CHAPTER X.

Before quitting a phase of my life, which many, if not most, old men are

wont to look back on as their happiest time, but which I, by so

considering, should grievously wrong many a subsequent period, I may

string together at random a few notes from my diaries, which may seem to

contribute some touch or trait to the story of the way we lived sixty

years since.

The way men lived in Germany at that date, I find given in a letter from

the Baron de Zandt to my mother, as follows: “In many parts of Germany,”

says the Baron, who, as I very well remember, understood what good

living was, “a man may be boarded and lodged comfortably for £26 a year.

If he prefers economy to comfort, it might be done for considerably

less.”

From the journal of a walking tour in South Devon, performed in the year

1831, I take the well-nigh incredible statement, that no tobacconist _ex

professo_ could at that date be found in Plymouth! “I succeeded after

some research,” says the diary, “in getting some tolerable tobacco from

a chymist.” Doubtless plenty of tobacco was to be had, _if_ I had known

where to look for it--at chandlers’ shops and taverns. But I have no

doubt that the statement in the fifty-five-year-old “text” is correct.

No tobacconist’s shop was then to be found in Plymouth.

In July, 1832, I was walking in Wales, and reaching Caermarthen in

assize time (where Judge Alderson, as is recorded, was trying prisoners

on the Crown side), found much difficulty in getting any accommodation

for bed or even board. But at length a commercial gentleman at the Ivy

Bush, the principal inn, “entering into conversation in a patronising

sort of way, told me it was a _h_error to suppose that commercial men

were _h_adverse to gentlemen making use of the commercial room provided

they _was_ gentlemen. For himself, he was always most ’appy to associate

with gentlemen;” and, in fine, invited me to join their table, which I

did at two o’clock. One of the assembled party--there were some fifteen

or sixteen of them--was formally named president for the day, and took

the head of the table. We were excruciatingly genteel. I, in my

ignorance, asked for beer, but was with much politeness informed that

malt liquor was not used at their table. Every man was expected to

consume a pint of most atrocious sherry at 5_s._ 6_d._, which I suppose

compensated the landlord for the wonderfully small price of the dinner.

A dinner of three courses, consisting of salmon, chicken, venison, three

or four made dishes, and pastry, was put before us. I was surprised at

the gorgeousness of this feast, and began to have alarming anticipations

of the _amari aliquid_ which must follow. But I was assured that this

was the ordinary every-day fare of the “commercial gentlemen,” and the

bill for the repast was two shillings! My diary records that the

conversation at table in no wise savoured of trade in any of its

branches. Shakespeare and Walter Scott were descanted on in turn, and

one dapper little man, who travelled in cutlery, averred that Sir Walter

had on one occasion been exceedingly polite to him, and he should always

say to the end of his life that he was a gentleman.

At Dolgelly I was struck by the practice prevailing there of tolling,

after the ringing of the curfew, a number of strokes on the biggest bell

equal to the number of the days which had elapsed of the current month.

I wonder whether they do so still?

I went out of my way, I find, in the course of the same journey, in

order to go from Liverpool to Manchester by the new railway, which to

me, as to thousands of others, was an object of infinite curiosity and

interest. My diary notes that there were fifteen carriages attached to

the engine, each carrying twelve passengers. Two of these were

first-class, and the fare for the journey to Manchester in them was

5_s._; in the others the fare was 3_s._ 6_d._ The train I was to travel

by was called a second-class train. The first-class trains carried no

second-class passengers, and did the journey of fifty-two miles in one

hour and a half. They stopped only once on the way. The second-class

trains stopped frequently, and were two hours on the road. I estimated

the speed at something over twenty-five miles an hour, and remark in my

diary that “that immense rapidity was manifested to the senses only by

looking at the objects passed.”

At Manchester I find myself to have been much scandalised at a scene

which I witnessed in the Collegiate Church there. There were seventeen

couples to be married, and they were all married at once, the only part

of the service individually performed being the “I take thee,” &c. &c. I

perfectly well remember at this distance of time the bustling about of

the clerk among them to insure that every male should be coupled to the

right female. “After this wholesale coupling had been completed,” says

my diary, “the daily service was begun, and was performed in a more

indecent and slovenly way than I ever before witnessed, which is saying

a great deal! While the Psalms were being sung the priest, as having

nothing to do, walked out, and returned just in time to read the

Lessons.” Such were the manners and habits of 1832.

A few weeks later I find an entry to the effect that, “while my father

was reading _Grandison_ to us in the evening I got M. Hervieu (the

artist who did the illustrations for my mother’s _Domestic Manners of

the Americans_ and other books, and who chanced to be passing the

evening with us _en famille_) to draw me a caricature illustrating the

following passage of Beattie’s _Minstrel_:--

“And yet young Edwin was no vulgar boy;

Deep thought would often fix his youthful eye.

Dainties he heeded not, nor gaud, nor toy,

Save _one short pipe_!”

I possess this remarkable work of art to the present day!

At another page I stumble on the record of a conversation with the

sexton of Leatherhead, whom, in one of my rambles, I found digging a

grave in the churchyard there. Three shillings, I learned, was the price

of a grave of the ordinary depth of five feet. Those, however, who could

afford the luxury of lying deeper paid a shilling a foot more.

One more note from the diaries of those days I will venture to give,

because it may be taken as a paraleipomenon to that _Autobiography_ of

my brother, which the world was kindly pleased to take some interest

in:--

“Went to town yesterday [from Harrow], and among other commissions

bought a couple of single-sticks with strong basket handles. Anthony

much approves of them, and this morning we had a bout with them. One of

the sticks bought yesterday soon broke, and we supplied its place by a

tremendous blackthorn. Neither of us left the arena without a fair share

of rather severe wales; but Anthony is far my superior in quickness and

adroitness, and perhaps in bearing pain too. I fear he is likely to

remain so in the first two, but in the third I am determined he shall

not.”

Thus says the yellow fifty-seven-year-old page!

And I have literally thousands of such pages; voluminous records--among

other matters--of walking excursions in the home counties, in Devon, in

Wales, in Gloucestershire, and the banks of the Severn and Wye, not a

page of which fails to bear its testimony to the curiously changed

circumstances under which a pedestrian would now undertake such

wanderings. I find among other jottings--deemed _memorabilia_ at the

time--that I carried a knapsack weighing twenty-eight pounds over the

top of Plinlimmon, because I considered seven and sixpence demanded by

the guide for accompanying me, excessive.

But _ohe! jam satis_. I will inflict no more upon the patient

reader--the impatient will have skipped much of what I have already

given him.

Alas! the _amari aliquid_ of these old records is the unblushing

chronicle of _intentions_, enough to have paved all Acheron with a

durability unachieved by any highway board! The only comfort for

diarists so imprudently candid as to record such aspirations, and so yet

more imprudent as to read them half a century after the penning of them,

is the consideration that _au bout des comptes_ the question is, not

what one has done, but what one has become. If one could flatter oneself

that one has the _mens sana in corpore sano_ at seventy-seven years,

one might accept and condone the past without too much regret; and at

all events it is something to have undeniably brought the latter to its

seventy-eighth year.

What I Remember, Volume 1 · 第 10 / 19 章