Guilty. The accused pleads guilty, but throws himself upon the mercy of
the court. He humbly represents that his usual hour for getting up, in
the course of his travels, was three o'clock in the morning, and his
usual hour for going to bed, nine or ten the next night. That the places
in which he chiefly deviated from these rules of hardship, were Rome and
Venice; and that at those cities of fame he shut himself up in solitude,
and wrote Christmas papers for the incomparable publication known as
"Household Words." That his correspondence at all times, arising out of
the business of the said "Household Words" alone, was very heavy. That
his offence, though undoubtedly committed, was unavoidable, and that a
nominal punishment will meet the justice of the case.
We had only three bad days out of the whole time. After Naples, which
was very hot, we had very cold, clear, bright weather. When we got to
Chamounix, we found the greater part of the inns shut up and the people
gone. No visitors whatsoever, and plenty of snow. These were the very
best circumstances under which to see the place, and we stayed a couple
of days at the Hotel de Londres (hastily re-furbished for our
entertainment), and climbed through the snow to the Mer de Glace, and
thoroughly enjoyed it. Then we went, in mule procession (I walking) to
the old hotel at Martigny, where Collins was ill, and I suppose I bored
Egg to death by talking all the evening about the time when you and I
were there together. Naples (a place always painful to me, in the
intense degradation of the people) seems to have only three classes of
inhabitants left in it--priests, soldiers (standing army one hundred
thousand strong), and spies. Of macaroni we ate very considerable
quantities everywhere; also, for the benefit of Italy, we took our share
of every description of wine. At Naples I found Layard, the Nineveh
traveller, who is a friend of mine and an admirable fellow; so we
fraternised and went up Vesuvius together, and ate more macaroni and
drank more wine. At Rome, the day after our arrival, they were making a
saint at St. Peter's; on which occasion I was surprised to find what an
immense number of pounds of wax candles it takes to make the regular,
genuine article. From Turin to Paris, over the Mont Cenis, we made only
one journey. The Rhone, being frozen and foggy, was not to be navigated,
so we posted from Lyons to Chalons, and everybody else was doing the
like, and there were no horses to be got, and we were stranded at
midnight in amazing little cabarets, with nothing worth mentioning to
eat in them, except the iron stove, which was rusty, and the
billiard-table, which was musty. We left Turin on a Tuesday evening, and
arrived in Paris on a Friday evening; where I found my son Charley,
hot--or I should rather say cold--from Germany, with his arms and legs
so grown out of his coat and trousers, that I was ashamed of him, and
was reduced to the necessity of taking him, under cover of night, to a
ready-made establishment in the Palais Royal, where they put him into
balloon-waisted pantaloons, and increased my confusion. Leaving Calais
on the evening of Sunday, the 10th of December; fact of distinguished
author's being aboard, was telegraphed to Dover; thereupon authorities
of Dover Railway detained train to London for distinguished author's
arrival, rather to the exasperation of British public. D. A. arrived at
home between ten and eleven that night, thank God, and found all well
and happy.
I think you see _The Times_, and if so, you will have seen a very
graceful and good account of the Birmingham readings. It was the most
remarkable thing that England could produce, I think, in the way of a
vast intelligent assemblage; and the success was most wonderful and
prodigious--perfectly overwhelming and astounding altogether. They wound
up by giving my wife a piece of plate, having given me one before; and
when you come to dine here (may it be soon!) it shall be duly displayed
in the centre of the table.
Tell Mrs. Cerjat, to whom my love, and all our loves, that I have highly
excited them at home here by giving them an account in detail of all
your daughters; further, that the way in which Catherine and Georgina
have questioned me and cross-questioned me about you all,
notwithstanding, is maddening. Mrs. Watson has been obliged to pass her
Christmas at Brighton alone with her younger children, in consequence of
her two eldest boys coming home to Rockingham from school with the
whooping-cough. The quarantine expires to-day, however; and she drives
here, on her way back into Northamptonshire, to-morrow.
The sad affair of the Preston strike remains unsettled; and I hear, on
strong authority, that if that were settled, the Manchester people are
prepared to strike next. Provisions very dear, but the people very
temperate and quiet in general. So ends this jumble, which looks like
the index to a chapter in a book, I find, when I read it over.
Ever, my dear Cerjat, heartily your Friend.
[Sidenote: Mr. Arthur Ryland.]