Aranjuez—A Warning—A Night Adventure—A Fresh
Expedition—Segovia—Abades—Factious Curas—Lopez in Prison—Rescue of Lopez.
The success which had attended our efforts in the Sagra of Toledo
speedily urged me on to a new enterprise. I now determined to direct my
course to La Mancha, and to distribute the Word amongst the villages of
that province. Lopez, who had already performed such important services
in the Sagra, had accompanied us to Madrid, and was eager to take part in
this new expedition. We determined in the first place to proceed to
Aranjuez, where we hoped to obtain some information which might prove of
utility in the further regulation of our movements; Aranjuez being but a
slight distance from the frontier of La Mancha, and the high-road into
that province passing directly through it. We accordingly sallied forth
from Madrid, selling from twenty to forty Testaments in every village
which lay in our way, until we arrived at Aranjuez, to which place we had
forwarded a large supply of books.
A lovely spot is Aranjuez, {202} though in desolation: here the Tagus
flows through a delicious valley, perhaps the most fertile in Spain; and
here upsprang, in Spain’s better days, a little city, with a small but
beautiful palace, shaded by enormous trees, where royalty delighted to
forget its cares. Here Ferdinand the Seventh spent his latter days,
surrounded by lovely _señoras_ and Andalusian bull-fighters; but, as the
German Schiller has it in one of his tragedies—
“The happy days in fair Aranjuez
Are past and gone.” {203}
When the sensual king went to his dread account, royalty deserted it, and
it soon fell into decay. Intriguing courtiers no longer crowd its halls;
its spacious circus, where Manchegan bulls once roared in rage and agony,
is now closed, and the light tinkling of guitars is no longer heard
amidst its groves and gardens.
At Aranjuez I made a sojourn of three days, during which time Antonio,
Lopez, and myself visited every house in the town. We found a vast deal
of poverty and ignorance amongst the inhabitants, and experienced some
opposition: nevertheless it pleased the Almighty to permit us to dispose
of about eighty Testaments, which were purchased entirely by the very
poor people; those in easier circumstances paying no attention to the
Word of God, but rather turning it to scoff and ridicule.
One circumstance was very gratifying and cheering to me, namely, the
ocular proof which I possessed that the books which I disposed of were
read, and with attention, by those to whom I sold them; and that many
others participated in their benefit. In the streets of Aranjuez, and
beneath the mighty cedars and gigantic elms and plantains which compose
its noble woods, I have frequently seen groups assembled listening to
individuals who, with the New Testament in their hands, were reading
aloud the comfortable words of salvation.
It is probable that, had I remained a longer period at Aranjuez, I might
have sold many more of these Divine books, but I was eager to gain La
Mancha and its sandy plains, and to conceal myself for a season amongst
its solitary villages, for I was apprehensive that a storm was gathering
around me; but when once through Ocaña, the frontier town, I knew well
that I should have nothing to fear from the Spanish authorities, as their
power ceased there, the rest of La Mancha being almost entirely in the
hands of the Carlists, and overrun by small parties of banditti, from
whom, however, I trusted that the Lord would preserve me. I therefore
departed for Ocaña, {204} distant three leagues from Aranjuez.
I started with Antonio at six in the evening, having early in the morning
sent forward Lopez with between two and three hundred Testaments. We
left the highroad, and proceeded by a shorter way through wild hills and
over very broken and precipitous ground. Being well mounted, we found
ourselves just after sunset opposite Ocaña, which stands on a steep hill.
A deep valley lay between us and the town: we descended, and came to a
small bridge, which traverses a rivulet at the bottom of the valley, at a
very small distance from a kind of suburb. We crossed the bridge, and
were passing by a deserted house on our left hand, when a man appeared
from under the porch.
What I am about to state will seem incomprehensible, but a singular
history and a singular people are connected with it: the man placed
himself before my horse so as to bar the way, and said, “_Schophon_,”
which, in the Hebrew tongue, signifies a rabbit. {205} I knew this word
to be one of the Jewish countersigns, and asked the man if he had
anything to communicate? He said, “You must not enter the town, for a
net is prepared for you. The _corregidor_ of Toledo, on whom may all
evil light, in order to give pleasure to the priests of Maria, in whose
face I spit, has ordered all the _alcaldes_ of these parts, and the
_escribanos_ and the _corchetes_ to lay hands on you wherever they may
find you, and to send you, and your books, and all that pertains to you
to Toledo. Your servant was seized this morning in the town above, as he
was selling the writings in the streets, and they are now awaiting your
arrival in the _posada_; but I knew you from the accounts of my brethren,
and I have been waiting here four hours to give you warning in order that
your horse may turn his tail to your enemies, and neigh in derision of
them. Fear nothing for your servant, for he is known to the _alcalde_,
and will be set at liberty; but do you flee, and may God attend you.”
Having said this, he hurried towards the town.
I hesitated not a moment to take his advice, knowing full well that, as
my books had been taken possession of, I could do no more in that
quarter. We turned back in the direction of Aranjuez, the horses,
notwithstanding the nature of the ground, galloping at full speed; but
our adventures were not over. Midway, and about half a league from the
village of Antigola, we saw close to us on our left hand three men on a
low bank. As far as the darkness would permit us to distinguish, they
were naked, but each bore in his hand a long gun. These were _rateros_,
or the common assassins and robbers of the roads. We halted and cried
out, “Who goes there?” They replied, “What’s that to you? pass by.”
Their drift was to fire at us from a position from which it would be
impossible to miss. We shouted, “If you do not instantly pass to the
right side of the road we will tread you down beneath the horses’ hoofs.”
They hesitated and then obeyed, for all assassins are dastards, and the
least show of resolution daunts them. As we galloped past, one cried,
with an obscene oath, “Shall we fire?” But another said, “No, no!
there’s danger.” We reached Aranjuez, where early next morning Lopez
rejoined us, and we returned to Madrid.
I am sorry to state that two hundred Testaments were seized at Ocaña,
from whence, after being sealed up, they were despatched to Toledo.
Lopez informed me, that in two hours he could have sold them all, the
demand was so great. As it was, twenty-seven were disposed of in less
than ten minutes.
“Ride on, because of the word of righteousness.” Notwithstanding the
check which we had experienced at Ocaña, we were far from being
discouraged, and forthwith prepared ourselves for another expedition. As
we returned from Aranjuez to Madrid, my eyes had frequently glanced
towards the mighty wall of mountains dividing the two Castiles, and I
said to myself, “Would it not be well to cross those hills, and commence
operations on the other side, even in Old Castile? There I am unknown,
and intelligence of my proceedings can scarcely have been transmitted
thither. Peradventure the enemy is asleep, and before he has roused
himself, I may have sown much of the precious seed amongst the villages
of the Old Castilians. To Castile, therefore, to _Castilla la Vieja_!”
Accordingly, on the day after my arrival, I despatched several cargoes of
books to various places which I proposed to visit, and sent forward Lopez
and his donkey, well laden, with directions to meet me on a particular
day beneath a particular arch of the aqueduct of Segovia. I likewise
gave him orders to engage any persons willing to co-operate with us in
the circulation of the Scriptures, and who might be likely to prove of
utility in the enterprise. A more useful assistant than Lopez in an
expedition of this kind it was impossible to have. He was not only well
acquainted with the country, but had friends, and even connexions on the
other side of the hills, in whose houses he assured me that we should at
all times find a hearty welcome. He departed in high spirits,
exclaiming, “Be of good cheer, _Don Jorge_; before we return we will have
disposed of every copy of your evangelic library. Down with the friars!
Down with superstition! _Viva Inglaterra_, _viva el Evangelio_!”
In a few days I followed with Antonio. We ascended the mountains by the
pass called Peña Cerrada, which lies about three leagues to the eastward
of that of Guadarrama. It is very unfrequented, the high road between
the two Castiles passing through Guadarrama. It has, moreover, an evil
name, being, according to common report, infested with banditti. The sun
was just setting when we reached the top of the hills, and entered a
thick and gloomy pine forest, which entirely covers the mountains on the
side of Old Castile. The descent soon became so rapid and precipitous,
that we were fain to dismount from our horses and to drive them before
us. Into the woods we plunged deeper and deeper still; night-birds soon
began to hoot and cry, and millions of crickets commenced their shrill
chirping above, below, and around us. Occasionally, amidst the trees at
a distance, we could see blazes, as if from immense fires. “They are
those of the charcoal-burners, _mon maître_,” said Antonio; “we will not
go near them, however, for they are savage people, and half bandits.
Many is the traveller whom they have robbed and murdered in these horrid
wildernesses.”
It was blackest night when we arrived at the foot of the mountains; we
were still, however, amidst woods and pine forests, which extended for
leagues in every direction. “We shall scarcely reach Segovia to-night,
_mon maître_,” said Antonio. And so indeed it proved, for we became
bewildered, and at last arrived where two roads branched off in different
directions: we took not the left-hand road, which would have conducted us
to Segovia, but turned to the right, in the direction of La Granja, where
we arrived at midnight.
We found the desolation of La Granja {208} far greater than that of
Aranjuez; both had suffered from the absence of royalty, but the former
to a degree which was truly appalling. Nine-tenths of the inhabitants
had left this place, which, until the late military revolution, had been
the favourite residence of Christina. So great is the solitude of La
Granja, that wild boars from the neighbouring forests, and especially
from the beautiful pine-covered mountain which rises like a cone directly
behind the palace, frequently find their way into the streets and
squares, and whet their tusks against the pillars of the porticos.
“Ride on, because of the word of righteousness.” After a stay of
twenty-four hours at La Granja, we proceeded to Segovia. The day had
arrived on which I had appointed to meet Lopez. I repaired to the
aqueduct, and sat down beneath the hundred and seventh arch, where I
waited the greater part of the day, but he came not, whereupon I arose
and went into the city.
At Segovia I tarried two days in the house of a friend; still I could
hear nothing of Lopez. At last, by the greatest chance in the world, I
heard from a peasant that there were men in the neighbourhood of Abades
selling books.
Abades is about three leagues distant from Segovia, and upon receiving
this intelligence, I instantly departed for the former place, with three
donkeys laden with Testaments. I reached Abades at nightfall, and found
Lopez, with two peasants whom he had engaged, in the house of the surgeon
of the place, where I also took up my residence. He had already disposed
of a considerable number of Testaments in the neighbourhood, and had that
day commenced selling at Abades itself. He had, however, been
interrupted by two of the three _curas_ of the village, who, with horrid
curses, denounced the work, threatening eternal condemnation to Lopez for
selling it, and to any person who should purchase it; whereupon Lopez,
terrified, forbore until I should arrive. The third _cura_, however,
exerted himself to the utmost to persuade the people to provide
themselves with Testaments, telling them that his brethren were
hypocrites and false guides, who, by keeping them in ignorance of the
word and will of Christ, were leading them to the abyss. Upon receiving
this information, I instantly sallied forth to the market-place, and that
same night succeeded in disposing of upwards of thirty Testaments. The
next morning the house was entered by the two factious _curas_; but upon
my rising to confront them, they retreated, and I heard no more of them,
except that they publicly cursed me in the church more than once, an
event which, as no ill resulted from it, gave me little concern.
I will not detail the events of the next week; suffice it to say that,
arranging my forces in the most advantageous way, I succeeded, by God’s
assistance, in disposing of from five to six hundred Testaments amongst
the villages from one to seven leagues’ distance from Abades. At the
expiration of that period I received information that my proceedings were
known in Segovia, in which province Abades is situated, and that an order
was about to be sent to the _alcalde_ to seize all books in my
possession. Whereupon, notwithstanding that it was late in the evening,
I decamped with all my people, and upwards of three hundred Testaments,
having a few hours previously received a fresh supply from Madrid. That
night we passed in the fields, and next morning proceeded to Labajos, a
village on the high-road from Madrid to Valladolid. In this place we
offered no books for sale, but contented ourselves with supplying the
neighbouring villages with the Word of God; we likewise sold it in the
highways.
[Picture: Segovia]
We had not been at Labajos a week, during which time we were remarkably
successful, when the Carlist chieftain, Balmaseda, {211a} at the head of
his cavalry, made his desperate inroad into the southern part of Old
Castile, dashing down like an avalanche from the pine-woods of Soria. I
was present at all the horrors which ensued,—the sack of Arrevalo, and
the forcible entry into Martin Muñoz. Amidst these terrible scenes we
continued our labours. Suddenly I lost Lopez for three days, and
suffered dreadful anxiety on his account, imagining that he had been shot
by the Carlists; at last I heard that he was in prison at Villallos,
three leagues distant. The steps which I took to rescue him will be
found detailed in a communication, which I deemed it my duty to transmit
to Lord William Hervey, who, in the absence of Sir George Villiers,
{211b} now become Earl of Clarendon, fulfilled the duties of minister at
Madrid:—
“Labajos, Province of Segovia,
“August 23rd, 1838.
“MY LORD,
“I beg leave to call your attention to the following facts. On the
21st inst. I received information that a person in my employ, of the
name of Juan Lopez, had been thrown into the prison of Villallos, in
the province of Avila, by order of the _cura_ of that place. The
crime with which he was charged was selling the New Testament. I was
at that time at Labajos, in the province of Segovia, and the division
of the factious chieftain Balmaseda was in the immediate
neighbourhood. On the 22nd, I mounted my horse and rode to
Villallos, a distance of three leagues. On my arrival there, I found
that Lopez had been removed from the prison to a private house. An
order had arrived from the _corregidor_ of Avila, commanding that the
person of Lopez should be set at liberty, and that the books which
had been found in his possession should be alone detained.
Nevertheless, in direct opposition to this order (a copy of which I
herewith transmit), the _alcalde_ of Villallos, at the instigation of
the _cura_, refused to permit the said Lopez to quit the place,
either to proceed to Avila or in any other direction. It had been
hinted to Lopez that as the factious were expected, it was intended
on their arrival to denounce him to them as a liberal, and to cause
him to be sacrificed. Taking these circumstances into consideration,
I deemed it my duty, as a Christian and a gentleman, to rescue my
unfortunate servant from such lawless hands, and in consequence,
defying opposition, I bore him off, though entirely unarmed, through
a crowd of at least one hundred peasants. On leaving the place I
shouted, ‘_Viva Isabel Segunda_.’
“As it is my belief that the _cura_ of Villallos is a person capable
of any infamy, I beg leave humbly to intreat your Lordship to cause a
copy of the above narration to be forwarded to the Spanish
Government.
“I have the honour to remain,
“My Lord,
“Your Lordship’s most obedient,
“GEORGE BORROW.
“To the Right Honourable
“LORD WILLIAM HERVEY.”
After the rescue of Lopez we proceeded in the work of distribution.
Suddenly, however, the symptoms of an approaching illness came over me,
which compelled us to return in all haste to Madrid. Arrived there, I
was attacked by a fever which confined me to my bed for several weeks;
occasional fits of delirium came over me, during one of which I imagined
myself in the market-place of Martin Muñoz, engaged in deadly struggle
with the chieftain Balmaseda.
The fever had scarcely departed, when a profound melancholy took
possession of me, which entirely disqualified me for active exertion.
Change of scene and air was recommended; I therefore returned to England.
{213}