The Spaniard replied: "Yes, sir."

"In that case," said the King, "we will go on."

But he made a conquest for all eternity of the heart of France, of the

_bourgeoisie,_ and of the people, by the finest phrase that prince ever

pronounced,--a real inspiration of genius, full of depth, heartiness,

sharpness, and good sense.

"If God prolongs my life, I hope to see in my kingdom no peasant so

poor, that he cannot put a fowl in the pot for his Sunday's dinner."

It is with words such as these, that enthusiastic and foolish crowds

are flattered and governed. By a couple of clever sayings, Henry IV.

has drawn his own portrait for posterity. One cannot pronounce his

name, without at once having a vision of the white plumes, and of the

delicious flavour of a _poule-au-pot._

Louis XIII. made no happy hits. This dull King had a dull reign.

Louis XIV. created the formula of absolute personal power: "The State

is myself."

He gave the measure of royal pride in its fullest expansion: "I have

almost had to wait."

He set the example of sonorous political phrases, which make alliances

between two nations: "The Pyrenees exist no longer!"

All his reign is in these few phrases.

Louis XV., most corrupt of Kings, elegant and witty, has bequeathed to

posterity that delightful keynote of his supreme indifference: "After

me, the deluge."

If Louis XVI. had been inspired enough to perpetrate one witticism, he

might possibly have saved his kingdom. With one _bon mot,_ might he not

perhaps have escaped the guillotine?

Napoleon I. scattered around him by handfuls, the sayings that were

suited to the hearts of his soldiers.

Napoleon III. extinguished with one brief phrase, all the future

indignation of the French nation in that first promise: "The Empire is

peace." The Empire is peace! superb declaration, magnificent lie! After

having said that, he might declare war against the whole of Europe,

without having anything to fear from his people. He had found a simple,

neat, and striking formula, capable of appealing to all minds, and

against which facts would be no argument.

He made war against China, Mexico, Russia, Austria, against all the

world. What did it matter? There are people yet, who speak with sincere

conviction of the eighteen years of tranquillity he gave to France:

"The Empire is peace."

And it was also with his keen words of satire, phrases more mortal than

bullets, that M. Rochefort laid the Empire low, riddling it with the

arrows of his wit, cutting it to shreds and tatters.

The Maréchal MacMahon himself has left as a souvenir of his career to

power: "Here I am, here I remain!" And it was by a shaft from Gambetta

that he was, in his turn, knocked down: "Submission or dismissal."

With these two words, more powerful than a revolution, more formidable

than the barricades, more invincible than an army, more redoubtable

than all the votes, the tribune turned out the soldier, crushed his

glory, and destroyed his power and prestige.

As to those who govern France at this moment, they must fall, for they

are devoid of wit; they will fall, for in the day of danger, in the day

of disturbance, in the inevitable moment of see-saw, they will not be

capable of making France laugh, and of disarming her.

Of all these historical phrases, there are not ten really authentic.

But what does it matter, so long as they are believed to have been

uttered by those to whom they are attributed:

"Dans le pays des bossus

Il faut l'être

Ou le paraître,"[2]

says the popular song.

Meanwhile the commercial travellers were talking of the emancipation of

women, of their rights, and of the new position in society they longed

for.

Some approved, others were annoyed; the little fat man jested without

ceasing, and ended the breakfast, as well as the discussion, by the

following entertaining anecdote:

"Lately," said he, "there was a great meeting in England, where this

question was discussed. One of the orators had been setting forth

numerous arguments in favour of the women's case, and wound up with

this observation:

"To conclude, gentlemen, I may observe that the difference between man

and woman is after all, very small."

A powerful voice, from an enthusiastic and thoroughly convinced

listener, arose from the audience, crying: "Hurrah for the small

difference!"

[1] Buoy of the oily scuttle-fish!

[2]

In the country of hunchbacks

One must be so,

Or at least appear so.

SAINT-TROPEZ, _April 13th_.

As it was remarkably fine this morning, I started for the _Chartreuse

de la Verne._

Two recollections draw me towards this ruin: that of the sensation of

infinite solitude and the unforgettable melancholy of the deserted

cloister; and also that of an old peasant couple, to whose cottage I

had been taken the year before by a friend who was guiding me across

this country of the Moors.

[Illustration 051]

Seated in a country cart, for the road soon became impracticable for

a vehicle on springs, I followed the line of the bay to its deepest

point. I could see upon the opposite shore the pine woods where the

_Company_ is attempting to create another winter resort. The shore

indeed is exquisite, and the whole country magnificent. Then the

road plunges into the mountains, and soon passes through the town of

Cogolin. A little further on, I quitted it for a rough broken lane,

which was scarcely more than a long rut. A river, or rather a big

stream, runs by the side, and every hundred yards or so, cuts through

the ravine, floods it, wanders away a little, returns, loses itself

again, quits its bed and drowns the track, then falls into a ditch,

strays through a field of stones, appears suddenly to calm down

into wisdom, and for a while follows its due course; but seized all

at once by some wild fancy, it precipitates itself again into the

road, and changes it into a marsh, in which the horse sinks up to the

breast-plate, and the high vehicle up to the driving seat.

There are no more houses; only from time to time, a charcoal burner's

hut; the poorest live in absolute holes. Is it not almost incredible

that men should inhabit holes in the ground, where they live all the

year, cutting wood and burning it to extract the charcoal, eating bread

and onions, drinking water, and sleeping like rabbits in their burrows,

in narrow caverns hewn in the granite rocks. Lately, too, in the midst

of these unexplored valleys, a hermit has been discovered, a real

hermit, hidden there for these thirty years, unknown to anyone, even to

the forest rangers.

The existence of this wild man, revealed by I know not whom, was, no

doubt, mentioned to the driver of the diligence, who spoke of it

to the post-master, who talked of it to the telegraph clerk male or

female, who flew with the wonder to the editor of some little local

paper, who made out of it a sensational paragraph, copied into all the

country journals of Provence.

The police set to work, to hunt out the hermit, without apparently

causing him any alarm, whence we may conclude that he had kept all

needful papers by him. But a photographer, excited by the news, set

off in his turn, wandered three days and three nights amongst the

mountains, and ended by photographing some one, the real hermit some

say, an impostor, others will tell you.

Last year then, the friend who first revealed to me this strangely

quaint country, showed me two creatures infinitely more curious, than

the poor devil who had come to hide in these impenetrable woods, a

grief, a remorse, an incurable despair, or perhaps simply the mere

ennui of living.

This is how he first discovered them. Wandering on horseback among

these valleys, he suddenly came across a prosperous farm: vines,

fields, and a farmhouse, which looked comfortable though humble.

He entered. He was received by a woman, a peasant, about seventy years

old. The husband, seated under a tree, rose and came forward to bow.

"He is deaf," she said.

He was a fine old fellow of eighty, amazingly strong, upright, and

handsome. They had for servants, a labourer and a farm-girl. My friend,

a little surprised to meet these singular persons in the midst of a

desert, enquired about them. They had been there for a long time; they

were much respected, and passed for being comfortably off, that is, for

peasants.

He came back several times to visit them, and little by little became

the confidant of the wife. He brought her papers and books, being

surprised to find that she had some ideas, or rather remains of ideas,

which scarcely seemed those of her class. She was, however, neither

well read, intelligent nor witty, but there seemed to be, in the depths

of her memory, traces of forgotten thoughts, a slumbering recollection

of a bye-gone education. One day, she asked him his name:

"I am the Count de X...," he said. Moved by the obscure vanity which is

lodged deep in all souls, she replied:

"I too am noble."

Then she went on, speaking for certainly the first time in her life, of

this piece of ancient history, unknown to anyone.

"I am the daughter of a colonel. My husband was a non-commissioned

officer in my father's regiment. I fell in love with him, and we ran

away together.

"And you came here?"

"Yes, we hid ourselves."

"And you have never seen your family since?"

"Oh no! don't you see my husband was a deserter."

"You have never written to anyone?"

"Oh no!"

"And you have never heard anyone speak of your family, of your father,

or mother?"

"Oh no, mama was dead."

This woman had preserved a certain childishness, the simplicity of

those who throw themselves into love, as if over a precipice.

He asked again:

"You have never told this to anyone?"

She answered: "Oh no! I can say it now, because Maurice is deaf. As

long as, he could hear, I should not have dared to mention it. Besides,

I have never seen anyone but the peasants since I ran away."

"At least, then, you have been happy?"

"Oh yes; very happy. I have been very happy. I have never regretted

anything."

Well, I also had gone last year to visit this woman, this couple, as

one goes to gaze at some miraculous relic.

I had contemplated with surprise, sadness, and even a little disgust,

this woman who had followed this man, this rustic Adonis, attracted

by his hussar uniform, and who had continued to see him under his

peasant's rags, with the blue dolman slung over his back, sword at his

side, and the high boot with clanking spur.

She had, however, become a peasant herself. In the depths of this

wilderness, she had become perfectly accustomed to this life without

luxuries, without charm, or delicacy of any sort, she had adapted

herself to these simple manners. And she loved him still. She had

become a woman of the people, in cap and coarse petticoat. Seated on

a straw-bottomed chair at a wooden table, she eat a mess of cabbage,

potatoes and bacon from an earthenware plate. She slept on a straw

mattress beside him.

She had never thought of anything but him! She had regretted neither

ornaments, nor silks, nor elegance, nor soft chairs, nor the perfumed

warmth of well-curtained rooms, nor repose in a comfortable bed. She

had never needed anything but him! As long as he was there, she had

wanted nothing else!

She was quite young when she abandoned life, the world, and those who

had brought her up and loved her. Alone with him she had come to this

savage ravine. And he had been everything to her, everything that could

be longed for, dreamt of, expected, ceaselessly hoped for. He had

filled her life with happiness from one end to another. She could not

have been happier.

Now I was going for the second time to see her again, filled with the

surprise, and the vague contempt, with which she inspired me.

[Illustration 052]

She lived near the Hyères road, on the opposite slope of the mountain

on which stands the _Chartreuse de la Verne;_ and another carriage was

awaiting me on this road, for the deep track we had followed, had now

ceased and become a mere footpath, only accessible to pedestrians and

mules.

I started therefore alone, on foot, and with slow steps to climb the

mountains. I was in a delightful wood, a real Corsican thicket, a fairy

tale wood composed of flowering creepers, aromatic plants with powerful

scents, and huge magnificent trees.

[Illustration 053]

The granite fragments in the track sparkled as they rolled beneath my

steps, and in the openings between the branches, I saw sudden peeps

of wide gloomy valleys full of verdure, winding lengthily away to the

distance.

[Illustration 054]

I was warm, the quick blood flowed within my flesh, I felt it coursing

through my veins, burning, rapid, alert, rhythmical and alluring as a

song; the vast song brutish and gay, of life in movement under the

sun. I was happy, I was strong, I quickened my pace, climbed the rocks,

ran, jumped, and discovered every minute a larger view, a more gigantic

network of desert valleys, from whence not one single chimney sent up a

wreath of smoke.

Then I reached the top, dominated by other heights, and after making

some circuit, perceived on the slope of the mountain before me, a

bleak ruin, a heap of dark stones, and of ancient buildings supported

by lofty arcades. To reach it, it was necessary to go round a large

ravine, and to cross a chestnut grove. The trees, old as the abbey

itself, enormous, mutilated and dying, had survived the building. Some

have fallen, no longer able to sustain the weight of years; others,

beheaded, have now only a hollow trunk in which ten men could conceal

themselves. And they look like a formidable army of giants, who in

spite of age and thunderbolts are ready still to attempt the assault

of the skies. In this fantastic wood one feels the mouldy touch of

centuries, the old, old life of the rotting roots, amidst which, at the

feet of these colossal stumps, nothing can grow. For amongst the grey

trunks the ground is of hard stones and a blade of grass is rare.

Here are two fenced springs, or fountains, kept as drinking places for

the cows.

I approach the abbey, and find myself face to face with the old

buildings, the most ancient of which date back to the 12th century,

while the more recent are inhabited by a family of shepherds.

In the first court, one sees by the traces of animals, that a remnant

of life still haunts the spot; then after traversing crumbling and

tumbling halls, like those of all ruins, one reaches the cloister, a

long and low walk still under cover, surrounding a tangled square of

brambles and tall grasses. In no spot in the world, have I felt such

a weight of melancholy press upon my heart, as in this ancient and

sinister cloister, true pacing court of monks. Certainly, the form of

the arcades and the proportions of the place contribute to my emotion,

to my heartache, and sadden my soul by their action on my eyes, exactly

as the happy curve of some cheering bit of architecture would rejoice

them. The man who built this retreat must have been possessed with a

despairing heart, to have an inspiration so desolate and dreary. One

would fain weep and groan within these walls, one longs to suffer, to

reopen all the wounds of one's heart, to enlarge and make the very

utmost of all the sorrows compressed within it.

I climbed upon a breach in the wall to see the view outside, and I

understood my emotion. Nothing living around, nothing anywhere but

death. Behind the abbey, a mountain ascending up to the sky, around

the ruins the chestnut grove, in front a valley, and beyond that, more

valleys,--pines, pines, an ocean of pines, and on the far horizon,

pines still on the mountain tops.

And I left the place.

[Illustration 055]

I crossed next a wood of cork trees, where, a year ago, I had

experienced a shock of strong and moving surprise.

[Illustration 056]

It was on a grey day of October, at the time when they strip the bark

of these trees, to make corks of it. They strip them thus from the foot

to the first branches, and the denuded trunk becomes red, a blood red

as of a flayed limb. They have grotesque and twisted shapes; the look

of maimed creatures writhing in epileptic fits, and I suddenly fancied

myself transported into a forest of tormented beings, a bleeding and

Dantesque forest of hell, where men had roots, where bodies deformed by

torture, resembled trees, where life ebbed incessantly, in never-ending

torment by these bleeding wounds, which produced upon me the tension

of the nerves and faintness that sensitive people feel at the sudden

sight of blood, or the unexpected shock of a man crushed, or fallen

from a roof. And this emotion was so keen, this sensation so vivid,

that I imagined I heard distracting cries and plaints, distant and

innumerable; I touched one of these trees, to reassure my fainting

spirit, and I fancied, I beheld my hand, as I drew it back, covered

with blood.

To-day they are cured--till the next barking.

At length the road appears, passing near the farm which has sheltered

the long happiness of the non-commissioned officer of hussars, and the

Colonel's daughter.

From afar, I recognize the old man walking among the vines. So much the

better; the wife will be alone in the house.

The servant was washing in front of the door.

"Your mistress is here," I said.

[Illustration 057]

She replied, with a singular look, in the accent of the south:

"No, sir; since six months she is no more."

"She is dead?"

"Yes, sir."

"And of what?"

The woman hesitated, then muttered:

"She is dead--dead, I tell you."

"But of what?"

"Of a fall, then!"

"A fall! where from?"

"From the window."

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