CHAPTER VI.--THE CHARM DISSOLVED.

Next day Eliza set out, accompanied only by her maid. No one, to

see her, would have fancied she was not yet one year a wife.

In the sweet quiet spot to which she went her illness passed away;

but she was weaker than before, and her health precarious. Her

spirits too sank daily, and the rich glow of her cheek, dimmer

during the last few months than it used to be, faded more and more.

The sparkling smile of other days, or the discontented pout which

had always betrayed any little 'temper,' never dwelt on her lips

now. A softened subdued shade settled on her countenance. In her

sadness and loneliness, forsaken by him to whom she would still

have clung even when love was gone, she turned, in her sorrow,

to thoughts which had never occupied her before, to religion, the

one source of consolation that remains to the disappointed and

unfortunate; fortunate if they can embrace it, and find peace and

full satisfaction somewhere at last.

In a peaceful nook, embosomed among a grove of beech-trees, there

was a lonely little chapel. Thither Eliza went every evening,

and kneeling among the few quiet worshippers, lifted her eyes to

the sculptured form above the altar, whose mild angelic face and

outstretched arms seemed to speak of pity and sympathy with human

woe.

One evening she lingered till dusk began to gather in the quaint

old place. It was now again the eve of All-Hallows, and her

thoughts reverted to the past and all that had happened during

one short year. Looking up at last, she found that the others had

gone and she was alone. The pale spectral rays of a rising moon,

broken and intercepted by the fluttering trees without, stole in

at the windows and crept with a kind of stealthy motion across the

floor. The silence was tomb-like. It smote on Eliza's heart. Part

of the chapel, where the moonbeams did not pierce, was veiled in

gloom, and in the darkness the draperies about the altar seemed to

stir and take strange form. Indistinct masses, which looked as if

they might at any moment become endowed with animation, filled the

corners. Eliza could almost fancy that the dim dead who slept in

the vaults beneath were rising round her. She turned to leave the

place, and then perceived that she was _not_ alone.

A female figure knelt at a little distance, the face buried in the

hands. As Eliza moved down the aisle it rose slowly and turned

round. With a low shuddering cry she sprang back, and almost sank

to the ground. She gasped for breath. She tried to speak, but for

some moments in vain. At last, in a loud cry, her voice broke

forth: 'In the name of the blessed God and by this holy sign!'

(crossing herself rapidly), 'speak! Who and what are you, that

twice before have crossed my path? In the lonely field; in the

crowded theatre, suddenly changing from an aspect of light and

beauty to a ghastly corpse-like image; and now again!'

The figure approached a few steps, the lips moved, but no sound

came. Eliza shrank back to the wall, pressing against it as if

she would force herself through the stone. A low sigh sounded, a

faint tremulous voice spoke: 'Twice before have _you_ started up to

bewilder and affright me: in the lonely field, when the night-wind

was sighing; in the gay assemblage; and here again, the third time.

Who and what are _you_, let _me_ ask?'

Eliza rose. 'One who is lonely and unhappy,' she answered; 'who,

having deserted others, is herself left alone now. If you would

know my name, it is Eliza Crofton.'

There was a pause, then in low, awestruck tones, the last word was

repeated: 'Crofton! And I am Ellen Courtney.'

'And we meet thus, for the first time knowing each other, though I

have often heard your name, and you mine! Did you too, then, go to

the Twelfth Rig last Hallow-eve night?'

'Listen, and I will tell you. He did not come home that

evening--he, I mean, who is now your husband. There was company

at the house, and he was expected. There was dancing and music,

but I could not join in it. I stole away to my own room, and

afterwards wandered out into the fields. I had heard of the charm

of the Twelfth Rig, but it was not with any settled intention of

trying it that I went out. When I got to the field, overcome with

sorrow and weariness, for I had walked a long distance, I sank

down; and thinking that nothing stirred in that lonely spot but

the night-wind, gave loose to the grief and despair that filled my

heart. When at last I rose up, I saw a figure wrapped in a cloak

standing motionless in the centre of one of the ridges, pale, with

wild eyes, and black dishevelled hair. As I gazed, it uttered a

dreadful scream, and turning, fled. I had heard stories of the

banshee, and I thought this must be it, or some spirit of doom,

that had appeared to warn me of my approaching death. I believe I

sank down again on the ground. My senses seemed to leave me. I know

not what I did, but I heard a voice crying "Doomed, doomed!" and I

think it was myself that uttered the words.'

'I heard it,' said Eliza. 'It pursued me as I fled, repeated, I

suppose, by the mountain echoes. Ah! how it has haunted me. I

tried to crush back the thought; but it was there still, though

I wouldn't face it, and I felt in my heart that my days were

numbered. Has the clearing up come too late? I have suffered so

much, I scarcely feel fit for life now.'

'It comes too late for _me_. Though it was no spirit that stood in

the midst of the Twelfth Rig, the charm will work still. I was ill

after that night, very ill, else we might have met before you left,

and recognised each other. Then came the shock that tore up by the

roots the last hopes that lingered in my heart. You know to what I

allude. I may speak of it now with calmness, standing as I do on

the brink of the grave.--Why do you look so shocked? Have you never

heard that Ellen Courtney was dying--dying of a broken heart?'

'No, no! I never heard it, never dreamt of it. O heaven!'--wringing

her hands, and raising them above her head, with a despairing

gesture--'then I am a murderess! The punishment has descended in

full force now. A curse could not but attend my marriage. Did not

friends warn me again and again? and yet I persisted--persisted,

though faith had to be broken on both sides, a heart cast aside,

and trampled on. It was an unholy marriage, and the blessing of

heaven could not sanctify it. It was that which made my husband

cease to love me, shrivelled up my own heart, and made everything

become valueless in my eyes. I was content to suffer myself; it was

only reaping what I had sowed. But that _you_ should suffer--suffer

and die; you, who never injured any one, who must be gentle and

good as an angel. But oh!' she pursued, dropping on her knees, and

raising her dark eyes pleadingly, as sinner might to saint, 'remove

the curse before you die--if heaven so wills--before _I_ die, as

perhaps I shall, and give me back my husband's love, the only thing

that remains to me now.' The last words were uttered in a piteous

moan.

'Do not speak so wildly,' entreated Ellen, sitting down on one of

the seats, and raising her hand (Eliza marked its transparency) to

her damp white forehead. 'You are not so much to blame. Life and

happiness could never have been mine, even had you not intervened.

If he ceased to love me, as he must have done soon, for he never

loved me truly, I could not have borne it. My heart would have

broke, and I should have died all the same. You have my forgiveness

fully and entirely--and he has too. Do not fret yourself for the

lover you forsook. His wound is healed. He has found happiness with

one who long loved him in secret. This was the appointed day for

his marriage with your cousin, Mary Conlan.'

Eliza started, and the blood rushed to her face. He then had

forgotten her; and the thought sent a bitter pang through her

heart; yet she thanked heaven that it was so.

'Part of the weight is lifted from my soul,' she said. 'And I have

your forgiveness too. Lay your hand on my head, and say again that

you forgive me, and breathe a blessing on me.'

The shadowy white hand was raised. It lay like a spotless lily,

emblem of heaven's pity and forgiveness, on the dark bowed head.

'I forgive you from my heart. If my earnest wishes can make you

happy, be so.--Now I must go.' She rose, but tottered as she

attempted to walk.

'You are weak,' exclaimed Eliza. 'Let me go with you.'

'No, no; there is no need. I have not far to go.'

'But still, let me walk with you, and lean on me. I shall think you

cannot bear my presence near you, if you refuse.'

'Be it so then.'

They left the chapel together. Not a word was spoken as they walked

slowly on till Ellen paused before the gate of a villa.

'Good-bye, Eliza. We shall never meet again on earth. This third

meeting, in which each first knows the other, is the last. Even if

I lived, we could not be friends, our paths should lie far asunder;

though your words, and still more your looks, tell me how it is

with you, that we are sisters in disappointment and misfortune. But

there'--she lifted her eyes, calm and serene, to the sky, where the

moon, now fully risen, gleamed fair and radiant--'there we may meet

and be friends for ever. Farewell, Eliza.'

Overcome with emotion, Eliza cast herself, weeping, on the other's

breast. For a few moments they mingled their tears together.

'Farewell, Eliza;' 'Farewell, Ellen.' A faint breeze swept through

the beechen wood. It came wandering by them, and seemed to murmur

in unknown tongue some sentence or benediction over their heads.

There was silence. Eliza felt her companion lean heavily on her.

She grew alarmed. At last she said: 'It is not well for you to

linger in the night-air. Will you not go into the house now?'

Ellen replied not. Heavier and heavier she leant, with a helpless

weight that almost over-powered the other. Eliza raised the

drooping head. A white, white face, a dim fast-glazing eye, met her

gaze. It was the dead that lay on her bosom.

That night Eliza was very ill, so ill that a telegram was

despatched in haste to her husband to come at once, if he wished

to see her alive. He arrived next day, but only in time to gaze on

a sweet marble face, that changed not even in the presence of the

dread remorse that then awoke in his heart, and to clasp in his

arms a fair but lifeless child, whose tender eyes had never opened

on this world's light--whose only baptism was tears.

A few days after Hallow-eve, Daly received a black-sealed letter.

It was that which Eliza had written to him, but never sent.

So they both slept. The remains of Ellen Courtney were conveyed

to her own land; and on a dark November morning, when all nature

seemed in mourning for the young and beautiful that had passed with

the summer flowers, she was laid with her kindred, amidst streaming

eyes and voices that blessed her name--

Poor victim of love and changeless faith.

But Eliza lay in a foreign soil, where the myrtle waved above her

head, instead of her own mountain-ash--an exile even in death, from

friends and home.

LIFE IN ST KILDA.

CONCLUDING PAPER.

On the 16th August I ascended the hill called Connaghar, where all

the men had gone to catch and the women to carry home fulmars,

leaving the village deserted. The weather was very warm, and

although I carried my coat over my arm, I was fain to stop on my

way up and cool myself in the light sea-breeze. About half-way up

I saw my old friend Tormad, with his ruddy face and large white

beard, seated on the edge of the cliff, with his attention fixed

on the rope he held in his hands. 'Who is below?' I asked as I sat

down beside him. 'Neil,' he answered. 'Is he far down?' 'Far--far,'

he replied. Neil's voice could be heard calling from the abyss.

In a little a crash sounds from below. Tormad looks anxious, and

with craning head listens with deep attention; whilst two girls

who had joined us, step with their bare feet to the very verge

of the precipice and peer below. One of them, who has a light

graceful figure, looks very picturesque as she stands poised on

that stupendous cliff. She has a Turkey-red handkerchief on her

head, and wears a coarse blue gown of a quaint shape, girdled at

the waist, and only reaching to her knees. Her limbs are muscular

and browned with the sun. She is engaged to Neil, and naturally

feels anxious on his account. A shower of large stones had fallen,

any one of which would have knocked his brains out had it chanced

to hit; but fortunately a projecting crag above his head saves him.

Tormad shifts his position to where he thinks the rock is less

frangible. I leave him, and climb to where the cliffs form a lofty

head or promontory which commands a view of the face of Connaghar.

This hill rises one thousand two hundred and twenty feet above the

sea, and is a precipice almost to the summit. The bottom of this

tremendous cliff had been cleared of fulmars the previous day by

men who had ascended from boats. Now the work had to be done from

above.

It is a dreadful trade. A sound like the crack of a musket is

occasionally heard, and one sees a huge stone bound and rattle

with great leaps into the sea below. Parties of two or three men,

laden with birds on their shoulders, are seen climbing by steep and

perilous paths to the summit. From the spot where I lie basking in

the sun, a path leads downwards to a steep grassy _brae_ bounded by

a cliff. This is considered a safe road for women, and a number of

them go by it to where the men can bring them fulmars. Some of the

girls can carry about two hundred pounds' weight, and seem rather

proud of their strength; but as they toil up the dangerous path

to where I recline, I hear them breathing heavily and in apparent

distress; but in a few minutes they are all right again.

In the intervals of work a number of them sit around me and offer

me a share of their oat-cakes and cheese, and hand me the little

tub covered with raw sheepskin in which they carry milk: 'Drink,

drink! you have taken none!' A number of the men also come up the

path with coils of ropes and bundles of inflated gannets' craws

on their backs. They are all barefooted and stripped to their

underclothing. A pile of fulmars has been collected beside us, and

the men whilst they rest economise time by extracting the oil. The

receptacle for holding the oil is the stomach of a solan-goose,

which is held open by one man, while another takes a fulmar, and

squeezing the body, forces the oil in a stream from its gaping

bill. When the fulmars and oil are carried home they are equally

divided. The birds are plucked, and the feathers are sold to the

factor for six shillings a St Kilda stone of twenty-four pounds.

The flesh is pickled and used as food in winter and spring. The oil

is sold to the factor for one shilling a St Kilda pint, which is

equal to about five English pints. Over nine hundred St Kilda pints

were exported in 1875. I ought to mention that it is the young

fulmars that are caught in autumn. No art is required to capture

them, as they are unable to fly; but they offer all the resistance

in their power by spitting their oil in the faces of the men. The

oil has a disagreeable odour. The old fulmars are caught in summer

when hatching; a noose tied to the end of a rod being slipped over

their heads. About the end of August all the fulmars leave St Kilda

and take the young to sea for their education. They are absent for

about two months and a half, and return lean and worthless.

On the 1st of September I began to be slightly alarmed that I

might be detained on the island until the succeeding summer. No

vessel had called since my arrival on the 21st of June. My stock

of provisions had become exhausted, and I had to give up tea and

coffee, and subsequently bread. The people began to pluck up their

little crops, neither sickle nor scythe being used. The oatmeal

supplied by the factor being done, the islanders had to depend on

the grain grown on the island. The oats are thrashed with a flail;

are scorched in a pot or in a straw basket containing hot stones,

previous to being ground. The grain is then ground with hand-mills

by the women, who work like furies.

On the 7th the new boat went to Stack Lee for _gougan_ or young

solan-geese, and returned in the evening with a few--about forty

to each man. As at the Bass and other fowling stations, so also

here are the gougan killed by blows on the head with a stick.

The flesh of the gougan is wild and fishy in flavour; but when

baked is an article of food. Every morning when I went up the

village the usual salutation included expressions of fear that

no ship would arrive. But my anxiety about the arrival of a ship

was naturally less than theirs, for they were burning to receive

further intelligence about the boat that was supposed to have been

lost fourteen years ago. 'Is my poor wife alive? Is my mother, my

brother, my son, my father, living or dead? Was my husband saved

in some mysterious way, like Donald MacKinnon? Is he married

again? Are all the women black in Africa?' Such were the agitating

questions that passed through the minds of the people, and often

found expression. Every time I went up the hill with my glass I

would be questioned by some one on my return whether any vessel was

visible, and my answer that there was not, was shouted from one end

of the village to the other. The poor people were straitened for

oatmeal, which was anxiously expected from the factor.

On the 5th of October in the evening, whilst I was sitting alone

in a cloud of peat-smoke, gazing at nothing by the dull light of

an iron lamp, my door was suddenly thrown open, and a woman in a

state of alarm bawled out that there were strangers in the glen.

I suggested that they were probably shipwrecked sailors, whom it

would not be right to leave in the glen all night, cold, hungry,

and without shelter. This seemed to move the women; and it was

arranged that five men armed with staves should go to the top of

the hill that separates the village from the glen and shout. In an

hour or two the five men returned wet to the skin, and reported

that, although they had whistled and shouted loudly, they had got

no reply, and that they were sure there must be a mistake. But the

woman still insisted that there were strangers in the glen. Next

day a steamer was seen bearing away from the island, and it was no

doubt her fog-whistle which had created the alarm.

In October, when the nights were getting long, spinning-wheels

began to be busy in every house, making the thread which the men

afterwards wove into cloth; and I spent the evening in one or other

of the cottages, chatting with the people, and endeavouring to

improve my Gaelic, and penetrate into their unsophisticated minds.

I tried to tell them stories--such as _Blue Beard_--in which they

seemed to feel a deep interest; the women sometimes improving my

grammar, and helping me out of any difficulty. They would also tell

me _sgeulachdan_ or tales.

On the 21st October and for many days afterwards all the

inhabitants went down the cliffs to pluck grass for their cattle.

I saw the women lying on the narrow sloping ledges on the face of

the rocks. A false step, and they would have fallen into the sea,

hundreds of feet below, or been mangled on the projecting crags.

About this time I gave up all hope of getting off the island until

the following summer. My oatmeal was done, and after that I was

obliged to depend on the people for a share of theirs. But I never

wanted, although I put myself on short allowance.

On the 7th November a meeting was held in the church to return

thanks for the harvest. A sudden change occurred in the weather:

the sky became charged with thick vapour, and there was a heavy

fall of hail accompanied by thunder and lightning. On the 8th

December I went to the top of the hills, and notwithstanding my

light diet, felt remarkably well; but slipping when twenty yards

from home, I sprained my ankle, and lay for some time in torture.

I crawled into the house, and after a time succeeded in cooking

my dinner. I slept none; and next day my room was filled with

sympathising male friends and ministering angels. Some brought me

presents of potatoes and salt mutton, turf and fulmar-oil. On the

10th I held a levee, the whole people coming to see me between fore

and afternoon services. The men about this time began to weave the

thread which the women had spun. Both sexes worked from dawn of

day until an hour or two after midnight. Their industry astonished

me. I soon began to limp about in the evening; and when the nights

were dark I got a live peat stuck on the end of a stick, to let me

see the road home. At this time I made a miniature ship and put a

letter in the hold, in the hope that she might reach the mainland.

I was anxious that my friends should know that I was alive. Shortly

afterwards I made a lantern out of a piece of copper that had come

off a ship's bottom. A large limpet-shell filled with fulmar-oil

served for a lamp inside. This lantern, a clumsy affair, was

more admired than my sketches. On the 12th of January, which is

New-year's-day in St Kilda, service was held in the church; and to

celebrate the occasion, the minister preached a sermon.

On the 17th the most remarkable event occurred that had happened in

St Kilda for many years. The people had just gone to church when,

happening to look out at my door, I was startled to observe a boat

in the bay. I had been nearly seven months on the island, and had

never seen any ship or strange boat near it all that time. Robinson

Crusoe scarcely felt more surprised when he saw the foot-print on

the sand, than I did on beholding this apparition. I ran to the

shore, where there was a heavy sea rolling, and shouted to the

people in the boat; but my voice was drowned by the roar of the

waves. A woman who had followed me gave notice to the congregation,

and all poured out of the church. The St Kildans ran round the

rocks to a spot where there seemed to be less surf, and waved on

the boat to follow. I went with the others. When we arrived at the

place indicated, the islanders threw ropes from the low cliffs to

the men in the boat; but the latter declined to be drawn up, the

captain bawling 'Mooch better dere,' pointing to the shore before

the village, and putting about the boat. All ran back; but before

we got to the shore the strange boat had run through the surf.

Instantly all the men in her leaped into the sea and swam to the

land, where they were grasped by the St Kildans. In a few minutes

their boat was knocked to pieces on the rocks.

The strangers were invited into the minister's house and dry

clothes given them. They proved to be the captain and eight of the

crew of the Austrian ship _Peti Dabrovacki_, eight hundred and

eighty tons, which had left Glasgow for New York five days before.

The vessel had encountered bad weather; her ballast had shifted,

and she lay on her beam-ends about eight miles west of St Kilda.

Seven men had remained in her, and no doubt perished. The ship was

not to be seen next day. When the survivors had got their clothes

shifted, they were distributed amongst the sixteen families that

compose the community, the minister keeping the captain, and every

two families taking charge of one man, and providing him with a bed

and board and clean clothes. I myself saw one man (Tormad Gillies)

take a new jacket out of the box in which it had been carefully

packed, and give it to the mate to wear during his stay, the young

man having no coat but an oilskin. The oatmeal being done, the

islanders took the grain they had kept for seed and ground it to

feed the shipwrecked men. The hospitable conduct of the St Kildans

was all the more commendable when one considers that their guests

were all foreigners. But long before the five weeks had elapsed

during which the Austrians lived on the island, they had by their

good behaviour removed the prejudice that had prevailed against

them at first. They were polite and obliging to the women, and went

from house to house to assist in grinding the grain.

On the 28th January 1877 the wind blew violently from the

north-west with heavy showers of sleet. It was the worst day I had

seen in St Kilda. The huge waves came rolling into the bay against

the wind, which caught them as they fell on the shore and carried

them off in spin-drift. Yet many of the women went to church

barefoot.

On the 29th the captain and sailors called on me and felt

interested in seeing a canoe I had hewn out of a log. They helped

me to rig her and to put the ballast right; but we had to wait

until the wind was favourable. We put two bottles in her hold

containing letters, which we hoped would find their way to the

mainland and be posted.

This canoe carried a small sail, and was despatched on the 5th of

February, the wind being in the north-west, and continuing so for

some days. I thought she would reach Uist; but the Gulf Stream

was stronger than I calculated on, and she went to Poolewe in

Ross-shire, where she was found lying on a sandbank on the 27th by

a Mr John Mackenzie, who posted the letters. Five days previous

to the date when we launched the canoe, we sent off a life-buoy

belonging to the lost ship. I suggested that a bottle containing

a letter should be lashed to it and a small sail put up. This was

done; but no one had much hope that this circular vessel would be

of service. She was sent off on the 30th January, and strange to

relate, drifted to Birsay in Orkney, and was forwarded to Lloyd's

agent in Stromness on the 8th February, having performed the

passage in nine days. During my residence in St Kilda, several

canes that the Gulf Stream had brought from some tropical clime

were picked up by the men. One was hollow and several inches in

diameter. The St Kildans split these canes and make them into reeds

for their looms.

On 17th February the Austrian skipper offered ten pounds for a

passage to Harris in the new boat, for himself and men. The St

Kildans accepted the offer, and arranged to send seven of their

own men to bring her back. They would not allow the Austrians

to go alone, being afraid that they (the St Kildans) might be

left without a boat, and have no means of getting seed-corn and

provisions. They drew lots who were to go, and it was stipulated

that I was to be one of them. All was settled except the weather.

We were waiting for a promising day, when, on the 22d, about seven

in the morning, as I was lying in bed and thinking of getting up

to make my breakfast, I was startled by hearing the sound of a

steam-whistle. I lay back again muttering: 'It was the wind;' when

hark! the whistle is repeated. I leaped up, ran to the door, and

saw, sure enough, a steamer in the bay! Huddling on my clothes,

I rushed barefoot up the village, rattling at every door, and

shouting 'Steamer--strangers!' In a few minutes all the people

were astir and hurrying to the shore. I had just time to throw

the articles that lay handy into my trunk and to get on board

the steamer's boat, which I saw belonged to Her Majesty. Then I

discovered that I had left my purse and other property in the

house; but the surf was too great to allow me to land again. I

got on board the steamer, which I found to be the _Jackal_. 'How

did you know we were here?' I inquired of one of the officers who

stood on the quarter-deck. 'From the letter you wrote and put into

the bottle lashed to the life-buoy.' I ran to the side of the

ship muttering to myself: 'There is a Providence that shapes our

ends, rough-hew them as we will;' and bawled to the St Kildans in

the boat alongside: 'It was the life-buoy brought this steamer

here, you incredulous people;' for they had smiled, although

good-humouredly, at my efforts to send a letter home. A small

supply of biscuits and oatmeal was given to them; and waving an

adieu to my good St Kildan friends, we were speedily receding from

the island.

I found all the officers extremely friendly and agreeable, and

here beg to return my hearty thanks. I was made to feel quite at

home. The shipwrecked captain and I were accommodated in the cabin.

The Austrian sailors were well taken care of forward, and seemed

particularly delighted at again having as much tobacco as they

could use. We had been all smoking dried moss.

The wind had risen and the sea become rough; and if the _Jackal_

had been half an hour later, she would have been obliged to return

with her errand unexecuted; for it would have been impossible for a

boat to approach the shore. We reached Harris the same evening, and

anchored in the Sound all night. But as this part of the journey

has appeared in the newspapers, I need not repeat it. Suffice it

that I arrived barefoot and penniless, but in good health and

spirits, in Greenock on the 26th. Here my narrative ends.

[Many of the facts related in the foregoing narrative were

published in various newspapers in the early part of the present

year, and led to considerable discussion. Stormy seasons, as we

have seen, may set in, and communication with the proprietor or

his factor be rendered impossible; the most anxious efforts to

transmit provisions may be rendered abortive, and famine, if not

actual starvation, be the result. Various hints for the melioration

of the poor St Kildans have been thrown out, amongst others that

those isolated beings should quit the island for good, and seek a

new home in the more civilised Hebrides or elsewhere. One thing is

sufficiently obvious, if the people are to remain on the island,

they should be taught to speak and write English. Their adherence

to Gaelic condemns them to innumerable privations, above all it

excludes them from communication with the outer world, on whose

sympathy they are forced to rely. Half a century ago, Dr John

Macculloch lamented this exclusive use of Gaelic; and we echo all

he said on the subject. We have no objection to Gaelic being made a

philological study, but its continuance as a spoken language is in

all respects to be regretted.--ED.]

THE MONTH:

SCIENCE AND ARTS.

The 'season' is at its busiest: crowds of sightseers are looking

at the pictures in the Royal Academy, the Grosvenor Gallery, and

in other resorts, and painting and sculpture are everywhere talked

about; while fine art rejoices in its annual holiday, and 'art

sales' (which are too often artful) draw throngs of competing

buyers. The debates in parliament on reform of our universities

have revived the education question; and sanguine talkers who

believe that education can do everything, have had to be reminded

once more that endowments however ample cannot create genius; that

our greatest achievements in science, art, or literature have

been wrought by unendowed men, and that nature will not produce

a larger proportion of highest quality brain even though schools

be multiplied. Meanwhile the experiment for the promotion of

scientific research initiated by government has advanced a stage,

and the investigators recommended by the Council of the Royal

Society have received grants of money from the Paymaster-general

to enable them to carry on their work. As this experiment is to be

continued for five years, we may reasonably expect that it will

assist in resolving the endowment question.

The cost of the expeditions sent out by this country in 1875 to

observe the transit of Venus has been ascertained: it is forty

thousand pounds; the estimate was twenty thousand pounds. As

will be remembered, other nations engaged in the work as well as

ourselves; and we have it on the authority of the Astronomer-royal

that the total expenditure 'may amount to two hundred thousand

pounds.' This is a large sum to pay for the endeavour to solve

the problem of the earth's distance from the sun; but the problem

is one of essential importance in astronomical science, and there

is reason to hope that when all the computations are completed

the true answer will appear. Remembering as we do the eclipse

expeditions assisted by the Treasury and the Admiralty, and the

expensive and abortive Arctic expedition, we agree with the learned

functionary above referred to that 'the government has been very

liberal.'

By a method known to astronomers, observations of the planet Mars

can be made available for determining our distance from the sun.

Sir George Airy speaks of this method as 'the best of all;' and as

Mars is this year in the most favourable position for these special

observations, a private expedition is to be sent to St Helena or

to Ascension to make them. The expense will be about five hundred

pounds; and this is to be provided by gifts from scientific men,

and by a contribution from the Royal Astronomical Society.

The formation of meteorites is a question which has long been

discussed by mineralogists and physicists. Professor Tschermak,

after much study, has come to the conclusion that the active agent

in the process is volcanic. He points out that the meteorites

which fall to the earth are angular in form, that they have no

concentric structure even in their interior, that their external

crust is not an original characteristic, and that they are

evidently fragmentary. Examination of the crust has shewn that

during the later stages of flight, disruption of the meteorite

itself sometimes takes place; and it is a fact worth record, that

guided by the appearance of the crust and peculiarity of shape,

Professor Maskelyne once succeeded in reconstructing a meteorite

from fragments which had fallen miles apart.

From much evidence of this character Professor Tschermak has been

confirmed in his views. He argues that 'the finding of hydrogen in

meteoric iron is a proof that permanent gases and perhaps vapours,

which are the great agents in transmitting volcanic energy, have

played some part in the formation of meteorites; and although it

may ever be impossible to obtain direct evidence of the volcanic

activity which is supposed to have hurled these mysterious

masses of stone and metal into space, yet such evidence as the

violent gaseous upheavals on the solar surface; the action of our

terrestrial volcanoes; and the stupendous eruptive phenomena of

which the lunar craters tell the history, lend powerful support to

any theory which assumes that meteorites owe their formation to

volcanic agency.'

Professor Boyd Dawkins in giving an account to the Manchester

Geological Society of his visit to the crater of Vesuvius said: 'A

coating of yellow sulphur about three inches thick covered the lip,

and beneath this the loose gray ashes gave out aqueous vapour at

every pore, which deposited on them in some places white powdery

sulphate of lime, in others common salt, sal ammoniac, green

chloride of copper, and specular iron ore, which looked like little

pieces of shattered mirrors scattered through their substance.

It was obvious that here we had a striking proof of the mode in

which water, in passing through heated rock, can carry minerals in

solution and ultimately deposit them. In these deposits we could

easily recognise the mode in which the various metals were brought

up from deep down in the earth's crust, and deposited in holes

and crannies in the rocks which are accessible to man as mineral

veins.' In this description we seem to have an approach towards an

answer to the oft-repeated question--Where do metals come from?

Further particulars, which will be regarded as surprising, have

been published concerning the Pennsylvania oil-wells. The Delameter

well, sixteen hundred feet deep, sends forth gas at such a vehement

pressure that a plummet-line weighing sixteen hundred pounds can

be pulled out of the bore-hole by hand. The ascending speed of the

gas is seventeen hundred feet per second; the quantity amounts to

one million cubic feet per hour, or more than fourteen hundred tons

a day; and the heating power is twenty-five per cent. greater than

that of good bituminous coal. After this explanation it is easy

to understand that the well, situated in a valley surrounded by

mountains, furnishes heat and light to the whole neighbourhood.

From one of its pipes, three inches in diameter, a flame rushes,

'the noise of which shakes the hills, and is heard at a distance

of fifteen miles. For a distance of fifty feet around the earth is

burnt; but farther off, the vegetation is tropical, and enjoys a

perpetual summer.'

It is known to chemists that turpentine when oxidised in a

current of air in presence of water, yields peroxide of hydrogen,

camphoric acid, acetic acid, camphor, and certain other less

defined substances. The progress of the oxidation is an interesting

study, and the solution produced is found to have great power

as an antiseptic and disinfectant. White of egg, milk, and beer

treated therewith are kept fresh for some time. 'From a series

of experiments undertaken with the view of ascertaining to which

constituents of the solution the antiseptic and disinfecting

property is to be ascribed, the power was found to be distributed

between the peroxide of hydrogen and camphoric acid; but the former

of these is able to evolve large quantities of oxygen, which in

this state is nascent, and of a powerful oxidising nature.'

A curious case of glass-making is published in the Proceedings of

the Newcastle-on-Tyne Chemical Society. A large mass of esparto

grass was burnt by accident. Lumps which might be called grass

clinkers were found among the ashes; and these on being properly

treated in a kiln produced glass which is described as 'a very good

sample of bottle-glass.' From this it is easy to understand that in

past ages some great bonfire of vegetable matter may have led to

the discovery of glass. Farmers who are unfortunate enough to have

their stack-yards burned, might possibly find straw clinkers among

the débris. This would be worth noting, for silica enters largely

into the composition of all grasses and cereals.

In South Russia, Hungary, parts of Italy, in Egypt, India, and

other parts of the world where no coal is to be had, different

kinds of vegetable refuse are used as fuel for steam-engines. In

a paper read at a meeting of the Institution of Civil Engineers

a table is given of the heating value of the refuse as compared

with coal. It has been found in Russia that a little more than

four acres can be cultivated with the waste straw of one acre,

which when compared with the results of steam-plough trials at

Wolverhampton shews that one pound of coal is equivalent to four

and one-sixth pounds of straw. An engine to burn vegetable waste

requires a greater heating surface than an ordinary engine; and

those of the most improved construction are self-feeding. In Egypt

the stalks of the cotton-plant and megass, or waste sugar-cane,

are the principal fuel; and the equivalent quantity of these to

one pound of coal is less than of straw. But there are engines in

England which burn vegetable waste; and the author of the paper

above mentioned is of opinion that 'as the demand for mechanical

appliances increases, so will the difficulties increase of

obtaining the best qualities of fuel for steam-boilers in rural

districts.' And he suggests that the only method of rendering the

use of steam-power universal, particularly for agriculture, would

be to construct the boiler of the engine so as to utilise the local

supplies of combustible material of every kind.'

Among scientific novelties worthy of notice are the Harmonograph,

an instrument constructed by Messrs Tisley and Spiller. It combines

a series of pendulums, susceptible of motion in every direction,

one of which carrying a pen, traces curves of remarkable forms

on a sheet of paper. Some of these curves represent waves of

sound as given off by a musical instrument, and certain waves of

light. Thus the invisible is, so to speak, made visible, with

manifest advantage to natural philosophy.--Next, the Otheoscope,

a modification of the radiometer designed by Mr Crookes. In this

little instrument the vanes do not rotate, but are fixed near a

horizontal disc free to move. The influence acting on the vanes is

thrown from them upon the disc, and the disc spins round with great

rapidity. The useful applications of this novelty have yet to be

discovered.--And Mr N. J. Holmes has invented a flaring projectile

or shell which when fired from a ship at sea falls into the water

at a distance of two miles if required; floats for an hour, and

throws out a powerful light, which in dark nights would be useful

in detecting the position and watching the movements of a hostile

fleet.

The Registrar-general pursuing the even tenor of his way amid the

world's excitements, has just published his Report on the public

health of 1876. He tells us that the area of London (taking the

registration division) is one hundred and twenty-two square miles,

with fifteen hundred miles of streets, about two thousand miles

of sewers, and 417,767 inhabited houses. The population numbered

nearly three millions and a half; but taking in the outlying

districts, 'greater London' as the Registrar calls it, contains

4,286,607 inhabitants, among whom the births were 153,192, and the

deaths 91,171. Some of these inhabitants live in the Plumstead

Marshes, eleven feet below, while the dwellers at Hampstead are

429 feet above high-water mark. These differences of level imply

different conditions of health; but the death-rate was not more

than 21.3 per thousand; which contrasts favourably with the

death-rate in other towns and cities within the kingdom and in

other parts of the world.

Economy is an important element in the maintenance of health, and

Dr Farr points out what looks like a waste of resources. He says:

'The capital engaged in the gas and water companies of London

is L.22,492,157, which realised in the year ending April 1876,

a profit of not less than L.1,676,542, or seven and a half per

cent. all round. Now, if this amount of capital were required

to construct all the works necessary to supply London with the

best gas and pure soft water at high-pressure, it could probably

be raised at four, or certainly three and a half per cent. less

than is now paid in dividends. If the capital were raised at four

per cent. L.776,856 would be set free; out of which, after the

companies were adequately compensated, there would be a large

revenue for education and many municipal purposes.' The facts set

forth in this paragraph should be taken into serious consideration

by all concerned.

A paper on the Climate of Scarborough in the _Quarterly Journal_ of

the Meteorological Society is worth attention, as it sets forth the

atmospheric movements to which that fashionable watering-place owes

the amenity of its summer climate. The highest summer temperature,

we are informed, is seventy degrees; and the temperature of the

sea is commonly five degrees below the temperature of the air.

'Another noticeable fact is, that in hot weather, with a tolerably

clear sky and a temperature between eight and nine A.M. of about

sixty degrees, rising to a maximum during the day of nearly

seventy, the wind, which in the morning is blowing from south-west

or west-south-west, generally backs to the south-south-east by the

middle of the day, bringing in a cool refreshing breeze from the

sea. This backward movement of the wind is easily accounted for,

when it is remembered that with such a high temperature and an

almost cloudless sky, the ground becomes much heated, causing the

lower stratum of warm and rarefied air to ascend, while the cooler

and heavier air is then drawn in from the sea to supply its place;'

and the moisture in this sea-breeze by tempering the sunshine

renders outdoor life the more agreeable.

As Fiji is now one of our colonial possessions, enterprising

emigrants will perhaps resort thither. They may find information

concerning the productions and weather of the group of islands

in a paper by Mr R. L. Holmes, published in the last number

of the _Quarterly Journal_ of the Meteorological Society. The

first quarter of the year comprehends the 'hurricane months;'

from January 1 to March 28, 1875, ninety inches of rain fell; an

inch a day. The driest month is July; the south-east trade-winds

are then strong; so strong indeed as to blow away the cotton,

which then 'breaks out with a rush,' unless it be quickly

gathered. The climate generally is described as healthy; fevers,

liver-complaints, and cholera, diseases almost always fatal in

a tropical country, being almost unknown. But a painful disease

of the eyes is common; and small wounds, even mosquito bites,

have a tendency to become serious sores, very difficult to heal.

The natives are a decidedly healthy race, notwithstanding that

they prefer to build their villages on swampy ground. That no

harmful consequences ensue may be due to the position of the

islands in the region of the trade-winds, whereby breezes always

prevail. Emigrants from Europe soon lose much of their fresh ruddy

appearance, their blood gets thin, and they probably lose in

weight; but if they will abstain from indulgence in ardent spirits

they may become acclimatised with but little risk of health.

SICILIAN BRIGANDAGE.

A writer on this subject in the _Edinburgh Review_ for April

more than confirms all that we stated on Italian Brigandage in

an article last January. We have in particular from this writer

a clear account of that system of organised iniquity known as

the _Mafia_, with its kindred associations the _Camorras_. The

Mafia, in fact, has an endless ramification of spontaneous and

illegal societies, and it comes pretty much to this, that society

in Sicily, high and low, official and non-official, is one great

confederacy to rob and murder at will, and otherwise defy or

circumvent the law in any way that seems best. The curious thing

is how any show of orderly civilised usages can be maintained.

Externally, in Palermo and other places, there is an aspect of

peacefulness and honesty; but beneath the surface nearly all

proceedings are regulated by force and deceit. The very attempt to

seek protection from the law brings down vengeance so remorseless

that well-disposed persons are fain to be silent under extortion.

There are three hundred and sixty communes in Sicily, and every

one of them, says this writer, 'has its own Mafia, of which the

character varies according to local tendencies and interests. In

one place its energies are devoted to the conduct of the elections

and the manipulations of the ballot-box; in another, to directing,

by means of a _Camorra_, the sale of church and crown lands; in

a third, to the apportionment of contracts for public works....

By a singular anomaly, the middle class--that very class of which

the absence is deplored in the rest of Sicily as the absence

of an element of order--forms in Palermo the chief strength of

the Mafia. Its proverbial virtues of prudence, industry, and

foresight are here exercised in the calling of crime. The so-called

_Capi_-mafia are men of substance and education. To them is due

the consummate ability with which the affairs of their association

are managed--the unity of direction, precision of purpose, and

fatality of stroke. They determine with unerring tact all the nice

points of their profession; in what cases life may be taken, and

in what others the end in view can be attained by mere destruction

of property; when an important capture is to be effected; when

a threatening letter sent, or a shot of persuasion fired; when

it is advisable to suspend operations, and when to inspire

terror by increased ferocity. By them, relations are maintained

with government offices in Rome, whose intrigues are generally

successful in obtaining the dismissal or removal of obnoxious

officials; so that complicity with crime is an almost necessary

condition of permanence in any responsible position.'

For this state of affairs, which violates all our conceptions of

a civilised community, the reviewer offers no practical scheme

for redress. Reform, in the ordinary acceptation of the word,

seems impracticable. Society is leagued to maintain a universal

terrorism. Judges, magistrates, police-officers are incorporated

in the gang of evil-doers. The military sent to preserve order

are inefficient. Whether from fear or favour, brigandage is

triumphant. Evidently the Italian government is powerless to

cure the disorderly condition of Sicily. The very members of the

government labour under suspicion of complicity. More probably,

they are afraid to give offence by acting with persistent vigour.

Constitutionalism carried to excess in a region wholly unprepared

for it, even in a moderate degree, might be described as the bane

of the country. It is in vain to appoint new native magistrates and

new police, for all are bad together. The feeble military force

sent to support the law is out-manœuvred or laughed at. Without

denying that things may mend in the course of ages, we should say,

that what Italy wants is a Cromwell with his Ironsides to stamp out

by military execution the ingrained villainy which now afflicts one

of the finest and most productive islands in the world. As there

is, however, no chance of a soldier of the Cromwell type casting

up, Sicily, we presume, must continue to be a disgrace to Italy and

as great a scandal to Europe as Turkey.

W. C.

* * * * *

Printed and Published by W. & R. CHAMBERS, 47 Paternoster Row,

LONDON, and 339 High Street, EDINBURGH.

* * * * *

_All Rights Reserved._

Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, No. 700 May 26, 1877 · 第 3 / 3 章