travelling so much that I have had no time for writing till to-night. I
must now, therefore, endeavour to resume the thread of my narrative,
though it is a little perplexing to do so after going over so much
ground as we have done lately in a short space of time.
We left Montreal early in the afternoon of the 27th, in company with Mr.
and Mrs. Bailey. He is one of the managers of the Grand Trunk Railway,
and came with us as far as Quebec, as a sort of guard of honour or
escort, papa having been specially commended to the care of the
_employés_ on this line. Both he and his wife are English. We crossed
the St. Lawrence in a steam-ferry to join the railway, and as long as
it was light we had a most delightful journey through a highly
cultivated country, covered with small farms, which came in quick
succession on both sides of the road. These farms are all the property
of French Canadians, and on each one there is a wooden dwelling-house,
with barns and out-houses attached to it, and the land runs down from
the front of the tenement to the railroad. There is no hedge to be seen
anywhere, and these long strips of fields looked very like allotment
lands in England, though on a larger scale. These proprietors have been
possessors of the soil from the time of the first settlement of the
French in Canada, and the farms have suffered from the subdivision of
property consequent on the French law of succession. They are so close
together that, when seen at a distance, the houses look like a
continuous line of street as far as the eye can reach, but we soon lost
sight of them in the obscurity occasioned by forests and the approach of
night. We passed many log huts, which, though very rude, do not seem
uncomfortable dwellings.
We saw little of the country as we approached Quebec, and were conscious
only of crossing the Chaudière river and of going along its banks for
some way, and afterwards along those of the St. Lawrence, till we
reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec. Here we got into a steamer to cross
the river, and from the steamer we had a grand view of the citadel and
town of Quebec, the tin spires shining jointly with the moon and the
comet; for we beg to say we do not require telescopes of high power, as
we see by the papers you do in England, to detect the latter luminary,
which really does look here almost as if it added to the light of the
night. Papa and I differ greatly as to the length of its tail. I say it
looks two yards long, but papa says it is difficult to tell this, but
that it is really about a degree and a half in length, or about six
diameters of the moon. The nucleus is larger and brighter than any star
in the Great Bear, and these are all bright here to a degree of which
you can form no idea. The planets look as large as fourpenny-pieces.
Papa has made me reduce them to this estimate, as I originally said as
large as sixpences; but he questions altogether my appreciation of the
size of the heavenly bodies, which do all seem wonderfully large to my
eyes.
On reaching the north side of the river, on which Quebec stands, we got
into an omnibus and drove up streets of a most tremendous ascent; it was
really quite alarming, as the pavement was in the most dreadful state,
and the omnibus, which was very rickety, was crammed with passengers.
Next morning we got up very early, and papa went out before breakfast to
inquire for the letters which we expected to receive from England, but
which had not yet arrived.
After an early breakfast we went in an open carriage to the Falls of
Montmorency, and I think I never had a more lovely drive. We passed
through several most prosperous-looking villages, and between farm
houses so closely adjoining each other as to give the appearance of a
long suburb to the city. At Beauport, about half-way between Quebec and
Montmorency, there is a splendid Roman Catholic church, which would do
credit to any country. The inhabitants here and at Quebec generally are
entirely French Canadians, and the driver here, as at Montreal, was
quite in the Coharé[4] style for intelligence and respectable
appearance. The falls of Montmorency are a little way off the road, and
the approach to the top of the fall down a flight of wooden stairs is
very easy. The river here descends in one great fall of 250 feet, and as
the river is 60 feet wide, the proportion between the height and the
breadth of the fall seems nearly perfect. It falls almost into the St.
Lawrence, as it tumbles over the very bank of the latter river, and the
view up and down the glorious St. Lawrence is here very beautiful. We
were elevated so far above the bottom of the chasm that the spray
apparently rose up only a short way, but it really does rise upwards of
150 feet, and in winter it freezes and forms a cone of ice exceeding 100
feet in height, which is said to present a most wonderful appearance.
Returning to Quebec we had a splendid view of the town. The fortress on
Cape Diamond seemed to jut out into the river, along the banks of which,
and rising to a great height above it, the town lay in all its glory.
The tops of the houses and the spires of the churches are covered with
tin, and from the dryness of the atmosphere it looks as fresh and
polished as if just put up. The sun was shining splendidly, and the
effect was almost dazzling. This and the richness of the intervening
country produced an impression which it would be difficult to efface
from the memory. The citadel, I should think, is hardly as high as the
castles of Edinburgh or Stirling, but in this country everything (even
to the heavenly bodies!!!) is on such a scale that it is not easy to
draw comparisons. The guide book, however, says that the rock rises 350
feet perpendicularly from the river, so that by looking at some of your
books of reference, you may find out which is the highest. The approach
is from the town behind, by a zig-zag road, and the fortifications seem
very formidable and considerable, though papa says greatly inferior to
Gibraltar, or to Malta, which it more strongly resembles as a work of
art.
Mr. Baily procured us an order for admission, so that we went to the
highest point, and the view up and down the river was truly magnificent.
A little below the town it is divided by an island of considerable size,
and as the river takes a bend here, it is rather difficult to make out
its exact course. The town is situated at the junction of the St.
Lawrence and the St. Charles, and as the latter forms a large bay or
estuary at the confluence, the whole has a very lake-like appearance.
We left the citadel at the gate opposite the one at which we entered,
and getting out upon the plains of Abraham, saw the monument erected on
the spot where Wolfe fell; close to it is an old well from which water
was brought to him to relieve his thirst after he had received his
mortal wound. Another monument is erected within the citadel, in what
is called the Governor's Garden. This is raised to the joint memories of
Wolfe and the French general, Montcalm, who was also mortally wounded in
the same action. From the plains of Abraham there is a beautiful view up
the river, and here, as on the other side of the town, the country at a
distance is studded with farm houses. In a circuit we made of two or
three miles in the vicinity of the town, we passed a number of really
splendid villas belonging to English residents, but with this exception
all seemed much more French than English, excepting that in _la vieille
France_ we never saw such order, cleanliness, and comfort, nor could
these be well surpassed in any country.
The small farmers here live entirely upon the produce of their farms;
they knit their own stockings, and weave their own grey coarse cloth. We
looked into several of their houses, and the extreme cleanliness of
every little corner of their dwellings was wonderful. The children seem
very healthy and robust-looking. The whole population talk French. The
crosses by the roadside proclaim them to be Roman Catholics, and the
extensive convents in the town tend doubtless to the promotion of the
temporal comforts of the poorer inhabitants. The principal church was
richly decorated with gilding up to the roof, and the gold, from the
dryness of the climate, was as bright as if newly laid on.
The extreme clearness of the air of Canada contributed, no doubt,
greatly to the beauty of everything we saw, though we found the cold
that accompanied it rather sharper than we liked. Mrs. Baily told me
that it is a curious sight to see the market in the winter, everything
being sold in a frozen state. The vegetables are dug up in the beginning
of winter, and are kept in cellars and from thence brought to market. A
month's consumption can be bought at a time, without the provisions
spoiling, as all remains frozen till it is cooked. The sheep and pigs
are seen standing, as if alive, but in a thoroughly frozen state. The
winter lasts from November till April. Sleighing is the universal and
only mode of travelling. The sleighs, which are very gay, are covered
with bells, and the travellers in them are usually clothed in expensive
furs. Pic-nics are carried on in the winter, to arrange which committees
are formed, each member inviting his friends till the parties often
number 100. They then hire a large room for dancing, and the guests
dress themselves in their ball dresses, and then envelope themselves in
their furs, and start at six in the evening for their ball, frequently
driving in their sleighs for several miles by moonlight to the place of
rendezvous. Open sleighs are almost always used for evening parties, and
apparently without any risk, although the evening dress is put on before
starting. There is great danger without care of being frost-bitten
during a Canadian winter, but it must be a very gay and pretty sight to
see sleighs everywhere, and all seem to enjoy the winter much, though
the cold is very intense.
We left Quebec early in the afternoon of the 28th, having called at the
post-office on our way to the train, and got our English letters. We now
passed during the day what we missed seeing the night before, on our
approach to Quebec. In crossing the Chaudière we could see the place
where this large river plunges over a perpendicular rock 130 feet high,
and the river being here very broad, the falls must be very fine, but
though we passed close above them, we could only distinguish the
difference of level between the top and the bottom, and see the cloud of
spray rising above the whole. The road till night-fall passed chiefly
through forest lands. The stations were good, though sometimes very
small, and at one of the smallest the station-master was the son of an
English clergyman.
At Richmond we parted company with the Bailys and got on to Island
Pond, where we slept at a large and most comfortable hotel. From
Richmond the road passes through a very pretty country, but its beauties
were lost upon us, as the night was very dark and there was no moon.
This also caused us to miss seeing the beauties of Island Pond on our
arrival there, but we were fully repaid by the sight which greeted our
eyes in the morning, when we looked out of our window. The Americans
certainly have grand notions of things, this Island Pond being a lake of
considerable dimensions studded with beautiful islands, and surrounded
on all sides by finely wooded hills, up which the heavy mist rose half
way, presenting the appearance we have so often seen in Switzerland, of
hills apparently rising out of a frozen ocean. The mist too, covering
the surface of the water, gave it a snow-like look, and altogether the
sight was very lovely. The road from this to Gorham was most
interesting, being down the course of the Androscoggan river through a
very wide valley, with high hills on both sides.
We left the train at the Alpine House at Gorham, to take a peep at the
White Mountains. We were kept waiting some little time at Gorham, while
the wheels of the _buggy_, that was to take us to the foot of Mount
Washington, were being examined. This vehicle was a sort of
double-bodied pony chair, of a very rickety description, the front seat
being contrived to turn over, so as to make more room for those at the
back to get in and out, the consequence was that it was always disposed,
even with papa's weight upon it, to turn over, and throw him upon the
horses' tails. Thrower and I sat behind, and papa and the driver in the
front, and I held on tightly by the back, which had the double advantage
of keeping me in, and of preventing his tumbling out. We had two capital
horses, and were driven for eight miles by the side of a mountain
torrent called by the unromantic name of the Peabody River. The woods
through which we passed were extremely pretty, and the torrent was our
companion throughout the drive. The road was of the roughest possible
description, over large boulders and up and down hills. The only wonder
was, that we were not tossed out of our carriage and into the torrent.
The leaves were beginning to turn, and some of the foliage was extremely
beautiful, particularly that of the moosewood, the large leaf of which
turns to a rich mulberry colour. We picked several of them to dry.
On reaching the Glen House, we found ourselves in front of a very large
hotel, standing in an amphitheatre of mountains. These are called by
the names of the presidents, Washington, Monroe, Adams, Jefferson, and
Madison. Washington is 6500 feet high, and seven others, which form a
continuous line of peaks, are higher than Ben Nevis. Although snow has
fallen this year, they seem free from snow just now, but they all have a
white appearance from the greyish stone of which they are formed, and
hence the name of the White Mountains. We went a short way up the ascent
to Mount Washington, and judging from this beginning, the road up the
mountain must be very beautiful. For two-thirds of the height they are
covered with splendid forest trees. When, at this season, the leaves are
changing in places to a deep crimson, the effect is very fine. The upper
part of these mountains seems to consist of barren rocks. We returned
and dined at the Alpine House. Both papa and I were seriously frightened
in our walks, especially at the Glen House, by encountering three
savage-looking bears. Luckily before we had shouted for help, we
discovered they were chained, but the first being exactly in a path we
were trying to walk along, really alarmed us.
We left Gorham for Portland at about four o'clock. The road the greater
part of the way is perfectly beautiful. It continued along the course
of the Androscoggan, with the White Mountains on one side, and with a
range, which to our eyes appeared quite as high, on the other. When we
left the river, the road was diversified by passing several large lakes,
one of which, called Bryant's Pond, resembled Island Pond in beauty.
_October 1st._--We got up betimes yesterday to see Portland, which it
was too late to do to any purpose on the evening of our arrival. Papa
delivered his letter to Mr. Miller, the agent here of the Grand Trunk
Railway, and he accompanied us on the heights, from which we were able
to look down upon the town and its noble harbour--the finest in the
United States. As it is here that the Leviathan is destined to come if
she ever does cross the Atlantic, they have, at a great expense, made a
wharf to receive her. The harbour is entirely land-locked and studded
with islands. The day was very fine, but not so clear as the day before,
or we should have seen the White Mountains, which are clearly visible
from this, although sixty miles distant in a right line. The city is
very beautiful, and, like all the New England towns, most clean and well
conditioned. Each street is embellished by avenues of elm trees of a
larger size than we have yet seen in America, with the exception of
those in the park of Boston.
We had here an opportunity of witnessing a very pretty sight, which was
the exercising of the Fire Companies, of which there are nine in this
town. Each Company had an engine as clean and bright as if it had just
come out of the maker's hands, and the firemen attached to them were
dressed in uniforms, each of a different colour. Long ropes were
fastened to these engines, by which the men drew them along. To each
engine there was also attached a brigade of men, wearing helmets, and
fire-proof dresses. They seemed altogether a fine body of men. We did
not wait to see the result of the trial, as to which engine could pump
furthest, which, with a reward of $100 to be given to the successful
engine, was the object of their practising. These Fire Companies seem to
be a great "Institution" everywhere in the United States, the troop at
New York having figured greatly in the Cable rejoicings. The companies
of different towns are in the habit of paying visits to each other, when
great fêtes take place, and much good-fellowship is shown. Fires are
very frequent in the great towns, but the means of extinguishing them
must be great in proportion, judging from what we have seen here. These
companies are said to be very well organised, and as they act as a
police also, very little pilfering takes place. Mr. Miller afterwards
took us to a part of the suburbs to show us some very pretty villas,
with gardens more cared for than any we have yet seen.
We left Portland in the afternoon. There are two railways from Portland
to Boston, and we selected the lower or sea-coast road. The country was
not very pretty, the shore being flat, but as we approached the seaports
of Portsmouth, Newburyport, and Salem, the views improved, especially in
the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, which stands on a neck of land jutting
far into the sea. There was a great deal of hay standing on meadows
which were flooded by the sea water; to protect the stacks, they were
built upon platforms supported by stone pillars, which had a curious
effect. The crops seemed very abundant, for the stacks were large and
close together and spread over a wide area. The quality of this salted
hay is said to be good, and the animals like it very much.
We got to Boston late last night, and to-day papa paid a long visit to
Judge Curtis, and we went afterwards on a railway, drawn by horses, to
see the famous Harvard University, in the town of Cambridge, which lies
about four miles to the west of Boston. When Mr. Jared Sparkes, the
late president, was in England, papa, at Mr. Morgan's request, gave him
letters to Cambridge, and upon the strength of this we called on him and
were most graciously received by Mrs. Sparkes, who entertained us till
Mr. Sparkes returned from Boston. He is a very pleasing and intelligent
man; before parting they gave us letters to Professor Silliman, of the
sister University of Yale, at New Haven. We met here too Mr. and Mrs.
Stevens, who accompanied us back to Boston, and loaded us with
introductions to the same place.
The town of Cambridge occupies a good deal of ground, for the so-called
streets are avenues of beautiful trees, with villas interspersed between
them. In an open space in the centre of the town, there is a most
magnificent tree, called the Washington Elm, noted, not only for its
size, but for its being historically connected with Washington. There is
a large library belonging to the college; and the college is in every
way very flourishing; but as we mean to return here again, we did not
think it worth while now to see it in detail.[5]
_October 2nd._--Papa went last night to a meeting, which is held every
night for prayer, at the Young Men's Christian Association, and was
extremely pleased with what he saw and heard. He was there for half an
hour before the prayers began. These lasted from nine till ten. Papa was
placed in the seat of honour, in a chair beside the President, and was
asked by him to address the meeting; but he got out of it by saying that
he came to listen and not to speak, and added only a few words on the
great interest with which these revivals in America were looked upon in
England. He was very much interested with the whole of the proceedings,
which were conducted with extreme moderation and right feeling.
To-day we made an early start, and at first went over the ground which
we travelled when we left Boston for Niagara; but instead of leaving the
Connecticut river at Springfield, as we did on that occasion, we
followed its course to Hartford, and finally came on to New Haven, from
which place I am now writing.
We arrived at two o'clock, and, after getting some food, called on
Professor Silliman, who took us over the University, and showed us the
museum, where there are some wonderful foot-prints on slabs of rock,
which have been found in this country. There is also here one of the
largest meteoric stones that is known. In the library there are many
books which were given to it by Bishop Berkeley, whose memory seems as
much respected here as it is at Newport.
_October 3rd._--Professor Silliman called on us this morning at ten
o'clock, and brought with him Mr. Sheffield, an influential person in
this neighbourhood, and a great patron of the University. As Mr.
Sheffield was an Episcopalian, he took us to his church, where we heard
a most striking sermon, and afterwards received the Communion. The
number of communicants was very large. We are very much struck at seeing
how well Sunday is observed in America. There are about thirty churches
in New Haven, and they are all, we are told, well filled. These churches
are of various denominations; but there seems a total want of anything
like a parochial system.
Papa went afterwards to the College chapel, or rather church, where the
young men attached to the University were assembled in the body of the
building. Papa was in the gallery, which is appropriated to the
Professors and their families. There are no less than forty-one
Professors at Yale, including those of theology, law, and medicine,
which are all studied here.
The sciences take greatly the lead over the classics. When we remarked
to Professor Silliman how great the proportion of scientific Professors
seemed to be, he said the practical education which was given in this
country, rendered this more necessary than in England, where men have
more time and leisure for literary pursuits. This is no doubt the case,
and in this country the devotion of every one's time and talents to
money-making is much to be regretted, for it is the non-existence of a
highly educated class that tends to keep down the general tone of
society here, by not affording any standard to look up to. It is curious
what a depressing effect is caused in our minds by the equality we see
every where around us; it is very similar to what we lately felt when on
the shores of their vast lakes,--tideless, and therefore lifeless, when
compared to the sea with its ever-varying heights. If I may carry this
idea further, I might say there is another point of resemblance between
the physical and moral features of the country, inasmuch as when the
waters of these lakes of theirs are stirred up and agitated by storms,
they are both more noisy and more dangerous than those of the real
ocean.
New Haven is considered to be the most beautiful town in America, and it
is marvellously beautiful. The elm is a very fine tree on this
continent. It is of a peculiar kind, rising to a great height before
any branches shoot out, thus producing large overhanging branches like a
candelabrum. It is common in all American towns, but this is called by
pre-eminence the City of Elms. There are broad avenues in every
direction, the branches of the trees meeting across and forming shady
walks on the hottest day.
The shops, relatively to the size of the town, are as good as any we
have seen in the larger cities. Next to the booksellers' shops, or book
stores as they call them, the most striking, if they are not the most
striking of all, are the chemists' shops, which abound here as
elsewhere. They are of enormous size, and are kept in perfect order,
though the marvel is lessened when the variety of their contents is
considered, this being of a very miscellaneous description, chiefly
perfumery, at all events not restricted to drugs. Hat stores and boot
stores are very numerous, and labels of "Misses' Hats" and "Gents' Pants
fixed to patterns," are put up in the windows.