covered with a carpeting of verdure and flowers. This enchanting
spectacle induced us to hasten our departure. The night before, we
deposited at the curate Moussi’s a part of our goods, in order not to
awaken either curiosity or cupidity. Naufal wished to return to Homs,
and M. Lascaris dismissed him with a liberal recompense; and the next
day, having hired some moukres, with their camels, we took leave of the
people of Corietain, and having provided water and provisions for two
days, we departed betimes, carrying a letter of recommendation from
Sheik Selim to the Sheik of Palmyra, whose name was Ragial el Orouk.
After a ten hours’ march, always towards the east, we stopped at a
square tower, extremely lofty and of massive construction, called
Casser el Ourdaan, on the territory El Dawh. This tower, built in the
time of the Greek empire, served for an advanced post against the
Persians, who came to carry off the inhabitants of the country. This
bulwark of the desert has preserved its name till these times. After
having admired its architecture, which belongs to a good period, we
returned to pass the night at our little khan, where we suffered much
from the cold. In the morning, as we were preparing to depart, M.
Lascaris, not yet accustomed to the movements of camels, mounted his
without care; which rising suddenly, threw him down. We ran to him: his
leg appeared to be dislocated; but, as he would not be detained, after
having done what we could, we replaced him on his seat, and continued
our route. We proceeded for two hours, when we observed at a distance
a cloud of dust approaching us, and soon were able to distinguish six
armed horsemen. Hardly had Hassan perceived them, when he threw off his
cloak, took his lance and ran to meet them, crying out to us not to go
forward. Having come up to them, he told them that we were merchants
going to Palmyra, and that he had engaged before Sheik Selim and all
his village to conduct us thither in safety. But these Bedouins, of
the tribe El Hassnnée, without listening to him, came up to us: Hassan
threw himself forward to stop the road; they attempted to drive him
back, and a battle began. Our defender was known for his valour, but
his opponents were equally brave. He sustained the attack for half an
hour, and at length, wounded by a lance which pierced his thigh, he
retired towards us, and soon fell from his horse. The Bedouins were
beginning to plunder us, when Hassan, extended on the ground, the blood
flowing from his wound, apostrophised them in these terms:--
“What are you about, my friends?--will you then violate the laws of
Arabs, the usages of the Bedouins? They whom you are plundering are my
brethren--they have my word; I am responsible for all that may befall
them, and you are robbing them!--is this according to honour?”
“Why,” said they, “did you undertake to convey Christians to Palmyra?
Know you not that Mehanna el Fadel (the sheik of their tribe) is chief
of the country? Why did you not ask his permission?”
“I know,” replied Hassan; “but these merchants were in haste; Mehanna
is far from this. I have pledged my word--they believed me; they know
our laws and our usages, which never change. Is it worthy of you to
violate them, by despoiling these strangers, and leaving me wounded in
this manner?”
At these words the Bedouins, ceasing their violence, answered, “All
that you say is true and just; and as it is so, we will take from thy
protégés only what they choose to give us.”
We made all haste to offer them two machlas, a cloak, and a hundred
piastres. They were satisfied, and left us to pursue our route. Hassan
suffered a great deal from his wound; and as he could not remount his
horse, I gave him my camel, and took his mare. We proceeded for four
hours; but the sun being set, we were obliged to halt at a place called
Waddi el Nahr (Valley of the River.) However, there was not a drop of
water in it, and our skins were empty: the attack in the morning had
detained us three hours, and it was impossible to go further that
night.
Notwithstanding all we had to suffer, we were still very happy at
having escaped the Bedouins, and preserved our clothes, which secured
us a little from the cold wind, that affected us sensibly. In short,
between pleasure and pain, we watched with impatience for the dawn of
day. Sheik Ibrahim suffered from his foot, and Hassan from his wound.
In the morning, having disposed of our sick in the best manner we
could, we again set forward, and still towards the east. At an hour and
a quarter from Palmyra we found a subterraneous stream, the spring of
which is entirely unknown, as well as the place where it is lost. The
water is seen to flow through openings of about five feet, forming a
sort of basins. It is unnecessary to say with what delight we quenched
our thirst:--the water appeared excellent.
At the entrance of a pass formed by the junction of two mountains, we
at length perceived the celebrated Palmyra. This defile forms for a
quarter of an hour an avenue to the city; along the mountain on the
south side extends for almost three hours a very ancient rampart.
Facing you to the left is an old castle, built by the Turks after the
invention of gunpowder. It is called Co Lat Ebn Maâen.--This Ebn Maâen,
a governor of Damascus in the time of the Khalifs, had built the castle
to prevent the Persians from penetrating into Syria.--We next arrived
at a vast space, called Waddi el Cabour (Valley of the Tombs.) The
sepulchres that cover it appear at a distance like towers. On coming
near, we saw that niches had been cut in them to enclose the dead.
Every niche is shut up by a stone, on which is carved a portrait of its
occupant. The towers have three or four stories, communicating by means
of a staircase, commonly in good preservation. From thence we came
into a vast enclosure inhabited by the Arabs, who call it the Castle.
It contains, in fact, the ruins of the Temple of the Sun. Two hundred
families reside in these ruins. We immediately presented ourselves
to Sheik Ragial el Orouk, a venerable old man, who received us well,
and made us sup and sleep with him. This sheik, like the sheik of
Corietain, furnishes two hundred camels to the great caravan of Mecca.
The following day, having hired a house, we unpacked our goods. I
attended to the foot of Sheik Ibrahim, which was in reality dislocated.
He had long to suffer the pain. Hassan found friends at Palmyra who
took care of him; and being soon recovered, he came to take leave of
us, and went away delighted with the manner in which we recompensed him.
Being obliged to keep at home for several days on account of Sheik
Ibrahim’s foot, we set about selling some articles, to confirm our
mercantile character. But as soon as M. Lascaris was in a fit state to
walk, we went to visit the temple in all its minutiæ. Other travellers
have described the ruins: therefore we will only speak of what may have
escaped their observation relating to the country.
We one day saw many people engaged in surrounding with wood a
beautiful granite column. We were told it was to burn it, or rather
to cause it to fall, in order to obtain the lead which was in the
joinings. Sheik Ibrahim, full of indignation, addressing me, exclaimed,
“What would the founders of Palmyra say if they beheld these barbarians
thus destroying their work? Since chance has brought me hither, I
will oppose this act of Vandalism.” And having learned what might be
the worth of the lead, he gave the fifty piastres they asked, and the
column became our property. It was of the most beautiful red granite,
spotted with blue and black, sixty-two feet in length, and ten in
circumference. The Palmyrians, perceiving our taste for monuments,
pointed out to us a curious spot, an hour and a half distant, in which
the columns were formerly cut, and where there are still some beautiful
fragments. For ten piastres three Arabs agreed to take us there. The
road is strewed with very beautiful ruins, described, I presume, by
other travellers. We observed a grotto, in which was a beautiful white
marble column cut and chiselled, and another only half finished. One
might say that Time, the destroyer of so much magnificence, was wanting
to place up the first, and to finish the second.
After having been into several grottoes, and visited the neighbourhood,
we came back by another road. Our guides pointed out a beautiful
spring, covered with blocks of stone. It is called Ain Ournus. The name
struck Sheik Ibrahim. At last, calling me, he said: “I have discovered
what this name Ournus means. Aurelianus, the Roman emperor, came to
besiege Palmyra and take possession of its riches. It is he probably
who dug this well for the wants of his army during the siege, and the
spring may have taken his name, changed by the lapse of time into
Ournus.” According to my feeble knowledge of history, Sheik Ibrahim’s
conjecture is not without foundation.
The inhabitants of Palmyra are but little occupied about agriculture.
Their chief employment is the working of a salt-mine, the produce of
which they send to Damascus and Homs. They also make a great deal of
Soda. The plant that furnishes it is very abundant: it is burnt, and
the ashes are also sent to those towns to make soap. They are even
sent sometimes as far as Tripoli in Syria, where there are many soap
manufactories, and which supply the Archipelago.
We were one day informed of a very curious grotto; but the entrance
to it, being dark and narrow, was hardly practicable. It was three
hours from Palmyra. We felt a wish to see it; but my adventure with
Hessaisoun was too recent to commit ourselves without a strong escort:
therefore we begged Sheik Ragial to furnish us with trusty people.
Astonished at our project, “You are very curious,” said he: “what does
the grotto signify to you? Instead of attending to your business, you
pass your time in this trifling. Never did I see such merchants as
you.”--“Man always profits,” said I, “by seeing all the beauties that
nature has created.” The sheik having given us six men well armed, I
provided myself with a ball of thread, a large nail, and torches, and
we set out very early in the morning. After two hours’ march we reached
the foot of a mountain. A great hole that they showed us formed the
entrance of the grotto. I stuck my nail into a place out of sight, and
holding the ball in my hand, followed Sheik Ibrahim and the guides who
carried the torches. We went on, sometimes to the right, sometimes to
the left, then up and then down; in short, the grotto is large enough
to accommodate an entire army. We found a good deal of alum. The vault
and the sides of the rock were covered with sulphur, and the bottom
with nitre. We remarked a species of red earth, very fine, of an acid
taste. Sheik Ibrahim put a handful into his handkerchief. The grotto is
full of cavities cut out with a chisel, whence metals were anciently
taken. Our guides told us of many persons who had lost themselves in
it and perished. A man had remained there two days in vain looking for
the outlet, when he saw a wolf: he threw stones at him; and having put
him to flight, followed him, and so found the opening. My length of
cord being exhausted, we would not go further, but retraced our steps.
The charm of curiosity had, without doubt, smoothed the way, for we had
infinite difficulty in gaining the outlet.
As soon as we were out, we hastened our breakfast, and took the road to
Palmyra. The sheik, who was expecting us, asked us what we had gained
by the journey. “We have learned,” said I, “that the ancients were more
skilful than we; for it may be seen by their works that they could go
in and out with ease, whilst we had great difficulty in extricating
ourselves.”
He set up a laugh, and we quitted him to go and rest ourselves. At
night Sheik Ibrahim found the handkerchief, in which he had put the red
earth, all in holes and rotten. The earth had fallen into his pocket.
He put it into a bottle,[B] and told me that probably the ancients had
obtained gold from this grotto. Chemical experience proves that where
there is sulphur there is often gold; and besides, the great works we
had remarked could not have been made merely to extract sulphur and
alum, but evidently something more precious. If the Arabs had suspected
that we were going to search for gold, our lives would not have been
safe.
From day to day we heard of the approach of the Bedouins, and Sheik
Ibrahim was as rejoiced as if he was about to see his countrymen.
He was enchanted when I announced to him the arrival of the great
Bedouin prince, Mehanna el Fadel. He wished immediately to go to meet
him: but I represented to him, that it would be more prudent to wait
a favourable opportunity of seeing some one of the emir’s (prince’s)
family. I knew that, ordinarily, Mehanna sent a messenger to the Sheik
of Palmyra to announce to him his approach. In fact, I witnessed the
arrival one day of eleven Bedouin horsemen, and learned that the Emir
Nasser was amongst them, the eldest son of Mehanna. I ran to carry
the intelligence to Sheik Ibrahim, who seemed at the height of joy.
Immediately we went to Sheik Ragial, to present us to the Emir Nasser,
who gave us a kind reception. “These strangers,” said Ragial to him,
“are honest merchants, who have goods to sell useful to the Bedouins;
but they have so frightened them, that they dare not venture into the
desert unless you will grant them your protection.”
The emir, turning towards us, said:--“Hope for all sorts of prosperity:
you shall be welcome; and I promise you that nothing shall befall you
but the rain which descends from heaven.” We offered him many thanks,
saying, “Since we have had the advantage of making your acquaintance,
and you will be our protector, you will do us the honour of eating with
us?”
The Arabs in general, and above all the Bedouins, regard it as an
inviolable pledge of fidelity to have eaten with any one--even to have
broken bread with him. We therefore invited him, with all his suite,
as well as the sheik. We killed a sheep, and the dinner, dressed in
the manner of the Bedouins, appeared to them excellent. At dessert we
offered them figs, raisins, almonds, and nuts, which was a great treat
to them. After coffee, when we began to speak of different things, we
related to Nasser our adventure with the six horsemen of his tribe. He
wished to punish them and restore our money. We earnestly conjured him
not to do so, assuring him we attached no value to what we had given.
We would have departed with him the next day, but he induced us to
await the arrival of his father, who was at eight days’ distance. He
promised to send us an escort, and camels to carry our merchandise.
For a greater security, we begged him to write by his father, which he
engaged to do.
The second day after, there arrived at Palmyra a Bedouin of the tribe
El Hassnnée, named Bani; and some hours after, seven others of the
tribe El Daffir, with which that of Hassnnée is at war. These having
learned that there was one of their enemies in the city, resolved to
wait for him out of the town to kill him. Bani having been told this,
came to us, tied his mare to our door, and begged us to lend him a
felt. We had several which wrapped our merchandise; I brought him one.
He put it to soak in water for half an hour, and then placed it, wet as
it was, on his mare’s back, underneath the saddle. Two hours afterwards
she had a strong diarrhœa, which lasted all the evening, and the next
day seemed to have nothing in her body. Bani then took off the felt,
which he returned, well girthed his seat, and departed.
About four hours after noon we saw the Bedouins of the tribe El Daffir
return without booty. Some one having asked them what they had done
with the mare of Bani, “This,” said they, “is what has happened to us.
Not wishing to commit an insult towards Ragial, a tributary of Mehanna,
we abstained from attacking our enemy in the city. We might have waited
for him in a narrow pass; but we were seven to one: we therefore
resolved to wait for him in the open plain. Having perceived him, we
ran upon him; but as soon as he was in the midst of us, he uttered a
loud cry, saying to his horse, ‘_Jah Hamra!_--It is now thy turn,’--and
he flew off like lightning. We followed him to his tribe without being
able to catch him, astonished at the swiftness of his mare, which
seemed like a bird cleaving the air with its wings.” I then told them
the history of the felt, which caused them much wonder, having, said
they, no idea of such sorcery.
Eight days after, three men came to us from Mehanna el Fadel: they came
to us with the camels, and put into our hands a letter from himself;
these are the contents:--
“Mehanna el Fadel, the son of Melkhgem, to Sheik Ibrahim and Abdalla el
Katib, greeting. May the mercy of God be upon you! On the arrival of
our son Nasser, we were informed of the desire you have to visit us.
Be welcome! you will shed blessing upon us. Fear nothing; you have the
protection of God, and the word of Mehanna; nothing shall touch you but
the rain of heaven! Signed, MEHANNA EL FADEL.”
A seal was appended by the side of the signature. The letter gave great
pleasure to Sheik Ibrahim: our preparations were soon made, and early
the next morning we were out of Palmyra. Being arrived at a village
watered by an abundant spring, we filled our skins for the rest of the
route. This village, called Arak, is four hours from Palmyra. We met a
great number of Bedouins, who, after having questioned our conductors,
continued their road. After a march of ten hours, the plain appeared
covered with fifteen hundred tents: it was the tribe of Mehanna. We
entered into the tent of the emir, who ordered us coffee at three
different intervals; which, amongst the Bedouins, is the greatest proof
of consideration. After the third cup, supper was served, which we were
obliged to eat _a la Turque_: it was the first time this had occurred,
so that we burnt our fingers. Mehanna perceived it.
“You are not accustomed,” said he, “to eat as we do.”--“It is true,”
replied Sheik Ibrahim; “but why do you not make use of spoons? it is
always possible to procure them, if only of wood.”--“We are Bedouins,”
replied the emir, “and we keep to the customs of our ancestors, which,
besides, we consider well founded. The hand and the mouth are the parts
of the body that God has given us to aid each other. Why then make use
of a strange thing, whether of wood or of metal, to reach the mouth,
when the hand is naturally made for that purpose?” We were obliged to
approve these reasons, and I remarked to Sheik Ibrahim that Mehanna was
the first Bedouin philosopher that we had encountered.
The next day the emir had a camel killed to regale us, and I learned
that that was a high mark of consideration, the Bedouins measuring the
importance of the stranger by the animal they kill to welcome him. They
begin with a lamb, and finish with a camel. This was the first time we
had eaten the flesh of this animal, and we thought it rather insipid.
The Emir Mehanna was a man of eighty years of age, little, thin, deaf,
and very ill-clothed. His great influence among the Bedouins arises
from his noble and generous heart, and from being the chief of a very
ancient and numerous family. He is entrusted by the Pacha of Damascus
with the escort of the grand caravan to Mecca, for twenty-five purses
(twelve thousand five hundred piastres,) which are paid him before
their departure from Damascus. He has three sons, Nasser, Faress, and
Hamed, all married, and inhabiting the same tent as their father.
This tent is seventy-two feet long, and as many wide; it is of black
horsehair, and divided into three partitions. In the further one is
kept the provisions, and there the cookery is performed; the slaves,
too, sleep there. The middle is kept for the women, and all the family
retire to it at night. The fore part is occupied by the men: in this
strangers are received: this part is called Rabha.
After three days devoted to enjoying their hospitality, we opened our
bales, and sold many articles, upon most of which we lost more or
less. I did not understand this mode of dealing, and said so to Sheik
Ibrahim. “Have you then forgot our conditions?” said he. I excused
myself, and continued to sell according to his pleasure.
One day we saw arrive fifty well-mounted horsemen, who, having stopped
before the tents, dismounted and sat on the ground. The Emir Nasser,
charged with all the affairs since his father had become deaf, went to
join them, accompanied by his cousin Sheik Zamel, and held a conference
with them for two hours, after which the men remounted their horses
and departed. Sheik Ibrahim, anxious about this mysterious interview,
knew not how to ascertain the motive of it. Having already been often
with the women, I took a coral necklace, and went to Naura, the
wife of Nasser, to present it to her. She accepted it, made me sit
near her, and offered me in her turn dates and coffee. After these
reciprocal acts of politeness, I came to the object of my visit, and
said, “Excuse my importunity, I entreat you, but strangers are curious
and timid; the little merchandise we have here is the remnant of a
considerable fortune, which misfortunes have deprived us of. The Emir
Nasser was just now holding conference with strangers--that excites
our apprehension; we would know the subject.”--“I will satisfy your
curiosity,” said Naura; “but on condition that you will keep my secret,
and appear to know nothing. Know that my husband has many enemies
among the Bedouins, who hate him for humbling the national pride by
exalting the power of the Turks. The alliance of Nasser with the
Osmanlis greatly displeases the Bedouins, who hate them. It is even
contrary to the advice of his father, and the heads of the tribe, who
murmur against him. The object of this meeting was to concert a plan of
attack. To-morrow they will assail the tribe El Daffir, to take their
flocks, and do them all the mischief possible: the God of battle will
give the victory to whom he pleases: but as to you, you have nothing
to fear.” Having thanked Naura, I withdrew well satisfied with having
gained her confidence.
Sheik Ibrahim, informed by me of all the wife of Nasser had told me,
said that it caused him the greatest vexation. “I was endeavouring,”
added he, “to attach myself to a tribe hostile to the Osmanlis, and
here I am with a chief allied to them.” I did not dare ask the meaning
of these words, but they served to set me thinking.
About sunset three hundred horsemen assembled beyond the encampment,
and marched early in the morning, having at their head Nasser, Hamed,
and Zamel. Three days afterwards a messenger came to announce their
return. A great number of men and women went out to meet them; and when
they had reached them, they sent up on both sides loud shouts of joy,
and in this manner made their triumphal entry into the camp, preceded
by a hundred and eighty camels, taken from the enemy. As soon as they
had alighted, we begged them to recount their exploit.
“The day after our departure,” said Nasser, “having arrived about noon
at the place where the shepherds feed the flocks of Daffir, we fell
upon them, and carried off a hundred and eighty camels: however, the
shepherds having fled, gave the alarm to their tribe. I then detached
a part of my troops to conduct our booty to the camp by another road.
Aruad-Ebn-Motlac, the chief of the tribe El Daffir, coming to attack
us with three hundred horsemen, the battle lasted two hours, and night
alone separated us. Every one then returned to his tribe, the enemy
having lost one of his men, and we having two men wounded.”
The tribe of Nasser feigned a participation in his triumph, whereas in
reality they were very dissatisfied with an unjust war against their
natural friends, to please the Osmanlis. Nasser, having visited all the
chiefs, to recount his success, came to Sheik Ibrahim and addressed him
in Turkish; Sheik Ibrahim having observed to him that he spoke only
Greek, his native tongue, and a little Arabic, Nasser began to extol
the language and customs of the Turks, saying it was not possible to be
truly great, powerful, and respected, without being on a good footing
with them. “As for me,” added he, “I am more Osmanli than Bedouin.”
“Trust not the promises of the Turks,” replied Sheik Ibrahim, “any more
than their greatness and magnificence: they favour you that they may
gain you over, and injure you with your countrymen, in order to employ
you to fight against the other tribes. The interest of the Turkish
government is to destroy the Bedouins: not strong enough to effect this
themselves, they wish to arm you against each other. Take care that you
have not some day cause to repent. I give you this advice as a friend
who takes a lively interest in you, and because I have eaten your bread
and partaken of your hospitality.”