Columbus is built on the banks of the Sciota, about 90 miles from the

point where it falls into the Ohio. It is the capital of the State, and

its streets, like those of Washington, have been laid out with a view to

its becoming one day a town of importance; but as the preparations for

this, though on a considerable scale, are not so great as at

Washington, the non-completion of the plan in its full extent produces

no disagreeable effect. In fact, the streets where finished are

completely so, and the unfinished parts consist of an extension of

these, in the shape of long avenues of trees. In the principal streets

the houses are not continuous, but in detached villas, and, judging by

the one in which Mr. Neil lives, appear to be very comfortable

residences. He and his niece called upon us yesterday evening, and,

although he is an elderly gentleman, he was here by appointment this

morning at half-past 8, and took papa to call on Mr. Dennison, when they

arranged together the programme for the day.

At 11 o'clock Mr. Dennison called, and took us to the Penitentiary,

where nearly 700 prisoners are confined. I think he said 695, although

it will hold the full number of 700 if need be. For the credit of the

sex, I must say that only ten out of the whole are females. These ten

are lodged each in a small room, for it can scarcely be called a cell,

very well furnished, and opening into a large sitting-room, of which

they all have the unrestrained use, although the presence of a matron

puts a restraint on their tongues. They were employed in needlework. The

cells of the men are arranged in tiers, and are certainly very

different looking habitations to those of the women, and greatly

inferior in size and airiness to the cells at Philadelphia, where, in

addition to the grating in front of the cell, there was a door behind

leading into a small enclosure or court. Here the only opening in the

cell is by a door into a long gallery, and the cells were much smaller

than either at Philadelphia or at Kingston; but the prisoners only

inhabit these cells at night, the solitary system not being adopted or

approved of here.

The silent system, however, is practised here as at Kingston, and the

prisoners are employed in large workshops, chiefly in making

agricultural instruments, hoops for casks, saddles, carpenters' tools,

and even rocking horses and toys, which must be rather heart-breaking

work for those who have children. The men have certain tasks allotted

them, and when the day's work is done, may devote the rest of their time

to working on their own account, which most of them do; the chief warden

told us that he had lately paid a man, on his leaving the prison, a

hundred and twenty-five dollars for extra work done in this way. The

warden told us that the men, when discharged, were always strongly urged

to return to their own homes instead of seeking to retrieve their

characters elsewhere, and that their doing so was generally attended

with a better result than when they went to a new place and had no check

on their proceedings. This does away with the chief argument of our

quaker friend at Philadelphia, in favour of the solitary system, which

was, that the prisoner's return to his friends became more easy, when

none of them knew that he had been in prison, of which they could not

well be ignorant if he had mixed with other prisoners in a public jail.

It must be borne in mind, however, that the great demand in this country

for work renders it much more easy for a person so circumstanced to

obtain employment, even with a damaged character, than in England, where

our ticket-of-leave men find this almost impossible. There is also, we

are told, a kinder feeling towards prisoners here on their leaving the

jail than in England, and this saves them from the want and consequent

temptation to which our English ticket-of-leave men are exposed; the

result is that a much less proportion of those released in America are

re-committed for new offences.

We visited the workshops, and afterwards went into a large court to see

the men defile in gangs, and march into their dining hall, in which we

afterwards saw them assembled at dinner, and a capital savoury dinner

it seemed to be. They have as much bread as they choose to eat, and meat

twice a day; their drink is water, except when the doctor orders it

otherwise. There are chaplains, called here Moral Instructors, who visit

them and perform the service in the chapel, and evening schools are

provided, at which the chaplains attend to teach reading, writing, and

arithmetic. A library of books of general information is provided for

the prisoner's use, and to each a Bible is given, and they are allowed

to buy sound and useful books. They have each a gas lamp in their cell,

which enables them to read there when their work is done, and they are

allowed to see their friends in the presence of an officer. Sixty of the

prisoners were Negroes, which is a large proportion when compared with

the total numbers of the white and black population, especially as the

blacks are often let off, owing to the leniency of the committing

magistrates who have compassion on their inferior intelligence; and it

is owing, it is said, to a like leniency that there are so few females,

though certainly not for the same reason. There are a large number of

Irish in the prison.

Our next visit, still under Mr. Dennison's escort, was to the Capitol or

State House, a very fine building of white limestone. The façade is more

than 300 feet long, and the height nearly 160 feet to the top of the

dome. This however has not yet been completed. The architecture is

Grecian. Here, as at Washington, are Halls for the Senate and House of

Representatives, in equally good taste and somewhat similarly arranged.

Mr. Dennison, who had once been a member of the Senate, was repudiating

the accounts so commonly given of the behaviour of the senators, when

Mr. Niel came in, and over-hearing what he was saying, begged to remark

that when they "went to work" they usually divested themselves of their

coats without substituting any senatorial garment in its place; and

putting his legs on the desk before the chair, he declared that such was

the usual posture in which they listened to the oratory of the place.[8]

We afterwards went through the apartments appropriated to the Treasurer

and Auditor of the State, the two chief officers of the Government,

which are very capacious and well fitted up--and we were specially

introduced to both these functionaries; Mr. Neil, who is somewhat of a

wag, was rather jocose with them, and high as their position here is,

they very cordially retaliated on him. We next went to those

appropriated to the Governor of the State, General Chase, in order that

we might be introduced to him, but he was out, which we regretted. He is

a candidate to succeed Mr. Buchanan as President. The remainder of the

building was occupied by numerous committee-rooms, by the courts of law,

the judges' apartments, a law library, and a beautiful room intended for

a general library, but in which the collection of books at present is

very small. On the whole the building and its contents are very

creditable to this, the largest and wealthiest of the States in the

West, considering that forty years ago the country here was a wild

forest region where no tree had been cut down.

_25th October._--We have seen Columbus well, and it has much to attract

attention. On Saturday we went from the Capitol to the Lunatic Asylum,

but excepting in its being more pleasingly arranged than the one at

Utica, there was nothing very striking in its appearance. The galleries

in which the patients were walking were prettily decorated with flowers

cut out in paper, giving it a very gay appearance; and when the

patients become desponding, they have a dance in the great hall, to

revive them. The matron who went round with us said that the men and

women conduct themselves on these occasions with perfect propriety. The

men and women are otherwise so entirely separated in this Asylum that

papa went round to the men's wards with the doctor, while I was taken

round by the matron to those appropriated to the women. We thought it a

pleasant, cheerful-looking place, considering the melancholy object to

which it is devoted.

The next sight we saw was, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb: being

Saturday, we could not see the mode of tuition, but we have gone through

it this morning, and yesterday we attended the afternoon service there,

so that in our three visits we have been able to form a pretty good idea

of the system carried out. They have an alphabet by which they can spell

words, which they do by using one hand only. They speak thus with

considerable rapidity, but this method is confined almost entirely to

express proper names and words of uncommon use, as the whole

conversation is carried on in general by signs, and it was most

beautiful to see the graceful manner in which the matron spoke to them.

As this system of signs does not represent words, but _things_ and

_ideas_, it has the great advantage of being universally understood when

taught, and as the same system is adopted in several countries of

Europe, in Norway and Sweden for example, a Norwegian and American child

can converse easily together without either knowing a syllable of the

other's language. It seems quite as rapid as talking.

We were present at the afternoon sermon, which lasted about half an

hour, the subject being that of Simeon in the Temple, and except to

express Simeon's name, there was no use at all made of the fingers. Dr.

Stone, the principal, had preached in the morning on the subject of

Daniel's interpretation of Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and when we went, the

children were being examined on the subject of this lecture. We _saw_ a

number of questions asked, but in this case the words were spelled in

order that Dr. Stone, who was teaching them, might be satisfied that

they understood the full meaning of the question in its grammatical

sense, as well as its general signification, and the answers were all

written down on large black boards. They wrote with prodigious rapidity

in large distinct writing--and the answers, which were all different and

showed they were not got up by rote, were in most cases very good. This

was being done by the eldest class, and some of the elder boys and girls

seemed full of intelligence. We saw minutely only what was going on in

this and in the youngest class, which was no less remarkable,

considering that some of the children had not been more than two or

three months in the Asylum, and when they came there had no idea of

either reading or writing.

When I say the youngest class, it is not with reference to the age of

the pupils, but to the recent period of their admission, for some of

them were as old in years as in the first class, while others were very

young; one of them, a very pretty little Jewish girl with sparkling

intelligent eyes, was indeed a mere child. We had on Sunday seen this

little girl being taught her lesson, which consisted of the simple

words, "I must be kind," and it was very pretty to see the way in which

the notion of kindness was conveyed by signs. This morning she was

writing this on the slate, and she afterwards wrote in a very neat

handwriting a number of short words--cat, dog, horse, &c.--which were

dictated to her by signs which were of so simple a nature that we could

understand many of them; a goat, for example, was represented by the

fingers being stuck on each side of the head as horns, and then by the

man drawing his hand down from his chin to indicate the beard. They thus

became acquainted by signs with almost every object in the first

instance, and are led on by degrees to complex ideas of every kind. Dr.

Stone says that the use of signs is known in England, but he believes is

never practised to any extent, and certainly not in giving religious

instruction. No attempt is made here, as in England, to teach them to

articulate, as he considered the attempt to do this to be a great

mistake, it being a painful effort to the child, which never leads to

any good practical result. In some cases where deafness has been

accidentally brought on after children have learned to speak, it is then

as far as possible kept up; but even then the effort, as we saw, was

very painful.

Our next visit was to the Blind Institution, but here there was nothing

very remarkable, though owing to the children not being in school we saw

the Institution very imperfectly. Raised characters are used here, as I

believe everywhere else; one little girl who was called up read and

pronounced very well; we also heard some of them sing and play for a

considerable time. The bulk of the children, or rather young people, for

they keep them here till they are one or two and twenty, were walking

about the gardens invariably in pairs, which seems an excellent

preservative against accidents: this they do of their own accord.

We next went to the Idiot Asylum, but the children being, as usual on

Saturday, out of doors, we merely took a general look at the place, and

returned there this morning to see the system pursued for them more in

detail. Dr. Patterson, the superintendent, is a man of wonderful energy;

and two young women and a matron, the two young teachers especially,

must be exemplary characters, for they appear to devote themselves to

their work with an energy and kindness which is perfectly marvellous,

considering the apparently hopeless task they are engaged in. However,

when taken young, from six to seven years of age, the capabilities of

these poor children for improvement seem in general great, unless the

infirmity is occasioned by epileptic fits, when the cure is considered

almost hopeless. We were entertained by a story told by Dr. Patterson of

a boy brought to him by the Mayor of C., who told him it was a bad case,

but that he would be satisfied if he could fit him to be a missionary.

Dr. P. replied that he could not answer for that, but that he could at

all events fit him to be Mayor of C.

The great means resorted to for improvement is constant occupation,

changed every quarter of an hour through out the day. By this means

their physical power at night is nearly exhausted, and they invariably

sleep well; where no greater improvement is arrived at, they can in all

cases gain cleanly habits, and get entirely rid of that repulsive

appearance which an idiot left to himself is almost sure at last to

acquire. Active exercises are what they resort to in the first instance;

they have a large school-room fitted up with ladders and gymnastic

apparatus of all kinds. We saw little boys, who shortly before were

scarcely able to stand alone, climbing places which made me tremble for

their safety, but it was curious to observe with what caution they did

it.

When we entered the room the youngest class were all standing round a

piano, at which one of the teachers was playing, whilst she and the

other teacher were leading them on in singing a cheerful song, and it

was really quite touching to hear and see them; they sang very fairly,

not worse than children usually do at that age. After a quarter of an

hour of this they went through their Calisthenic exercises, marching in

perfect time, clapping their hands, and going through different

gestures with great accuracy, and these poor children a very few months

ago had hardly any control over their actions.

Another thing taught is, to distinguish colour and form--for which

purpose they have cards cut out into circles, squares, and octagons--and

other marked shapes, of every variety and shade of colour. Five or six

of these of different sorts were spread on the table, and a large

unsorted pack was placed before a little boy five or six years old, and

it was quite interesting to see him proceed to sort them by placing each

one on the top of the counterpart which had been placed at first on the

table. As there were many more kinds in the pack than those spread out

on the table, when he came to a new one he first placed it in contact

with the others to see if it suited, and after going round them all and

seeing that none were the same, he appeared puzzled, and at last set it

down in a place by itself. Although there was a certain degree of

vacancy in the expression of the child, it seemed quite to brighten up

at each successive step, and the occupation was evidently a source of

considerable enjoyment to him. This little fellow had been a very short

time in the Asylum, and when admitted had not the slightest idea of

form, colour, or size.

Another mode adopted is, to take little blocks of wood of different

sizes and forms, which the child is required to fit into corresponding

holes cut out in a board. All this is for the least advanced pupils.

They learn afterwards to read and write, and some of the very little

ones traced lines upon a board as well as most children could do with

all their senses about them. The elder ones could write short words and

read easy books; they are taught to read by having short words like cow,

dog, ox, printed on cards, and are then shown by a picture what the

words represent, and they are not taught their letters or to spell words

till they begin to learn to write; the elementary books therefore

consist chiefly of words representing ideas quite independently of the

letters of which the words are formed. Many, however, can never fully

obtain the power of speech, and that without any physical defect in

their organs, and without the accompaniment of deafness, for they hear

perfectly. In these instances to teach them to speak is very difficult,

and sometimes hopeless. The poor little boy whom we saw sorting his

cards, was one of those cases in which no articulate sound had ever been

uttered, or could be produced by any teaching. At the same time the

development of his head, and that of many others, was almost perfect

and quite a beau ideal of what a head should be.

I forgot in speaking of the deaf and dumb to mention that their crying

and laughter were quite like those of other children, and it appears to

be the same with the idiots, even though they cannot speak. There was

among the idiots one boy in irons to support his legs, which were

otherwise quite without power, and he seemed under this treatment to be

rapidly improving. They all have meat twice a day, and great care is

taken to feed them generously. The only other sight in Columbus is the

Medical College, which, however, we had no time to go over. We must,

however, except the Governor's house, not forgetting its inmates,

Governor Chase himself, and his interesting daughter. We had been

introduced to the Governor by Mr. Dennison, after missing him on

Saturday at the Capitol, and he most kindly asked us to drink tea and

spend the evening with him, apologising for time not permitting his

daughter to call upon us. He is Governor of the State of Ohio, an office

that is held for two years. He is a first-rate man in talent and

character,--a strong abolitionist, and a thorough gentleman in his

appearance--showing that the active and adventurous habits of his

nation are quite consistent with the highest polish and refinement. He

is deeply involved in the politics of his country, and, as I said

before, is a candidate for the next presidentship. His strong views on

the question of slavery will probably be a bar to his success, but

unfortunately another hindrance may be that very high social character

for which he is so remarkable. To judge at least by the treatment of

such men as Henry Clay, and others of his stamp, it would appear as if

real merit were a hindrance rather than a help to the attainment of the

highest offices in America.[9]

The Governor's house looked externally something like an English rectory

standing in a little garden, and we were at first shown into a small

sitting-room. It seems the fashion all over America, as it is abroad, to

leave the space open in the middle of the room, and the chairs and sofas

arranged round the walls, but there is always a good carpet of lively

colours or a matting in summer, and not the bare floor so constantly

seen in France and Germany. The little gathering consisted of the

Governor, his two daughters (his only children), his niece, and his

sister, Mr. Dennison, and Mr. Barnay, a clever New York lawyer, with

whom we had crossed the Atlantic. But if the Governor recommended

himself to us as a gentleman, what am I to say of his daughter? Papa has

gone out and has left her description to me, whereas he could give a

much more lively one, as he at once lost his heart to her. Her figure is

tall and slight, but at the same time beautifully rounded; her neck long

and graceful, with a sweet pretty brunette face. I seldom have seen such

lovely eyes and dark eyelashes; she has rich dark hair in great

profusion, but her style and dress were of the utmost simplicity and

grace, and I almost forgave papa for at once falling in love with her.

Her father has been three times a widower, though not older-looking than

papa, and with good reason he worships his daughter. She has been at the

head of her father's house for the last six months, and the _naïve_

importance she attached to her office gave an additional attraction to

her manners. While we sat talking in the little room the Governor handed

me a white and red rose as being the last of the season. He had placed

them ready for me in a glass, and I have dried them as a memorial of

that pleasant evening. We soon went into the dining-room, where tea and

coffee were laid out on a light oak table, with an excellent _compôte_

of apples, a silver basket full of sweet cakes, of which the Americans

are very fond: bread--alas! always cut in slices whether at the hotels

or in private, fresh butter,--an improvement on the usual salt butter of

the country, and served, as it generally is, in silver perforated dishes

to allow of the water from the ice to drain through, and a large tureen

of cream toast. This is also a common dish, being simply slices of toast

soaked in milk or cream and served hot. It often appears at the hotels,

but there it is milk toast, and is not so good. I thought the cream

toast excellent, and a great improvement on our bread and milk in

England, but papa did not like it. The Governor and his fair daughter

presided at the table, the Governor first saying grace very reverently,

and we had a very pleasant repast.

After this we were conducted to the drawing-room. Such a _bijou_ of a

room! The size was about twenty feet by eighteen, and the walls and

ceiling, including doors, window-frames, and shutters--there were no

curtains, might have been all made of the purest white china. It is a

most peculiar and desirable varnish which is used on their wood-work

that gives this effect. Mr. Tyson told us that it is made of Canada

balsam, and that it comes therefore from our own territory, so that it

is very stupid of Cubitt and others not to make use of it. The effect is

like what the white wood-work of our drawing-room was when it was first

finished, and you may imagine the appearance of the whole room being

done with this fine white polish everywhere. We see it in all the hotels

and railway carriages, so that it cannot be expensive. The windows were

pointed, and the shutters were made to slide into the walls. They were

shut on that evening, and were made, as they often are, with a small

piece of Venetian blind-work let into them, also painted white. If we

had called in the morning we should probably have found the room in

nearly total darkness, as we found to be the case at Mr. Neil's, for the

dear Americans seem too much afraid of their sun. There was a white

marble table in the centre of this drawing-room, and the room was well

lighted with gas. The only ornament was a most lovely ideal head in

marble by Power, the sculptor of the Greek slave. The simplicity and

beauty of the room could not be surpassed, and we spent a most

interesting evening.

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