THE LOST NAPOLEON

The lost Napoleon is a part of a mountain range. Several miles of

it--say six. When you stand at the right viewpoint and look across the

plain, there, miles away, stretched out on his back under the sky, you

see the great Napoleon, sleeping, with his arm folded upon his breast.

You recognize him at once and you catch your breath and a thrill goes

through you from head to foot--a most natural thing to happen, for you

have never been so superbly astonished in your life before, and you

realize, if you live a century, it is not likely that you will ever

encounter the like of that tremendous surprise again. You see, it is

unique. You have seen mountain ridges before that looked like men lying

down, but there was always some one to pilot you to the right viewpoint,

and prepare you for the show, and then tell you which is the head and

which the feet and which the stomach, and at last you get the idea and

say, “Yes, now I see it, now I make it out--it is a man, and wonderful,

too.” But all this has damaged the surprise and there is not much

thrill; moreover, the man is only a third-rate celebrity or no celebrity

at all--he is no Napoleon the Great. But I discovered this stupendous

Napoleon myself and was caught wholly by surprise, hence the splendid

emotion, the uplifting astonishment.

We have all seen mountains that looked like whales, elephants, recumbent

lions--correctly figured, too, and a pleasure to look upon--but we did

not discover them, somebody pointed them out to us, and in the same

circumstances we have seen and enjoyed stately crags and summits known

to the people thereabouts as “The Old Man’s Head,” “The Elephant’s

Head,” “Anthony’s Nose,” “The Lady’s Head,” etc., and we have seen

others that were named “Shakespeare’s Head,” and “Satan’s Head,” but

still the fine element of surprise was in almost all cases wanting.

The Lost Napoleon is easily the most colossal and impressive statue in

the world. It is several miles long; in form and proportions it is

perfect. It represents Napoleon himself and not another; and there is

something about the dignity and repose of the great figure that stirs

the imagination and half persuades it that this is not an unsentient

artifice of nature, but the master of the world sentient and

dreaming--dreaming of battle, conquest, empire. I call it the Lost

Napoleon because I cannot remember just where I was when I saw it. My

hope, in writing this, is that I may move some wandering tourist or

artist to go over my track and seek for it--seek for it, find it, locate

it exactly, describe it, paint it, and so preserve it against loss

again.

My track was down the Rhône; I made the excursion ten or eleven years

ago in the pleasantest season of the year. I took a courier with me and

went from Geneva a couple of hours by rail to the blue little Lake

Bourget, and spent the night in a mediæval castle on an island in that

little lake. In the early morning our boat came for us. It was a roomy

open boat fifteen or twenty feet long, with a single pair of long oars,

and with it came its former owner, a sturdy big boatman. The boat was

mine now; I think I paid five dollars for it. I was to pay the boatman a

trifling daily wage and his keep, and he was to take us all the way down

the Rhône to Marseilles. It was warm weather and very sunny, but we

built a canvas arch, like a wagon cover, over the aftermost third of the

boat, with a curtain at its rear which could be rolled up to let the

breeze blow through, and I occupied that tent and was always

comfortable. The sailor sat amidships and manned the oars, and the

courier had the front third of the boat to himself. We crossed the lake

and went winding down a narrow canal bordered by peasant houses and

vineyards, and after about a league of this navigation we came in sight

of the Rhône, a troubled gray stream which went tearing past the mouth

of the peaceful canal at a racing gait. We emerged into it and laid in

the oars. We could go fast enough in that current without artificial

aid. During the first days we slipped along down the curving bends at a

speed of about five miles an hour, but it slackened later.

Our days were all about alike. About four in the afternoon we tied up at

a village and I dined on the greensward in front of the inn by the

water’s edge, on the choicest chickens, vegetables, fruit, butter, and

bread, prepared in French perfection and served upon the whitest linen;

and as a rule I had the friendly house cat and dog for guests and

company and willing and able helpers. I slept in the inn; often in clean

and satisfactory quarters, sometimes in the same room with the cows and

the fleas. I breakfasted on the lawn in the morning with cat and dog

again; then laid in a stock of grapes and other fruits gathered fresh

from the garden and some bottles of red wine made on the premises, and

at eight or nine we went floating down the river again. At noon we went

ashore at a village, bought a freshly caught fish or two, had them

broiled, got some bread and vegetables, and set sail again at once. We

always lunched on board as we floated along. I spent my days reading

books, making notes, smoking, and in other lazy and enchanting ways, and

had the delightfulest ten-day voyage I have ever experienced.

It took us ten days to float to Arles. There the current gave out and I

closed the excursion and returned to Geneva by rail. It was twenty-eight

miles to Marseilles, and we should have been obliged to row. That would

not have been pleasure; it would have meant work for the sailor, and I

do not like work even when another person does it.

I think it was about the eighth day that I discovered Napoleon. My notes

cover four or five days; there they stop; the charm of the trip had

taken possession of me, and I had no energy left. It was getting toward

four in the afternoon--time to tie up for the day. Down ahead on the

right bank I saw a compact jumble of yellowy-browny cubes stacked

together, some on top of the others, and no visible cracks in the mass,

and knew it for a village--a village common to that region down there; a

village jammed together without streets or alleys, substantially--where

your progress is mainly _through_ the houses, not _by_ them, and where

privacy is a thing practically unknown; a village which probably hadn’t

had a house added to the jumble for five hundred years. We were anywhere

from half a mile to a mile above the village when I gave the order to

proceed to that place and tie up. Just then I glanced to my left toward

the distant mountain range, and got that soul-stirring shock which I

have said so much about. I pointed out the grand figure to the courier,

and said:

“Name it. Who is it?”

“Napoleon!”

“Yes, it is Napoleon. Show it to the sailor and ask him to name it.”

The sailor said, “Napoleon.” We watched the figure all the time then

until we reached the village. We walked up the river bank in the morning

to see how far one might have to go before the shape would materially

change, but I do not now remember the result. We watched it afterward as

we floated away from the village, but I cannot remember at what point

the shape began to be marred. However, the mountains being some miles

away, I think that the figure would be recognizable as Napoleon along a

stretch of as much as a mile above and a mile below the village, though

I think that the likeness would be strongest at the point where I first

saw it--that is, half a mile or more above the village.

We talked the grand apparition over at great length and with a strong

interest. I said I believed that if its presence were known to the world

such shoals of tourists would come flocking there to see it that all the

spare ground would soon be covered with hotels; and I think so yet. I

think it would soon be the most celebrated natural curiosity on the

planet, that it would be more visited than Niagara or the Alps, and that

all the other famous natural curiosities of the globe would fall to a

rank away below it. I think so still.

There is a line of lumbering and thundering great freight steamers on

the Rhône, and I think that if some man will board one of them at Arles

and make a trip of some hours upstream--say from three to six--and keep

an eye out to the right and watch that mountain range he will be certain

to find the Lost Napoleon and have no difficulty in rediscovering the

mighty statue when he comes to the right point. It will cost nothing to

make the experiment, and I hope it will be done.

NOTE.--Mark Twain’s biographer rediscovered it in 1913. It is some

miles below Valence, opposite the village of Beauchastel.

SOME NATIONAL STUPIDITIES

(1891-1892)

The slowness of one section of the world about adopting the valuable

ideas of another section of it is a curious thing and unaccountable.

This form of stupidity is confined to no community, to no nation; it is

universal. The fact is the human race is not only slow about borrowing

valuable ideas--it sometimes persists in not borrowing them at all.

Take the German stove, for instance--the huge white porcelain monument

that towers toward the ceiling in the corner of the room, solemn,

unsympathetic, and suggestive of death and the grave--where can you find

it outside of the German countries? I am sure I have never seen it where

German was not the language of the region. Yet it is by long odds the

best stove and the most convenient and economical that has yet been

invented.[5]

To the uninstructed stranger it promises nothing; but he will soon find

that it is a masterly performer, for all that. It has a little bit of a

door which you couldn’t get your head into--a door which seems foolishly

out of proportion to the rest of the edifice; yet the door is right, for

it is not necessary that bulky fuel shall enter it. Small-sized fuel is

used, and marvelously little of that. The door opens into a tiny cavern

which would not hold more fuel than a baby could fetch in its arms. The

process of firing is quick and simple. At half past seven on a cold

morning the servant brings a small basketful of slender pine sticks--say

a modified armful--and puts half of these in, lights them with a match,

and closes the door. They burn out in ten or twelve minutes. He then

puts in the rest and _locks_ the door, and carries off the key. The work

is done. He will not come again until next morning. All day long and

until past midnight all parts of the room will be delightfully warm and

comfortable, and there will be no headaches and no sense of closeness or

oppression. In an American room, whether heated by steam, hot water, or

open fires, the neighborhood of the register or the fireplace is

warmest--the heat is not equally diffused through the room; but in a

German room one is as comfortable in one part of it as in another.

Nothing is gained or lost by being near the stove. Its surface is not

hot; you can put your hand on it anywhere and not get burnt. Consider

these things. One firing is enough for the day; the cost is next to

nothing; the heat produced is the same all day, instead of too hot and

too cold by turns; one may absorb himself in his business in peace; he

does not need to feel any anxieties or solicitudes about his fire; his

whole day is a realized dream of bodily comfort.

The German stove is not restricted to wood; peat is used in it, and coal

bricks also. These coal bricks are made of waste coal dust pressed in a

mold. In effect they are dirt and in fact are dirt cheap. The brick is

about as big as your two fists; the stove will burn up twenty of them in

half an hour, then it will need no more fuel for that day.

This noble stove is at its very best when its front has a big square

opening in it for a _visible_ wood fire. The real heating is done in the

hidden regions of the great structure, of course--the open fire is

merely to rejoice your eye and gladden your heart.

America could adopt this stove, but does America do it? No, she sticks

placidly to her own fearful and wonderful inventions in the stove line.

She has fifty kinds, and not a rational one in the lot. The American

wood stove, of whatsoever breed, is a terror. There can be no

tranquillity of mind where it is. It requires more attention than a

baby. It has to be fed every little while, it has to be watched all the

time; and for all reward you are roasted half your time and frozen the

other half. It warms no part of the room but its own part; it breeds

headaches and suffocation, and makes one’s skin feel dry and feverish;

and when your wood bill comes in you think you have been supporting a

volcano.

We have in America many and many a breed of coal stoves, also--fiendish

things, everyone of them. The base-burner sort are handy and require but

little attention; but none of them, of whatsoever kind, distributes its

heat uniformly through the room, or keeps it at an unvarying

temperature, or fails to take the life out of the atmosphere and leave

it stuffy and smothery and stupefying.

It seems to me that the ideal of comfort would be a German stove to heat

one’s room, and an open wood fire to make it cheerful; then have

furnace-heat in the halls. We could easily find some way to make the

German stove beautiful, and that is all it needs at present. Still, even

as it is to-day, it is lovely, it is a darling, compared with any

“radiator” that has yet been intruded upon the world. That odious gilded

skeleton! It makes all places ugly that it inhabits--just by contagion.

It is certainly strange that useful customs and devices do not spread

from country to country with more facility and promptness than they do.

You step across the German border almost anywhere, and suddenly the

German stove has disappeared. In Italy you find a foolish and

ineffectual modification of it, in Paris you find an unprepossessing

“adaptation” of our base-burner on a reduced pattern.

Fifteen years ago Paris had a cheap and cunning little fire kindler

consisting of a pine shaving, curled as it came from the carpenter’s

plane, and gummed over with an inflammable substance which would burn

several minutes and set fire to the most obdurate wood. It was cheap and

handy, but no stranger carried the idea home with him. Paris has another

swift and victorious kindler, now, in the form of a small black cake

made of I don’t know what; but you shove it under the wood and touch a

match to it and your fire is made. No one will think to carry that

device to America, or elsewhere. In America we prefer to kindle the fire

with the kerosene can and chance the inquest. I have been in a multitude

of places where pine cones were abundant, but only in the French Riviera

and in one place in Italy have I seen them in the wood box to kindle the

fires with.

For perfect adaptation to the service required, look at the American gum

shoe and the American arctic. Their virtues ought to have carried them

to all wet and snowy lands; but they haven’t done anything of the kind.

There are few places on the continent of Europe where one can buy them.

And observe how slowly our typewriting machine makes its way. In the

great city of Florence I was able to find only one place where I could

get typewriting done; and then it was not done by a native, but by an

American girl. In the great city of Munich I found one typewriting

establishment, but the operator was sick and that suspended the

business. I was told that there was no opposition house. In the

prodigious city of Berlin I was not able to find a typewriter at all.

There was not even one in our Embassy or its branches. Our

representative there sent to London for the best one to be had in that

capital, and got an incapable, who would have been tarred and feathered

in Mud Springs, Arizona. Four years ago a typewritten page was a seldom

sight in Europe, and when you saw it it made you heartsick, it was so

inartistic, and so blurred and shabby and slovenly. It was because the

Europeans made the machines themselves, and the making of nice machinery

is not one of their gifts. England imports ours, now. This is wise; she

will have her reward.

In all these years the American fountain pen has hardly got a start in

Europe. There is no market for it. It is too handy, too inspiring, too

capable, too much of a time saver. The dismal steel pen and the

compass-jawed quill are preferred. And semi-liquid mud is preferred to

ink, apparently, everywhere in Europe. This in face of the fact that

there is ink to be had in America--and at club rates, too.

Then there is the elevator, lift, _ascenseur_. America has had the

benefit of this invaluable contrivance for a generation and a half, and

it is now used in all our cities and villages, in all hotels, in all

lofty business buildings and factories, and in many private dwellings.

But we can’t spread it, we can’t beguile Europe with it. In Europe an

elevator is even to this day a rarity and a curiosity. Especially a

curiosity. As a rule it seats but three or four persons--often only

two--and it travels so slowly and cautiously and timorously and piously

and solemnly that it makes a person feel creepy and crawly and scary and

dismal and repentant. Anybody with sound legs can give the continental

elevator two flights the start and beat it to the sixth floor. Every

time these nations merely import an American idea, instead of importing

the concreted thing itself, the result is a failure. They tried to make

the sewing machine, and couldn’t; they are trying to make fountain pens

and typewriters and can’t; they are making these dreary elevators,

now--and patenting them! Satire can no further go.

I think that as a rule we develop a borrowed European idea forward, and

that Europe develops a borrowed American idea backward. We borrowed gas

lighting and the railroad from England, and the arc light from France,

and these things have improved under our culture. We have lent Europe

our tramway, telegraph, sewing machine, phonograph, telephone, and

kodak, and while we may not claim that in these particular instances she

has developed them backward, we are justified in claiming that she has

added no notable improvements to them. We have added the improvements

ourselves and she has accepted them. Why she has not accepted and

universally adopted the improved elevator is a surprising and puzzling

thing. Its rightful place is among the great ideas of our great age. It

is an epoch maker. It is a concentrator of population, and economizer of

room. It is going to build our cities skyward instead of out toward the

horizons.[6] It is going to enable five millions of people to live

comfortably on the same ground space that one million uncomfortably

lives on now. It is going to make cheap quarters for Tom, Dick, and

Harry near their work, in place of three miles from it, as is the rule

to-day. It is going to save them the necessity of adding a six-flight

climb to the already sufficient fatigue of their day’s labor.

We imitate some of the good things which we find in Europe, and we ought

to imitate more of them. At the same time Europe ought to imitate us

somewhat more than she does. The crusty, ill-mannered and in every way

detestable Parisian cabman ought to imitate our courteous and friendly

Boston cabman--and stop there. He can’t learn anything from the guild in

New York. And it would morally help the Parisian shopkeeper if he would

imitate the fair dealing of his American cousin. With us it is not

necessary to ask the price of small articles before we buy them, but in

Paris the person who fails to take that precaution will get scorched. In

business we are prompt, fair, and trustworthy in all our small trade

matters. It is the rule. In the friendliest spirit I would recommend

France to imitate these humble virtues. Particularly in the kodak

business. Pray get no kodak pictures developed in France--and especially

in Nice. They will send you your bill to Rome or Jericho, or

whithersoever you have gone, but that is all you will get. You will

never see your negatives again, or the developed pictures, either. And

by and by the head house in Paris will demand payment once more, and

constructively threaten you with “proceedings.” If you inquire if they

mailed your package across the frontier without registering it, they are

coldly silent. If you inquire how they expected to trace and recover a

lost package without a post-office receipt, they are dumb again. A

little intelligence inserted into the kodak business in those regions

would be helpful, if it could be done without shock.

But the worst of all is, that Europe cannot be persuaded to imitate our

railway methods. Two or three years ago I liked the European methods,

but experience has dislodged that superstition. All over the Continent

the system--to call it by an extravagant term--is sufficiently poor and

slow and clumsy, or unintelligent; but in these regards Italy and France

are entitled to the chromo. In Italy it takes more than half an hour to

buy a through ticket to Paris at Cook & Sons’ offices, there is such a

formidable amount of red tape and recording connected with the vast

transaction. Every little detail of the matter must be written down in a

set of books--your name, condition, nationality, religion, date, hour,

number of the train, and all that; and at last you get your ticket and

think you are done, but you are not; it must be carried to the station

and stamped; and even that is not the end, for if you stop over at any

point it must be stamped again or it is forfeited. And yet you save time

and trouble by going to Cook instead of to the station. Buying your

ticket does not finish your job. Your trunks must be weighed, and paid

for at about human-being rates. This takes another quarter of an hour of

your time--perhaps half an hour if you are at the tail of the

procession. You get paper checks, which are twice as easy to lose as

brass ones. You cannot secure a seat beforehand, but must take your

chances with the general rush to the train. If you have your family with

you, you may have to distribute them among several cars. There is one

annoying feature which is common all over the Continent, and that is,

that if you want to make a short journey you cannot buy your ticket

whenever you find the ticket office open, but must wait until it is

doing business for your particular train; and that only begins, as a

rule, a quarter of an hour before the train’s time of starting. The cars

are most ingeniously inconvenient, cramped, and uncomfortable, and in

Italy they are phenomenally dirty. The European “system” was devised

either by a maniac or by a person whose idea was to hamper, bother, and

exasperate the traveler in all conceivable ways and sedulously and

painstakingly discourage custom. In Italy, as far as my experience goes,

it is the custom to use the sleeping cars on the day trains and take

them off when the sun goes down. One thing is sure, anyway: if that is

not the case, it will be, presently, when they think of it. They can be

depended upon to snap up as darling an idea as that with joy.

No, we are bad enough about not importing valuable European ideas, but

Europe is still slower about introducing ours. Europe has always--from

away back--been neglectful in this regard. Take our admirable postal and

express system, for instance. We had it perfectly developed and running

smoothly and beautifully more than three hundred years ago; and Europe

came over and admired it and eloquently praised it--but didn’t adopt it.

We Americans.... But let Prescott tell about it. I quote from the

_Conquest of Peru_, chapter 2, vol. 1:

As the distance each courier had to perform was small, they ran over

the ground with great swiftness, and messages were carried through the

whole extent of the long routes at the rate of a hundred and fifty

miles a day. Their office was not limited to carrying dispatches. They

brought various articles. Fish from the distant ocean, fruits, game,

and different commodities from the hot regions of the coast were taken

to the capital in good condition. It is remarkable that this important

institution should have been found among two barbarian nations of the

New World long before it was introduced among the civilized nations of

Europe. By these wise contrivances of the Incas, the most distant

parts of the long-extended empire of Peru were brought into intimate

relations with each other. And while the capitals of Christendom, but

a few hundred miles apart, remained as far asunder as if seas had

rolled between them, the great capitals Cuzco and Quito were placed in

immediate correspondence. Intelligence from the numerous provinces was

transmitted on the wings of the wind to the Peruvian metropolis, the

great focus to which all the lines of communication converged.

There--that is what we had, three hundred and twenty-five years before

Europe had anything that could be called a businesslike and effective

postal and express service. We are a great people. We have always been a

great people, from the start: always alive, alert, up early in the

morning, and ready to teach. But Europe has been a slow and discouraging

pupil from the start; always, from the very start. It seems to me that

something ought to be done about this.

-----

Footnote 5:

Compare with his remarks on the same subject, in “Marienbad--A Health

Factory,” written about a year earlier.

Footnote 6:

This was good prophecy. There were no skyscrapers in New York City

when it was written.

THE CHOLERA EPIDEMIC IN HAMBURG

(1892)

I believe I have never been so badly situated before as I have been

during these last four weeks. To begin with, the time-hallowed and

business-worn thunderbolt out of the clear sky fell about the 18th of

August--people in Hamburg dying like flies of something resembling

cholera! A normal death rate of forty a day suddenly transformed into a

terrific daily slaughter without notice to anybody to prepare for such a

surprise! Certainly that was recognizable as that kind of a thunderbolt.

It was at this point that the oddity of the situation above referred to

began. For you will grant that it is odd to live four weeks a

twelve-hour journey from a devastating plague nest and remain baffled

and defeated all that time in all your efforts to get at the state of

the case there. Naturally one flies to the newspapers when a pestilence

breaks out in his neighborhood. He feels sure of one thing, at any rate:

that the paper will cast all other interests into the background and

devote itself to the one supreme interest of the day; that it will throw

wide its columns and cram them with information, valuable and otherwise,

concerning that great event; and that it will even leave out the idle

jaunts of little dukes and kinglets to make room for the latest plague

item. I sought the newspapers, and was disappointed. I know now that

nothing that can happen in this world can stir the German daily journal

out of its eternal lethargy. When the Last Day comes it will note the

destruction of the world in a three-line paragraph and turn over and go

to sleep again.

This sort of journalism furnishes plenty of wonders. I have seen

ostensible telegrams from Hamburg four days old, gravely put forth as

news, and no apology offered. I have tracked a news item from one paper

to another day after day until it died of old age and fatigue--and yet

everybody treated it with respect, nobody laughed. Is it believable that

these antiquities are forwarded by telegraph? It would be more rational

to send them by slow freight, because less expensive and more speedy.

Then, the meagerness of the news meal is another marvel. That department

of the paper is not headed “Poverty Column,” nobody knows why. We know

that multitudes of people are being swept away daily in Hamburg, yet the

daily telegrams from there could be copied on a half page of note paper,

as a rule. If any newspaper has sent a special reporter thither he has

not arrived yet.

The final miracle of all is the character of this daily dribble of

so-called news. The wisest man in the world can get no information out

of it. It is an Irish stew made up of unrelated odds and ends, a mere

chaotic confusion and worthless. What can one make out of statistics

like these:

Up to noon, 655 cases, 333 deaths. Of these 189 were previously

reported.

The report that 650 bodies are lying unburied is not true. There are

only 340, and the most of these will be buried to-night.

There are 2,062 cases in the hospitals, 215 deaths.

The figures are never given in such a way as to afford one an

opportunity to compare the death list of one day with that of another;

consequently there is no way of finding out whether the pest abates or

increases. Sometimes a report uses the expression “to-day” and does not

say when the day began or ended; sometimes the deaths for several days

are bunched together in a divisionless lump; sometimes the figures make

you think the deaths are five or six hundred a day, while other figures

in the same paragraph seem to indicate that the rate is below two

hundred.

A day or two ago the word cholera was not discoverable at all in that

day’s issue of one of our principal dailies; in to-day’s issue of the

same paper there is no cholera report from Hamburg. Yet a private letter

from there says the raging pestilence is actually increasing.

One might imagine that the papers are forbidden to publish cholera news.

I had that impression myself. It seemed the only explanation of the

absence of special Hamburg correspondence. But it appears now, that the

Hamburg papers are crammed with matter pertaining to the cholera,

therefore that idea was an error. How does one find this out? In this

amazing way: that a daily newspaper located ten or twelve hours from

Hamburg describes with owl-eyed wonder the stirring contents of a

Hamburg daily journal _six days old_, and yet gets from it the only

informing matter, the only matter worth reading, which it has yet

published from that smitten city concerning the pestilence.

You see, it did not even occur to that petrified editor to bail his

columns dry of their customary chloroform and copy that Hamburg journal

entire. He is so used to shoveling gravel that he doesn’t know a diamond

when he sees it. I would trust that man with untold bushels of precious

news, and nobody to watch him. Among other things which he notes in the

Hamburg paper is the fact that its supplements contained one hundred of

the customary elaborate and formal German death notices. That

means--what nobody has had reason to suppose before--that the slaughter

is not confined to the poor and friendless. I think so, because that

sort of death notice occupies a formidable amount of space in an

advertising page, and must cost a good deal of money.

I wander from my proper subject to observe that one hundred of these

notices in a single journal must make that journal a sorrow to the eye

and a shock to the taste, even among the Germans themselves, who are

bred to endure and perhaps enjoy a style of “display ads” which far

surpasses even the vilest American attempts, for insane and outrageous

ugliness. Sometimes a death notice is as large as a foolscap page, has

big black display lines, and is bordered all around with a coarse

mourning border as thick as your finger. The notices are of all sizes

from foolscap down to a humble two-inch square, and they suggest

lamentation of all degrees, from the hundred-dollar hurricane of grief

to the two-shilling sigh of a composed and modest regret. A newspaper

page blocked out with mourning compartments of fifty different sizes

flung together without regard to order or system or size must be a

spectacle to see.

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|                                                        |

|      Theilnehmenden Freunden und Bekannten hierdurch   |

|   die schmerzliche Nachricht, daß mein lieber Freund   |

|   und langjähriger, treuer Mitarbeiter           |

|                                                        |

|                      Rudolf Beck                       |

|                                                        |

|gestern Abend an einem Herzschlag plötzlich verschieden |

|ist.                                                    |

|                                                        |

|             =Langen=, den 5. September 1892.           |

|                                                        |

|                  Otto Steingoetter                     |

|                                                        |

|            Firma =Beck & Steingoetter=.                |

|                                                        |

|    Die Beerdigung findet Dienstag, den 6. Sept.,       |

|    Nachmittags 3½ Uhr, statt.                          |

|                                                 25958  |

+--------------------------------------------------------+

The notice copied above is modest and straightforward. The advertiser

informs sympathizing friends and acquaintances that his dear friend and

old and faithful fellow laborer has been suddenly smitten with death;

then signs his name and adds “of the firm of Beck & Steingoetter,” which

is perhaps another way of saying that the business will be continued as

usual at the old stand. The average notice is often refreshed with a

whiff of business at the end.

The 100 formal notices in the Hamburg paper did not mean merely 100

deaths; each told of one death, but many of them told of more--in some

cases they told of four and five. In the same issue there were 132

one-line death notices. If the dates of these deaths were all stated,

the 232 notices together could be made the basis of a better guess at

the current mortality in Hamburg than the “official” reports furnished,

perhaps. You would know that a certain number died on a certain day who

left behind them people able to publish the fact and pay for it. Then

you could correctly assume that the vast bulk of that day’s harvest were

people who were penniless and left penniless friends behind. You could

add your facts to your assumption and get _some_ sort of idea of the

death rate, and this would be strikingly better than the official

reports, since they give you no idea at all.

To-day a physician was speaking of a private letter received here

yesterday from a physician in Hamburg which stated that every day

numbers of poor people are snatched from their homes to the pest houses,

and that that is the last that is heard of a good many of them. No

intelligible record is kept; they die unknown and are buried so. That no

intelligible record is kept seems proven by the fact that the public

cannot get hold of a burial list for one day that is not made impossible

by the record of the day preceding and the one following it.

What I am trying to make the reader understand is, the strangeness of

the situation here--a mighty tragedy being played upon a stage that is

close to us, and yet we are as ignorant of its details as we should be

if the stage were in China. We sit “in front,” and the audience is in

fact the world; but the curtain is down and from behind it we hear only

an inarticulate murmur. The Hamburg disaster must go into history as the

disaster without a history. And yet a well-trained newspaper staff would

find a way to secure an accurate list of the new hospital cases and the

burials daily, and would do it, and not take it out in complaining of

the foolishness and futility of the official reports. Every day we know

exactly what is going on in the two cholera-stricken ships in the harbor

of New York. That is all the cholera news we get that is worth printing

or believing.

All along we have heard rumors that the force of workers at Hamburg was

too small to cope with the pestilence; that more help was impossible to

get; and we have seen statements which confirmed these sorrowful facts;

statements which furnished the pitiful spectacle of brave workers dying

at their posts from exhaustion; of corpses lying in the halls of the

hospitals, waiting there because there was no worker idle; and now comes

another confirmatory item; it is in the physician’s letter above

referred to--an item which shows you how hard pressed the authorities

are by their colossal burden--an item which gives you a sudden and

terrific sense of the situation there; for in a line it flashes before

you this ghastly picture, a thing seen by the physician: a wagon going

along the street with five sick people in it, and with them four

corpses!

QUEEN VICTORIA’S JUBILEE

(1897)

So far as I can see, a procession has value in but two ways--as a show

and as a symbol; its minor function being to delight the eye, its major

one to compel thought, exalt the spirit, stir the heart, and inflame the

imagination. As a mere show, and meaningless--like a Mardi-Gras march--a

magnificent procession is a sight worth a long journey to see; as a

symbol, the most colorless and unpicturesque procession, if it have a

moving history back of it, is worth a thousand of it.

After the Civil War ten regiments of bronzed New York veterans marched

up Broadway in faded uniforms and bearing faded battle flags that were

mere shot-riddled rags--and in each battalion as it swung by, one noted

a great gap, an eloquent vacancy where had marched the comrades who had

fallen and would march no more! Always, as this procession advanced

between the massed multitudes, its approach was welcomed by each block

of people with a burst of proud and grateful enthusiasm--then the head

of it passed, and suddenly revealed those pathetic gaps, and silence

fell upon that block; for every man in it had choked up, and could not

get command of his voice and add it to the storm again for many minutes.

That was the most moving and tremendous effect that I have ever

witnessed--those affecting silences falling between those hurricanes of

worshiping enthusiasm.

There was no costumery in that procession, no color, no tinsel, no

brilliancy, yet it was the greatest spectacle and the most gracious and

exalting and beautiful that has come within my experience. It was

because it had history back of it, and because it was a symbol, and

stood for something, and because one viewed it with the spiritual

vision, not the physical. There was not much for the physical eye to

see, but it revealed continental areas, limitless horizons, to the eye

of the imagination and the spirit.

A procession, to be valuable, must do one thing or the other--clothe

itself in splendors and charm the eye, or symbolize something sublime

and uplifting, and so appeal to the imagination. As a mere spectacle to

look at, I suppose that the Queen’s procession will not be as showy as

the Tsar’s late pageant; it will probably fall much short of the one in

Tannhäuser in the matter of rich and adorable costumery; in the number

of renowned personages on view in it, it will probably fall short of

some that have been seen in England before this. And yet in its major

function, its symbolic function, I think that if all the people in it

wore their everyday clothes and marched without flags or music, it would

still be incomparably the most memorable and most important procession

that ever moved through the streets of London.

For it will stand for English history, English growth, English

achievement, the accumulated power and renown and dignity of twenty

centuries of strenuous effort. Many things about it will set one to

reflecting upon what a large feature of this world England is to-day,

and this will in turn move one, even the least imaginative, to cast a

glance down her long perspective and note the steps of her progress and

the insignificance of her first estate. In this matter London is itself

a suggestive object lesson.

I suppose that London has always existed. One cannot easily imagine an

England that had no London. No doubt there was a village here 5,000

years ago. It was on the river somewhere west of where the Tower is now;

it was built of thatched mud huts close to a couple of limpid brooks,

and on every hand for miles and miles stretched rolling plains of fresh

green grass, and here and there were groups and groves of trees. The

tribes wore skins--sometimes merely their own, sometimes those of other

animals. The chief was monarch, and helped out his complexion with blue

paint. His industry was the chase; his relaxation was war. Some of the

Englishmen who will view the procession to-day are carrying his ancient

blood in their veins.

It may be that that village remained about as it began, away down to the

Roman occupation, a couple of thousand years ago. It was still not much

of a town when Alfred burned the cakes. Even when the Conqueror first

saw it, it did not amount to much. I think it must have been short of

distinguished architecture or he would not have traveled down into the

country to the village of Westminster to get crowned. If you skip down

350 years further you will find a London of some little consequence, but

I believe that that is as much as you can say for it. Still, I am

interested in that London, for it saw the first two processions which

will live longer than any other in English history, I think; the date of

the one is 1415, that of the other is 1897.

The compactly built part of the London of 1415 was a narrow strip not a

mile long, which stretched east and west through the middle of what is

now called “the City.” The houses were densest in the region of

Cheapside. South of the strip were scattering residences which stood in

turfy lawns which sloped to the river. North of the strip, fields and

country homes extended to the walls. Let us represent that London by

three checker-board squares placed in a row; then open out a New York

newspaper like a book, and the space which it covers will properly

represent the London of to-day by comparison. It is the difference

between your hand and a blanket. It is possible that that ancient London

had 100,000 inhabitants, and that 100,000 outsiders came to town to see

the procession. The present London contains five or six million

inhabitants, and it has been calculated that the population has jumped

to 10,000,000 to-day.

The pageant of 1415 was to celebrate the gigantic victory of Agincourt,

then and still the most colossal in England’s history.

From that day to this there has been nothing that even approached it but

Plassey. It was the third and greatest in the series of monster

victories won by the English over the French in the Hundred Years’

War--Crecy, Poitiers, Agincourt. At Agincourt, according to history,

15,000 English, under Henry V, defeated and routed an army of 100,000

French. Sometimes history makes it 8,000 English and 60,000 French; but

no matter, in both cases the proportions are preserved. Eight thousand

of the French nobility were slain and the rest of the order taken

prisoners--1,500 in number--among them the Dukes of Orléans and Bourbon

and Marshal Boucicaut; and the victory left the whole northern half of

France an English possession. This wholesale depletion of the

aristocracy made such a stringent scarcity in its ranks that when the

young peasant girl, Joan of Arc, came to undo Henry’s mighty work

fourteen years later she could hardly gather together nobles enough to

man her staff.

The battle of Agincourt was fought on the 25th of October, and a few

days later the tremendous news was percolating through England.

Presently it was sweeping the country like a tidal wave, like a cyclone,

like a conflagration. Choose your own figure, there is no metaphor known

to the language that can exaggerate the tempest of joy and pride and

exultation that burst everywhere along the progress of that great news.

The king came home and brought his soldiers with him--he and they the

idols of the nation, now. He brought his 1,500 captive knights and

nobles, too--we shall not see any such output of blue blood as that

to-day, bond or free. The king rested three weeks in his palace, the

Tower of London, while the people made preparations and prepared the

welcome due him. On the 22d of December all was ready.

There were no cables, no correspondents, no newspapers then--a

regrettable defect, but not irremediable. A young man who would have

been a correspondent if he had been born 500 years later was in London

at the time, and he remembers the details. He has communicated them to

me through a competent spirit medium, phrased in a troublesome mixture

of obsolete English and moldy French, and I have thoroughly modernized

his story and put it into straight English, and will here record it. I

will explain that his Sir John Oldcastle is a person whom we do not know

very well by that name, nor much care for; but we know him well and

adore him, too, under his other name--Sir John Falstaff. Also, I will

remark that two miles of the Queen’s progress to-day will be over ground

traversed by the procession of Henry V; all solid bricks and mortar,

now, but open country in Henry’s day, and clothed in that unapproachable

beauty which has been the monopoly of sylvan England since the creation.

Ah, where now are those long-vanished forms, those unreturning feet! Let

us not inquire too closely. Translated, this is the narrative of the

spirit-correspondent, who is looking down upon me at this moment from

his high home, and admiring to see how the art and mystery of spelling

has improved since his time!

Europe and elsewhere · 第 47 / 98 题