The low bluffs of the Yellowstone River--in the days when that was a

hostile Indian country, and only the hunter who was particularly

reckless and daring ventured into it--were a favorite feeding ground for

sheep. They were reported very numerous by the first expeditions that

went up the river, and a few have been killed there within five or six

years, although the valley is given over to farming and the upper

prairie is covered with cattle. This used to be one of the greatest

sheep ranges in all the West; the wide flats of the river bottom, the

higher table lands above, and the worn bad lands between, furnishing

ideal sheep ground. The last killed there, so far as I know, were a ram

and two ewes, which were taken about forty miles below Rosebud Station,

on the river, in 1897 or 1898.

Of Wyoming, Mr. Wm. Wells writes: "I have only been up here in

northwestern Wyoming for a year, but from what I have seen, sheep are

holding their own fairly well, and may be increasing in places. In 1897,

Mr. H.D. Shelden, of Detroit, Mich., and myself were hunting sheep just

west of the headwaters of Hobacks River. There was a sort of knife-edge

ridge running about fifteen miles north and south, the summit of which

was about 2,000 feet above a bench or table-land. The ridge was well

watered, and in some places the timber ran nearly up to the top of the

ridge. On this ridge there were about 100 sheep, divided into three

bands. Each band seemed to make its home in a cup-like hollow on the

east side of the ridge, about 500 feet below the crest, but the members

of the different bands seemed to visit back and forth, as the numbers

were not always the same.

"We could take our horses up into either one of the three hollows, and

some of the sheep were so tame that we have several times been within

fifty yards in plain sight, and had the sheep pay very little attention

to us. In one instance two ewes and lambs went on ahead of us at a walk

for several hundred yards, often stopping to look back; and in another a

sheep, after looking at us, two horses and two dogs, across a canyon 200

yards wide, pawed a bed in the slide rock and lay down. In another case

I drove about thirty head of ewes and lambs to within thirty-five yards

of Mr. Shelden, and when he rose up in plain sight, they stood and

looked at him. When he saw that there was no ram there, he yelled at

them, upon which they ran off about 400 yards, and then stood and looked

at us.

"I do not think that these sheep had been hunted, until this time, for

several years. As nearly as I could tell, they ranged winter and summer

on nearly the same ground. At the top of the range, facing the east,

were overhanging ledges of rock, and under these the dung was two feet

or more deep.

"Either during the winter or early spring the sheep had been down in the

timber on the east side of the ridge, as I found the remains of several,

in the winter coat, that had been killed by cougars."

Mr. D.C. Nowlin, of Jackson, Wyo., was good enough to write me in 1898,

concerning the sheep in the general neighborhood of Jackson's Hole; that

is to say, in the ranges immediately south of the National Park, a

section not far from that just described. He says: "In certain ranges

near here sheep are comparatively plentiful, and are killed every

hunting season.

"Occasionally a scabby ram is killed. I killed one here which showed

very plainly the ravages of scab, especially around the ears, and on the

neck and shoulders. Evidently the disease is identical with that so

common among domestic sheep, and I have heard more than one creditable

account of mountain sheep mingling temporarily with domestic flocks and

thus contracting the scab. I am confident that the same parasite which

is found upon scabby domestic sheep is responsible for the disease which

affects the bighorn. It is not difficult to account for the transmission

of the disease, as western sheep-men roam with their flocks at will,

from the peach belt to timber line, regardless alike of the legal or

inherent rights of man or beast. Partly through isolation, and partly

through moral suasion by our people, no domestic sheep have invaded

Jackson's Hole."

Mr. Ira Dodge, of Cora, Wyo., in response to inquiries as to the sheep

in his section of the country, says: "Mountain sheep are, like most

other game, where you find them; but their feeding grounds are mainly

high table-lands, at the foot of, or near, high rocky peaks or

ranges. These table-lands occur at or near timber line, varying one or

two thousand feet either way. In this latitude timber line occurs at

about 11,500 feet. In all the ranges in this locality, namely, the Wind

River, Gros Ventre, and Uintah, water is found in abundance, and, as a

rule, there is plenty of timber. I think I have more often found sheep

in the timber, or below timber line, than at higher altitudes, although

sometimes I have located the finest rams far above the last scrubby

pine.

"The largest bunch of sheep that I have seen was in the fall of 1893. I

estimated the band at 75 to 100. In that bunch there were no rams, and

they remained in sight for quite a long time; so that I had a good

opportunity to estimate them.

"I do not profess to know where the majority of these sheep winter, but,

undoubtedly, a great number winter on the table-lands before mentioned,

where a rich growth of grass furnishes an abundance of feed. At this

altitude the wind blows so hard and continuously, and the snow is so

light and dry, that there would be no time during the whole winter when

the snow would lie on the ground long enough to starve sheep to death.

Several small bunches of sheep winter on the Big Gros Ventre

River. These, I think, are the same sheep that are found in summer time

on the Gros Ventre range. I have occasionally killed sheep that were

scabby, but I have no positive knowledge that this disease has killed

any number of sheep. In the fall of 1894 I discovered eleven large ram

skulls in one place, and since that time found four more near by. My

first impression was that the eleven were killed by a snowslide, as they

were at the foot of one of those places where snowslides occur, but

finding the other four within a mile, and in a place where a snowslide

could not have killed them, it rather dispelled my first theory. As

mountain sheep can travel over snow drifts nearly as well as a caribou,

I do not believe that they were stranded in a snowstorm and perished,

and no hunter would have killed so great a number and left such

magnificent heads. The scab theory is about the only solution left. The

sheep are not hunted very much here, and I believe their greatest enemy

is the mountain lion.

"There is one isolated bunch of mountain sheep on the Colorado Desert,

situated in Fremont and Sweetwater counties, Wyo., which seems to be

holding its own against many range riders, meat and specimen hunters, as

well as coyotes. They are very light in color, much more so than their

cousins found higher up in the mountains, and locally they are called

ibex, or white goats. The country they live in is very similar to the

bad lands of Dakota, and I dare say that their long life on the plains

has created in them a distinct sub-species of the bighorn."

The Colorado Desert is situated in Wyoming, between the Green River on

the west, and the Red Desert on the east. The sheep are seen mostly on

the breaks on Green River. They are sometimes chased by cowboys, but I

have never known of one being caught in that way.

I am told that in some bad lands in the Red Desert, locally known as

Dobe Town, there is a herd of wild sheep, which are occasionally pursued

by range riders. Rarely one is roped.

Mr. Fred E. White, of Jackson, Wyo., advised me in 1898 of the existence

of sheep in the mountains which drain into Gros Ventre Fork, the heads

of Green River and Buffalo Fork of Snake River. Mr. White was with the

Webb party, some years ago, when they secured a number of sheep. The

same correspondent calls attention to the very large number of sheep

which in 1888, and for a few years thereafter, ranged in the high

mountains between the waters of the Yellowstone and the Stinking

Water. This is one of the countries from which sheep have been pretty

nearly exterminated by hunters and prospectors.

Within the past twenty or thirty years mountain sheep have become very

scarce in all of their old haunts in Wyoming and northern Colorado. This

does not seem to be particularly due to hunting, but the sheep seem to

be either moving away or dying out. Mr. W.H. Reed, in 1898, wrote me

from Laramie, Wyo., saying: "At present there are perhaps thirty head on

Sheep Mountain, twenty-two miles west of Laramie, Wyo.; on the west side

of Laramie Peak there are perhaps twenty head; on the east side of the

Peak twelve to fifteen head, and near the Platte Canon, at the head of

Medicine Bow River, there are fifteen. In 1894 I saw at the head of the

Green River, Hobacks River, and Gros Ventre River, between two and three

hundred mountain sheep. There are sheep scattered all through the Wind

River, and a very few in the Big Horn Mountains; but all are in small

bunches, and these widely separated. Some of the old localities where

they were very abundant in the early '70's, but now are never seen, are

Whalen Canon, Raw Hide Buttes, Hartville Mountains, thirty miles

northwest of Ft. Laramie, Elk Mountains, and the adjacent hills fifteen

miles east of Fort Steele, near old Fort Halleck. They seem to have

disappeared also from the bad lands along Green River, south of the

Union Pacific Railroad, from the Freezeout Hills, Platte Canyon, at the

mouth of Sweetwater River, from Brown's Canyon, forty miles northwest of

Rawlins, from the Seminole and Ferris Mountains, and from many other

places in the middle and northeastern part of Wyoming."

In Colorado, the mountains surrounding North Park and west to the Utah

line, had many mountain sheep twenty-five years ago, but to-day old

hunters tell me that there are only two places where one is sure to find

sheep. These are Hahn's Peak and the Rabbit Ears, two peaks at the south

end of North Park.

There were sheep in and about the Black Hills of Dakota as late as 1890,

for Mr. W.S. Phillips has kindly informed me that about June of that

year he saw three sheep on Mt. Inyan Kara. These were the only ones

actually seen during the summer, but they were frequently heard of from

cattle-men, and Mr. Phillips considers it beyond dispute that at that

time they ranged from Sundance, Inyan Kara and Bear Lodge Mountains--all

on the western and southwestern slope of the Black Hills, on and near

the Wyoming-Dakota line--on the east, westerly at least to Pumpkin

Buttes and Big Powder River, and in the edge of the bad lands of Wyoming

as far north as the Little Missouri Buttes, and south to the south fork

of the Cheyenne River, and the big bend of the north fork of the Platte,

and the head of Green River. This range is based on reports of reliable

range riders, who saw them in passing through the country. It is an

ideal sheep country--rough, varying from sage brush desert, out of which

rises an occasional pine ridge butte, to bad lands, and the mountains of

the Black Hills. There are patches of grassy, fairly good pasture

land. The country is well watered, and there are many springs hidden

under the hills which run but a short distance after they come out of

the ground and then sink. Timber occurs in patches and more or less open

groves on the pine ridges that run sometimes for several miles in a

continuous hill, at a height of from one to three or four hundred feet

above the plain. The region is a cattle country.

In 1893 and '97 fresh heads and hides were seen at Pocotello, Idaho, and

at one or two other points west of there in the lava country along Snake

River and the Oregon short line. The sheep were probably killed in the

spurs and broken ranges that run out on the west flank of the main chain

of the Rockies toward the Blue Mountains of Oregon.

Mr. William Wells, of Wells, Wyo., has very kindly given me the

following notes as to Colorado, where he formerly resided. He says:

"During 1890, '91, '92, there were a good many mountain sheep on the

headwaters of Roan Creek, a tributary of Grand River, in Colorado. Roan

Creek heads on the south side of the Roan or Book Plateau, and flows

south into Grand River. The elevation of Grand River at this point is

about 5,000 feet, and the elevation of the Book Plateau is about 8,500

feet. The side of the plateau toward Grand River consists of cliffs from

2,000 to 3,000 feet high, and as the branches of Roan Creek head on top

of the plateau they form very deep box canyons as they cut their way to

the river. It is on these cliffs and in these canyons that the sheep were

found. I understand that there are some there yet, but I have not been

in that section since 1892. On all the cliffs are benches or terraces--a

cliff of 300 to 1,000 feet at the top, then a bench, then another cliff,

and so on to the bottom. The benches are well grassed, and there is more

or less timber, quaking asp, spruce and juniper in the side

canyons. There are plenty of springs along the cliffs, and as they face

the south, the winter range is good. The top of the plateau is an open

park country, and at that time was, and is yet, for that matter, full of

deer and bear, but I never saw any sheep on top, though they sometimes

come out on the upper edge of the cliffs.

"There were, and I suppose are still, small bands of sheep on Dome and

Shingle Peaks, on the headwaters of White River, in northwestern

Colorado.

"There was also a band of sheep on the Williams River Mountains which

lie between Bear River and the Williams Fork of Bear River, in

northwestern Colorado, but these sheep were killed off about 1894 or

'95. The Williams River Mountains are a low range of grass-covered

hills, well watered, with broken country and cliffs on the south side,

toward the Williams Fork.

"It is also reported that there is a band of sheep in Grand River Canyon,

just above Glenwood Springs, Colo., and sheep are reported to be on the

increase in the Gunnison country, and other parts of southwestern

Colorado, as that State protects sheep."

Mr. W.J. Dixon, of Cimarron, Kan., wrote me in May, 1898, as follows:

"In 1874 or '75 I killed sheep at the head of the north fork of the

Purgatoire, or Rio de las Animas, on the divide between the Spanish

Peaks and main range of the Rocky Mountains, southwest by west from the

South Peak. I was there also in November, 1892, and saw three or four

head at a distance, but did not go after them. They must be on the

increase there."

In 1899 there was a bunch of sheep in east central Utah, about thirty

miles north of the station of Green River, on the Rio Grande Western

Railroad, and on the west side of the Green River. These were on the

ranch of ex-member of Congress, Hon. Clarence E. Allen, and were

carefully protected by the owners of the property. The ranch hands are

instructed not to kill or molest them in any manner, and to do nothing

that will alarm them. They come down occasionally to the lower ground,

attracted by the lucerne, as are also the deer, which sometimes prove

quite a nuisance by getting into the growing crops. The sheep spend most

of their time in the cliffs not far away. When first seen, about 1894,

there were but five sheep in the bunch, while in 1899 twenty were

counted. This information was very kindly sent to me by

Mr. C.H. Blanchard, at one time of Silver City, but more recently of

Salt Lake City, in Utah.

Mr. W.H. Holabird, formerly of Eddy, New Mexico, but more recently of

Los Angeles, Cal., tells me that during the fall of 1896 a number of

splendid heads were brought into Eddy, N.M. He is told that mountain

sheep are quite numerous in the rugged ridge of the Guadeloupe

Mountains, bands of from five to twelve being frequently seen. As to

California, he reports: "We have a good many mountain sheep on the

isolated mountain spurs putting out from the main ranges into the

desert. I frequently hear of bands of two to ten, but our laws protect

them at all seasons."

My friend, Mr. Herbert Brown, of Yuma, Ariz., so well known as an

enthusiastic and painstaking observer of natural history matters, has

kindly written me something as to the mountain sheep in that

Territory. He says: "Under the game law of Arizona the killing of

mountain sheep is absolutely prohibited, but that does not prevent their

being killed. It does, however, prevent their being killed for the

market, and it was killing for the market that threatened their

extermination. So far as I have ever been able to learn, these sheep

range, or did range, on all the mountains to the north, west, and south

of Tucson, within a hundred miles or so. I know of them in the

Superstition Mountains, about a hundred miles to the north; in the

Quijotoas Mountains, a like distance to the southwest, and in the

mountains intermediate; I have no positive proof of their existence in

the Santa Ritas, but about twenty-three years ago I saw a pair of old

and weather-beaten horns that had been picked up in that range near Agua

Caliente, that is about ten or twelve miles southwest of

Mt. Wrightson. I never saw any sheep in the range, nor do I know of any

one more fortunate than myself in that respect. In days gone by the

Santa Catalinas, the Rincon, and the Tucson Mountains were the most

prolific hunting grounds for the market men. So far as I can remember,

the first brought to the market here were subsequent to the coming of

the railroad in 1880. They were killed in the Tucson Mountains by the

'Logan boys,' well known hunters at that time. Later the Logans made a

strike in the mines and disappeared. For several years no sheep were

seen, but finally Mexicans began killing them in the Santa Catalinas,

and occasionally six or eight would be hung up in the market at the same

time. Later the Papago Indians in the southwest began killing them for

the market. These people, as did also the Mexicans, killed big and

little, and the animals, never abundant, were threatened with

extermination. Those killed by the Logans came from the Tucson

Mountains; those killed by the Mexicans from the Santa Catalinas, and

those killed by the Indians probably from the Baboquivari or Comobabi

ranges. I questioned the hunters repeatedly, but they never gave me a

satisfactory answer.

"Although I never saw the sheep, I have repeatedly seen evidence of them

in both the ranges named. Inasmuch as I have not seen one in several

years past, I feel very confident that there are not many to see. Last

year I learned of a large ram being killed in the Superstition Mountains

which was alone when killed. About three years ago the head of a big ram

was brought to this city. It is said to have weighed seventy pounds. I

did not see it, nor did I learn where it came from.

"The Superstition and the Santa Catalinas are the very essence of

ruggedness, but notwithstanding this I am constrained to believe that

the days of big game are nearly numbered in Arizona. The reasons for

this are readily apparent. The mountain ranges are more or less

mineralized. To this there is hardly an exception. There is no place so

wild and forbidding that the prospector will not enter it. If 'pay rock'

or 'pay dirt' is struck, then good-by solitude and big game. A second

cause is to be found in the cattle industry, which, as a rule, is very

profitable. One of the most successful cattle growers in the country

once told me that cattle in Arizona would breed up to 95 per cent.

These breeders during the dry season leave the mesas and climb to the

top of the very highest mountains, and, of course, the more cattle the

less game. A year ago I was in the Harshaw Mountains, and was told by a

young man named Sorrell that a bunch of wild cattle occupied a certain

peak, and that on a certain occasion he had seen a big mountain sheep

with the cattle.

"So far as I know, I never saw or heard of a case of scab among wild

sheep."

Later, but still in 1898, Mr. Brown wrote me that, according to

Mr. J. D. Thompson, mountain sheep are common in all the mountains

bordering the Gulf Coast in Sonora, and also in Lower California.

Mr. Thompson is operating mines in the Sierra Pinto, Sonora, 180 miles

southeast of Yuma. This range is about six miles long and 800 feet

high. The mule deer and sheep are killed according to necessity. Indians

do the killing. A mule deer is worth two dollars, Mexican money, and a

sheep but little more, although the former are much more abundant than

the latter. The last sheep taken to camp was traded off for a pair of

overalls.

"It is reasonably certain that with sheep in southern Arizona and

southern Sonora, every mountain range between the two must be tenanted

by this species.

"During the August feast days the Papago Indians living about Quitovac

generally have a Montezuma celebration, in which live deer are employed.

For this purpose several are caught. Subsequently they are killed and

eaten. They are taken by relays of men or horses, sometimes both."

In northern Arizona sheep are still common. Dr. C. Hart Merriam in his

report on the San Francisco Mountain--"North American Fauna"

III.--recorded the San Francisco herd, of which he saw eight or nine

together. He also recorded their presence at the Grand Canyon, where they

are still fairly common, though very wary.

Mr. A.W. Anthony, of California, wrote me in 1898 concerning sheep in

southern California, and I am glad to quote his letter almost in

full. He says: "In San Diego county, Cal., there are a few sheep along

the western edge of the Colorado Desert. So far as I know, these are all

in the first ranges above the desert, and do not extend above the piñon

belt. These barren hills are dry, broken and steep, with very little

water, and except for the stock men, who have herds grazing on the

western edge of the desert, they are very seldom disturbed. Along the

line of the old Carriso Creek stage road from Yuma to Los Angeles,

between Warner Pass and the mouth of Carriso Creek--where it reaches the

desert--are several water holes where sheep have, up to 1897, at least,

regularly watered during the dry season.

"I have known of several being killed by stock men there during the past

few years, by watching for them about the water. As a rule, the country

is too dry, open and rough to make still-hunting successful. At the same

time I think they would have been killed off long since except for

reinforcements received from across the line in Lower California.

"Up to 1894 a few sheep were found as far up the range as Mt. Baldy, Los

Angeles county, and they may still occur there, but I cannot be sure.

One or two of the larger ranges west of the Colorado River, in the

desert, were, two years ago, and probably are still, blessed with a few

sheep. I have known of two or three parties that went after them, but

they would not tell where they went; not far north of the Southern

Pacific Railroad, I think.

"In Lower California sheep are still common in many places, but are

largely confined to the east side of the peninsula, mostly being found

in the low hills between the gulf and the main divide. A few reach the

top of San Pedro Martir--12,000 feet--but I learn from the Indians they

never were common in the higher ranges. The piñon belt and below seem to

be their habitat, and in very dry, barren ranges. I have known a few to

reach the Pacific, between 28 deg. n. lat. and 30 deg. n. lat.; but

they never seem at home on the western side of the peninsula.

"Owing to their habitat, few whites care to bother them--it costs too

much in cash, and more in bodily discomfort; but the natives kill them

at all seasons; not enough, however, to threaten extermination unless

they receive help from the north.

"I have no knowledge of any scab, or other disease, affecting the sheep,

either in southern or Lower California."

For northern California, records of sheep are few. Dr. Merriam, Chief of

the Biological Survey, tells me that sheep formerly occurred on the

Siskiyou range, on the boundary between California and Oregon, and that

some years ago he saw an old ram that had been killed on these

mountains. On Mt. Shasta they were very common until recently. In the

High Sierra, south of the latitude of Mono Lake, a few still occur, but

there are extremely rare.

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