Journey inland from Port Moresby--Evening with a chief--Savage life--Tree
houses--Uakinumu--Inland natives--Native habits of eating--Mountain
scenery--Upland natives--Return to Uakinumu--Drinking out of a
bamboo--Native conversation--Keninumu--Munikahila--Native
spiritists--Habits and influence of these
men--Meroka--Kerianumu--Makapili--The Laroki Falls--Epakari--Return to
Port Moresby.
In 1879, I made a long journey inland, in a north-easterly direction from
Port Moresby. I visited many native villages, and explored the
mountainous country along the course of and between the Goldie and Laroki
rivers.
The reader will get some notion of the country, the natives, and their
customs, from the following extracts taken from a journal kept at that
time.
_July_ 15_th_, 1879.--We left Port Moresby at half-past seven, reaching
the Laroki at half-past eleven. We crossed in shallow water near to
where the Goldie joins the Laroki. We had eighteen carriers, four of
them women, who carried more than the men. After resting awhile at the
Laroki we went on about three miles farther to Moumiri, the first village
of the Koiari tribe of Port Moresby. On entering the village we took
them by surprise; the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears.
We called out, _Mai_, _mai_, _mai_ (Peace, peace, peace), and, on
recognizing who we were, they came running towards us with both hands
outspread. We met the chief's wife, and she led us up the hill, where
there are a number of good native houses. It was shouted on before us
that foreigners and Ruatoka had arrived, and down the hill the youths
came rushing, shaking hands, shouting, and slapping themselves. We were
received by the chief under the house, and there we had to sit for a very
long time until his wife returned from the plantation with sugar-cane.
Our carriers chewed large quantities of sugar-cane, got a few betel-nuts,
and then set off on the return journey. We are now thirteen miles north-
east from Port Moresby, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer 84
degrees in shade. The people are small, women not good-looking, and
children ill-shaped. The Goldie runs at the base of the hill; the
natives get water from it. The houses are very similar to those inland
from Kerepunu. On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so that when the
door is shut or opened they make a noise. Should the occupants of the
house be asleep, and their foes come, they would, on the door being
opened, be woke up. Spears and clubs are all handy.
16_th_.--Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at half-past ten for
Munikahila, where we hope to get carriers, our Moumiri friends objecting
to go. The first village we came to we found deserted, and in one old
house the skeleton of a child. We crossed to another village, and coming
suddenly upon the few who were at home, they were terribly frightened;
one woman danced up and down the village, and shouted to the people in
the neighbouring villages to come at once. We are 1170 feet above sea-
level, at a village called Keninuma. The people soon gathered round,
some with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed. Feeling cold after
the climb, I signed to be allowed to go into a house to change clothing,
and was given to understand that a very good place to do it was on the
verandah in front of the house, and before the assembly. When the chief,
Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were assigned a small house; a man during the
evening came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane and calling out
for a tomahawk. A tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane would be throwing
money to the winds. We are E.N.E. from Moumiri.
17_th_.--Rather cold during the night. Five natives who slept in the
house with us kept a fire burning all night. A child sitting in front of
the house has a taro in one hand, a bamboo pipe in the other; takes a
bite of the taro, then a draw from the charged pipe, and the mixture
seems to be thoroughly relished. Feeling sure we should get carriers
here, we took no supplies with us, so are now eating the best we can get,
doing Banting to perfection. A number of men have been sitting all day
about the house making spears, the jawbone and tusks of the wild boar
being the only implements.
18_th_.--Thermometer at sunrise 70 degrees. A number of ugly painted and
feathered fellows came in this morning on their way to the village in the
valley. The people here are much darker than the coast tribes, and their
hair is woolly. Joe said on arriving here, "Hallo, these people same as
mine, hair just the same." They are scarcely so dark. A few are bright-
coloured, but all have the woolly hair. A goodly number suffer from
sores on feet and other parts of body. Their one want is a tomahawk. The
people seem to live in families. We had a good supper of taro and
cockatoo, the latter rather tough.
19_th_.--The carriers have not yet arrived. In the evening a woman
shouted and yelled; all rushed to their spears, and there was great
running, snorting, and blowing at some imaginary enemy. After the chief
came in, we lay about the fire for some time; then to our blankets. I
was beginning to nod, when some women in a neighbouring house began
giggling and laughing. Our friend wakened up and began talking. I told
him to sleep; he answered, _Kuku mahuta_, (Smoke, then sleep). He had
his smoke, and then began reciting. I remember, as a youth, being told,
when I could not sleep, to repeat a psalm or paraphrase, or count one
hundred to myself, and I should soon drop off. This fellow repeated
aloud and he must have been going over the mythologic lore of his family
for very many generations, and yet he did not sleep. At last, a smoke,
beginning with a scream of _kuku_. Now, surely sleep; but no, he changed
to a low monotonous chant, so grating on the sleepy man's nervous system
that it would have driven many desperate. At last, in the morning hours,
the notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, and, finally, I
fell asleep.
The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills. Yesterday
one woman had two large kits of taro, and a child of about two years on
the top of all. Ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and one bird of paradise
to-day: the latter must be eaten with the best of all sauces--hunger. The
natives pick up heads, legs, and entrails, turn them on the fire and eat
them.
20_th_.--Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came in with great
shouting, and glad was I to see my lad and companion Maka then. Great
was the joy at the division of salt and tobacco. Before we came here the
women and children slept in the bush at night, the men in the village.
They are at enmity with the natives on the flat across the ravine, and it
seems that sometimes they get a night visit, and may lose a man. For the
last two nights the women have been in the village, but every sound heard
causes a shout. Last night, when just getting off, they came rushing up
to our house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as their enemies
were coming. "Only fire off one, and it will frighten them away." We
told them to go and sleep, and not be afraid.
The state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is truly
pitiful; to him every stranger seeks his life, and so does every other
savage. The falling of a dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig, or the
passage of a bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear.
How they relish salt! The smallest grain is picked carefully up.
Fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity. Never have I seen
salt-eating like this; only children eating sugar corresponds to it.
Here as in all other parts of New Guinea--it is not the most powerful man
who fights and kills most, but little abominable sneaks, treacherous in
the extreme. Since our arrival here we find the thermometer from 82 to
84 degrees during the day, and as low as 68 degrees, more frequently 70
degrees, during the night. By bearings we are only about twenty miles in
straight course from Port Moresby.
[Tree houses: 101.jpg]
21_st_.--The village is built on the ridge, the chief's house right on
the high end and looking east, our small house close by on the side of
the others, on each side, leaving a pathway in the centre. At the very
end of the ridge is a house on a very high tree, used as a look-out house
and a refuge for women and children in case of attack. There are quite a
number of tree houses in the various villages on the ridges seen from
here. The people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and very fine-
looking native lad, married to one of their girls and settled down
amongst them. I said to our African, "They want Maka to marry one of
their girls." Joe, I suppose, felt slighted that he too had not an
offer, and he replied, "Well, sir, in Madagascar, a very big chief was
real anxious I marry his daughter; fine-looking girl; he make me chief,
and give me plenty land; far cleaner people than them be."
I find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east end of
New Guinea--nose and stomach pointed to. They speak of a land, Daui,
with which they are friendly, a very long way off. Daunai, of Orangerie
Bay, is called Daui in some places. To their tree houses they have
ladders with long vines on each side to assist ascent. Our delay here
will help us to know the people. I have just been showing them the
likenesses of two young friends, and the excitement has been great, men,
women, and children crowding round, thumb in mouth, scratching and
shaking heads, and leaping and screaming, coming again and again to have
a look.
22_nd_.--A number of strangers slept, or rather made a noise all night in
houses close by, and amongst them a spiritist, whose hideous singing and
chanting of revelations was enough to drive one frantic. We tried to
quiet him, but it was of no use--silenced he would not be. A man sitting
by us when having morning tea asked for some of the salt we were using.
We told him it was not salt, but sugar. He insisted it was salt, and we
gave him some on his taro. He began eating, and the look of disgust on
his face was worth seeing; he rose up, went out, spat out what he had in
his mouth, and threw the remainder away.
23_rd_.--Cannot get the natives to move; they say they are tired, and
will have to rest until to-morrow morning, and they are also afraid of
their enemies. The excitement is great, but what it all means is
difficult for us to say. Noon: all have cleared out with spears, clubs,
and shields, two men having been killed in a village near, and they have
gone to get hold of the murderers if they can. Dressed in their feathers
and fighting gear, with faces streaked, they do certainly look ugly.
After being some time gone, they returned, saying the enemy, who were
from Eikiri, had gone off to the back mountains.
28_th_.--Left this morning, and had to carry our things, no natives
accompanying us. When about four miles on, we met natives who willingly
took our bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu. The travelling was not so
bad--a good deal of descending and ascending. Oriope, the old chief, was
delighted to see us. His wives and children have gone with great burdens
of betel-nuts and taro to trade at the seaside. The old fellow goes with
us. We are now 1530 feet above sea-level, east-by-south from last
camp--Mount Owen Stanley due north. Oriope is Mr. Lawes's great friend.
He used to live in Munikahila, but trouble through marrying a wife has
sent him in here. He seems greatly attached to Ruatoka. He is a
terrible talker, long-winded and deafening.
29_th_.--We had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping-quarters on the top
of a rock. The house, being open all round, felt exceedingly cold when
the fire went down. The people here seem much lighter than at the other
place, and the children have a more pleasant expression. Basaltic rocks
lie scattered about in every direction. We had our flag flying, and the
admiration was great, the natives viewing it from underneath then from a
distance, and in each position noticing something new. About half-past
eleven we left. The old chief and four carriers went with us. After
crossing the head of the Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly-
wooded country, that may yet become a very extensive coffee country.
After travelling for some hours, we camped 1800 feet above sea-level. On
the way the carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted on
their going on a little further. Strange formation of country all around
here. This ridge seems alone in a large basin, one side of which is bare
perpendicular rock. There is a good quantity of cedar, but so difficult
to get away that it would never pay to work. We are north-east from
Uakinumu.
30_th_.--We started late, continued our journey along the ridge, rising
gradually to 2250 feet, and then along a fine level country for some
miles, when we began to descend. Soon our old friend began shouting, and
received an answer from a village a long way off. Close by us was a very
steep descent, down which we went till we came under the shadow of a
great rock, where we rested, and in about an hour up came ten natives
unarmed, touched our chins, and we theirs, then all squatted to smoke.
One of them, some time ago, had been to the coast, and knew Rua; his joy
at now seeing him in here was great. A shot had been fired at a cockatoo
before they heard the shouting, and they were much afraid. When all
seemed satisfied, and the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start,
so up bundles, and away we went. When having gone about two miles, there
was a halt in an open space, and we were given to understand we must camp
there. I could not agree to it, "We must go on to the village." "No,
you must stay here."
"We cannot; we must go on."
"If you go on you will be devoured by the _boroma badababa_ (great pig)."
I insisted upon going on; they called to those in the village, and on
being answered we again went on for about half a mile, when every bundle
was put down and a halt called, and again we had to listen to the
unintelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy us.
We sat down and tried to get them to see as we did, that a house was
necessary for our comfort. A thunderstorm was working up, and soon the
rain would be down on us--let us be off for the village. They had a long
confab with those in the village on the ridge, which, when ended, seemed
favourable; and so up the steep side of the ridge we went. When halfway
up they halted, and wanted us to camp under the shelter of a great rock.
Seeing some young men with bundles rounding the rock, I joined myself to
them, and away we went, followed by the others to the village. Under the
first house in the village sat a man, with a large pig standing by him,
which he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it quiet; and as we
went along we saw great pigs under the houses. Certainly they were
savage-looking pigs. We were given an open house, and the rain was
coming on. I was ascending, when it became necessary to spring from a
pig that was after me. Is this Goldie's big beast the natives told him
of? This is a fine country. We passed through large plantations of
yams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. During the evening we had crowds of
men and lads--no women or children--to see us. Some are quite light
copper-coloured, others are very dark; nearly all are dressed with
cassowary feathers; many with ruffs round their necks made from these
feathers. There were none very tall, but all seem well-built men, with
good muscle. They have the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel-
chewing as at Kerepunu. Some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones are
well carved. They are a very noisy lot; one would think they were trying
to see who could speak the loudest. They tell us it is impossible to
cross to the other side, as further inland the ridge ends--and there is
nothing but bare broken rook--inaccessible all round. The majority of
the men are bearded and moustached, and have cassowary feathers like a
pad behind, on which they sit. They dress with a string. The demand for
salt is very great; grains are picked up, and friends are supplied with a
few grains from what they have got for taro. The name of the place is
Kenagagara, 1810 feet above the sea-level, E.N.E. from Uakinumu.
31_st_.--Great crowds of people keep going and coming. We spent a
miserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave round the fire,
and it took him all night to recount the doings of the _Naos_
(foreigners), not forgetting the toilet. At times he waxed eloquent, and
the whole gully rung again. It was useless telling him to be quiet. All
men and lads have the nose and ears pierced. A number of women and
children are about. Some of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and
clear-skinned, as light-coloured as Eastern Polynesians. The children
are lithe, blithe, and hearty--some very dark and some very light. The
women have brought large quantities of taro for salt. Oriope is very
sleepy, and I have every now and again to wake him up, so that to-night
he may sleep soundly, and not prevent our sleeping.
My name here is Oieva--that of the fine-looking old father of the
village. At present I am all alone the others being out after birds. The
natives are very friendly. They relish salt and ginger, which I have
tried with them, and which they pronounce good. Ruatoka and Maka have
returned; they shot a pig, which the natives who accompanied them cooked
and divided, to be carried in. The excitement is great over the
division, and the whole assembly are shouting; those from the hunt
recounting the day's proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to the
intense delight and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly raw.
A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then division
is made, then re-divided, and eaten. They take a piece between the
teeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to the
mouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut up and eaten.
_August_ 1_st_.--Left this morning to look for a track. We passed
through a fine large village about one mile from here, and were joined by
sixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces painted. They
accompanied us for about four miles, and then turned away to the south.
We continued on the ridge for some miles further, until we could see that
all round were great inaccessible mountains with bare faces. It begins
with the Astrolabe, extending west until Vetura is reached, and then away
east by south until the centre of the range is reached. In some places
it has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it
is broken rock with bush growth, and only at very long distances can
tracks be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We descended
to the river, a large one, flowing west, through great rocks, often lost,
sometimes only pools appearing here and there until, some distance down,
and when eight hundred feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine and
flowing river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inevitable
_kuku_, and then skirted the side of the ridge, passing close by and
under great rocks and overhanging cliffs, and up a most extraordinary
steep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we sat
down and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock. This West
Indian "long breakfast" goes well when thirsty and hungry. The natives
who accompanied us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned them on
the fire and ate them.
A truly wonderful country! What terrible convulsions of nature there
must have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and rolled
about like mere pebbles! The villages are so built that they are
accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. We saw no game of
any kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near, as every one of
the natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs made from the
feathers. Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360 feet above the
sea-level; we call it Mount Bellamy; it stands out alone, and from it we
saw the Astrolabe, Vetura, and Munikahila.
2_nd_.--We left this morning for a pig and cassowary hunt, but were
unsuccessful. We bagged four cockatoos, one green parrot, one brueros,
and three pigeons. Of my travelling in this land, to-day beats all; it
was along mere goat tracks, on the edge of frightful precipices, down
precipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges, on hands and knees at
times, hanging on to roots and vines, and glad when a tree offered a
little rest and support. I gave it up at last, hungry and weary, and let
the others proceed. I stayed with a party of natives who were getting a
kind of large almond with a very thick fleshy rind, the nut inside very
hard, which they broke open with stones, filling their kits with the
kernels. They call the nut _okari_. They fed me with sugar-cane, taro,
and _okari_, and then got leaves for me to rest on. They had all their
arms handy; I was, as I am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughly
comfortable with them. Only once in New Guinea have I carried a weapon,
and then we had spears thrown at us. I consider a man safer without than
with arms. The return "home" was frightfully steep and trying to wearied
and hungry folks.
3_rd_.--Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday, making head-
dresses. They take the feather, strip it down, throw the quill away,
fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together, dry in sun, then bind
round their combs. One youth is preparing a head-covering from the bark
of the mulberry: he is making native cloth by chewing the bark, and no
wonder he complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a long job. I gave
the children presents of beads this morning, and some of the old
gentlemen objected, saying they ought to have had them; but I did not
understand them. It is very convenient at times not to understand what
is said--it is thoroughly native. We have been asking them if they will
receive teachers, and they all say yes, and at once, for it means
tomahawks, knives, and salt. They say, "To-morrow we'll all go and get
the two teachers at Munikahila and bring them here now." We here are in
excellent health and spirits; a little disappointed at not being able to
cross. Certainly we have not lived on the best, and we have camped
anywhere. I like these mountaineers--free, independent, and kind. When
they cook taro, if near, we get a hot taro to eat, and often they bring
hot taro to the house. They bring their presents of taro and sugar-cane
and at once walk away. They have very good houses, thatched with grass,
some with a verandah on two sides, and all built six feet and more from
the ground. When we were away yesterday, a wild boar from the bush took
possession of the village. Often when the natives are in the bush they
have to seek refuge in climbing trees from the savage tuskers, especially
if they have been speared, and are determined to fight. Our flag is
flying, to signify that it is "resting day."
The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving the body in a house set
apart for it, which they often visit. When a number of deaths take
place, they leave the village and settle somewhere else not far off.
There is one grave here, near to our house, on which a tobacco plant is
growing, a bamboo pipe, the property of the deceased, alongside, and a
few sticks on end with yams on top. When they do bury, the body is
placed standing in the grave.
4_th_.--We left Kenakagara this morning, accompanied by natives. Our
friends soon left us, and we lost our way, and after some hours'
travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded by precipices.
It has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance, trying hard to get to
the south-west. At last, wet through and thoroughly tired, we camped to
have breakfast, dinner, and supper in one. We were ten hours on the
tramp, and carrying our bags, so feel ready for a night's rest.
5_th_.--We see where we are; but how to get out is the problem to be
solved. Ruatoka has gone to look for a track. We had a fine night, a
roaring fire at our feet, and so enjoyed sleep. Camping this way is
preferable to living in native huts, far more comfortable and enjoyable;
but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives. Uakinumu
bears south-west-by-west from us now, and could be reached in a few
hours, if only we could get down the precipice. Rua has returned. When
some distance off, he heard cooeying, and responded, when our old friend,
who had been looking for us in a great state of fear, shouted his name.
Rua told him to follow, and he did so, arriving at the camp soon after.
He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced us all round, and then
sat down.
After breakfast, we set off, each carrying a bundle. The travelling was
difficult, until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and up to
Uakinumu. When on the spur, the old man shouted for the youths to come
and help us; they cooeyed back, and we hoped to see them in about an
hour, or at the most two hours; after waiting and no one coming, we
descended, and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly along and
saying others were following. I felt sure they delayed their coming to
meet us until we should be near the village, where they would take the
bags and receive tobacco and salt; but they were sold; we trudged on, and
would not let them have a bag. We took no notice of those we met, and to
their solicitations asking to carry bags we turned a deaf ear. The
chief's eldest son came along and begged to have my bag. No, on no
condition. The poor old chief was in a sad state; but as we are likely
to require their services some future day, it is necessary to teach them
that for work or service they will be paid, but for skulking, and hoping
to get tobacco and salt, their hopes are futile. We reached the village,
and Oriope did all he possibly could to keep us. No, on we will go; his
sleepy boys may sleep on. We gave him and his little grandchild who
accompanied him presents, bade him good-bye, and away.
6_th_.--Here, and in all the villages we have been, we have seen very few
women and girls, and very few of the young men seem to be married. Do
they kill the girls when born?
7_th_.--Left this morning for a mountain close by, hoping to see the
windings of the Laroki from it. We had to descend 1000 feet, and then
ascend 1800. From the droppings about, I should say the cassowary and
pig abound in the gullies about this mountain. We found on the top a
deserted village and five cocoanut-trees. We could make nothing of the
Laroki, because of thick bush on top. We saw that the Munikahila creek
flows west and south, until, due north of this, it turns sharp and flows
north-by-east and falls into the Goldie. We reached camp with thoroughly
whetted appetites, and enjoyed breakfast and dinner of pigeons and taro.
We call the mountain Mount Elsie. It is north of Vetura, and west and
south of Keninumu. We have seen four new villages close to one another
where a teacher could work well. We have now five positions for
teachers, and I hope before we have finished with this inland trip to
have thirty, giving four and five villages to each teacher. In crossing
one of the spurs, a native and his son brought us bananas, and water in a
bamboo. It is difficult to drink out of a bamboo. Place the open end to
the mouth, raise gradually, look out, here it comes--steady. Ah, too
much raised; it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking you.
Try again--well, a little better, yet far from perfect. Choking, are
you? Never mind, practise, and you will soon be an expert--a native in
drinking, truly. The natives have been having a feast. They began with
boiled bananas and finished with a large snake cooked in pots. It was
cut up and divided out amongst all--sixteen eggs were found in her, a
little larger than a good-sized fowl's egg. They seemed to relish it
much, and the gravy was much thought of. They say pig is nothing
compared to snake. Ah, well, tastes differ.
9_th_.--We had a few noisy strangers in the village, and they seemed to
be anxious that all they had to say should be heard in every house. The
conversation is kept up by the inmates of the various houses, and at
times all are speaking and trying to drown one another. A lull comes,
and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and so roll on your side for a sleep;
but, alas, it was only drawing breath, the noise being perhaps worse than
before. Our chief and his wife had a quarrel over something or other
last evening. Of course the woman had the best of it. Strange, she said
very little, but that little seemed to be to the point. Every now and
again he would shout, _Pirikava_! _pirikava_! _pirikava_! (Dear me! dear
me! dear me!), and then scream and rage. The wife would then laugh at
him, which made him worse, screaming and dancing more than ever. She
would then say something, which he would answer, and so quieted him down
a little. All have gone hunting to-day--men, women, and children, pigs
and dogs. Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one sneaking about,
we were to be sure to shoot them; but if they came up openly to us, and
pointed to the nose and stomach, they were friends, and had come for salt
and tobacco. We get our water in canvas bags, and teachers or
missionaries coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from the
very best canvas.
11_th_.--A number of natives have gone to Port Moresby, to help Rua and
Maka with tomahawks, salt, &c. After they left, we went to the bush, and
cut down a number of trees for posts for a house. The chief, Poroko, has
given us land, at an elevation of 1260 feet; splendid view all round; and
if not healthy, I know not where to go, unless it be to the top of Mount
Owen Stanley. There will be plenty of room for taro, sugar-cane, and
coffee plantations. A woman often passes us with a frightful load of
taro and sugar-cane on her back, and on the top of all an infant in a net
basket. She goes to the next house, swings the infant kit off first,
placing it on the ground, where the infant in it kicks and rolls, but
cannot get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed.
14_th_.--This morning, after an early breakfast, we started with the Port
Moresby natives for Munikahila, they being anxious to secure a supply of
betel-nuts to return with. Have promised our old friend Oriope of
Uakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip, that if he led us across
and gave us bearers, all should have tomahawks, knives, etc. He did not
carry out his part, and the bearers from him returned, leaving us inland.
I was anxious to pay them for what they did, so we went on there with
tomahawks, tobacco, and salt. We were about two miles from the village,
when we shouted, and were replied to, and soon four young fellows came
rushing along, in a great state of perspiration and very excited, rubbing
our chins and throwing their arms around us, highly delighted that we had
returned. They were not going to serve us as they did the last time. We
reached the village, and were seated with strangers and surrounded by old
friends, when Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to where
we were, nearly breathless, and streaming with perspiration; he threw his
arms around me, embraced me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine,
sitting down and not speaking for some time. When he began, he said he
was afraid we were terribly offended, and would not return; but, having
returned to him, we must stay. No, we cannot; we must return to Keninumu
that night. Ah, he could manage it; he would have us tied, and so detain
us. Four coast natives who knew the Koiari language were with us. We
told our old friend we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that he
had better set out at once for them. Soon the women and lads were off.
We then removed to our old house on the rock, and there told him, through
the interpreter, what we had expected of him, and that he had not done
it, but that having told him we should pay them, we had come now to do so
for the journey made. We gave our tomahawks, tobacco, and salt, and the
old man was truly delighted, saying, "I and my people will take you
wherever we may go with safety." He does not go to sea on the other
side, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says it is impossible to cross over
unless we go up by Yule Island, and there he says it is dangerous,
because of the cannibals. In returning, I saw, for the first time in New
Guinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island _kava_ (_Piper methysticum_).
17_th_.--We have just had a service, and through Kena we have told the
natives the object of our coming and staying, that they might know of the
true God, and of Jesus Christ the Saviour. It was interesting to mark
the different expressions on their faces as they heard for the first time
of God--the God of love, and that as His servants we were here. When
told of the resurrection they looked at one another; some laughed, others
seemed serious. They were very particular in their inquiries as to the
name of the Great Spirit, and of His Son--forgetting, and returning to
hear it again.
18_th_.--Here we are at Uakinumu for another trip; but alas, alas! cannot
get carriers. The young men are all off wallaby-hunting, so we must
start. This evening, a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs,
which were cooked in the bamboos, then spread on leaves; some salt was
dissolved in the mouth and squirted over all, and it was amusing to see
the gusto with which men, women, and children partook. Oriope is very
persistent in wanting a teacher. He was greatly delighted when I gave
him a large knife; he examined it all over, then pressed it with tender
affection to his bosom. Fearing lest some friends who are with him at
present might ask it from him, he returned it to me, requesting me to
keep it until they left.
20_th_.--Last night, after turning in, I heard a peculiar noise, as of
some one in great distress, then loud speaking in a falsetto voice, and
knew then what was up--we had a spiritist in the village, and revelations
were now about to be made. We were all named, and the places we were to
visit. I felt somewhat anxious as to the revelation, for if it should be
the least doubtful as to our going, no native would stir with us.
However, the revelation, on being interpreted to us by Kena, was all
right; we were good men, and kind, and the villages would all willingly
receive us. The spirit dilated at length on the good qualities of
foreign tobacco and the badness of the native stuff, and wound up by
asking for some foreign. Oriope at once got up and gave from his own
stock what was wanted. These native spiritists are terrible nuisances;
they get whatever they ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly in
them, they have the power of upsetting all arrangements and causing
serious trouble. This morning, I found our spirit friend to be a man who
sat in our house all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland village. He
has quite a different look from the other natives--an anxious, melancholy
expression. While at morning coffee, he came and sat down alongside of
us all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceased
friend comes into him, and then things are revealed, the spirit speaking
through him. He says, when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago, he knew
it, and told the people of his village of it.
The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies.
When sitting round the fire with our old chief, we asked him if he knew
of any tailed folks about inland. "Oh dear, yes." And then he gave us a
perfect and laughable description of what must be some creature of the
monkey tribe. It climbs, laughs, and talks a peculiar language of its
own; it scratches the head, slaps the thigh, and sits down to eat like a
man. I then said, "But they are not really men?" "Well, not exactly,
but very near it; they are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black."
The tail, according to his description, must be about a fathom long. We
are to see them, and must, he says, secure one or two, dead or alive. Our
spirit is out in his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have not
returned, and we cannot leave to-morrow.
21_st_.--Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here we are nursing
Patience, and trying to make her a dear friend. We are promised a start
to-morrow. In the evening, the hunters came in with large supplies of
wallaby. They report innumerable horses and foreigners as having gone to
Kupele; we suppose it to be Goldie's party. From to-day's shooting, the
old man got a green parrot, and devoured it raw. Oriope dressed himself
in his fighting gear, and went through a few antics; he looked a perfect
fiend. He is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece broken
off; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in a
neighbouring village. He killed him. "What, stand before me!"
22_nd_.--I was eating a banana this morning, when I was told not to throw
the skin away, but hand it to them, which I did, when it was passed round
and kissed by all with short ejaculations. I asked what it meant, and
was told it was their manner of thanking the spirits for ripe bananas. We
started at eight a.m. with eight carriers and our old friend, and twenty
inland natives returning home with wallaby; one poor woman had two large
kits on her back, and an infant in another, hanging in front of her. We
were seven hours on the tramp, along a good path, on which horses could
get along well. The most difficult ascent was shortly after we left
Uakinumu; but the path was good. The last hour of travelling was in a
thunderstorm, with a regular tropical pour of rain. When we neared the
village Marivaeanumu, the men came rushing out with their spears and
shields, thinking it was an attacking party; but on seeing Maka, who was
just behind the first native, and I following up, they shouted out,
_Nao_, _nao_! (foreigners), and ran back with their spears. The village
is small, and the houses very dilapidated; it is 1800 feet above
sea-level. Maka was buying taro with salt, and having finished, some
natives noticed damp salt adhering to his hand; they seized the hand, and
in turn licked it until quite clean. Grains of salt falling were sought
for and picked up. The shields here are the same as at Hood Bay,
beautifully made. They are going to fight soon with another district,
and are making great preparations in spears, clubs, and shields.
23rd.--Our spiritist gave us a very short and indistinct seance last
night. A man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt, near the Laroki,
he told us, was dead. He seemed to be raving a great deal, and wound up
the first part with, _Nao kuku daure_ (Foreign tobacco is bad).
Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told Oriope that, if that spirit
did not at once go back where it came from, I should certainly have to
make it; he reported what I said, and the spirit thought it advisable to
leave. We started this morning after a good breakfast, and had good
travelling across a fine level country E.S.E. for about four hours,
crossing several times the head of the Laroki: it is a magnificent
country for horses. In somewhat thick scrub, a youth met the first of
our party, and was fraternizing very feelingly with them: I appeared, and
he took to his heels, and no calling of friends or foreigners could bring
him back. We came suddenly upon a woman and two children, and, poor
things! they went into a terrible state; nothing would comfort them;
beads, tobacco, and salt lost their charm on them. The family pig was
with them; it danced, grunted, advanced, retired, and finally made at me.
In the morning I took a piece of plaster from my heel, and threw it into
the fireplace; instant search was made for it by about a dozen natives;
it was found, and handed back to me, they making signs that I should
throw it somewhere else. Yesterday morning I unthinkingly put the loose
hair from my comb into the fire, and great was the outcry.
We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, and in a fine house
twelve feet from the ground. We are about 1530 feet above sea-level.
Teachers here need have no difficulty about food; there is a great
abundance all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and bread-fruit. A
teacher with some "go" in him, and a good earnest wife to help him, would
do well here. I am inclined to think an easier way here will be from
Moumiri; but we have to travel with natives where they can take us with
safety to themselves. Sitting round the fire a little while ago, our
spirit friend having just left us, an old woman shouted out to Oriope to
look out, as the spirit was about to go through the thatch near to where
he was sitting. Instant search was made, but nothing found. She then
called out from her verandah that it had gone, as Rua and Maka were doing
something with their guns. I may say the old woman was with us last
night, and heard my threat. We have had the description here of some
other animal that is in the Kupele and Moroka districts. It is a
dangerous one to go near, and several have lost their lives from it.
24_th_.--Very heavy rain. A number of people have come in from the
villages to have a look at us, so I have to go through the process of
baring arms and chest. This forenoon they described an animal to us that
I think must be the tiger--a long animal, with a long tail and large
paws, treads lightly when seeing its prey, and then bounds upon it,
tearing the bowels out first. They say they are as long as the
house--twelve feet. We are not prepared to tackle such, customers. Our
host is a quiet man, with a very pleasing expression of countenance. I
like the people much, and pray God the day is near when they shall have
the Gospel preached unto them, and receive it, and know it to be the
power of God unto salvation. Evil spirits reign over them, and the
utterance of every rascally spiritist is thoroughly believed.
They seem very much attached to their children, and in their own peculiar
way, I dare say, love their wives. Husband and wife meeting after a
separation is strange. Some who returned with us had been away for a
fortnight; their wives looked pleased when they saw them, so did the
husbands; not a word was spoken, only a look; clubs and spears were put
down, and the husbands went to where other men were sitting, the wives to
light fires and cook food; when cooked, the wife took it to the husband,
who ate a little, gave away some, and then went and sat by his wife. I
have noticed that the wives are particularly happy when preparing this
return food. Oriope's wife, who accompanied us, is ill with a cold; I
wished her to take a dose of chlorodyne, but she cried and hesitated
much; the old man then took the cup and told her to look; he drank some
of it, said it was not bad, and then pressed her to drink it off, which
she did.
25_th_.--We left this morning at eight, and arrived at Orofedabe, in the
Favele district, at one p.m. The walking was good and steady, the first
few miles along the valley beneath a mountain in the Sogeri district,
which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range near to Eikiri. We crossed
the Laroki several times, and sat near its head; then ascended an easy
ridge of the Owen Stanley Range. We travelled for about two hours along
this ridge, then descended, crossing two streams, which we suppose to be
the head streams of the Kemp Welch, flowing into Hood Bay. There are six
small villages on ridges close by, high mountains all round, and not far
off the mountain on which the wild animal lives. They tried to persuade
us that this was Meroka, and there was no use our going further; but we
could not believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed to them
where Eikiri, Sogeri, Kupele, and Hapele were, and told them where I
expected to find Meroka, which cannot be very far off. When they saw I
knew something of our position, they said we could not get to Meroka,
because of rocks and wild beasts. At the village we slept the last two
nights they did all they could to detain us, because of the salt and
beads. They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious that all should go
to his cousin and friends, with whom we were staying. In a conversation
they had under the house, shortly after we arrived, I could hear
sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us there, and not
let other villages get salt and beads. I got thoroughly vexed with the
old man, and told him he could return home, and that unless we saw
numerous villages with plenty of people we should not again return here.
He turned right round, and told us we should see Favele and Meroka, and
many villages, only we must return to his cousin's; that was all right,
we certainly should return. This morning, I told him to remain and take
care of his wife; that the people here would lead us and carry our
things. He begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure our
return, and I did so. Some of the people here are very dark and others
very light.
26_th_.--They tried hard to prevent our going to Meroka this morning,
saying we should be eaten by the _Jakoni_ (wild beast)--and how could
they return? That would not do--go I must; so I got the things out, and
asked some Meroka natives, who had come in, to pick them up and let us
start. They refused, and joined in with our friends, saying we had
better remain. No; I must see Meroka, and until I saw it not a taro
would be bought nor a pile of salt given. They all sat down, looking
true savages. After some time, I said, "Meroka, or we return at once." I
got my bag and went on to the path; they got up, and called to me to come
back--they would go to Meroka, but leave the things, and return here to
sleep. No; I must have the things; I might want to sleep at Meroka. That
was terrible, the salt would be finished, and there would be none for
them here. Would I not consent to their taro being bought, and then they
would go with me? No; Meroka first, and taro when we return.
Seeing there was nothing for it--that go I would--they consented, and the
Meroka folks picked up the things, and away we went. It was a short walk
across the side of a ridge, down about 600 feet and up to 1500, and then
along another ridge. We soon had crowds to see us, men, women, and
children; and all were delighted, for we bought their taro. The village
we stayed at was new, and they told us formerly they lived further in on
the mountain, but a man was eaten by the _Jakoni_, and they came down. A
number of natives were in mourning for the man eaten. After some time,
we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of the villages and
decide on our position. They tried hard to prevent us, but we went on, a
few following to the next village. They pretended great fear of the
_Jakoni_, and at some places begged of us to tread lightly, and not to
speak. It was all a ruse to get us back. We went on, and up to the
highest village, where we had a splendid view. We counted fourteen
villages on the ridges in the Meroka basin and on the other side of the
river we had crossed, and as many more known as Havele. I believe it
would be much easier to get here from Eikiri than from Sogeri. The
natives of Oriramamo, the highest village, told us they went from there
to Eikiri in one day.
The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very dark, others very light.
Some of the women had quite an Eastern Polynesian look; some of the
children were well-formed, and really pretty. A few men had
light-coloured whiskers; curly heads abounded, although a number had
straight hair. They say they are not Koiari. The Koiari comprises
Munikahila, Eikiri, Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari; and Eikiri is N.W.
from Oriramamo; Mount Bellamy is W.N.W. A high round mountain, I have
named Ben Cruachan, east; Mount Nisbet, W.S.W. The high rock on the
easterly side of Mount Nisbet is just over the house where we slept, and
will be known in future as the Clachan. They say there are five kinds of
wild animals on the mountains at the back, and but for these they could
easily cross to Kupele. The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large and
fierce. The Papara and Gadana are small, but fierce. We were eating
biscuits, and they begged for a very small piece each, to keep as a charm
to help them catch pigs. Hairs from the beard are in great demand as
charms. Having seen all we wanted, and not being able to persuade the
natives to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals, I
decided to return to Orofedabe; so we returned to the village, gave the
taro we bought to the people, paid our attendants and for the house where
our things were, and away we went. Our friends were glad to see us, and
rejoiced greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt, and taro was
bought. We are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon.
27_th_.--Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger; the natives
tried it and failed; again Maka did it, and all who were looking on came
to the conclusion it was very easy for him to do, as a spirit held it for
him. In each place we have been, when at prayers, all the natives are
most respectful, keeping perfect silence and bending their heads. We had
a fine tramp back to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki after it.
We have paid our carriers, and they are rejoicing greatly. We were glad
to find our old friend and his wife well, and the things we left just as
we hung them up. They are very anxious to have teachers here. We were
telling them that we could see no people, and they have gone and brought
in great crowds, saying, "No people! what are these?" I cut up tobacco
and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd, and called out,
"For Sogeri." One of their number was appointed by them, and he
distributed it, all sitting quietly round. I got some salt in a paper,
and did as with the tobacco. All rose, and in order approached, took
some and retired, leaving the remainder, nearly half, for a very old man.
The beads I gave to the women, the men saying they ought to have had them
too. "Come and live with us; there is no place like Sogeri--it is good,
it is large, it is peaceful, and there is plenty of food." So say the
Sogerians. I was sitting on the ladder of the house, the crowd sitting
round. Rua was in the bush with his gun; he fired at a bird, and it was
amusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd when they heard the
shot.
28_th_.--Last night, a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept in the house
with us, to be ready to lead us to his village and other villages about
in the morning. We started about half-past seven; but it was evident at
the start he had been talked over during the night in quiet whisperings,
so as not to take us anywhere but his own village. We walked about a
mile and a half, and came to his village, in a fine dry position, much
preferable to the one we had left--good houses, one house floored with
cedar slabs, and having a fine verandah all round. I wished to see a
chief I had met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told he was at the next
village, so we up with our bundles and away for about half a mile further
on, to a nice clean village. I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to the
places he named yesterday; he was quite willing, and began pointing in
the various directions, and naming the villages, but was soon silenced by
signs and words from others; he then said he could not go; so we left to
go to Epakari; a young man very much attached to Maka, and who has been
with us for ten days, having promised yesterday to lead us there. We had
to carry our bags--not a very agreeable job. We had great excitement at
leaving, our old chief insisting on our going back to Uakinumu; but we
had discarded him, and were determined to find our own way should Someri,
Maka's friend, fail us. I gave orders to keep a good look-out on Someri,
who was carrying a bundle, and he was given into Maka's care. Our young
friend was very quiet, and tried skulking behind and moving on fast
ahead. When crossing a ridge about three miles from the village, I was
leading, when we heard Maka calling for Someri. Rua at once returned,
and found the bird had flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with him
the camp tomahawk, which Maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stick
with. It would be folly to return to get the tomahawk, so we kept south
and west for some distance, when we came to a deserted village; then we
turned west. We crossed the Laroki several times before we came into the
open country; at our last crossing we met a company of natives, all
armed, on watch for Makapili natives, who were expected to attack them.
They took our bundles, and led us to a small village, where we met some
of our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their village and to our old
house. A young child called Maka was presented for presents, the father
telling Maka he called the child after him, because he was his friend
when we were here last. We have now the open country before us, and
expect no trouble in getting along. The natives are all unsettled at
present, and every man we meet is armed. I can see the country better to-
day than when here last week. Marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hills
of Eikiri and north-north-west from Sogeri. The latter district is in a
valley between the Owen Stanley Range and Mount Nisbet, to the south-west
of it. Eribagu would make a good station for the Sogeri district. This
place would be a suitable station being at the head of the plain that
reaches away to the Astrolabe on the one side, and up to Vetura and
Uakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount Nisbet, and away east and
south, by the country at the back of Mapakapa. The Laroki rises in the
Owen Stanley Range, and is the drain for the Sogeri district and all the
plain; it is very circuitous, and near here very deep and slow, flowing
west.
29_th_.--For nearly six hours we have been travelling with our bags, and
I can honestly say I feel tired. We are now at a new village--the houses
just going up--on the top of the high green hill in front of Munikahila,
overlooking the Kupa Moumiri valley. The village is named Keninumu, and
consists of four houses at present, two on high trees and two on high
rocks. We have pitched our tent close by, and intend resting until
Monday, when we hope to start for the plain--a very fine country, but no
natives. This part of the plain is dry and barren, with stunted
gum-trees. A party met us when near the village, and a woman with a
child on her shoulder, I suppose seeing me look tired, insisted on my
giving her my bag. I looked at the child, and wondered how she was going
to manage, but that was soon arranged; she made the child sit on her left
shoulder, holding her by the hair; then she took my bundle, and away she
went. Some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish to
visit, and I hope to keep them until we leave; it will be a help and of
great value as an introduction at this time of trouble. We are 1440 feet
above sea-level.
A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at Moumiri, and
natives from all the districts round were present. A native of
Munikahila speared a man from Tabori, who died soon after, so now
Makipili, Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with Tabori, and
unitedly mean to attack Munikahila. All the natives condemn the murder
of the man, because of the time and place.
31_st_.--Natives all excitement, expecting Munikahila to be attacked.
Every evening the men go armed to Munikahila, and the women, children,
dogs, and pigs to the bush. I am sorry our Keninumu friends should
consider it their duty to assist the murderers. The natives of the
district to which the murdered man belonged are quietly biding their
time, hunting wallaby close by us. The kind woman who assisted me the
other day has a son by her first husband living at Keninumu, and for a
long time she has not seen him, he being afraid to come here. She knows
that Maka was returning yesterday, and felt sure her son would accompany
him. When some distance from here, Maka fired a shot, to let us know he
was coming, to which we responded, assuring him all was right. On
hearing the shot, the poor woman became quite excited, came and sat down
by our fire, got up and got us firewood, sat down again, telling Kena to
get the taro cooked for Maka, rose again and fetched more firewood, then
sat down in front of the path, looking steadily and anxiously for the
travellers. Poor body! they came in sight, but her son was not one of
them. She seemed to feel it very much, rose, went to her house, and was
not seen again until this morning. God grant the day is near when the
song the heavenly host sang, "Glory to God in the highest, peace on earth
and good will toward men," shall be known and enjoyed here!
_September_ 1_st_.--We left this morning at seven o'clock and drew up at
Makapili at four p.m., resting by the way. For salt, tobacco, and beads,
we had help all the way. What appears a fine level plain in the distance
turns out to be a fine country, full of ridges and luxuriant valleys,
abounding in every kind of native vegetable. From the departure this
morning until our bringing-up we could have ridden horses at a fine
canter along the ridges from one to another. This is the best country I
have yet seen in New Guinea, and the natives seem very kind and friendly.
At the Laroki we had to strip, and, just above small rapids, holding on
by a long line fastened to poles on each side, we crossed over. The
natives have the line to help them when the river is up. We called at
several villages on the ridges, passed others, some on large table-rocks.
Fancy a table-rock with twenty or thirty houses on it. At Chokinumu, a
village 1600 feet above the sea, S.E. from Marivaenumu seven miles, we
alarmed the people so that they rushed away, leaving us the village.
Shortly a man came back, pretending to be very unconcerned, chewing betel-
nut; we soon were friends, and he called out to the others, and they
returned. We told him where we were going, and he said he and his wife
would accompany us, as we were the first foreigners who had ever been to
his village, and he would not leave us. At other villages they also
cleared out, screaming terribly. Gimenumu, 1900 feet above sea-level,
and two miles east from Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station--a
large village, fine plantations, and plenty of water. We crossed several
streams from the Astrolabe Range, all flowing into the Laroki. The whole
drainage of the Astrolabe Range and of this country falls into the
Laroki. We are now in Vaiako, Makipili district, 2250 feet, in a really
lovely spot.
There are a great many natives in this district. About four miles from
here we passed a deserted village on a table-rock, at one time the home
of this people; but the Sogeri natives came over and killed eleven of
them, and the others thought it time to settle somewhere else. We have
now a splendid view of Mount Owen Stanley, due north of us, and rising
far away, clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud. Mount Bellamy
stands alone, with a bare south-east side, and Mount Nisbet just across
from here, behind which is Sogeri, so much dreaded by this people. On
all the ridges stretching away to the eastward from here behind Kapakapa
are natives. A woman, coming to have a look at us, spied our black dog,
Misi Dake, and off she went, climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than I
ever saw a native climb before. We met a fine old patriarch in a stream
about two miles from here, and the meeting with our friend from Chokinumu
was most affecting, touching chins and falling into one another's arms
weeping. He sat down beside me with grave dignity, and the woman from
Chokinumu sat in front of him, chanting and weeping. We had strawberries
coming along, with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry.
The raspberry bush is very abundant.
2_nd_.--Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the tent to have a
peep at us. At eight o'clock, we started for the summit of the
Astrolabe, to have a look at the sea. It is very broken on the summit,
and we had a good deal of ascending and descending before we got over
Kaili, to be disappointed in not seeing the sea, the fog hanging thick
under our feet. We returned by a very circuitous path, passing several
villages built on rocks and trees. On one large table-rock was a snug
village, and to the east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved.
On feast days, the food is collected close to these, and a platform is
fixed to the posts, on which dancing takes place. We returned at three
p.m. The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large present
of food, and saying he hoped we would soon return. I hope the same.
After some delay, so that it might not appear as payment for the present,
we gave our present to the old chief; when he got the tomahawk, he wept
for joy, looked at his friends, then at us, pressed it to his bosom, and
then kissed it. The chiefs name is Kunia.
3_rd_.--We left Makipili this morning at eight o'clock, and came along
leisurely, arriving at Chokinumu at half-past ten. The chief and his
wife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night in their village, and,
seeing it would displease them if we went on, we consented. We had a
thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon, after a very hot sun, the
thunder rolling all round us. The chief Lohiamalaka and his wife are
exceedingly kind and attentive; they have kept close by us since we left
here on Monday. I am sorry for the Makipili people; they are so afraid
of Sogeri, that they have left their houses, and are living in the bush
and under the shelter of rocks. Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to no
conditions of peace. Several overtures have been made, but all are
useless. We were told at several places that if we ventured to Makipili
we should never return; but we have been there, were treated kindly, and
pressed to return.
4_th_.--Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our tent, they got so
wet that it required a day to dry them, so we decided to remain here and
visit the Laroki Falls. Ten days ago, we found from the natives that
they were near here. The native name is _Round_. We found the falls in
a deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe and east end of Vetura
Range. On each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down, in many
places precipitous rocks. The falls are E. from Port Moresby, E.S.E.
from Moumili, and S.E. from Vetura proper. They are grand, and well
worth seeing. I wish we had seen them from below. For a long distance
up there are small falls and rapids. The water comes surging on, and
then takes a fearful leap of many hundred feet on to a ledge, and from
there to the boiling cauldron below. The noise is deafening. Where we
stood, nearly level with the water, it was 1340 feet above sea-level, and
I do not think that from there to the cauldron could be less than 900
feet. I think it may be possible to get to them from the north side by
Mangara, and then we can rightly tell the height of the falls.
5_th_.--Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and had a pleasant walk for
three hours, ascending gradually the Astrolabe until we reached the
summit at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high. We were resting before
descending, when a native party appeared and approached us, somewhat
scared. They said on coming up they heard the noise as of chopping wood
(we were marking trees). They came on, and saw through the bush a white
man, and at once went back; then, hearing as if natives were with him
speaking in Koiari, they returned and determined to meet. They were much
pleased at receiving a present of salt. We descended on the west side of
the Astrolabe; the descent, being steep and difficult, took us some time.
In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near to Efari, at the back of
Pyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north. Our friend Lohiamalaka, the
chief of Geminumu Monito, and three youths are with us. I have never met
a kinder and more friendly native than Lohiamalaka. Janara is a good
large district, and seems to have a number of natives. The village we
are in is 600 feet above sea-level. Tupuselei is the nearest mission
station, and a teacher placed here or at Efari would have constant
communication with that place. I was the first to enter the village.
They had heard us cooeying to one another; so only saw one man, and he
tried to look very unconcerned, with a bamboo pipe, trying to light it,
but too excited to succeed. The women had shut themselves indoors with
the children, and the men had gone into the bush close by with their
weapons.
6_th_.--From Janara to Epakari there are several steep ridges to go up
and down, and the last ascent is truly steep. It took us three good
steady hours' walking and climbing to get to Karikatana, the first of six
villages in this district. Dawes and Stone were at a village, I believe,
on a ridge nearer to Port Moresby. The chief, Nikanivaipua, received us
graciously, and insisted on our taking his house. We paid off our
friends, and they departed well pleased. We received presents of cooked
food and smoked wallaby. They were prepared for us, having been shouted
to an hour before we arrived at the village by our friend Lohiamalaka.
The village looks to be in a fine healthy position, close to the west end
of the Astrolabe, the high bluff bearing N.E. They have plenty of all
kinds of food. We crossed from the Janara, a good-sized mountain torrent
flowing S.W. to Bootless Inlet. We are 700 feet high. High bluff of
Astrolabe, N.E.; Bootless Inlet, S.S.W.; peak of Astrolabe above Kaili,
E.S.E.
7_th_.--Our friend Lohiamalaka turned up again last evening; he did not
like leaving us. This morning he really set off, promising to visit us
at Port Moresby in October; that is, not this moon, nor the next, but the
one that follows. I asked for a little ginger to eat, and they have
brought it me in bundles. It is really good when green, with salt. A
large number of natives attended our service, and were truly orderly--not
a whisper, and during prayer every head bent. On the Astrolabe, the
other day, Lohiamalaka said he felt anxious for us in entering Janara.
Rua, through Kena, told him not to fear anything on our account, as the
Great Spirit was with us, and no harm could come near us. Last evening,
he was telling the people here of his fears, and what Rua said, "and how
true it was the Great Spirit or something is with them." At all the
villages Lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of what he had been
told, and of our singing and praying. Every evening he would sit at the
tent door and get us to sing for the benefit of a crowd of natives
outside, who, having heard from himself of our musical powers, refused to
go to their homes at sunset, and insisted on remaining until after _noko_
(singing). When the Koiari visit the coast they go in for begging
largely, and they generally get what they ask, as the Motu people are
very much afraid of their spiritual power, they being thought to hold
power over the sun, wind, and rain, and manufacturing or withholding the
latter at will. When the Motu people hear that Koiarians are coming,
they hide their valuables. All the young swells here have head-dresses
of dogs' teeth, got from the seaside natives. At Eikiri, they told us
they got theirs by killing and stealing. We can truly say we are under
arms in this house--sixty-two spears overhead, four shields on walls, and
two stone clubs keeping watch at the door. A Makipili woman has been
telling Kena how she happens to be here. Formerly her people and these
were at enmity. Makipili sought peace, but had no pig. She was selected
to supply want of pig, and taken with food. When she grew up, the old
man (not her husband) insisted on her living with him.
8_th_.--We had six hours' good walking, and are now encamped under the
shade of Vetura. The country from Epakari to here is very ridgy, and,
after leaving the ridges of Epakari, very barren. Coming suddenly on a
large party of men, women, and children returning from a dance, they were
so frightened when we called out, _Naimo_! that they set off, kits,
spears, and drums, and no fine words would bring them back. We have
seven natives with us; the old chief says he must see us safe to
Keninumu. We passed a fine village--Umiakurape--on a ridge west of
Karikatana; the chiefs name is Vaniakoeta. It would make a splendid
station. The high ridge at the back of Epakari, along which we came, is
1000 feet high, and from it we saw Fisherman's Island, Redscar Bay,
Bootless Inlet, and the whole coast east to Round Head.
9_th_.--Arrived at Keninumu at half-past ten a.m. Found all well. The
natives are constantly on the look-out for the Tabori attack on
Munikahila. We hear the Munikahila natives have been stealing from
Goldie.
14_th_.--Since our return we have been house-building, but are getting on
very slowly. I fear we are six weeks too late for the Kupele district,
and shall have to leave it for another season. It would be awkward to
get in and not get back until the end of the wet season. I find our
friend the chief, Poroko, has had two wives; one he killed lately. She
was in the plantation, and some young fellows coming along, she sat down
with them to have a smoke and get the news; Poroko heard of it, and on
her coming home in the evening he killed her. A woman at Favelle said,
"Oh, the Koiari man thinks nothing of killing his wife." The word for
"sneeze" in Koiari is _akiso_. When they are leaving for a journey or
going for the night they call out _kiso_, and often from their houses
they shout their good-night to us, _kiso_. There is a woman in deep
mourning for her daughter. She has hanging round her neck all the
ornaments once the property of the deceased, and along with them the
jawbone. The headless body she visits occasionally, and rubs herself all
over with the juice from it!
18_th_.--We have a great crowd of natives in from Kupele, the nearest
district to Mount Owen Stanley. They are the same race of people as at
Meroka--some very dark, others very light-coloured. Their weapons are
the same as the Koiari, as also is their dress. Two men are in mourning,
and are wearing netted vests. The chief is rather a fine-looking fellow,
and dressed profusely with cassowary feathers. They all have a wisp of
grass bound tight at one end, and hanging from a girdle behind, to be
used as a seat when they sit down. It is a stretch of imagination to say
it looks like a tail. They are very anxious we should accompany them on
their return, and say they will show us plenty of villages and people.
Yesterday we had great feasting in the villages on yams and taro. To an
Eastern Polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast, seeing
there was no pig. In the evening we had a good deal of palavering with
spears and shields, fighting an imaginary foe, and at times retreating.
Their movements are swift and graceful: advance, retreat, advance,
pursue, ward off to the right, to the left, shield up, down, aside,
struck on knee, a shout, all gone through, with the greatest alacrity,
and I am not at all astonished at so few being killed or wounded in a
fight. They value shields that bear the marks of spears.
19_th_.--Our old friend Oriope came in to-day, and handed us the
tomahawk, stolen by the deserter on our last trip. He says when he heard
how Someri had served us he sent at once to Sogeri, and got the tomahawk,
telling them it was very wrong to steal from such dear friends of his.
One of the Kupele natives stole a knife, but he had to give it up to the
Keninumu friends, who returned it to us. I should have liked to have
started a station at Chokinumu, so as to try the climate of both sides of
the district this wet season.
23_rd_.--We find it impossible to get the men to help us with the house
whilst so many of us are here, so we return to the port, hoping to get
into Chokinumu soon. The people, seeing that we are really going, have
begged hard for Jakoba to be left, and they promise faithfully to assist
him in finishing the house. Jakoba being anxious to remain with them, I
consented.
24_th_.--Arrived at Moumiri about two p.m. We heard there that Tabori
and Makipili have been murdering. A number of people from Marivaenumu
were here wallaby-hunting, and on returning were met; three women and two
men were killed. They report here, also, that Kupele proper (a small
village) no longer exists; the Koiari to the west of us having gone over
and killed all but five, who have gone to another village.
26_th_.--Returned to Port Moresby to-day, and found all well, and good
news from all the stations. The services have gone on here in Rua's
absence with great success. On two Sundays the chief Poi conducted the
services, addressing those present, and telling them he thought that now
it was time for them all to receive the Gospel which had been so
faithfully taught them during these years; in prayer he remembered us who
were inland, and asked our Father in heaven to watch over us and bring us
back safely, and to enlighten all of them at the seaside.