painted dark-brown, equal in size, and very much resembling in
appearance, our own D. P. H.; but standing in a melancholy street,
without the appendages of green-house, conservatory, and gate, as in
that choice London mansion. The Honourable Secretary's apartment was
downstairs in the area, and the convenience of its proximity to the
kitchen, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, as it was to-day, was
doubtless duly appreciated by him, he having just arrived from Turin. We
found him waiting for us, and he accompanied us to the President's
residence, called the White House. It is a handsome but unpretending
building, not like its neighbours, of marble, but painted to look like
stone; the public reception-rooms are alone shown, but a good-natured
servant let us see the private rooms, and took us out on a sort of
terrace behind, where we had a lovely view of the Potomac. The house is
situated in a large garden, opposite to which, on the other side of the
road, is a handsome, and well-kept square. The house has no pretensions
about it, but would be considered a handsome country house in England;
and the inside is quite in keeping, and well furnished. The furniture is
always renewed when a new President takes possession; and as this is the
case every four years, it cannot well become shabby.
In a line directly opposite the back of the house, and closing up the
view at the end of the gardens, stands the monument which is being
erected to Washington. This, when finished, is to be a circular
colonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from which
is to spring an obelisk 70 feet wide at the base, and 500 feet high, so
that, when completed, the whole will be as high as if our monument in
London were placed on the top of St. Paul's. At present nothing but its
ugly shaft is built, which has anything but a picturesque appearance,
and it is apparently likely to remain in this condition, as it is not
allowed to be touched by any but native republican hands, here a rather
scarce commodity. It is being built of white stone, one of the many
kinds found in this country. By the by, we omitted to state, in
describing the Capitol, that the balustrades of the staircases, and a
good deal of ornamental work about the building, are of marble, from a
quarry lately discovered in Tennessee, of a beautiful darkish lilac
ground, richly grained with a shade of its own colour; it is very
valuable, costing seven dollars per cubic foot.
From the President's house we went to the Observatory, which, though
unpretending in its external appearance, is said to be the finest in the
world next to the one at St. Petersburgh; so at least says the
Washington Guide Book, for I like to give our authority for what we
ourselves should not have supposed to be the case. Mr. Erskine
introduced himself, and then us, to Lieutenant Maury, who is at the
head of it, and is well known as a writer on meteorological subjects. He
is a most agreeable man, and we talked much about the comet, meteoric
stones, &c.; we asked him what he thought of Professor Silliman's notion
about the comet's tail being an electric phenomenon, but he seemed to
think little was known on the subject. He said this comet had never been
seen before, and might never return again, as its path seemed parabolic,
and not elliptical; but he said that what was peculiarly remarkable
about it was the extreme agitation observed in the tail, and even in the
nucleus, the motion appearing to be vibratory. With regard to meteoric
stones, he said the one we saw at New Haven, though of such a prodigious
size, being 200 lbs. heavier than the one in the British Museum, was a
fragment only of a larger stone. We asked permission to go to the top of
the observatory, and at a hint from papa, I expressed the great desire I
had to see Venus by daylight, through the great telescope; whereupon, he
sent for Professor B----, and asked him to take us up to the
observatory, and to direct the great telescope to Venus. We mounted
accordingly, and I was somewhat alarmed when the whole room in which we
were placed, began to revolve upon its axis.
Setting the telescope takes some minutes, and the Professor ejected us
from the room at the top of the building on to a balcony, from which we
had a most lovely view of the neighbouring country. By means of a very
good small telescope placed on a swivel, we could see most distinctly
the Military Retreat (the Chelsea of America), beautifully situated upon
a high hill about three miles off. We saw also through this telescope
the Smithsonian Institute, which we were glad to be able to study in
this way in detail, as we found we should not have time to go to it. It
is a very large building of the architecture of the twelfth century, and
the only attempt at Mediæval architecture which we have seen in the
United States.
The view of the Potomac and of the hill and buildings of George Town was
very extensive and remarkable; but before we had feasted our eyes
sufficiently on it, we were summoned to see one of the most lovely
sights I ever witnessed. Though it was mid-day, and the sun was shining
most brilliantly, we saw the exquisitely sharp crescent of Venus in the
pale sky, and about half the apparent size of the moon. The object-glass
of the instrument was divided into squares, and she passed rapidly
across the field of the telescope, sailing, as it were, in ether; by the
slightest motion of a tangent-screw of great length, we were able to
bring her back as often as we liked, to the centre of the field. This
mechanical process might, however, have been rendered unnecessary, had
the machinery attached to the instrument been wound up; for when this is
the case, if the telescope is directed to any star or point in the
heavens, it continues to point to it for the whole twenty-four hours in
succession, the machine revolving round in the plane to which it is set.
The instrument is a very powerful one, and, like the smaller one we
looked through before, was made by Fraunhofer, a famous optician at
Munich. There are some other very wonderful instruments which we had not
time to see, as we had to make desperate haste to get some dinner, and
be off by the late train to Baltimore. But before I take leave of this
subject, I must return for a minute or two to that most perfectly lovely
creature Venus. She was a true crescent; we could imagine we saw the
jagged edge of the inner side of the crescent, but the transition from
the planet to the delicate sky was so gradual, that as far as this inner
edge was concerned, this was probably only imagination. Her colouring
on this jagged side was of the most transparent silvery hue. The outer
edge was very sharply defined against the sky, and her colour shaded off
on this side to a pale golden yellow with a red or pink tint in it; this
being the side she was presenting to the sun. No words can express her
beauty. She is the planet that I told you lately looked so very large.
On our way to the station, and in our drives about the town, we had an
opportunity of seeing the City of Washington. The town was originally
laid out by Washington himself, and divided off into streets, or rather
wide avenues, which are crossed by other streets of great breadth; but
though the streets are named, in many of them no houses are yet built,
and those that are have a mean appearance, owing to their being unsuited
in height to the great width of the streets, which are in many cases, I
should think, three times the width of Portland Place, and long in
proportion. Notwithstanding, therefore, the beauty of the public
buildings, the town greatly disappointed us.
On our arrival at Baltimore this evening, Mr. Garrett, the principal
director of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, called upon us and brought
with him Mr. Henry Tyson, the chief engineer, or as he is called, the
master of machinery of the road, whom he was kind enough to appoint to
go with us as far as Wheeling, the western terminus of the line.
This is the most remarkable railway in America for the greatness of the
undertaking and the difficulties encountered in passing the Alleghanies,
which the projectors of the road could only do by crossing the range at
a height of 2700 feet, a project that most people looked upon as
visionary. We are to start to-morrow morning at eight o'clock.
_Wheeling, Oct. 21st._--We have accomplished the great feat of passing
the Alleghanies, and Mr. Tyson has proved a Cicerone of unequalled
excellence, from his great attention to us, added to his knowledge of
the country, and his talents, which are of no ordinary kind. He is the
engineer who has invented, or at least constructed on a new plan, the
locomotives which are used upon this road: but besides being a very
clever engineer, he is remarkably well read in general literature, and
has a wonderful memory for poetry and a great knowledge of botany.
[Illustration: Plan of Directors' car]
Though Mr. Garrett talked of the directors' car, we presumed it was only
a common carriage such as we had been accustomed to, but appropriated to
their use; instead of this we found a beautiful car, forty feet long by
eight wide, of which the accompanying diagram shows a plan drawn to
scale. Outside: painted maroon, highly varnished with Canada balsam: the
panels picked out with dark blue. Inside: painted pure white, also
varnished. Ceiling the same, divided into small narrow panels, with
excellent ventilators at each end. Round the car there were twenty-two
windows, not shown in the plan, and three brilliant lamps in the
sitting-room and hall, and one in the bed-room; these were lighted when
passing through the tunnels. There were three hooks in the wall serving
for hat pegs, and at the same time to support two flags for signals. A
large map of the mountain pass from Cumberland to Wheeling hung over the
sofa opposite the table. The table was covered with green baize
stretched tightly over it. On the table were placed a large
blotting-book, ink, and pens, three or four daily newspapers which were
changed each day, the yearly report of the railway, a peculiar
time-table book, containing rules for the guidance of the station men,
times of freight and passenger trains meeting and passing each other,
&c. Papa has these. The sofas are covered with a pretty green Brussels
carpet (small pattern) quilted like a mattress with green buttons,
chairs covered with corded wollen stuff, not a speck or spot of ink or
smut on anything. A neat carpet, not a speck or spot on it, a sheet of
tin under and all round the stove. Pantry cupboard containing knives and
forks, spoons, and mugs. Bed-room berths much higher and wider than in a
ship. Red coloured cotton quilts, with a shawl pattern, two pillows to
each bed, pillowcases of brilliant whiteness, sofa bed larger and longer
than a German bed. White Venetian blinds occupied the places usually
filled by the door panels and window shutters. Green Brussels carpet
like the cover of the sofa; three chairs to match. The windows in the
sitting-room had grey holland curtains running on wires with very neat
little narrow strips of leather, and a black button to fasten them, and
a button and well made button-hole below to keep them from blowing about
when the window is open. Looking-glass in neat gilt frame, hung over a
semicircular console in the bed-room, another near the washhandstand,
where a towel also hangs. Two drawers for clothes, &c. under berths.
Table-cloth for meals, light drab varnished cloth, imitating leather,
very clean and pretty, china plates, and two metal plates in case of
breakages. Luncheon consisted of excellent cold corned beef, tongue,
bread and butter, Bass's ale, beer, whiskey, champagne, all Mr. Tyson's.
We supplied cold fowls, bread, and claret. The door at the end opens on
a sort of platform or balcony, surrounded by a strong high iron railing,
with the rails wide enough apart to admit a man to climb up between them
into the car, which the workmen always do to speak to Mr. Tyson. Usual
step entrance at the other end. The platform can hold three arm chairs
easily, and we three sat there yesterday evening, talking and admiring
the view. The door was always open and we were in and out constantly.
Thrower and Gaspar, a capital German man-servant, sat in the hall.
Carpet swept by Gaspar after dinner to remove crumbs. I wear neither
bonnet nor shawl, but sit at the table and work, make mems., dry red
leaves, and learn their names from Mr. Tyson. Papa is always moving
about, and calling me out constantly to admire the view from the
balcony. Yesterday on the lower ground it was much too hot in the
middle of the day to be there, and we were glad to be within the car,
and to shade the glare of the sun by means of our pretty grey curtains,
though it was cooler on the mountain.
But I must begin to describe our road more methodically. As we wished to
get over the early part of it as expeditiously as possible, we started
by the mail train at 8.30. It will be impossible to describe at length
all the pretty places we passed, respecting each of which Mr. Tyson had
always something to say. Soon after leaving the Washington junction, we
came to a sweet spot called Ellicott's Mills, where he had spent his
boyhood, and where every rock was familiar to him. The family of
Ellicotts, who had resided there from the settlement of the country,
were his mother's relations, and by his father's side he was descended
from Lord Brooke, who was likewise one of the original settlers, the
Warwick branch of the family having remained in England.
We first came in sight of the Blue Ridge at about forty miles from
Baltimore. During the greater part of this distance we had been
following up the Patapaco river; but soon after this, at the Point of
Rocks, we came upon the Potomac. Here the Baltimore and Ohio canal, a
work of prodigious magnitude, and the railway run side by side between
the river and very high cliffs, though the space apparently could afford
room only for one of them. We reached Harper's Ferry a little after
twelve, and the view is certainly splendid. Mr. Tyson had made
arrangements to give the passengers a little extra time for dinner, that
he might take us to see the view from the heights above without
materially detaining the train; but the sun was so powerful that we were
glad to limit our walk in order to see a little in detail the bridge
over which we had just passed in the railway cars. It is a very
wonderful work, but not so remarkable for its length as for its peculiar
structure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions,
assuming the form of the letter S. It passes not only over the river but
over the canal, and before it reaches the western bank of the river it
makes a fork, one road going straight on, and the other, which we went
upon, forming the second bend of the S.
The curves in the railway are very sharp, and a speed of thirty-five
miles an hour is kept up in going round those which have a radius of 600
feet. This, and repeatedly recurring ascents of a very steep grade,
require engines which unite great power with precision in the
movements, and these are admirably combined in Mr. Tyson's engines;
which, moreover, have the advantage of entirely consuming their own
smoke, and we had neither sparks nor cinders to contend with. The common
rate of travelling, where the road is level, is forty miles an hour, and
at this rate each engine will take eighteen cars with 2600 passengers.
The difficulties they have to contend with on this road are greatly
increased by the snow drifts in winter. Mr. Tyson told us that on one
occasion the snow had accumulated in one night, by drifts, to fourteen
feet in the cuts, and it required ten freight engines of 200-horse power
each, or 2000-horse power altogether, to clear it away. Three hundred
men were employed, and the wind being bitterly cold, hardly any escaped
being frost-bitten. One of the tenders was completely crushed up by the
force applied; and in the middle of the night, with the snow still
driving, and in a piercing wind, they had to clear away the wreck:
nineteen engines, called snow ploughs, are kept solely to clear away the
snow.
At five o'clock we reached Cumberland, where we slept. After dinner we
walked out in the most lovely night possible to see the town, and the
moon being nearly full, we saw the valley as distinctly almost as by
daylight. There is a great gap here in the mountain, which forms a
prominent feature in the landscape, and a church on the summit of a high
hill rendered the picture almost perfect. We here saw the comet for the
last time.
Next morning, the 20th October, we started early, in order to be able to
take the mountain pass more leisurely, attached ourselves at 6.15 to the
express train, and reached Piedmont at 7.30. During this part of our
journey we continued to follow up the Potomac, but here we left it to
follow up the Savage river, and for seventeen miles continued to ascend
to Altamont, where we attained the summit level of 2700 feet above the
sea. We cast ourselves off from the express at Piedmont, and afterwards
tacked ourselves on to a train which left Piedmont at eight o'clock, and
got to Altamont at 9.45; these seventeen miles occupied an hour and
three quarters, the grade for eleven miles out of the seventeen being
116 feet per mile.
It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of the scenery here. The
road goes in a zig-zag the whole way. We passed several substantial
viaducts across the Savage river, often at a great height above the
valley, and on many occasions, when the road made one of its rapid
turns, a vista of many miles up the gorges was obtained.
Of course the greatest skill is required in driving the engine up what
is called the "Mountain Division." We mounted on the locomotive, to have
a more perfect view of the ascent. This locomotive is very different to
an English one, as the place where the driver sits is enclosed on three
sides with glass, so as to shelter him and those with him from the
weather. Mr. Tyson thought it necessary to drive a small part of the way
himself; but after that, he resigned his position, as will be seen by
the following certificate, to one equally qualified for an emergency,
though hitherto his peculiar talent in that line had not been developed.
"Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Machinery Department.
"Baltimore, Oct. 21st, 1858.
"This is to certify that Mr. A. T. has occupied the position of
'Locomotive Engineer,' on the _Mountain Division_ (3rd) of the
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad.
"The term of his occupation has been characterised by a close
attention to his duties, and consequent freedom from accidents.
(Signed) "HENRY TYSON,
"Master of Machinery,
"Baltimore and Ohio R. R. Co."
Papa, in fact, drove the engine a considerable way up the steepest part
of the ascent, and as the driver must command an uninterrupted view of
the road before him, he had a capital opportunity of seeing the country.
Thrower and I sat on a seat behind him; but he alone had the full view,
as the chimney of the engine rather obstructed ours in front, though on
each side we saw perfectly. The whistle of the engine, when so close to
our ears, was splendid, or perhaps you would have said, terrific.
From Altamont to Cranberry Summit, where the descent begins, there is a
comparatively level country, called the Glades, which are beautiful
natural meadows undulating and well cultivated, with high ranges of
mountains, generally at no great distance from the road, but varying a
good deal in this respect, so as sometimes to leave a considerable plain
between it and the range. From these glades numerous valleys diverge,
and, in looking down these, splendid vistas are obtained. The verdure
even now is very bright, and the streams, which are everywhere to be
seen, are remarkably clear and pure; so that although the interest of
the road was less absorbing than when we were ascending the mountains,
it was still very great. From Cranberry Summit the distant views to the
westward were quite magnificent.
We now entered on what is called the "Cheat River Region," and the
descent to Grafton (a distance of thirty miles) is even more beautiful
than the ascent to Altamont. To give you some slight idea of the nature
of the road and of the scenery, I enclose a photograph of one of the
bridges over the Cheat River. This is called the Tray Run Viaduct, and
it is 640 feet long; the masonry is seventy-eight feet high, and the
iron-work above that is eighty feet. The road here is about seven
hundred feet above the river, which runs in the valley below. This
river, the Cheat, is a dark, rapid, mountain stream, the waters of which
are almost of a coffee-colour, owing, it is said, to its rising in
forests of laurel and black spruce, with which the high lands here
abound.
We passed hereabouts many curious-looking log houses, a photograph of
one of which we enclose.[7] You will observe the man with a cradle by
his side, and his whip, gun, bottle, jar, &c., also the chimney, which
is a remarkable structure, consisting of a barrel above a heap of
stones, showing the resources of the West.
Before reaching Grafton, we passed the Great Kingwood tunnel, which is
much thought of in America, being 4100 feet in length, though it is
greatly beat by many of our tunnels in England; but tunnels are rare in
America, as the roads generally run through the valleys.
We reached Grafton at four o'clock, and had a lovely afternoon to
explore the beauties of the neighbourhood. We went into a number of
cottages and log-huts, and were delighted with the people; but the
details of our Grafton visit must be given to you _vivâ voce_ on our
return. The night was brilliant, and it was one o'clock in the morning
before we took our last look of the moonlit valley, and of the rivers
which here joined their streams almost under the windows of our rooms.
We may mention that in this day's journey, we passed the source of the
Monongahela, the chief branch of what afterwards becomes the Ohio. It is
here a tiny little clear stream, winding through the glades we have
spoken of.
On Thursday morning, though it was past one before we went to bed, I was
up at six, as soon as it was light, to make a sketch from our bed-room
window, which will give you hereafter some notion of the scene, though
neither description nor drawing can convey any real idea of it. After
breakfast, papa and I and Thrower went up a tolerably steep hill to the
cottage of three old ladies, whose characters I had an opportunity of
studying while papa went on with the guide to the Great National or
State Turnpike Road, or "Pike Road" as they called it, which used to be
the connecting link between Washington and Southern Virginia. Though
much disused it is still well kept up. After going along it for some
distance, papa struck up to the top of a high hill, from whence he had a
magnificent view of the valleys on both sides of the ridge he was on,
and he was surprised to find what large tracts of cultivated ground were
visible, while to those below there seemed nothing but forest-covered
mountains, but between these he could see extensive glades, where every
patch was turned to account. This we afterwards saw from other parts of
the road.
While papa was taking his hasty walk, Thrower and I sat down in the
log-hut where these three old spinster sisters had lived all their
lives. They were quite characters, and cultivated their land entirely
with their own hands; though, when we asked their ages, two of them said
they were "in fifty," and one "in sixty;" they were most intelligent and
agreeable, and two looked very healthy; but the third had just had a
severe illness, and looked very ill. One was scraping the Indian corn
grains off the cob, using another cob to assist her in the work; we
watched the beautifully-productive plant, and admired its growth. Their
cottage or hut looked quite comfortable, and there were substantial log
stables and farm-buildings adjoining. When the weather permitted, they
got down the hill to Grafton to the Methodist meeting. There is no
Episcopal church there yet, excepting a Roman Catholic one, to which
they will not go, though they speak with thankfulness of the kindness
they have received from the priest.
They said their father used to tell them to read their Bible, do their
duty, and learn their way to heaven, and this they wished to do. They
were honest, straightforward good women, and _ladies_ in their minds,
though great curiosities to look at.