“improved” by Brown, of whose skill in landscape gardening they present
a fair example; of which one of the most noticeable features is a large
artificial lake, formed by confining within the grounds what was
formerly an inconsiderable stream, but which is now considered one of
the most beautiful and extensive pieces of water in the west of England.
Sherborne contains several interesting remains, of which we have given
two,--the Abbey
[Illustration]
House (introduced above) and an old mansion in St. Swithin’s Street; the
latter conspicuous for a beautiful oriel window. The whole neighbourhood
is, indeed, rich in antiquities, of a rare and curious order; not the
less valuable because of their association with the romantic history of
one of the most remarkable men of a remarkable age; in particular we may
make reference to an ancient dwelling, now a country inn, which supplies
abundant evidence of former state and splendour; although now applied to
“base uses” of which its founders must have had little apprehension.
[Illustration:
J.D. Harding, Delᵗ. on Stone by W. Walton. M & N. Hanhart, Lithog{rs}.
AUDLEY END, ESSEX.]
AUDLEY END,
ESSEX.
[Illustration: A]UDLEY END, the most celebrated of the mansions in
Essex, takes its name from Sir Thomas Audley, Chancellor to King Henry
VIII., to whom the Abbey of Walden and most of the lands at the west end
of the parish had been granted at the Dissolution by Henry VIII.; and
who is believed to have fixed his residence there, although, as Lord
Braybrooke remarks in his history of this house, “the fact cannot now be
established. Horace Walpole, notwithstanding, and, after him, Mr. Gough,
assumed that Audley Inn was the original designation; but for this
assertion no authority whatever is adduced: not to mention that many of
the neighbouring hamlets are still distinguished by the names of North
End, Sewer’s End, Sparrow’s End, &c.; and that similar instances
frequently occur in different parts of the County of Essex.”
The manor of Walden having been originally granted to the celebrated
follower of William the Conqueror, Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl of
Essex, after many mutations, again reverted to the crown, and so
remained till May 1538; when it was granted by Henry VIII., with the
recently dissolved Abbey of Walden, and the greatest part of the
advowsons and estates belonging to that foundation, to Sir Thomas
Audley, from whom are descended the Earls of Suffolk, Berkshire, and
Carlisle, the Earls and present Marquis of Bristol, and the Lords Howard
de Walden; besides the Earls of Binden and Lords Howard of Escrick,
whose titles are extinct.
Sir Thomas Audley, a clever and crafty man, was the principal instrument
in the hands of the king in effecting the dissolution of the religious
houses; by which he also greatly enriched himself, for the rapacity of
Henry never exceeded that of Sir Thomas, who was all his life employed
in asking for grants and emoluments, under the plea of ill-paid services
or absolute poverty--an excuse as disgusting as it was untrue; and
nothing can exceed the fawning perseverance of his begging-letters, as
printed by Lord Braybrooke in his “History of Audley End,” or the
meanness of soul that runs throughout them, and which his lordship, with
right feeling, does not do otherwise than unequivocally condemn. The
first step in the king’s favour made by Sir Thomas (after he was, at the
recommendation of the Duke of Suffolk, to whom he was steward or
chancellor, introduced to Henry) was occasioned by his conduct as
Speaker of the Long, or Black Parliament, to which office the king had
caused him to be elected, which first sat in November 1529, and
continuing, by prorogation, six years, effected the dissolution of all
the religious houses whose revenues did not annually exceed 200_l._
“To enable us justly to appreciate the importance of this measure,
it must not be forgotten that by this one act three hundred and
seventy-six monasteries were simultaneously suppressed, and their
revenues, of the yearly value of 32,000_l._, placed at the king’s
disposal, together with their personal property, amounting to
100,000_l._; and so absolute was the monarch’s authority, and so
abject the servility of his Parliament, under the guidance of their
Speaker, that no opposition was offered to the bill during its
progress through the House of Commons. We may easily imagine that
Henry was not a little pleased with these proceedings; and Audley’s
services became so necessary to him that he was, in the ensuing
year, constituted Attorney-General for the duchy of Lancaster, and,
in November following, made King’s Sergeant; and so rapid was his
promotion, that, on the 20th of May, 1532, we find him, upon the
resignation of Sir Thomas More, knighted, and appointed Keeper of
the Great Seal; and, in January 26, 1532-3, Lord Chancellor. In the
exercise of his new functions Audley proved as subservient to the
wishes of his royal master as he had shewn himself upon all former
occasions; and having, while Speaker, gratified the king, as well
as the people, by passing six bills to restrain the power of the
clergy, and greatly forwarded the measure of dissolving the lesser
religious establishments, he now undertook the arduous task of
obtaining the surrender of the more wealthy foundations; and in
this enterprise his endeavours were shortly crowned with complete
success; and, before the expiration of two years, the king found
himself in possession of all the remaining monastic establishments,
producing, with those already dissolved, an annual income,
according to Hume, of 142,914_l._”[19]
Henry thus acquired ample funds for the remuneration of those ministers
and favourites who had been the instruments of his tyranny, and who had
ensured the consummation of his grand designs; amongst these Audley, as
the principal actor, was not forgotten, and he revelled in the church
spoliation he had ensured his master. The rich priory of Christ Church,
Aldgate, with all the church plate and lands belonging to that house,
was first granted him; and afterwards many portions of the estates
previously belonging to the lesser religious houses of Essex, with
licenses to alienate them, of which he duly availed himself. Thus St.
Botolph’s priory at Colchester, with all its revenues, the priory of the
Crouched Friars in the same town, and Tiltey Abbey, near Thaxted, were
added to the list of his monastic spoils, after the gifts from the king
in 1538, on Sir Thomas’s application, of the rich abbey of Walden, with
all the estates, manors, and advowsons thereunto attached. He was also
created Lord Audley of Walden, and installed a Knight of the Garter.
“Yet,” says Lord Braybrooke, “instead of Audley’s being contented with
these repeated marks of the royal favour, we are compelled to admit that
every grant which he obtained encouraged him to importune the king for
further recompense; and his letters, preserved in the Cottonian library,
prove that, in making these applications, he was mean enough to plead
poverty as an excuse, and even to assert that his character had suffered
in consequence of the public services which he had been obliged to
perform.” With a watchfulness for every advantage which might accrue to
him, and a continued solicitation for gifts, he continued to enjoy the
king’s confidence till his death, in 1544. He is buried in the church of
Saffron Walden, where a plain altar-tomb of black marble perpetuates his
memory.
Sir Thomas Audley left two daughters, and the youngest, dying in 1546,
left the eldest (Margaret) sole heiress. She married Lord Henry Dudley
at the early age of fourteen; he was arraigned for high treason in 1533,
and, pleading guilty, was ordered for death; but Mary pardoned him, and
restored his property. He was killed at the battle of St. Quintin’s, in
Picardy, in 1557, and his widow, in the same year, married Thomas, the
fourth Duke of Norfolk, dying herself at the early age of twenty-three.
The Howards thus became possessed of Audley End; but the duke’s
ill-judged project of forming a matrimonial alliance with Mary Queen of
Scots, under the impression that, if they both survived Elizabeth, he
should eventually become king-consort of England, was a scheme which
cost him his life; he was beheaded for high-treason on Tower Hill, June
2, 1572--a sentence which he bore with exemplary fortitude.
His son, Lord Thomas Howard, was the builder of Audley End. He was
restored in blood by act of Parliament in 1583, and, when very young,
embraced the military service, but abandoned it for success at court,
where he sought every opportunity of ingratiating himself with the
queen, and succeeded, in a great measure, in obtaining her countenance.
During the next reign, almost the whole of his life was passed at court;
and although the high and lucrative offices which he held afforded him
more ample means of displaying his magnificence than those enjoyed by
his ancestors, he contrived to eclipse them all in extravagance; and we
are assured that in the building of Audley End alone he expended a no
less sum than 190,000_l._ He was much honoured by King James I., and was
advanced by him to the Earldom of Suffolk, and made Lord Chamberlain,
and afterwards Lord High Treasurer of England. Lady Suffolk was,
unfortunately, a woman of a covetous mind, and having too great an
ascendancy over her husband, used it in making him a party to her
extortions on persons who had business to transact at the Treasury, or
places to obtain at court; and her husband was charged with
embezzlement, deprived of his office, and fined 30,000_l._, but which
was reduced by the king to 7000_l._ He was generally considered to have
been chiefly guilty only in concealing the mal-practices of his wife,
who eventually died in debt and difficulty.
From this period the history of the possessors of Audley End is a mere
confused piece of family biography, of little interest to the general
reader: they seem never to have recovered the charges entailed upon them
by the building of Audley End, and constant curtailments of the house
and park were made by each succeeding owner up to the partition of the
estates in 1747. The cost of the original building appears to have
involved Lord Suffolk greatly, for we learn from one of his letters,
printed in the “Cabala,” that, at the period of his committal to the
Tower, he was in debt nearly 40,000_l._, though he had then recently
sold the Charter House to Mr. Sutton for 13,000_l._, and disposed of his
property at Aynhoe in Northamptonshire; and he died possessed of
Lulworth and Framlingham Castle, and Charlton in Wiltshire, with the
estates belonging to them, as well as Suffolk House in the Strand,
besides the large Essex property derived through his mother, Margaret
Audley. At all events the cost of the building must have been very
serious, nor did the charge of maintaining it prove less formidable; so
much so, in fact, that none of the possessors of Audley End, after the
death of the first Earl of Suffolk, were enabled to keep an
establishment suitable to the size and magnificence of the house. Earl
Theophilus and his son James, the third earl, seem, indeed, to have
resided there; but the latter, of whom it is not recorded that he took
any active part during the Commonwealth, lived in retirement, and, after
the Restoration, gladly availed himself of the opportunity of alienating
the house and park to Charles II., and thus dispose of a possession
which, from his being unable to enjoy it, could only be considered as a
source of mortification.
At this period the house was of regal magnificence, and consisted,
besides the offices, of various ranges of building, surrounding two
spacious quadrangular courts; that to the westward was the largest, and
was approached over a bridge across the lake, through a double avenue of
limes, terminating with a double-entrance gateway, flanked by four
circular towers. The apartments on the north and south sides of the
principal court were erected over an open cloister, and supported by
pillars of alabaster; while, on the eastern side, a flight of steps led
to the entrance-porches, placed on a terrace running parallel to the
great hall, which formed the centre of the building, and which is now
the principal front of the mansion, despoiled as it at present is of its
grand entrance-court. Beyond the hall was the inner court, surrounded by
an arcade, over which were the principal apartments, the three sides of
which only remain, while the chapel beyond has been entirely demolished.
It will thus be seen that the present house is but a wreck of the
original building.[20]
Of the original architect, Lord Braybrooke thus writes: “According to
Horace Walpole, Bernard Jansen was the architect employed; but after
hazarding this assertion he contrives to establish a stronger claim in
behalf of John Thorpe, who built many of the houses of the nobility
about that period, and whose partiality for what Walpole terms barbarous
[Illustration]
ornaments and balustrades he especially notices; adding, that some of
his vast bow-windows advanced outwards in a sharp angle, and thus
actually describing a portion of the principal court at Audley End long
since demolished,” but represented in our woodcut from Winstanley’s view
of the original house, where one occurs at each side of the principal
entrance.
Thorpe’s claim to the erection of Audley End has been further confirmed
by the discovery of the ground-plan of the house, corresponding to that
engraved by Winstanley, existing among the curious volume of original
plans and drawings made by John Thorpe himself, formerly preserved at
Warwick Castle, and afterwards in the possession of Sir John Soane. Upon
this plan a variety of pencilled alterations might be traced. “And there
appeared,” says Lord Braybrooke, “so strong a family likeness (if such
an expression may be used) in the different elevations throughout the
volume, that no doubt could be reasonably entertained as to their all
being the work of the same individual. The house has always been
supposed to have been commenced in 1603, and to have occupied thirteen
years before it was entirely finished; and the date of 1616 still
remains upon one of the gateways.”
In 1666 the house was sold to Charles II. (who liked it as well for its
regal magnificence as for its convenience to Newmarket) for the sum of
50,000_l._ a portion being paid, and 20,000_l._ being left on mortgage.
In 1670 the court was regularly established there, and the queen very
frequently resided in the house. “Lord Suffolk and his successor, the
fourth earl, seem to have resided at Chesterfield Park after the sale of
Audley End, which was committed to the charge of one of the family, who
held the office of housekeeper and keeper of the wardrobe, with a
salary; and this arrangement continued till 1701, when the house and
park were reconveyed to Henry the fifth Earl of Suffolk, upon condition
of his relinquishing all claim to the 20,000_l._ which had remained on
mortgage from the year 1668; nor is it clear that any interest had been
ever paid upon it.”
The work of demolition commenced in 1721, when the three sides of the
grand quadrangle, which formed so magnificent an entrance to the house,
were demolished by the advice of Sir John Vanburgh, with the kitchen and
offices, which occupied a considerable space behind the north wing of
the building; and the chapel and cellars, which projected at each
extremity of the gallery wing, were probably soon afterwards removed,
leaving the inner court only untouched; the entire building being then
in the form of an open square. In 1747, Lord Effingham, who succeeded
the Earl of Suffolk, sold the house and park to Elizabeth countess of
Portsmouth for 10,000_l._, which sum included the timber, 500 head of
deer, a water-mill, and the right of presentation to the Mastership of
Magdalen College, Cambridge. There was a debate at this time about
pulling the house entirely down and selling the materials, and for which
a valuation was actually made; or else, for converting the buildings
into a silk-manufactory, for which the spacious premises and mill near
the stables seemed well adapted. At this time the house was rapidly
going to decay, the windows were without glass in many places, the
furniture taken away, the cupola in the centre in danger of falling from
every high wind, and the eastern wing with its noble gallery so unsafe
that Lady Portsmouth levelled it to the ground in 1749. This splendid
gallery occupied the whole of the first floor of the demolished wing,
and measured 24 feet in height, 226 feet in length, and 32 feet in
width, exclusive of the bow in the centre, which was sufficiently
spacious to contain a full-sized billiard-table. The whole room was
fitted up with wainscot, in which a profusion of ornamental carving was
introduced. The Labours of Hercules were represented in oak upon the
chimney-piece; and upon the stuccoed ceiling, the Loves of the Gods.
The Countess of Portsmouth at her death bequeathed her possessions, in
default of issue, to John Griffin Whitwell, eldest son of her sister
Anne, afterwards confirmed Lord Howard de Walden and Baron Braybrooke of
Braybrooke, in the county of Northampton. This nobleman, at great
expense, restored the dilapidated house at Audley End; and continued his
repairs and renovations until he had succeeded in making this noble
relic again habitable.
The present aspect of the house, as seen from the main road to Newmarket
and
[Illustration]
Cambridge, is depicted in our plate. Upon crossing the modern bridge
which leads to the town of Saffron Walden, a gate to the left leads up
to the house. It is the gate already noticed as bearing the date of
1616, and is here engraved. The way in which the noble trees hang their
branches in the richest profusion over it renders it a most picturesque
object; it is surmounted by a lion standing on a cap of maintenance,
beneath which is inscribed:--
JOAN. B. II. DE WALD. REST. ET. ORN. M.DCC.LXXXVI.
A semicircular walk leads to the mansion. The doors, both back and
front, of the principal entrance, are exceedingly fine specimens of
wood-carving. They are extremely massive, and carved in a geometric
pattern; the circular portion above being filled in the front door
[Illustration]
with figures emblematic of the arts of Peace, that of the back leading
into the garden, representing War in a chariot drawn by wolves. We have
engraved this beautiful door. It originally led into the inner court; it
now leads to the arcade facing the garden, which is believed to have
been the site of the ancient monastery, as many stone coffins have been
discovered there.
Entering a small vestibule the great hall lies to the right; it is
ninety feet in length, twenty-seven feet wide, and twenty-nine feet
high; it is too square to be considered in good proportion, a fault
found by all since its first erection. Its principal feature is the
magnificent oak screen, which occupies the entire north end. It is most
elaborately carved and ornamented with a great variety of grotesque
figures executed in bold relief, and is said to have been originally
procured from Italy; but of this there may be entertained considerable
doubt, as it is precisely similar in its details to many others which
still exist and are of English workmanship. The fireplace is of similar
design, and our initial letter exhibits one of its many beautiful
compartments. The hall is wainscoted, and is lighted by five windows,
that in the centre having a large projecting bow, extending from the
cornice to the floor which is paved. It is hung with family pictures,
among which those of the Cornwallis predominate--the ancestors of the
present Lady Braybrooke. The ceiling is of plaster, divided into forty
square compartments, formed by the massive oaken beams supported by
richly-carved brackets. These compartments are filled with the crests
and cognizances of the Howard family, worked in raised stucco and
encircled by a border. A gay effect is produced by the many silken
banners which hang from the walls.
Opposite the fine old wooden screen is an open one of stone, for which,
says Lord Braybrooke, “we are indebted to the bad taste of Sir John
Vanburgh, who removed the south wall to enlarge the hall, which had been
censured by Evelyn and others as too small in proportion to the rest of
the house, and being desirous at the same time to obtain sufficient
space for a double flight of stairs leading to the saloon”--the subject
of our second plate; it is in every sense a magnificent room, and is
sixty feet in length, twenty-seven feet three inches wide, and twenty
feet eight inches high. The description of the noble owner must be here
quoted: “It was originally called the Fish-room, after the dolphins and
sea monsters represented in bold relief upon the ceiling, which is of
stucco, and divided into thirty-two compartments with raised borders.
From each angle of these compartments hang pendants of considerable
dimensions elaborately wrought, and producing a striking and singular
effect. The fittings of the wall are of wood-work, painted in white and
gold, and carved up twelve feet from the ground; the cornice and frieze,
being supported by pilasters placed at equal distances, the spaces
between which are allotted to portraits, in whole-length, of the
different persons connected with the history of Audley End, let into
arches serving as frames, and the spandrils of which are filled with
rich foliage. Upon the wall above the cornice, which has a bold
projection, are quatre-feuilles, worked in stucco, probably added after
the room was finished, and not in character with the ceiling. The frieze
is deep, and decorated with lions’ heads and a variety of other
patterns, carved in wood. The pilasters are also surmounted by grotesque
heads. The large western bow, to which we ascend by three steps,
commands a
[Illustration]
fine view of the grounds, the river Cam, and the ancient stables beyond,
here engraved; they are of red brick and are exceedingly picturesque,
embowered as they are in antique trees. The chimney-piece is completely
in keeping with the rest of the apartment, and, though not dissimilar to
those already described, greatly surpasses them in the beauty of the
carved work and the brilliancy of the gilding. In the centre are
emblazoned the arms of Thomas Earl of Suffolk, impaling Knivett and his
quarterings, and encircled by the Garter. The female figures and ancient
heads on each side, as well as the arms and crests of Lord Howard de
Walden and his two wives, were painted by Rebecca.”
[Illustration]
The suite of rooms in connexion with the saloon are fine and contain
some good ceilings and fireplaces. In one of them is preserved the
interesting relic here engraved. Its history is thus told on a brass
plate inserted in the back:--“This chair, once the property of Alexander
Pope, was given as a keepsake to the nurse who attended him in his
illness; from her descendants it was obtained by the Rev. Thomas Ashley,
curate of the parish of Binfield, and kindly presented by him to Lord
Braybrooke in 1844, nearly a century after the poet’s decease.” It is
apparently of Flemish workmanship, and of rather singular design; in the
central medallion is a figure of Venus, holding a dart in her right
hand, and a burning heart in her left. The narrow back and wide-circling
arms give a peculiarly quaint appearance to this curious relic of one of
our greatest poets.
The upper and lower floor of this wing are connected together by a fine
oak staircase,
[Illustration]