ig-lood-ee-ark´-swee *

Ihr´-lee *

Ik´-wah *

Ik-kile-e-oo´-shah

Il-kah-lin´-ah

Il-kli-ah´ *

In-ad-lee´-ah

In´-ah-loo

In-i-ghi´-to *

In-noo´-i-tah *

In-noo-tah´

In-u-ah-pud´-o *

In-u-ah´-o

In-yah-lung´-wah

I-on´-ah

I-o-wit´-ty *

Jacok-su´-nah *

Kah´-dah *

Kah-ko-tee´-ah

Kah-ko-tee´-ah *

Kah-shad´-doo

Kah-shoo´-be-doo *

Kai-o-ang´-wah *

Kai´-oh *

Kai-o-look´-to *

Kai-o´-tah *

Kai-we-ark´-shah *

Kai-we-ing´-wah *

Kai´-we-kah *

Kai-ung´-wah *

Kang-nah´ *

Kes-shoo´ *

Ke-shung´-wah *

Klay´-oo

Klay-ung´-wah

Klip-e-sok´-swah *

Kood´-ee-puck

Kood-loo-tin´-ah *

Kood-loo-tin´-ah * (or

Koolatoonah)

Koo-e-tig´-e-to *

Koo´-lee

Kool-oo-ting´-wah *

Koo-u-pee´

Kud´-ah-shah *

Kud´-lah *

Kud-lun´-ah *

Kud-look´-too *

Ky-u-tah *

Ma-gip´-soo

Mah-so´-nah *

Mark-sing´-wah *

Mee´-tik *

Me-gip´-soo

Mek´-kah

Me´-ne *

Merk-to-shah´ *

Mok´-sah *

Mok-sang´-wah

Mon´-nie

Micky´-shoo

My´-ah *

My-o´-tah *

Nay-dee-ing´-wah

Nel-lee´-kah

Nel-lee-ka-tee´-ah

Net´-too

New-e-king´-wah

New-hate´-e-lah´-o *

New-kah-ping´-wah *

Nip-sang´-wah *

Now-o-yat´-loe

Nup´-sah

Og´-we *

Oo-ah-oun´ *

Oo-bloo´-yah *

Oo´-mah *

Oo-que´-ah *

Oo´-tah*

Oo-tun´-iah

Oo-we´-ah-oop *

Oo-we-she-a´-too

Pan´-ik-pah *

Pee-ah-wah´-to *

Poo-ad-loo´-nah*

Poo-ad-loo´-nah *

Poob´-lah *

Pood-lung´-wah

Poo´-too

Sag´-wah

Sat´-too *

Seeg´-loo *

Seen-o-ung´-wah

See-o-dee-kah´-to

Shoo-e-king´-wah

Sim´-e-ah

Sin-ah´-ew

Sip´-soo

Sow´-nah

Suk´-kun *

Sul-ming´-wah *

Tah´-tah-rah *

Tah´-wah-nah *

Taw-ching´-wah *

Teddy-ling´-wah *

Toi-tee´-ah *

Took-e-ming´-wah

Too´-koom-ah

Tu-bing´-wah

Tung-wing´-wah

Tung´-we *

Ung´-ah *

We´-ark

We-shark´-oup-si *

Two female babies not named

Male 122

Female 96

----

Total 218

THE END

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

The illustrations have been moved out of the middle of paragraphs so as

to not interrupt the flow of reading.

Obvious punctuation errors have been repaired.

Page xiii, "ESKIMOS" changed to "ESQUIMOS". (NORTH POLE ESQUIMOS)

Page 76, "Equimos" changed to "Esquimos". (fourteen Esquimos)

One instance each of the following was retained:

fiendlike/fiend-like

forepaws/fore-paws

readjusting/re-adjusting