SECTION I.

A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,

ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:

FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,

DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE

PRESENT TIME.

BY

ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.

ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS,

VOL. XIV.

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:

AND T. CADELL, LONDON.

MDCCCXXIV.

CONTENTS OF VOL. XIV.

PART III.--BOOK II.

An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World,

performed in his Majesty's ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years

1772, 3, 4, and 5: Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution.

General Introduction

CHAP.

I. From our departure from England to leaving the Society Isles the

first time.

SECT.

I. Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account of

several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there.

II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern

Continent.

III. Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the

Meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of

the Separation of the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in

Dusky Bay.

IV. Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews

with the Inhabitants.

V. Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of

the adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and

Nautical Observations.

VI. Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account

of some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure.

VII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were

separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with

some Account of Van Diemen's Land.

VIII. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on

the Inhabitants.

IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low

Islands, supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville.

X. Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical

Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while

they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay.

XI. An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left

on the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the

Ships lay in Matavai Bay.

XII. An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the

Incidents that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of

the Natives, coming away in the Adventure,

XIII. Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an

Account of what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives,

coming away in the Resolution.

XIV. An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State

of the Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of

the Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected.

CHAP.

II. From our Departure from the Society Isles, to our Return to and leaving

them the second Time.

SECT.

I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of

the Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at

Middleburg.

II. The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place of

Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we

remained at that Island.

III. A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the

Cultivation, Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons,

Customs, Government, Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants.

IV. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account

of an Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation of the

two Ships.

V. Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of the

Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents.--Departure

from the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some

Description of the Coast.

VI. Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; with

an Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the

Methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean.

VII. Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and

Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the

Inland Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the

surprising gigantic Statues found in the Island.

VIII. A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and

Inhabitants; their Manners, and Customs; Conjectures concerning their

Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular

Account of the gigantic Statues.

IX. The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands.

Transactions and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre

de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina.

X. Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation,

Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some

Account of the Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food,

Weapons, and Canoes.

XI. A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the

Passage from the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval

Review.

XII. Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other

Chiefs; also of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its

Consequences, with general Observations on the Subject.

XIII. Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and

various other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval

Force, and Number of Inhabitants.

XIV. The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an

Account of an Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents

which happened while she lay there.

XV. Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met with

there, and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A

Report of two Ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the

island, and the Regret the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The

Character of Oedidee; with some general Observations on the Islands.

CHAP.

III. From Ulietea to New Zealand.

SECT.

I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles, with a Description of

several Islands that were discovered, and the Incidents which happened

in that Track.

II. Reception at Anamocka; a Robbery and its Consequences, with a

Variety of other Incidents. Departure from the Island. A sailing Canoe

described. Some Observations on the Navigation of these Islanders. A

Description of the Island, and of those in the Neighbourhood, with

some Account of the Inhabitants, and nautical Remarks.

III. The Passage from the Friendly Isles to the New Hebrides, with an

Account of the Discovery of Turtle Island, and a Variety of Incidents

which happened, both before and after the Ship arrived in Port

Sandwich, in the Island of Mallicollo. A Description of the Port, the

adjacent Country, its Inhabitants, and many other Particulars.

IV. An Account of the Discovery of several Islands, and an Interview

and Skirmish with the Inhabitants upon one of them. The Arrival of the

Ship at Tanna, and the Reception we met with there.

V. An Intercourse established with the Natives; some Account of the

Island, and a Variety of Incidents that happened during our Stay at

it.

VI. Departure from Tanna; with some Account of its Inhabitants,

their Manners and Arts.

VII. The survey of the Islands continued, and a more particular

Description of them.

VIII. An Account of the Discovery of New Caledonia, and the Incidents

that happened while the Ship lay in Balade.

IX. A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants; their Manners,

Customs, and Arts.

X. Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with Geographical and

Nautical Observations.

XI. Sequel of the Passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an

Account of the Discovery of Norfolk Island; and the Incidents that

happened while the Ship lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

CHAP.

IV. From leaving New Zealand to our Return to England.

SECT.

I. The Run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the Range from

Cape Deseada to Christmas Sound, and Description of that Part of the

Coast.

II. Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an Account of the Country

and its Inhabitants.

A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.

PART III. BOOK II.

AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD;

PERFORMED IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, IN THE YEARS

1772, 3, 4, AND 5: WRITTEN BY JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF THE RESOLUTION.

GENERAL INTRODUCTION.

Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere be only an immense

mass of water, or contain another continent, as speculative geography

seemed to suggest, was a question which had long engaged the attention, not

only of learned men, but of most of the maritime powers of Europe.

To put an end to all diversity of opinion about a matter so curious and

important, was his majesty's principal motive in directing this voyage to

be undertaken, the history of which is now submitted to the public.[1]

But, in order to give the reader a clear idea of what has been done in it,

and to enable him to judge more accurately, how far the great object that

was proposed, has been obtained, it will be necessary to prefix a short

account of the several voyages which have been made on discoveries to the

Southern Hemisphere, prior to that which I had lately the honour to

conduct, and which I am now going to relate.

The first who crossed the vast Pacific Ocean, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, a

Portuguese, who, in the service of Spain, sailed from Seville, with five

ships, on the 10th of April, 1519. He discovered the straits which bear his

name; and having passed through them, on the 27th of November, 1520,

entered the South Pacific Ocean.

In this sea he discovered two uninhabited islands, whose situations are not

well known. He afterwards crossed the Line; discovered the Ladrone Islands;

and then proceeded to the Phillipines, in one of which he was killed in a

skirmish with the natives.

His ship, called the Victory, was the first that circumnavigated the globe;

and the only one of his squadron that surmounted the dangers and distresses

which attended this heroic enterprise.[2]

The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had shewed them the way, made several

voyages from America to the westward, previous to that of Alvaro Mendana De

Neyra, in 1595, which is the first that can be traced step by step. For the

antecedent expeditions are not handed down to us with much precision.

We know, however, in general, that, in them, New Guinea, the islands called

Solomon's, and several others, were discovered.

Geographers differ greatly concerning the situation of the Solomon Islands.

The most probable opinion is, that they are the cluster which comprises

what has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c.[3]

On the 9th of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to settle these islands,

sailed from Callao, with four ships; and his discoveries in his route to

the west, were the Marquesas, in the latitude of 10° S.; the island of St

Bernardo, which I take to be the same that Commodore Byron calls the Island

of Danger; after that, Solitary Island, in the latitude of 10° 40' S.,

longitude 178° W.; and, lastly, Santa Cruz, which is undoubtedly the same

that Captain Carteret calls Egmont Island.

In this last island, Mendana, with many of his companions, died; and the

shattered remains of the squadron were conducted to Manilla, by Pedro

Fernandes de Quiros, the chief pilot.

This same Quiros was the first sent out, with the sole view of discovering

a southern continent, and, indeed, he seems to have been the first who had

any idea of the existence of one.

He sailed from Callao the 21st of December, 1605, as pilot of the fleet,

commanded by Luis Paz de Torres, consisting of two ships and a tender; and

steering to the W.S.W., on the 26th of January, 1606. being then, by their

reckoning, a thousand Spanish leagues from the coast of America, they

discovered a small low island in latitude 26° S. Two days after, they

discovered another that was high, with a plain on the top. This is probably

the same that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Island.

After leaving these islands, Quiros seems to have directed his course to

W.N.W. and N.W. to 10° or 11° S. latitude, and then westward, till he

arrived at the Bay of St Philip and Jago, in the Island of Tierra del

Espirito Santo. In this route be discovered several islands; probably some

of those that have been seen by later navigators.

On leaving the bay of St Philip and St Jago, the two ships were separated.

Quiros, with the Capitana, stood to the north, and returned to New Spain,

after having suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. Torres,

with the Almiranta and the tender, steered to the west, and seems to have

been the first who sailed between New Holland and New Guinea.[4]

The next attempt to make discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, was

conducted by Le Maire and Schouten. They sailed from the Texel, on the 14th

of June, 1615, with the ships Concord and Horn. The latter was burnt by

accident in Port Desire. With the other they discovered the straits that

bear the name of Le Maire, and were the first who ever entered the Pacific

Ocean, by the way of Cape Horn.

They discovered the island of Dogs, in latitude 15° 15' S., longitude 136°

30' W.; Sondre Grondt in 15° S. latitude, and 143° 10' W. longitude;

Waterland in 14° 46' S., and 144° 10' W.; and twenty-five leagues westward

of this, Fly Island, in latitude 15° 20'; Traitor's and Coco's Islands, in

latitude 15° 43' S., longitude 173° 13' W.; two degrees more to the

westward, the isle of Hope; and in the latitude of 14° 56' S., longitude

179° 30' E., Horn Island.

They next coasted the north side of New Britain and New Guinea, and arrived

at Batavia in October, 1616.[5]

Except some discoveries on the western and northern coasts of New Holland,

no important voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1642, when

Captain Tasman sailed from Batavia, with two ships belonging to the Dutch

East India Company, and discovered Van Diemen's Land; a small part of the

western coast of New Zealand; the Friendly Isles; and those called Prince

William's.[6]

Thus far I have thought it best not to interrupt the progress of discovery

in the South Pacific Ocean, otherwise I should before have mentioned, that

Sir Richard Hawkins in 1594, being about fifty leagues to the eastward of

the river Plate, was driven by a storm to the eastward of his intended

course, and when the weather grew moderate, steering towards the Straits of

Magalhaens, he unexpectedly fell in with land, about sixty leagues of which

he coasted, and has very particularly described. This he named Hawkins's

Maiden Land, in honour of his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, and says it

lies some threescore leagues from the nearest part of South America.

This land was afterwards discovered to be two large islands, by Captain

John Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1689, passed through the

strait which divides the eastern from the western of those islands. To this

strait he gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron Lord

Falkland; and the name has since been extended, through inadvertency, to

the two islands it separates.

Having mentioned these islands, I will add, that future navigators will

mis-spend their time, if they look for Pepy's Island in 47° S.; it being

now certain, that Pepy's Island is no other than these islands of

Falkland.[7]

In April, 1675, Anthony la Roche, an English merchant, in his return from

the South Pacific Ocean, where he had been on a trading voyage, being

carried by the winds and currents, far to the east of Strait Le Maire, fell

in with a coast, which may possibly be the same with that which I visited

during this voyage, and have called the Island of Georgia.

Leaving this land, and sailing to the north, La Roche, in the latitude of

45° S., discovered a large island, with a good port towards the eastern

part, where he found wood, water, and fish.

In 1699, that celebrated astronomer, Dr Edmund Halley, was appointed to the

command of his majesty's ship the Paramour Pink, on an expedition for

improving the knowledge of the longitude, and of the variation of the

compass; and for discovering the unknown lands supposed to lie in the

southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. In this voyage he determined the

longitude of several places; and, after his return, constructed his

variation-chart, and proposed a method of observing the longitude at sea,

by means of the appulses and occultations of the fixed stars. But, though

he so successfully attended to the two first articles of his instructions,

he did not find any unknown southern land.[8]

The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three ships to make discoveries in the South

Pacific Ocean, under the command of Admiral Roggewein. He left the Texel on

the 21st of August, and arriving in that ocean, by going round Cape Horn,

discovered Easter Island, probably seen before, though not visited, by

Davies;[9] then between 14° 41' and 15° 47' S. latitude, and between the

longitude of 142° and 150° W., fell in with several other islands, which I

take to be some of those seen by the late English navigators. He next

discovered two islands in latitude 15° S., longitude 170° W., which he

called Baumen's Islands; and, lastly, Single Island, in latitude 13° 41'

S., longitude 171° 30' W. These three islands are, undoubtedly, the same

that Bougainville calls the Isles of Navigators.[10]

In 1738, the French East India Company sent Lozier Bouvet with two ships,

the Eagle and Mary, to make discoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. He

sailed from Port L'Orient on the 19th of July in that year; touched at the

island of St Catherine; and from thence shaped his course towards the

south-east.

On the 1st of January, 1739, he discovered land, or what he judged to be

land, in latitude 54° S., longitude 11° E. It will appear in the course of

the following narrative, that we made several attempts to find this land

without success. It is, therefore, very probable, that what Bouvet saw was

nothing more than a large ice-island. From hence he stood to the east, in

51° of latitude to 35° of E. longitude: After which the two ships

separated, one going to the island of Mauritius, and the other returning to

France.[11]

After this voyage of Bouvet, the spirit of discovery ceased, till his

present majesty formed a design of making discoveries, and exploring the

southern hemisphere; and, in the year 1764, directed it to be put in

execution.

Accordingly Commodore Byron, having under his command the Dolphin and

Tamer, sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June the same year; and having

visited the Falkland Islands, passed through the Straits of Magalhaens into

the Pacific Ocean, where he discovered the islands of Disappointment,

George's, Prince of Wales's, the isles of Danger, York Island, and Byron

Island.

He returned to England the 9th of May, 1766, and, in the month of August

following, the Dolphin was again sent out under the command of Captain

Wallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret.

They proceeded together, till they came to the west end of the Straits of

Magalhaens, and the Great South Sea in sight, where they were separated.

Captain Wallis directed his course more westerly than any navigator had

done before him in so high a latitude; but met with no land till he got

within the tropic, where he discovered the islands of Whitsunday, Queen

Charlotte, Egmont, Duke of Gloucester, Duke of Cumberland, Maitea,

Otaheite, Eimeo, Tapamanou, How, Scilly, Boscawen, Keppel, and Wallis; and

returned to England in May, 1768.

His companion Captain Carteret kept a different route, in which he

discovered the islands of Osnaburg, Gloucester, Queen Charlotte's Isles,

Carteret's, Gower's, and the strait between New Britain and New Ireland;

and returned to England in March, 1769.

In November, 1766, Commodore Bougainville sailed from France in the frigate

La Boudeuse, with the store-ship L'Etoile. After spending some time on the

coast of Brazil, and at Falkland's Islands, he got into the Pacific Sea by

the Straits of Magalhaens, in January, 1768.

In this ocean he discovered the Four Facardines, the isle of Lanciers, and

Harp Island, which I take to be the same that I afterwards named Lagoon,

Thrum Cap, and Bow Island. About twenty leagues farther to the west he

discovered four other islands; afterwards fell in with Maitea, Otaheite,

isles of Navigators, and Forlorn Hope, which to him were new discoveries.

He then passed through between the Hebrides, discovered the Shoal of Diana,

and some others, the land of Cape Deliverance, several islands more to the

north, passed the north of New Ireland, touched at Batavia, and arrived in

France in March, 1769.

This year was rendered remarkable by the transit of the planet Venus over

the sun's disk, a phenomenon of great importance to astronomy; and which

every-where engaged the attention of the learned in that science.

In the beginning of the 1768, the Royal Society presented a memorial to his

majesty, setting forth the advantages to be derived from accurate

observations of this transit in different parts of the world; particularly

from a set of such observations made in a southern latitude, between the

140th and 130th degrees of longitude, west from the Royal Observatory at

Greenwich; and that vessels, properly equipped, would be necessary to

convey the observers to their destined stations; but that the society were

in no condition to defray the expence of such an undertaking.

In consequence of this memorial, the Admiralty were directed by his majesty

to provide proper vessels for this purpose. Accordingly, the Endeavour

bark, which had been built for the coal-trade, was purchased and fitted out

for the southern voyage, and I was honoured with the command of her. The

Royal Society, soon after, appointed me, in conjunction with Mr Charles

Green the astronomer, to make the requisite observations on the transit.

It was at first intended to perform this great, and now a principal

business of our voyage, either at the Marquesas, or else at one of those

islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, now

better known under the name of the Friendly Islands. But while the

Endeavour was getting ready for the expedition, Captain Wallis returned

from his voyage round the world, in the course of which he had discovered

several islands in the South Sea; and, amongst others, Otaheite. This

island was preferred to any of those before mentioned, on account of the

conveniences it afforded; because its place had been well ascertained, and

found to be extremely well suited to our purpose.

I was therefore ordered to proceed directly to Otaheite; and after

astronomical observations should be completed, to prosecute the design of

making discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by proceeding to the south

as far as the latitude of 40°; then, if I found no land, to proceed to the

west between 40° and 35°, till I fell in with New Zealand, which I was to

explore; and thence to return to England by such route as I should think

proper.

In the prosecution of these instructions, I sailed from Deptford the 30th

July, 1768; from Plymouth the 26th of August, touched at Madeira, Rio de

Janeiro, and Straits Le Maire, and entered the South Pacific Ocean by Cape

Horn in January the following year.

I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and in part succeeded;

but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, where I fell in with

Lagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island; and on the 13th of

April arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during which time

the observations on the transit were made.

I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles and Oheteroa;

thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40° 22',

longitude 147° 29' W.; and, on the 6th of October, fell in with the east

side of New Zealand.

I continued exploring the coast of this country till the 31st of March,

1770, when I quitted it, and proceeded to New Holland; and having surveyed

the eastern coast of that vast country, which part had not before been

visited, I passed between its northern extremity and New Guinea, landed on

the latter, touched at the island of Savu, Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope,

and St Helena,[12] and arrived in England on the 12th of July, 1771.

In this voyage I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; the first a

gentleman of ample fortune; the other an accomplished disciple of Linnæus,

and one of the librarians of the British Museum; both of them distinguished

in the learned world, for their extensive and accurate knowledge of natural

history. These gentlemen, animated by the love of science, and by a desire

to pursue their enquiries in the remote regions I was preparing to visit,

desired permission to make a voyage with me. The Admiralty readily complied

with a request that promised such advantage to the republic of letters.

They accordingly embarked with me, and participated in all the dangers and

sufferings of our tedious and fatiguing navigation.

The voyages of Messrs de Surville, Kerguelen, and Marion, of which some

account is given in the following work, did not come to my knowledge time

enough to afford me any advantage; and as they have not been communicated

to the world in a public way, I can say little about them, or about two

other voyages, which, I am told, have been made by the Spaniards; one to

Easter Island in the year 1769, and the other to Otaheite in 1775.[13]

Before I begin my narrative of the expedition entrusted to my care, it will

be necessary to add here some account of its equipment, and of some other

matters equally interesting, connected with my subject.

Soon after my return home in the Endeavour, it was resolved to equip two

ships, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere. The nature of

this voyage required ships of a particular construction, and the Endeavour

being gone to Falkland's Isles as a store-ship, the Navy-board was directed

to purchase two such ships as were most suitable for this service.

At this time various opinions were espoused by different people, touching

the size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage. Some were for

having large ships, and proposed those of forty guns, or East India

Company's ships. Others preferred large good sailing frigates, or three-

decked ships, employed in the Jamaica trade, fitted with round-houses. But

of all that was said and offered to the Admiralty's consideration on this

subject, as far as has come to my knowledge, what, in my opinion, was most

to the purpose, was suggested by the Navy-board.

As the kind of ships most proper to be employed on discoveries, is a very

interesting consideration to the adventurers in such undertakings, it may

possibly be of use to those, who, in future, may be so employed, to give

here the purport of the sentiments of the Navy-board thereon, with whom,

after the experience of two voyages of three years each, I perfectly agree.

The success of such undertakings as making discoveries in distant parts of

the world, will principally depend on the preparations being well adapted

to what ought to be the first considerations, namely, the preservation of

the adventurers and ships; and this will ever chiefly depend on the kind,

the size, and the properties of the ships chosen for the service.

These primary considerations will not admit of any other that may interfere

with the necessary properties of the ships. Therefore, in choosing the

ships, should any of the most advantageous properties be wanting, and the

necessary room in them, be in any degree diminished, for less important

purposes, such a step would be laying a foundation for rendering the

undertaking abortive in the first instance.

As the greatest danger to be apprehended and provided against, on a voyage

of discovery, especially to the most distant parts of the globe, is that of

the ship's being liable to be run a-ground on an unknown, desert, or

perhaps savage coast; so no consideration should be set in competition with

that of her being of a construction of the safest kind, in which the

officers may, with the least hazard, venture upon a strange coast. A ship

of this kind must not be of a great draught of water, yet of a sufficient

burden and capacity to carry a proper quantity of provisions and

necessaries for her complement of men, and for the time requisite to

perform the voyage.

She must also be of a construction that will bear to take the ground; and

of a size, which in case of necessity, may be safely and conveniently laid

on shore, to repair any accidental damage or defect. These properties are

not to be found in ships of war of forty guns, nor in frigates, nor in East

India Company's ships, nor in large three-decked West India ships, nor

indeed in any other but North-country-built ships, or such as are built for

the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose.

In such a vessel an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better

enabled to fulfil his instructions, than he possibly can (or indeed than

would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any other _sort_ or _size_.

Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no ships are so proper for

discoveries in distant unknown parts, as those constructed as was the

Endeavour, in which I performed my former voyage. For no ships of any other

kind can contain stores and provisions sufficient (in proportion to the

necessary number of men,) considering the length of time it will be

necessary they should last. And, even if another kind of ships could stow a

sufficiency, yet on arriving at the parts for discovery, they would still,

from the nature of their construction and size, be _less fit_ for the

purpose.

Hence, it may be concluded, so little progress had been hitherto made in

discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere. For all ships which attempted it

before the Endeavour, were unfit for it; although the officers employed in

them had done the utmost in their power.

It was upon this consideration that the Endeavour was chosen for that

voyage. It was to those properties in her that those on board owed their

preservation; and hence we were enabled to prosecute discoveries in those

seas so much longer than any other ship ever did, or could do. And,

although discovery was not the first object of that voyage, I could venture

to traverse a far greater space of sea, til then unnavigated; to discover

greater tracts of country in high and low south latitudes, and to persevere

longer in exploring and surveying more correctly the extensive coasts of

those new-discovered countries, than any former navigator perhaps had done

during one voyage.

In short, these properties in the ships, with perseverance and resolution

in their commanders, will enable them to execute their orders; to go beyond

former discoverers; and continue to Britain the reputation of taking the

lead of nations, in exploring the globe.

These considerations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on the same

subject, the Admiralty determined to have two such ships as are here

recommended. Accordingly two were purchased of Captain William Hammond of

Hull. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built the

Endeavour, being about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time they were

purchased, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intended

service, as if they had been built for the purpose. The largest of the two

was four hundred and sixty-two tons burden. She was named Resolution, and

sent to Deptford to be equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-six

tons burden. She was named Adventure, and sent to be equipped at Woolwich.

It was at first proposed to sheathe them with copper; but on considering

that copper corrodes the iron-work, especially about the rudder, this

intention was laid aside, and the old method of sheathing and fitting

pursued, as being the most secure; for although it is usual to make the

rudder-bands of the same composition, it is not, however, so durable as

iron, nor would it, I am well assured, last out such a voyage as the

Resolution performed.[14]

Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect of copper upon

iron-work, it would not be advisable to use it on a voyage of this kind,

as, the principal fastenings of the ship being iron, they may be destroyed.

On the 28th of November, 1771, I was appointed to the command of the

Resolution; and Tobias Furneaux (who had been second lieutenant with

Captain Wallis) was promoted, on this occasion, to the command of the

Adventure.

_Our Complements of Officers and Men were fixed, as in the following

Table._

RESOLUTION

_Officers and Men, Officers Names_

Captain (1) James Cook.

Lieutenants (3) Rob. P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, Richd. Pickersgill.

Master (1) Joseph Gilbert.

Boatswain (1) James Gray.

Carpenter (1) James Wallis.

Gunner (1) Robert Anderson.

Surgeon (1) James Patten.

Master's mates (3)

Midshipmen (6)

Surgeon's mates (2)

Captain's clerk (1)

Master at arms (1)

Corporal (1)

Armourer (1)

Ditto mate (1)

Sail-maker (1)

Boatswain's mate (3)

Carpenter's ditto (3)

Gunner's ditto (2)

Carpenter's crews (4)

Cook (1)

Ditto mate (1)

Quarter-masters (6)

Able seamen (45)

Marines

Lieutenant (1) John Edgecumbe.

Serjeant (1)

Corporals (2)

Drummer (1)

Privates (15)

Total, 112

ADVENTURE

_Officers and Men, Officers Names_

Captain (1) Tobias Furneaux.

Lieutenants (3) Joseph Shank, Arthur Kempe.

Master (1) Peter Fannin.

Boatswain (1) Edward Johns.

Carpenter (1) William Offord.

Gunner (1) Andrew Gloag.

Surgeon (1) Thos. Andrews.

Master's mate (2)

Midshipmen (4)

Surgeon's mates (2)

Captain's clerk (1)

Master at arms (1)

Ditto Mate (1)

Sail-maker (1)

Ditto Mate (1)

Boatswain's mate (1)

Carpenter's ditto (2)

Gunner's ditto (2)

Carpenter's crews (1)

Cook (4)

Ditto mate (1)

Quarter-masters (4)

Able seamen (33)

Marines

Lieutenant (1) James Scott.

Serjeant (1)

Corporals (1)

Drummer (1)

Privates (8)

Total, 81

I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with the choice

of the officers. The second and third lieutenants, the lieutenant of

marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers,

had been with me during the former voyage. The others were men of known

abilities; and all of them, on every occasion, shewed their zeal for the

service in which they were employed, during the whole voyage.

In the equipping of these ships, they were not confined to ordinary

establishments, but were fitted in the most complete manner, and supplied

with every extra article that was suggested to be necessary.

Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equipment, by

visiting the ships from time to time, to satisfy himself that the whole was

completed to his wish, and to the satisfaction of those who were to embark

in them.

Nor were the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with the

very best of stores and provisions, and whatever else was necessary for so

long a voyage.--Some alterations were adopted in the species of provisions

usually made use of in the navy. That is, we were supplied with wheat in

lieu of so much oatmeal, and sugar in lieu of so much oil; and when

completed, each ship had two years and a half provisions on board, of all

species.

We had besides many extra articles, such as _malt, sour krout, salted

cabbage, portable broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and

inspissated juice of wort and beer_. Some of these articles had before

been found to be highly antiscorbutic; and others were now sent out on

trial, or by way of experiment;--the inspissated juice of beer and wort,

and marmalade of carrots especially. As several of these antiscorbutic

articles are not generally known, a more particular account of them may not

be amiss.

Of _malt_ is made _sweet wort_, which is given to such persons as

have got the scurvy, or whose habit of body threatens them with it, from

one to five or six pints a-day, as the surgeon sees necessary.

_Sour krout_ is cabbage cut small, to which is put a little salt,

juniper berries, and anniseeds; it is then fermented, and afterwards close

packed in casks; in which state it will keep good a long time. This is a

wholesome vegetable food, and a great antiscorbutic. The allowance to each

man is two pounds a week, but I increased or diminished their allowance as

I thought proper.

_Salted cabbage_ is cabbage cut to pieces, and salted down in casks,

which will preserve it a long time.

_Portable broth_ is so well known, that it needs no description. We

were supplied with it both for the sick and well, and it was exceedingly

beneficial.

_Saloup_ and _rob of lemons_ and _oranges_ were for the sick

and scorbutic only, and wholly under the surgeon's care.

_Marmalade of carrots_ is the juice of yellow carrots, inspissated

till it is of the thickness of fluid honey, or treacle, which last it

resembles both in taste and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storsch, of

Berlin, as a very great antiscorbutic; but we did not find that it had much

of this quality.

For the _inspissated juice of wort_ and _beer_ we were indebted

to Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners of the victualling office.

This gentleman, some years ago, considered that if the juice of malt,

either as beer or wort, was inspissated by evaporation, it was probable

this inspissated juice would keep good at sea; and, if so, a supply of beer

might be had, at any time, by mixing it with water. Mr Pelham made several

experiments, which succeeded so well, that the commissioners caused thirty-

one half barrels of this juice to be prepared, and sent out with our ships

for trial; nineteen on board the Resolution, and the remainder on board the

Adventure. The success of the experiments will be mentioned in the

narrative, in the order as they were made.

The frame of a small vessel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared,

and put on board each of the ships to be set up (if found necessary) to

serve as tenders upon any emergency, or to transport the crew, in case the

ship was lost.

We were also well provided with fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of every

kind for catching of fish.--And, in order to enable us to procure

refreshments, in such inhabited parts of the world as we might touch at,

where money was of no value, the Admiralty caused to be put on board both

the ships, several articles of merchandize; as well to trade with the

natives for provisions, as to make them presents to gain their friendship

and esteem.

Their lordships also caused a number of medals to be struck, the one side

representing his majesty, and the other the two ships. These medals were to

be given to the natives of new-discovered countries, and left there as

testimonies of our being the first discoverers.

Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board; to

be given to the seamen whenever it was thought necessary. In short, nothing

was wanting that could tend to promote the success of the undertaking, or

contribute to the conveniences and health of those who embarked in it.

The Admiralty shewed no less attention to science in general, by engaging

Mr William Hodges, a landscape painter, to embark in this voyage, in order

to make drawings and paintings of such places in the countries we should

touch at, as might be proper to give a more perfect, idea thereof, than

could be formed from written descriptions only.

And it being thought of public utility, that some person skilled in natural

history, should be engaged to accompany me in this voyage, the parliament

granted an ample sum for the purpose, and Mr John Reinhold Forster, with

his son, were pitched upon for this employment.[15]

The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr William Wales and Mr William Bayley,

to make astronomical observations; the former on board the Resolution, and

the latter on board the Adventure. The great improvements which astronomy

and navigation have met with from the many interesting observations they

have made, would have done honour to any person whose reputation for

mathematical knowledge was not so well known as theirs.

The same Board furnished them with the best instruments, for making both

astronomical and nautical observations and experiments; and likewise with

four time-pieces, or watch machines; three made by Mr Arnold, and one made

by Mr Kendal on Mr Harrison's principles. A particular account of the going

of these watches, as also the astronomical and nautical observations made

by the astronomers, has been before the public, by order of the Board of

Longitude, under the inspection of Mr Wales.[16]

Besides the obligation I was under to this gentleman for communicating to

me the observations he made, from time to time, during the voyage, I have

since been indebted to him for the perusal of his journal, with leave to

take from it whatever I thought might contribute to the improvement of this

work.

For the convenience of the generality of readers, I have reduced the time

from the nautical to the civil computation, so that whenever the terms A.M.

and P.M. are used, the former signifies the forenoon, and the latter the

afternoon of the same day.

In all the courses, bearings, &c., the variation of the compass is allowed,

unless the contrary is expressed. And now it may be necessary to say, that,

as I am on the point of sailing on a third expedition, I leave this account

of my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who, in my absence, have

kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me; who are pleased

to think that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my own

words, than in the words of another person; especially as it is a work

designed for information, and not merely for amusement; in which, it is

their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counter-balance the want of

ornament.[17]

I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse with desiring the

reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will

frequently meet with in the following narrative; and that, when such occur,

he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had the

advantage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from

his youth; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has

passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice

boy in the coal trade, to a post-captain in the royal navy, he has had no

opportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, the

public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the

plausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider me as a

plain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and

determined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings.[18]

JAMES COOK.

_Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776._

[1] It is scarcely conceivable, that any men of science in the end of

the 18th century, should have insisted on mathematical reasons for the

supposition of a southern counterpoise; and therefore, as is mentioned

by Mr Wales, in his introduction to the account of the astronomical

observations made during this voyage, it must be held, that the

opinion which induced his majesty to order the voyage, for the purpose

of discovering a continent or large islands towards the South Pole,

was founded on mere probability. That there is no necessity for such

an existence, is very certain, for the preservation of the earth's

motion on its axis can be readily accounted for without it; yet,

reasoning from analogy, and considering the successful experiment of

Columbus, there seemed sufficient grounds, independent of the alleged

discoveries of Bouvet and others, to expect that some lands might be

found there. After this, it required little additional excitement of

fancy to believe, that if there, and if found, they might be no less

important to the discoverers, than America was judged to be to the

Spaniards. Men are not easily cured of their prejudices, when the

foundations on which they are built, derive validity from the hope of

interest. It is impossible to tell what kind and degree of advantages,

certain sanguine specialists anticipated from the Terra Australis.

Excepting the article of the prolongation of life _ad infinitum_, it is

questionable, if the philosopher's stone, when discovered, could have

accomplished more; and even with respect to that, it might have been

imagined, that the soil and climate would so materially differ from

any other before known, as to yield some sovereign elixir or plant of

life-giving efficacy. That it was charitably hoped, they would be no

less serviceable in another particular, of perhaps fully greater

consequence, may be inferred from a passage in Dr Hawkesworth's reply

to Mr Dalrymple, appended to his Account of Cook's First Voyage, &c.,

second edition. "I am very sorry," says he, "for the discontented

state of this good gentleman's mind, and most sincerely wish that a

southern continent may be found, as I am confident _nothing else can

make him happy and good-humoured!_" Mr Dalrymple seems to have set

no bounds to his expectations from the discovery, and accordingly

thought that no bounds ought to be set to the endeavours to accomplish

it. Witness the very whimsical _negative_ and _affirmative_

dedication of his Historical Collection of Voyages, &c. "Not to, &c.

&c., but to the man, who, emulous of Magalhaens and the heroes of

former times, _undeterred_ by difficulties, and _unseduced_

by pleasure, shall persist through every obstacle, and not by chance,

but by virtue and good conduct, _succeed in establishing an

intercourse_ with a southern continent, &c!", A zeal so red-hot as

this, could scarcely be cooled down to any thing like common sense, on

one of the fields of ice encountered by Cook in his second voyage; but

what a pity it is, that it should not be accompanied by as much of the

inventive faculty, as might serve to point out how impossibilities can

be performed, and insuperable obstructions removed! It is but justice

to this gentleman to say, that his willingness to undertake such a

task, was as enthusiastic as his idea of its magnitude and importance.

His industry, besides, in acquiring information in this department of

science, and his liberality in imparting it, were most exemplary. On

the whole, therefore, saving the circumstances of fortune and success,

he may be ranked with any of the heroes of former times!

It would be well to remember, that the Deity is not bound to act

according to our notions of fitness; and that though it may not always

be easiest, yet it is certainly most modest to form our theories from

a survey of his works, rather than the nursery of our own prejudices.

The following observations may be of utility to some readers. The

motion of the earth about its axis is uniform, and quite unaffected by

the irregularities on its surface or of its density. This is a fact to

be admitted, not an opinion to be proved. But in point of reasoning,

it is quite demonstrable, that the highest mountain on the surface of

the earth, bears no larger a proportion to the magnitude of the earth,

than a grain of sand does to that of one of our largest globes, and

can have no more effect on its motion: Besides, as is noticed by Mr

Wales, every body will be _in equilibrio_, however irregular, when it

is suspended or revolves on a line passing through its centre of

gravity, and will not have either its rest or motion disturbed by any

irregularities lying in the direction of that line, which may be

safely supposed the case with our earth. The simple addition of any

fluid matter to a body so circumstanced, will not cause any

aberration, as it will distribute itself in the parts nearest to the

centre of gravity, without regard to the centre of the body, which may

or may not be the same. The principal tracts of both land and sea may

be held to extend from the North towards the South Pole, and are

accordingly in the direction of the earth's axis. Obviously,

therefore, there is no necessity for a southern continent to answer as

a counterpoise; and it is even conceivable that the matter in the

regions of the South Pole, is specifically lighter than that of any

other part, in perfect consistency with what is known of the earth's

motion. The reasons of a different kind from what have now been

mentioned, for the existence of southern lands, fall to be elsewhere

considered.--E.

[2] An account of the voyage performed by Magalhaens, is given in vol.

x. of this collection. The discoveries made by that enterprising man

in the South Pacific Ocean, were far from being very important; but

the expedition in which he unfortunately lost his life, will ever be

memorable in the pages of history, as the first circumnavigation of the

world.--E.

[3] Mr Dalrymple has collected together the few existing notices of

Spanish voyages of discovery, betwixt the times of those performed by

Magalhaens and Mendana. Though by no means considerable in bulk, they

are too numerous to be detailed in this place. It is very probable,

that the Spanish government continued from mere habit to reserve the

more perfect memorials, after all the views of policy which first

occasioned their being withheld from the public, had been abandoned.

The affairs of that ill-fated kingdom have been long very unfavourable

to the investigations, which certainly unimportant curiosity might

prompt on the subject--E.

[4] Two relations have been given of Mendana's voyage; one by Quiros

above-mentioned, in a letter to Don Antonio Morga, lieutenant-general

of the Phillipines, when Quiros landed at Manila, which was inserted

in a work published at Mexico in 1609; and the other contained in

Thevenot's French collection, being, as Mr Dalrymple has remarked, a

transcript from Figueroa's history of Garcia Hurtado de Mendoça, and

of less authority. The discoveries of Quiros, real and supposed, have

attracted very peculiar notice, and deservedly so. Almost every

collection specifies them. That which the president de Brosses has

given on the authority of several Spanish works, has been generally

followed. Mr Dalrymple is earnest in securing to this _immortal_

name, the honour of discovering the southern continent. It is most

certain that he did discover something in the Pacific Ocean, but it

never yet has been shewn, that this something any way corresponds with

the wonderful description he thought proper to give of it, in his

memorial to the Spanish king. "Its longitude," says he, (we copy from

Mr Dalrymple's translation) "is as much as that of all Europe, Asia-

Minor, and to the Caspian Sea, and Persia, with all the islands of the

Mediterranean and Ocean, which are in its limits embraced, including

England and Ireland. That _unknown_ part is a quarter of the

whole globe, and so capacious, that it may contain in it double the

kingdoms and provinces of all those your majesty is at present Lord

of: And that without adjoining to Turks or Moors, or others of the

nations which are accustomed to disquiet and disturb their

neighbours!" This was a discoverer after our own heart, worth a dozen

or two of Ansons, Byrons, and Cooks! Amongst his real discoveries must

be particularly regarded the Tierra del Espirito Santo above-

mentioned, which was visited by Bougainville in 1768, and called by

him the New Cyclades, a name since supplanted by that which Cook gave,

the New Hebrides.--E.

[5] See our account of this voyage in vol. x. It was perhaps more

fruitful in discoveries of islands, than any preceding expedition, and

was remarkable, besides, for the small loss of lives during its

continuance, viz. only three men. The interesting enough discovery of

the Strait which bears the name of Le Maire, would have been

sufficient to signalize the spirited undertaking of that merchant. Nor

can it be any thing to _his_ discredit, considering his

circumstances and profession, that he had his golden dreams about a

southern counterpoise. Technical habits might readily suggest to him

the propriety of an exact balance.--E.

[6] A note has been given in vol. xiii. respecting Tasman's voyage.

His discoveries were undoubtedly of some importance, and deserve

particular notice in a collection; as such, an opportunity, it is

expected, will occur for effecting it, either entire from Valentyn's

relation, or in abstract from various authorities.--E.

[7] See what has been said on this subject in our account of Byron's

voyage, vol. xii. p. 47.--E.

[8] The results of Dr Halley's voyage were communicated to the Royal

Society of London, and constitute part, certainly an interesting part,

of their published papers. If is rather to be wondered at, that Cook

has not made mention of some other voyages of discovery about this

period, especially Dampier's, of which, as well as of some more, the

reader will find an account in our 10th volume.--E.

[9] See Waifer's description of the Isthmus of Darien.

[10] See our relation of Commodore Roggewein's voyage in the 11th vol.

of this Collection.--E.

[11] It seems impossible to doubt for a moment, the validity of Cook's

evidence against Bouvet's alleged discovery of land, above alluded to.

In the present day, there is nothing like a whisper insinuated to its

disparagement; and accordingly the name of Bouvet is never mentioned

as a discoverer. The reader need scarcely be reminded of the position

which our accounts of the following voyage occupy in this Collection,

viz. the 12th and 13th volumes.--E.

[12] Footnote in the 1st ed. In the account given of St Helena in the

narrative of my former voyage, I find two mistakes. Its inhabitants

are far from exercising a wanton cruelty over their slaves, and they

have had wheel-carriages and porters' knots for many years.

[13] A satisfactory account of Surville's Voyage is given in

Berenger's Collection, vol. vi. published at Paris, 1790, of which, if

our limits allow it, we may furnish the reader with an abstract. It is

remarkable, as being partly planned by the celebrated Law of

Lauriston. A relation of Kerguelen's voyage, which was made in 1771,

2, and 3, was published at Paris in 1781, and, according to the Bib.

Univ. des Voy. is become scarce. The writer is quite ignorant of its

value. Marion was killed by the savages of New Zealand; after his

death, the voyage was carried on by M. Ducleneur, under whom the

principal observations were made in the South Sea. The account of this

voyage was published at Paris in 1783. The reader will easily believe,

therefore, that Captain Cook could not have profited by any of these

three expeditions.--E.

[14] Till the discovery of what has been denominated Galvanism, it was

difficult, if not impossible, to explain the circumstance alluded to

in the text, that copper corrodes the iron work of vessels. Now, it is

thought there is no mystery in the matter. But, in truth, we have only

been enabled by more certain observation to classify the fact with

several others of a like nature, and all perhaps equally inexplicable.

The application of new names to old things, will scarcely pass with

any philosopher, for a discovery. On the other hand, it is certain,

that the invention of means by which new powers are produced, is

justly entitled to that distinction. It is impossible to withhold this

praise from Galvani and some of his followers.--E.

[15] Both of these gentlemen published works respecting this second

voyage of Cook, to which we shall have occasion to refer in the notes.

That of the former is entitled, "Observations made during a Voyage

round the World, on Physical Geography, Natural History, and Ethic

Philosophy, &c.," and was published at London in 1778, 4to.; that of

the latter is, properly speaking, a full relation of the voyage, and

appeared in two volumes 4to., at London, the year before. There is

good reason for saying. that no account of this voyage can be held

complete, that is not materially aided by these two productions,

which, with sundry imperfections, and perhaps _vices_, have very

great merit, and are highly interesting. They are accordingly, as well

as the work of Mr Wales, freely used for the purpose of this

collection.--E.

[16] Many readers may desire to know what kind of instruments Captain

Cook alludes to above. The following list is taken from Mr Wales's

work, which, from the nature of it, has been rarely looked into by any

but scientific men.

1. A portable observatory. 2. An astronomical clock, made by Mr

Shelton. 3. An assistant clock, made by Mr Monk. 4. A transit

instrument, made by Mr Bird. 5. An astronomical quadrant, by the same

excellent artist. 6. A reflecting telescope, of two feet focal length,

by ditto. 7. An achromatic refracting telescope, of three and a half

feet, and triple object glass, made by Mr Dollond. 8. A Hadley's

sextant, by ditto. 9. Another, by Mr Ramsden. 10. An azimuth compass,

by Mr Adams. 11. A pair of globes, by ditto. 12. A dipping needle, by

Mr Nairne. I3. A marine barometer, by ditto. 14. A wind gage, invented

by Dr Lind of Edinburgh, and made by Mr Nairne. 15. Two portable

barometers, made by Mr Burton. 16. Six thermometers, by ditto. 17. A

theodolite, with a level, and a Gunter's chain, by ditto. 18. An

apparatus for trying the heat of the sea-water at different depths.

19. Two time-keepers, one made by Mr Larcum Kendal, on Mr Harrison's

principles, and the other by Mr John Arnold.

Mr Wales has particularly described some of these instruments, and the

mode of using them. He has, besides, given a very interesting, though

short history of the application of astronomical instruments to

navigation, a summary of which, with some additional remarks, could

scarcely fail to be valued by any reader concerned for the promotion

of useful science. This, accordingly, it is purposed to insert

whenever a proper opportunity occurs. It might seem rather a hindrance

in this place.--E.

[17] The opinion stated in the memoir of Cook, in the Biographia

Britannica, as to his appearance in the character of an author,

perfectly concurs with what the writer has elsewhere said on the

subject; and it may deserve a place here, as a commendatory testimony,

which the modesty of Cook, it is probable, would scarcely have allowed

himself to expect. It is inserted, besides, with greater propriety, as

specifying one of the friends alluded to, of whom, in the capacity of

editor of Cook's third voyage, we shall have another opportunity of

speaking with the esteem due to his literary character, and his most

praise-worthy exertions in the service of both Cook and his family.

"Captain Cook was justly regarded as sufficiently qualified to relate

his own story. His journal only required to be divided into chapters,

and perhaps to be amended by a few verbal corrections. It is not

speaking extravagantly to say, that, in point of composition, his

history of his voyage reflects upon him no small degree of credit. His

style is natural, clear, and manly; being well adapted to the subject

and to his own character: and it is possible, that a pen of more

studied elegance would not have given any additional advantage to the

narration. It was not till some time after Captain Cook's leaving

England, that the work was published; but, in the meanwhile, the

superintendance of it was undertaken by his learned and valuable

friend, Dr Douglas, whose late promotion to the mitre hath afforded

pleasure to every literary man of every denomination." One cannot help

regretting, that Cook never returned to meet with the congratulations

of a highly-satisfied public, not invidiously disposed, it may readily

be imagined, and certainly having no occasion, to see any necessity

for the requested indulgences with which he concludes this

introduction.--E.

[18] Is it not both likely and somewhat allowable, that Cook should

speak of the _fine writer_ and _professed book-maker_, with

a feeling of disgust or irritation; more especially when he could not

but well remember, that his own simple personality had been made the

substratum for the flippant flourish of the one character, and the

unseemly protuberances of the other?--E.

CHAPTER I.[1]

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES THE FIRST

TIME.

SECTION I.

_Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account of

several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there._

I sailed from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich,

where I was detained by easterly winds till the 23d, when the ship fell

down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both

ships received on board their powder, guns, gunners' stores, and marines.

On the 10th of May we left Long Reach, with orders to touch at Plymouth;

but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank,

which made it necessary to put into Sheerness in order to remove this evil,

by making some alteration in her upper works. These the officers of the

yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and Sir

Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as might

effectually answer the purpose intended.

On the 22d of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed from

Sheerness; and on the 3d of July joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound.

The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta

yacht, (who was on his return from visiting the several dock-yards,) with

the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeen

guns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of the

very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board,

to satisfy themselves that every thing was done to my wish, and that the

ship was found to answer to my satisfaction.

At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directing

me to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of my way to

the island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed

to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, and

to take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might stand in need

of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed to the southward,

and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Monsieur

Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 54° S. and in about 11° 20' E. longitude

from Greenwich. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether

it was a part of the continent which had so much engaged the attention of

geographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved to

be the former, I was to employ myself diligently in exploring as great an

extent of it as I could, and to make such notations thereon, and

observations of every kind, as might be useful either to navigation or

commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was also

directed to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the

inhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, to

cultivate a friendship and alliance with them; making them presents of such

things as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and shewing them

every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself on

this service, and making discoveries either to the eastward or westward, as

my situation might render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as I

could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as

possible, so long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews,

and the state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserve

as much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I

was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape

Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not

be able to find the said Cape, I was in the first case to make the

necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, so

long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent,

which I was also to do in the latter case, and then to proceed to the

eastward in further search of the said continent, as well as to make

discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of

the southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting my

discoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as possible until I had

circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of Good

Hope, and from thence to Spithead.

In the prosecution of these discoveries, wherever the season of the year

rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to

some known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit the

ships; and to return again to the southward as soon as the season of the

year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised to

proceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution should

be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure.

I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furneaux, with an order

directing him to carry them into execution; and, in case he was separated

from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous;

Port Praya in the island of St Jago for the second; Cape of Good Hope for

the third; and New Zealand for the fourth.

During our stay at Plymouth, Messrs Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers,

made observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude,

longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces and watches in motion.

The latitude was found to be 50° 21' 30" N., and the longitude 4° 20' W. of

Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is every where to be understood as the

first meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and west to

180° each way. On the 10th of July the watches were set a-going in the

presence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of

the ships, and myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventure

were made by Mr Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; but

the other was made by Mr Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect,

as Mr Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, and

astronomer, on board each, of the ships, kept each of them keys of the

boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the

winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some other

officer, if at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any other

necessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The same day,

according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both ships were paid

two months wages in advance, and, as a further encouragement for their

going this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to them

to the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessaries

for the voyage.

On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound,

with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th anchored in

Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted the

garrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soon

after I went on shore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, the two Mr

Forsters, and Mr Wales. At our landing, we were received by a gentleman

from the vice-consul, Mr Sills, who conducted us to the house of Mr

Loughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This

gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr Forster to search the island for

plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and insisted on our

accommodating ourselves at his house during our stay.

The town of Funchiale, which is the capital of the island, is situated

about the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the same

name, in latitude 32° 33' 34" N., longitude 17° 12-7/8" W. The longitude

was deduced from lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to the

town by Mr Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 17° 10' 14" W. During

our stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef and

onions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for a

sea-store.

Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left

Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward with a fine gale

at N.E. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary isles. It is of a

height to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the latitude 28°

38' N., longitude 17° 58' W. The next day we saw the isle of Ferro, and

passed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. I judged it to lie in the

latitude of 27° 42' N. and longitude 18° 9' W.[2]

I now made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt. The

proportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of

the nineteen half barrels of the inspissated juice which we had on board,

were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated. The other four

were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented before

inspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit for

use, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight to one part in

twelve of water, (or in such other proportion as might be liked,) then stop

it down, and in a few days it will be brisk and drinkable. But the other

sort, after being mixed with water in the same manner, will require to be

fermented with yeast, in the usual way of making beer; at least it was so

thought. However, experience taught us that this will not always be

necessary: For by the heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship,

both sorts were at this time in the highest state of fermentation, and had

hitherto evaded all our endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be kept

from fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable article at sea.[3]

On finding that our stock of water would not last as to the Cape of Good

Hope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to stop

at St Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we

made the island of Bonavista, bearing S.W. The next day, we passed the isle

of Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya in the

island of St Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the bay bore

E.; the west point S.W. 1/2 S.; and the fort N.W. I immediately dispatched

an officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments, which was

granted. On the return of the officer, I saluted the fort with eleven guns,

on a promise of its being returned with an equal number. But by a mistake,

as they pretended, the salute was returned with only nine; for which the

governor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, having

completed our water, and got on board a supply of refreshments, such as

hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit, we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage.

Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of

the island of St Jago, in the latitude of 14° 53' 30" N. longitude 23° 30'

W. It may be known, especially in coming from the east, by the southernmost

hill on the island, which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a little

way inland, in the direction of west from the port. This mark is the more

necessary, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward, with a

sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley, and cocoa-nut trees behind,

which strangers may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The two

points which form the entrance of Port Praya Bay are rather low, and in the

direction of W.S.W. and E.N.E. half a league from each other. Close to the

west point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually breaks. The bay

lies in N.W. near half a league; and the depth of water is from fourteen to

four fathoms. Large ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which

depth the south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under the

west shore) will bear W. You water at a well that is behind the beach at

the head of the bay. The water is tolerable, but scarce; and bad getting

off, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got

here, are bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are

of the antelope kind, so extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing can

equal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep, are not much better.

Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish dollars

a-head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got from

the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of bullocks is

confined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege is granted, and

who keep an agent residing upon the spot.[4] The fort above mentioned seems

wholly designed for the protection of the bay, and is well situated for

that purpose, being built on an elevation, which rises directly from the

sea on the right, at the head of the bay.

We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale at

N.N.E. which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the next

day the wind and showers abated, and veered to the S. It was, however,

variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark gloomy

weather, and showers of rain.[5]

On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard,

and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the scuttles, from

whence it is supposed he had fallen; for he was not seen till the very

instant he sunk under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him

were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a

sober man and a good workman. About noon the next day, the rain poured down

upon us, not in drops but in streams. The wind, at the same time, was

variable and squally, which obliged the people to attend the decks, so that

few in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as

it gave us an opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. This heavy

rain at last brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours,

when it was succeeded by a breeze from S.W. Betwixt this point and S. it

continued for several days; and blew at times in squalls, attended with

rain and hot sultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, kept

generally from 79 to 82.[6]

On the 27th, spoke with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his

petty officers was dead. At this time _we_ had not one sick on board,

although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had,

which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent this, and

agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser and from Captain

Campbell, I took every necessary precaution by airing and drying the ship

with fires made betwixt decks, smoaking, &c. and by obliging the people to

air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an

opportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a disagreeable smell below,

affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on sickness, but more especially

in hot and wet weather.

We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far

from land; that is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land,

however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues.

On the 3Oth at noon, being in the latitude of 2° 35' N., longitude 7° 30'

W., and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked and

stretched to the S.W. In the latitude of 0° 52' N., longitude 9° 25' W., we

had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in a

boat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile an hour. We had

reason to expect this from the difference we frequently found between the

observed latitude, and that given by the log; and Mr Kendal's watch shewed

us that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunar

observations; when it appeared that we were 3° 0' more to the east than the

common reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in the

thermometer in the open air stood at 75-1/2; and when immerged in the

surface of the sea, at 74; but when immerged eighty fathoms deep (where it

remained fifteen minutes) when it came up, the mercury stood at 66.[7] At

the same time we sounded, without out finding the bottom, with a line of

two hundred and fifty fathoms.

The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S.W., which kept veering by

little and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south,

attended with clear serene weather. At length, on the 8th of September, we

crossed the Line in the longitude of 8° W.; after which, the ceremony of

ducking, &c., generally practised on this occasion, was not omitted.

The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top-

gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude 9° 30' S.,

longitude 18° W. The weather was pleasant; and we daily saw some of those

birds which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land; such as

boobies, man of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We supposed they came from

the isle of St Matthew, or Ascension; which isles we must have passed at no

great distance.

On the 27th, in the latitude of 25° 29', longitude 24° 54', we discovered a

sail to the west standing after us. She was a snow; and the colours she

shewed, either a Portuguese or St George's ensign, the distance being too

great to distinguish the one from the other, and I did not choose to wait

to get nearer, or to speak with her.

The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where it

remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the west

to the south, where it remained two days longer, and, after a few hours

calm, sprung up at S.W. But here it remained not long, before it veered to

S.E.E. and to the north of east; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showers

of rain.

With these winds we advanced but slowly; and, without meeting with anything

remarkable till the 11th of October, when, at 6h 24m 12s, by Mr Kendal's

watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed, and soon after we prepared

to observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz.

h. m. s.

By me at 6 53 51 with a common refractor.

By Mr Forster 6 55 23

By Mr Wales 6 54 57 quadrant telescope.

By Mr Pickersgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor.

By Mr Gilert 6 53 24 naked eye.

By Mr Hervey 6 55 34 quadrant telescope.

---------

Mean 6 54 46-1/2 by the watch.

Watch slow of apparent time 0 3 59

---------

Apparent time 6 58 45-1/2 end of the eclipse.

Ditto 7 25 0 at Greenwich.

---------

Dif. of longitude 0 26 14-1/2 == 6° 33' 30"

The longitude observed by Mr Wales, was

By the [Symbol: Moon] and Aquilae 5° 51' |

By the [Symbol: Moon] and Adebaran 6° 35 |Mean 6° 13' 0"

By Mr Kendal's watch 6° 53 7/8

The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try if

there was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we had

the wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some time

ceased to see any of the birds before-mentioned; and were now accompanied

by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c., and a small grey peterel, less

than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black stroke

across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birds

sometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes,

southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the tropics, or north

of the Line.

On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N.W., standing to the eastward, which

hoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third we

outsailed her.[8]

On the 21st, at 7h. 30m. 20s. a, m., our longitude, by the mean of two

observed distances of the sun and moon, was 8° 4' 30" E., Mr Kendal's watch

at the same time gave 7° 22'. Our latitude was 35° 20' N. The wind was now

easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to N. and N.W.

after some hours calm; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr Forster

shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we feasted the next day,

and found them exceedingly good. At the same time we saw a seal, or, as

some thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of

the isles of Tristian de Cunhah, being now nearly in their latitude, and

about 5° east of them.

The wind continued but two days at N.W. and S.W.; then veered to the S.E.,

where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N.W., which carried us to

our intended port. As we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which had

accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at least they did not come in

such numbers. Nor did we see gannets, or the black bird, commonly called

the Cape Hen, till we were nearly within sight of the Cape. Nor did we

strike sounding till Penguin Island bore N.N.E., distant two or three

leagues, where we had fifty fathom water. Not but that the soundings may

extend farther off. However, I am very sure that they do not extend very

far west from the Cape. For we could not find ground with a line of 210

fathoms, twenty-five leagues west of Table-Bay; the same at thirty-five

leagues, and at sixty-four leagues. I sounded these three times, in order

to find a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the west of the cape; but

how far I never could learn.

I was told before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well enough

acquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of Good Hope,

that I sailed at an improper season of the year; and that I should meet

with much calm weather, near and under the Line. This probably may be the

case some years. It is, however, not general. On the contrary, we hardly

met with any calms; but a brisk S.W. wind in those very latitudes where the

calms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of those tornadoes, so much

spoken of by other navigators. However, what they have said of the current

setting towards the coast of Guinea, as you approach that shore, is true.

For, from the time of our leaving St Jago, to our arrival into the latitude

of 1-1/2° N., which was eleven days, we were carried by the current 3° of

longitude more east than our reckoning. On the other hand, after we had

crossed the Line, and got the S.E. trade-wind, we always found, by

observation, that the ship outstripped the reckoning, which we judged to be

owing to a current setting between the south and west. But, upon the whole,

the currents in this run seemed to balance each other; for upon our arrival

at the Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept from

England, without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degree

less than that by observation.

At two in the afternoon on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of Good

Hope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E.S.E.,

distance twelve or fourteen leagues. At this time it was a good deal

obscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height, have been seen at

a much greater distance. We now crowded all the sail we could, thinking to

get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not be

accomplished, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on.

Between eight and nine o'clock, the whole sea, within the compass of our

sight, became at once, as it were illuminated; or, what the seamen call,

all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some degree, is very common;

but the cause is not so generally known. Mr Banks and Dr Solander had

satisfied me that it was occasioned by sea-insects. Mr Forster, however,

seemed not to favour this opinion. I therefore had some buckets of water

drawn up from alongside the ship, which we found full of an innumerable

quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's-head,

and quite transparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals,

when in their own proper element, though we could not perceive any life in

them: Mr Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things of

this nature, was now well satisfied with the cause of the sea's

illumination.[9]

At length day-light came and brought us fair weather; and having stood into

Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathom water.

We afterwards moored N.E. and S.W., Green Point on the west point of the

bay, bearing N.W. by W., and the church, in one with the valley between the

Table Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf, or Lion's Head, bearing S.W. by S., and

distant from the landing-place near the fort, one mile.

We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the captain of the port,

or master-attendant, some other officers belonging to the company, and Mr

Brandt. This last gentleman brought us off such things as could not fail of

being acceptable to persons coming from sea. The purport of the master

attendant's visit was, according to custom, to take an account of the

ships; to enquire into the health of the crews; and, in particular, if the

small-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all others, at the Cape,

and for these purposes a surgeon is always one of the visitants.

My first step after anchoring, was, to send an officer to wait on Baron

Plettenberg, the governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the

reasons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received a

very polite answer; and, upon his return, we saluted the garrison with

eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after I went on shore

myself, and waited upon the governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and

the two Mr Forsters. He received us, with very great politeness, and

promised me every assistance the place could afford. From him I learned

that two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had

discovered land, in the latitude of 48° S., and in the meridian of that

island, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay into

which they were about to enter, when they were driven off and separated in

a hard gale of wind, after having lost some of their boats and people,

which they had sent to sound the bay. One of the ships, viz. the La

Fortune, soon after arrived at the Mauritius, the captain of which was sent

home to France with an account of the discovery. The governor also informed

me, that in March last, two other French ships from the island of

Mauritius, touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean;

where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion.

Aotourou, the man M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have

returned with M. Marion, had he been living.

After having visited the governor and some other principal persons of the

place, we fixed ourselves at Mr Brandt's, the usual residence of most

officers belonging to English ships. This gentleman spares neither trouble

nor expence to make his house agreeable to those who favour him with their

company, and to accommodate them with every thing they want. With him I

concerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions, and all other

necessaries they wanted; which he set about procuring without delay, while

the seamen on board were employed in overhauling the rigging; and the

carpenters in caulking the ships' sides and decks, &c.

Messrs Wales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order to

make astronomical observations for ascertaining the going of the watches,

and other purposes. The result of some of these observations shewed, that

Mr Kendal's watch had answered beyond all expectation, by pointing out the

longitude of this place to within one minute of time to what it was

observed by Messrs Mason and Dixon in 1761.

Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland;

after a passage of between four and five months, in which one lost, by the

scurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men, and the other 41. They sent, on

their arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very dreadful

circumstances. It is remarkable that one of these ships touched at Port

Praya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and yet we got here

three days before her. The Dutch at the Cape having found their hospital

too small for the reception of their sick, were going to build a new one at

the east part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with great

ceremony while we were there.

By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I

thought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread we

wanted was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be collected

from different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of November before

we had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we could put to sea.

During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with fresh

beef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The

ships were caulked and painted; and, in every respect, put in as good a

condition as when they left England. Some alterations in the officers took

place in the Adventure. Mr Shank the first lieutenant having been in an ill

state of health ever since we sailed from Plymouth, and not finding himself

recover here, desired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the re-

establishment of his health. As his request appeared to be well-founded, I

granted him leave accordingly, and appointed Mr Kemp, first lieutenant in

his room, and Mr Burney, one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of Mr

Kemp.

Mr Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural history

and botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr Sparman, who understood

something of these sciences, having studied under Dr Linnæus. He being

willing to embark with us, Mr Forster strongly importuned me to take him on

board, thinking that he would be of great assistance to him in the course

of the voyage. I at last consented, and he embarked with us accordingly, as

an assistant to Mr Forster, who bore his expences on board, and allowed him

a yearly stipend besides.[10]

Mr Hodges employed himself here in drawing a view of the Cape, town, and

parts adjacent, in oil colours, which, was properly packed up with some

others, and left with Mr Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the Admiralty

by the first ship that should sail for England.

[1] The reader is desired to remember, that F. placed at a note refers

to Forster's Observations; G.F. to the younger Forster's Account of

the Voyage; and W. to Mr Wales' works. For notes signed E. the editor,

as formerly, must hold himself responsible. Thus much was thought

advisable to save unnecessary repetition. This opportunity is taken of

stating some circumstances respecting the two former works, of

consequence to the parties concerned, and not uninteresting to the

general reader. We are informed in the preface to G.F.'s work, that

when his father was sent out to accompany Captain Cook as a

naturalist, no particular rules were prescribed for his conduct, as

they who appointed him conceived he would certainly endeavour to

derive the greatest possible advantages to learning from his voyage;

that he was only directed therefore, to exercise all his talents, and

to extend his observations to every remarkable object; and that from

him was expected a philosophical history of the voyage, on a plan

which the learned world had not hitherto seen executed. His father,

accordingly, he says, having performed the voyage, and collected his

observations, in conformity to such opinion and expectations,

proceeded, on his return home, to accomplish the remaining task

allotted to him--writing the history of the voyage. It was first

proposed, we are told, that a single narrative should be composed from

his and Cook's papers, the important observations of each being

inserted, and ascertained by appropriate marks. Forster, in

consequence, received a part of Cook's journal, and drew up several

sheets as a specimen; but this plan was soon desisted from, as it was

thought more expedient that the two journals should be kept separate.

In fartherance, then, of this design, it is said, an agreement was

drawn up on the 13th of April, 1776, between Captain Cook and Mr

Forster, in the presence, and with the signature, of the Earl of

Sandwich, which specified the particular parts of the relations to be

prepared by each, and confirmed to both, jointly, the gift of the

valuable plates engraved at the expence of the Admiralty, and

generously bestowed on these two gentlemen in equal shares. Mr F. soon

afterwards presented a second specimen of his narrative to the Earl of

Sandwich, but was surprised to find that it was quite disapproved of,

though at last he was convinced that, as the word "narrative" had been

omitted in the above-mentioned agreement, he was not entitled to

compose a connected account of the voyage. He was, moreover, informed,

that if he chose to preserve his claim to half of the profits arising

from the plates, he must conform to the letter of that agreement. In

this he acquiesced for the benefit of his family; and accordingly,

though he had understood it was intended he should write the history

of the voyage, he found himself confined to the publication of his

unconnected philosophical observations. G. Forster adds, it hurt him

much to see the chief intent of his father's mission defeated, and the

public disappointed in their expectations of a philosophical recital

of facts; however, as he himself had been appointed his father's

assistant, and was bound by no such agreement as that which restrained

him, he thought it incumbent to attempt such a narrative as a duty to

the public, and in justice to the ample materials he had collected

during the voyage. "I was bound," he concludes, "by no agreement

whatever; and that to which my father had signed, did not make him

answerable for my actions, nor, in the most distant manner, preclude

his giving me assistance. Therefore, in every important circumstance I

had leave to consult his journals, and have been enabled to draw up my

narrative with the most scrupulous attention to historical truth."

Such is the defence which Mr G. Forster sets up in behalf of a

conduct, which it is certain was very differently construed by the

patrons of the expedition, whose indignant opinions were so far

regarded by the public, as to render the residence of both father and

son in England no longer pleasant or respectable. They left it and

went to the continent; though it is likely they were the more induced

to do so by certain family difficulties, and the ill effects of the

father's turbulent temper, which speedily lost him the friends his

uncommon abilities and erudition had procured. The reader who desires

information respecting these two singular men, and the sentiments

entertained in general as to their improper conduct in the matter of

the publication, may turn to the Supplement to the Encyclopaedia

Britannica. It is, however, but justice to inform him, that the

account there given, bears decisive indications of party bias in more

senses than one; and that the strongest assertions it contains as to

the share which Forster the father had in the publication, are not

supported on evidence sufficient for the conviction of any

unprejudiced mind. The writer of that article, as of several others in

that very valuable publication, appears to have given up his

imagination to the prevailing terrors of the times, and to have

become, at last, almost incapable of discriminating betwixt personal

delinquency and epidemic immorality--the misfortunes incident to

individuals in every age or country, and the evils arising out of the

erroneous creeds and systems of a particular time and place. A single

quotation from the article now alluded to, may be conducive to the

reader's favourable acceptance of that portion of the Forsters'

labours from which it is proposed to supply many of the succeeding

notes. "An account of the voyage was published in English and German,

by George Forster; and the language, which is correct and elegant, was

undoubtedly his; but those who knew both him and his father, are

satisfied that the matter proceeded from the joint stock of their

observations and reflections. Several parts of the work, and

particularly the elaborate investigations relative to the languages

spoken by the natives of the South Sea Islands, and the speculations

concerning their successive migrations, are thought to be strongly

impressed with the genius of the elder Forster." Before concluding

this note, it may be proper to say, that Mr Wales conceiving Mr G.

Forster had made some misrepresentations of certain facts, wrote some

remarks upon his book, to which Mr F. replied. This is said on the

authority of the Biog. Brit. for the writer himself has never seen

either of the productions alluded to. That work very candidly admits,

that the Forsters' books contain much curious and useful information.

It is probable, then, that the readers in general will concur with the

writer in discarding entirely all consideration of moral conduct as to

the agreement, and availing themselves of whatever of utility or

amusement the publication in question can afford.--E.

[2] The same day we observed several flying fishes, pursued by bonitos

and dolphins, rising out of the water in order to escape from them.

They were flying in all directions, and not against the wind only, as

Mr Kalm seems to think. Neither did they confine themselves to a

strait-lined course, but frequently were seen to describe a curve.

When they met the top of a wave as they skimmed along the surface of

the ocean, they passed through, and continued their flight beyond it.

From this time, till we left the torrid zone, we were almost daily

amused with the view of immense shoals of these fishes, and now and

then caught one upon our decks, when it had unfortunately taken its

flight too far, and was spent by its too great elevation above the

surface of the sea."--G.F.

[3] "About this time, the captain ordered the ship to be fumigated

with gunpowder and vinegar, having taken notice that all our books and

utensils became covered with mould, and all our iron and steel, though

ever so little exposed, began to rust. Nothing is more probable than

that the vapours, which now filled the air, contained some saline

particles, since moisture alone does not appear to produce such an

effect."--G.F.

There can be no doubt that the atmospherical air is capable of

sustaining marine salt in a state of solution, and of bearing it off

to great distances on land, where it serves important purposes in

animal and vegetable economy. The reader will be pleased with some

remarks on the subject in Robison's Account of Black's Lectures. The

air in the vessel, then, it will be readily imagined will contain it,

and hence, as it is known that it is gradually decomposed by iron, the

rust that was observed. The process of corroding the iron, &c. as it

is commonly called, would be much accelerated by moisture, as the

muriatic acid acts most powerfully on bodies capable of decomposing

water; and it is no less certain, that the heat of a tropical climate

would aid the operation. But it is difficult to explain how any

benefit could be derived from the fumigation said to be practised by

Cook on this occasion, otherwise than by producing dry warm air.

Indeed, many persons will imagine that the circumstances required

nothing more than free ventilation, and the occasional use of fires to

destroy moisture. Mr Forster takes particular notice of what is

mentioned in the text about the fermentation of the inspissated juice

of malt, or, as he calls it, essence of beer; and he says, that, by

the advice of his father, a vessel strongly fumigated with sulphur was

filled with it, and prevented the fermentation for a few days. He does

not explain on what principle, and perhaps was not acquainted with it.

The fact is, that sulphuric acid, which is produced by the burning of

sulphur, has the power of checking, or altogether destroying, the

fermentation of substances. In the present case, it seems, enough of

it had not been produced to answer the purpose effectually. Some other

acids have the same power. Hence the desideratum mentioned in the text

is easily supplied. The juice, it may be thought, will be changed by

the addition of a strong acid, and rendered unserviceable. There can

be no doubt, however, that when it is required for the purpose of

making beer, &c. means could be used to neutralize the acid that had

been added to it, without materially, or at all, affecting the juice

itself.--E.

[4] "When we made application to this indolent Don, by the governor's

direction, to be supplied with cattle, he indeed promised to furnish

us with as many as we wanted, but we never got more than a single lean

bullock. The company perfectly tyrannizes over the inhabitants, and

sells them wretched merchandize at exorbitant prices."--G.F.

This gentleman says there are very few white people in the Cape Verd

Islands; that he did not see more than five or six at St Jago,

including the governor, commandant, and company's agent; and that in

some of the islands even the governors and priests are taken from

among the blacks. He draws a moving picture of the wretched condition

of these forlorn islanders, under the indolent and yet oppressive

government of the court of Lisbon. Mr G.F. be it known, was peculiarly

sharp-sighted in discovering, and vehement in inveighing against,

every impolitic violation of human liberty. In the judgments of some

persons, he had imbibed too readily the intoxicating beverage of

revolutionary France. Many strong heads, it is certain, were not proof

against its effects.--E.

[5] "Before leaving Port Praya, Captain Cook invited the governor-

general and the commandant to dinner, and we staid on board in order

to act as interpreters on this occasion. The captain sent them his own

boat; but when it came on shore the governor begged to be excused,

because he was always affected with sickness on board any vessel,

whether at sea or in harbour. The commandant promised to come, but

having at first neglected to ask the governor's leave, the latter

retired to take his _siesta_, (or afternoon's repose,) and no one

ventured to disturb him."--G.F.

[6] "The heavy rains entirely soaked the plumage of a poor swallow,

which had accompanied us for several days past; it was obliged,

therefore, to settle on the railing of the quarter-deck, and suffered

itself to be caught. From the history of this bird, which was of the

common species, we may deduce the circumstances that bring solitary

land-birds a great way out to sea. It seems to be probable, that they

begin with following a ship, from the time she leaves the land; that

they are soon lost in the great ocean, and are thus obliged to

continue close to the ship, as the only solid mass in this immense

fluid expanse. If two or more ships are in company, it is also easy to

account for the expression of _meeting with_ land-birds at a great

distance from land, because they may happen to follow some other ship

from the shore, than that which carries the observer; thus they may

escape observation for a day or two, or perhaps longer, and when

noticed, are supposed to be _met with_ at sea. However, great storms

are sometimes known to have driven single birds, nay, vast flocks, out

to sea, which are obliged to seek for rest on board of ships at

considerable distances from any land. Captain Cook very obligingly

communicated to me a fact which confirms the above assertion. "Being

on board of a ship between Norway and England, he met with a violent

storm, during which a flight of several hundred birds covered the

whole rigging of the ship. Among numbers of small birds he observed

several hawks, which lived very luxuriously by preying on those poor

defenceless creatures."--G.F.

To record incidents such as these, will not seem unimportant or

injudicious to any one who knows the philosophical value of facts in

the formation of just theories.--E.

[7] "This morning, 5th September, I let down a thermometer, suspended

in the middle of a strong wooden case, of such a construction as to

let the water pass freely through it in its descent, but which shut

close the instant it began to be drawn up. By this means the

thermometer was brought up in a body of water of the same heat with

that it had been let down to. The results were as above."--W.

This opportunity may be used for introducing the following table and

remarks, which are certainly deserving attention. "To ascertain the

degree of _warmth_ of the sea-water, at a certain depth, several

experiments were made by us. The thermometer made use of, was of

Fahrenheit's construction, made by Mr Ramsden, and furnished with an

ivory scale; it was, on these occasions, always put into a cylindrical

tin case, which had at each end a valve, admitting the water as long

as the instrument was going down, and shutting while it was hauling up

again. The annexed table will at once shew the result of the

experiments.

| Degrees of Fahrenheit's | |Stay of |Time in|

| Thermometer. | |the |hauling|

|--------------------------| |Thermo- |the |

| |On the | |Depth |meter |Thermo-|

| In the |Surface |At a |in |in the |meter |

| Air. |of the |certain |Fathoms. |Deep. |up. |

Date |Latitude | |Sea. |Depth. | | | |

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

1772

Sept. 5 00°52'N. 75° 74° 66° 85 F. 30' 27-1/2'

Sept.27. 24°44'S. 72-1/2 70° 68° 80 F. 15' 7'

Oct. 12. 34°48'S. 60° 59° 58° 100 F. 2O' 6'

Dec. 15. 55°00'S. 30-1/2° 30° 34° 100 F. 17' 5-1/2'

Dec. 23. 55°26'S 33° 32° 34-1/2° 100 F. 16' 6-1/2'

1773

Jan. 13. 61°00'S. 37° 33-1/2° 32° 100 F. 20' 7'

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

From this table it appears, that under the Line and near the tropics,

the water is cooler at a great depth than at its surface. In high

latitudes, the air is cooler sometimes, sometimes very near upon a

par, and sometimes warmer than the sea-water at the depth of about 100

fathoms, according as the preceding changes of the temperature of the

air, or the direction and violence of the wind happen to fall out. For

it is to be observed, that these experiments were always made when we

had a calm, or at least very little wind; because in a gale of wind,

we could not have been able to make them in a boat. Another probable

cause of the difference in the temperature of the sea-water in the

same high latitude, undoubtedly must be sought in the ice; in a sea

covered with high and extensive ice islands, the water should be

colder than in a sea which is at a great distance from any ice."--F.

This table is evidently too confined, and made up of too few elements,

to justify almost any general inferences. The subject is certainly a

curious one, and merits full investigation, but presents very

considerable difficulties, as many circumstances, which are likely to

modify the result, may escape notice during the experiments. It has

been said, that as water is most dense at from 37 to 39 Fahrenheit,

this may be presumed to be the mean temperature at the bottom of the

sea; but such hypothetical deductions are, perhaps, entitled to little

confidence. It may however be safely enough presumed, that the

temperature of the sea is kept tolerably uniform on the well-known

principle of statics, that the heavier columns of any fluid displace

those that are lighter. The waters of the ocean, perhaps, are the

great agent by which the average temperature of our globe is preserved

almost entirely invariable. We shall have an opportunity, in the

account of another voyage, to make some remarks on this subject, and

to notice more exact experiments than those just now mentioned.--E.

[8] "On this day, we had an alarm that one of our crew was overboard,

upon which we immediately put about, but seeing nothing, the names of

all persons on board the vessel were called over, and none found

missing, to our great satisfaction. Our friends on board the

Adventure, whom we visited a few days after, told us they had indeed

suspected by our manoeuvre, the accident which we had apprehended, but

that looking out on the sea, Captain Furneaux had plainly observed a

sea-lion, that had been the cause of this false alarm."--G.F.

[9] Mr G.F. concludes his description of this well-known appearance in

the following very just remark: "There was a singularity, and a

grandeur in the display of this phenomenon, which could not fail of

giving occupation to the mind, and striking it with a reverential awe,

due to Omnipotence. The ocean covered to a great extent, with myriads

of animalcules; these little beings, organized, alive, endowed with

locomotive power, a quality of shining whenever they please, and

illuminating every body with which they come in contact, and of laying

aside their luminous appearance at pleasure; all these ideas crowded

upon us, and bade us admire the Creator, even in his minutest works."

However florid the language of this gentleman on the subject, his

account and opinions are strongly enforced by the recent discoveries

of the French naturalists related by Mr Peron, to which we shall

probably call the reader's attention hereafter.--E.

[10] Mr G.F. speaks with much more enthusiasm, as one might have

expected, of Dr Sparrman, extolling his talents and activity in the

course of science, but lamenting, at the same time, that this voyage,

on which he now set out, yielded much less matter for observation than

his ardent mind had anticipated. That gentleman's labours at the Cape,

it seems, however, especially in botany, were very successful; he and

Dr Thunberg having, it is said, gathered above a thousand species

entirely unknown before.--E.

SECTION II.

_Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern

Continent._

Having at length finished my business at the Cape, and taken leave of the

governor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very obliging

readiness, had given me all the assistance I could desire, on the 22d of

November we repaired on board; and at three o'clock in the afternoon

weighed, and came to sail with the wind at N. by W. As soon as the anchor

was up, we saluted the port with fifteen guns, which was immediately

returned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay by seven

o'clock, at which time the town bore S.E. distant four miles. After this we

stood to the westward all night, in order to get clear of the land, having

the wind at N.N.W. and N.W., blowing in squalls attended with rain, which

obliged us to reef our topsails. The sea was again illuminated for some

time, in the same manner as it was the night before we arrived in Table

Bay.

Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape Circumcision.

The wind continued at N.W. a moderate gale, until the 24th, when it veered

round to the eastward. On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude of

35° 25' S., and 29' west of the Cape; and had abundance of albatrosses

about us, several of which were caught with hook and line; and were very

well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at this time

served with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon come into cold

weather, I ordered slops to be served to such as were in want; and gave to

each man the fearnought jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty.

The wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, which

brought us into the latitude of 39° 4', and 2° of longitude west of the

Cape, thermometer 52-1/2[1] The wind now came to W. and S.W.; and on the

29th fixed at W.N.W., and increased to a storm, which continued, with some

few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December, when we were

in the latitude of 48° 41' S., and longitude 18° 24' E. This gale, which

was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that we

could carry no sails; by which means we were driven far to the eastward of

our intended course, and no hopes were left me of reaching Cape

Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune that attended us, was the loss of

great part of our live stock, which we had brought from the Cape, and which

consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. Indeed this sudden transition from

warm, mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, made every man in the ship

feel its effects. For by this time the mercury in the thermometer had

fallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. I now

made some addition to the people's allowance of spirit, by giving them a

dram whenever I thought it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do

the same. The night proved clear and serene, and the only one that was so

since we left the Cape; and the next morning the rising sun gave us such

flattering hopes of a fine day, that we were induced to let all the reefs

out of the top-sails, and to get top-gallant yards across, in order to make

the most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished; for

before eight o'clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thick

haze, accompanied with rain. The gale increasing obliged us to hand the

main-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to strike top-gallant yards. The

barometer at this time was unusually low, which foreboded an approaching

storm, and this happened accordingly. For, by one o'clock p. m. the wind,

which was at N.W., blew with such strength as obliged us to take in all our

sails, to strike top-gallant-masts, and to get the spritsail-yard in. And I

thought proper to wear, and lie-to, under a mizzen-stay-sail, with the

ships' heads to the N.E. as they would bow the sea, which ran prodigiously

high, better on this tack.

At eight o'clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, and lay on the other

tack; the gale was a little abated, but the sea ran too high to make sail,

any more than the fore-top-mast-stay-sail. In the evening, being in the

latitude of 49° 40 S., and 1-1/2° E. of the Cape, we saw two penguins and

some sea or rock-weed, which occasioned us to sound, without finding ground

at 100 fathoms. At eight p. m. we wore, and lay with our heads to the N.E.

till three in the morning of the 9th, then wore again to the southward, the

wind blowing in squalls attended with showers of snow. At eight, being

something more moderate, I made the Adventure signal to make sail; and soon

after made sail ourselves under the courses and close-reefed top-sails. In

the evening, took in the top-sails and main-sail, and brought-to under

fore-sail and mizzen; thermometer at 36°. The wind still at N.W. blew a

fresh gale, accompanied with a very high sea. In the night had a pretty

smart frost with snow.[2]

In the morning of the 10th we made sail under courses and top-sails close-

reefed; and made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. At

eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward of us, being then in the

latitude of 56° 40' S. and longitude 2° 0' E. of the Cape of Good Hope.

Soon after the wind moderated, and we let all the reefs out of the top-

sails, got the spritsail-yard out, and top-gallant-mast up. The weather

coming hazy, I called the Adventure by signal under my stern, which was no

sooner done, than the haze increased so much with snow and sleet, that we

did not see an island of ice, which we were steering directly for, till we

were less than a mile from it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, and

half a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its sides rose in a

perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke exceedingly high.

Captain Furneaux at first took this ice for land, and hauled off from it,

until called back by signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary to

proceed with caution. We therefore reefed our top-sails, and at the same

time sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to the

southward with the wind at north till night, which we spent in making short

trips, first one way and then another, under an easy sail; thermometer

these 24 hours from 36-1/2 to 31.

At day-light in the morning of the 11th, we made sail to the southward with

the wind at west, having a fresh gale, attended with sleet and snow. At

noon we were in the latitude of 51° 50' S., and longitude 21° 3' E., where

we saw some white birds about the size of pigeons, with blackish bills and

feet. I never saw any such before; and Mr Forster had no knowledge of them.

I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, and natives of these icy

seas.[3] At this time we passed between two ice islands, which lay at a

little distance from each other.

In the night the wind veered to N.W. which enabled us to steer S.W. On the

12th we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow; so that we were

obliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice islands. Six of

these we passed this day; some of them near two miles in circuit, and sixty

feet high. And yet, such was the force and height of the waves, that the

sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view which for a few moments

was pleasing to the eye; but when we reflected on the danger, the mind was

filled with horror. For were a ship to get against the weather-side of one

of these islands when the sea runs high, she would be dashed to pieces in a

moment. Upon our getting among the ice islands, the albatrosses left us;

that is, we saw but one now and then. Nor did our other companions, the

pintadoes, sheerwaters, small grey birds, fulmars, &c., appear in such

numbers; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two of

these birds were seen to-day.

The wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S.W., a fresh

gale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell,

so that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the southward,

passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw more penguins. At noon on

the 13th, we were in the latitude of 54° S., which is the latitude of Cape

Circumcision, discovered by M. Bouvet in 1739; but we were ten degrees of

longitude east of it; that is, near 118 leagues in this latitude. We stood

on to the S.S.E. till eight o'clock in the evening, the weather still

continuing thick and hazy, with sleet and snow. From noon till this time,

twenty ice islands, of various extent, both for height and circuit,

presented themselves to our view. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no

ground with 150 fathom of line.

We now tacked and made a trip to the northward till midnight, when we stood

again to the southward; and at half an hour past six o'clock in the morning

of the 14th, we were stopped by an immense field of low ice; to which we

could see no end, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of

this field were islands or hills of ice, like those we found floating in

the sea; and some on board thought they saw land also over the ice, bearing

S.W. by S. I even thought so myself; but changed my opinion upon more

narrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they made

when seen through the haze. For at this time it was both hazy and cloudy in

the horizon; so that a distant object could not be seen distinct.[4] Being

now in the latitude of 54° 50' S. and longitude 21° 34' E., and having the

wind at N.W. we bore away along the edge of the ice, steering S.S.E. and

S.E., according to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw many

whales, penguins, some white birds, pintadoes, &c.

At eight o'clock we brought-to under a point of the ice, where we had

smooth water: and I sent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had fixed

on rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters for the

better keeping company, he returned on board, and we made sail again along

the ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded fresh water. At

noon we had a good observation, and found ourselves in latitude 54° 55' S.

We continued a south-east course along the edge of the ice, till one

o'clock, when we came to a point round which we hauled S.S.W., the sea

appearing to be clear of ice in that direction. But after running four

leagues upon this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we found

ourselves quite imbayed; the ice extending from N.N.E. round by the west

and south, to east, in one compact body. The weather was indifferently

clear; and yet we could see no end to it. At five o'clock we hauled up

east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extreme

east point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S., over which appeared a

clear sea. We however spent the night in making short boards, under an easy

sail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30.

Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N.W., a small gale, thick foggy

weather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails and

rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that we

could not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty to avoid

the many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having but little

wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S.E.

near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in the

open air was at 32°, in the surface of the sea was at 30°; and, after being

immerged 100 fathoms deep for about fifteen or twenty minutes, came up at

34°, which is only 2° above freezing.[5] Our latitude at this time was 55°

8'.

The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day,

when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward, wind

still at N.W. a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before we

fell in with the main field of ice extending from S.S.W. to E. We now bore

away to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled off north, with the

wind at W.N.W., a gentle gale, attended with snow.

At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was again

obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which we

steered betwixt E. and S.S.W., hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes

of finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the ice closed.

We had a gentle gale at N.W. with showers of snow. At noon we were, by

observation, in the latitude of 55° 16' S. In the evening the weather was

clear and serene. In the course of this day we saw many whales, one seal,

penguins, some of the white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brown

and white, and not much unlike a pintado; and some other sorts already

known. We found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual;

and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that we

sailed amongst it the most part of the day; and the high ice islands

without us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no

ground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind to

the northward, as we could see the field of ice extend as far as N.E. But

this happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we were

obliged to tack to avoid it.

At two o'clock the next morning we stood again to the northward, with the

wind at N.W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on which we

stood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed, being then in

latitude 55° 8', longitude 24° 3'. The wind veering more to the north, we

tacked and stood to the westward under all the sail we could carry, having

a fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of short duration. For at

six o'clock it became hazy, and soon after there was thick fog; the wind

veered to the N.E., freshened and brought with it snow and sleet, which

froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the

field of ice: but at the same time we were carried in amongst the ice

islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty we

kept clear of.

Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowed

to call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to being

entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. The

great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting fast in

the ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men on

board that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them in a ship that

lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kind

of ice, which they called packed ice. What they called field ice is

thicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists of one piece.

Whereas this which I call field-ice, from its immense extent, consists of

many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from thirty or

forty feet square to three or four, packed close together, and in places

heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard for

a ship's side, that is not properly armed against it. How long it may have

lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. Such ice is found

in the Greenland seas all the summer long; and I think it cannot be colder

there in the summer, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly had

no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept

generally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of summer.

It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been speaking of, is formed in

bays and rivers. Under this supposition we were led to believe that land

was not far distant; and that it even lay to the southward behind the ice,

which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as we had now

sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a

passage to the south, I determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the

east, afterwards endeavour to get to the southward, and, if I met with no

land, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the matter out of

all manner of dispute. With this view, we kept standing to the N.W., with

the wind at N.E. and N., thick foggy weather, with sleet and snow, till six

in the evening, when the wind veered to N.W., and we tacked and stood to

the eastward, meeting with many islands of ice of different magnitudes, and

some loose pieces: The thermometer from 30 to 34; weather very hazy, with

sleet and snow, and more sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to

point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them

to support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets

(which were so short as to expose their arms) to be lengthened with baize;

and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas;

which proved of great service to them.

Some of our people appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, the surgeons

began to give them fresh wort every day, made from the malt we had on board

for that purpose. One man in particular was highly scorbutic; and yet he

had been taking the rob of lemon and orange for some time, without being

benefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain Furneaux told me, that he had

two men, who, though far gone in this disease, were now in a manner

entirely cured by it.[6]

We continued standing to the eastward till eight o'clock in the morning of

the 21st; when, being in the latitude of 53° 50', and longitude 29° 24' E.,

we hauled to the south, with the wind at west, a fresh gale and hazy, with

snow. In the evening the wind fell and the weather cleared up, so as that

we could see a few leagues round us; being in the latitude of 54° 43' S.

longitude 29° 30' E.

At ten o'clock, seeing many islands of ice a-head, and the weather coming

on foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in the

morning, when we stood again to the south. At eight, the weather cleared

up, and the wind came to W.S.W., with which we made all the sail we could

to the south; having never less than ten or twelve islands of ice in sight.

Next day we had the wind at S.W. and S.S.W., a gentle gale, with now and

then showers of snow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude of 55°

20' S., and longitude 31° 30' E., we hoisted out a boat to see if there was

any current, but found none. Mr Forster, who went in the boat, shot some of

the small grey birds before-mentioned, which were of the peterel tribe, and

about the size of a small pigeon. Their back, and upper side of their

wings, their feet and bills, are of a blue-grey colour. Their bellies, and

under side of their wings are white, a little tinged with blue. The upper

side of their quill feathers is a dark-blue tinged with black. A streak is

formed by feathers nearly of this colour, along the upper parts of the

wings, and crossing the back a little above the tail. The end of the tail

feathers is also of the same colour. Their bills are much broader than any

I have seen of the same tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad.

These blue peterels, as I shall call them, are seen no where but in the

southern hemisphere, from about the latitude of 28°, and upwards.

Thermometer at 33° in the open air, and 32° in the sea at the surface, and

at 34-1/2 when drawn, and 6-1/2 minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms

below it, where it had been sixteen minutes.

On the 24th, the wind blew from N.W. to N.E., a gentle gale, fair and

cloudy. At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 31' S, and

longitude 31° 19' E., the thermometer at 35. And being near an island of

ice, which was about fifty feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, I sent

the master in the jolly-boat to see if any water run from it. He soon

returned with an account that there was not one drop, or any other

appearance of thaw. In the evening we sailed through several floats, or

fields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S.E. and N.W.; at the same

time we had continually several islands of the same composition in sight.

On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N.E., by the east to south, it

blew a gentle gale; with which we stood to the W.S.W, and at noon were in

the latitude of 57° 50' S., and longitude 29° 32' E. The weather was fair

and cloudy; the air sharp and cold, attended with a hard frost. And,

although this was the middle of summer with us, I much question if the day

was colder in any part of England. The wind continued at south, blew a

fresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till near noon the next day, when we

had clear sun-shine, and found ourselves, by observation, in the latitude

of 58° 31' S., longitude 26° 57' E.

In the course of the last twenty-four hours we passed through several

fields of broken loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of a

considerable length, in the direction of N.W. and S.E. The ice was so close

in one, that it would hardly admit the ship through it. The pieces were

flat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and appeared of that sort of

ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. Others again were

different; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches, exactly like

coral rocks, and exhibiting such a variety of figures as can hardly be

conceived.

We supposed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately left;

and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind, if possible,

in order to satisfy myself whether or not it joined to any land, as had

been conjectured. With this view I kept on to the westward, with a gentle

gale at south, and S.S.W., and soon after six o'clock in the evening, we

saw some penguins, which occasioned us to sound; but we found no ground

with 150 fathoms.

In the morning of the 27th, we saw more loose ice, but not many islands;

and those we did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant, and

the sea smooth, we hoisted out a boat, from which Mr Forster shot a penguin

and some peterels. These penguins differ not from those seen in other parts

of the world, except in some minute particulars distinguishable only by

naturalists. Some of the peterels were of the blue sort, but differed from

those before-mentioned, in not having a broad bill; and the ends of their

tail feathers were tipped with white instead of dark-blue. But whether

these were only the distinctions betwixt the male and female, was a matter

disputed by our naturalists. We were now in the latitude of 58° 19' S.,

longitude 24° 39' E., and took the opportunity of the calm, to sound; but

found no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six in

the evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, which

afterwards increased to a fresh gale.

In the morning of the 28th I made the signal to the Adventure to spread

four miles on my starboard beam; and in this position we continued sailing

W.S.W., until four o'clock in the afternoon, when the hazy weather,

attended with snow showers, made it necessary for us to join. Soon after we

reefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with islands of ice. In

the morning of the 29th we let them out again, and set top-gallant-sails;

still continuing our course to the westward, and meeting with several

penguins. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 59° 12',

longitude 19° 1' E., which is 3° more to the west than we were when we

first fell in with the field of ice; so that it is pretty clear that it

joined to no land, as we conjectured.

Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of Cape

Circumcision, provided we met with no impediment, as the distance was not

more than eighty leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be

pretty clear of ice, I sent on board for Captain Furneaux, to make him

acquainted therewith, and after dinner he returned to his ship. At one

o'clock we steered for an island of ice, thinking if there were any loose

ice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. At

four we brought-to, close under the lee of the island, where we did not

find what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This piece of ice

was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards,

for we lay for some minutes with every sail becalmed under it. The side on

which the penguins were, rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit them to

creep up it.

It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and that

the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. The opinion may

hold good where there are no ice islands; but where such are, these birds,

as well as many others which usually keep near the shores, finding a

roosting-place upon these islands, may be brought by them a great distance

from any land. It will, however, be said, that they must go on shore to

breed, that probably the females were there, and that these are only the

males which we saw. Be this as it may, I shall continue to take notice of

these birds whenever we see them, and leave every one to judge for himself.

We continued our course to the westward, with a gentle gale at E.N.E., the

weather being sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy,

with snow. The thermometer for a few days past was from 31 to 36. At nine

o'clock the next morning, being the 30th, we shot one of the white birds,

upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up, and by that

means killed a penguin which weighed eleven pounds and a half. The white

bird was of the peterel tribe; the bill, which is rather short, is of a

colour between black and dark blue, and their legs and feet are blue. I

believe them to be the same sort of birds that Bouvet mentions to have seen

when he was off Cape Circumcision.

We continued our westerly course till eight o'clock in the evening, when we

steered N.W., the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned cape to

bear. At midnight we fell in with loose ice, which soon after obliged us to

tack, and stretch to the southward. At half an hour past two o'clock in the

morning of the 31st, we stood for it again, thinking to take some on board,

but this was found impracticable; for the wind, which had been at N.E, now

veered to S.E., and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with it such a sea

as made it very dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice. The danger

was yet farther increased by discovering an immense field to the north,

extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. farther than the eye could reach.

As we were not above two or three miles from this, and surrounded by loose

ice, there was no time to deliberate. We presently wore; got our tacks on

board; hauled to the south, and soon got clear; but not before we had

received several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the

largest sort, and among which we saw a seal. In the afternoon the wind

increased in such a manner, as to oblige us to hand the top-sails, and

strike top-gallant-yards. At eight o'clock we tacked and stood to the east

till midnight; when being in the latitude of 60° 21' S., longitude 13° 32'

E, we stood again to the west.

Next day, towards noon, the gale abated, so that we could carry close-

reefed top-sails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet and

snow, which froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented the whole with

icicles; the mercury in the thermometer being generally below the freezing

point. This weather continued till near noon the next day; at which time we

were in the latitude of 59° 12' S.; longitude 9° 45' E.; and here we saw

some penguins.

The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate, that we could

bear two reefs out of the top-sails. In the afternoon, we were favoured

with a sight of the moon, whose face we had seen but once since we left the

Cape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be formed of the sort of weather

we had since we left that place. We did not fail to seize the opportunity

to make several observations of the sun and moon. The longitude deduced

from it was 9° 34' 30" E. Mr Kendal's watch, at the same time, giving 10°

6' E., and the latitude was 58° 53' 30" S.

This longitude is nearly the same that is assigned to Cape Circumcision;

and at the going down of the sun we were about ninety-five leagues to the

south of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather was so

clear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leagues

distance. It is, therefore very probable, that what Bouvet took for land,

was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field-ice. We

ourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice-hills, the day we first fell

in with the field-ice. Nor was it an improbable conjecture, that that ice

joined to land. The probability was however now greatly lessened, if not

entirely set aside; for the space between the northern edge of the ice,

along which we sailed, and our route to the west, when south of it, no

where exceeded 100 leagues, and in some places not 60. The clear weather

continued no longer than three o'clock the next morning, when it was

succeeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. The wind also veered to N.E. and

blew a fresh gale, with which we stood to S.E. It increased in such a

manner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed top-sails. The

wind continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N.W., and was

attended with intervals of clear weather.

Our course was E. 1/4 N., till noon the next day, when we were in the

latitude of 59° 2' S., and nearly under the same meridian as we were when

we fell in with the last field of ice, five days before; so that had it

remained in the same situation, we must now have been in the middle of it,

whereas we did not so much as see any. We cannot suppose that so large a

float of ice as this was, could be destroyed in so short a time. It

therefore must have drifted to the northward: and this makes it probable

that there is no land under this meridian, between the latitude of 55° and

59°, where we had supposed some to lie, as mentioned above.

As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where we had been

before, I directed the course E.S.E. in order to get more to the south. We

had the advantage of a fresh gale, and the disadvantage of a thick fog;

much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rigging as it fell; so

that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice I ever saw.

This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to the

mind an idea of coldness, much greater than it really was; for the weather

was rather milder then it had been for some time past, and the sea less

encumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice so clogged the rigging,

sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly bad to handle. Our people,

however, surmounted those difficulties with a steady perseverance, and

withstood this intense cold much better than I expected.

We continued to steer to the E.S.E. with a fresh gale at N.W. attended with

snow and sleet, till the 8th, when we were in the latitude of 61° 12' S.,

longitude 31° 47' E. In the afternoon we passed more ice islands than we

had seen for several days. Indeed they were now so familiar to us, that

they were often passed unnoticed; but more generally unseen on account of

the thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, we came to one, which

had a quantity of loose ice about it. As the wind was moderate, and the

weather tolerably fair, we shortened sail, and stood on and off, with a

view of taking some on board on the return of light. But at four o'clock in

the morning, finding ourselves to leeward of this ice, we bore down to an

island to leeward of us; there being about it some loose ice, part of which

we saw break off. There we brought-to; hoisted out three boats; and in

about five or six hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of

good fresh water. The pieces we took up were hard, and solid as a rock;

some of them were so large, that we were obliged to break them with pick-

axes before they could be taken into the boats.

The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so trifling as not to be

tasted, and, after it had lain on deck for a short time, entirely drained

off; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly sweet and well-

tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into casks; some we

melted in the coppers, and filled up the casks with the water; and some we

kept on deck for present use. The melting and stowing away the ice is a

little tedious, and takes up some time; otherwise this is the most

expeditious way of watering I ever met with.[7]

Having got on board this supply of water, and the Adventure about two-

thirds as much (of which we stood in great need,) as we had once broke the

ice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want. I therefore

without hesitation directed our course more to the south, with a gentle

gale at N.W., attended, as usual, with snow showers. In the morning of the

11th, being then in the latitude of 62° 44' S., longitude 37° E., the

variation of the compass was 24° 10' W., and the following morning in the

latitude of 64° 12' S., longitude 38° 14' E., by the mean of three

compasses, it was no more than 23° 52' W. In this situation we saw some

penguins; and being near an island of ice from which several pieces had

broken, we hoisted out two boats, and took on board as much as filled all

our empty casks, and the Adventure did the same. While this was doing, Mr

Forster shot an albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown and

dark-grey, the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black,

and it had white eye-brows. We began to see these birds about the time of

our first falling in with the ice islands; and some have accompanied us

ever since. These, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill, were the

only albatrosses that had not now forsaken us.

At four o'clock p.m. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E.,

with a gentle breeze at S. by W., attended with showers of snow.

On the 13th, at two o'clock a. m. it fell calm. Of this we took the

opportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which we found to set

N.W. near one-third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current, a

Fahrenheit's thermometer was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms below its

surface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercury

stood at 32, which is the freezing point. Some little time after, being

exposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to 33-1/2, and in the open air

to 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when it was

succeeded by a light breeze from the S. and S.E., with which we stood to

the N.E. with all our sails set.

Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded. However,

at nine o'clock the next morning, it was clear; and we were enabled to

observe several distances between the sun and moon. The mean result of

which gave 39° 30' 30" E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time

gave 38° 27' 45" which is 1° 2' 45" W. of the observations; whereas, on the

3d instant, it was half a degree E. of them.

In the evening I found the variation by the

mean of azimuths taken with Gregory's

compass to be 28° 14' 0"

By the mean of six azimuths by one of Dr

Knight's 28 32 0

And by another of Dr Knight's 28 34 0

Our latitude at this time was 63° 57', longitude 39° 38-1/2"

The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 63° 33' S., the

longitude was observed by the following persons, viz.

Myself, being the mean of six distances of

the sun and moon 40° 1' 45" E.

Mr Wales, ditto 39 29 45

Ditto, ditto 39 56 45

Lieutenant Clerke, ditto 39 38 0

Mr Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45

Mr Smith, ditto 39 18 15

----------

Mean 39 42 12

Mr Kendal's watch made 38 41 30

which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr Wales and I

took each of us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopes

fixed to our sextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the same as

the watch.

The results were as follows:--By Mr Wales, 38° 35' 30", and by me, 38° 36'

45".

It is impossible for me to say whether these or the former are the nearest

to the truth; nor can I assign any probable reason for so great a

disagreement. We certainly can observe with greater accuracy through the

telescope, than with the common sight, when the ship is sufficiently

steady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a little

practice will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch, we shall be

able to discover the greatest error this method of observing the longitude

at sea is liable to; which at the greatest does not exceed a degree and a

half, and in general will be found to be much less. Such is the improvement

navigation has received by the astronomers and mathematical instrument-

makers of this age; by the former from the valuable tables they have

communicated to the public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude,

and contained in the astronomical ephemeris; and by the latter, from the

great accuracy they observe in making instruments, without which the tables

would, in a great measure, lose their effect. The preceding observations

were made by four different sextants, of different workmen. Mine was by Mr

Bird; one of Mr Wales's by Mr Dollond; the other and Mr Clerke's by Mr

Ramsden; as also Mr Gilbert's and Smith's, who observed with the same

instrument.

Five tolerably fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besides

giving us an opportunity to make the preceding observations, was very

serviceable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very seasonable

time. For, having on board a good quantity of fresh water, or ice, which

was the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry their clothes

and linen; a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages.

The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild.

Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 36; and was frequently

as low as the freezing point.

In the afternoon having but little wind, I brought-to under an island of

ice, and sent a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind freshened at

east, and was attended with snow showers and thick hazy weather, which

continued great part of the 16th. As we met with little ice, I stood to the

south, close hauled; and at six o'clock in the evening, being in the

latitude of 64° 56' S., longitude 39° 35' E. I found the variation by

Gregory's compass to be 26° 41' W. At this time the motion of the ship was

so great that I could by no means observe with any of Dr Knight's

compasses.

As the wind remained invariably fixed at E. and E. by S., I continued to

stand to the south; and on the 17th, between eleven and twelve o'clock, we

crossed the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39° 35' E., for at noon we

were by observation in the latitude of 66° 36' 30" S. The weather was now

become tolerably clear, so that we could see several leagues round us; and

yet we had only seen one island of ice since the morning. But about four

p.m. as we were steering to the south, we observed the whole sea in a

manner covered with ice, from the direction of S.E., round by the S. to W.

In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen,

besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one

piece, and bear up for another, and as we continued to advance to the

south, it increased in such a manner, that at three quarters past six

o'clock, being then in the latitude of 67° 15' S., we could proceed no

farther; the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent

from E. to W.S.W., without the least appearance of any opening. This

immense field was composed of different kinds of ice; such as high hills,

loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think,

Greenlandmen call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the S.E. of

us, of such extent, that I could see no end to it from the mast-head. It

was sixteen or eighteen feet high at least; and appeared of a pretty equal

height and surface. Here we saw many whales playing about the ice, and for

two days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes,

which we named Antarctic peterels, because they seem to be natives of that

region. They are, undoubtedly, of the peterel tribe; are in every respect

shaped like the pintadoes, differing only from them in colour. The head and

fore-part of the body of these are brown; and the hind-part of the body,

tail, and the ends of the wings, are white. The white peterel also appeared

in greater numbers than before; some few dark-grey albatrosses, and our

constant companion the blue peterel. But the common pintadoes had quite

disappeared, as well as many other sorts, which are common in lower

latitudes.

[1] "In the midst of this heavy gale, I tried Dr Lind's wind-gage, and

the water in it was depressed by the force of the wind 45/100 of an

inch." W. According to the same authority, it was equally depressed on

the 30th, and on the 1st December, it sunk 4/10 of an inch in the

squalls. Mr G.F. relates an interesting enough alarm that occurred

during this stormy weather. "A petty officer in the forepart of the

vessel, awaking suddenly, heard a noise of water streaming through his

birth, and breaking itself against his own and his mess-mates' chests;

he leaped out of his bed, and found himself to the middle of his leg

in water. He instantly acquainted the officer of the quarter-deck with

the dreadful circumstances, and in a few moments almost every person

was in motion; the pumps were employed, and the officers encouraged

the seamen with an alarming gentleness, to persevere in their work;

notwithstanding which the water seemed to gain upon us; every soul was

filled with terror, increased by the darkness of the night. The chain-

pumps were now cleared, and our sailors laboured at them with great

alacrity; at last one of them luckily discovered that the water came

in through a scuttle (or window) in the boatswain's store-room, which

not having been secured against the tempestuous southern ocean, had

been staved in by the force of the waves. It was immediately

repaired," &c. Incidents of this kind are not often related by a

commander, but they are useful to a reader by diversifying the records

of bearings, courses, &c. &c.--E.

[2] "At half past ten in the evening, some water which had been

spilled on the deck was frozen, and in the morning we passed the first

island of ice. It was not very high, was smooth on the top and sides,

and not rugged like those I have seen in the north seas." W.--Mr

Forster in his observations has entered into a very important

discussion respecting the formation of the ice islands, but it is

vastly too long for insertion in this place. Few readers, however, it

is likely, will object to see it elsewhere.--E.

[3] "They constantly appeared about the icy masses, and may be looked

upon as sure forerunners of ice. Their colour induced us to call them

the snowy peterels."--G.F.

[4] "We had already had several false alarms from the fallacious

conformation of fog-banks, or that of islands of ice half hid in snow

storms, and our consort the Adventure had repeatedly made the signals

for seeing land, deceived by such appearances: but now, the

imagination warmed with the idea of M. Bouvet's discovery, one of our

lieutenants, after having repeatedly been up to the mast-head, (about

six o'clock in the morning on the 14th,) acquainted the captain that

he plainly saw the land. This news brought us all upon deck: We saw an

immense field of flat ice before us, broken into many small pieces on

the edges, a vast number of islands of ice of all shapes and sizes

rose beyond it as far as the eye could reach, and some of the most

distant considerably raised by the hazy vapours which lay on the

horizon, had indeed some appearance of mountains. Several of our

officers persisted in the opinion that they had seen land here, till

Captain Cook, about two years and two months afterwards, (in February

1775,) on his course from Cape Horn towards the Cape of Good Hope,

sailed over the same spot, where they had supposed it to lie, and

found neither land nor even ice there at that time."--G.F.

[5] "While we were doing this, so thick a fog came on, that it was

with the utmost difficulty, and after some considerable time, that we

found the ships again."--W.

"Their situation in a small four-oared boat, on an immense ocean, far

from any habitable shore, surrounded with ice, and utterly destitute

of provisions, was truly terrifying and horrible in its consequences.

They rowed about for some time, making vain efforts to be heard, but

all was silent about them, and they could not see the length of their

boat. They were the more unfortunate, as they had neither mast nor

sail, and only two oars. In this dreadful suspence they determined to

lie still, hoping that, provided they preserved their place, the

sloops would not drive out of sight, as it was calm. At last they

heard the jingling of a bell at a distance; this sound was heavenly

music to their ears; they immediately rowed towards it, and by

continual hailing, were at last answered from the Adventure, and

hurried on board, overjoyed to have escaped the danger of perishing by

slow degrees, through the inclemencies of weather and through famine.

Having been on board some time, they fired a gun, and being within

hail of the Resolution, returned on board of that sloop to their own

damp beds and mouldering cabins, upon which they now set a double

value: after so perilous an expedition."--G.F.

[6] "The encomiums on the efficacy of malt cannot be exaggerated, and

this useful remedy ought never to be forgotten on board of ships bound

on long voyages; nor can we bestow too much care to prevent its

becoming damp and mouldy, by which means its salutary qualities are

impaired, as we experienced during the latter part of our voyage."--

G.F.

[7] "That water melted from the ice usually found floating in the sea

is fresh and good, is no new discovery. The Hudson's Bay ships have

long made use of it; and I have mentioned it, from my own experience,

in the account of a voyage to Hudson's Bay." _See Phil. Trans. vol.

60_.--W. This is a solitary but most unexceptionable evidence. Mr

Forster, in the article before alluded to, has not failed to point out

much more.--E.

SECTION III.

_Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the Meridian of

the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of the Separation of

the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay._

After meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent to

persevere in getting farther to the south; especially as the summer was

already half spent, and it would have taken up some time to have got round

the ice, even supposing it to have been practicable; which, however, is

doubtful. I therefore came to a resolution to proceed directly in search of

the land lately discovered by the French. And, as the winds still continued

at E. by S., I was obliged to return to the north, over some part of the

sea I had already made myself acquainted with, and, for that reason, wished

to have avoided. But this was not to be done, as our course made good, was

little better than north. In the night the wind increased to a strong gale,

attended with sleet and snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails.

About noon the next day the gale abated, so that we could bear all our

reefs out; but the wind still remained in its old quarter.

In the evening, being in the latitude of 64° 12' S., longitude 40° 15' E.,

a bird, called by us in my former voyage Port Egmont Hen, (on account of

the great plenty of them at Port Egmont in Falkland Isles,) came hovering

several times over the ship, and then left us in the direction of N.E. They

are a short thick bird, about the size of a large crow, of a dark-brown or

chocolate colour, with a whitish streak under each wing, in the shape of a

half-moon. I have been told that these birds are found in great plenty at

the Fero Isles, North of Scotland; and that they never go far from land.

Certain it is, I never before saw them above forty leagues off; but I do

not remember ever seeing fewer than two together; whereas here was but one,

which, with the islands of ice, may have come a good way from land.

At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E.N.E., we tacked and stood to the

S.S.E, but at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to its old

point, and we resumed our northerly course. One of the above birds was seen

this morning, probably the same we saw the night before, as our situation

was not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale increased, attended

with thick hazy weather, sleet, and snow, and at last obliged us to close-

reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards. But in the evening the

wind abated so as to admit us to carry whole top-sails, and top-gallant-

yards aloft. Hazy weather, with snow and sleet continued.

In the afternoon of the 21st, being in the latitude of 62° 24' S.,

longitude 42° 19' E., we saw a white albatross with black tipped wings, and

a pintado bird. The wind was now at S. and S.W., a fresh gale. With this we

steered N.E., against a very high sea, which did not indicate the vicinity

of land in that quarter; and yet it was there we were to expect it. The

next day we had intervals of fair weather, the wind was moderate, and we

carried our studding-sails.[1] In the morning of the 23d, we were in

latitude of 60° 27' S., longitude 45° 33' E. Snow showers continued, and

the weather was so cold, that the water in our water-vessels on deck had

been frozen for several preceding nights.

Having clear weather at intervals, I spread the ships a-breast four miles

from each other, in order the better to discover any thing that might lie

in our way. We continued to sail in this manner till six o'clock in the

evening, when hazy weather and snow showers made it necessary for us to

join.

We kept our course to N.E. till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th,

when the wind having veered round to N.E. by E., by the W. and N. we

tacked, and stood to N.W. The wind was fresh, and yet we made but little

way against a high northerly sea. We now began to see some of that sort of

peterels so well known to sailors by the name of sheerwaters, latitude 58°

10', longitude 50° 54' E. In the afternoon the wind veered to the southward

of east; and at eight o'clock in the evening, it increased to a storm,

attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow.

During night we went under our fore-sail and main-top-sail close-reefed: At

day-light the next morning, added to them the fore and mizen top-sails. At

four o'clock it fell calm; but a prodigious high sea from the N.E., and a

complication of the worst of weather, viz. snow, sleet, and rain,

continued, together with the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Then

the weather cleared up, and we got a breeze at S.E. by S. With this we

steered N. by E. till eight o'clock the next morning, being the 27th, when

I spread the ships, and steered N.N.E., all sails set, having a fresh

breeze at S. by W., and clear weather.

At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 28' S., and, about

three o'clock in the afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at intervals,

their distances were observed by the following persons; and the longitude

resulting therefrom was,

By Mr Wales, (the mean of two sets) 50° 59' East.

Lieutenant Clerke 51 11

Mr Gilbert 50 14

Mr Smith 50 50

Mr Kendal's watch 50 50

At six o'clock in the evening, being in latitude 56° 9' S., I now made

signal to the Adventure to come under my stern; and at eight o'clock the

next morning sent her to look out on my starboard beam, having at this time

a fresh gale at west and pretty clear weather. But this was not of long

duration; for, at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and hazy, the

wind increased to a fresh gale, blew in squalls attended with snow, sleet,

and drizzling rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to come under my

stern, and took another reef in each top-sail. At eight o'clock I hauled up

the main-sail, and run all night under the foresail, and two top-sails; our

course being N.N.E. and N.E. by N., with a strong gale at N.W.

The 29th, at noon, we observed in latitude 52° 29' S., the weather being

fair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became very thick

and hazy with rain; and the gale increased in such a manner as to oblige us

to strike top-gallant yards, close-reef and hand the top-sails. We spent

part of the night, which was very dark and stormy, in making a tack to the

S.W., and in the morning of the 30th, stood again to the N.E., wind at N.W.

and N., a very fresh gale; which split several of our small sails. This day

no ice was seen, probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clock

in the evening we tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses; but

as the sea run high, we made our course no better than S.S W.

At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little abated; and the

wind had backed to W. by S. We again stood to the northward, under courses

and double-reefed top-sails, having a very high sea from the N.N.W., which

gave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in search of. At noon

we were in the latitude of 50° 56' S., longitude 56° 48' E., and presently

after we saw two islands of ice. One of these we passed very near, and

found that it was breaking or falling to pieces, by the cracking noise it

made; which was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a good

deal of loose ice about it; and had the weather been favourable, I should

have brought-to, and taken some up. After passing this, we saw no more,

till we returned again to the south.

Hazy gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed at

N.W., so that we could make our course no better than N.E. by N., and this

course we held till four o'clock in the afternoon of the first of February.

Being then in the latitude of 48° 30', and longitude 58° 7' E., nearly in

the meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where we were to expect to

find the land said to be discovered by the French, of which at this time we

saw not the least signs, we bore away east.

I now made the signal to the Adventure to keep at the distance of four

miles on my starboard beam. At half an hour past six, Captain Furneaux made

the signal to speak with me; and upon his coming under my stern, he

informed me that he had just seen a large float of sea or rock weed, and

about it several birds (divers.) These were certainly signs of the vicinity

of land; but whether it lay to the east or west, was not possible for us to

know. My intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degrees

of longitude to the west of the meridian we were in, and then to have

carried on my researches to the east. But the west and north-west winds we

had had the five preceding days, prevented me from putting this in

execution.

The continual high sea we had lately had from the N.E., N., N.W. and W.,

left me no reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the West. We

therefore continued to steer to the east, only lying-to a few hours in the

night, and in the morning resumed our course again, four miles north and

south from each other; the hazy weather not permitting us to spread

farther. We passed two or three small pieces of rock weed, and saw two or

three birds known by the name of egg-birds; but saw no other signs of land.

At noon we observed in latitude 48° 36' S., longitude 59° 35' E. As we

could only see a few miles farther to the south, and as it was not

impossible that there might be land not far off in that direction, I gave

orders to steer S. 1/2 E., and made the signal for the Adventure to follow,

she being by this movement thrown a-stern: The weather continuing hazy till

half an hour past six o'clock in the evening, when it cleared up so as to

enable us to see about five leagues round us.

Being now in the latitude of 49° 13' S., without having the least signs of

land, I wore and stood again to the eastward, and soon after spoke with

Captain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to the N.W. of

us,; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth when the wind

blew in that direction. Athough this was not conformable to the remarks

_we_ had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the point, if the wind

would admit of my getting to the west in any reasonable time.

At eight o'clock in the morning of the 3d, being in the latitude of 48° 56'

S. longitude 60° 47' E., and upwards of 8° to the east of the meridian of

the Mauritius, I began to despair of finding land to the east; and as the

wind had now veered to the north, resolved to search for it to the west. I

accordingly tacked and stood to the west with a fresh gale. This increased

in such a manner, that, before night, we were reduced to our two courses;

and, at last, obliged to lie-to under the fore-sails, having a prodigious

high sea from W.N.W., notwithstanding the height of the gale was from N. by

W. At three o'clock the next morning, the gale abating, we made sail, and

continued to ply to the west till ten o'clock in the morning of the 6th.

At this time, being in the latitude of 48° 6' S., longitude 58° 22' E., the

wind seemingly fixed at W.N.W., and seeing no signs of meeting with land, I

gave over plying, and bore away east a little southerly: Being satisfied,

that if there is any land hereabout, it can only be an isle of no great

extent. And it was just as probable I might have found it to the E. as to

the W.

While we were plying about here we took every opportunity to observe the

variation of the compass, and found it to be from 27° 50' to 30° 26' W.

Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', is the nearest the

truth, as it nearly agrees with the variation observed on board the

Adventure. In making these observations, we found that, when the sun was on

the larboard side of the ship, the variation was the least; and when on the

starboard side, the greatest. This was not the first time we had made this

observation, without being able to account for it. At four o'clock in the

morning of the 7th, I made the Adventure's signal to keep at the distance

of four miles on my starboard beam; and continued to steer E.S.E. This

being a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and clothes spread on deck to

air; and the ship cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered a

point more to the south, being then in the latitude of 45° 49' S.,

longitude 61° 48' E. At six o'clock in the evening, I called in the

Adventure; and at the same time took several azimuths, which gave the

variation 31° 28'.W. These observations could not be taken with the

greatest accuracy, on account of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by a

very high westerly swell.

The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were seen; this morning

another appeared. In the evening, and several times in the night, penguins

were heard; and, at daylight in the morning of the 8th, several of these

were seen; and divers of two sorts, seemingly such as are usually met with

on the coast of England. This occasioned us to sound, but we found no

ground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our latitude now was 49° 53' S., and

longitude 63° 39' E. This was at eight o'clock. By this time the wind had

veered round by the N.E. to E., blew a brisk gale, and was attended with

hazy weather, which soon after turned to a thick fog; and, at the same

tine, the wind shifted to N.E.

I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun every

hour till noon; when I made the signal to tack, and tacked accordingly.

But, as neither this signal, nor any of the former, was answered by the

Adventure, we had but too much reason to think that a separation had taken

place; though we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. I had

directed Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruise

three days in the place where he last saw me. I therefore continued making

short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon,

when, the weather having cleared up, we could see several leagues round us,

and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. At

this time we were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the

situation we were in when we last saw her; and were standing to the

westward with a very strong gale at N.N.W., accompanied with a great sea

from the same direction. This, together, with an increase of wind, obliged

us to lie-to till eight o'clock the next morning, during which time we saw

nothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and

we had kept firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I therefore

gave over looking for her, made sail, and steered S.E., with a very fresh

gale at W. by N., accompanied with a high sea from the same direction.

While we were beating about here; we frequently saw penguins and divers,

which made us conjecture the land was not far off; but in what direction it

was not possible for us to tell. As we advanced to the south, we lost the

penguins, and most of the divers; and, as usual, met with abundance of

albatrosses, blue peterels, sheer-waters, &c.

The 11th, at noon, and in the latitude of 51° 15' S., longitude 67° 20' E.,

we again met with penguins: and saw an egg bird, which we also look upon to

be a sign of the vicinity of land. I continued to steer to the S.E., with a

fresh gale in the north-west quarter, attended with a long hollow swell,

and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The 12th, in the morning,

being in the latitude of 52° 32' S., longitude 69° 47' E., the variation

was 31° 38' W. In the evening, in the latitude of 53° 7' S., longitude 70°

50' E., it was 32° 33'; and, the next morning, in the latitude of 53° 37'

S., longitude 72° 10', it was 33° 8' W. Thus far we had continually a great

number of penguins about the ship, which seemed to be different from those

we had seen near the ice; being smaller, with reddish bills and brownish

heads. The meeting with so many of these birds, gave us some hopes of

finding land, and occasioned various conjectures about its situation. The

great westerly swell, which still continued, made it improbable that land

of any considerable extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable that

any lay to the north; as we were only about 160 leagues to the south of

Tasman's track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux would

explore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we saw a

Port Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N.E. by E., and the

next morning a seal was seen; but no penguins. In the evening, being in the

latitude of 55° 49' S., longitude 75° 52' E., the variation was 34° 48' W.,

and, in the evening of the 15th, in latitude 57° 2' S., longitude 79° 56'

E., it was 38° W. Five seals were seen this day, and a few penguins; which

occasioned us to sound, without finding any bottom, with a line of 150

fathoms.

At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we saw an island of ice to the

northward; for which we steered, in order to take some on board; but the

wind shifting to that direction, hindered us from putting this in

execution. At this time we were in the latitude of 57° 8' S., longitude 80°

59' E., and had two islands of ice in sight. This morning we saw one

penguin, which appeared to be of the same sort which we had formerly seen

near the ice. But we had now been so often deceived by these birds, that we

could no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon any other oceanic birds,

which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land.

The wind continued not long at north, but veered to E. by N.E., and blew a

gentle gale, with which we stood to the southward; having frequent showers

of sleet and snow. But, in the night, we had fair weather, and a clear

serene sky; and, between midnight and three o'clock in the morning, lights

were seen in the heavens, similar to those in the northern hemisphere,

known by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights; but I never heard

of the Aurora Australia been seen before. The officer of the watch observed

that it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form; then

its light was very strong, and its appearance beautiful. He could not

perceive it had any particular direction; for it appeared, at various

times, in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light throughout

the whole atmosphere.[2]

At nine in the morning, we bore down to an island of ice which we reached

by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at

least, though very little loose ice about it. But while we were considering

whether or no we should hoist out our boats to take some up, a great

quantity broke from the island. Upon this we hoisted out our boats, and

went to work to get some on board. The pieces of ice, both great and small,

which broke from the island, I observed, drifted fast to the westward; that

is, they left the island in that direction, and were, in a few hours,

spread over a large space of sea. This, I have no doubt, was caused by a

current setting in that direction. For the wind could have but little

effect upon the ice; especially as there was a large hollow swell from the

west. This circumstance greatly retarded our taking up ice. We, however,

made a shift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock,

when we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the east, inclining to the

south, with a fresh gale at south; which, soon after, veered to S.S.W. and

S.W., with fair but cloudy weather. This course brought us among many ice

isles; so that it was necessary to proceed with great caution. In the night

the mercury in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point;

and the water in the scuttle casks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken

notice of the thermometer of late, I shall now observe, that, as we

advanced to the north, the mercury gradually rose to 45, and fell again, as

we advanced to the south, to what is above-mentioned; nor did it rise, in

the middle of the day, to above 34 or 35.

In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57° 54' S., longitude

83° 14' E., the variation was 39° 33' W. In the evening, in latitude 58° 2'

S., longitude 84° 35' E., it was only 37° 8' W., which induced me to

believe it was decreasing. But in the evening of the 20th, in the latitude

of 58° 47' S., longitude 90° 56' E., I took nine azimuths, with Dr Knight's

compass, which gave the variation 40° 7', and nine others, with Gregory's,

which gave 40° 15' W.

This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude just

mentioned, we thought we saw land to the S.W. The appearance was so strong

that we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work up to it

accordingly; having a light breeze at south, and clear weather. We were,

however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds; which, in the

evening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear horizon, so that we

could see a considerable way round us; in which space nothing was to be

seen but ice islands.

In the night the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminous

appearance. It was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon; and,

in a short time, spread over the whole heavens.

The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, two

favourable circumstances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest ice

island before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in the

latitude of 59° S., longitude 92° 30' E.; having about two hours before

seen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity of loose ice, I

ordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on board. While this was

doing, the island, which was not less than half a mile in circuit, and

three or four hundred feet high above the surface of the sea, turned nearly

bottom up. Its height, by this circumstance, was neither increased nor

diminished apparently. As soon as we had got on board as much ice as we

could dispose of, we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E., with

a gentle breeze at N. by E., attended with showers of snow, and dark gloomy

weather. At this time we had but few ice islands in sight, but, the next

day, seldom less than twenty or thirty were seen at once.

The wind gradually veered to the east; and, at last, fixing at E. by S.,

blew a fresh gale. With this we stood to the south, till eight o'clock in

the evening of the 23d; at which time we were in the latitude of 61° 52'

S., longitude 95° 2' E. We now tacked and spent the night, which was

exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making short

boards. Surrounded on every side with danger, it was natural for us to wish

for day-light. This, when it came, served only to increase our

apprehensions, by exhibiting to our view those huge mountains of ice, which

in the night we had passed without seeing.

These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at this

advanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from putting in execution

a resolution I had taken of crossing the Antarctic Circle once more.

Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning, we stood to the north, with a

very hard gale at E.S.E., accompanied with snow and sleet, and a very high

sea from the same point, which made great destruction among the ice

islands. This circumstance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatly

increased the number of pieces we had to avoid. The large pieces which

break from the ice islands, are much more dangerous than the islands

themselves. The latter are so high out of water, that we can generally see

them, unless the weather be very thick and dark, before we are very near

them. Whereas the others cannot be seen in the night, till they are under

the ship's bows. These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to us,

that the apprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and were,

in some measure, compensated both by the seasonable supplies of fresh water

these ice islands afforded us, (without which we must have been greatly

distressed,) and also by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened

by the foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and caverns

which are formed in many of them; the whole exhibiting a view which at once

filled the mind with admiration and horror, and can only be described by

the hand of an able painter.[3]

Towards the evening the gale abated, and in the night we had two or three

hours calm. This was succeeded by a light breeze at west, with which we

steered east, under all the sail we could set, meeting with many ice

islands.

This night we saw a Port Egmont hen; and next morning, being the 25th,

another. We had lately seen but few birds; and those were albatrosses,

sheer-waters, and blue peterels. It is remarkable that we did not see one

of either the white or Antarctic peterels, since we came last amongst the

ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. and N.W. all day, we had a very

high sea from the east, by which we concluded that no land could be near in

that direction. In the evening, being in the latitude 60° 51', longitude

95° 41' E., the variation was 43° 6' W., and the next morning, being the

26th, having advanced about a degree and a half more to the east, it was

41° 30', both being determined by several azimuths.

We had fair weather all the afternoon, but the wind was unsettled, veering

round by the north to the east. With this we stood to the S.E. and E., till

three o'clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude of 61° 21' S.,

longitude 97° 7', we tacked and stood to the northward and eastward as the

wind kept veering to the south. This, in the evening, increased to a strong

gale, blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and thick hazy

weather, which soon brought us under our close-reefed top-sails.

Between eight in the morning of the 26th, and noon the next day, we fell in

among several islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had broken

as to cover the sea all round us, and render sailing rather dangerous.

However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the wind abated,

and veered to S.W. but the weather did not clear up till the next morning,

when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with but very few islands

of ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had destroyed a great number of

them. Such a very large hollow sea had continued to accompany the wind as

it veered from E. to S.W. that I was certain no land of considerable extent

could lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our situation between these two

points.

The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was at

about 35, which is something higher than it usually was in the same

latitude about a month or five weeks before, consequently the air was

something warmer. While the weather was really _warm_, the gales were

not only stronger, but more frequent, with almost continual misty, dirty,

wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A sow

having in the morning farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was killed by

the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithstanding all the care

we could take of them. From the same cause, myself as well as several of my

people, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather we

enjoyed!

The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and blew

a fresh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind, and soon after a

breeze sprung up at north, which quickly veered to N.E. and N.E. by E.,

attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. With this wind and

weather we kept on to the S.E., till four o'clock in the afternoon of the

next day, being the first of March, when it fell calm, which continued for

near twenty-four hours. We were now in the latitude of 60° 36' S.,

longitude 107° 54', and had a prodigious high swell from the S.W., and, at

the same time, another from the S. or S.S.E. The dashing of the one wave

against the other, made the ship both roll and pitch exceedingly; but at

length the N.W. swell prevailed. The calm continued till noon the next day,

when it was succeeded by a gentle breeze from S.E., which afterwards

increased and veered to S.W. With this we steered N.E. by E., and E. by N.,

under all the sail we could set.

In the afternoon of the 3d, being in latitude 60° 13', longitude 110° 18',

the variation was 39° 4' W. But the observations, by which this was

determined, were none of the best, being obliged to make use of such as we

could get, during the very few and short intervals when the sun appeared. A

few penguins were seen this day, but not so many islands of ice as usual.

The weather was also milder, though very changeable; thermometer from 36 to

38. We continued to have a N.W. swell, although the wind was unsettled,

veering to N.W. by the W. and N., attended with hazy sleet and drizzling

rain.

We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till three

o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when, (being in the latitude of 60°

37', longitude 113° 24') the wind shifting at once to S.W. and S.W. by S.,

I gave orders to steer E. by N. 1/2 N. But in the night we steered E. 1/2

S. in order to have the wind, which was at S.S.W., more upon the beam, the

better to enable us to stand back, in case we fell in with any danger in

the dark. For we had not so much time to spare to allow us to lie-to.

In the morning of the 5th, we steered E. by N., under all the sail we could

set, passing one ice island and many small pieces, and at nine o'clock the

wind, which of late had not remained long upon any one point, shifted all

at once to east, and blew a gentle gale. With this, we stood to the north,

at which time we were in the latitude of 60° 44' S., and longitude 116° 50'

E. The latitude was determined by the meridian altitude of the sun, which

appeared, now and then, for a few minutes, till three in the afternoon.

Indeed the sky was, in general, so cloudy, and the weather so thick and

hazy, that we had very little benefit of sun or moon; very seldom seeing

the face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under these

circumstances, the weather, for some days past, could not be called very

cold. It, however, had not the least pretension to be called summer

weather, according to my ideas of summer in the northern hemisphere, as far

as 60° of latitude, which is nearly as far north as I have been.

In the evening we had three islands of ice in sight, all of them large;

especially one, which was larger than any we had yet seen. The side opposed

to us seemed to be a mile in extent; if so, it could not be less than three

in circuit. As we passed it in the night, a continual cracking was heard,

occasioned, no doubt, by pieces breaking from it.[4] For, in the morning of

the 6th, the sea, for some distance round it, was covered with large and

small pieces; and the island itself did not appear so large as it had done

the evening before. It could not be less than 100 feet high; yet such was

the impetuous force and height of the waves which were broken against it,

by meeting with such a sudden resistance, that they rose considerably

higher. In the evening we were in latitude of 59° 58' S., longitude 118°

39' E. The 7th, the wind was variable in the N.E. and S.E. quarters,

attended with snow and sleet till the evening. Then the weather became

fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleasant, as well as

the morning of the next day; which, for the brightness of the sky, and

serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none we had seen since

we left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is little known in this sea;

and to make it still more agreeable, we had not one island of ice in sight.

The mercury in the thermometer rose to 40. Mr Wales and the master made

some observations of the moon and stars, which satisfied us, that, when our

latitude was 59° 44', our longitude was 121° 9'. At three o'clock in the

afternoon, the calm was succeeded by a breeze at S.E. The sky, at the same

time, was suddenly obscured, and seemed to presage an approaching storm,

which accordingly happened. For, in the evening, the wind shifted to south,

blew in squalls, attended with sleet and rain, and a prodigious high sea.

Having nothing to take care of but ourselves, we kept two or three points

from the wind, and run at a good rate to the E.N.E. under our two courses,

and close-reefed topsails.

The gale continued till the evening of the 10th. Then it abated; the wind

shifted to the westward; and we had fair weather, and but little wind,

during the night; attended with a sharp frost. The next morning, being in

the latitude of 57° 56', longitude 130°, the wind shifted to N.E., and blew

a fresh gale, with which we stood S.E., having frequent showers of snow and

sleet, and a long hollow swell from S.S.E. and S.E. by S. This swell did

not go down till two days after the wind which raised it had not only

ceased to blow, but had shifted, and blown fresh at opposite points, good

part of the time. Whoever attentively considers this, must conclude, that

there can be no land to the south, but what must be at a great distance.

Notwithstanding so little was to be expected in that quarter, we continued

to stand to the south till three o'clock in the morning of the 12th, when

we were stopped by a calm; being then in the latitude of 58° 56' S.,

longitude 131° 26' E. After a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at west,

with which we steered east. The S.S.E. swell having gone down, was

succeeded by another from N.W. by W. The weather continued mild all this

day, and the mercury rose to 39-1/2. In the evening it fell calm, and

continued so till three o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we got the

wind at E. and S.E., a fresh breeze attended with snow and sleet. In the

afternoon it became fair, and the wind veered round to the S. and S.S.W. In

the evening, being in the latitude of 58° 59', longitude 134°, the weather

was so clear in the horizon, that we could see many leagues round us. We

had but little wind during the night, some showers of snow, and a very

sharp frost. As the day broke, the wind freshened at S.E. and S.S.E.; and

soon after, the sky cleared up, and the weather became clear and serene;

but the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rose only

one degree above the freezing point.

The clear weather gave Mr Wales an opportunity to get some observations of

the sun and moon. Their results reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58°

22' S., gave us 136° 22' E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time

gave 134° 42'; and that of Mr Arnold the same. This was the first and only

time they pointed out the same longitude since we left England. The

greatest difference, however, between them, since we left the Cape, had not

much exceeded two degrees.

The moderate, and I might almost say, pleasant weather, we had, at times,

for the last two or three days, made me wish I had been a few degrees of

latitude farther south; and even tempted me to incline our course that way.

But we soon had weather which convinced us that we were full far enough;

and that the time was approaching, when these seas were not to be navigated

without enduring intense cold; which, by the bye, we were pretty well used

to. In the afternoon, the serenity of the sky was presently obscured: The

wind veered round by the S.W. to W., and blew in hard squalls, attended

with thick and heavy showers of hail and snow, which continually covered

our decks, sails, and rigging, till five o'clock in the evening of the

15th. At this time, the wind abated, and shifted to S.E.; the sky cleared

up; and the evening was so serene and clear, that we could see many leagues

round us; the horizon being the only boundary to our sight.

We were now in the latitude of 59° 17' S., longitude 140° 12' E., and had

such a large hollow swell from W.S.W., as assured us that we had left no

land behind us in that direction. I was also well assured that no land lay

to the south on this side 60° of latitude. We had a smart frost during the

night, which was curiously illuminated with the southern lights.

At ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, (which was as soon as the sun

appeared,) in the latitude of 58° 51' S., our longitude was 144° 10' E.

This good weather was, as usual, of short duration. In the afternoon of

this day, we had again thick snow showers; but, at intervals, it was

tolerably clear; and, in the evening being in the latitude of 58° 58' S.,

longitude 144° 37' E., I found the variation by several azimuths to be 31'

E.

I was not a little pleased with being able to determine, with so much

precision, this point of the Line, in which the compass has no variation.

For I look upon half a degree as next to nothing; so that the intersection

of the latitude and longitude just mentioned, may be reckoned the point

without any sensible error. At any rate, the Line can only pass a very

small matter west of it.

I continued to steer to the east, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale

at S.W., till five o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of

59° 7' S., longitude 146° 53' E., I bore away N.E., and, at noon, north,

having come to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes, and to

proceed to New Zealand to look for the Adventure, and to refresh my people.

I had also some thoughts, and even a desire to visit the east coast of Van

Diemen's Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New

South Wales.

In the night of the 17th, the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in squalls,

attended with thick hazy weather and rain. This continued all the 18th, in

the evening of which day, being in the latitude of 56° 15' S., longitude

150°, the sky cleared up, and we found the variation by several azimuths to

be 13° 30' E. Soon after, we hauled up, with the log, a piece of rock-weed,

which was in a state of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night the

southern lights were very bright.

The next morning we saw a seal; and towards noon, some penguins, and more

rock-weed, being at this time in the latitude of 55° 1', longitude 152° 1'

E. In the latitude of 54° 4', we also saw a Port Egmont hen, and some weed.

Navigators have generally looked upon all these to be certain signs of the

vicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion. At this time we

knew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New

Holland, or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 260 leagues. We

had, at the same time, several porpoises playing about us; into one of

which Mr Cooper struck a harpoon; but as the ship was running seven knots,

it broke its hold, after towing it some minutes, and before we could deaden

the ship's way.

As the wind, which continued between the north and the west, would not

permit me to touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand;

and, being under no apprehensions of meeting with any danger, I was not

backward in carrying sail, as well by night as day, having the advantage of

a very strong gale, which was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a very

large swell from the W. and W.S.W. We continued to meet with, now and then,

a seal, Port Egmont hens, and sea-weed.

On the morning of the 22d, the wind shifted to south, and brought with it

fair weather. At noon, we found ourselves in the latitude of 49° 55',

longitude 159° 28', having a very large swell out of the S.W. For the three

days past, the mercury in the thermometer had risen to 46, and the weather

was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude had made a surprising

difference in the temperature of the air, which we felt with an agreeable

satisfaction.

We continued to advance to the N.E. at a good rate, having a brisk gale

between the S. and E.; meeting with seals, Port Egmont hens, egg birds,

sea-weed, &c. and having constantly a very large swell from the S.W. At ten

o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New Zealand was seen from

the mast-head; and at noon, from the deck; extending from N.E. by E. to E.,

distant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dusky Bay, or any other port

I could find, on the southern part of _Tavai Poenammoo_, we steered in

for the land, under all the sail we could carry, having the advantage of a

fresh gale at W., and tolerably clear weather. This last was not of long

duration; for, at half an hour after four o'clock, the land, which was not

above four miles distant, was in a manner wholly obscured in a thick haze.

At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had mistaken

for Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it.

Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which we were all

strangers, and seeing some breakers and broken ground a-head, I tacked in

twenty-five fathom water, and stood out to sea with the wind at N.W. This

bay lies on the S.E. side of Cape West, and may be known by a white cliff

on one of the isles which lies in the entrance of the bay. This part of the

coast I did not see, but at a great distance, in my former voyage; and we

now saw it under so many disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I say

about it, the fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea, under

close-reefed top-sails and courses, till eleven o'clock at night; when we

wore and stood to the northward, having a very high and irregular sea. At

five o'clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for the land; at

eight o'clock, the West Cape bore E. by N. 1/2 N., for which we steered,

and entered Dusky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44

fathoms water, a sandy bottom, the West Cape bearing S.S.E., and Five

Fingers Point, or the north point of the bay, north. Here we had a great

swell rolling in from the S.W. The depth of water decreased to 40 fathoms,

afterwards we had no ground with 60. We were, however, too far advanced to

return; and therefore stood on, not doubting but that we should find

anchorage. For in this bay we were all strangers; in my former voyage,

having done no more than discover and name it.

After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the

isles which lay in it, I brought-to, and hoisted out two boats; one of

which I sent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand to

look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. We

then followed with the ship, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, so near the

shore as to reach it with an hawser. This was on Friday the 26th of March,

at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea; in which time

we had sailed 3600 leagues, without having once sight of land.

After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern latitude, it is

but reasonable to think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy.

The contrary, however, happened. Mention hath already been made of sweet

wort being given to such as were scorbutic. This had so far the desired

effect, that we had only one man on board that could be called very ill of

this disease; occasioned chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and a

complication of other disorders. We did not attribute the general good

state of health in the crew, wholly to the sweet wort, but to the frequent

airing and sweetening the ship by fires, &c. We must also allow portable

broth, and sour krout, to have had some share in it. This last can never be

enough recommended.

My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people a-

fishing; in the mean time, some of the gentlemen killed a seal, (out of

many that were upon a rock,) which made us a fresh meal.

[1] "The two time-keepers being put on each side of the great cabin, I

put a thermometer by each, and before a fire was kept in the cabin, I

never saw them differ more than half a degree; but since there has

been a fire, I have constantly found that thermometer highest, which

happened to be on the weather-side, sometimes by three degrees,

whereas one would naturally have expected it to have been just the

contrary."--W.

The rapidity of the current of moist air would be no doubt greater on

the other side, and therefore, as moisture occasions cold, would lower

the thermometer on that side. On the weather-side, on the contrary,

the air would be less quickly changed, and of course preserve greater

uniformity of temperature. This explanation, however, depends on a

certain supposition as to the form of the cabin, and its kind of

communication with the external air.--E.

[2] "The natural state of the heavens, except in the south-east

quarter, and for about ten degrees of altitude all round the horizon,

was a whitish haze, through which stars of the third magnitude were

just discernible. All round, the horizon was covered with thick

clouds, out of which arose many streams of a pale reddish light, that

ascended towards the zenith. These streams had not that motion which

they are sometimes seen to have in England; but were perfectly steady,

except a small tremulous motion which some of them had near their

edges.

"19th.--In the night the southern lights were very bright at times,

and the colours much more various and vivid than they were on

Wednesday night, their motion also was greater, so that on the whole

they were extremely beautiful.

"20th.--At nine o'clock in the evening, the southern light sprung up

very bright about the east point of the horizon, in a single steady

pillar, of a pale reddish light. Its direction was not directly towards

the zenith, but gradually deflected towards the south, and grew

fainter as it ascended, so as to vanish about south-east, and at

forty-five degrees of altitude.

"15th March.--The southern lights very bright at times, and exceeding

beautiful; their colours being vivid, and their motion quick and

curious.

"18th.--A little after nine o'clock in the evening it was very clear,

and the southern lights were exceeding bright and beautiful, and

appeared of a semi-circular or rainbow-like form, whose two

extremities were nearly in the east and west points of the horizon.

This bow, when it first made its appearance, passed a considerable way

to the north of the zenith; but rose by degrees, turning, as it were,

on its diameter, and passing through the zenith, settled at length

towards the southern horizon. These lights were at one time so bright,

that we could discern our shadows on the deck."--W.

It was thought proper to bring together all these similar remarks of

so accurate and faithful an observer. There is reason to believe that

the southern lights had never been seen by any navigator before this

voyage of Cook's.--E.

[3] "The shapes of these large frozen masses, were frequently

singularly ruinous, and so far picturesque enough; among them we

passed one of a great size, with a hollow in the middle, resembling a

grotto or cavern, which was pierced through, and admitted the light

from the other side. Some had the appearance of a spire or steeple;

and many others gave full scope to our imagination, which compared

them to several known objects, by that means attempting to overcome

the tediousness of our cruise, which the sight of birds, porpoises,

seals, and whales, now too familiar to our eyes, could not prevent

from falling heavily upon us."--G.F.

[4] "One island of ice, which we passed in the afternoon, was near a

mile and a half long, and very high. It was calm most part of the

night, so that we found ourselves very near it in the morning, but

observed that several very large pieces had broke off from it. Many

great reports, like thunder, were heard in the night, which I conceive

were occasioned by these pieces breaking off."--W.

SECTION IV.

_Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews with

the Inhabitants._

As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent Lieutenant

Pickersgill over to the S.E. side of the bay, to search for a better; and I

went myself to the other side, for the same purpose, where I met with an

exceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of notice. Mr Pickersgill

reported, upon his return, that he had found a good harbour, with every

conveniency. As I liked the situation of this, better than the other of my

own finding, I determined to go there in the morning. The fishing-boat was

very successful; returning with fish sufficient for all hands for supper;

and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as many as served for dinner.

This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article.

Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl; so that we

hoped to enjoy with ease, what, in our situation, might be called the

luxuries of life. This determined me to stay some time in this bay, in

order to examine it thoroughly; as no one had ever landed before, on any of

the southern parts of this country.

On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we got under sail with a light

breeze at S.W., and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it by a

channel scarcely twice the width of the ship; and in a small creek, moored

head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage,

which nature had in a manner prepared for us in a large tree, whose end or

top reached our gunwale. Wood, for fuel and other purposes, was here so

convenient, that our yards were locked in the branches of the trees; and,

about 100 yards from our stern, was a fine stream of freshwater. Thus

situated, we began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the

astronomer's observatory, the forge to repair our iron-work, tents for the

sail-makers and coopers to repair the sails and casks in; to land our empty

casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel; all of which were

absolutely necessary occupations. We also began to brew beer from the

branches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black-

spruce. From the knowledge I had of this tree, and the similarity it bore

to the spruce, I judged that, with the addition of inspissated juice of

wort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want

of vegetables, which this place did not afford; and the event proved that I

was not mistaken.

Now I have mentioned the inspissated juice of wort, it will not be amiss,

in this place, to inform the reader, that I had made several trials of it

since I left the Cape of Good Hope, and found it to answer in a cold

climate, beyond all expectation. The juice, diluted in warm water, in the

proportion of twelve parts water to one part juice, made a very good and

well-tasted small-beer. Some juice which I had of Mr Pelham's own

preparing, would bear sixteen parts water. By making use of warm-water,

(which I think ought always to be done,) and keeping it in a warm place, if

the weather be cold, no difficulty will be found in fermenting it. A little

grounds of either small or strong-beer, will answer as well as yeast.

The few sheep and goats we had left were not likely to fare quite so well

as ourselves; there being no grass here, but what was coarse and harsh. It

was, however not so bad, but that we expected they would devour it with

great greediness, and were the more surprised to find that they would not

taste it; nor did they seem over-fond of the leaves of more tender plants.

Upon examination, we found their teeth loose; and that many of them had

every other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and two

rams which I brought from the Cape, with an intent to put ashore in this

country, I had only been able to preserve one of each; and even these were

in so bad a state, that it was doubtful if they could recover,

notwithstanding all the care possible had been taken of them.

Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on a

shooting party; but, discovering inhabitants, they returned before noon, to

acquaint me therewith; for hitherto we had not seen the least vestige of

any. They had but just got aboard, when a canoe appeared off a point about

a mile from us, and soon after, returned behind the point out of sight,

probably owing to a shower of rain which then fell; for it was no sooner

over, than the canoe again appeared, and came within musket-shot of the

ship. There were in it seven or eight people. They remained looking at us

for some time, and then returned; all the signs of friendship we could make

did not prevail on them to come nearer. After dinner I took two boats and

went in search of them, in the cove where they were first seen, accompanied

by several of the officers and gentlemen. We found the canoe (at least

a-canoe) hauled upon the shore near to two small huts, where were several

fire-places, some fishing-nets, a few fish lying on the shore, and some in

the canoe. But we saw no people; they probably had retired into the woods.

After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses,

beads, &c. we embarked and rowed to the head of the cove, where we found

nothing remarkable. In turning back we put ashore at the same place as

before; but still saw no people. However, they could not be far off, as we

smelled the smoke of fire, though we did not see it. But I did not care to

search farther, or to force an interview which they seemed to avoid; well

knowing that the way to obtain this, was to leave the time and place to

themselves. It did not appear that any thing I had left had been touched;

however, I now added a hatchet, and, with the night, returned on board.

On the 29th, were showers till the afternoon; when a party of the officers

made an excursion up the bay; and Mr Forster and his party were out

botanizing. Both parties returned in the evening without meeting with any

thing worthy of notice; and the two following days, every one was confined

to the ship on account of rainy stormy weather.

In the afternoon of the 1st of April, accompanied by several of the

gentlemen, I went to see if any of the articles I had left for the Indians

were taken away. We found every thing remaining in the canoe; nor did it

appear that any body had been there since. After shooting some birds, one

of which was a duck, with a blue-grey plumage and soft bill, we, in the

evening, returned on board.

The 2d, being a pleasant morning, Lieutenants Clerke and Edgecumbe, and the

two Mr Forsters, went in a boat up the bay to search for the productions of

nature; and myself, Lieutenant Pickersgill, and Mr Hodges, went to take a

view of the N.W. side. In our way, we touched at the seal-rock, and killed

three seals, one of which afforded us much sport. After passing several

isles, we at length came to the most northern and western arms of the bay;

the same as is formed by the land of Five Fingers Point. In the bottom of

this arm or cove, we found many ducks, wood-hens, and other wild fowl, some

of which we killed, and returned on board at ten o'clock in the evening;

where the other party had arrived several hours before us, after having had

but indifferent sport. They took with them a black dog we had got at the

Cape, who, at the first musket they fired, ran into the woods, from whence

he would not return. The three following days were rainy; so that no

excursions were made.

Early in the morning on the 6th, a shooting party, made up of the officers,

went to Goose Cove, the place where I was the 2d; and myself, accompanied

by the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Hodges, set out to continue the survey of

the bay. My attention was directed to the north side, where I discovered a

fine capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river; on the

west side several beautiful small cascades; and the shores are so steep

that a ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose.

In this cove we shot fourteen ducks, besides other birds, which occasioned

my calling it Duck Cove.

As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview with three of the

natives, one man and two women. They were the first that discovered

themselves on the N.E. point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion.

We should have passed without seeing them, had not the man hallooed to us.

He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind

him, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each of them a

spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when we

approached the rock with our boat. He however stood firm; nor did he move

to take up some things we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up and

embraced him; and presented him with such articles as I had about me, which

at once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were joined by the two

women, the gentlemen that were with me, and some of the seamen. After this,

we spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side,

in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This

occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any

part of the world. We presented them with fish and fowl which we had in our

boat; but these they threw into the boat again, giving us to understand

that such things they wanted not. Night approaching, obliged us to take

leave of them; when the youngest of the two women, whose volubility of

tongue exceeded every thing I ever met with, gave us a dance; but the man

viewed us with great attention. Some hours after we got on board, the other

party returned, having had but indifferent sport.

Next morning, I made the natives another visit, accompanied by Mr Forster

and Mr Hodges, carrying with me various articles which I presented them

with, and which they received with a great deal of indifference, except

hatchets and spike-nails; these they most esteemed. This interview was at

the same place as last night; and now we saw the whole family, it consisted

of the man, his two wives (as we supposed), the young woman before

mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small children, the

youngest of which was at the breast. They were all well-looking, except one

woman, who had a large wen on her upper-lip, which made her disagreeable;

and she seemed, on that account, to be in a great measure neglected by the

man. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little way

within the skirts of the wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of the

bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small double one, just large enough

to transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek

near the huts. During our stay, Mr Hodges made drawings of most of them;

this occasioned them to give him the name of _Toe-toe_, which word, we

suppose signifies marking or painting. When we took leave, the chief

presented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing,

and some other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for the

presents I had made him; but he soon undeceived me, by expressing a desire

for one of our boat cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made for

him of red baise, as soon as I got aboard; where rainy weather detained me

the following day.

The 9th, being fair weather, we paid the natives another visit, and made

known our approach by hallooing to them; but they neither answered us, nor

met us at the shore as usual. The reason of this we soon saw; for we found

them at their habitations, all dressed and dressing, in their very best,

with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads,

and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round their

heads; and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears:

Thus dressed, and all standing, they received us with great courtesy. I

presented the chief with the cloak I had got made for him, with which he

seemed so well pleased, that he took his pattapattou from his girdle and

gave it me. After a short stay, we took leave; and having spent the

remainder of the day in continuing my survey of the bay, with the night

returned on board.

Very heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; but

the 12th proved clear and serene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry our

sails and linen; two things very much wanted; not having had fair weather

enough for this purpose since we put into this bay. Mr Forster and his

party also profited by the day in botanizing.

About ten o'clock, the family of the natives paid us a visit. Seeing that

they approached the ship with great caution, I met them in a boat, which I

quitted when I got to them, and went into their canoe. Yet, after all, I

could not prevail on them to put along-side the ship, and at last was

obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they put

ashore in a little creek hard by us; and afterwards came and sat down on

the shore a-breast of the ship, near enough to speak with us. I now caused

the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two first they did

not regard; but the latter caused some little attention in them; nothing

however could induce them to come on board. But they entered, with great

familiarity, into conversation (little understood) with such of the

officers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some

than to others; and these, we had reason to believe, they took for women.

To one man in particular, the young woman shewed an extraordinary fondness

until she discovered his sex, after which she would not suffer him to come

near her. Whether it was that she before took him for one of her own sex,

or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some liberties

with her which she thus resented, I know not.

In the afternoon, I took Mr Hodges to a large cascade, which falls from a

high mountain on the south side of the bay, about a league above the place

where we lay. He made a drawing of it on paper, and afterwards painted it

in oil colours; which exhibits, at once, a better description of it than

any I can give. Huge heaps of stones lay at the foot of this cascade, which

had been broken off and brought by the stream from the adjacent mountains.

These stones were of different sorts; none however, according to Mr

Forster's opinion, (whom I believe to be a judge,) containing either

minerals or metals. Nevertheless, I brought away specimens of every sort,

as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of it, seemed to consist of

those stones and no other. This cascade is at the east point of a cove,

lying in S.W. two miles, which I named Cascade Cove. In it is good

anchorage and other necessaries. At the entrance, lies an island, on each

side of which is a passage; that on the east side is much the widest. A

little above the isle, and near the S.E. shore, are two rocks which are

covered at high water. It was in this cove we first saw the natives.

When I returned aboard in the evening, I found our friends, the natives,

had taken up their quarters at about a hundred yards from our watering-

place; a very great mark of the confidence they placed in us. This evening

a shooting party of the officers went over to the north side of the bay,

having with them the small cutter to convey them from place to place.

Next morning, accompanied by Mr Forster, I went in the pinnace to survey

the isles and rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began first with

those which lie on the S.E. side of Anchor Isle. I found here a very snug

cove sheltered from all winds, which we called Luncheon Cove, because here

we dined on cray fish, on the side of a pleasant brook, shaded by the trees

from both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to the

outermost isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of which we killed and

brought away with us; and might have got many more, if the surf had

permitted us to land with safety on all the rocks. The next morning, I went

out again to continue the survey, accompanied by Mr Forster. I intended to

have landed again on the Seal Isles; but there ran such a high sea that I

could not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out to sea, and

round the S.W. point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately that

chance directed me to take this course, in which we found the sportsmen's

boat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment she would have been

dashed against the rocks. I was not long at a loss to guess how she came

there, nor was I under any apprehensions for the gentlemen that had been in

her; and after refreshing ourselves with such as we had to eat and drink,

and securing the boat in a small creek, we proceeded to the place where we

supposed them to be. This we reached about seven or eight o'clock in the

evening, and found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it was

low water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. As

this did not happen till three o'clock in the morning, we landed on a naked

beach, not knowing where to find a better place, and, after some time,

having got a fire and broiled some fish, we made a hearty supper, having

for sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stony

beach for a bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length the

tide permitted us to take off the sportsmen; and with them we embarked, and

proceeded for the place where we had left their boat, which, we soon

reached, having a fresh breeze of wind in our favour, attended with rain.

When we came to the creek which was on the N.W. side of Anchor Isle, we

found there an immense number of blue peterels, some on the wing, others in

the woods in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees and in the

crevices of rocks, where there was no getting them, and where we supposed

their young were deposited. As not one was to be seen in the day, the old

ones were probably, at that time, out at sea searching for food, which in

the evening they bring to their young. The noise they made was like the

croaking of many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad-bill kind,

which, are not so commonly seen at sea as the others. Here, however, they

are in great numbers, and flying much about in the night, some of our

gentlemen at first took them for bats. After restoring the sportsmen to

their boat, we all proceeded for the ship, which we reached by seven

o'clock in the morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I now

learned that our friends the natives returned to their habitation at night;

probably foreseeing that rain was at hand; which sort of weather continued

the whole of this day.

On the morning of the 15th, the weather having cleared up and become fair,

I set out with two boats to continue the survey of the N.W. side of the

bay, accompanied by the two Mr Forsters and several of the officers, whom I

detached in one boat to Goose Cove, where we intended to lodge the night,

while I proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and isles which lay

in my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a score of wild fowl,

and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party; and reaching the place

of rendezvous a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck-

shooting. They however soon returned, not overloaded with game. By this

time, the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required; and

after a hearty repast, on what the day had produced, we lay down to rest;

but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other

bout among the ducks, before we left the cove.

Accordingly, at day-light, we prepared for the attack. Those who had

reconnoitred the place before, chose their stations accordingly; whilst

myself and another remained in the boat, and rowed to the head of the cove

to start the game, which we did so effectually, that, out of some scores of

ducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all the rest down to

those stationed below. After this I landed at the head of the cove, and

walked across the narrow isthmus that disjoins it from the sea, or rather

from another cove which runs in from the sea about one mile, and lies open

to the north winds. It, however, had all the appearance of a good harbour

and safe anchorage. At the head is a fine sandy beach, where I found an

immense number of wood hens, and brought away ten couple of them, which

recompensed me for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through the wet

woods, up to the middle in water. About nine o'clock we all got collected

together, when the success of everyone was known, which was by no means

answerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was very unfavourable

for shooting, being rainy the most of the time we were out. After breakfast

we set out on our return to the ship, which we reached by seven o'clock in

the evening, with about seven dozen of wild fowl, and two seals; the most

of them shot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coves

which I found in my way; every place affording something, especially to us,

to whom nothing came amiss.

It rained all the 17th, but the 18th bringing fair and clear weather, in

the evening our friends, the natives before-mentioned, paid us another

visit; and, the next morning, the chief and his daughter were induced to

come on board, while the others went out in the canoe fishing. Before they

came on board I shewed them our goats and sheep that were on shore, which

they viewed for a moment with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this I

conducted them to the brow; but before the chief set his foot upon it to

come into the ship, he took a small green branch in his hand, with which he

struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. When

this was over, he threw the branch into the main chains, and came on board.

This custom and manner of making peace, as it were, is practised by all the

nations in the South Seas that I have seen.

I took them both down into the cabin, where we were to breakfast. They sat

at table with us, but would not taste any of our victuals. The chief wanted

to know where we slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin,

every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it was not possible

to fix his attention to any one thing a single moment. The works of art

appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were as far

removed beyond his comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the

number and strength of our decks, and other parts of the ship. The chief,

before he came aboard, presented me with a piece of cloth and a green talc

hatchet; to Mr Forster he also gave a piece or cloth; and the girl gave

another to Mr Hodges. This custom of making presents before they receive

any, is common with the natives of the South Sea isles; but I never saw it

practised in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles I gave my

guest, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes.

These he never would suffer to go out of his hands after he once laid hold

of them; whereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down any

where, and at last leave them behind him.

As soon as I could get quit of them, they were conducted into the gun-room,

where I left them, and set out with two boats to examine the head of the

bay; myself in one, accompanied by Mr Forster and Mr Hodges, and Lieutenant

Cooper in the other. We proceeded up the south side, and without meeting

with any thing remarkable, got to the head of the bay by sun-set; where we

took up our lodging for the night, at the first place we could land upon;

for the flats hindered us from getting quite to the head.

At day-light in the morning, I took two men in the small boat, and with Mr

Forster went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, near

to where we spent the night. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat to

meet us on the other side; but had not been long on shore before we saw

some ducks, which, by their creeping through the bushes, we got a shot at,

and killed one. The moment we had fired, the natives, whom we had not

discovered before, set up a most hideous noise in two or three places close

by us. We hallooed in our turn; and, at the same time, retired to our boat,

which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise,

but did not follow us. Indeed we found afterwards that they could not,

because of a branch of the river between us and them, nor did we find their

numbers answerable to the noise they made. As soon as we got to our boat,

and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and was

soon after joined by Mr Cooper in the other boat. With this reinforcement I

proceeded up the river, shooting wild ducks, of which there were great

numbers; as we went along, now and then hearing the natives in the woods.

At length two appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman; and

the latter kept waving something white in her hand, as a sign of

friendship. Mr Cooper being near them, I called to him to land, as I wanted

to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up as possible, which did

not much exceed half a mile, when I was stopped by the strength of the

stream and great stones which lay in the bed of the river.

On my return, I found that as Mr Cooper did not land when the natives

expected him, they had retired into the woods, but two others now appeared

on the opposite bank. I endeavoured to have an interview with them, but

this I could not effect. For as I approached the shore, they always retired

farther into the woods, which were so thick as to cover them from our

sight. The falling tide obliged me to retire out of the river to the place

where we had spent the night. There we breakfasted, and afterwards

embarked, in order to return on board; but, just as we were going, we saw

two men on the opposite shore, hallooing to us, which induced me to row

over to them. I landed with two others, unarmed; the two natives standing

about 100 yards from the water-side, with each a spear in his hand. When we

three advanced, they retired; but stood when I advanced alone.

It was some little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down their

spears. This, at last, one of them did; and met me with a grass plant in

his hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other.

Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which I

understood, and made some long pauses, waiting, as I thought, for me to

answer; for, when I spoke, he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over,

which was not long, we saluted each other. He then took his hahou, or coat,

from off his own back, and put it upon mine; after which peace seemed

firmly established. More people joining us did not in the least alarm them;

on the contrary, they saluted every one as he came up.

I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me: Perhaps

these were the most valuable things I could give them, at least they were

the most useful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us they

would give us something to eat; and I was sorry that the tide and other

circumstances would not permit me to accept of their invitation. More

people were seen in the skirts of the wood, but none of them joined us:

Probably these were their wives and children. When we took leave they

followed us to our boat; and, seeing the musquets lying across the stern,

they made signs for them to be taken away, which being done, they came

alongside, and assisted us to launch her. At this time it was necessary for

us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away every thing they

could lay their hands upon, except the muskets. These they took care not to

touch, being taught, by the slaughter they had seen us make among the wild-

fowl, to look upon them as instruments of death.

We saw no canoes or other boats with them, two or three logs of wood tied

together served the same purpose, and were indeed sufficient for the

navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. There fish and

fowl were in such plenty, that they had no occasion to go far for food; and

they have but few neighbours to disturb them. The whole number at this

place, I believe, does not exceed three families.

It was noon when we took leave of these two men, and proceeded down the

north side of the bay, which I explored in my way, and the isles that lie

in the middle. Night, however, overtook us, and obliged me to leave one arm

unlooked into, and hasten to the ship, which we reached by eight o'clock. I

then learnt that the man and his daughter stayed on board the day before

till noon; and that having understood from our people what things were left

in Cascade Cove, the place where they were first seen, he sent and took

them away. He and his family remained near us till today, when they all

went away, and we saw them no more; which was the more extraordinary, as he

never left us empty-handed. From one or another he did not get less than

nine or ten hatchets, three or four times that number of large spike-nails,

besides many other articles. So far as these things may be counted riches

in New Zealand, he exceeds every man there; being, at this time, possessed

of more hatchets and axes than are in the whole country besides.

In the afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal-

hunting. The surf ran so high that we could only land in one place, where

we killed ten. These animals served us for three purposes; the skins we

made use of for our rigging; the fat gave oil for our lamps; and the flesh

we eat. Their haslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of some of

them eats little inferior to beef-steaks. The following day nothing worthy

of notice was done.

In the morning of the 23d, Mr Pickersgill, Mr Gilbert, and two others, went

to the Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit of

which they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could see by the

fire they made. In the evening they returned on board, and reported that

inland, nothing was to be seen but barren mountains, with huge craggy

precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. On

the southeast side of Cape West, four miles out at sea, they discovered a

ridge of rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe these rocks

to be the same we saw the evening we first fell in with the land.

Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope,

I went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account,)

where I left them. I chose this place for two reasons; first, here are no

inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, here being the most food, I

make no doubt but that they will breed, and may in time spread over the

whole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent the

day shooting in and about the cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clock

in the evening. One of the party shot a white hern, which agreed exactly

with Mr Pennant's description, in his British Zoology, of the white herns

that either now are, or were formerly, in England.

The 20th was the eighth fair day we had had successively; a circumstance, I

believe, very uncommon in this place, especially at this season of the

year. This fair weather gave us an opportunity to complete our wood and

water, to overhaul the rigging, caulk the ship, and put her in a condition

for sea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end; for it began to rain

this evening, and continued without intermission till noon the next day,

when we cast off the shore fasts, hove the ship out of the creek to her

anchor, and steadied her with an hawser to the shore.

On the 27th, hazy weather, with showers of rain. In the morning I set out,

accompanied by Mr Pickersgill and the two Mr Forsters, to explore the arm

or inlet I discovered the day I returned from the head of the bay. After

rowing about two leagues up it, or rather down, I found it to communicate

with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the north

than the one I came in by. After making this discovery, and refreshing

ourselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, we set out for the ship, and got

on board at eleven o'clock at night, leaving two arms we had discovered,

and which ran into the east, unexplored. In this expedition we shot forty-

four birds, sea-pies, ducks, &c., without going one foot out of our way, or

causing any other delay than picking them up.

Having got the tents, and every other article on board on the 28th, we only

now waited for a wind to carry us out of the harbour, and through New

Passage, the way I proposed to go to sea. Every thing being removed from

the shore, I set fire to the top-wood, &c., in order to dry a piece of the

ground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and sowed with

several sorts of garden seeds. The soil was such as did not promise success

to the planter; it was, however, the best we could find. At two o clock in

the afternoon, we weighed with a light breeze at S.W., and stood up the bay

for the New Passage. Soon after we had got through, between the east end of

Indian Island and the west end of Long Island, it fell calm, which obliged

us to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the north side of the

latter island.

In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze at west,

which, together with all our boats a-head towing, was hardly sufficient to

stem the current. For, after struggling till six o'clock in the evening,

and not getting more than five miles from our last anchoring-place, we

anchored under the north side of Long Island, not more than one hundred

yards from the shore, to which we fastened a hawser.

At day-light next morning, May 1st, we got again under sail, and attempted

to work to windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At first we gained

ground, but at last the breeze died away; when we soon lost more than we

had got, and were obliged to bear up for a cove on the north side of Long

Island, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water, a muddy bottom: In this

cove we found two huts not long since inhabited; and near them two very

large fire-places or ovens, such as they have in the Society Isles. In this

cove we were detained by calms, attended with continual rain, till the 4th

in the afternoon, when, with the assistance of a small breeze at south-

west, we got the length of the reach or passage leading to sea. The breeze

then left us, and we anchored under the east point, before a sandy beach,

in thirty fathoms water; but this anchoring-place hath nothing to recommend

it like the one we came from, which hath every thing in its favour.

In the night we had some very heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain,

hail, and snow, and some thunder. Daylight exhibited to our view all the

hills and mountains covered with snow. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a

light breeze sprung up at S.S.W., which, with the help of our boats,

carried us down the passage to our intended anchor-place, where, at eight

o'clock, we anchored in sixteen fathoms water, and moored with a hawser to

the shore, under the first point on the starboard side as you come in from

sea, from which we were covered by the point.

In the morning of the 6th, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill, accompanied by

the two Mr Forsters, to explore the second arm which turns in to the east,

myself being confined on board by a cold. At the same time I had every

thing got up from between decks, the decks well cleaned and well aired with

fires; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moist weather.

The fair weather, which had continued all this day, was succeeded in the

night by a storm from north-west, which blew in hard squalls, attended with

rain, and obliged us to strike top-gallant and lower yards, and to carry

out another hawser to the shore. The bad weather continued the whole day

and the succeeding night, after which it fell calm with fair weather.

At seven in the morning, on the 8th, Mr Pickersgill returned, together with

his companions, in no very good plight, having been at the head of the arm

he was sent to explore, which he judged to extend in to the eastward about

eight miles. In it is a good anchoring-place, wood, fresh water, wild fowl,

and fish. At nine o'clock I set out to explore the other inlet, or the one

next the sea; and ordered Mr Gilbert, the master, to go and examine the

passage out to sea, while those on board were getting every thing in

readiness to depart. I proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in the

afternoon, when bad weather obliged me to return before I had seen the end

of it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the sea-coast, I was of

opinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or some other

inlet to the northward. Appearances were, however, against this opinion,

and the bad weather hindered me from determining the point, although a few

hours would have done it. I was about ten miles up, and thought I saw the

end of it: I found on the north side three coves, in which, as also on the

south side, between the main and the isles that lie four miles up the

inlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what else can be expected, such

as fish and wild fowl: Of the latter, we killed in this excursion, three

dozen. After a very hard row, against both wind and rain, we got on board

about nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on our backs.

This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when it

became fair, and the sky cleared up. But, as we had not wind to carry us to

sea, we made up two shooting parties; myself, accompanied by the two

Mr. Forsters and some others, went to the area I was in the day before;

and the other party to the coves and isles Mr Gilbert had discovered when

he was out, and where he found many wild fowl. We had a pleasant day, and

the evening brought us all on board; myself and party met with good sport;

but the other party found little.

All the forenoon of the 10th, we had strong gales from the west, attended

with heavy showers of rain, and blowing in such flurries over high land, as

made it unsafe for us to get under sail. The afternoon was more moderate,

and became fair; when myself, Mr Cooper, and some others, went out in the

boats to the rocks, which lie at this entrance of the bay, to kill seals.

The weather was rather unfavourable for this sport, and the sea ran high,

so as to make landing difficult; we, however, killed ten, but could only

wait to bring away five, with which we returned on board.

In the morning of the 11th, while we were getting under sail, I sent a boat

for the other five seals. At nine o'clock we weighed with a light breeze at

south-east, and stood out to sea, taking up the boat in our way. It was

noon before we got clear of the land; at which time we observed in 45° 34'

30" S.; the entrance of the bay bore S.E. by E., and Break-sea Isles (the

outermost isles that lie at the south point of the entrance of the bay,)

bore S.S.E., distant three miles; the southernmost point, or that of Five

Fingers Point, bore south 42° W., and the northernmost land N.N.E. In this

situation we had a prodigious swell from S.W., which broke with great

violence on all the shores that were exposed to it.

SECTION V.

_Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of the

adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and Nautical

Observations._

As there are few places where I have been in New Zealand that afford the

necessary refreshments in such plenty as Dusky Bay, a short description of

it, and of the adjacent country, may prove of use to some future

navigators, as well as acceptable to the curious reader. For although this

country be far remote from the present trading part of the world, we can,

by no means, tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries made in

the present. The reader of this journal must already know that there are

two entrances to this bay. The south entrance is situated on the north side

of Cape West, in latitude 45° 48' S. It is formed by the land of the Cape

to the south, and Five Fingers Point to the north. This point is made

remarkable by several pointed rocks lying off it, which, when viewed from

certain situations, have some resemblance to the five fingers of a man's

hand; from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is still more

remarkable by the little similarity it bears to any other of the lands

adjacent; being a narrow peninsula lying north and south, of a moderate and

equal height, and all covered with wood.

To sail into the bay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I know

of no danger but what shews itself. The worst that attends it, is the depth

of water, which is too great to admit of anchorage, except in the coves and

harbours, and very near the shores; and even, in many places, this last

cannot be done. The anchoring-places are, however, numerous enough, and

equally safe and commodious. Pickersgill Harbour, where we lay, is not

inferior to any other bay, for two or three ships: It is situated on the

south shore abreast of the west end of Indian island; which island may be

known from the others by its greater proximity to that shore. There is a

passage into the harbour on both sides of the isle, which lies before it.

The most room is on the upper or east side, having regard to a sunken rock,

near the main, abreast this end of the isle: Keep the isle close aboard,

and you will not only avoid the rock, but keep in anchoring-ground. The

next place, on this side, is Cascade Cove, where there is room for a fleet

of ships, and also a passage in on either side of the isle, which lies in

the entrance, taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies near the south-

east shore, a little above the isle. This rock, as well as the one in

Pickersgill Harbour, may be seen at half-ebb It must be needless to

enumerate all the anchoring-places in this capacious bay.

The north entrance lies in the latitude of 45° 38' S., and five leagues to

the north of Five Fingers Point. To make this entrance plain, it will be

necessary to approach the shore within a few miles, as all the land within

and on each side is of considerable height. Its situation may, however, be

known at a greater distance, as it lies under the first craggy mountains

which rise to the north of the land of Five Fingers Point. The southernmost

of these mountains is remarkable, having at its summit two small hillocks.

When this mountain bears S.S.E. you will be before the entrance, on the

south side of which are several isles. The westernmost and outermost is the

most considerable, both for height and circuit, and this I have called

Break sea Isle, because it effectually covers this entrance from the

violence of the southwest swell, which the other entrance is so much

exposed to. In sailing in you leave this isle as well as all the others to

the south. The best anchorage is in the first or north arm, which is on the

larboard hand going in, either in one of the coves, or behind the isles

that lie under the south-east shore.

The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but

through all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenammoo. A

prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with, for inland appears

nothing but the summits of mountains of a stupendous height, and consisting

of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered

with snow. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands,

are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees

are of various kinds, such as are common to other parts of this country,

and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many

other uses. Except in the river Thames, I have not seen finer timber in all

New Zealand; both here and in that river, the most considerable for size is

the Spruce-tree, as we called it, from the similarity of its foliage to the

American spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greater

resemblance to the pitch-pine. Many of these trees are from six to eight

and ten feet in girt, and from sixty to eighty or one hundred feet in

length, large enough to make a main-mast for a fifty-gun ship.

Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of

aromatic trees and shrubs, most of the myrtle kind; but amidst all this

variety, we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat.

In many parts the woods are so over-run with supplejacks, that it is

scarcely possible to force one's way amongst them. I have seen several

which were fifty or sixty fathoms long.

The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables,

and so loose that it sinks under you at every step; and this may be the

reason why we meet with so many large trees as we do, blown down by the

wind, even in the thickest part of the woods. All the ground amongst the

trees is covered with moss and fern, of both which there is a great

variety; but except the flax or hemp plant, and a few other plants, there

is very little herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable, that we

found, except about a handful of water-cresses, and about the same quantity

of cellery. What Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish: A boat with six or

eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient to serve the whole

ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty,

and of such kinds as are common to the more northern coast; but some are

superior, and in particular the cole fish, as we called it, which is both

larger and finer flavoured than any I had seen before, and was, in the

opinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea afforded us. The

shell-fish are, muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other

sorts, all such as are to be found in every other part of the coast. The

only amphibious animals are seals: These are to be found in great numbers

about this bay on the small rocks and isles near the sea coast.

We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do not

recollect to have any where seen before. The largest are as big as a

Muscovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account we

called it the Painted Duck; both male and female have a large white spot on

each wing; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the other

feathers as well as those on the head and neck of the drake are of a dark

variegated colour. The second sort have a brown plumage, with bright green

feathers in their wings, and are about the size of an English tame duck.

The third sort is the blue-grey duck, before mentioned, or the whistling

duck, as some called them, from the whistling noise they made. What is most

remarkable in these is, that the end of their beaks is soft, and of a

skinny, or more properly, cartilaginous substance. The fourth sort is

something bigger than a teal, and all black except the drake, which has

some white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this sort, and we saw

them no where but in the river at the head of the bay. The last sort is a

good deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The other

fowls, whether belonging to the sea and land, are the same that are to be

found in common in other parts of this country, except the blue peterel

before-mentioned, and the water or wood-hens. These last, although they

are numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts, that I never saw

but one. The reason may be, that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit the

skirts of the woods, and feed on the sea-beach, and are so very tame or

foolish, as to stand and stare at us till we knocked them down with a

stick. The natives may have, in a manner, wholly destroyed them. They are a

sort of rail, about the size and a good deal like a common dunghill hen;

most of them are of a dirty black or dark-brown colour, and eat very well

in a pye or fricassée. Among the small birds I must not omit to

particularize the wattle-bird, poy-bird, and fan-tail, on account of their

singularity, especially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrative

of my former voyage.

The wattle-bird, so called, because it has two wattles under its beak as

large as those of a small dunghill-cock, is larger, particularly in length,

than an English black-bird. Its bill is short and thick, and its feathers

of a dark lead colour; the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, almost

an orange colour.

The poy-bird is less than the wattle-bird. The feathers of a fine mazarine

blue, except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver-grey,

and two or three short white ones, which are on the pinion joint of the

wing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-white

leathers, called its _poies_, which being the Otaheitean word for

earrings, occasioned our giving that name to the bird, which is not more

remarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the sweetness of its

note. The flesh is also most delicious, and was the greatest luxury the

woods afforded us.

Of the fan-tail there are different sorts; but the body of the most

remarkable one is scarcely larger than a good filbert, yet it spreads a

tail of most beautiful plumage, full three quarters of a semi-circle, of at

least four or five inches radius.

For three or four days after we arrived in Pickersgill harbour, and as we

were clearing the woods to set up our tents, &c. a four-footed animal was

seen by three or four of our people; but as no two gave the same

description of it, I cannot say of what kind it is. All, however, agreed,

that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs, and of a mouse

colour. One of the seamen, and he who had the best view of it, said it had

a bushy tail, and was the most like a jackall of any animal he knew. The

most probable conjecture is, that it is of a new species. Be this as it

may, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of quadrupeds

as was once thought.

The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand flies, which are

very numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed every thing of the kind

I ever met with. Wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such an

intolerable itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching,

which at last brings on ulcers like the small-pox.

The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay;

though perhaps this may only happen at this season of the year.

Nevertheless, the situation of the country, the vast height, and nearness

of the mountains, seem to subject it to much rain at all times. Our people,

who were daily exposed to the rain, felt no ill effects from it; on the

contrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily,

and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be

attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh provisions it

afforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little. As I have already

observed, we at first made it of a decoction of the spruce leaves; but

finding that this alone made the beer too astringent, we afterwards mixed

with it an equal quantity of the tea plant (a name it obtained in my former

voyage, from our using it as tea then as we also did now,) which partly

destroyed the astringency of the other, and made the beer exceedingly

palatable, and esteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the same

manner as spruce-beer, and the process is as follows: First, make a strong

decoction of the small branches of the spruce and tea plants, by boiling

them three or four hours, or until the bark will strip with ease from off

the branches; then take them out of the copper, and put in the proper

quantity of molasses, ten gallons of which is sufficient to make a ton, or

two hundred and forty gallons of beer; let this mixture just boil, then pot

it into the casks, and to it add an equal quantity of cold water, more or

less, according to the strength of the decoction, or your taste: When the

whole is milk-warm, put in a little grounds of beer, or yeast, if you have

it, or any thing else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days the

beer will be fit to drink. After the casks have been brewed in two or three

times the beer will generally ferment itself, especially if the weather is

warm. As I had inspissated juice of wort on board, and could not apply it

to a better purpose, we used it together with molasses or sugar, to make

these two articles go farther. For of the former I had but one cask, and of

the latter little to spare for this brewing. Had I known how well this beer

would have succeeded, and the great use it was of to the people, I should

have come better provided. Indeed I was partly discouraged by an experiment

made during my former voyage, which did not succeed then, owing, as I now

believe, to some mismanagement.

Any one, who is in the least acquainted with spruce pines, will find the

tree which I have distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it;

that which has the smallest leaves and deepest colour, is the sort we

brewed with; but doubtless all three might safely serve that purpose. The

tea-plant is a small tree or shrub, with five white petals, or flower-

leaves, shaped like those of a rose, having smaller ones of the same figure

in the intermediate spaces, and twenty or more filaments or threads. The

tree sometimes grows to a moderate height, and is generally bare on the

lower part, with a number of small branches growing close together towards

the top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle; it

bears a dry roundish seed-case, and grows commonly in dry places near the

shores. The leaves, as I have already observed, were used by many of us as

tea, which has a very agreeable bitter and flavour when they are recent,

but loses some of both when they are dried. When the infusion was made

strong, it proved emetic to some in the same manner as green tea.

The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of people with those in

the other parts of this country, speak the same language, and observe

nearly the same customs. These indeed seem to have a custom of making

presents before they receive any, in which they come nearer to the

Otaheiteans than the rest of their countrymen. What could induce three or

four families (for I believe there are not more) to separate themselves so

far from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures, is not easy to

guess. By our meeting with inhabitants in this place, it seems probable

that there are people scattered over all this southern island. But the many

vestiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the number

that we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life; and, if

one may judge from appearances and circumstances, few as they are, they

live not in perfect amity, one family with another. For, if they did, why

do they not form themselves into some society? a thing not only natural to

man, but observed even by the brute creation.

I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observations made and

communicated to me by Mr Wales. He found by a great variety of

observations, that the latitude of his observatory at Pickersgill Harbour,

was 45° 47' 26" half south; and, by the mean of several distances of the

moon from the sun, that its longitude was 106° 18' E., which is about half

a degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my former

voyage. He found the variation of the needle or compass, by the mean of

three different needles, to be 13° 49' E, and the dip of the south end 70°

5' three quarters. The times of high water, on the full and change days, he

found to be at 10° 57', and the tide to rise and fall, at the former eight

feet, at the latter five feet eight inches. This difference, in the rise of

the tides between the new and full moon, is a little extraordinary, and was

probably occasioned at this time by some accidental cause, such as winds,

&c., but, be it as it will, I am well assured there was no error in the

observations.

Supposing the longitude of the observatory to be as above, the error of Mr

Kendal's watch, in longitude, will be 1° 48' minus, and that of Mr Arnold's

39° 25'. The former was found to be gaining 6",461 a-day on mean time, and

the latter losing 99",361. Agreeably to these rates the longitude by them

was to be determined, until an opportunity of trying them again.

I must observe, that in finding the longitude by Mr Kendal's watch, we

suppose it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its cape

rate been allowed, the error would not have been so great.

SECTION VI.

_Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlottes Sound, with an Account of

some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure._

After leaving Dusky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed my

course along shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find

the Adventure. In this passage we met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of

notice, till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then about

three leagues to the westward of Cape Stephens; having a gentle gale at

west by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, the

sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and seemed to forebode

much wind. This occasioned as to clew up all our sails, and presently after

six water-spouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between us and

the land; that is, to the south-west of us, the fifth was without us, the

sixth first appeared in the south-west, at the distance of two or three

miles at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the north-east, not

in a straight but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of our

stern, without our feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base of

this spout I judged to be about fifty or sixty feet; that is, the sea

within this space was much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. From

this a tube, or round body, was formed, by which the water or air, or both,

was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of our people said

they saw a bird in the one near us, which was whirled round like the fly of

a jack, as it was carried upwards. During the time these spouts lasted, we

had now and then light puffs of wind from all points of the compass, with

some few slight showers of rain, which generally fell in large drops; and

the weather continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with variable

light breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its old point, and the

sky resumed its former serenity. Some of these spouts appeared at times to

be stationary; and at other times to have a quick but very unequal

progressive motion, and always in a crooked line, sometimes one way and

sometimes another; so that, once or twice, we observed them to cross one

another. From the ascending motion of the bird, and several other

circumstances, it was very plain to us that these spouts were caused by

whirlwinds, and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, and

did not descend from the clouds as I have heard some assert. The first

appearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water;

and, presently after, you see a round column or tube forming from the

clouds above, which apparently descends till it joins the agitated water

below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in reality, but

that the tube is already formed from the agitated water below, and ascends,

though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. When the

tube is formed, or becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth till

it is pretty large; after that it decreaseth, and at last it breaks or

becomes invisible towards the lower part. Soon after the sea below resumes

its natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to the

clouds, where it is dissipated. The same tube would sometimes have a

vertical, and sometimes a crooked or inclined direction. The most rational

account I have read of water-spouts, is in Mr Falconer's Marine Dictionary,

which is chiefly collected from the philosophical writings of the ingenious

Dr Franklin. I have been told that the firing of a gun will dissipate them;

and I am very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough,

and had a gun ready for the purpose; but as soon as the danger was past, I

thought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing these

extraordinary meteors At the time this happened, the barometer stood at 29,

75, and the thermometer at 56.[1]

In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, I had a better view of the

coast than I had when I passed in my former voyage, and observed that about

six leagues to the east of the first-mentioned cape, is a spacious bay,

which is covered from the sea by a low point of land. This is, I believe,

the same that Captain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of December, 1642, and

by him called Murderer's Bay, by reason of some of his men being killed by

the natives. Blind Bay, so named by me in my former voyage, lies to the

S.E. of this, and seems to run a long way inland to the south; the sight,

in this direction, not being bounded by any land. The wind having returned

to the west, as already mentioned, we resumed our course to the east; and

at day-light the next morning (being the 18th,) we appeared off Queen

Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort the Adventure, by the

signals she made to us; an event which every one felt with an agreeable

satisfaction. The fresh westerly wind now died away, and was succeeded by

light airs from the S. and S.W., so that we had to work in with our boats

a-head towing. In the doing of this we discovered a rock, which we did not

see in my former voyage. It lies in the direction of S. by E. 1/2 E.,

distant four miles from the outermost of the Two Brothers, and in a line

with the White Rocks, on with the middle of Long Island. It is just even

with the surface of the sea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon,

Lieutenant Kemp of the Adventure came on board; from whom I learnt that

their ship had been here about six weeks. With the assistance of a light

breeze, our boats, and the tides, we at six o'clock in the evening, got to

an anchor in Ship Cove, near the Adventure, when Captain Furneaux came on

board, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the time

we parted to my arrival here.

[1] "This afternoon we had an opportunity of observing, in as complete

a manner as could be wished, one of the most curious, and perhaps the

most extraordinary and powerful, of Nature's productions. The forenoon

had been in general pretty clear, but subject to heavy squalls of

wind, and some flying clouds, which were very black and heavy, and

moved with great velocity from the S.W. towards the N.E., (the

direction of the wind.) About four o'clock in the afternoon it became

calm, and the heavens were almost covered with very black clouds,

particularly towards the W. and N.W., and presently after we saw

several tail-like appearances, descending from the clouds in that

quarter: These appearances were whiter than the clouds they hung from,

which made them very conspicuous, and they increased gradually in

length, until they extended, as near as I could judge, about one-sixth

part of the distance between the clouds and the surface of the sea.

About this time, the water under them began to be violently agitated,

and lifted up with a whirling motion towards the impending part of the

cloud, which, on account of a motion they all had the contrary way to

that the wind had blown, was not directly over it, but a little

towards the south-west. As the water rose, the end of the cloud

descended, and in a little time they joined; after which the water

appeared to me to ascend out of the sea into the cloud, with great

velocity. I think that none of these spouts, as they are usually

called, continued entire more than ten minutes; perhaps not quite so

long. I saw four complete at one time; but there were great numbers

which began to form, and were dispersed by what cause I know not,

before the cloud and water joined. One of them came, I was told,

within thirty or forty yards of the ship, which lay becalmed; but I

was then below looking at the barometer; when I got upon deck, it was

about 100 fathoms from her. It is impossible to say what would have

been the consequences if it had gone over her; but I believe they

would have been very dreadful. At the time when this happened, the

barometer stood at 29,75 inches, and the thermometer at 56°. The whole

of this passed within the space of an hour, or thereabouts; for at

five o'clock a small breeze of wind sprung up in the south-east

quarter, and dispersed every appearance of this kind, although the

black clouds remained until about ten, when the wind veered round to

the W.S.W., and settled there in a moderate steady gale, and the

weather cleared up."--W.

"The nature of water-spouts and their causes, being hitherto very

little known, we were extremely attentive to mark every little

circumstance attendant on this appearance. Their base, where the water

of the sea was violently agitated, and rose in a spiral form in

vapours, was a broad spot, which looked bright and yellowish when

illuminated by the sun. The column was of a cylindrical form, rather

increasing in width towards the upper extremity. These columns moved

forward on the surface of the sea, and the clouds not following them

with equal rapidity, they assumed a bent or incurvated shape, and

frequently appeared crossing each other, evidently proceeding in

different directions; from whence we concluded, that it being calm,

each of these water-spouts caused a wind of its own. At last they

broke one after another, being probably too much distended by the

difference between their motion and that of the clouds. In proportion

as the clouds came nearer to us, the sea appeared more and more

covered with short broken waves, and the wind continually veered all

round the compass without fixing in any point. We soon saw a spot on

the sea, within two hundred fathoms of us, in a violent agitation. The

water, in a space of fifty or sixty fathoms, moved towards the centre,

and there rising into vapour, by the force of the whirling motion,

ascended in a spiral form towards the clouds. Some hailstones fell on

board about this time, and the clouds looked exceedingly black and

louring above us. Directly over the whirl-pool, if I may so call the

agitated spot on the sea, a cloud gradually tapered into a long

slender tube, which seemed to descend to meet the rising spiral, and

soon united with it into a short column of a cylindrical form. We

could distinctly observe the water hurled upwards with the greatest

violence in a spiral, and it appeared that it left a hollow space in

the centre; so that we concluded the water only formed a hollow tube,

instead of a solid column. We were strongly confirmed in this belief

by the colour, which was exactly like any hollow glass-tube. After

some time the last water-spout was incurvated and broke like the

others, with this difference, that its disjunction was attended with a

flash of lightning, but no explosion was heard. Our situation during

all this time was very dangerous and alarming; a phenomenon which

carried so much terrific majesty in it, and connected, as it were, the

sea with the clouds, made our oldest mariners uneasy, and at a loss

how to behave; for most of them, though they had viewed water-spouts

at a distance, yet had never been so beset with them as we were; and

all without exception had heard dreadful accounts of their pernicious

effects, when they happened to break over a ship. We prepared, indeed,

for the worst, by clewing up our top-sails; but it was the general

opinion that our masts and yards must have gone to wreck if we had

been drawn into the vortex. It was hinted that firing a gun had

commonly succeeded in breaking water-spouts, by the strong vibration

it causes in the air; and accordingly a four-pounder was ordered to be

got ready, but our people, being, as usual, very dilatory about it,

the danger was past before we could try the experiment. How far

electricity may be considered as the cause of this phenomenon, we

could not determine with any precision; so much however seems certain,

that it has some connection with it, from the flash of lightning,

which was plainly observed at the bursting of the last column. The

whole time, from their first appearance to the dissolution of the

last, was about three quarters of an hour. It was five o'clock when

the latter happened, and the thermometer then stood at fifty-four

degrees, or two and a half degrees lower, than when they began to make

their appearance. The depth of water we had under us was thirty-six

fathom."--G.F.

The description which Mr F. has given, is very similar to the

preceding. Both these gentlemen seem to concur in opinion with Cook,

in maintaining Dr Franklin's theory. Mr Jones, in his Philosophical

Disquisitions, mentions a circumstance which is no less curious in

itself, than strongly demonstrative that the tube, as it has been

called, is formed from below, and ascends towards the clouds, and not

the contrary, as the appearances would indicate. "In the torrid zone,

(says he,) the water-spout is sometimes attended with an effect which

appears supernatural, and will scarcely find credit in this part of

the world; for who will believe that fish should fall from the sky in

a shower of rain? A gentleman of veracity, who spent many years in the

East Indies, declares to his friends that he has been witness to this

several times; but speaks of it with caution, knowing that it will be

thought incredible by those who are not acquainted with the cause. I

have a servant, a native of the West Indies, who assures me he was

once a witness to this fact himself, when small fish, about two or

three inches long, fell in great numbers during a storm of rain. The

spot where this happened was in the island of Jamaica, within about a

mile of the sea. When water is carried with violence from the sea up

the column of a spout, small fish, which are too weak to escape when

the column is forming, are conveyed up to the clouds, and fall from

them afterwards on land, not far distant from the sea." He had before

related an instance of one that passed over the town of Hatfield, in

Yorkshire, filling the air with the thatch it plucked off from the

houses, and rolling strangely together several sheets of lead on the

corner of the church.--E.

SECTION VII.

_Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were

separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some

Account of Van Diemen's Land._

On the 7th of February, 1773, in the morning, the Resolution being then

about two miles a-head, the wind shifting then to the westward, brought on

a very thick fog; so that we lost sight of her. We soon after heard a gun,

the report of which we imagined to be on the larboard beam; we then hauled

up S.E., and kept firing a four-pounder every half hour, but had no answer,

nor further sight of her; then we kept the course we steered on before the

fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was at intervals

more clear, but could see nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. We

then tacked and stood to the westward, to cruise in the place where we last

saw her, according to agreement, in case of separation; but next day came

on a very heavy gale of wind and thick weather, that obliged us to bring

to, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended spot. However, the wind

coming more moderate, and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruised

as near the place as we could get, for three days; when giving over all

hopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter quarters, distant

fourteen hundred leagues, through a sea entirely unknown and reduced the

allowance of water to one quart per day.

We kept between the latitude of 52° and 53° S., had much westerly wind,

hard gales, with squalls, snow and sleet, with a long hollow sea from the

S.W., so that we judged there is no land in that quarter. After we reached

the longitude of 95° E., we found the variation decrease very fast.

On the 26th, at night, we saw a meteor of uncommon brightness in the N.N.W.

It directed its course to the S.W., with a very great light in the southern

sky, such as is known to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, or

Northern Lights. We saw the light for several nights running; and, what is

remarkable, we saw but one ice island after we parted company with the

Resolution, till our making land, though we were most of the time two or

three degrees to the southward of the latitude we first saw it in. We were

daily attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoises

curiously spotted white and black.

On the 1st of March we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at the

mast-head, on the larboard beam; which gave us great joy. We immediately

hauled our wind and stood for it, but to our mortification were

disappointed in a few hours; for, what we took to be land, proved no more

than clouds, which disappeared as we sailed towards them. We then bore

away, and directed our course towards the land laid down in the charts by

the name of Van Diemen's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and laid down

in the latitude 44° S., and longitude 140° E., and supposed to join to New

Holland.

On the 9th of March, having little wind and pleasant weather, about nine a.

m. being then in the latitude of 43° 37' S. longitude, by lunar

observation, 145° 36' E., and by account 143° 10' E. from Greenwich, we saw

the land bearing N.N.E., about eight or nine leagues distance. It appeared

moderately high, and uneven near the sea; the hills farther back formed a

double land, and much higher. There seemed to be several islands, or broken

land, to the N.W., as the shore trenched; but by reason of clouds that hung

over them, we could not be certain whether they did not join to the main.

We hauled immediately up for it, and by noon were within three or four

leagues of it. A point much like the Ramhead off Plymouth, which I take to

be the same that Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues off us.

The land from this cape runs directly to the eastward; about four leagues

along shore are three islands about two miles long, and several rocks,

resembling the Mewstone, (particularly one which we so named,) about four

or five leagues E.S.E 1/2 E. off the above cape, which Tasman has not

mentioned, or laid down in his draughts. After you pass these islands, the

land lies E. by N., and W. by S., by the compass nearly. It is a bold

shore, and seems to afford several bays or anchoring-places, but believe

deep water. From the S.W. cape, which is in the latitude of 43° 39' S., and

longitude 145° 50' E. to the S.E. cape, in the latitude 43° 36' S.,

longitude 147° E., is nearly sixteen leagues, and sounding from forty-eight

to seventy fathoms, sand and broken shells three or four leagues off shore.

Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky and difficult

landing, occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from the westward,

which occasions such a surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We saw

no inhabitants here.

The morning, on the 10th of March, being calm, the ship then about four

miles from the land, sent the great cutter on shore with the second

lieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, it

beginning to blow very hard, made the signal for the boat to return several

times, but they did not see or hear any thing of it; the ship then three or

four leagues off, that we could not see any thing of the boat, which gave

us great uneasiness, as there was a very great sea. At half-past one p.m.

to our great satisfaction, the boat returned on board safe. They landed,

but with much difficulty, and saw several places where the Indians had

been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a great

number of pearl escallop shells round it, which shells they brought on

board, with, some burnt sticks and green boughs. There was a path from this

place, through the woods, which in all probability leads to their

habitations; but, by reason of the weather, had not time to pursue it. The

soil seems to be very rich; the country well clothed with wood,

particularly on the lee side of the hills; plenty of water which falls from

the rocks in beautiful cascades, for two or three hundred feet

perpendicular into the sea; but they did not see the least sign of any

place to anchor in with safety. Hoisted in the boat, and made sail for

Frederick Henry Bay. From noon to three p.m. running along shore E. by N.,

at which time we were abreast of the westernmost point of a very deep bay,

called by Tasman, Stormy Bay. From the west to the east point of this bay

there are several small islands, and black rocks, which we called the

Friars. While crossing this bay we had very heavy squalls and thick

weather; at times, when it cleared up, I saw several fires in the bottom of

the bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I doubt not,

good places for anchoring, but the weather being so bad, did not think it

safe to stand into it. From the Friars the land trenches away about N. by

E. four leagues: We had smooth water, and kept in shore, having regular

soundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms water. At half-past six we hauled

round a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like so many fluted

pillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine sand, within half a mile of the

shore. At seven, being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, we

came-to, with the small bower, in twenty-four fathoms, sandy bottom. Just

after we anchored, being a fine clear evening, had a good observation of

the star Antares and the moon, which gave the longitude of 147° 34' E.,

being in the latitude of 43° 20' S. We first took this bay to be that

which Tasman called Frederick Henry Bay; but afterwards found that his is

laid down five leagues to the northward of this.

At day-break the next morning, I sent the master in shore to sound the bay,

and to find out a watering-place; at eight he returned, having found a most

excellent harbour, clear ground from side to side, from eighteen to five

fathom water all over the bay, gradually decreasing as you go in shore. We

weighed and turned up into the bay; the wind being westerly, and very

little of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At seven o'clock in the

evening, we anchored in seven fathoms water, with a small bower, and moored

with the coasting anchor to the westward, the north point of the bay N.N.E.

1/2 E. (which we take to be Tasman's Head), and the easternmost point

(which we named Penguin Island, from a curious one we caught there) N.E. by

E 3/4 E.; the watering-place W. 1/2 N.; about one mile from the shore on

each side; Maria's Island, which is about five or six leagues off, shut in

with both points; so that you are quite land-locked in a most spacious

harbour.

We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering

(which is easily got), and over-hauling the rigging. We found the country

very pleasant; the soil a black, rich, though thin one; the sides of the

hills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great height

before they branch off. They are all of the evergreen kind, different from

any I ever saw; the wood is very brittle, and easily split; there is a very

little variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are long

and narrow; and the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of a

button, and has a very agreeable smell. The leaves of the other are like

the bay, and it has a seed like the white thorn, with an agreeable spicy

taste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there issued

some gum, which the surgeon called gum-lac. The trees are mostly burnt or

scorched, near the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to the

under-wood, in the most frequented places; and by these means they have

rendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw, are a bird like a raven;

some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail and

wings white, their bill long and very sharp; some paroquets; and several

kinds of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. I

forgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, about

the size of a large kite of the eagle kind. As for beasts, we saw but one,

which was an opossom; but we observed the dung of some, which we judged to

be of the deer kind. The fish in the bay are scarce; those we caught were

mostly sharks, dog-fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like the

dog-fish, only full of small white spots; and some small fish not unlike

sprats. The lagoons (which are brackish) abound with trout, and several

other sorts of fish, of which we caught a few with lines, but being much

encumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the seine.

While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight or

ten miles in shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives;

though they frequently come into this bay, as there were several wigwams or

huts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imagine

they carry their provisions and other necessaries. In one of them there was

the stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what tree

could not be distinguished. We found in one of their huts, one of their

spears, which was made sharp at one end, I suppose, with a shell or stone.

Those things we brought away, leaving in the room of them medals, gun-

flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it.

They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs, of which

their huts are made, are either broken or split, and tied together with

grass in a circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and the

smaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern and

bark, so poorly done, that they will hardly keep out a shower of rain. In

the middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl,

scallop, and cray-fish shells, which I believe to be their chief food,

though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried

grass, round the fire; and I believe they have no settled place of

habitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days), but wander

about in small parties from place to place in search of food, and are

actuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in

a place, capable of containing three or four persons each only; and what is

remarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it is

generally thought they have none; being altogether, from what we could

judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a

country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the

finest in the world. We found not the least signs of any minerals or

metals.

Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay,

intending to coast it up along shore, till we should fall in with the land

seen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New

Holland. On the 16th, we passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tassman; they

appear to be the same as the main land. On the 17th, having passed

Shouten's Islands, we hauled in for the main land, and stood along shore at

the distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be

very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as we

sailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low, and even; but no signs

of a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor with safety. The weather

being bad, and blowing hard at S.S.E., we could not send a boat on shore to

have any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 40° 50' S.,

the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay,

as we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands that

lay before it, when we could not see the least signs of land from the mast

head.

From the latitude of 40° 50' S., to the latitude of 39° 50' S., is nothing

but islands and shoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, in

the latitude of 40° 30' S., observing breakers about half a mile within

shore of us, we sounded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauled

off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away and kept along

shore again. From the latitude of 39° 50' to 39° S., we saw no land, but

had regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to the

northward, we made land again in about 39°; after which we discontinued our

northerly course, as we found the ground very uneven, and shoal-water some

distance off. I think it a very dangerous shore to fall in with.

The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New

Zealand, lies in the direction S. 1/2 W., and N. 1/2 E., about seventy-five

leagues; and it is my opinion that there are no straits between New Holland

and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay.--I should have stood farther to

the northward, but the wind blowing strong at S.S.E., and looking likely to

haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I

therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for New

Zealand.

After we left Van Diemen's Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rain

and very heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a very

severe squall, that reduced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, in

the space of an hour. The sea rising equally quick, we shipped many waves,

one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the small one from her

lashing in the waist; and with much difficulty we saved her from being

washed overboard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had more

moderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out the

boats to try the currents, and in general found a small drift to the W.S.W.

We shot many birds; and had, upon the whole, good weather; but as we got

near to the land, it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we made

the coast of New Zealand in 40° 30' S., having made twenty-four degrees of

longitude, from Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days.

We had the winds much southerly in this passage, and I was under some

apprehensions of not being able to fetch the straits, which would have

obliged us to steer away for George's Island; I would therefore advise any

who sail to this part, to keep to the southward, particularly in the fall

of the year, when the S. and S.E. winds prevail.

The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused

jumble of hills and mountains. We steered along shore to the northward, but

were much retarded in our course by reason of the swell from the N.E. At

noon, on the 3rd of April, Cape Farewell, which is the south point of the

entrance of the west side of the straits, bore E. by N. 1/2 N. by the

compass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o'clock we entered the

straits, and steered N.E. till midnight; then brought-to till day-light,

and had soundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and broken

shells. At day-light, made sail and steered S.E. by E.; had light airs;

Mount Egmont N.N.E. eleven or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S.E. 1/2

E. seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve leagues; Stephens

Island S.E. five leagues. In the afternoon we put the dredge over-board in

sixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two or

three oysters, and broken shells.

Standing to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at

N.W., in the morning on the 5th, Stephens Island bearing S.W. by W. four

leagues, we were taken a-back with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us

to haul our wind to the S.E. and work to windward up under Port Jackson.

The course from Stephens Island to Point Jackson, is nearly S.E. by the

compass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-two

fathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, but

saw no signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half-past two,

o'clock, finding the tide set the ship to the westward, we anchored with

the coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground; Point

Jackson S.E. 1/2 E. three leagues; the east point of an inlet (about four

leagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a good

harbour) S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At eight p.m. the tide slackening, we weighed

and made sail (having while at anchor caught several fish with hook and

line), and found the tide to run to the westward, at the rate of two and a

half knots per hour. Standing to the east, we found no ground at seventy

fathoms, off Point Jackson N.N.W., two leagues. At eight the next morning,

had the sound open; but the wind being down, it obliged us to work up under

the western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down in

mid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come-to with the

best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, close to some white rocks, Point

Jackson bearing N.W. 1/2 N.; the northernmost of the Brothers E. by S.; and

the middle of Entry Island (which lies on the north side of the straits)

N.E. We made 15° 30' E., variation in the straits. As we sailed up the

sound we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains

all the year. When the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound;

and about five o'clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms

water, muddy ground, and moored the best bower to the N.N.E., and small to

S.S.W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on

the east shore.

The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Island

for erecting our tents for the sick (having then several on board much

afflicted with the scurvy), the sail-makers and coopers. On the top of the

island was a post erected, by the Endeavour's people, with her name and

time of departure on it.

On the 9th, we were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of the

natives; and to induce them to bring us fish and other provisions, we gave

them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of our

young gentlemen seeing something wrapt up in a better manner than common,

had the curiosity to examine what it was; and to his great surprise found

it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of

its being forced from them; and particularly the man who seemed most

interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of being

punished by us, as Captain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this

unnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting it

from one to another; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that there

was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutes

before. They then took their leave of us, and went on shore.

They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of

George's Island (or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who died

at Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, some of them seemed to be

very much concerned, and, as well as we could understand them, wanted to

know whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By these

questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, they

returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and

other trifles; though the nails are what they set the most value on. The

man and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue

of words in their language, we called several things by name, which

surprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantity

of fish for it.

Next morning, they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, with

their chief at their head (as we supposed), in five double canoes. They

gave us their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails

and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men

came on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them out of the

ship by fair means; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet,

they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by more

or less, who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and other

trifles, and behaved very peaceably.

We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, on

a small island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa,

where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Their

houses served our people to live in; and, by sinking them about a foot

inside, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we struck our

tents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove on

the west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents near

the river or watering-place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber off

the decks, that they might be caulked; and gave her a winter coat to

preserve the hull and rigging. On the 11th of May, we felt two severe

shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th, we

were surprised by the people firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent the

boat, as soon as she opened the sound, had the pleasure of seeing the

Resolution off the mouth of it. We immediately sent out the boats to tow

her in, it being calm. In the evening she anchored about a mile without us;

and next morning weighed and warped within us. Both ships felt uncommon joy

at our meeting, after an absence of fourteen weeks.[1]

[1] It is, perhaps, unnecessary to state, that the opinion expressed

in this section, as to there being no straits between New Holland and

Diemen's Land, is erroneous. The reader must have previously known

this.--E.

SECTION VIII.

_Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on the

Inhabitants._

Knowing that scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be found

in this sound, I went myself the morning after my arrival, at day-break, to

look for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being

now satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, I

gave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth,

every morning for breakfast; and with peas and broth for dinner; knowing

from experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely

beneficial, in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints.

I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen's Land, in

order to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainly

should have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as Captain

Furneaux had now, in a great measure, cleared up that point, I could have

no business there; and therefore came to a resolution to continue our

researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°. I acquainted

Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to

put to sea as soon as possible.

In the morning of the 20th, I sent ashore, to the watering-place near the

Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of those which I brought

from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave them in this country.

Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be

made and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourishing

state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to

them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island,

which I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c.

On the 22d in the morning, the ewe and ram, I had with so much care and

trouble brought to this place, were both found dead, occasioned, as was

supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking this

country with a breed of sheep, were blasted in a moment. About noon, we

were visited, for the first time since I arrived, by some of the natives,

who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening

they were dismissed with presents.[1]

Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent Mr Gilbert the master to sound

about the rock we had discovered in the entrance of the sound. Myself,

accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, went in a boat to the west

bay on a shooting party. In our way, we met a large canoe in which were

fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was for

Tupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage; and they

seemed to express some concern when we told them he was dead. These people

made the same enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived; and, on my

return to the ship in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along-

side, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also enquired for

Tupia.[2] Late in the evening Mr Gilbert returned, having sounded all round

the rock, which he found to be very small and steep.

Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of the

natives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which

they exchanged for nails, &c. One of these people I took over to Motuara,

and shewed him some potatoes planted there by Mr Fannen, master of the

Adventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man was

so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the

earth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, and

shewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips; roots which, together with

the potatoes, will be of more real use to them than all the other articles

we had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, by

comparing them with such as they knew.

Two or three families of these people now took up their abode near us,

employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the fruits of

their labour; the good effects of which we soon felt. For we were, by no

means, such expert fishers as they are; nor were any of our methods of

fishing equal to theirs.

On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on

shore on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The former

was something more than a year old; but the latter was much older. She had

two fine kids, some time before we arrived in Dusky Bay, which were killed

by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux also put on

shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows; so that we have

reason to hope this country will in time be stocked with these animals, if

they are not destroyed by the natives before they become wild; for,

afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the natives knew nothing of

their being left behind, it may be some time before they are discovered.

In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had ever seen.

It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suffered us to come near

enough to fire at it; but without effect; for, after a chase of near an

hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it probably

was a sea-lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to the drawing in

Lord Anson's voyage; our seeing a sea-lion when we entered this sound, in

my former voyage, increaseth the probability; and I am of opinion, they

have their abode on some of the rocks, which lie in the strait, or off

Admiralty Bay.

On the 3d, I sent a boat with the carpenter over to the east side of the

sound, to cut down some spars which we were in want of. As she was

returning, she was chased by a large double canoe full of people; but with

what intent is not known. Early the next morning, some of our friends

brought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with us;

but afterwards, that is, when it came to the point, he changed his mind; as

did some others who had promised to go with the Adventure.

It was even said that some of them offered their children to sale. I

however found that this was a mistake. The report first took its rise on

board the Adventure, where they were utter strangers to their language and

customs. It was very common for these people to bring their children with

them, and present them to us, in expectation that we would make them

presents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his son,

a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to me. As the

report of selling their children was then current, I thought, at first,

that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at last I found that he wanted me to

give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his

new dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every

one that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will, the

ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on

the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not some of the people

come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him

irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the

cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr Forster; when he told a

very lamentable story against goury the great dog (for so they call all the

quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his shirt was

washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, will

shew how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe to

them customs they never knew even in thought.

About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty

people, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed,

telling us that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a

spear, and the other with a stone-hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm-

chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies

defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went

ashore, probably to secure the women and children.

All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call these

strangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing it,

and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay very

little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards the

ship, and after performing the usual ceremonies, put along-side. After this

the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many

others, and peace was immediately established on all sides. Indeed, it did

not appear to me that these people had any intention to make war upon their

brethren. At least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know, that

this was neither the time nor place for them to commit hostilities.

One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and when I

told them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of

lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade soon

commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder the

former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest

trifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me to

dismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they departed,

they went to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered four

or five canoes, and several people on the shore. This induced me to go over

in my boat, accompanied by Mr Forster and one of the officers. We were well

received by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of between

ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with them

six canoes, and all their utensils; which made it probable that they were

come to reside in this sound. But this is only conjecture; for it is very

common for them, when they go but a little way, to carry their whole

property with them; every place being alike, if it affords them the

necessary subsistence; so that it can hardly be said they are ever from

home. Thus we may easily account for the emigration of those few families

we found in Dusky Bay.

Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of

the family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel many

inconveniences, to which well-regulated societies, united under one head or

any other form of government, are not subject. These form laws and

regulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the appearance

of every stranger; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have

strong-holds to retire to, where they can with advantage defend themselves,

their property, and their country. This seems to be the state of most of

the inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas those of Tavai-poenammoo, by

living a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of these

advantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally found

them upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were with their arms

in their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, as

appeared by the first interview I had with the family in Dusky Bay; where

each of the two women was armed with a spear, not less than 18 feet in

length.

I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the face

of any one person I had seen here three years ago: Nor did it once appear,

that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any person with

me that was here at that time. It is therefore highly probable that the

greatest part of the people which inhabited this sound in the beginning of

the year 1770, have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own

accord, removed somewhere else. Certain it is, that not one third of the

inhabitants were here now, that were then. Their stronghold on the point of

Motuara hath been long deserted; and we found many forsaken habitations in

all parts of the sound. We are not, however, wholly to infer from this,

that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, for

their own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more huts

than one or two.

It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of

her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have

in their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they could

only have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the name of

Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would

be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand,

and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to those who did. Had ships,

of any other nation whatever, arrived here, they would have equally

enquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of the

articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in possession of those who

never saw her. I got from one of the people, now present, an ear ornament,

made of glass very well formed and polished. The glass they must have got

from the Endeavour.

After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having

distributed among them some presents, and shewed to the chief the gardens

we had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our royal

master's birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain Furneaux and

all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in the

general joy.

Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account in

writing of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east,

between the latitudes of 41° and 46° S., until I arrived in the longitude

of 140° or 135° W., then, provided no land was discovered; to proceed to

Otaheite; from thence back to this place, by the shortest route; and after

taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the

unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn.

Therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointed

that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th

of August: If not joined by me before that time, he was then to make the

best of his way back to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until

the 20th of November: After which (if not joined by me,) he was to put to

sea, and carry into execution their lordships' instructions.

Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries as

far south at 46° degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But

though it most be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for

discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something should

be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon; lest I should not be

able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific

Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my

route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, to explore

it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little to fear; having

two good ships well provided; and healthy crews. Where then could I spend

my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of being

able to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and that

it is practicable to go on discoveries; even in the very depth of winter.

During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made to

this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. I had

always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste than the

generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have

granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private

manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in it. But

now, I was told, they were the chief promoters of a shameful traffic, and

that for a spike-nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the

women to prostitute themselves, whether they would or no; and even without

any regard to that privacy which decency required.[3]

During our stay here, Mr Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal

altitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result of

his labours proved, that Mr Kendal's was gaining 9", 5 per day, and Mr

Arnold's losing 94", 15s per day, on mean time.[4]

[1] Mr G.F. represents these people as very like those which had been

seen at Dusky Bay, only much more familiar. At dinner, it is said,

they would not drink either wine or brandy, but took large quantities

of water sweetened with sugar, of which they were very fond. They

shewed extreme covetousness, but were readily induced to lay down what

they had seized on. They seemed to have acquaintance with the value of

iron, and highly prized any thing made of it.--E.

[2] "When they were told that he was dead, they seemed much concerned,

and pronounced some words in a plaintive voice. So much had this man's

superior knowledge, and his ability to converse in their language,

rendered him valuable and beloved, even among a nation in a state of

barbarism. Perhaps with the capacity which Providence had allotted to

him, and which had been cultivated no farther than the simplicity of

his education would permit, he was more adapted to raise the New

Zealanders to a state of civilization similar to that of his own

islands than ourselves, to whom the want of the intermediate links,

which connect their narrow views to our extended sphere of knowledge,

must prove an obstacle in such an undertaking."--G.F.

This is a liberal observation in respect of Tupia, but it is liable to

much objection as a general maxim. Besides the greater number of

impracticable prejudices which attach themselves to imperfectly

cultivated minds when placed in new situations, and which often render

well-meant exertions unavailing, it is certain, that superior

knowledge both affords greater aptitude of accommodation to unusual

circumstances by the speedy discovery it enables the person to make of

the principles on which they depend, and, at the same time,

facilitates the management and direction of them when known, by the

accustomed exercise of the faculties which it implies. Mr F. seems to

have imposed on himself by the gratuitous use of figurative language.

Where there is a want of intermediate links, there is certainly no

connection; but admitting that all mankind is made up of the same

materials, it may be very safely inferred, that the most civilized and

best educated European carries about with him the whole chain, betwixt

the "narrow views" of the New Zealanders and his own "extended sphere

of knowledge." The physical wants of our species are the same in all

regions of the globe, and so are our passions. These are grand

levellers of the proud distinctions, by which some of us exalt

ourselves so much above others; and they have never yet been set aside

or eradicated by any process which human ingenuity has contrived.

Often, indeed, savages excel in the knowledge and dexterous attainment

of the means necessary to supply and gratify them. Our judicious

Shakespeare seems to have been aware of this, when he causes the

brutish Caliban to address Triaculo thus,--

"I'll shew thee the best springs; I'll pluck thee berries; I'll fish

for thee, and get thee wood enough," &c.

Mr F. himself, as we shall soon see, has specified one link large and

strong enough to answer for a chain in holding together British

sailors at least, and New Zealanders, or, indeed, any other savages,

however degenerate and abominable, to the end of the chapter!--E.

[3] "Our crews, who had not conversed with women since our departure

from the Cape, found these ladies very agreeable, and from the manner

in which their advances were received, it appeared very plainly that

chastity was not rigorously observed here, and that the sex were far

from being impregnable. However, their favours did not depend upon

their own inclination, but the men, as absolute masters, were always

to be consulted upon the occasion; if a spike-nail, or a shirt, or a

similar present, had been given for their connivance, the lady was at

liberty to make her lover happy, and to exact, if possible, the

tribute of another present for herself. Some among them, however,

submitted with reluctance to this vile prostitution: and but for the

authority and menaces of the men, would not have complied with the

desires of a set of people, who could, with unconcern, behold their

tears and hear their complaints. Whether the members of a civilized

society, who could act such a brutal part, or the barbarians who could

force their own women to submit to such indignity, deserve the

greatest abhorrence, is a question not easily to be decided.

Encouraged by the lucrative nature of this infamous commerce, the New

Zealanders went through the whole vessel, offering their daughters and

sisters promiscuously to every person's embraces, in exchange for our

iron tools, which they knew could not be purchased at an easier rate.

It does not appear, that their married women were ever suffered to

have this kind of intercourse with our people. Their ideas of female

chastity are, in this respect, so different from ours, that a girl may

favour a number of lovers without any detriment to her character; but

if she marries, conjugal fidelity is exacted from her with the

greatest rigour. It may therefore be alleged, that as the New

Zealanders place no value on the continence of their unmarried women,

the arrival of Europeans among them does not injure their moral

characters in this respect; but we doubt whether they ever debased

themselves so much as to make a trade of their women, before we

created new wants by shewing these iron tools, for the possession of

which they do not hesitate to commit an action, that, in our eyes,

deprives them of the very shadow of sensibility. It is unhappy enough,

that the unavoidable consequence of all our voyages of discovery has

always been the loss of a number of innocent lives; but this heavy

injury done to the little uncivilized communities which Europeans have

visited, is trifling when compared to the irretrievable harm entailed

upon them by corrupting their morals. If these evils were compensated

in some measure by the introduction of some real benefit in these

countries, or by the abolition of some other immoral custom among

their inhabitants, we might at least comfort ourselves, that what they

lost on one hand, they gained on the other; but I fear that hitherto

our intercourse has been wholly disadvantageous to the natives of the

South Seas; and that those communities have been the least injured,

who have always kept aloof from us, and whose jealous disposition did

not suffer our sailors to become too familiar among them, as if they

had perceived in their countenances that levity of disposition, and

that spirit of debauchery, with which they are generally reproached."

A little afterwards, relating a trip over to Long Island, it is said,

"In the afternoon, many of our sailors were allowed to go on shore,

among the natives, where they traded for curiosities, and purchased

the embraces of the ladies, notwithstanding the disgust which their

uncleanliness inspired. Their custom of painting their cheeks with

ochre and oil, was alone sufficient to deter the more sensible from

such intimate connections with them; and if we add to this a certain

stench which announced them even at a distance, and the abundance of

vermin which not only infested their hair, but also crawled on their

clothes, and which they occasionally cracked between their teeth, it

is astonishing that persons should be found, who could gratify an

animal appetite with such loathsome objects, whom a civilized

education and national customs should have taught them to hold in

abhorrence."--G.F.

May this sad picture have the same effect, which the fathers of Sparta

expected from the exhibition of their drunken slaves!--E.

[4] A few miscellaneous observations respecting New Zealand, collected

from Mr G.F.'s work, may be given here with interest to some

readers:--The arrival at New Zealand, was most delightful to men who

had so long suffered the inclemencies and hardships of a navigation in

the southern sea. Every object seen on the land afforded some

agreeable sensation, heightened in no ordinary degree by the contrast

which memory presented. No wonder then, that the description given of

the scenery should be somewhat enthusiastic; besides, for every

obvious reason, one might be inclined to expect, that Mr G. Forster

should exceed even Cook in the warmth of colouring. It is so. He

speaks in evidently poetical feeling of the delightfully fair weather,

the lightly wafting airs, the numerous evergreens mingling with the

various shades of autumnal yellow, the wild notes of the feathered

tribe, &c. This was on getting sight of Dusky Bay. The effects of such

charming panorama were visible on all the crew; "emotions of joy and

satisfaction," he tells us, "were strongly marked in the countenance

of every individual." He is quite aware of the magic at work in his

own mind, when contemplating the picture, and accordingly very

candidly and very justly says, "So apt is mankind, after a long

absence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildest shore,

that we looked upon the country at that time, as one of the most

beautiful which nature, unassisted by art, could produce. Such are the

general ideas of travellers and voyagers long exhausted by distresses;

and with _such_ warmth of imagination they have viewed the rude cliffs

of Juan Fernandez, and the impenetrable forests of Tinian!" So much,

by the bye, as a hint for understanding the works of some other

painters! But all was not mere semblance of good. Several substantial

advantages were enjoyed, abundance of excellent fish and water-fowl,

plenty of wood and water, &c. To a naturalist besides, there was much

to occupy attention and excite curiosity, as a store of animal and

vegetable bodies was perceived, bearing little or no resemblance to

known species. But the dream of pleasure, and the hopes of much

additional science, were not of very long duration. The necessary

occupations of the different artificers, soon involved the people in

very embarrassing intricacies and much bodily labour, occasioned by

the prodigious variety and numbers of climbers, briars, shrubs, and

ferns, interwoven through the forests, and almost totally precluding

access to the interior of the country. From the appearance of these

impediments, and the quantity of rotten trees which had been either

felled by the winds, or brought low from age, it is conjectured, and

plausibly enough, that the forests in the southern parts of New

Zealand had escaped the hand of human industry since the origin of

their existence. But nature, we may often see, is prodigal of life,

and in the very act of dissolving one generation, seems to rejoice in

providing for another that is to succeed it. Thus, we are told, there

sprouted out young trees from the rich mould, to which the old ones

were at last reduced. A deceitful bark, it is added, sometimes still

covered the interior rotten substance, in which a person attempting to

step on it, might sink to the waist. Such were the common

disappointments in this Utopia. The naturalists had to add to them,

the appropriate mortification of seeing numerous trees and shrubs, of

which, as the time of flowering was past, it was impossible to make

any scientific examination, and which, accordingly, only tantalized

them with the idea of the profusion of new vegetables in this

interesting country. A short residence here, especially during wet

gloomy weather, proved that all was not so perfect in this climate as

had been fondly imagined. The land about Dusky Bay, and indeed

throughout most of the southern extremity of this island, was found to

consist of steep rocky mountains, with craggy precipices, either clad

with impenetrable forests, or quite barren, and covered with snow on

the tops. No meadows or lawns were to be seen, and the only spot of

flat land that was found, presented so much wood and briars as to be

useless for either garden ground or pasture, without very considerable

toil. This heartless description is somewhat relieved by a glowing

picture of the scenery about what was called Cascade Cove, which seems

to have arrested the attention of Mr F., and which, he says, could

only have justice done it by the very successful pencil of Mr Hodges.

The soil here was found to be quite like to what had elsewhere been

found, and the rocks and stones consisted of granite, moor-stone, and

brown talcous clay-stone. In one of the excursions to the country, it

was observed, that as they receded from the sea, the mountains became

much higher, and were more steep and barren, and that the trees

dwindled in size, so as to resemble shrubs, circumstances rather the

reverse of what is usually noticed in other countries. The climate of

Dusky Bay is spoken unfavourably of, as its greatest inconvenience,

and to this must be added its being deficient in celery, scurvy-grass,

and other antiscorbutics. But with all its defects, Mr G.F. admits,

that Dusky Bay is one of the finest places in New Zealand, for a crew

to touch at in such a situation as that of his companions. The land

about Cape Traveller appeared low and sandy near the shore, but rising

into high snow-capt mountains interiorly. In one respect, according to

this gentleman, Queen Charlotte's Sound has greatly the advantage of

Dusky Bay, viz. its abounding in salutary vegetables. This it no doubt

owes to the superior mildness of the climate, which is represented as

highly favourable to botanical pursuits. The tea-tree and spruce, as

they were called, were found here in great plenty, as well as at Dusky

Bay; besides several species of plants in flower, which had not been

seen before. The hills consisted chiefly of argillaceous stone,

running in oblique strata, commonly dipping a little towards the

south, of a greenish-grey, or bluish, or yellowish-brown colour,

sometimes containing veins of white quartz, and sometimes a green

talcous or nephritic stone, which, as it was capable of a good polish

from its hardness, the natives used for chissels, &c. Mr F. specifies

several other mineral substances found in this neighbourhood,

particularly argillaceous strata of a rusty colour, which is inferred

to contain iron, and a black compact and ponderous basalt, of which

the natives form their pattoo-pattoos. It is unnecessary to make

remarks on the subjects now mentioned, as they must be resumed in our

account of Cook's third voyage, where we shall have to consider Mr

Anderson's report respecting them and other topics, with greater

attention, than was required for the present imperfect though valuable

notices.--E.

SECTION IX.

_Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low Islands,

supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville._

On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable,

we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in

company. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind at

south, so that we had to ply through the straits. About noon the tide of

ebb setting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; so that, at

five o'clock in the evening. Cape Palliser, on the island of Eahei-nomauwe,

bore S.S E. 1/2 S., and Cape Koamaroo, or the S.E. point of the sound, N by

W. 3/4 W.; presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now making

against us, carried us at a great rate back to the north. A little before

high-water, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soon

increased to a brisk gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us by eight

o'clock the next morning quite through the strait. Cape Palliser at this

time bore E.N.E., and at noon N. by W. distant seven leagues.[1]

This day at noon, when we attended the winding-up of the watches, the fusee

of Mr Arnold's would not turn round, so that after several unsuccessful

trials we were obliged to let it go down.

After getting clear of the straits, I directed my course S.E. by E., having

a gentle gale, but variable between the north and west. The late S.E. winds

having caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not go down for some

days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We

however continued to steer to the S.E., and on the 11th crossed the

meridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according to my way of

reckoning.

On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S.E.,

we tacked and stretched to N.E., being at this time in the latitude of 47°

7', longitude 173° W. In this situation we had a great swell from N.E.[2]

The wind continued at S.E. and S.S.E., blew fresh at intervals, and was

attended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till the

20th, on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30', longitude 165° 45'

W., the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with

fair weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and E., till the 23d

at noon, when, being in the latitude of 44° 38' S., longitude 161° 27' W.,

we had a few hours calm. The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, with

which we stood to the north. The wind increased and blew in squalls,

attended with rain, which at last brought us under our courses; and at two

o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie-to under

the foresail, having a very hard gale from E.N.E., and a great sea from the

same direction.[3]

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate,

we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sails

close-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the north, we

tacked and stretched to the S.E., being at this time in the latitude of 42°

53' S., longitude 163° 20' W.

We continued to stretch to the S.E., with a fresh gale and fair weather,

till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when we stood again to

the N.E., till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours

calm, which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this time we

were in the latitude of 42° 32', longitude 161° 15' W. The wind remained

not long at west, before it veered back to the E. by the N., and kept

between the S.E. and N.E., but never blew strong.

On July 2d, being in the latitude of 53° 3', longitude 156° 17' W., we had

again a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of no

longer continuance than before. For the next day it returned to the E. and

S.E., blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain.

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41° 22', longitude 156° 12' W., we had

two hours calm; in which time Mr Wales went on board the Adventure to

compare the watches, and they were found to agree, allowing for the

difference of their rates of going: A probable, if not a certain proof,

that they had gone well since we had been in this sea.

The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south; between which point and

the N.W., it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong.

It was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from the S.W. and W., a

sure indication that no large land was near in those directions. We now

steered east, inclining to the south, and on the 10th, in the latitude of

43° 39', longitude 144° 43' W., the variation was found, by several

azimuths, to be more than 3° E., but the next morning it was found to be 4°

5' 30", and in the afternoon, 5° 56' E. The same day, at noon, we were in

the latitude of 43° 44', longitude 141° 56' W.

At nine o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed as

follows, viz.

Self 1st set 139° 47' 15"

Ditto, 2d set 140 7 30

Mr Wales 1st set 141 22 15

Mr Wales 2d set 140 10 0

Mr Clerke 140 56 45

Mr Gilbert 140 2 0

--------------

Mean 140 24 17-1/2 West.

This differed from my reckoning only 2° 1/2. The next morning, in the

latitude of 43° 3', longitude 139° 20' W., we had several lunar

observations, which were consonant to those made the day before, allowing

for the ship's run in the time. In the afternoon we had, for a few hours,

variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from the

N.E., blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and

some rain.

We stretched to the S.E. till five o'clock in the afternoon on the 14th, at

which time, being in the latitude of 43° 15', longitude 137° 39' W., we

tacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a very hard gale

with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, when

it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42° 39',

longitude 137° 58' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze

from S.W., which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S.S.W,

with it we steered N.E. 1/2 E. in the latitude of 41° 25', longitude 135°

58' W., we saw floating in the sea a billet of wood, which seemed to be

covered with barnacles; so that there was no judging how long it might have

been there, or from whence or how far it had come.

We continued to steer N.E. 1/2 E., before a very strong gale which blew in

squalls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea from

the same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39°

44', longitude 133° 32' W., which was a degree and a half farther east than

I intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the north in

1769, and the return to the south in the same year, and seeing no signs of

land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of the

sea lying between the two tracks just mentioned, down as low as the

latitude of 27°, a space that had not been visited by any preceding

navigator that I knew of.[4]

On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36° 34', longitude 133° 7' W., we

steered N. 1/2 W., having still the advantage of a hard gale at south,

which the next day veered to S.E. and E., blew hard and by squalls,

attended with rain and thick hazy weather. This continued till the evening

of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind

backed to the S. and S.E.

We were now in the latitude of 32° 30', longitude 133° 40' W., from this

situation we steered N.N.W. till noon the next day, when we steered a point

more to the west; being at this time in the latitude of 31° 6', longitude

134° 12' W. The weather was now so warm, that it was necessary to put on

lighter clothes; the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 63. It had

never been lower than 46, and seldom higher than 54, at the same time of

the day, since we left New Zealand.[5]

This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird. Not one had passed

since we left the land, without seeing some of the following birds, viz.

albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens.

But these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higher

latitudes: Not a bird, nor any other thing, was seen that could induce us

to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land.

The wind kept veering round from the S. by the W. to N.N.W., with which we

stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29°

22', we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a

very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls as to

split the most of our sails. This weather continued till the morning of the

25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N.W. and W.N.W.,

with which we steered and stretched to N.E., being at that time in the

latitude of 29° 51', longitude 130° 28' W. In the afternoon the sky cleared

up, and the weather became fair and settled. We now met the first tropic

bird we had seen in this sea.

On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44', we had

several observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135° 30'

W. My reckoning at the same time was 135° 27', and I had no occasion to

correct it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to the north,

with light breezes from the westward, till noon, the next day, when we were

stopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27° 53', longitude 135°

17' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the N. and

N.W., with which we plied to the N.

On the 29th I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of her

crew, having heard that they were sickly; and this I now found was but too

true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in the

scurvy and flux. At this time _we_ had only three men on the sick list, and

only one of them attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began to

shew symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade of

carrots, rob of lemons and oranges.

I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship than

the other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being more

scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to their

eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound,

partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it was a new

diet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To introduce any

new article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for their good,

requires both the example and authority of a commander; without both, of

which it will be dropt before the people are sensible of the benefits

resulting from it. Were it necessary, I could name fifty instances in

support of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well seamen, at

first disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in the peas and

wheat; and some refused to eat it. But, as this had no effect on my

conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice by little and little wore off;

they began to like it as well as the others; and now, I believe, there was

hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our being so free from the

scurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of at New Zealand. After

this I seldom found it necessary to order any of my people to gather

vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, happy

was he who could lay hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to be

cook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, desiring him to make

use of every method in his power to stop the spreading of the disease

amongst his people, and proposing such as I thought might tend towards it.

But I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been used

they could think of.[6]

The wind continued in the N.W. quarter, and blew fresh at times, attended

with rain; with which we stood to the N.E. On the 1st of August, at noon,

we were in the latitude of 25° 1', longitude 134° 6' W., and had a great

hollow swell from N.W. The situation we were now in, was nearly the same

that Captain Carteret assigns for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in

1767. We therefore looked well out for it, but saw nothing. According to

the longitude in which he has placed it, we must have passed about fifteen

leagues to the west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think it

prudent, considering the situation of the Adventure's people, to lose any

time in looking for it. A sight of it would, however, have been of use in

verifying, or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of the

others that Captain Carteret discovered in this neighbourhood; his

longitude not being confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, and

therefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct.

As we had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, all hopes

of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to

find, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is on this and

my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards,

without meeting any thing that in the least induced me to think I should

find what I was in search after. On the contrary, every thing conspired to

make me believe there is no southern continent, between the meridian of

America and New Zealand; at least, this passage did not produce any

indubitable signs of any, as will appear by the following remarks. After

leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw floating on the sea rock-

weed, for the space of 18° of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in

1769, we also saw this weed, for the space of 12 or 14° of longitude before

we made the land. The weed is undoubtedly the produce of New Zealand;

because the nearer the coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatest

distance from the coast, we saw it only in small pieces, generally more

rotten, and covered with barnacles, an indubitable sign that it had been

long at sea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that some

other large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extent

of coast to produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a space

of sea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of the

straits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S.E., which

continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177° W., and latitude 46°.

There we had large billows from the N. and N.E., for five days

successively, and until we got 5° of longitude more to the east, although

the wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This was

a strong indication that there was no land between us and my track to the

west in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans, large

billows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but more

especially from the S.W. These billows never ceased with the cause that

first put them in motion; a sure indication that we were not near any large

land, and that there is no continent to the south, unless in a very high

latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to opinions and

conjectures. Facts were to determine it, and these could only be obtained

by visiting the southern parts; which was to be the work of the ensuing

summer, agreeable to the plan I had laid down. As the winds continued to

blow from the N.W. and W., we had no other choice but to stand to the

north, inclining more or less every day to the east. In the latitude of 21°

we saw flying-fish, gannets, and egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boat

out, and sent for Captain Furneaux to dinner, from whom I learnt that his

people were much better, the flux having left them, and the scurvy was at a

stand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the

scorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. The

weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed to

announce the approach of the so-much-wished-for trade-wind; which, at eight

o'clock in the evening, after two hours calm, and some heavy showers of

rain, we actually got at S.E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19°

36' S., longitude 131° 32" W. The not meeting with the S.E. trade-wind

sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I directed my

course to the W.N.W., as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get to

the north of the islands discovered in my former voyage; that if any other

islands lay in the way, I might have a chance to discover them.[7] During

the day-time we made all the sail we could; but, in the night, either run

an easy sail, or lay-to. We daily saw flying-fish, albacores, dolphins,

&c., but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could we catch any of

them. This required some art, which none of my people were masters of.

On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer

approach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the

direction of N.W. and S.E., and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa-

nut trees shewed their lofty heads. I judged it to be one of those isles

discovered by Mr Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17° 24',

longitude 141° 39' W., and I called it after the name of the ship,

Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it

necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, where I was sure

of finding refreshments. Consequently I did not wait to examine this

island, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued our

course to the west, and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from

the mast-head, bearing W. by S. Probably this was another of Bougainville's

discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island, and it lies in the latitude of 17°

20', longitude 141° 38' W. I was sorry I could not spare time to haul to

the north of Mr Bougainville's track; but the getting to a place where we

could procure refreshments, was more an object at this time than

discovery.[8]

During the night we steered W. by N., in order to pass the north of the

island above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered land

right a-head, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us of our

danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned

islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit.

A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets ranged

along the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. These

islets were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees were only

distinguishable. We ranged the south side of this isle or shoal at the

distance of one or two miles from the coral-bank, against which the sea

broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, in

which was a canoe under sail.

This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude of

17° 5', longitude 143° 16' W. The situation is nearly the same that is

assigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here observe,

that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in this

part of the ocean,) Mr Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to that

degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We

were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes

of the isles he discovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned

in his narrative. Without waiting to examine this island we continued to

steer to the west, all sails set, till six o'clock in the evening, when we

shortened sail to three top-sails, and at nine brought-to.

The next morning at four a.m. we made sail, and at daybreak saw another of

these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17° 4', longitude 144° 30'

W., which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. de Bougainville very

properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous

Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we

were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with the

utmost caution, especially in the night.

At five o'clock p.m. we again saw land, bearing S.W. by S., which we

afterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But as

I was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the delay

which lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter, and

manned her with an officer and seven men, with orders to keep as far a-head

of the ships, with a light at her masthead, as a signal could be

distinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. In

this manner we continued to run all night; and, at six o'clock the next

morning, I called her on board, and hoisted her in. For it did not appear

she would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell

from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands;

therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting with

any danger.[9]

[1] Great shoals of cetaceous fish, of a perfectly black colour, with

a white spot before the back-fin, passed by us. They were fired at

from our vessel, and one of them being shot through the head, could no

longer plunge under water, but began to beat about furiously on the

surface, and tinged the sea with its blood. It seemed to be about

three yards long, and was slender and blunt-headed, from whence our

sailors called it the Bottle-nose, a name which Dale applies to a very

different fish, the beaked whale, of which the beak or nose resembles

the neck of a bottle."--G.F.

[2] "Beds of sea-weeds frequently were seen floating on the sea, but

we were now too much accustomed to their appearance, to attempt to

draw any conclusions from it. The thermometer, which at our departure

from New Zealand, stood at 51° at eight o'clock in the morning, sunk

in proportion as we came to the southward to 48°, and sometimes to

47°, at the same time of day; but the temperature of the air upon the

whole was extremely variable, and the weather equally unsettled. From

thence it arose, that we daily observed rainbows, or parts of them

about the horizon, especially in the morning. The wind during this

time was likewise very changeable, and veered round the compass in a

direction contrary to the course of the sun, that is, from west round

by the north towards east, and so further on; but it chiefly prevailed

from the easterly quarter, where we least expected it, so that our

situation became tedious, and was made more irksome by frequent fogs,

rains, and heavy swells."--G.F.

[3] According to Sir G.F., it seems that the venereal disease made its

appearance on some of the Adventure's crew, as was intimated by

Captain Furneaux to Captain Cook, during a visit paid to the latter.

In the opinion of Mr F., who is at some pains to investigate the

subject, this disease was indigenous in New Zealand where the sailors

contracted it, and not imported there by Europeans. This opinion is,

no doubt, in confirmation of what the writer has elsewhere stated to

be his own as to the general question respecting the origin of the

disease; but he is bound in candour to admit, that it seems to rest on

rather slender evidence and insufficient reasoning, in the present

instance--so that he is less disposed to avail himself of it. Mr F.

himself is not positive as to the facts on which he founds his

opinion, and consequently is not so as to the opinion. This is to be

inferred from his concluding remarks, which, besides, exhibit so fair

a specimen of just indignation and regret, as may deserve to be

offered to the reader's notice. "If," says he, "in spite of

appearances, our conclusions should prove erroneous, it is another

crime added to the score of civilized nations, which must make their

memory execrated by the unhappy people, whom they have poisoned.

Nothing can in the least atone for the injury they have done to

society, since the price at which their libidinous enjoyments were

purchased, instils another poison into the mind, and destroys the

moral principles, while the disease corrupts and enervates the body. A

race of men, who, amidst all their savage roughness, their fiery

temper, and cruel customs, are brave, generous, hospitable, and

incapable of deceiving, are justly to be pitied, that love, the source

of their sweetest and happiest feelings, is converted into the origin

of the most dreadful scourge of life." In this last paragraph, there

is reason to imagine Mr F. has somewhat overstepped the modesty of

both history and nature--the former, by too high commendation of the

New Zealanders, who, whatever merit they may claim on other grounds,

can scarcely be said, at least if facts are to be trusted, to be

incapable of deceiving; and the latter, in ascribing greater influence

to _love_ among these savages, than perhaps will ever be found

realised in such a condition of our nature. One cannot believe, that

so philosophical an enquirer should impute much efficacy as a source

of happiness to the mere brute passion; and it is equally unlikely

that so acute an observer should discover any thing more refined than

such an appetite in the sexual intercourse among so rude a tribe.

Probably then his language is fully more poetic than becomes the sober

narrator. This, indeed, is nowise uncommon with him, as the reader

perhaps is already convinced. But this very circumstance, it is

obvious, is to his advantage as a writer.--E.

[4] "The uncomfortable season of the year, the many contrary winds,

and the total want of interesting incidents, united to make this run

extremely tedious to us all, and the only point we gained by it, was

the certainty that no great land was situated in the South Sea about

the middle latitudes."--G.F.

[5] "The spirits of all our people were much exhilarated in proportion

as we approached to the tropics, and our sailors diverted themselves

with a variety of plays every evening. The genial mildness of the air

was so welcome to us, after a long absence from it, that we could not

help preferring the warm climates as the best adapted for the abode of

mankind."--G.F.

An observation of this sort, the evident result of experience, is

worth a thousand treatises, in shewing how much man is the creature of

circumstances and situation, and how justly his feelings, and of

consequence his thoughts, are modified by climate and weather. Some

philosophers, and, perhaps, more religionists, have endeavoured to

devise means to render the human mind and character independent of

physical elements. The attempt is just about as rational, and not a

bit less presumptuous, than that of making them free of the Divine

cognizance and authority, to which these elements are subjected. Such

attempts, it seems pretty evident, have been the source of delusive

self-congratulation in all ages of the world, and may be ascribed,

with no very mighty stretch of fancy, to the same busy agent, by whom,

in the earliest stage of our nature, man was tempted with the alluring

hope of becoming "as God." A wiser and more benevolent instructor

would teach him, on the contrary, to acknowledge his dependences and

avoiding forbidden things, to partake with cheerfulness of the

material blessings which surround him. This is genuine confidence in

the Supreme Ruler, though, to be sure, it has little or no charms for

the obstinate stoic, or the conceited pharisee. But "wisdom, it is

certain, will be justified of all who are under its influence."--E.

[6] "The difference between the salubrity of the two vessels probably

arose from the want of fresh air in the Adventure, our sloop being

higher out of the water, so that we could open more scuttles in bad

weather than our consort. Our people likewise made a greater

consumption of sour-krout and wort, and particularly applied the

grains of the latter to all blotches and swelled parts, a regimen

which had been omitted by those in the Adventure."--G.F.

[7] "After many wishes, and long expectation, we this day, (6th

August,) got the S.E. trade-wind. Its manner of coming on was rather

remarkable. About ten o'clock in the morning, a thick haze began to

rise in the eastern quarter, which by noon was become so thick, and

had spread so far, that it was with difficulty we got the sun's

meridian altitude; but the N.W. wind, which we had had for about a

fortnight, during which time the weather was generally fine and

pleasant, still continued to blow. In the afternoon we had some pretty

brisk showers, with which the N.W. wind died away, and it was calm

till eight o'clock in the evening, when a brisk steady gale sprung up

at S.E., and proved permanent."--W.

Mr F. has given some very valuable remarks respecting the trade-winds

but they are too long for this place.--E.

[8] "Our thermometer was now constantly between 70 and 80 degrees in

the morning; but the heat was far from being troublesome, as the fair

weather was accompanied by a strong pleasant trade-wind,"--G.F.

[9] This is a very fit place for the following curious observations on

the formation of the low islands spoken of in the text. "All the low

isles seem to me to be a production of the sea, or rather its

inhabitants, the polype-like animals forming the lithophytes. These

animalcules raise their habitation gradually from a small base, always

spreading more and more, in proportion as the structure grows higher.

The materials are a kind of lime mixed with some animal substance. I

have seen these large structures in all stages, and of various extent.

Near Turtle-Island, we found, at a few miles distance, and to leeward

of it, a considerable large circular reef, over which the sea broke

every where, and no part of it was above water; it included a large

deep lagoon. To the east and north-east of the Society-Isles, are a

great many isles, which, in some parts, are above water; in others,

the elevated parts are connected by reefs, some of which, are dry at

low-water, and others are constantly under water. The elevated parts

consist of a soil formed by a sand of shells and coral rocks, mixed

with a light black mould, produced from putrified vegetables, and the

dung of sea-fowls; and are commonly covered by cocoa-nut trees and

other shrubs, and a few antiscorbutic plants. The lower parts have

only a few shrubs, and the above plants; others still lower, are

washed by the sea at high-water. All these isles are connected, and

include a lagoon in the middle, which is full of the finest fish; and

sometimes there is an opening, admitting a boat, or canoe, in the

reef, but I never saw or heard of an opening that would admit a ship.

The reef, or the first origin of these cells, is formed by the

animalcules inhabiting the lithophytes. They raise their habitation

within a little of the surface of the sea, which gradually throws

shells, weeds, sand, small bits of corals, and other things, on the

tops of these coral rocks, and at last fairly raises them above water;

where the above things continue to be accumulated by the sea, till by

a bird, or by the sea, a few seeds of plants, that commonly grow on

the sea-shore, are thrown up, and begin to vegetate; and by their

annual decay and reproduction from seeds, create a little mould,

yearly accumulated by the mixture from sand, increasing the dry spot

on every side; till another sea happens to carry a cocoa-nut hither,

which preserves its vegetative power a long time in the sea, and

therefore will soon begin to grow on this soil, especially as it

thrives equally in all kinds of soil; and thus may all these low isles

have become covered with the finest cocoa-nut trees. The animalcules

forming these reefs, want to shelter their habitation from the

impetuosity of the winds, and the power and rage of the ocean; but as

within the tropics, the winds blow commonly from one quarter, they, by

instinct, endeavour to stretch only a ledge, within which is a lagoon,

which is certainly entirely screened against the power of both; this,

therefore, might account for the method employed by the animalcules in

building only narrow ledges of coral rocks, to secure in this middle a

calm and sheltered place, and this seems to me to be the most probable

cause of the origin of all the tropical low isles, over the whole

South Sea."--F.

This theory has been pretty generally adopted by scientific men, and

does not seem liable to any valid objection. The astonishment it may

excite, is quite analogous to what is experienced on any discovery of

the important ends to which the instinctive labours of other creatures

are subservient, and is great, merely because of the conceived

magnitude of the object to which it relates. But this affords no

presumption against the truth of the theory; rather indeed, if the

doctrine of final causes be allowed any credit, may be held, as in

some degree, circumstantial evidence in its favour. We shall

elsewhere, it is expected, have occasion to consider the subject with

the attention it deserves.--E.

SECTION X.

_Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical

Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while they

lay in Oaiti-piha Bay._

On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, or

Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after I

brought-to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint

Captain Furneaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near

the south-east end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could

from that part of the island, before we went down to Matavia. This done, we

made sail, and at six in the evening saw the land bearing west. We

continued to stand on till midnight, when we brought-to, till four o'clock

in the morning, and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at

east.[1]

At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef.

The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it

necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all their

efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef.

A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts,

bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which

they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again, and

many enquired for Mr Banks and others who were with me before; but not one

asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still more

dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western

point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the

afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through

which I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found

there was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an in-

draught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to

the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into the stream, they were

carried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived

this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, to

be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the

least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were

not more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find no

bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships.

We, however, dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up,

the ship was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall of

the sea, which broke close under our stem in a dreadful surf, and

threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily,

brought up close upon our bow without striking.

We presently carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each; these

found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew.

By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower-anchor, we got the ship a-

float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every

minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two

by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I

ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw this

was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air

came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon got

clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure,

but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, and

soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable,

and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at

sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we but a few

days before so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into

this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for, had the sea-

breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost,

and probably the Adventure too.

During the lime we were in this critical situation, a number of the natives

were on board and about the ships. They seemed to be insensible of our

danger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we were

striking, and left us a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned.[2]

We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards;

and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in

twelve fathoms water about two cables length from the shore; both ships

being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought

with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananoes, apples, yams, and other roots,

which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselves

chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles, and,

in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls, a promise they never

did, nor ever intended to perform.

In the afternoon, I landed in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to

view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives, I

also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any

left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected,

and the natives to behave with great civility.

Early in the morning, I sent the two launches and the Resolution's cutter,

under the command of Mr Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had

left behind us; they returned about noon, with the Resolution's bower

anchor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off

again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had a

party on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however,

was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (I

was told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was, that they belonged

to Waheatoun the _Earee de hi_, or king, and him we had not yet seen,

nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who called

themselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of getting

presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way.

One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and

made presents to him and all his friends, which were not few; at length he

was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out

of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me

against those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of the

ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone; I was so much exasperated

at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I

fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take to

the water; I then sent a boat to take up the canoe, but as she came near

the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in

some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat

to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired

along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I was

suffered to bring away two canoes without the least shew of opposition. In

one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened, but I soon

dissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few

hours after, we were all good friends again, and the canoes were returned

to the first person who came for them.

It was not till the evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tupia,

and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death,

they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would

have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death

been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry was

made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But

they were continually asking for Mr Banks, and several others who were with

me in my former voyage.

These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula

of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two

kingdoms about five months before, and that _Otoo_ was the reigning

prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends about

Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but,

at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms.

On the 19th, we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of

rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the

Adventure's anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day

before, so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselves

very happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we had

been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast,

we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In

return for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and other

things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he made

but a short stay.

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening,

when one of the natives made off with a musquet belonging to the guard on

shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people after

him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives,

of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took from

him the musquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly

operated more with them than principle. They deserve, however, to be

applauded for this act of justice, for, if they had not given their

immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to have

recovered the musquet, by any gentle means whatever, and by making use of

any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value.

The 21st, the wind was at north, a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made

me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which, were a

number of cocoanuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown,

over board; these he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, that

we did not at first perceive the cheat; when he was told of it, without

betraying the least emotion, and, as if he knew nothing of the matter, he

opened two or three of them himself, signified to us, that he was satisfied

it was so, and then went ashore and sent off a quantity of plantains and

bananoes. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I

determined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely

that I should get an interview with Waheatoua, without which, it was very

improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew my

intention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai, but, in

the morning, the wind blew fresh at N.W., and as we could not sail, I sent

the trading party on shore as usual.

In the evening, I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the

neighourhood, and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I

determined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with this

prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with

Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chief

about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet

us; but, as soon as he saw us, he stopt, with his numerous train, in the

open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people round

him, and knew him at first sight, and he me, having seen each other several

times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of

Tearee, but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoun, he took upon him that

name.

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool

with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to

enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He next

enquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than next

day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came down

to five days, promising, that in that time I should have hogs in plenty;

but, as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, I

could not put any faith in this promise; and yet, I believe, if I had

staid, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I made

him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives,

looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c.; in return, he ordered a pretty good

hog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all the morning, during

which time, he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated.

I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place

by one of his attendants, whom he called stool-bearer. At length we took

leave, in order to return on board to dinner, after which, we visited him

again, and made him more presents, and he, in return, gave Captain Furneaux

and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading

places; so that we got in the whole, to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the

crews of both the ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this

interview with the chief.[3]

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze.

Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls,

attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea,

with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did not leave us till they had

disposed of their cargoes.

The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the

Adventure's sick people; many of them, who had been so ill as not to be

able to move without assistance, were, in this short time so far recovered,

that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, the

Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been

long sick, and who died the second day after our arrival, of a complication

of disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant

Pickersgill, with the cutter, behind the bay, to purchase hogs, as several

had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them.

On the 25th; about noon, Mr Pickersgill returned with eight hogs, which he

got at Oaiti-piha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained

by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable, that this chief

never once asked after Aotouroo, nor did he take the least notice when Mr

Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bougainville tells us, this

is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more

extraordinary, that he should neither enquire after him now, nor when he

was with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. de

Bougainville came from the same country, that is, from _Pretane_, for

so they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any other

European nation, nor probably will they, unless some of those men should

return who had lately gone from the isle, of which mention shall be made

bye and bye. We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from

France, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronounce

that of Paris much better; so that it is not likely that they will remember

either the one or the other long; whereas _Pretane_ is in every

child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the

evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay.

[1] Perhaps few descriptions of natural scenery excel the following,

in real poetic effect:--"It was one of those beautiful mornings which

the poets of all nations have attempted to describe, when we saw the

isle of Otaheite, within two miles before us. The east-wind which had

carried us so far, was entirely vanished, and a faint breeze only

wafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the surface of

the sea. The mountains, clothed with forests, rose majestic in various

spiry forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rising

sun: Nearer to the eye a lower range of hills, easier of ascent,

appeared, wooded like the former, and coloured with several pleasing

hues of green, soberly mixed with autumnal browns. At their foot lay

the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit trees, over which rose

innumerable palms, the princes of the grove. Here everything seemed as

yet asleep, the morning scarce dawned, and a peaceful shade still

rested on the landscape. We discovered, however, a number of houses

among the trees, and many canoes hauled up along the sandy beaches.

About half a mile from the shore a ledge of rocks level with the

water, extended parallel to the land, on which the surf broke, leaving

a smooth and secure harbour within. The sun beginning to illuminate

the plain, its inhabitants arose, and enlivened the scene. Having

perceived the large vessels on their coast, several of them hastened

to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were

highly delighted in watching all their occupations."--G.F.

[2] "The natives on board, seeing us work so hard, assisted us in

manning the capstern, hauling in ropes, and performing all sorts of

labour. If they had had the least spark of a treacherous disposition,

they could not have found a better opportunity of distressing us; but

they approved themselves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all

other occasions."--G.F.

[3] We tried all possible means to engage the people to sell some of

their hogs to us, and offered hatchets, shirts, and other goods of

value to the Taheitans; but still without success, their constant

answer being, that these animals were the king's (aree's) property.

Instead of acquiescing in this refusal, and acknowledging the kind

disposition of the natives, who furnished us at least with the means

of recovering our strength, and restoring our stock, a proposal was

made to the captains, by some persons in the ships, to sweep away, by

force, a sufficient number of hogs for our use, and afterwards to

return such a quantity of our goods in exchange to the natives, as we

should think adequate to the spoil we had taken. This proposal, which

nothing but the most tyrannical principles, and the meanest

selfishness could have dictated, was received with the contempt and

indignation which it justly deserved."--G.F.

This remark is of an earlier date than what is mentioned in the text,

but, in the whole, is more suitably introduced here. It is to the

praise of Cook, that his decision of character was founded on very

liberal views of morality; and that he possessed independence of soul

to manifest abhorrence of sinister suggestions, at the risk of losing

both the advantage aimed at, and the partiality of those who made

them. An apprehension of giving offence to men who are either esteemed

or felt to be useful, has perhaps occasioned as much iniquitous

conduct where the law of the strongest might be adopted, as ever

resulted from the influence of directly vicious principles. But from

this most mischievous weakness, it was one of the excellencies of that

truly great man to be exempt.--E.

SECTION XI.

_An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left on

the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay

in Matavai Bay._

Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; many

of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten

together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going

to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow'd_, and gone to

Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as

every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief, whose name was Maritata, was

at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next

morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did.

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick,

coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree;

accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, Maritata and his

wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated

on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him.

After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articles

as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my

interest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents to

several of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I

refused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_

(friendship). The king enquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were

with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he

was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should have

some hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to

visit me on board. He said he was, _mataou no to poupoue_, that is,

afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions shewed him to be a timorous

prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine,

personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared

uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering,

is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing

above the breast.

When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer's

observatories, set up on the same spot where we observed the transit of

Venus in 1769. In the afternoon, I had the sick landed; twenty from the

Adventure, all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also

landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant

Edgecumbe of the marines.

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid

me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits,

a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself,

with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To

all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, his

sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them

home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old

lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, and

burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty

Toutaha_--(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead.) I was

so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for

me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and

taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see

her again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux,

who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female,

which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them will

no doubt multiply. After a short stay, we look leave and returned on board.

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the

cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, I

had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some

fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on

board; but he and others went to the Adventure with the like present to

Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux

on board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the present

he had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could.

She, the king's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to-

day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were

sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves

in great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said

_Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo

being present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose

from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought

proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I

entertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they are

very fond) and dancing by the seamen. He then ordered some of his people to

dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were some,

however, who could imitate the seamen pretty well, both in country-dances

and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the late

Toutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look upon me without

shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When we

took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said that

I must first come to him. In the evening Mr Pickersgill came back empty,

but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days.

Next morning after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo as he

had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. We

made him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One article

was a broad-sword; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that I had

much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him;

where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off,

and send it out of his sight.

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained with

a dramatic _heuva_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and

comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a

person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only; it

lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, was

well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the

play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was

frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with

us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it,

from those we saw at Ulielea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of the

lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long

tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as all

was over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boat

different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned on

board; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several small

parcels of fish.

Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, when

we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near

the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspected

that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed a

boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and to

bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the

Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for none

were absent from the Resolution but those who were upon duty. The boat soon

returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others belonging to the

Adventure were also taken; and, being all put under confinement, the next

morning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did not

find that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. I

believe this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the

women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled

from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many

miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by

appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place

of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I could

see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night's riot.

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present

suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which

he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing by

not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be but

little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquainted

with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and

opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one for

Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr Forster. This last was small, of which we

complained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into the

circle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptory

manner; saying something or other about hogs. We at first thought he was

angry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the little

pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of

his displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than

either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we

took leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next

day; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We

embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed his

march back to Oparree.

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and

water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I

determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of

September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and the

ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. In

the afternoon, Mr Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place I

had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old

friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress, (I know

not which,) and some more of his friends, came along with Mr Pickersgill,

in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs and some fish;

and Mr Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo; for he went

in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed much

altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she

said to Mr Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is

frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little

or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee, which I believe was

not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly all

day, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged

to dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied

with the reception they had met with.

Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo,

came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might

be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but I

refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail for

his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted

just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father and

son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was farther

confirmed, by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we were

standing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I

now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowing

that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the

matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should go

or stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the

axe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should,) but they

said they were on shore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty

well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the land

astern.[1]

[1] Mr G.F. has been so successful in his Otaheitan delineations, that

though the subject occupied no small space of our preceding volume,

and must again engage our attention, when we treat of Cook's third

voyage, nevertheless we cannot help running the risk of the reader's

impatience by a transcript of some of his sketches. Speaking of the

natives first met with, he says, "The people around us had mild

features, and a pleasing countenance; they were about our size, of a

pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and eyes, and wore a piece of

cloth round their middle of their own manufacture, and another wrapped

about the head in curious picturesque shapes like a turban. Among them

were several females, pretty enough to attract the attention of

Europeans, who had not seen their own countrywomen for twelve long

months past. These wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle,

through which they had passed the head, so that one part of the

garment hung down behind, and the other before, to the knees; a fine

white cloth like a muslin, was passed over this in various elegant

turns round the body, a little below the breast, forming a kind of

tunic, of which one turn sometimes fell gracefully across the

shoulder. If this dress had not entirely that perfect form, so justly

admired in the draperies of the ancient Greek statues, it was however

infinitely superior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to

the human figure, than any modern fashion we had hitherto seen."

"It was not long before some of these good people came aboard. That

peculiar gentleness of disposition, which is their general

characteristic, immediately manifested itself in all their looks and

actions, and gave full employment to those who made the human heart

their study. They expressed several marks of affection in their

countenance, took hold of our hands, leaned on our shoulders, or

embraced us. They admired the whiteness of our bodies, and frequently

pushed aside our clothes from the breast, as if to convince themselves

that we were made like them." According to this gentleman, it was the

women of the "baser sort," who yielded without difficulty to the

solicitations of the sailors. "Some of them," says he, "who came on

board for this purpose, seemed not to be above nine or ten years old,

and had not the least marks of puberty. So early an acquaintance with

the world seems to argue an uncommon degree of voluptuousness, and

cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect, which was

immediately obvious to me, was the low stature of the common class of

people, to which all these prostitutes belonged. Among this whole

order, we saw few persons above the middle size, and many below it; an

observation which confirms what M. de Buffon has very judiciously said

on the subject of early connections of the sexes. Their features were

very irregular, and, in general, very ordinary, except the eyes, which

were always large and full of vivacity; but a natural smile, and a

constant endeavour to please, had so well supplied the want of beauty,

that our sailors were perfectly captivated, and carelessly disposed of

their shirts and clothes, to gratify their mistresses. The simplicity

of their dress, &c. might contribute to this attraction; and the view

of several of these nymphs swimming all nimbly round the sloop, such

as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than sufficient entirety

to subvert the little reason which a mariner might have left to govern

his passions. As trifling circumstances had given occasion to their

taking the water. One of the officers on the quarter-deck intended to

drop a bead into a canoe for a little boy about six years old; by

accident it missed the boat and fell into the sea, but the child

immediately leaped overboard, and diving after it, brought it up

again. To reward his performance, we dropped some more beads to him,

which so tempted a number of men and women, that they amused us with

amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up several

beads scattered at once, but likewise large nails, which, on account

of their weight, descended quickly to a considerable depth. Some of

them continued a long while under water, and the velocity with which

we saw them go down, the water being perfectly clear, was very

surprising. The frequent ablutions of these people seem to make

swimming familiar to them from their earliest childhood; and, indeed,

their easy position in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs, gave

us reason to look on them almost as amphibious creatures." These

trifling ornaments were most eagerly coveted by all ages and sexes,

and often prized much above any other European goods however useful,

so prevalent and powerful is the love of ornament in our species. "The

methods to obtain them from us were very different, and consequently

not always equally successful. When we distributed a few beads to one

set of people, some young fellows would impudently thrust their hands

in between them, and demand their share, as though it had been their

due; these attempts we always made it our business to discourage by a

flat refusal. It was already become difficult to deny a venerable old

man, who, with a hand not yet palsied by age, vigorously pressed ours,

and with a perfect reliance upon our good-nature, whispered the

petition in our ears. The elderly ladies, in general, made sure of a

prize by a little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our

names, and then adopted us as their sons, at the same time introducing

to us the several relations, whom we acquired by this means. After a

series of little caresses, the old lady began, _Aima poe-èetee no te

tayo mettua?_ "Have you not a little bead for your kind mother?" Such

a trial of our filial attachment always had its desired effect, as we

could not fail to draw the most favourable conclusions from thence in

regard to the general kind disposition of the whole people: for to

expect a good quality in others, of which we ourselves are not

possessed, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polished nations.

Our other female relations in the bloom of youth, with some share of

beauty, and constant endeavours to please, laid a claim to our

affections by giving themselves the tender name of sisters; and all

the world will agree that this attack was perfectly irresistible." But

it must not be imagined that the fair sisters in this happy island,

any more than elsewhere, were exempt from certain ruder passions, by

which, at times, they seem to vie with the lords of the creation. Mr

F. has preserved a very characteristic trait of such a spirit of

domination in his account of one of the Potatow's wives, which may be

read, but it is to be hoped will not be imitated, by any of our female

friends. "Polatehera," says Mr F. "was so like him in stature and

bulk, (one of the tallest and stoutest men in the island,) that we

unanimously looked upon her as the most extraordinary woman we had

ever seen. Her appearance and her conduct were masculine in the

highest degree, and strongly conveyed the idea of superiority and

command. When the Endeavour bark lay here, she had distinguished

herself by the name of Captain Cook's sister, and one day, being

denied admittance into the fort on Point Venus, had knocked down the

sentry who opposed her, and complained to her adopted brother of the

indignity which had been offered to her." Altogether, however, this

gentleman is the eulogist of the natives and country of Otaheite, and

admits, that he left them with great regret. We shall conclude our

extracts from his description, by the following remarks as to the

language:--"Many of them seeing us desirous of learning their

language, by asking the names of various familiar objects, or

repeating such as we found in the vocabularies of former voyages, took

great pains to teach us, and were much delighted when we could catch

the just pronunciation of a word. For my own part, no language seemed

easier to acquire than this; every harsh and sibilant consonant being

banished from it, and almost every word ending in a vowel. The only

requisite, was a nice ear to distinguish the numerous modifications of

the vowels which must naturally occur in a language confined to few

consonants, and which, once rightly understood, give a great degree of

delicacy to conversation. Amongst several observations, we immediately

found that the O or E with which the greatest part of the names and

words in (the account of) Lieutenant Cook's first voyage, is nothing

else than the article, which many eastern languages affix to the

greater part of their substantives." He applies this observation to

the name of the island which he thinks has been fortunately expressed

by M. Bougainville in French, by Taiti, without the initial vowel

usually given to it in English books.--E.

SECTION XII.

_An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidents

that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives,

coming away in the Adventure._

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course

for the island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next

day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of the

island. At day-light, in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for the

harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o'clock,

in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chose

to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution

turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the

north side of the channel. I had the Resolution's launch in the water

ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to the

Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, without

receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to

us, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and as soon

as the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was

received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some

presents among them; and they presently after brought down hogs, fowls,

dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails,

beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we

had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and

fowls; and to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I

learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and

that he was hastening to this part to see me.

Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a

trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another

trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see

that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary

point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went,

accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to pay my first visit to

Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the place

by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till

we had gone through some part of the following ceremony usually performed

at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat in which we were desired to

remain being landed before the chief's house, which stood close to the

shore, five young plaintain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were

brought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with

their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three;

and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather too

mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me the

inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him in

July 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece

of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time;

which shews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made an

end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who

still remained with us, desired us to decorate the young plaintain trees

with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly

done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the

chief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to

pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and

our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as

the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the

second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or

friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told that

he would come to me; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and

embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears which trickled

plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the

language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were

introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of

the most valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. In

return he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all our

wants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept his

word. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and, some time after,

Mr Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by

exchanges on shore, and along-side the ships; besides fowls and fruit in

abundance.[1]

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th,

together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for

which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not

to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready dressed

fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being again

sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with

twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and

along-side the ships.

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people,

were sent on shore as usual; and, after breakfast, I went to the place

myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesome

and insolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the

war habit, with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I took

these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty,

forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief,

this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for a

guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, Mr

Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was set upon by two

men, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers,

and struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him no

harm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; after

which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and

conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the

inhabitants. The very instant Mr Sparrman appeared in the condition I have

just mentioned, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. I at first

conjectured they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived upon Mr

Sparrman's relating the affair to us. As soon as I could recal a few of the

natives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injure

those who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking

with us the man who came back with Mr Sparrman, to confirm the complaint.

As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did

many others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began to

expostulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could understand)

how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how

base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute

account of the things Mr Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in

his power to recover them, and, rising up, desired me to follow him to my

boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his

safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt,

thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they

could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my

power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they shewed was inexpressible;

every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted

to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for I

could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said, or

done, availed nothing. He insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no

sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit

equal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose

his going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us in

search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as was convenient by

water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland,

the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he

stepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and

after we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther. But this

I opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of

the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our

hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many

arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boat

round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I

thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was

obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no

farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I found

that the thieves had got so much start of us, that we might follow them to

the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them. Besides, as

I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by

putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so much

alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief. It

therefore became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things to

their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree's

sister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place.

We immediately stepped into the boat in order to return on board, without

so much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on going

also, and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition and

entreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and the

tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years

of age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at table

with us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, eat

nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence they

had put in me; and, soon after, carried them both on shore, where some

hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their

chief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: The people crowded in,

from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled

two boats: Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity of

fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr Sparrman had lost) with part

of his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the others

the next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had

some things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner.

Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been the

more particular in relating, because it shews what great confidence this

brave old chief put in us; it also in some degree shews, that friendship is

sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the forms

customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken

by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the great

argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into my

boat. His words were to this effect:--"Oree (meaning me, for so I was

always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit his

friendship; why then should I not go with him?" We, however, may never find

another chief who will act in the same manner, under similar circumstances.

It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing. For it

was not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment

longer than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? They

were not ignorant, that if he was once in my power, the whole force of the

island could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransom

have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far their

fears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason.

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to

pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr

Forster. We took with us for a present, such things as were not only

valuable, but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he had

before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved

these words: "Anchored here, his "Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and

Adventure, September, 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a

bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the first

ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and,

after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we

took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At

this interview nothing was said about the remainder of Mr Sparrman's

clothes. I judged they were not brought in; and for that reason did not

mention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not give

him time to recover; for this was early in the morning.

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full

of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on

board, before Oree himself came to inform me, as we understood, that the

robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or

to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution was

just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief

stayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea; then took a

most affectionate leave of me; and went away in a canoe, conducted by one

man and himself; all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that

it was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner

these people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was what

brought him on board.

During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, we

procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and

fruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more: For none of

these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared every

where in as great abundance as ever.[2]

Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board

his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea; where he had had some

property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at

first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with

this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of

these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank;

nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion: For their people of the

first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and more

intelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be

ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my

error: For excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue

than that of the _Earees_, or gentry, who, as in other countries, live

a more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I much

doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general

satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very good

understanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural good

behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company; and a proper

degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of

inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has

judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper excess. I do not

imagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into

company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation,

I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause of

those with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him, he perceived that

drinking was very little in use but among inferior people, and as he was

very watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank who

honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I never

heard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two

years, he ever once was disguised with wine, or ever shewed an inclination

to go beyond the strictest rules of moderation.

Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord of

the Admiralty, introduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with a

most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty and

gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he will

preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us he was

caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the

esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl of

Sandwich, Mr Banks, and Dr Solander; the former probably thought it a duty

of his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable

country, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been

alleviated and supplied in the most ample manner; the others, as a

testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with

during their residence in his country. It is to be observed, that though

Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, his

return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was

not impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return

approached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted out

for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full

of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among

us.

[1] "On the walk to Oree's house, Dr Sparrman and I saw great numbers

of hogs, dogs, and fowls. The last roamed about at pleasure through

the woods, and roosted on fruit-trees; the hogs were likewise allowed

to run about, but received regular portions of food, which were

commonly distributed by old women. We observed one of them, in

particular, feeding a little pig with the same fermented bread-fruit

paste, called _mahei_; she held the pig with one hand, and offered it

a tough pork's skin, but as soon as it opened the mouth to snap at it,

she contrived to throw in a handful of the same paste, which the

little animal would not take without this stratagem. The dogs, in

spite of their stupidity, were in high favour with all the women, who

could not have nursed them with a more ridiculous affection, if they

had really been ladies of fashion in Europe. We were witnesses of a

remarkable instance of kindness, when we saw a middle-aged woman,

whose breasts were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy,

which had been trained up to suck them. We were so much surprised at

this sight, that we could not help expressing our dislike of it; but

she smiled at our observation, and added, that she suffered little

pigs to do the same service. Upon enquiry, however, we found that she

had lost her child, and did her the justice amongst ourselves to

acknowledge, that this expedient was very innocent, and formerly

practised in Europe."--G.F.

He might have added, and still is. It is quite usual in this country

to use puppies in order to draw the breasts, when distended with milk,

from the want or inability of a child to suck them. But it is,

perhaps, quite erroneous to ascribe the practice to affection or

kindness, in either Europe or Otaheite.--E.

[2] "The people of this island appeared to be so exactly like the

Taheitians, that we could perceive no difference, nor could we by any

means verify that assertion of former navigators, that the women of

this island were in general fairer, and more handsome; but this may

vary according to circumstances. They were, however, not so

troublesome in begging for beads and other presents, nor so forward to

bestow their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and

putting off, some of the common sort frequently performed an indecent

ceremony, which is described in the accounts of former voyages, but

without any of the preparatory circumstances which Ooratooa practised.

We had likewise much less reason to extol the hospitality of the

inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent,

and the Taheitian custom of reciprocal presents almost entirely

unknown. On our walks, we were unmolested, (Mr F. relates also the

assault of Dr Sparrman) but their conduct was bolder and more

unconcerned than that of the Taheitians, and the explosion, as well as

the effects of our fowling-pieces, did not strike them with fear and

astonishment. These differences were certainly owing to the various

treatment which the people of both islands had met with on the part of

Europeans. There were, however, not wanting instances of hospitality

and good-will even here."--G.F.

SECTION XIII.

_Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account of

what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in the

Resolution._

The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I

intended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the

close of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was dark, but

we were sufficiently guided by the fishers lights on the reefs and shores

of the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we gained the

entrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boat

to lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as the

signal was made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of the

channel; and, with our sails set, shooting within the boat, we anchored in

seventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawsers, to warp

in by; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the way, the Adventure

came up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The warping in,

and mooring the ships, took up the whole day.

We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the

natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter

they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, having

already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however,

obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs,

pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them into the

ship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would or no; for if

we refused to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. In

this manner, did these good people welcome us to their country.

I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much enquired after at Huaheine;

but, at this place, every one asked about him, and the occasion of his

death; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the

answers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, the

story was the same, by whomsoever told.

Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the

isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort of

ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated in

his own house, which stood near the water side, where he and his friends

received us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing

me again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordingly

agreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show

to a stranger. He enquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who

were with me when I first visited the island. After we had made the chief

and his friends the necessary presents, we went on board with a hog, and

some fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave me

another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment.

Exchanges for fruit, &c. were mostly carried on alongside the ships. I

attempted to trade for these articles on shore, but did not succeed, as the

most of them were brought in canoes from distant parts, and carried

directly to the ships.

After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a

visit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic

_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of

three drums, the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief's

daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed by

a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently

displayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discovered

before the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensues

with those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the

stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in

triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full

expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before

been informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and

had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good

_tiparahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on

such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are

certainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob with

impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, we

returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk on

shore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands,

two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distance

from hence.[1]

On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a

youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog and some

fruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a

shirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself.

Having staid some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after, but

to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place where

he found the boat, into which he put a hog and a quantity of fruit, without

saying a word to any body, and, with some of his friends, came on board,

and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal

chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him,

as a present, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome return. Oreo

employed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them),

and he made such bargains as I had reason to be satisfied with. At length

they all took leave, after making me promise to visit them next morning;

which I accordingly did, in company with several of the officers and

gentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to be acted for our entertainment,

in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This _heava_

was somewhat different from the one I saw before, and not so entertaining.

Oreo, after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his

friends.

The following day was spent much in the same manner; and early in the

morning of the 14th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the Resolution's launch,

and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional supply of

bananoes, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get little more of

these articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption.

Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. I

acquainted the chief, that I would dine with him, and desired he would

order two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which he accordingly did,

and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both ships,

went to partake of them. When we came to the chiefs house, we found the

cloth laid; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Round

them we seated ourselves; presently one of the pigs came over my head souce

upon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly to

be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit and

plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being

ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it

must be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never

cleaner, nor better dressed. For, though the pigs were served up whole, and

one weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as

much, yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much sweeter than

if dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other of

his male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat

behind: For we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said we

dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira

whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he

dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we had

dined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and those about

them, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common people

rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they

searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe, that though

there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share.

Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed and

dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into ten or

twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several daily

attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrails

of the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share of the

common people. It however must be owned, that they are exceedingly careful

of every kind of provision, and waste nothing that can be eaten by man;

flesh and fish especially.

In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been

acted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain

_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both.[2]

Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous

disposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of them

came off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure having

staid on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first conjectures were,

that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come near us,

lest we should take some step to revenge the insult; but in order to be

better satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, which

we found quite empty; he and all his family gone, and the whole

neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. The two men belonging to the

Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been very

civilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause of

their precipitate flight. All that we could learn from the very few that

durst come near us, was, that severals were killed, others wounded by our

guns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c.

This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for the safety of our

people gone to Otaha, fearing that some disturbance had happened at that

island. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible,

to see the chief himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one

of the natives with us, and rowed along shore to the northward, the way we

were told he was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was;

but before we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landed

presently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd,

however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man

offered to carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather more

mysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separate

myself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We soon came

before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boat

accordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where we were met

by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw herself into my arms,

and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one plain word

from her. With this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to the

advice of my young man from Otaheite, who was more afraid than any of us,

probably believing every word the people had told us. I found the chief

seated under the shade of a house, before which was a large area, and

surrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as I came to him, he threw

his arms about me, and burst into tears, in which he was accompanied by all

the women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general;

astonishment alone kept me from joining with them. It was some time before

I could get a word from any one; at last, all my enquiries gave me no other

information, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats being

absent, thinking that the people in them had deserted from us, and that I

should take some violent means to recover them. For when we assured them

that the boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and

to a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people,

and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the least

foundation for these alarms, nor could we ever find out by what means this

general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour, I

returned on board, three of the natives coming along with us, who

proclaimed the peace as we rowed along shore to all they saw.

Thus matters were again restored to their former footing, and the next

morning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, Captain

Furneaux and I paid the chief a visit; we found him at his own house

perfectly easy, insomuch that he and some of his friends came on board and

dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had

taken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned _before_, his

being with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on shore.

He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained in the boat till he

heard all matters were reconciled; then he came out, and presently after,

met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship. Having my

powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was by

me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more.

In the afternoon, our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with

plantains, an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of the

island, conducted by one of the Earees, whose name was Boba, and were

hospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with victuals and

lodging. The first night, they were entertained with a play, the second,

their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing their military chest.

This put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the most

of what they had lost.

Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to put

to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promised

to see me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; and

as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, came

aboard. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs, the latter they even

begged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo boa atoi_.--I am

your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But our decks. were already

so full of them, that we could hardly move, having, on board both ships,

between three and four hundred. By the increase of our stock, together with

what we had salted and consumed, I judge that we got at this island 400 or

upwards; many, indeed, were only roasters, others again weighed one hundred

pounds, or upwards, but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is not

easy to say how many we might have got, could we have found room for all

that were offered us.

The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under sail, and

before he went away, pressed me much to know, if I would not return, and

when? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. My

Otaheitean youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young men

of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper

to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age,

named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great

Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and

had made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted by two men;

whereupon I brought-to, and they presently came alongside, having brought

me a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made them a proper

return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with the

Adventure in company.

[1] "The accounts of the situation and distances of these isles, were

so various and so vague, that we could by no means depend upon them,

for we never met with any man who had visited them; however, they

served to convince us, that the natives of the Society Isles have

sometimes extended their navigation farther than its present limits,

by the knowledge they have of several adjacent countries. Tupaya

(Tupia), the famous man who embarked at Taheitee in the Endeavour, had

enumerated a much more considerable list of names, and had actually

drawn a map of their respective situations and magnitudes, of which

Lieutenant Pickersgill obligingly communicated a copy to me. In this

map we found all the names now mentioned, except two; but if his

drawing had been exact, our ships must have sailed over a number of

the islands which he had laid down. It is therefore very probable,

that the vanity of appearing more intelligent than he really was, had

prompted him to produce this fancied chart of the South Sea, and

perhaps to invent many of the names of islands in it, which amounted

to more than fifty."--G.F.

[2] Some of our readers might be profited, perhaps, by considering the

moral of the following incident, which occurred at this play.--"Among

the spectators we observed several of the prettiest women of this

country; and one of them was remarkable for the whitest complexion we

had ever seen on all these islands. Her colour resembled that of white

wax a little sullied, without having the least appearance of sickness,

which that hue commonly conveys; and her fine black eyes and hair

contrasted so well with it, that she was admired by us all. She

received at first a number of little presents, which were so many

marks of homage paid at the shrine of beauty; but her success, instead

of gratifying, only sharpened her love of trinkets, and she

incessantly importuned every one of us, as long as she suspected we

had a single bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to

have a little padlock in his hand, which she begged for as soon as she

had perceived it. After denying it for some time, he consented to give

it her, and locked it in her ear, assuring her that was its proper

place. She was pleased for some time; but finding it too heavy,

desired him to unlock it. He flung away the key, giving her to

understand, at the same time, that he had made her the present at her

own desire, and that if she found it encumbered her, she should bear

it as a punishment for importuning us with her petitions. She was

disconsolate upon this refusal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us

all to open the padlock; but if we had been willing, we were not able

to comply with her request, for want of the key. She applied to the

chief, and he as well as his wife, son, and daughter, joined in

praying for the release of her ear: They offered cloth, perfume-wood,

and hogs, but all in vain. At last a small key was found to open the

padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and restored

peace and tranquillity among all her friends. Her adventure had,

however, this good effect, that it cured her, and some of her forward

country-women, of this idle habit of begging."--G.F.

SECTION XIV.

_An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of the

Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of the

Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected._

I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although I

have been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things,

which are rather interesting, have been omitted.

Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship about the

size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S.E. end

of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been gone

about three months before we arrived. We were told that four of the natives

were gone away with her, whose names were Debedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee,

and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French ship, but, on

our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, which

had been sent out from America.[1] The Otaheiteans complained of a disease

communicated to them by the people in this ship, which they said affected

the head, throat, and stomach, and at length killed them. They seemed to

dread it much, and were continually enquiring if we had it. This ship they

distinguished by the name of _Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), and

called the disease _Apa no Pep-pe_, just as they call the venereal

disease _Apa no Pretane_ (English disease), though they, to a man, say

it was brought to the isle by M. de Bougainville; but I have already

observed that they thought M. de Bougainville came from _Pretane_, as

well as every other ship which has touched at the isle.

Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's

people being affected with the venereal disease, either while they were at

Otaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded that long before

these islanders were visited by Europeans, this or some disease which is

near akin to it, had existed amongst them. For I have heard them speak of

people dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox before that

period. But, be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them,

than it was in the year 1769, when I first visited these isles. They say

they can cure it, and so it fully appears, for, notwithstanding most of my

people had made pretty free with the women, very few of them were

afterwards affected with the disorder; and those who were, had it in so

slight a manner, that it is easily removed. But among the natives, whenever

it turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretend

to have seen some of them who had this last disorder in a high degree, but

the surgeon, who made it his business to enquire, could never satisfy

himself in this point. These people are, and were, before Europeans visited

them, very subject to scrophulous diseases, so that a seaman might easily

mistake one disorder for another.[2]

The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were,

swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals,

that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few

they had at this time, among them, seemed to be at the disposal of the

kings. For while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or

lesser peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw we were told belonged to

Waheatoua; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater

peninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this

island, we got but twenty-four hogs, the half of which came from the two

kings themselves; and, I believe, the other half were sold us by their

permission or order. We were, however, abundantly supplied with all the

fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season

either at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we

got the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, were

to us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples,

and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeva_. This fruit was

common to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found them

of infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds that have been

brought to those islands by Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins;

and these they do not like, which is not to be wondered at.

The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, to the

number which have been consumed, and carried off by the shipping which have

touched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars between the

two kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767; at present a peace

subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much friendship

for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who got

the better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an end to the dispute,

many were killed on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and

several other chiefs, who were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies

interred in the family Marai at Oparree; and his mother, and several other

women who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo, the

reigning prince--a man who, at first, did not appear to us to much

advantage. I know but little of Waheatoua of Tiarrabou. This prince, who is

not above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man of

fifty. His subjects do not uncover before him, or pay him any outward

obeisance as is done to Otoo; nevertheless, they seem to shew him full as

much respect, and he appeared in rather more state. He was attended by a

few middle-aged, or elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This is

what appeared to me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands,

that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing state

than they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed

the blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any under

heaven; and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, but

many of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young man

told me that hogs, fowls, and fruits, are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a

thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seeming

contradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and the

other in favour of, this isle.

The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c.

having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will

be unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless where I can

add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been committed.

As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs,

human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day to

a _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having with

us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke their

language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appeared

to be an intelligent sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a

_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thing

promised success to my enquiries. I began with asking questions relating to

the several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the

_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls,

&c.? To all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, If they

sacrificed men to the _Eatua_? He answered _Taata eno_; that is,

bad men they did, first _Tipperahy_, or beating them till they were

dead. I then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? His

answer was No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him if any _Earees_

were? He said, they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and again

repeated _Taatu eno_. I next asked, If _Towtows_, that is,

servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men,

if they were sacrificed to the _Eatua_? His answer was No, only bad

men. I asked him several more questions, and all his answers seemed to tend

to this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned to be

sacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem

themselves. This, I think, implies, that on some occasions, human

sacrifices are considered as necessary, particularly when they take such

men as have, by the laws of their country, forfeited their lives, and have

nothing to redeem them; and such will generally be found among the lower

class of people.

The man of whom I made these enquiries, as well as some others, took some

pains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not masters

enough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai,

that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his

account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of the

high priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires

alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out,

he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (the

high priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human

sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man

present, whom, most probably, the priest has an antipathy against. He is

immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, who,

no doubt (if necessary), has address enough to persuade the people that he

was a bad man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that

has been obtained of their religion, has been from information: And as

their language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to

the greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with

certainty.[3]

The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, is

expressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the

narrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as

simple as it is disgusting to an European. It is thus: Several people take

some of the root, and chew it till it is soft and pulpy, then they spit it

out into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when a

sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, according

as it is to be strong or weak; the juice, thus diluted, is strained through

some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking,

and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat,

and rather insipid. But, though it is intoxicating I only saw one instance

where it had that effect, as they generally drink it with great moderation,

and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths,

as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have

seen them eat it wholly.

At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite but

very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that do not

produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, as

appears by Le Mair's account of Horn Island, in which he speaks of the

natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned.

Great injustice has been done the women of Otaheite, and the Society isles,

by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant

the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is by

no means the case; the favours of married women, and also the unmarried of

the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as in any other

country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately of

the unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such

familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in other

countries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and such were those

who came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we had

on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different

turn, even of the first rank, one is at first inclined to think that they

are all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in the

price. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem,

in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude

her from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole,

a stranger who visits England might, with equal justice, draw the

characters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on board

the ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent-Garden

and Drury-Lane. I must however allow, that they are all completely versed

in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their

conversation. It is therefore no wonder that they have obtained the

character of libertines.

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of

my former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude of

Oaiti-piha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17° 43' 26" south, and the longitude 0°

21' 25" 1/2 east from Point Venus; or 149° 13' 24" west from Greenwich. The

difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaiti-

piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the

island in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles respectively. It is therefore

highly probable, that the whole island is of a greater extent than I, at

that time, estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory,

and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which they

found to be 17° 29' 13" south. This differs but two seconds from that which

Mr Green and I found; and its longitude, viz. 149° 34' 49" 1/2 west, for

any thing that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact.

Mr Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 863 per day,

which is only 0" 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its

error in longitude was trifling.

[1] "We heard that about the time mentioned by the natives, Don Juan

de Langara y Huarte, sent out from the port of Callao in Peru, had

visited Otaheite, but what the particulars of that voyage are, has

never transpired."--G.F.

[2] We anticipated such an opinion in a former volume, and cannot

refrain quoting the following observations in support of it.--"The

question, which has been agitated between the French and English

navigators, concerning the first introduction of this evil to

Otaheite, might be decided very favourably for them both, by supposing

the disease to have existed there previous to their arrival. The

argument, that some of Captain Wallis's people received the infection,

does not seem to controvert this supposition, but only proves, that

the women, who prostrated themselves to his men, were free from it;

which was, perhaps, owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be

apprehensive of exposing themselves to the anger of the strangers, by

conferring such a desperate gift upon them. M. de Bougainville, with

the politeness of a well-bred man, doubts whether the disease existed

at Otaheite previous to his arrival or not; the English seaman asserts

his opinion as facts in positive terms. We heard, however, of another

disease of a different nature, whilst we stayed upon the island; and

which they called _o-pay-no-Peppe_, (the sore of Peppe), adding that

it was brought by the ship which they designed by that name, and

which, according to different accounts, had either been two, three, or

four months before us at Otaheite. By the account of the symptoms, it

seemed to be a kind of leprosy. Nothing is more easy than to imagine,

how the strangers (Spaniards) who visited Otaheite in that ship, might

be erroneously charged with introducing that disease. In order to give

rise to a general error of this sort, it is sufficient that it broke

out nearly about the time of their arrival, and that some distant

connections between them and the persons affected could be traced.

This is the more probable, as it is certain, that there are several

sorts of leprous complaints existing among the inhabitants, such as

the elephantiasis, which resembles the yaws; also an eruption over the

whole skin, and, lastly, a monstrous rotting ulcer, of a most

loathsome appearance. However, all these very seldom occur, and

especially the last; for the excellence of their climate, and the

simplicity of their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled,

prevent not only these, but almost all dangerous and deadly

disorders."--G.F.

[3] The reader will be abundantly supplied with information respecting

the fact of human sacrifices being used at this island, when he comes

to the account of the third voyage performed by Cook.--E.

CHAPTER II.

FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO AND LEAVING

THEM THE SECOND TIME.

SECTION I.

_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of the

Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at

Middleburg._

After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west,

inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators,

and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam;

for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if I

found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay-to

every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and

22d the wind blew from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain,

having a large swell from S.S.E. and S., which kept up for several days,--

an indication that no land was near us in that direction.

On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the top-mast

head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S.W. by S. We

hauled up for it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or

three small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the low

isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues in

circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut

trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants; and had reason to think

there were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of

19° 18' S., longitude 158° 54' W., is not very different from that assigned

by Mr Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined,

I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of

the navy, one of the lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of

Bristol.

As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay

which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west;

and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuits, the fruit which had

served as a succedaneum being all consumed; but our stock of fresh pork

still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our

route to the west we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and a

small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we,

therefore, conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance.

As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass gradually

increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21° 26' S.,

longitude 170° 40' W., it was 10° 45' E.

At two o'clock p.m. on the 1st of October, we made the island of

Middleburg, bearing W.S.W.; at six o'clock it extended from S.W, by W. to

N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the

direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the south, in

order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at

eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing but

they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant

of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the next

morning, we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and

the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles

broad.[1]

After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of its

length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the

least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for

Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before

we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to

offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied

in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two or

three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without

hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these

islanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible.[2] After making a

few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms

water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The

highest land on the island bore S.E. by E.; the north point N.E. 1/2 E.,

and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island of Amsterdam extending from N.

by W. 1/2 W. to N.W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were

surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with

them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c.

Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemed

to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a

present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which

he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose

name was Tioony.[3]

Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony,

who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of

the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against

the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on

shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or

any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific

intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c.

to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to

land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who

could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, whole

bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for any

thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and

left, and make room for us to land.[4] He then conducted us up to his

house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the

head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The

situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at

anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of

the richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which

we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on

the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and

in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they

did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this

immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were

musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable.[5] After sitting

here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the

adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we

were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a

bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _Eava_ for us

to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as we

excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by

others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then

mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was

properly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves,

which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these

filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of

brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was,

however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook.

I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons

drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor.

This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area

before it on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruit

and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, and

whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air.

Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on

board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table but eat

nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary.

After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before; Mr

Forster with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen,

walked into the country.[6] Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted to

the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were

set before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we

eat much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour

to the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country.

Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations,

which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences

made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with

various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know

the most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in the

lanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very

large fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they

did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day,

offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning, which determined

me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam.

The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country,

and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with

each other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure.[7] The ships

were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, in

which the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the season

of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early the

nest morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went on shore with

Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to take leave of the chief. He met us at

the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house, had we not

excused ourselves. We therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent

about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the

chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment of

garden-seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he

seemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in

order to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he

called to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, and

returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange

fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to

himself; but, when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange.

[1] "There appeared to be some low land at the bottom of the hills,

which contained plantations of fine young bananas, whose vivid green

leaves contrasted admirably with the different tints of various

shrubberies, and with the brown colour of the cocoa-palms, which

seemed to be the effect of winter. The light was still so faint, that

we distinguished several fires glimmering in the bushes, but by

degrees we likewise discerned people running along the shore. The

hills which were low, and not so high above the level of the sea as

the Isle of Wight, were agreeably adorned with small clumps of trees

scattered at some distance, and the intermediate ground appeared

covered with herbage, like many parts of England."-G.F.

[2] "We threw a rope into one of these canoes which ran up close to

us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and presented a

root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the South Sea Islands, touched

our noses with his like the New Zealanders, in sign of friendship, and

then sat down on the deck without speaking a word. The captain

presented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his

own head, and pronounced _fagafetei_, which was probably an expression

of thanksgiving. He was naked to the waist, but from thence to the

knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which seemed to be

manufactured much like that of Otaheite, but was covered with a brown

colour, and a strong glue, which made it stiff, and fit to resist the

wet. His stature was middle-sized, and his lineaments were mild and

tolerably regular. His colour was much like that of the common

Otaheiteans, that is, of a clear mahogany or chesnut brown; his beard

was cut short or shaven, and his hair was black, in short, frizzled

curls, burnt as it were at the tops. He had three circular spots on

each arm, about the size of a crown-piece, consisting of several

concentric circles of elevated points, which answered to the punctures

of the Otaheiteans, but were blacker; besides these, he had other

black punctures on his body. A small cylinder was fixed through two

holes in the loop of his ear, and his left hand wanted the little

finger. He continued his silence for a considerable while, but some

others, who ventured on board soon after him, were of a more

communicative turn, and after having performed the ceremony of

touching noses, spoke a language which was unintelligible to us at

that time."--G.F.

[3] "They made a great deal of noise about us, every one shewing what

he had to sell, and calling to some one of us, who happened to look

towards them. Their language was not unpleasing, and whatever they

said, was in a singing kind of tone. Many were bold enough to come on

board, without expressing the least hesitation, and one of these

seemed to be a chief, or a man of some quality, and was accordingly

treated with a number of presents, which he severally laid on his

head, when he received them, saying _fagafetei_ every time. Our

English cloth and linen he admired most, and iron wares in the next

degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned; for he went down

into the cabin, and wherever we thought fit to conduct him."--G.F.

[4] "The cordial reception which we met with, was such as might have

been expected from a people well acquainted with our good intentions,

and accustomed to the transitory visits of European ships. But these

kind islanders had never seen Europeans among them, and could only

have heard of Tasman, who visited the adjacent island, by imperfect

tradition. Nothing was therefore more conspicuous in their whole

behaviour than an open, generous disposition, free from any mean

distrust. This was confirmed by the appearance of a great number of

women in the crowd, covered from the waist downwards, whose smiles and

looks welcomed us to the shore."--G.F.

[5] "They beat time to the music by snapping the second finger and

thumb, and holding the three remaining fingers upright. Their voices

were very sweet and mellow, and they sung in parts. When they had

gone, they were relieved by others, who sung the same tune, and at

last they joined together in chorus."--G.F.

[6] "The inhabitants seemed to be of a more active and industrious

disposition than those of Otaheite and instead of following us in

great crowds wherever we went, left us entirely by ourselves, unless

we entreated them to accompany us. In that case we could venture to go

with our pockets open, unless we had nails in them, upon which they

set so great a value, that they could not always resist the

temptation. We passed through more than ten adjacent plantations or

gardens, separated by inclosures, communicating with each other by

means of doors. In each of them we commonly met with a house, of which

the inhabitants were absent. Their attention to separate their

property seemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had

expected. Their arts, manufactures, and music, were all more

cultivated, complicated, and elegant, than at the Society Isles. But,

in return, the opulence, or rather luxury, of the Otaheiteans seemed

to be much greater. We saw but few hogs and fowls here; and that great

support of life, the bread-tree, appeared to be very scarce. Yams,

therefore, and other roots, together with bananoes, are their

principal article of diet. Their clothing, too, compared to that of

Otaheite, was less plentiful, or at least not converted into such an

article of luxury as at that island. Lastly, their houses, though

neatly constructed, and always placed in a fragrant shrubbery, were

less roomy and convenient."--G.F.

[7] "We were accosted with caresses by old and young, by men and

women. They hugged us very heartily, and frequently kissed our hands,

laying them on their breast, with the most expressive looks of

affection that can be imagined."--G.F.