MY DEAR WILLS,

I sent you by post from Rome, on Wednesday last, a little story for the

Christmas number, called "The Schoolboy's Story." I have an idea of

another short one, to be called "Nobody's Story," which I hope to be

able to do at Venice, and to send you straight home before this month is

out. I trust you have received the first safely.

Edward continues to do extremely well. He is always, early and late,

what you have seen him. He is a very steady fellow, a little too bashful

for a courier even; settles prices of everything now, as soon as we come

into an hotel; and improves fast. His knowledge of Italian is painfully

defective, and, in the midst of a howling crowd at a post-house or

railway station, this deficiency perfectly stuns him. I was obliged last

night to get out of the carriage, and pluck him from a crowd of porters

who were putting our baggage into wrong conveyances--by cursing and

ordering about in all directions. I should think about ten substantives,

the names of ten common objects, form his whole Italian stock. It

matters very little at the hotels, where a great deal of French is

spoken now; but, on the road, if none of his party knew Italian, it

would be a very serious inconvenience indeed.

Will you write to Ryland if you have not heard from him, and ask him

what the Birmingham reading-nights are really to be? For it is

ridiculous enough that I positively don't know. Can't a Saturday Night

in a Truck District, or a Sunday Morning among the Ironworkers (a fine

subject) be knocked out in the course of the same visit?

If you should see any managing man you know in the Oriental and

Peninsular Company, I wish you would very gravely mention to him from me

that if they are not careful what they are about with their steamship

_Valetta_, between Marseilles and Naples, they will suddenly find that

they will receive a blow one fine day in _The Times_, which it will be

a very hard matter for them ever to recover. When I sailed in her from

Genoa, there had been taken on board, _with no caution in most cases

from the agent, or hint of discomfort_, at least forty people of both

sexes for whom there was no room whatever. I am a pretty old traveller

as you know, but I never saw anything like the manner in which pretty

women were compelled to lie among the men in the great cabin and on the

bare decks. The good humour was beyond all praise, but the natural

indignation very great; and I was repeatedly urged to stand up for the

public in "Household Words," and to write a plain description of the

facts to _The Times_. If I had done either, and merely mentioned that

all these people paid heavy first-class fares, I will answer for it that

they would have been beaten off the station in a couple of months. I did

neither, because I was the best of friends with the captain and all the

officers, and never saw such a fine set of men; so admirable in the

discharge of their duty, and so zealous to do their best by everybody.

It is impossible to praise them too highly. But there is a strong desire

at all the ports along the coast to throw impediments in the way of the

English service, and to favour the French and Italian boats. In those

boats (which I know very well) great care is taken of the passengers,

and the accommodation is very good. If the Peninsula and Oriental add to

all this the risk of such an exposure as they are _certain_ to get (if

they go on so) in _The Times_, they are dead sure to get a blow from the

public which will make them stagger again. I say nothing of the number

of the passengers and the room in the ship's boats, though the frightful

consideration the contrast presented must have been in more minds than

mine. I speak only of the taking people for whom there is no sort of

accommodation as the most decided swindle, and the coolest, I ever did

with my eyes behold.

Kindest regards from fellow-travellers.

Ever, my dear Wills, faithfully yours.

[Sidenote: Miss Hogarth.]

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